IT was a saying amongst the Ancients , that thrice happy and blest was that Kingdome , when Old Men boresway , and ruled the State ; and Young Men travailed abroad : The first by long experience prudently to execute Judgement ; and the later by sight and knowledge of forraine soyles and Lawes , growing more judicious ; might when come to Age and Preferment , the more facily , and dexteriously exhibite Justice at home . But what shall I say to these moderne and dissolute times ? when by the contrary meanes Travaile is slighted , Government abused , & insinuating homlings thrust in high Offices , incapable of them ; being pratling Parrots , and sounding Cymballs , who convert sound Judgement and Justice to their owne greedy respects , and selfe mercinary ends ; turning their chiefest felicity to avaritious ambition and vaine-glory , and their sweetest fortunes to their belly and their backe . O miserable and effeminate age ! when vertue by most men is despised , and neglected , and sensuall vice every where exalted : Nay , Ruffian Pandors , by hopefull youth and prodigall Gallants are now Cloathed , Coatched , and richly rewarded ; whilst best merits and highest deserts of rarest Spirits , are neither looked to , set by , nor regarded . And for approbation , and examples sake , of their valorous designes , let them thinke upon latter passages , not worthy to be thought upon , and they will finde this future Caveat to stand needfull , Hoec olim meminisse juvabit . So likewise now , every Capri-cullion from Caesar to the Pascorell , can crowd and chaw from his warbling waspishnesse , this stinging censure of absurd untruth , that Travellers and Poets may lye , and lye by authority , which they themselves performe at home without leave .

By which traditionall concession , Concerning sinistrous censures . I being absolue in the first , and borne to the Muses , as to the World , a mungrill to both ; may have a lawfull ( unlawfull ) liberty assigned . Any marvaile ? if men in this kind be so injuriously censured , when the very Gospell it selfe , by per●idious Atheists , Formalists , Sophisters , Romish-Rabines , Nullifidians , and Schismaticall Sectaries , is quartered , mangled , and rejected ; such be the Satanicall opinions of this Hell-borne age ; whose confused conceites , blasphemies , incredulities , and imaginary devisions , have shamefully stained the better part of this now best World . Nay , good and godly Kings , so pricked at , and wounded by the viperous murmurings of miscreant villaines , as though their Royall and just lives were the meere inordinate paternes of all impiety , and lewdnes . Sith therefore the sacred Scriptures , the gods of the earth , Ecclesiasticke columes ; yea , the name and fame of the most righteous alive , be thus diversly taxed , and vituperously calumniated ; can prevention in me escape the lawlesse horrour of this impoysoned fury ? No , I have had already the assault , and newly prepared patience proofe to receive more ; wrought by the piercing hammer of nineteene winters , as many Summers dear bought toyle . Let venome-thundring-Criticks contumeliously carpe , infernall fire-brand Cerberus barke , and the Hell-prepared off scourings of true religion gnashing grudge I have a heart can smile at their backe-biting Malice , a judgement to discerne such wormish waspes , and if present , the weight of understanding truth , to confound their blinde absurdities with reason . As for Chambercomplements , whose vast insides , like to the vaults of wasting Strombolo , are become thred-beare , having their outsides onely adorned with rich ornaments . Such serving Cyphers , cypher childish censures , And shallowscal-patch'd pates , have fore-bald tonsures , Yet touch a C. flat in his face he 'le start As though a Dame had grac'd him with a — Whose wrings , winkes , whose curious smiles , and words , And scraping feete , lost blandement affords : Whence pride and lust become two servile Mineons , To top his thoughts with false and fond opinions : Then happy they who least frequent a Court , Nor in the fields of flattery love to sport . To such bellowing Caves , winded with the borrowed rags of patch'd up Comedies , clouted complements , stolne phrases , and lip-licked labours , of Lampe-living spirits , to such hollow Tombes , I say a tush for their kindnesse , & I justly hold it a manifest idolatry to honour or do homage to any of them : And this much for the misconstruous lackjudgment of emulating Clouds , No Courtiers . And as concerning the impostrate quagmires of this abortive Age , wherein so many Simonaicall Matchevilians , mercinary parasites , and arch-betraying Sicophants live , vindicating themselves excessively upon the advantage of time , I insufficient I , to dive into such bottomlesse businesses , bequeath them onely to their owne ●●pining Consciences , just trials , and ignominious rewards . To satisfie the World in my behalfe , as touching my Travells , I sincerely protest , that neither Ambition , too much Curiosity , nor any reputation I ever sought , The reaso● why the Author begunne his Travells . from the bubling breath of breathlesse man ( whose defective censure inclineth , as instigation or partiality moveth his weake and variable opinion ) did expose me to such long perigrinations and dangerous adventures past . But the proceeding whereof , thousands conjecture the cause , as many the manner ; tenne thousand thousands the effect : The condition reserved I partly forbeare to penetrate in that undeserued Dalida wrong ; and reconciled times pleading desistance , moderate discretion inserteth silent patience .

But by your leave let me enter into consideration of the intractable passage of my male-contents past , and these importunate Designes thereupon ensuing : And thus ( have I ) in the late dayes of my younger yeeres beene grievously afflicted ? Ah ; yea ; and with more then disastrous injuries over-clowded , O heavy under-prop'd wrongs . But hath not the like accident befalne to man before ? yea ; but never the like condition of murther : Nay , but then preponderate seriously this consequent ? may not the scelerate hands of foure blood-shedding Wolves , facily devoure , and shake a peeces one silly stragling Lambe ? yea , and most certaine , that unnawares , the harmelesse innocent ; unexpecting evill , may suddenly bee surprized by the ambushment of life-betraying foes . All this I acknowledge ; but whereupon grew this thy voluntary wandring , and unconstrained exile ? I answere , that being young , and within minority , in that occurrent time , I was not onely inveigled , but by seducements inforced , even by the greatest powers , A Dialogue betweene the Author and Himselfe ▪ then living in my Country , to submit my selfe to arbitrement , satisfaction and reconciliation . But afterward growing in yeares , and understanding better the nature of such unallowable redresses , and the hainousnesse of the offence ; I choosed rather ( voti causa ) to seclude my selfe from my soyle , and exclude my relenting sorrowes , to be entertained with strangers ; than to have a quotidian occular inspection , in any obvious object of disastrous misfortune : or perhaps any vindicable action , might from an unsetled ranckour bee conceived . O! a plaine demonstrate cause , and good resolution ; for true it is , that the flying from evill , is a flying to grace ; and a godly patience is a victorious freedome , and an undaunted conquerour over all wrongs ; Vengeance is mine ( saith the Lord ) and I will repay it . To this I answere ; mine eyes have seene the revenging hand of God upon mine adversaries , and these night-gaping foes are trampled under foot ; while I from strength to strength , doe safely goe through the fiery tryall of calamities . My consolation arising from the eternall dictum , quos amo castigo , whom I love I correct : And to say my part in my soules experience ,

And as one of the Ancients speaketh well , Adversa corporis , animae remedio sunt , aegritudo carnem vulnerat , sed mentem curat : The Affliction of the body , is wholesome Physicke for the soule : it woundeth the flesh , but cureth the spirit . Certain it is , that the Lord in chastising his owne doth often move the wicked Reprobates of his wrath , to bee the instruments of his correcting hand . I could involume as large a Discourse upon this heart-grieving project , as upon the late intollerable tortures I sustained by the treacherous Governour , and bloody Inquisition of Malaga in Spaine ; being in quality , though not in quantity alike . But constantly containing my selfe within the precinct of patience , referring such eminences to the Creator , which in a part belongeth not to the Creature ; I may sigh to this World , as sorrowfull Aeneas to his Dido .

But now to proceed in my punctuall purpose , the nature of man , by an inward inclination , is alwayes inquisitive of forraigne Newes ; yea , and much more affecteth the sight and knowledge of strange , and unfrequented Kingdomes , such is the instinct of his naturall affection . Navigation hath often united the bodies of Realmes together ; but Travaile hath done much more ; for first to the Actor it giveth the impression of understanding , experience , patience , and an infinite treasure of unexperimable vertues : secondly , it unfoldeth to the World the government of States , the authority and disposition of Kings and Princes ; the secrets , manners , customes , and religions of all Nations and People . And lastly , bringeth satisfaction to the home-dwelling man , of these things he would have seene , and could not attempt . Travell hath beene in more request amongst the Ancients , than it is now with us in the latter Age. Philosophers , Poets , Historiographers , and learned Divines , how they have perigrinated to know the life of States , and the fashions of farre Countries , would be an endlesse taske for me briefely to relate . Many ( I confesse ) long to see the remotest Region of the Earth , but dare not ●ndertake the dangers of sight , the chargeable expences of a Tributary journey , the hard indurance of flint stones for a soft Feather-bed , the extremities of thirst , nor the parching heate of the Sun , hunger in the belly , nor the moist distilling dew to bee a humide Coverlet to their tender skinne , with innummerable other insuing miseries . But Ixion-like , mistaking Iuno , would by a meere imagination , run out the sleeping course of an endlesse peregrination . For my part , what I have reaped is by a deer bought knowledge , as it were , a small contentment , in a never contenting subject , a bitter pleasant taste , of a sweet-seasoned sowre , and all in all , what I found , was more then ordinary rejoycing , in an extraordinary sorrow of delights .

But now to leave the contemplation of attempts , to come to the reall adventure : After two voyages I made to the Orcadian , and Zetlandian Isles ; in the stripling age of mine adolescency , and there after surveighing all Germany , Bohemia , Helvetia , and the Low Countries from end to end ; I visited Paris , where I remai●ed ten months . Divers contestations have I had about the equality of London and Paris , in quantity and quality : But having a more serious subject in hand than this paralell , A comparison betweene London and Paris . I conclude thus , the infinite shipping , and commodious navigation of London ( besides their universall commerse ) is more of value , than the better halfe of Paris : compare you the quantity , for there is the quality of the argument . Paris I confesse is populous , a masse of poore People , for lacques and pages , a nest of rogues , a tumultuous place , a noctuall denne of Theeves , and a confused multitude : where contrariwise , London is adorned with many grave , prudent , and provident Senators , civill , well-taught , and courteous people , and absolutely , the best governed City on the whole face of the earth ; as well by night , as by day , and nothing inferiour in quantity to it .

FRom Paris ( in the the yeare of God 1609. March 7 ) I set forward , being brought three Leagues on my way , with a number of my Country gallants , young Aiton , young Hutonhall , and specially Monsieur Hay of Smith-field , now Esquire of his Majesties body , with divers other Gentlemen : where when my kindest thankes had over-clouded their courtesies , and farewell bid on both sides , I bequeathed my proceedings to God , my body to turmoyling paines ; my hand to the burthen , and my feete to the hard bruising way . And as unwilling to make relation of my passing through France , the Savoyean , & Ligurian Alpes , sith it is manifested unto many in this Iland , both by sight and report , I would shunne , so farre as possible I can , all prolixity of knowne , and therefore unnecessary discourse .

Although I have a large reason , having cross'd the Alpes at sixe severall parts , onely in the one place , I meane to comment upon Italy in generall . Upon the 40. day after my departure from Paris , I arrived at Rome , of the which I will memorize some rarest things , and so proceed . This City of Rome now extant , is not that old Rome , which Romulus founded that tempered the morter with the blood of his brother Rhemus , who disdainefully leaped over the new wals ; and was once the mistris of the Universe for her Triumphs and Antiquities , but is now onely the Carkasse of the other , of which she retaineth nothing but her ruines ; and the cause of them , her sinnes .

Rome which Romulus first founded , contained these two mountaines , The Antiquity of Rome . Capitolino , and Palatino , with the valley lying betweene both Hills ; having three Ports : the first was called Trigonio , because of the triangle it made neere to the foote of mount Palatin : The second Pandonio , because it was alwayes open , and for the commodity of the passage , it was called the free Port : The third was called Carmentale of Carmenta , the mother of Euander who dwelt there : It was also named scelorata , or wicked gate in regard of 300. Sabines put cruelly to death issuing thereat .

Now after the Monarchy of the Romanes had attained to the full height ; the Gothes , a base and unknowne people , displaying their banner against this glorious and imperiall City , in the end razed , and subverted their Pallaces , equalizing the walles with the ground . After the which detriment , and overthrow , the late subdued Romans , recovering their ruinous habitation , were inforced to withdraw the situation of the Towne , a little more downe-ward , in Campus Martius , close by the bankes of Tibris ; and transported the stones of these ransacked buildings to re-edifie their new dwelling places .

And yet Rome was once the famous City of Europe , the mother and nurse of worthy Senators , the miracle of Nations , the Epitome of the world , the Kingdome of Mars , and the seven headed soveraigne of many Provinces . The seven hills whereon she stood , Romes seven Hills . and now partly somewhere stands : for they are all contained within the vast bounds of the old walls , which as yet environeth the towne , are these , Palatino , Capitolina , Viminale , Aventino , Esquiline , Coelio , and Quiraneno . Which certainly doe demonstrate the whoore of Babylon , sitting on the Beast with seven Heads , and cannot be understood but of Rome , being builded on these seven Hills : having a correspondence to seven Kings who reigned there ; and also acknowledging seven severall Rulers , Kings , Consuls , Decemviri , Tribunes , Dictators , Emperours , and now Popes . During the felicity of the Romans , this City was never taken , but by the Gauls , which being recovered they made a Law that Priests ( being otherwise exempted ) should goe to Warre , if ever the Gauls came againe ; with whom they fought not for dominion , but for their owne preservation : But since it became pontificall , it hath beene made a prey to all Barbarous Nations , and never was besieged by any that tooke it not .

The River Tyber which runneth through her bosome , is not unlike to Iordan and Tagus ; yet not so bigge as either of them , being all three of a troubled and muddy colour : But it is exceeding outragious , & often menaceth to drowne the whole Mansions , as grieving to grace the Walls of such a wicked and imperious a place : who having lost her former preheminent glory , and domination over the world would not alledge and ascribe a second prerogative over the soules of men , the Heavens , the Hells , the Silver-coyned Purgatory , the deposing and imposing of Kings : the former was done by the undaunted courage of the invincible sword , the latter by presumption , Avarice , insinuation , and absurd lies .

I remember of a pretty observation of Saint Katharine , Sain● Katherines observation . of Siena , who being stricken in devotion , went to venerate Rome , accompanyed with a goodly traine ; and having visited all the Monuments , supposed Holy places , and Religious relicks there , for the space of five dayes : At last she came to take view of the Popes Palace , where having spent a whole day , strictly remarking the gesture and carriage of the Popes servants : She saw nothi●g but abhomination , prophannation , and irreligious living , and worser than in Rome it selfe : Whereupon suddenly , the next day she departed for Siena , being an hundreth miles distant ; pittifully bewayling her journey , and the miserable livers she saw in Rome . Protesting alwayes after for sixteene yeares time till her death , that the Wind never came from the East , Meaning of Sodomy . blowing Westward to Siena , but shee thought the filthinesse of the Popes Pallace , and the beastlinesse of Rome , ever stunke in her nose .

This River of Tyber especially made muster of his extravagant disgorgements , at that time when Pope Clement the eighth was Crowned Duke of Ferrara , auno 1589. and that same night hee returned to Rome , Tyber waxed so proud of his arrivall , that impetuously inunding his bankes to make him welcome , hee overwhelmed the better halfe of the Town : And if it had not been for the infinite charges of the Pope , and desperate toyle of the people , the violent force of his rage swelling courtesie , had absolutely subverted and carryed away the rest of the City . The like inundation was never seene of Tyber , as after this Coronation , portending , that as the first Gomorah was destroyed by fire , so this second Sodome should be sommerssed by water . The beginning of this River springeth from the Ombrian and Aquilean hills , joyning with the Alpes Apenine : whose course is fourescore and sixteene miles ; dis-burthening it selfe in the Sea Mediterrene at Ostia twelve miles from Rome . The mouth and haven whereof have beene long dammed up , to stoppe the passage of hostile and Moorish incursions , least the City should be surprised on a suddaine . By which slavish Ecclesiasticke feare , Rome is shamefully defrauded of Shipping and forraigne trafficke : and if it were not for the Clergy , which are the two parts of the Inhabitants ( besides the Iews , and Curtezans , which are the greatest implements of the other third part ) it would become the most miserable Towne in Italy .

And notwithstanding that for the space of 12 miles round about Rome , there are neither Cornes nor Wines , nor Village , Plantage , or Cultinage , save onely playne and pastoragious fields ; intermingled at all quarters with ancient Watch-towers , being an old policy of the Romans , to prevent any sudden surprise of their enemies insomuch that at my first view of Rome , I imagined the people were all famished , or in danger of famishing .

But by your leave , being once entred the City , I found abundance of all things necessary for life , at so easie and gentle a rate , that never a Town in Europe hitherto could shew mee the like . The common Wine that is drunke in Rome is Vin Romanisco , the better sort Albano , Muscatello , Sheranino , but as for Lachrimae Christi , the teares of Christ , I drew so hard at that same weeping Wine , till I found my purse begun to weepe also ; and if time had not prevented the sweetnesse of such teares , I had been left for all the last miserable mourner . As for the place where the Pilgrimes finde one Dinner , called the Popes Table , The Pilgrim● dinner at the Popes table . it is thus : there is a certaine low roome at Saint Peters palace , and without the gate , where every day at our nine of the clocke , there meet 21 pilgrimes ; 14 from the Trinitie , one having a bullet for all , and seven from Saint Peters Penitentialls : where being received , the seven Jesuite Pilgrims get the upper place , and sit alone , yet all of them alike served , each of them having four dishes of meat , besides bread and abundance of wine . The dinner done , their fragments are wrapt up in cleane paper , which they carry with them , and so departing , they , or like company come no more there . They are daily served with a very venerable Prelate , and a few other serviceable Priests , but for the Popes presence with them , there is no such matter . That liberty being spoyld by a drunken Dutch-man about 60 yeares agoe , who in presence of the Pope gave up againe his good Cheare and strong Wines , with a freer good will then they were allowed him , whereat the Pope grew angry , notwithstanding the drunken fellow cryed through his belching throate , Thankes Holy Father , Deere Holy Father , God blesse your Holinesse .