And to restraine my selfe in this part especially to Italy , where the Roman Religion doth principally flourish ; the communicating Divine Honour to Saints and Angells , by building Churches , erecting Altars , commending Prayers , addressing vowes unto them ; by worshipping their Images , going in Pilgrimage to their Reliques , attributing all kind of miracles both to the one and other ; hath wrought this generall effect in those parts that men haue more affiance and assume vnto them a greater conceipt of comfort in the patronage of the Creatures and servants of God , than of God himselfe the Prince and Creatour . And touching the blessed Virgin the case is cleere , that howsoeuer their doctrine in Schooles be otherwise , yet in all kind of outward actions , the Honour which they doe her , is double for the most part unto that which they doe our Sauiour : where one doth professe himselfe a Devoto or peculiar servant of our Lord ; whole townes sometimes , as Siena by name , are the Devoti of our Lady .

The stateliest Churches are hers lightly , and in Churches hers the fairest Altars ; where one prayeth before the Crucifix , two before her Image , where one voweth to Christ ten vow unto her ; and not so much to her selfe , as to some peculiar Image , which for some select vertue or grace together with greater power of operation of miracles they chiefly serue , as the glorious Lady of Loretto , the devout Lady of Rome , the miraculous Lady of Provenzano , the Annunciata of Florence ; whose Churches are so stuffed with vowed presents and memories , that they are faine to hang their Cloysters also & Church-yards with them . Then as their vowes are , such are their pilgrimages . And to nourish this humour ; for one miracle reported to be wrought by the Crucifix , not so few perhaps as an hundred are voiced upon those other Images . Yea their Devils in exorcisme are also taught ( for who can thinke otherwise ? ) to endure the conjuring of them by the name of God and the Trinitie without trouble or motion ; but at the naming of our Lady to tosse and torment ; as feeling now a new force of an unresistable power . Neither will I omit this no lesse certaine , though lesse apparent ; where one fasts on Friday , which they compt our Lords day in devotion to him ; many fast the Saturday ; which there they compt our Ladies day ; and in devotion to her . In all which the people do but follow their guides , who as in the admeasuring of devotions by tale on beads , they string up ten salutations of our Lady to one of our Lords prayers , so themselues also in their Sermons make their entrance with an Ave Marie , yea and the solemnest divine honour which I see in those parts , and which being well used were to bee highly renowmed and recommended to the imitation of all worthy Christians ; namely , that thrice a day , at sun-rise , at noone , and sun-set , upon the ringing of a bell , all men in what place soever they bee , whether , Field , Street , or Market , kneele downe and send up their united devotions to the high Court of the world : This honour is by them entended chiefly to our Lady , and the devotion advised is the Aue Marie , and the Bell which rings to it hath also that name . And lastly their chiefe preachers doe teach in Pulpit , that the Church doth very well whatsoever is found in Scripture spoken of Christ the Sonne of God to apply it to our Lady also , being the daughter of God : that it is the opinion of a learned man and not contrary to the Catholike Faith , that though ADAM had not sinned yet Christ should haue beene incarnate to doe our Ladie honour ; that all the Angells and Saincts of Heaven are vassals unto them both , and cast downe their crownes at the feete of both , and present mens supplications kneeling unto both ; that our bond of dutie and thankfulnesse must needes bee exceeding to her ; seeing it may bee said after a sort , that Man is more advanced in her than in in Christ himselfe , seeing in Christ the nature of Man is exalted onely , in our Lady , the very person also , which Christ hath not ; Finally , that nothing passeth in Heaven without her expresse consent , that the stile of that Court is Placet Domin● : yea they are taught that matters of Iustice come more properly from him , and expeditions of Grace from her ; and that some rare holy men haue seene in vision , that certaine whom Christ would haue condemned , yet in regard they were her servants by her intercession haue beene absolved ; so that no man need marveil if this doctrine and practise haue diverted the principall streames of affiance and loue , from him , who had the onely right unto them ; and turned them upon those , unto whom neither so great honour is due , nor so undue honour can be acceptable .

Their Liturgies being not understood by the people , are not able to hold them with any spirituall content . For supply whereof , they confine them to the chamming of their beads in the mean season : which being so unsavorie a food as it is ( and they vse it accordingly ) when they are wearie of it , they entertaine the rest of the time with talke and mirth , ( which the Priests also themselves at their leasure forbeare not , ) not forgetting yet to shew devotion at certaine pauses by Spirits ; wherin their outward gestures are decent , reverent , significant . Howbeit I suppose in generall I may truely say , that the Romane Catholikes are the most irreverent and wandring at Divine Seruice that a man shall see any where , ( the Iewes onely excepted ; who are in that kind in all places incredibly intollerable : ) though on the other side that honour is to bee yielded the Italian Nation , that he is naturally not undevout were his devotion well guided and duly cherished , and not starved and quenched in the darke myst of a language , where he neither understandeth what is said to him , nor yet what himselfe saith .

The best part of their exercises of Religion are their Sermons : wherein much good matter both of faith and pietie is eloquently delivered , by men surely of wonderfull zeale and spirit , if their interiour fervour be correspondent to their outward vehemence . Howbeit they are sometime mingled with so palpable vanitie , that besides other pouerties , as forced allegories and unnaturall interpretations , wherein they are frequent , euen those Legends of Saints and tales at which children with us would smile ; are there solemnly hystorized in their Cathedrall Pulpits . But certainly what religiousness soever is in the peoples minds may wholy or chiefly be atributed to their Sermons , whereto the better disposed people do very diligently resort : their Seruice being no other than as a lampe put out , which bringing no light at all to the understanding , can neither bring any due warmth to the affection , the one being inseparable from the other : and were it not that their musicke , perfumes and rich sights , did hold the outward sences , with their naturall delight ; surely it could not be but eyther abandoned for the fruitlesness or only upon feare and constraint frequented .

This one thing I cannot but highly commend in that sort and order ; they spare nothing that either Lost can performe in Enriching , or skill in Adorning the Temples of God , or to set out his service with the greatest pompe and magnificencie that can be devised , wherein notwithstanding it were to bee wished that some discreeter men had bin the contrivers and Maisters of their Ceremonies , to haue affected in them more statelinesse , reverence and devotion , and to haue avoyded that Frierly busie basenesse and childishnesse which is now in them praedominant . And although I am not ignorant that many men well reputed haue embraced the thriftie opinion of that Disciple , who thought all to be wasted that was bestowed on Christ in that sort , and that it were much better imployed upon him in the poore , yet with an eye perhaps that themselues would be his quarter Almoners : notwithstanding I must confesse it could never sincke into my heart , that in proportion of reason , the allowance for the furnishing out of the seruice of God should be measured by the skant and strict rule of meere necessitie , ( a proportion so lowe , that nature to other most bountifull , in matters of necessitie hath not failed no not the most unnoble Creatures in the world ; ) and that for our selues no measure of heaping , but the most we can get ; no rule of expence , but to the vtmost pomp we list ; or that God himselfe had enriched this lower part of the World with such wonderfull varietie of things beautifull and glorious , that they might serue only to the pampering up of mortall man in his pride ; and that the service of the high Creatour Lord and Giver , ( the outward glorie of whose higher palace may appeare by the very lamps which we see so farre off burning so gloriously in it , ) onely the simpler , baser , cheaper , lesse noble , lesse beautifull , lesse glorious things should be employed : especially seeing euen as in Princes Courts , so in the seruice of God also , this outward state and glorie being well disposed , doth engender , quicken , encrease and nourish , the inward reuerence and respectfull devotion which is due vnto so soveraigne Maiestie and power , which those whom the use thereof cannot perswade so , would easily by the want of it be forced to confesse . For which cause I must craue to bee excused by them herein , if in zeale of the Honour of the common Lord of all , I choose rather to commend the vertue of an enemie , than to flatter the vice or imbecilitie of a friend .

But to returne to the Church of Rome , and to come to the consideration of their Penance and Confession , out of which so great good is promised to the World , and the want whereof is so much upbraided to their opposites : I must confesse I brought with me this perswasion and expectation , that surely in reason and very course of nature , this must needs bee a very great restraint to wickednesse , a great meanes to bring men to integritie and perfection ; when a man shall as it were dayly survey his actions and affections , censure with griefe , confesse with shame , cure by counsell , expiat with punishment , extinguish with firme intent neuer to returne to the like againe , whatsoever hath defiled or stayned his soule . Neither doubt I but it had this fruict in the first institution and hath also with many at this day ; yea and might haue beene perhaps better restored in Reformed Churches to his primitiue sinceritie , than utterly abolished , as in most places it is . Notwithstanding , having diligently searched into the menaging thereof in those parts , I find that as all things wherof humane imbecillitie hath the Custodie and government , in time ( decaying by unsensible degrees ) fall away from their first perfection and puritie , and gather much soyle and drosse in using ; so this as much as any thing .

For this poinct of their Religion , which in outward shew carieth a face of severitie and discipline , is become of all other most remisse and pleasant , and of greatest content even to the dissolutest minds the matter beeing growne with the common sort to this open reckoning ; what need wee refraine so fearefully from sinne , God having provided so ready a meanes to bee rid of it when wee list again ? Yea , and the worser sort will say , when we haue sinned wee must confesse ; and when wee haue confessed wee must sin again , that wee may also confesse again , and withall make worke for new Indulgences and Iubilies : making accompt of Confession as professed drunkards of Vomiting : Yea , I haue knowne of those that carie a shew of very devout persons , who by their owne report , to excuse their acquaintance in matters criminall , haue wittingly perjured themselues in judgement , only presuming of this present and easie remedy of Confession : and other of more than ordinary note among them , who when their time of confessing was at hand , would then venture on those actions which before they trembled at ; as presuming to surfeit by reason of neighbourhood with the Physician : which Physician also himselfe is perhaps more often infected by the noysome diseases which his patient discloseth , than the patient any way bettered by the counsell which the Physician giueth ; though this should bee the very principall vertue of that act . But this must bee graunted to be the fault of the people ▪ yet a generall fault it is , and currant with small controulment .

Howbeit neither are the Priests or Pope to be more excused perhaps in their parts . The Priests will tell the penitents that God is mercifull ; that what sinne soever a man committeth , so long as hee continueth in the Church , and is not a Lutheran , there is good remedy for him . And for Penance , it consisteth ordinarily , but in Ave-Maries and Pater-Nosters , with some easie almes to them that are able , and some little fasting to such as are willing ; yea I haue knowne , when the penance for horrible and often blasphemie , besides much other leudnesse hath been no other than the bare saying of their ●eads thrice over ; a matter of some houres muttering , and which in Italy they dispatch also as they go in the streets , or rid businesse at home ; making no other of it , that as it is , two lippes and one fingers worke . But were the penance which the Priests enjoyne never so hard and sharp , the holy Fathers plenarie pardon sweeps all away at a blow . Now of these they haue graunted ( and this man especially ) so huge a number , that I ween there are few Churches of note in Italy , which haue not purchased or procured a perpetuall plenarie Indulgence ; by vertue whereof , whosoever at certein set yearly dayes , being confest , and hauing communicated , ( o● as in some pardons having intent onely to confesse and communicate in time convenient ) powres out his devotions before some altar in that Church , and extends his hands in almes to the behoofe thereof , ( which clause in all former graunts was expressed , but is now left out for avoyding of scandall , but still understood and practised accordingly ) hath forthwith free remission of all sinne and punishment . Yea if the worst fall out , that a man bee so negligen● as to drop into Purgatorie , at the time of his decease , ( which but by very supine negligence can hardly happen : ) Yet few Cities are there wherein there are not one or two Altars priviledged Pro de functis , where for every Masse said a soule is delivered : and so great multitude of Artizans must needs make their ware cheape . I will not here warble long upon this untunable harsh string , neither will mention perhaps the fourtieth part of what I haue seene , much lesse will I now rake up old rustie stuffe out of the dead dust and darkenesse wherein time and shame hath suffered it to rest : Onely for examples sake , and for verifying of what I haue said , I will set downe some of that which is in use at this day , which is printed on their Church-doores and proclaimed in their Pulpits .

In the Eremitane at Padova , their Preachers very solemnely publish a graunt of plenarie ▪ Indulgence from Baptisme to the last confession , with twentie eight thousand yeeres over for the time ensuing . The pardon of ALEXANDER the Sixt for thirtie thousand yeeres , to whosoever before the Altar of our Lady with Christ and her Mother , shall say a peculiar Ave , importing that our Lady was conceived without sinne , is Printed a new in Italy , and pictured in fairest sort : But these are for short times . At the Sepulchre of CHRIST in Venice , a stately representation , whereon is written , Hic situm est Corpus Domini nostri IESV CHRISTI , ( yet inferring no reall presence thereby , as I take it ) with verses annexed of Conditur hoc tumulo ; there is hanging in a printed table a prayer of St. AVSTINE , a very good one indeed , with Indulgence for fourescore and two thousand yeares , graunted from BONIFACR the eighth , and confirmed by BENEDICT the eleventh , to whosoever shall say it , and that for every day toties quoties ; which yet is somwhat worth , that in a few dayes a man may provide for a whole million of Worlds , if they did last no longer than this hath done ●ithertoo . In St. FRAVNCIS Church at Padova I heard a Reverend Father preach at large the holy historie of the divine pardon of SISA , Abomni culpâ & p●nâ , graunted by Christ in person at our Ladies suit vnto S. FRANCIS , extended to all such such as being confest , and having communicated should pray in St. FRANCIS Church there of Sancta Maria de gloria Angeli ; yet sending him for orders sake to his Vicar Pope HO●ORIVS that then was to passe it , with many other re-apparitions & delectable strange accidents of great solace and content to the pleasant minded beleeuers : Which Pardon is since in larged by SIXTVS QVARTVS and QVINTVS ( who both were Franciscans ) to all lay brethren & sisters that weare St. FRANCIS CORDON in what place soever . But to leaue these Antiquities , but not to enlarge in Moderne graunts ; but to restraine to one Pope of renowmed fresh memorie even GREGORIE the thirteenth and some few of his Graces , he hath granted to the Carmine at Siena for every Masse said there at the Altar of the Crucifix , the deliverie of a soule out of Purgatorie whose they list , the like to many other . To the Carmine at Padova more liberally to euery one that shall say seven Aves and 7. Pater-Nosters before one of their Altars on the anniver●ar●e Wednesday in Easter weeke , or else kisse the ground before the Altar of the blessed Sacrament with the usuall prayers for exaltation of the Church extirpation of Hesie , and vnitie of Christian Princes , both plenarie Indulgence for himselfe and the deliverie of what friends soule out of Purgatorie he pleaseth . To the Fraternitie of the Altar of the Conception of our Lady in the Duomo or Cathedrall Church at Padova confessing and communicating at their entrie to that societie full remission of their sinnes at the houre of their death , naming Iesus with their mouth , ( or if they cannot ) with their Heart . The like ordinarilie graunted to other Fraternities . To euery Priest so often as hee ●hall say , fiue printed lines , importing that hee will off●r up the precious body of our Saviour , so many fi●●ie yeeres pardon . Yet will I mention one also of the graunts of this Pope , among other innumerable , namely to the Friers and lay Fraternitie of both Sexes of the Carmine at Siena ; for every time they are present at their solemne Processions , plenarie Indulgenee for all sinnes past , and Seven yeeres and seven Quadragenas or fortie dayes over in store for the time to come , and this for ever : with extent of like Grace to all other that with their presence shall honour those Processions , but to last for them no longer than the yeere of Iubilee . Now besides these and infinite other of this style , there are Indulgences more free , and lesse restrained eyther for time place or dutie to gain them : By graunt from Pope IOHN the XX.th every inclining of the Head at the naming of IESVS gets XX. yeeres pardon : a matter in Italy no not this day unpractised . And to grace that Ceremonie the more , I haue heard sundry of their renowmed Divines teach in Pulpit ; that CHRIST himselfe on the Crosse bowed his head on the right side , to reverence his own Name which was written over it . All Altars of Station ( which are in very great number ) haue their perpetuall Indulgences indifferent for all times . Sundry Crosses engraven on the pauements of their Churches , haue Indulgence annexed for every time they are kist , which is so often by the devouter sex , that the hard marble is worne with it . The third and fourth Masse ( as they say ) of every Priest , is a preservatiue or ransome of his Parents from Purgatorie , yea though they should be song without such intention : which causeth many warie men that would bee sure from Purgatorie , to make some one or other of their sonnes a Priest always .

The saying of their Beads over with a meadall or other trinket of the Popes Benediction appendant , gets plenarie Indulgence , and delivers what soule out of Purgatorie one pleaseth . And it is lawfull for one to substitute any other medall in place of those blessed ones , which shall haue like force with them . A clause of consideration , and which serveth at this day more turnes than one , and theirs especially which passe over Sea with double daunger . All which with many other like helpes considered ; I must confesse for my part I am farre from their understanding , who blaze so much the severitie of the Romane Religion ; unlesse wee accompt that a streit inclosure , which hath a multitude of posternes continually open , to let false people in and out , day and night at their pleasure : and rather incline to a contrary conceipt , that praesupposing the truth of their doctrine as it is practised ; for a man that were desirous to saue his Soule at his dying day and yet deny his Body no wicked pleasure in his life time , no such Church as that of Rome , no such Countrey as Italy .

For I must speake also somewhat of their Life and Conversation , but as briefly as may bee ; being a theam I take very small delight to handle , neither being of any great profit to bee known . And yet is it knowne sufficiently to all men , and too much to some , who not content to spott themselues with all Italian impurities , proceed on to empoyson their country also at their return thither : that wee need not marveil if those rarer Villanies which our Auncestours never dreamed of , do now grow frequent ; and such men whom they would haue swept out of the streets of their Cities , as the noysome disgrace and dishonour of them , and confined to a Dungeon or other desolate habitation , do vaunt themselues now , and with no meane applause for the onely gallants and worthy spirits of the World .

But to touch so much of their liues in Italy as shall be necessarie for this purpose , and rather indeed the causes than the effects themselues : it is not to be merveiled , if the glorie of their Religion consisting most in outward shewes , and the exquisitenesse in an infinity of intricate dumb Ceremonies ; if their devotions being not seazoned with understanding requisite , but prized more by tale than by weight of zeale ; if as the vertue of their Sacraments , so their acts of Pietie , being placed more in the very massie materialitie of the outward worke , than in the puritie of the heart from which they proceed : It is not , I say , to bee merveiled though the fruicts also of conversation bee like unto those roots ; rather such as may yield some reasonable outward obedience to Laws than approue the inward integritie and sinceritie of that fountain from which they issue .

For although in their civill cariage one towards another they haue especiall good vertues well worth the imitating , being a people for the most part of a graue and stayed behaviour , very respectiue and courteous , not curious or medling in other mens matters , besides that auncient frugalitie in dyet and all things not durable , which to their great ease and benefit they still retaine ; and there be also among them as in all other places , some men of excellent and rare perfection : yet can it not bee dissembled ; but that generally , the whole Countrey is straungely overflowne and overborne with wickedness , with filthinesse of speech , with beastlinesse of actions , both Governours and Subjects , both Priests and Friers , each striving as it were with other in an impudentnesse therein ; even so farre forth , that what elswhere would not bee tolerated , is there in high honour ; what in some other places even a loose person would be ashamed to confesse , there Priests and Friers refraine not openly to practise . Yea if any man forbeare the like , they find it very straunge and hold integritie for little better than seelinesse or abjectnesse . I cannot here forget the saying of an Italian Gentleman of very good qualitie but in faction Spanish at my first entry into Italy ; namely , that the Italians were excellent men but for three faults they had : In their lusts they were unnaturall ; there malice was unappeasable ; and they deceived the whole world : whereto as for rare Corollaries in those faculties hee might haue truely added , they spend more vpon other than upon themselues ; they blaspheme oftner than sweare , and murther more than they revile or sclaunder .

Notwithstanding , this testimonie I yield not onely willingly but gladly to them , ( for what joy could it be , what griefe ought it not bee , to the heart of any man , to see men fall irrecoverably from the loue and lawes of the Creatour ? ) that at one time of the yeere , namely , at Lent , they are much reformed ; no such blaspheming nor dyrtie speaking as before ; their vanities of all sorts layd reasonably aside ; their pleasures abandoned ; their apparell , their dyet , and all things else composed to austeritie and state of penitence : they haue dayly then their preaching with collections of almes , whereto all men resort : and to judge of them by the outward shew , they seeme generally to haue very great remorse of their wickednesse . In so much that I must confesse I seemed vnto my selfe in Italy to haue best learned the right use of Lent ; there first to haue discerned the great fruict of it , and the reason for which those Sages at first did institute it . Neither can I easily accord to the fancies of such , as because we ought at all times to lead a life worthy of our profession , think it therfore superstitious to haue one time wherin to exact or expect it more than other : but rather do thus conceiue that seeing the corruption of times and wickednesse of mans nature is now so exorbitant that an hard matter it is to hold the ordnarie sort of men at all times within the lists of pietie , justice and sobrietie ; it is fit therefore there should bee one time at least in the yeere and that of reasosonable continuance , wherein the season it selfe , the use of the world and practise of all men , ( for even the Iewes and Turkes haue their Lents although different , ) the commandment of Superiours , the provision of fit meanes to assist therein , and in sum the very outward face and expectation as were of all things , should constrein men how wicked and recklesse soever , for that time at least to recall themselues to some more severe cogitations and courses ; lest sinne hauing no such bridle to checke it at any time , should at length wax head-strong and unconquerable in them : and that on the other side being thus necessarily inured for a while , though but to make a bare shew of walking in the paths of vertue , they might afterwards perhaps more sincerely and willingly persist , ( as custome makes hard things pleasant , ) or at leastwise returne more readily againe unto them some other time . And verily I haue had sundry times this cogitation in Italy , that in so great loosenesse of life and decay of discipline in those parts , it was the especiall great mercy and grace of God that the severitie of Lent should yet still be preserved , lest otherwise the flouds of sinne growing so strong and outragious , and hauing no where either bound or banke to restraine them might plunge that whole nation in such a gulfe of wickednesse , and bring them to that last extremitie , which should leaue them neither hope of better , nor place for worse . Yea and was so farre from thinking the institution of Lent superfluous , or the retaining of it unprofitable ; that I rather enclined to like the custome of the Greeke Church , who besides the great Lent haue three other Lents also at solemne times in the yeere ; though those other neither so long , neither yet of so strict and generall observation . Two things are farther to bee added in the honour of Italy . Their Nunneries seeme for the most part greatly reformed of that they haue bene , and of that they still are in Fraunce and other places ; where their loosenesse of gouernment and often scandalls ensuing , do breed them a reputation cleane contrarie to their profession . And the reason why the Monasteries and Convents of Friers are not reformed there also , is a feare , they say the Pope hath , that over great severitie would cause a great number to disfrier themselues , and to fly to Geneva in hope of more libertie , which he esteemeth an inconvenience more to bee shunned than the former mischiefe . An other thing very memorable and imitable in Italy , is the exceeding good provision of Hospitalls and houses of Pietie , for Old persons enfeebled , for poore folke maymed or diseased , for gentilitie impoverished , for travailers distressed , for lewd women converted , for children abandoned ; which the devotion of former times hath founded and enriched , and enriched , and this present age doth very faithfully and discreetly governe . And if it were not for those Houses , in the number whereof , goodlinesse , great revenews , and good order , I suppose Italie exceeds any one Country in the world ; although it be incomparably also the richest Nation at this day of all the West , by reason of their long peace and their neighbours long warrs : yet considering that the wealth there is so ill digested , and so vnequally divided in the body thereof , ( the infinite and ever sucking vaines of their taxes and imposts carying all the bloud to the higher parts , and leaving the lower ready to faint , to starue and wither , ) that it may be truely sayd , the rich men of Italy are the richest , and the poore the poorest things that any one Country can yield againe , both which in well policed estate were to be avoided : were it not I say for those Houses alone of Pietie , there would be more miserie to be seene in those parts , ( which all that notwithstanding is still great and excessiue ) than perhaps , in the poorest peaceable Country of Christendome whatsoever . Besides these Hospitalls , they haue also their Montipij , for free or more easie loane to the poore ; seeing Italy as all other places is infected with Vsurie .