England, Wales, Scotland and Ireland described and abridged with ye historic relation of things worthy memory from a farr larger voulume done by Iohn Speed.

THE GENERALL OF GREAT BRITAINE . CHAPTER I.

THE State of euery Kingdome well managed by prudent gouernment , seemes to me to represent a Humane Body , guided by the soueraigntie of the Reasonable Soule : the Country and Land it selfe representing the one , the Actions and State-affaires the other . Sith therefore the excellencies of the whole are but vnperfectly laid open , where either of these Parts is defectiue , our intendment is to take a view as well of the outward Body and Lineaments of the now-flourishing British Monarchy ( the Ilands ) Kingdomes and Prouinces thereof in actuall possession , ( for with others , no lesse iustly claimed in the Continent , we meddle not ) which shall be the content of our first or Chorographicall Tome , containing the foure first Bookes of this our Theater : as also of its successiue gouernment and vitall actions of State , which shall be our second or Historicall Tome , containing the fiue last Bookes . And here first we will ( by example of the best Anatomists ) propose to the view the whole Body and Monarchy intire ( as farre as conueniently we could comprise it ) and after will dissect and lay open the particular Members , Veynes , and Ioynts , ( I meane the Shires , Riuers , Cities , and Townes ) with such things as shall occurre most worthy our regard , and most behouefull for our vse .

(3) It is by experience found to lie included from the degree fiftie , and thirtie scruples of Latitude , and for Longitude extended from the 13. degree , and 20. minutes , vnto the 22. and 50. minutes , according to the obseruation of Mercator . It hath Britaine , Normandy , and other parts of France vpon the South , the Lower Germany , Denmarke , and Norway vpon the East ; the Isles of Orkney and the Deucaledonian Sea , vpon the North ; the Hebrides vpon the West , and from it all other Ilands and Ilets , which doe scatteredly inuiron it , and shelter themselues ( as it were ) vnder the shadow of Great Albion ( another name of this famous Iland ) are also accounted Britannish , and are therefore here described altogether .

(4) Britaine thus seated in the Ocean hath her prayses , not onely in the present sense , and vse of her commodities , but also in those honorable Eulogies , which the learnedst of Antiquaries hath collected out of the noblest Authors , that he scarce seemeth to haue left any gleanings : neither will 〈◊〉 transplant them out of his flourishing Gardens , but as necessitie compels , sith nothing 〈…〉 or other●●● be●●● said .

(5) That Britaine therefore is the Seas High Admirall , is famously knowne : and the Fortunate Island supposed by some , as Robert of Anesbury doth shew : whose ayre is more temperate ( saith Caesar ) then France ; whose Soile bringeth forth all graine in abundance , saith Tacitus ; whose Seas produce orient Pearle , saith Suetonius ; whose Fields are the seat of a Summer Queene , saith Orpheus ; her wildest parts free from wilde beasts , saith the ancient Pa●●gyricke , and her chiefe Citie worthily named Augusta , as saith Ammianus : So as we may truely say with the royall Psalmist , Our lines are fallen in pleasant places , yea we haue a faire inheritance . Which whatsoeuer by the goodnesse of God , and industry of man it is now , yet our English Poet hath truely described vnto vs the first face thereof , thus ; The Land which warre-like Britaines now possesse And therein haue their mightie Empire raisde , In ancient times was saluage Wildernesse , Vnpeopled , vnmanur'd , vnprou'd , vnpraisde .

(6) And albeit the Ocean doth at this present thrust it selfe betweene Doue , and Callis , diuiding them with a deepe and vast entrenchment ; so that Britaine thereby is of a supposed 〈◊〉 made an Iland : yet diuers haue stifly held , that once it was ioyned by an arme of land to the Continent of Gallia . To which opinion Spencer farther alluding , thus closeth his Stanza .

Ne was it Iland then , ne was it paisde Amid the Ocean waues , ne was it sought Of Merchants farre , for profits thererem praisde , But was all desolate , and of some thought By Sea to haue beene from the Celticke Mainland brought .

〈…〉 as a matter meerly coniecturall ( because it is not plaine that there 〈…〉 Ilands nor hils before Noahs floud ) I leaue at large : Virgill surely ( of all Poets the most learned ) when describing the Shield which Vulcan forged ( in Virgils braine ) for Aeneas , he cals the Morini ( people about Callis ) the outmost men , doth onely meane that they were Westward , the furthest Inhabitants vpon the Continent , signifying withall that Britaine as being an Iland , lay out of the world : but yet not out of the knowledge of men , for the Commodities thereof inuited the famous Greeke Colonies of Merchants , which dwelt at Massilia in France , to venture hither , as hath beene well obserued out of Strabo .

(7) And as Iulius Caesar was the first Romane which euer gaue an attempt to conquer it , so will we close its prayses with a late Epigram , concerning the outward face of the Isle , and the motiue of Caesars comming .

ALBIONIS vertex frondoso cri●e superbit . Arboreas frondes plurimas ales habet . Graminean Montes & ●undunt paseua p●●em ; Et carpunt , circum paseua , gramenoues : Sed LATII caruit potioribus Insula donis , Victori potior Gloria ni LATIO . Albions high tops her woody lockes farre shew , With quiers of chanting Birds these Woods resounding . Her Downes and Meadowes cladin verdant hew , Meadowes and Downes with flockes and heards abounding . Latium had greater Wealth , yet Caesar thought , To Brittish Glory , Latiums Wealth worth nought .

(8) The diuision of Britaine concerning the gouernment and Territories thereof ; at such time 〈◊〉 Ceaser here arriued , doth not sufficiently appeare . Caesar himselfe makes so sparing mention therein , that we haue little cause to beleeue Florus , where he makes Lauie say , that after Caesar had slaine 〈…〉 multitude of Britaines , he subdued the residue of the I le , but rather with exquisite Hora●e , that he did not at all touch them , as the word intactus doth in him purport .

(9) Kings they were , and therefore that diuision which was here in Caesars time , was into Kingdomes ; the old names of whole Nations , as also the knowledge of their seuerall abodes , hidden vnder the rabbish of so many ages , haue of late with infinite labours and exquisite iudgement , beene probably restored and abounded ; yet that no mans expectation and desire be too much frustrated , reason wils that we briefly set forth such diuisions of the Land , as many repute not ancient onely , but authenticke .

( 10 ) Our seeming ancient Historians begin it at Brute , who to euery of his three sonnes gaue a part , called presently after their names ; as Loegria to L●●rme his eldest sonne : Cambria to Camber his second sonne ; and Albama to Albanist his third sonne : And doubtlesse , if there had beene more Nations of fame in this Iland , Brute should haue had more sonnes fathered on him : which conceit some ascribe to Monmouth , holding that before him it was neuer so diuided .

( 11 ) Ptolemie naming Britaine the Great and the Lesse , hath beene by some mistaken , as so diuiding this Iland into two parts ; but his proportion and distance from the Aequator , compared with his Geographicall description will euince , that he calleth this our Iland Great Britaine , and Ireland Britaine the Lesse .

( 12 ) Howbeit some later doe make indeed the South and more Champion to be called Great Britaine , and the North more Mountainous , Britaine the Lesse ; whose Inhabitants anciently were distinguished into the Maiatae , and Caledonij , and now by the Scots are into Heghlandmen and Lawlandmen . But that Northerne clime being more piercing for the Romans constitutions , and lesse profitable or fruitfull , they set their bounds not farre from Edenburgh , and altogether neglected the other parts more Northward .

( 13 ) This neerer part of Britaine they then diuided into two parts ; for the more Southerne tract , together with Wales , Dio termeth the Higher , and that more Northward the Lower , as by the seate of their Legions doth appeare ; for the second Legion Augusta ( which kept at Caerleon in South-Wales ) and the twentieth called Victrix ( which remained at Chester ) he placeth in the Higher Britaine : but the sixt Legion surnamed also Victrix , resident at Yorke , serued ( as he writeth ) in the Lower Britain ; which diuision , as seemeth , was made by Seuerus the Emperour , who hauing vanquished Albinus , Generall of the Britaines , and reduced their State vnder his obedience , diuided the gouernment thereof into two Prouinces , and placed two Prefects ouer the same .

( 14 ) After this againe the Romanes did apportion Britaine into three parts , whose limits our great Antiquary assigneth by the ancient Archiepiscopall Seates , grounding his coniecture on the saying of Pope Lucius , who affirmes that the Ecclesiasticall Iurisdictions of the Christians , accorded with the precincts of the Romane Magistrates , & that their Archbishops had their Sees in those Cities wherein their Presidents abode : so that the ancient Seates of the three Archbishops here , being London in the East , Caerleon in the West , and Yorke in the North ; Londons Diocesse ( as seemeth ) made Britaine prima ; Caerleon , Britaine secunda ; and Yorke , Maxima Caesariensis .

( 15 ) But in the next age , when the power of their Presidents began to grow ouer-great , they againe diuided Britaine into fiue parts , adding the three former Valentia and Flauia Caesarie●sis : the first of which two seemeth to haue beene the Northerly part of Maxima Casarie●sis , recouered from the Picts and Scots by Theodosius the Generall , vnder Valence the Emperour , and in honour of him , named Valentia : and Flauia may be coniectured to receiue the name from Flauius the Emperour ( sonne of Theodosius ) for that we reade not of the name Britaine Flauia , before his time .

( 16 ) So these fiue partitions had their limits assigned after this manner : Britaine prima contained those coasts that lay betwixt Thamesis , the Seuerne , and the British Sea : Britaine secunda extended from Seuerne vnto the Irish Seas , containing the Country that we now call Wales : Flauia Caesariensis , was that which lay betwixt the Riuers Humber and Tyne : and Valentia from the said Riuer , and Picts wall reached vnto the Rampire neere Edenburgh in Scotland , the farthest part that the Romanes possessed when this diuision was in vse . For the seuerall people inhabiting all those parts , with their ancient Names & Borders ( whether designed by the Romans , or the old Britaines ) together with our moderne Names and Shires , answerable to each of them : we will referre you to the Tables thereof elsewhere .

( 17 ) This whole Prouince of Britaine , as in our History shall appeare , was highly esteemed of the Emperours themselues , assuming as a glorious surname Britanicus : comming thither in person ouer those dangerous and scarce knowne Seas ; here marrying , liuing , and dying ; enacting here Lawes for the whole Empire , & giuing to those Captaines that serued here , many Ensignes of great honor ; yea Claudius gaue Plantius ( the first Prefect of that Prouince ) the right hand , as he accompanyed him in his Triumph : and his owne Triumph of Britaine was set out with such magnificence , that the Prouinces brought in golden Crownes of great waight , the Gouernours commanded to attend , and the very Capt●ines permitted to be present at the same : A Nauall Coronet was fixed vpon apinnacle of his Pallace , Arches and Trophees were raysed in Rome , and himselfe on his aged knees mounted the staires into the Capitoll , supported by his two sonnes in Law : so great a ioy conceiued he in himselfe for the Conquest of some small portion of Britaine .

ENGLANDS GENERALL DESCRIPTION . CHAPTER II.

THE Saxons glory now neere to expire , by his appointment who holdeth both times and Kingdomes in his all ordering hand ; their owne Swords being the Instruments , and the Danes the maules that beat their beautifull Diadem into pieces ; the Normans , a stirring Nation , ( neyther expected , nor much feared ) vnder the leading of William their Duke , and encouragement of the Romane Bishop ( an vsuall promoter here of broken titles ) made hither sodainly into England , who in one onely battell , with the title of his sword and slaughter or Herold , set the Emperiall Crowne thereof vpon his owne head : which no sooner was done , but the English went downe , and the Normans lording it , became Owners of those Cities which themselues neuer built ; possessed those Vineyards which they neuer planted ; dranke of those Wells which they neuer had digged ; and inhabitted those houses , filled with riches , for which they neuer had laboured : for they found it to be as the land whereupon the Lord set his eye , euen from the beginning to the end of the yeare : not onely drinking water of the raine of heauen , but hauing also riuers of waters and fountaines in her valleyes , and without all scarsitie , whose stones are yron , and out of whose mountaines is digged brasse . This made them more resolute at first to settle themselues in this fairest and fruitfullest part of the Iland ; the Conquerour vsing all policie both Martiall and Ciuill , to plant his posteritie here for euer . How he found the Land gouerned we shewed in the Heptarchy ; but his restlesse thoughts were not contented with conquering the Nation and their Land , vnlesse he also ouercame their very Customes , Lawes , and Language .

(2) Touching the distribution of the Kingdome , whereas other Kings before him made vse of it , chiefly for the good of the people , and better ministring of Iustice , he made vse of it , to know the wealth of his Subiects , and to enrich his Coffers : for he caused a description to be made of all England , how much land euery one of his Barons possessed , how many Knights fees , how many Plow . lands , how many in villenage , how many head of beasts , yea how much money euery man from the greatest , to the least did possesse , and what rents might be made of entry mans possession , the Booke of which inquisition ( yet in the Exchequer ) was called Domesday , for the generalitie of that Iudgement on all the Land : Whereunto we may adde his other distribution of this Land ( worse then any former ) when thrusting the English out of their possessions , he distributed their inheritances to his Souldiers ; yet so , that all should be held of the King , as of the onely true Lord and possessor .

(3) For the Lawes by which he meant to gouerne , he held one excellent rule and purpose , which was , that a People ought to be ruled by Lawes written and certaine : for otherwise new Iudges would still bring new Iudgements : and therefore he caused twelue to be chosen out of euery Countie , which should on their oath , without inclining one way or other , neither adding nor detracting , open vnto him all their ancient Lawes and Customes . By whose relation vnderstanding that three sorts of Lawes formerly were in the Land , Merchenlage , West Saxonlage , Danelage ; he had preferred these last , ( himselfe and people being anciently deriued from those Northerne people ) had not all the Barons bewayling to the King , how grieuous it was for a Land to be iudged by those Lawes which they vnderstood not , altered his resolute purpose : yet in bringing in the strange formes of Norman Processe , and pleading in the French tongue ( which continued till Edward the thirds time , ) that grieuance was but slenderly preuented . So likewise did he much alter the old Courts of Iustice , where these Lawes should be ministred : but whereas the ancient Kings of England , according to Moses his example , sate in person in the seate of Iustice , to right the greater affayres of their Subiects , as William La●bert sheweth in King Alfred , Edgar , Canutus , &c. and proues out of the Kings Oath , out of Bracton , Britaine , Saxon Lawes , &c. King William not onely continued this ; but besides erected some other Courts of Iustice , as the Exchequer , and certaine Courts and Sessions to be held foure times euery yeare : appointing both Iudges ( some to heare causes , others to whom appeales should be made , but none from them ) and also Prefects to looke to good orders . Those last Polydor calleth Iustices of Peace ; but their institution seemes to be farre later : and no lesse is his errour on the other side , in saying the Conquerour first instituted Sheriffes , and the tryall by twelue men , which were both ancienter .

(4) And because the Conquerour , for honour of Bishops , caused them to remoue from small obscure places to Cities of more renowne ; we haue therefore reserued to this last place that diuision of this Kingdome , which is according to Iurisdiction Episcopall . Formerly in the yeare of saluation , 636 Honorius the fift Archbishop of Canterbury , first diuided England into Parishes , which at this day are contained vnder their seuerall Dio●●sans , and these againe vnder their two Metropolitanes , ( Canterbury and Yorke ) in manner following .

CANTERBVRIE. Bishoprickes . Counties , Parishes . Canterbury . Kent . 257. Rochester . 98. London . Essex . 623. Middlesex . Hertford-shire part . Lincolne . Lincoln-shire . 1255. Leicester-shire . Huntington . Bedford-shire . Buckingham-shire . Hertford-shire part . Chichester . Hertford-shire . 250. Suffex . Winchester . Hant-shire . 362. Surrey . Wight Isle . Gernesey Isle . Iersey Isle . Salisbury . Wilt-shire . 248. Bark-shire . Exester . 〈◊〉 - shire . 604. Cornewall . Bath and Wells . Sommerset-shire . 388. Gloucester . Gloucester-shire . 267. Worcester . Worcester-shire . 241. Lichfield and Couentry . Warwicke-shire . 557. Warwicke-shire part . Stafford-shire . Derby-shire . Shrop-shire part . Hereford . Shrop-shire part . 313. Hereford-shire . Ely Cambridge-shire . 141. Ely Isle . Norwich . Norfolke . 1121. Suffolke . Oxford . Oxford-shire . 195. Peterborow . Northamton . 293. Rutland-shire . Bristow . Dorset-shire . 236. Glamorgan . Landaffe . Monmouth-shire . 177. Brecknock-shire . Radnor-shire . S. Dauid . Pembroke-shire . 308. Caermarden . Bangor . Caernaruon-shire . 107. Anglesey Isle . Merioneth-shire . Denbigh-shire . S. Asaph . Denbigh-shire part . 121. Flint shire part . YORKE . Yorke . Yorke-shire . 581. Nottingham-shire . Chester . Ches●●re . 256. Richmond-shire . Cumberland part . ●anca-shire . Flint part . Carlile . Cumberland part . 93. Westmorland Durham . Durham . 135. Northumberland . Sodor . Man Iland . 17. Totall Bishoprickes . 27. Parishes 9285.

(5) To speake nothing of these twentie-eight Flamins the Priests of Idolatry , and the three Arch-Flamins , whose seates were at London , Caerlion , and Yorke ; all of them conuerted by King Lucius into Christian Bishops Sees : let vs onely insist vpon the three last , by the same King appointed to be Metropolitanes ouer the rest ; among whom London is said to be chiefe : whose first Christian Arch-bishop was Thean , the builder of S. Peters Church in Cornehill for his Cathedrall , as by an ancient Table there lately hanging , was affirmed , and tradition to this day doth hold . Our British Historians doe bring a succession of fifteene Arch-bishops , to haue sate from his time vnto the comming of the Saxons , whose last was Vodius , slaine by King Vortiger , for reprehending his heathenish marriage with R●w●n , the Daugher of Hengist . At what time began the misery of the Land , and of holy Religion , both which they layd wast vnder their prophane feete : vntill Ethelbert of Kent , the first Christian Saxon King , aduanced Christainitie , & Augustine to the Arch-bishopricke of Canterbury , when London vnder Melitus became subiect to that See .

(6) At Caerlion vpon Vske , in the time of great Arthur , sate Dubritius , a man excellently learned , and of an holy conuersation : he had sate Bishop of Landaffe a long time , and with Germanus and Lupus , two French Bishops greatly impugned the Pelagian Heresie , infecting at that time the Iland very farre , whose fame and integritie was such , that he was made Arch-bishop of all Wales : but growne very old , he resigned the same vnto Dauia his Disciple , a man of greater birth , but greater austeritie of life , who by consent of King , Arthur , remoued his Arch-bishops See vnto Meneuia , a place very solitary and meete for meditation : the miracles of the man , ( which are said to be many ) changed both the name of the place into his owne , and robbed Caerlion of her Archiepiscopall seate : This See of S Dauids , ( as in an ancient Register belonging to that Church is recorded ) had seauen Bishops Suffraganes subiect vnto it which were Exceter , Bathe . He eford , Landaffe , Bangor , S. Asaph , and ●e●nes in Ireland : notwithstanding , eyther for want of Pall , carried into Britanny by Arch-bishop Sam●son , in a dangerous infection of sicknesse , either by pouertie or negligence , it lost that Iurisdiction , and in the dayes of King Henry the first , became subiect to the See of Canterbury .

(7) Yorke hath had better successe then eyther of the former , in retayning her originall honour , though much impaired in her circuit , challenging to haue beene some time Metropolitane ouer all the Bishops in Scotland : and although it was made equall in honour and power with Canterbury , by Pope Gregory , as Beda relateth ; and had twelue Suffragan Bishoprickes that owed obedience , onely foure now acknowledge Yorke their Metropolitane , but Canterbury the Superiour : for William the Conquerour thinking it dangerous to haue two in like authoritie , least the one should set on his Crowne , and the other strike it off , left Yorke to be a Primate , but Canterbury onely the Prin●●● of all England .

(8) The Lichfield was made an Archiepiscopall See by Pope Hadrian the first , at the suit of Offa , the great King of Mercia , is manifested by Mathew of Westminster , vnto whose Iurisdiction were assigned the Bishoprickes of Winchester , Hereford , Leicester , Sidnacester , Helm●am , and Dunwich , and whose first and last bishop was Aldwin . That Winchester also had intended an Archiepiscopall Pall , the same Author recordeth , when Henry Bloys , of the bloud royall , greatly contended with the Arch bishop of Canterbury for superioritie , vnder the pretence of being Cardinall de latere ; to him an Archiepiscopall Pall was sent , with power and authoritie ouer seauen Churches , but he dying before that the designe was done , the See of Winchester remained in subiection to Canterbury . And that ( long before ) the See of Dorchester by Oxford , had the Iurisdiction of an Arch-bishop , is apparant by those Prouinces that were vnder his Diocesse , which were Winchester , Oxford , Lincolne , Salisbury , B●estow , Wells , Lichfield , Chester , and Excester ; and the first Bishop of this great circuit , Berinu● , was called the Apostle and Bishop of the West - Saxons : which in his next successor was diuided into two parts , Winchester and Dorchester , and not long after into Lichfield , Sidnacester , and Legecester ; and lastly , the See remoued from Dorchester to Lincolne , as now it is And thus farre for the diuision of this Realme , both Politicke and Ecclesiasticke , as it hath stood and stands at this day .

(9) But the whole Ilands diuision , by most certaine Record was anciently made , when Iulius Agric●la drew a trench or fortification vpon that narrow space of ground betwixt Edenbrough Frith , and Dunbretton Bay , making the Southerne part a Prouince vnto the Romane Empire . Afterwards Hadrian the Emperour seeing perhaps the Prouince too spacious to be well gouerned without great expense , drew backe these limits almost fourescore miles shotter , euen to the mouth of the Riuer Tyne , whence he fortified with a wall of admirable worke vnto Carlile , which stood the Lands border , while it stood as a Romane Prouince : yet the conquering Saxons did spread againe ouer those bounds , and ( as seemeth ) enlarged their gouernment to that first Tract , as by this inscription in a Stone Crosse , standing vpon a Bridge ouer the water of Frith , appeareth .

I am a free March as Passengers may ken , To Scots , to Britaines , and to Englishmen .

( 10 ) But afterward William the Conquerour , and Malcolme King of Scotland , falling to an agreement for their limits , arreared a Crosse vpon Stanemore , where on the one side the portraiture and Armes of the King of England was sculptured , and of the King of Scots on the other ( a piece whereof is yet remaining there neere to the Spittle ) thence called the Rev-Crosse , there erected to be a Meare-stone to either Kingdome . His successors also abolished the two partitions in the West , whereby the Welsh became one Nation and Kingdome with the English It is also said that King Stephen to purchase friendship with the Scottish Nation , gaue vnto their King the Countie of Cumberland who with it held both Westmorland and Northumberland ; but as Newbrigensis writeth , he restored them to King Henry the second , wisely considering his great power and right to those parts .

KENT . CHAPTER III.

KENT , the first Prouince appearing in the South of this Kingdome , is bounded vpon the North with the famous Riuer Thamisis : on the East with the Germane Ocean : on the South with Sussex and the narrow Seas : and vpon the West and Sussex and Surrey . The length thereof extended from Langley in the West , vnto Ramsgate Eastward in the Isle of Thanet , is about 53. English miles . From Rother in the South , vnto the Isle of Graine Northward , the bredth is not much aboue 26. and the whole circumference about 160. miles .

(2) Informe it somewhat resembleth the head of a hammer or Battle-axe , and lyeth corner-wise into the Sea : by Strabo , Caesar , Diadorus , and Ptolemie , called Cantium , of Cant or Angle or Corner : either of Caine a British word , which signifieth Bushes or Woods , whereof that Countie in those former times was plentifully stored .

(3) The ayre , though not very cleere , because of the vapours arising from the Sea , and Riuer : that enuiron the same , is both wholesome and temperate , as seated neerest to the Equino●ticall , and the furthest from the North Pole , not touched with cold as the other parts of the Land are .

(4) The soile towards the East is vneuen , rising into little hils , the West more leuell and woody , in all places fruitfull , and in plentie equals any other of the Realme , yea , and in some things hath the best esteeme : as in Broad-clothes , Fruits , and feedings for Cattell . Onely Mines ( except Iron ) are wanting : all things else deliuered with a prodigall heart and liberall hand

(5) Sundry nauigable Riuers are in Kent , whereof Medwey , that diuideth the shire in the midst , i● chiefe ; in whose bosome securely rideth his Majesties Nauy Royall , the walls of the Land , and terrours of the Seas ; besides ten others of name and account , that open with twenty Creeks and Hauens for Ships arriuage into this Land , foure of them bearing the name of Cinque Po●t● , are places of great strength and priuiledges , which are Do●er Sandwich , Rumney , and Winchelsey : among which Douer with the Castle is accounted by Mathew Paris the Monke , the locke and key to the whole Realme of England ; and by Iohn Rosse and Lidgate is said to be built by Iulius Caesar , fatall onely for the death of King Stephen , and surrender of King Iohn therein hapning .

(6) A conceit is , that Goodwin Sands were sunke for the sinnes of himselfe and his sonnes . Shelues indeed that dangerously lye on the North east of this Countie , and are much feared of all Nauigators . These formerly had beene firme ground , but by a sodaine inundation of the Sea were swallowed vp , as at the same time a great part of Flanders and the Low Countries were : and the like also at the same time befell in Scotland , as Hector Boetius their Historiographer writeth A like accident hapned in the yeare 1586 the fourth day of August , in this Countie , at Mottingham , a Towne eight miles from London , sodainly the ground began to sinke , and three great Elmes thereon growing , were carryed so deepe into the bowels of the earth , that no part of 〈◊〉 could any more be seene , the hole left in compasse fourescore yards about , and a line of fiftie fadomes plummed into it doth finde no bottome .

(7) The Kentish people in Caesars time were accounted the ciuillest among the Britaines : and as yet esteeme themselues the freest Sub●●cts of the English , not conquered , but compounded with by the Normans : and herein glory , that their King and Commons of all the Saxons were the first Christians , conuerted in Anno 596. yea , and long before that time also Kent receiued the faith : for it is recorded that Lucius the first Christian British King in this Iland , built a Church to the name and seruice of Christ , within the Castle of Douer , endowing it with the Tolle of the same Hauen .

(8) This Countie is enriched with two Cities and Bishops Sees , strengthened with 27. Castles , graced with 8. of his Majesties most Princely Houses , traded with 24. Market-Townes , and beautified with many stately and gorgeous buildings The chiefest Citie thereof , the Metropolitan and Arch bishops See , is Canterbury , built ( as our British Historians report ) 900. yeares before the birth of Christ ; by Henry of Huntington , called Caier Kent , wherein ( as M. Lambard saith ) was erected the first Schoole of professed Arts and Sciences , and the same a patterne vnto Sigibert King of the East-Angles , for his foundation at Cambridge : notwithstanding by the computation of time , this Sigibert was slaine by P●n●a King of Mercia , thirtie yeares before that Theodore the Grecian was Bishop of Canterbury , who is said to be the ●●ector of that Academie . But certaine it is , that Aust●● the Monke had made this Citie famous before that time , by the conuersion of these Saxons vnto Christianitie , and in building a most magnificent Church to Gods seruice , wherein eight of their Kings haue beene interred , but all their Monuments since ouer shadowed by the height of Beckets Tombe , that for glory , wealth , and superstitious worships , equalized the Pyramides of A●gypt , or the Oracle of Delphos , yet now with Dagon is fallen before the Arke of God .

This Citie hath beene honoured with the presence and Coronations of King I●hn and Queene Isabell his wife , with the marriages of King Henry the third , and of King Edward the first , and with the interments of Edward the Bl●●ke P●ince , King Henry the fourth , and of Queene 〈◊〉 his wife : as Feuersham is with the burials of King Stephen , and of Maud his Queene and wife But as in glory so in aduersitie hath this Citie borne a part , being d●●ers times affl●cted by the Danes , but most especially in the dayes of King Eth●red , who in that r●uenge of their massacre made hauock of all , and herein slew forty three thousand and two hundred persons , the tenth besides reserued to liue . Afterward it recouered breath and beautie by th● liberalitie of B●shop 〈◊〉 ; Charters and 〈◊〉 by King Henry the third ; strength in Trench and Fortifications from king Richard the second ; and lastly , Wals for her defence by Simon Sudbury Arch-bishop of that See : whose Gradu●tion is placed for Latitude 51. 25. and parallelized for Longitude 22 8. her sister Rochester differing not much in either degree .

(9) Which Citie ( as Beda saith ) was built by one Rof , Lord of the same , though some ascribe the foundation of the Castle Iulius Caesar , and hath beene often ruinated by the iniuries of warre , both in the times when the Saxons stroue for superioritie among themselues , wherein this Citie was layd waste , Anno 680. as also in the assaults of their common enemy the Danes , who about the yeare 884. from France sailed vp the Riuer Medwey , and besieged the same , so that had not King Elfred speedily come to the rescue , it had beene ouerthrowne by those Pagans . And againe in Anno 999. the Danes miserably spoiled this Citie in the time of King Ethelred : neither hath it stood safe from danger since ( though not defaced so much by warre ) for twice hath it beene sore endammaged by chance of fire : the first was in the raigne of King Henry the first , Anno 1130. himselfe being present with most of his Nobilitie , for the consecration of the Cathedrall Church of S. Andrew And againe almost wholly consumed about the latter end of the Raigne of King Henry the second , Anno 1177. Yet after all these calamities it recouered some strength againe , by the bountie of King Henry the third , both in buildings , and in ditching her about for defence .

( 10 ) Ciuill broyles and diffentions hath this Countie beene burdened with , and that not onely vnder the Saxons and Danes , whose desolations were many and grieuous , but also by other rebellions since the Normans Conquest , both in those infamous insurrections , called The Barons Warres , in the raigne of King Henry the Third , wherein much harme was done : as also vnder King Richard the second , when Wat Tiler , Captaine of a dreadfull commotion , assembled at Black-heath , Mile end , and in London , doing many outrages , where in Smithfield he was lastly strucke downe by William Walworth then Maior of the Citie , and worthily slaine for his notorious treasons . Againe , vpon Black-heath , Michael Ioseph , the Lord Dawbeny , with their Cornish Rebels , were ouerthrowne by King Henry the seauenth , Anno 1497.

SVSSEX . CHAPTER IIII.

SVTH-SEX , a word compounded of the sire th●reof Southward ; lyeth stretched along the British Seas . The North confronts vpon Sur●●y and Kent , and the West butteth vpon Ha●apshire .

(2) For forme it lyeth long and narrow , so that all her R●pes doe runne quite through the Shire , & containeth from We●●harting in the West , to Kent-ditch that diuides it from Kent in the East , sixtie foure miles , but in the broadest part little aboue twentie , the whole in circumference about one hundred fiftie eight miles .

(3) The ayre is good , though somewhat clouded with wists , which arise forth of her South bordering Sea , who is very prodigall vnto her for Fish and Sea-sowle , though as sparing for Harbours or Ships ariuage , and those which she hath , as vncertaine for continuance , as dangerous for entrance .

(4) Rich is the Soile and yeeldeth greatplentie of all things necessary , but very ill for trauellers , especially in the winter , the Land lying low and the wayes very deepe , whose middle tract is garnished with meadowes , pastures , and Corn-fields : the Sea-coast with Hilles which are called the Downs , abundantly yeelding both Graint and Grasse , and the North side ouershadowed with pleasant Groues and thicke Woods , where sometimes stood the famous wood Andradswald , containing no lesse then an hundred and twentie miles in length , and thirtie in bredth , taking the name of Anderida a Citie adioyning : both which were wonne from the Britaines by Llla the first Saxon King of this Prouince , and the place made fatall to Sigebert King of the West-Saxons , who being deposed from his Royall Throne , was met in this Wood by a Swine-heard , and slaine in reuenge of his Lord , whom Sigebert had murdered .

(5) The ancient people in the Romans time were the Regni , of whom we haue spoken , and who were subdued by Vespasian the Leader of the second Legion vnder A●lus Plautius , Liceutenant in Britaine for Claudius the Emperour . But after the departure of the Romanes , this , with Surrey was made the South-Saxons Kingdome : yet that giuing place to the West-Saxons , as they in time to the Normans , it became a Prouince vnder the Conquerours power , who gaue to his followers much Land in these parts ▪

(6) The place of most account in this Shire is Chichester , by the Britaines called Caercei , a Citie beautifull and large , and very well walled about , first built by Cissa the second King of the South-Saxons , wherein his Royall palace was kept . And when King William the First had enacted that Bishops Seas should be translated out of small Townes vnto places of greater resort , the Residence of the Bishop ( vntill then held at Selsey ) was remoued to this Citie , where Bishop Raulfe began a most goodly Cathedrall Church : but before it was fully finished , by a sudden mischance of fire was quite consumed . Yet the same Bishop , with the helping liberalitie of King Henry the First , began it againe , and saw it wholly finished ; whose beautie and greatnesse her fatall enemy still enuying , againe cast downe in the dayes of King Richard the First , and by her raging flames consumed the buildings both of it and the Bishops Palace adioyning , which Seffrid the second Bishop of that name reedified and built a new . And now to augment the honour of this place , the Citie hath borne the Title of an Earledome ; whereof they of Arundell were sometimes so stiled . Whose Gradustion for Latitude , is remoued from the Equator vnto the degree fiftie , fiftie fiue minutes ; and for Longitude , obseruing the same point in the West , whence Mercator hath measured , are twentie degrees .

(7) With whom for frequencie , bignesse , and building , the Towne Lewes seemeth to contend , where King Athelstan appointed the mintage of his Moneyes , and William de Warron built a strong Castle , whereunto the disloyall Barons of King Henry the Third in warlike manner resorted , and fought a great Battle against their owne Soueraigne and his sonne , wherein the King had his Horse slaine vnder him , Richard , King of the Romans surprised and taken in a Wind-mill , and Prince Edward deliuered vnto them vpon vnequall conditions of peace . But a greater Battle was fought at Battle , when the hazard of England was tryed in one dayes fight , and Harold the King gaue place to his Conquerour by losing of his life , among sixtie seuen thousand nine hundred seuentie-foure English men besides ; whose bloud so spilt , gaue name to the place , in French , Sangue lac . And the soile naturally after raine becomming of a reddish colour , caused William of Newbery vntruely to write , That if there fell any small sweet showers in the place where so great a slaughter of the English-men was made , presently sweateth forth very fresh bloud out of the earth , as if the euidence thereof did plainly declare the va●ce of bloud there shed , and cryed still from the earth vnto the Lord .

(8) But places of other note in this Shire are these : from Basham , Earle Harold taking the Sea for his delight , in a small Boat , was driuen vpon the Coast of Normandie , where by Duke William he was retained , till he had sworne to make him King after Edward Confessors death ; which oath being broken , the Bastard arriued at Pensey , and with his sword reuenged that Periurie at West-Wittering also Ella the Saxon before him had landed for the conquering of those parts and gaue name to the shore from Cimen his son . But with greater glory doth Gromebridge raise vp her head , where Charles Duke of Orleaunce , father to Lewes the twelfth , King of France , taken prisoner at Agincourt , was there a long time detained .

(9) The commodities of this Prouince are many and diuers , both in Corne , Cattle , Woods , Iron , and Glasse ; which two last , as they bring great gaine to their possessors , so doe they impouerish the Countie of Woods , whose want will be found in ages to come , if not at this present in some sort felt .

( 10 ) Great haue beene the deuotions of religious Persons in building and consecrating many houses vnto the vse and onely seruice of Christ ; whose Beadmen abusing the intents of their Founders , hath caused those Foundations to lament their owne ruines : for in the tempestuous time of King Henry the Eight , eighteene of them in this Countie were blowne downe , whose fruit iell into the ●appes of some that neuer meant to restore them againe to the like vse .

SVRREY . CHAPTER V.

SVRREY , by Beda called Suthri , lieth separated vpon the North from the Counties of ●●●kingham and Mia●lesex , by the great Riuer Tha●●s●s ; vpon the East Kent doth inbound it ; vpon the South is held in with Sussex and Hampshire : and her West part is bordered vpon by Hamp-shire and Bark-shire .

(2) The forme thereof is somewhat square , and lieth by Northand by East , whereof Redrith and Frensham are the opposites , betwixt whom are extended thirtie-foure miles . The broadest part is from Awfold Southward , to Thamisis by Stanes , and them asunder twentie two : the whole in circumference is one hundred and twelue miles .

(3) The Heauens breathing ayre in this Shire is most sweet and delectable , so that for the same cause many royall Palaces of our Princes are therein seated , and the Countrey better stored with game then with graine , insomuch that this Countie is by some men compared vnto a home-spunne freeze cloth , with a costly faire lift , for that the out-verge doth exceed the middle itselfe . And yet is it wealthy enough both in Corne and Pasturage , especially in H●●esdale , and towards the Riuer of Thamisis .

(4) In this Shire the Regni ( an ancient people mentioned by Ptolemie ) were seated , whom he brancheth further thorow Sussex and some part of Hamp-shire And in the wane of the Romans gouernment , when the Land was left to the will of Inuaders , the South-Saxons vnder Ella here erected their Kingdome , which with the first was raised , and soonest found end . From them no doubt the Courtie was named Suth-rey , as seated vpon the South of the Riuer ; and now by contraction is called Surrey .

(5) And albeit the Countie is barren of Cities or Townes of great estate , yet is she stored with many Princely Houses , yea and fiue of his Majesties , so magnificently built , that of some she may well say , no Shire hath none such , as is None-such indeed . And were not Richmond a fatall place of Englands best Princes , it might in esteeme be ranked with the richest : for therein died the great Conquerour of France , King Edward the Third , the beautifull Anne daughter to Charles the Fourth , Emperour , and intirely beloued wife to King Richard the Second ; the most wise Prince King Henry the Seuenth , and the rarest of her Sexe , the Mirrour of Princes , Queene Elizabeth , the worlds loue , and Subiects joy .

(6) At Merton likewise Kenulph King of the West-Saxons came to his vntimely end : and at Lambeth the hardre Canute , and last of the Danish Kings , died among his Cuppes But as these places were fatall for the last breath of these Princes , so other in this Countie haue beene graced with the body and beginning of other worthy Monarkes : for in Cherts●y Abbey King Henry the Sixth , who was deposed and made away in the Tower of London , was first interred without all funerall pompe , but for his holy life was imputed a Saint , and lastly translated , and intombed at Windsore . At Kingston likewise stood the Chaire of Maiestic , wherein Athelstan , Edwin , and Ethelred sate at their Coronation , and first receiued their Seepter of Imperiall Power Guildfor● likewise hath beene farre greater then now it is , when the Place of our English-Saxon King● was therein set . And seeing it is the midst of the Shire , the Graduation from hence shall be obserued , where for Latitude the Pole is raised from the degree 51. 22. scruples : and her Longitude from the West in the degree 20. and 2. scruples .

(7) Neither can we account Okam and Ripley , two small Villages , the least in this Shire , which haue brought forth the well knowne men , William de Okam , that deepe Philosopher , and admirable Scholar , and George de Ripley , the rung leader of our Alchymists and mysticall impostors ; both of them borne in this Countie , and very neere together . But why speake I of these , sith a place neerer to sight , and greater for fame , euen Lambeth , is the High Seat of Ecclesiasticall Gouernment , Pietie , and Learning , and Palace of Canterburies Arch-bishops , the Metropolitan● of England . First erected by Archbishop Daldwin , and euer since hath beene the residing of all those worthy Prelates of our Church , who in a long succession ( euen from Anno 596 ) haue continued to him that now most worthily sits at the Churches sterne , Richard by Gods prouidence Lord Archbishop of that See , a most faithfull and prudent Counsellor vnto King IAMES , and a most learned and prouident Guide of our most flourishing Church : whose gracious fauour vndeseruedly conferred vpon me , hath beene a great encouragement to these my poore endeuours .

(8) Memorable places for Battles sought before the Conquest , were Wembledon , where ( when the fulnesse of prosperitie burst forth into Ciuill Dissensions among the Saxons ) a bloudy Battle was fought betwixt Cheau●in the West-Saxon and young Ethelbert of Kent , wherein he was discomfited , and two of his principall Leaders slaine , about the yeare of Christ 560. and three hundred thirtie three yeares after , King Elfred with a small power ouercame the Danes with a great slaughter at Faruham in this Countie , which somewhat quelled the courage of his sauage enemy .

(9) Religious Houses erected in this Shire by the deuotion of Princes , and set apart ffom publike vses to Gods Diuine Seruice , and their owne Saluation , as then was taught , the best in account were Sbene , Chertsey , Merton , Newarke , Rygate , Wauerley , Horsleg ; and in Southwarke , Bermundsey , and S. Maries . These all flourished with increase , till the ripe●esse of their fruit was so pleasing in sight and taste vnto King HENRY the Eight , that in beating the boughes he brake downe body and all , ruinating those houses , and seazing their rich possessions into his owne hands . So jealous is GOD of his honour ; and so great vengeance followeth the sinne of Idolatrie .

HANT-SHIRE . CHAPTER VI.

HANT-SHIRE , lying vpon the West of England , Is bordered vpon the North by Barkshire , vpon the East with Surrey and Sussex , vpon the South with the British Seas , and I le of Wight , and vpon the West with Dorset and Wilt-shires .

(2) The length thereof from Blackwater in the North vpon Surrey , vnto Bascomb in the South vpon the Sea , extended in a right line , is fiftie foure English miles : and the breadth drawne from Peters-field in the East , vnto Tidworth in the West , and confines of Wilt-shire , is little lesse then thirtie miles , the whole Circumference about one hundred fiftie and fiue miles .

(3) The Aire is temperate , though somewhat thicke by reason of the Seas , and the many Riuers that thorow the Shire doe fall , whose plentie of fish and fruitfull increase , doe manifoldly redeeme the harmes which they make .

(4) The Soile is rich for Corne and Cattle , pleasant for pasturage , and plenteous for woods ; in a word , in all commodities either for Sea or Land , blessed and happy .

(5) Hauens it hath , and those commodious both to let in , and to loose out Ships of great burthen in trade of Merchandise , or other imployments : whereof Portsmouth , Tichfield , Hamble , and South-hampton are chiefe : besides many other creeks that open their bosomes into those Seas , and the Coast strengthned with many strong Castles , such as Hurst , Calshot , South-hampton , S. Andrewes , Worth , Porchester , and the South Castle , besides other Bulwarkes , or Blockhouses that secure the Country : and further in the Land , as Malwood , Winchester , and Odiam , so strong , that in the time of King Iohn , thirteene English-men onely defended the Fort for fifteene dayes against Lewis of France , that with a great Host assaulted it most hotly .

(6) Anciently it was possest vpon the North by the Segontians , who yeelded themselues to Iulius Caesar , and whose chiefe Citie was Vindonum , Caer Segonte , now Silcester ; and vpon the South by the Belga , and Regni , who were subdued by Plausius and Vespasian the Romans , where Titus rescuing his Father , straitly besieged by the Britaines , as Dio and Forcatulus doe report , was grasped about with an Adder , but no hurt to his person , and therefore taken for a signe of good lucke . Their chiefe Towne was Rincewood , as yet sounding the name : and more within Land inhabited the Manures , as Beda cals them , whose Hundreds also to this day giue a relish of their names .

(7) Neere Ringwood , and the place once Y●EN● , from God and peoples seruice , to Beast and luxury , thirtie-sixe Parish-Churches were conuerted and pulled downe by the Conquerour , and thirtie miles of circuit inforrested for his game of Hunting , wherein his sonnes Richard and Rufus , with Henry the second sonne to Duke Robert , his first , felt by hasty death the hand of Iustice & Reuenge : for in the same Forrest , Richard by blasting of a pestilent ayre , Rufus by shot taken for a beast , and Henry as Absalom hanged by a bough , came to their vntimely ends At so deare a rate the pleasures of dogs , and harbour for beasts were bought in the bloud of these Princes .

(8) The generall commodities gotten in this Shire , are Woolls , Clothes , and Iron , whereof great store is therein wrought from the Mines , and thence transported into all parts of this Realme , and their Clothes and Karsies carried into many forraine Countries , to that Countries great benefit , and Englands great prayse .

(9) The Trade thereof , with other prouisions for the whole , are vented thorow eighteene Market-Townes in this Shire , whereof Winchester , the Britaines Caer Gwent , the Romans Venta Belgarum , is chiefe , ancient enough by our British Historians , as built by King Rudhudibras , nine hundred yeares before the Natiuitie of Christ : and famous in the Romans times for the weauings and embroderies therein wrought , to the peculiar vses of their Emperours owne persons . In the Saxons time , after two Calamities of consuming fire , her walles was raised , and the Citie made the Royall Seate of their West-Saxons Kings , and the Metropolitan of their Bishops See , wherein Egbert and 〈◊〉 their most famous Monarchs were Crowned : and Henry the third , the Normans longest 〈◊〉 , first tooke breath : And here King Aethelstane erected six houses for his Mint● but the Danish desolution ouer-running all , this Citie felt their fury in the dayes of King Ethelbright , and in the Normans time , twice was defaced by the mis-fortune of fire , which they againe repaired and graced with the trust of keeping the publike Records of the Realme . In the ciuill warres of Maud and Stephen , this Citie was sore sacked , but againe receiuing breath , was by King Edward the third appointed the place for Mart of Wooll and Cloth . The Cathedrall Church built by Kenwolf King of the West-Saxons , that had beene Amphibalus , S. Peters , Swithins , and now holy Trinitie , is the Sanctuarie for the ashes of many English Kings : for herein great Egbert , Anno 836. with his sonne King Ethelwolfe , 857. Here Elfred , Oxfords founder , 901 with his Queene Elswith , 904. Here the first Edmund before the Conquest , 924. with his sonnes Elfred and Elsward : Here Edred , 955. and Edwy , 956 both Kings of England : Here Emme , 1052. with her Danish Lord Canute , 1035. and his sonne Hardicanute , 1042. And here lastly the Normans , Richard and Rufus , 1100. were interred ; their bones by Bishop Fox were gathered and shrined in little guilt coffers fixed vpon a wall in the Quire , where still they remaine carefully preserued .

This Cities situation is fruitfull and pleasant , in a vally vnder hils , hauing her River on the East , and Castle on the West , the circuit of whose walls are well neere two English miles , containing one thousand eight hundred and eightie paces ; thorow which openeth sixe gates for entrance , and therein are seauen Churches for diuine Seruice , besides the Minister , and those decayed ; such as Callender , ●uell Chappell , S. Maries Abbey , and the Friers , without in the Suburbes , and Soo●● ; in the East is S. Peters , and in the North Hyde Church and Monasterie , whose ruines remaining , shew the beautie that formerly it bare . The Graduation of this Citie by the Mathematickes , is placed for Latitude in the degree 51. 10. minutes , and for Longitude 19. 3. minutes .

( 10 ) More South , is South-hampton , a Towne populous , rich and beautifull , from whom the whole Shire deriueth her name , most strongly walled about with square stone , containing in circuit , one thousand and two hundred paces , hauing seauen Gates for entrance , and twentie-nine Towres for defence , two very stately Keyes for Ships arriuage , and fiue faire Churches for Gods diuine seruice , besides an Hospitall , called G●ds house , wherein the vnfortunate Richard , Earle of Cambridge , beheaded for treason , lieth interred . On the West of this Towne is mounted a most beautifull Castle , in forme Circular , and wall within wall , the foundation vpon a hill so topped , that it cannot be ascended but by staires , carrying a goodly prospect both by Land and Sea , and in the East without the walles a goodly Church sometimes stood , called S Maries , which was pulled downe , for that it gaue the French direction of course , who with fire had greatly endangered the Towne : in stead thereof , is newly erected a small and vnfinished Chappell . In this place , saith learned Cambden , stood the ancient Clausentium , or fort of the Romans , whose circuit on that side extended it selfe to the Sea : this suffered many depredations by the Saxon Pirates , and in Anno 980. was by the Danes almost quite ouerthrowne . In King Edward the thirds time , it was fired by the French , vnder the Conduct of the King of Sicils sonne , whom a Country man encountred and strucke downe with his Club , He crying Rancon , that is , Ransome : but he neither vnderstanding his language , nor the Law that Armes doth allow , laid on more soundly , saying : I know thee a Frankon , and therefore shalt thou dit : and in Richard the seconds time it was somewhat remoued , and built in the place where now it standeth In this Clausentium , Canute to euict his flatterers , made triall of his Deitie , commanding the Seas to keepe backe from his seat : but being not obeyed , he acknowledged God to be the onely supreame Gouernour , and in a religious deuotion gaue vp his Crowne to the Rood at Winchester . More ancient was Silcester , built by Constantius , great Constantines sonne , whose Monument ( they say ) was seene in that Citie , and where another Constantine put on the purple roabe against Hono●●● , as both Ni●ius and Geruase of Canterbury doe witnesse . Herein by our Historians record , the warlike Arthur was Crowned . Whose greatnesse for circuit contained no lesse then fourescore Acres of ground , and the walles of great height , yet standing two miles in compasse about . This Citie by the Danish Rouers suffred such wracke , that her mounted tops were neuer since seene , and her Hulke ( the wals ) in mured to the middle in the earth , which the rubbish of her owne desolations hath filled .

WIGHT ILAND . CHAPTER VII .

WIGHT ILAND was in times past named by the Romans Vecta , Vectis , and Vectesis , by the Britaines , Guyth , and in these dayes vsually called by vs , The I le of Wight . It belongeth to the Countrie of South-hampton , and lyeth out in length ouer against the midst of it South-ward . It is encompassed round with the British . Seas , and seuered from the Maine land . that it may seeme to haue beene conjoyned to it , and thereof it is thought the Brittish name ( Guyth ) hath beene giuen vnto it , which betokeneth separation , euen as 〈◊〉 being broken off and cut from Italy , got the name from Secando ( which signifieth cutting . )

(2) The forme of this Isle is long , and in the middest farre more wide then at eyther end : from 〈◊〉 I le in the 〈◊〉 , to 〈◊〉 Castle in the West it stretcheth out in length 20. miles , and in 〈…〉 Northward , to 〈…〉 Southward 12. miles . The whole in circumference 〈…〉 .

(3) The ay●e is commended both for health and delight , whereof the first is witnessed by the 〈◊〉 continuance of the Inhabitants in the state of then bodies before they be decayed , and the other for quantitie giues place to no neighbouring Country .

(4) The ground ( to say nothing of the Sea , which is exceeding full of fish ) consisteth of soile very fruitfull ; yet the husbandmans labour deserues to be thankfully remembred , by whose paines and industry it doth not onely supply it selfe , but affords ●orne to be carryed forth to others . The ●and is plenteously stored with Cattle and Graine , and breeds euery where store of Conies , Hares , Patridges and Phesants , pleasant for medow , pasturage , and Parkes ; so that nothing is wanting that may suffice man . The middest yeelds plentie of pasture ; and forrage for Sheepe ; whose wooll the Clothiers esteeme the best ; next vnto that of Leinster and Cotteswold : If you cast your eyes towards the North , it is all ouer garnished with Meadowes , Pastures , and Woods : If towards the South side , it lyeth ( in a manner ) wholy bedecked with Cornefields enclosed , where at each end the Sea doth so incroach●t selfe . that it maketh almost two Ilands besides , namely , Fresh-water Isle , which looketh to the West , and B●nbridge isle answering it to the East .

(5) The Commodities of the whole chiefly consist of Cattle , Sea fowle , Fish , and Corne , whereof it hath sufficient : Woods are not here very plentifull ; for that it is onely stored with one little Forrest ; yet the Country of Hamshire for vicinitie of Site , is a friendly neighbour in that behalfe ; so ( as it were being tyed together in affinitie ) they are alwayes readie , and propense to adde to each others wants and defects by a mutuall supply .

(6) The ancient Inhabitants of this Iland were the Belga , spoken of in the seuerall Prouinces of S●merset-shire , Wilt-shire , and Hamshire . Such as did then possesse it were called Lords of the Isle of wight , till it fell into the Kings hands , by R●ger ( Sonne to William Fits Osburne , slaine in the warre of Flanders ) that was driuen into exile . And Henry the first King of England gaue it vnto Richard Riduers , with the see or Inheritance of the Towne of Christs-Church , where ( at in all other places ) he built certaine Fortrestes .

(7) The principall Market-Towne in the Isle is Newport , called in times past Medena , and Novus Burgus de Meden ; that is , the new Burgh of Meden , whereof the whole Countrey is diuided into East - Meden , and West Meden . A Towne well seated , and much frequented ; vnto whose Burgesles his Majestie hath lately granted the choyse of a Major , who with his Brethren , doe gouerne accordingly . It is populous with Inhabitants , hauing an entrance into the Isle from the Hauen , and a passage for Vessels of small burden vnto the Key . Not farre from it is the Castle Caresbrooke , whose founder is said to haue beene Whitgar the Saxon , and from him called White-Garesburgh : but now made shorter for easier pronunciation ; the graduation whereof for Latitude is in the degree 50. 36. minutes : and her Longitude in 19. 4. minutes , where , formerly hath stood a Priory , and at Quarre a Nunnery ; a necessary neighbour to those Penitentiaries . And yet in their merry mood , the Inhabitants of this Iland doe boast , that they were happier then their neighbour Countries , for that they neuer had Monke that euer wore hood , Lawyers that cauilled , nor Foxes that were craftie .

(8) It is reported , that in the yeare of mans saluation , 1176. and twentie-three of King Henry the second , that in this Iland it rained a showre of bloud , which continued for the space of 2 houres together to the great wonder and amazement of the people that beheld it with feare .

(9) This Isle of Wight is fortified both by Art and Nature : for besides the strength of Artificiall Forts and Blocke-houses ( wherewith it is well furnished ) it wants not the assistance of naturall Fences , as being enriched with a continuall ridge and range of craggy Cliffes and Rockes , and Bankes very dangerous for Saylers , as the Needles , so called by reason of their sharpnesse : The Shingles , Mixon , Brambles , &c.

( 10 ) Vespasian was the first that brought it to the subiection of the Romaenes , whilest he serued as a priuate person vnder Claudius Caesar . And Cerdic was the first English Saxon that subdued it , who granting it vnto S●uffe and Whitgar , they joyntly together slew ( almost ) all the Brittish Inhabitants ( being but few of them , there remaining ) in the Towne aforesaid , called of his Name Whitgaresburgh . Wolpher King of the Merciam reduced this Iland afterwards vnder his obedience , and at that time when he became God-father to Edelwalch King of the South-Saxons , and answered for him at his Baptisme ; he assigned it ouer vnto him , with the Prouince also of the Menuari . But when Edelwalch was slaine , and Aruandus the petty King of the Iland was made away , Coedwalla King of the West-Saxons annexed it to his Dominion , and in a tragicall and lamentable Massacre put to the sword ( almost ) euery mothers childe of the in-borne Inhabitants .

The thing that is best worthy note and obseruation is this , That Bishop Wilfrid was the first that instructed the Inhabitants of this Iland in Christian Religion , and brought them from Idolatrous Superstition , with the which ( vnto that time ) they were obscurely blinded .

DORCESTER-SHIRE . CHAPTER VIII .

DORCESTER , from her ancient people DVROTRIGES , is most likely to haue receiued that name : by the Britaines called DVVRGVVEIR , lyeth bounded vpon the North-side with Somerset and W●lt-shire ; vpon the West with D●●●shire , and some part with Somerset ; vpon the East altogether with Hampshire : and her South part is wholly bounded with the British Seas .

(2) The forme growes wider from the West , and spreads her selfe the broadest in the midst , where it extends to twentie-foure miles , but in length is no lesse then fortie-foure : the whole in Circumference about , is one hundred and fiftie miles .

(3) The ayre is good , and of an healthfull constitution : the soyle is fat , affording many commodities , and the Countrey most pleasant in her situation : for the In-land is watered with many sweet and fresh running Springs , which taking passage thorow the plaine Vallies , doe lastly in a louing manner vnite themselues together , and of their many branches make many bigge bodied streames : neither doth the Sea deny them entrance , but helpeth rather to fill vp their Bankes , whereby Vessels of burden discharge their rich Treasures , and her selfe with open hand distributeth her gifts all along the South of this Shore .

(4) Anciently it was possest by the Durotriges , whom Ptolemie placeth along in this Tract , who being subdued by the Romans , yeelded them roome , and vnwilling subiection . After them the Saxons set foot in these parts , whereof Portland seemeth from that Port to take name , who in this place arriued in Anno 703. and did sorely infest and annoy all the South Tract . And at Bindon before him Kinegillus King of the West-Saxons , in the yeare of Christ 614. in a doubtfull and dangerous Battle vanquished the Britaines Neither were the Saxons so surely herein seated , but that the Danes sought to defeat them thereof : for twice these bold Rouers landed at Chartmouth , the first was in Anno 831. and raigne of King Egbert ; and the other eight yeares after , when Ethelwulfe was King : in both which they went away Victors . Yet when the Iron-side wore the English Diademe , and these fierce people sought to plucke it from his Helmet , he met them at Pen ham in Gillingham Forrest , and with a small power obtained a great victory , causing their King Canute with discourage to retire .

(5) Commodities arising in this Countie are chiefly Wools and Woods in her North , where the Forrests are stored with the one , and the pleasant greene Hilles with the other . The inner part is ouer-spread both with Corne and Grasse , and the Sea yeeldeth the Isidis Plocamos , a Shrub growing not vnlike the Corrall without any leafe ; besides her other gifts , turning all to great gaine : which the more is made manifest by the many Market . Townes in this Shire , whereof Dorchester is the chiefe , in Antonius his 〈◊〉 termed Durnouaria , situated vpon the South side of Frome , and the 〈…〉 called ●osse-way , wherein some of their L●gions kept , a , by the Rampiers and Coines there daily digged vp is probably coniectured ; at which time it seemeth the Citie was walled , whereof some part yet standeth , especially vpon the West and South sides , and the Tract and Trench most apparent in a Quadrant-wise almost meeteth the Riuer , containing in circuit one thousand and seuen hundred pases , but were cast downe by the Danes , whose tran●pling feete destroyed all things wheresoeuer they came , and hands here razed the Trenches Mandbury and Poundbury , theseales of their Siege , and signes of times miserie . About three hundred pases Southward from hence , standeth an old Fortification of Earth , trenched about , and mounted aboue the ordinary plaine , thirtie pases , containing some fiue Acres of ground ; wherein ( at my there-being ) plentie of Corne grew . This the Inhabitants call The Maiden-Castle , hauing entrance thereunto onely vpon the East and West This is thought to haue beene a Summer-Campe or Station of the Romans , when their Garrisons kept the Frontiers of this Prouince .

The gouernment of this City is yearely committed to two Bailiffes , elected out of eight Magistrates or Aldermen , a Recorder , Towr●-Clerke , and two Sergeants attending them : whence the North-pole is eleuated 50. degrees 48. minutes in Latitude , and for Longitude is remooued from the first West-point vnto the Meridian of 18. degrees .

(6) Other places also are memorable through the actions therein happening , or antiquities there yet remaining : such is Badbury , now nothing but a Trench and decayed Castle , hardly seene , though sometimes it was the Court of the West-Saxons Kings . Such also is Cerne , where Augustine the English Apostle brake downe the Altars and Idols of the Saxons God HELL , whom they deuoutly honoured as the onely conseruer of their health . Shaftesbury also , wherein one Aquila ( whether a Man or Eagle I know not ) by our Historians report , is said to haue prophecied the future times of this our Empire , and that after the raignes of the Saxons and Norman ▪ it should againe returne vnto the gouernment of the British Kings . But with such vaine predictions our Nation is more then once taxed by Philip 〈◊〉 the famous French Writer . In this Citie Edward the sonne of great Edgar , and one and thirtieth Monarch of the English-men , was interred , being murdered at Corfe , a Castle seated in the I le of Purbeck , by his Step-mother Aelfrith , to make way for her sonne to enioy his Crowne : in repentance whereof , and to pacifie Heauen for his bloud , she built the Monasteries of Ambresbury and Whorwell , in the Countie of Wilt-shire and South-Hamton . In the former of which with great penitency she spent the rest of her life .

(7) As vpon the like occasion the Monastery of Middleton was laied in this Shire by King Ethelstan to appease the Ghost of Edwine his innocent brother , and to expiate the sinne of his owne soule for the bloud of that iust Prince , whom most vniustly he caused to die : and with the like deuotion , though not to satisfie for the like blo●die sinnes ▪ did Queene Cuthbarga sue a Diuorce from her second husband the Northumberlands King , and it Winburne built her a Nunnery , whereof her selfe bec●me Abbesse , where afterward was raised a most stately Minster , which added not onely more glory to the place , but withall enlarged the name , and made it to be called Wimburn-minster , where King Ethel●●● . a most vertuous Prince , after much disqu●●●nesse had with the Danes , in peace here resteth , with his Tombe and Inscription , as in his History ( Christ assisting ) shall be further seene . Neither among these may I omit Sherburne , which in the yeare of grace 704. was made a Bishops See , in whose Cathedrall Church were interred the bodies of Ethelbald and Ethelbert , brethren , both of them Monarkes of the English-men .

(8) Seuen more besides these were set apart from worldly imployments , consecrated onely to God and his seruice in this Shire ; which were Camestern , Cranborn , Ab●ottesbury , Bindon , Sturmister , Tarrant , and Warham These with the others came to their full period vnder the hand of King Henry the Eight , which lay with such waight vpon their fai●e buildings , that he crushed the iuyce thereof into his owne Coffers .

DEVON-SHIRE . CHAPTER IX .

DEVON-SHIRE , by the Cornish Britaines called Deuinan ; and by contraction of the vulgar Denshire , is not deriued from the Danes , as some would haue it , but from the people Danmonij , the same we will speake of in Cornwall , and whom Ptolemie hath seated in these Westerne Borders .

(2) The West of this County is bounded altogether by the Riuer Tamar : the East is held in with the verge of Somerset-shire : and the North and South sides are washed wholy with the British and Severne Seas : Betwixt whose shoares from Cunshere in the North , vnto Salcombe Hauen entering in at the South , are fiftie fiue miles : and from the Hartland Point West , to Thorncombe East , are fiftie foure : the whole Circumference about two hundred and two miles .

(3) The Ayre is sharpe , healthfull and good : the Soile is hilly , wooddy and fruitfull , yet so as the hand of the Manurer must neuer be idle , nor the purse of the Farmer neuer fast shut , especially of them that are farre from the Sea , whence they fetch a sand with charge and much trauell , which being spread vpon the face of the earth , bettereth the leannesse thereof for graine , and giueth life to the Glebe with great efficacy .

(4) As Cornwall , so this hath the same commodities that arise from the Seas : and being more inlanded hath more commodious Hauens for Sh●ppings entercourse , among whom Totnes is famous for Brutes first entrance , if Geffry say true , or if Hau●llan the Poet tooke not a Poeticall libertie , when speaking of Brute , he wrote thus : The Gods did guide his sayle and course : the winds were at command : And Totnes was the happie shoare where first he came on land . But with more credit and lamentable euent , the Danes at Teigne-mouth first entred for the inuasion of this Land , about the yeare of Christ 787. vnto whom Brightrik King of the West-Saxons sent the Steward of his house to know their intents , whom resistantly they slew : yet were they forced backe to their Ships by the Inhabitants , though long they stayed not , but eagerly pursued their begun enterprises ▪

With more happie successe hath Plimouth set forth the purchasers of same , and stopped the entrance of Englands Inuaders , as in the Raigne of that eternized Queene , the mirrour of Princes , Elizabeth of euerlasting memory : for from this Port Sir Francis Drake , that potent man at Sea , setting forth Anno 1577 in the space of two yeares and ten moneths did compasse the circle of the earth by Sea . And the Lord Charles Howard , Englands high Admirall , did not onely from hence impeach the entrance of the proud inuincible Spanish Nauy , intending inuasion and subuersion of State , but with his Bullets so signed their passage ; that their sides did well shew in whose hands they had beene , as seales of their owne shame , and his high honour .

(5) The commodities of this Shire consist much in Wools and Clothings , where the best and finest Kersies are made in the Land Corne is most plenteous in the fruitfull Vallies , and Cattle spreading vpon the topped Hils ; Sea Fish and Fowle exceedingly abundant . Veynes of Lead , yea and some of Siluer in this Shire are found : and the Load-stone ( not the least for vse and esteeme ) from the Rocks vpon Dart-more hath beene taken Many fresh Springs doe bubble from the Hils in this Prouince , which with a longing desire of Socretie search out their passage , till they meete and conjoyne in the Vallies , and gathering still strength with more branches , lastly grow bodyed able to beare Ships into the Land , and to lodge them of great burthen in their Bosomes or Fals : whereof Tamar , Taue , and Ex are the fairest and most commodious ▪

(6) Vpon which last the chiefe Citie and Shire-Towne of this Countie is seated , and from that Riuer hath her name Excester : this Citie by Ptolemie is called Is●a ; by the 〈…〉 Emperour , Is●a Danmoniorum ; and by the We so 〈◊〉 . It is pleasantly seated vpon the gentle ●scent of an hill , so stately for building , so rich with 〈…〉 strangers , that a man can desire nothing but 〈…〉 . The walls of this Citie first built by King 〈…〉 but towards the Ex rangeth almost in a straight line hauing six Gates for entrance , and many 〈…〉 betwixt , whose compasse containeth about fifteene hundred paces : vpon the East part of this Citie standeth a Castle called Rugemont , sometimes the Palace of the West-Saxon Kings , and after them of the Earles of Cornwall , whose prospect is pleasant vnto the 〈…〉 magnificent Cathedrall Church , founded by King Athelstan also , in the honour of S. Peter , and by Edward the Confessor made the Bishops See , which the remoued from 〈…〉 in this Countie vnto the Citie of Excester ( as saith the priuate History of that place : ) whose ●●●apidations the reuerend Father in God William now Bishop of the Diocesse with great cost hath repaired ; whom I may not name without a most thankfull remembrance for the great benefits receiued by his carefull prouidence toward me and mine . This Citie was so strong and so well stored of Britaines , that they held out against the Saxons for 465. yeares after their first entrance , and was not absolutely 〈◊〉 vntill Athelstan became Monarch of the whole , who then peopled it with his Saxons , and 〈◊〉 the beautie thereof with many faire buildings : but in the times of the Danish desolations this Citie with the rest , felt their destroying hands ; for in the yeare 875. it was by them fore afflicted , spoyled , and shaken , and that most grieuously by Swane in the yeare of Christ Iesus 1003. who razed it downe from East to West , so that scarcely had it gotten breath before William the bastard of Normandy besieged it , against whom the Citizens with great manhood serued , till a part of the wall fell downe of it selfe , and that by the hand of Gods prouidence , saith mine Author : since when it hath beene three times besieged , and with valiant resistance euer defended . The first was by Hugh Courtney , Earle of Deuenshire , in the Ciuill broyles betwixt Lancaster and Yorke : then by Perbin Warbeck , that counterfeited Richard Duke of Yorke : and lastly , by the Cornish Rebels , wherein although the Citizens were grieuously pinched with scarsitie , yet continued they their faithfull allegeance vnto King Edward the sixt ; and at this day flourisheth in tranquillitie and wealth , being gouerned by a Major , twentie-foure Brethren , with a Recorder , Towne-Clerke , and other Officers their Attendants . This Cities graduation is set in the degree of Latitude from the North-Pole 50. and 45. scruples : and for Longitude from the West , to the degree 16. and 25. scruples . Neither is Ioseph that excellent Poet , whose birth was in this Citie , the least of her Ornaments , whose Writings bare so great credit , that they were divulged in the Germane language vnder the name of Cornelius Nepos .

The like credit got Crediton in her birth-child Winefred the Apostle of the Hassians , Thuringers , and Frisians of Germany , which were conuerted by him vnto the Gospell and knowledge of Christ .

(7) Places memorable in this Countie remaining for signes of Battles , or other antiquities are these : vpon Exmore certaine Monuments of Anticke-worke are erected , which are stones pitched in order , some triangle-wise , and some in round compasse : these no doubt were trophies of victories there obtained , eyther by the Romans , Saxons , or Danes , and with Danish letters one of them is inscribed , giuing direction to such as should trauell that way . Hublestowe likewise neere vnto the mouth of Tawe , was the buriall place of Hubba the Dane , who with his Brother Hungar , had harried the English in diuers parts of the Land : but lastly was there encountred with , and slaine by this Shires Inhabitants , and vnder a heape of copped stones interred , and the Banner Reasen there and then taken , that had so often beene spread in the Danes quarrell , and wherein they reposed no small confidence for successe .

(8) A double dignitie remaineth in this Countie , where Princes of State haue borne the Titles both of Deuonshire and Excester : of which Citie , there haue beene entituled Dukes , the last of whom , namely , Henry Holland , Grand-childe to Iohn Holland , halfe-brother to King Richard the second ; siding with Lancaster against Edward the fourth , whose Sister was his wife , was driuen to such misery , as Philip Comineus reporteth , that he was seene all torne and bare-footed to beg his liuing in the Low Countries : and lastly , his body was cast vpon the shore of Kent ( as if he had perished by shipwracke ) so vncertaine is Fortune in her endowments , and the state of man , notwithstanding his great birth .

(9) Religious houses in this Shire built in deuotion , and for Idolatry pulled downe , were at Excester , Torbay , Tanton , Tauestoke , Kirton , Ford , Hartland , Axmister , and Berstable .

CORNWALL . CHAPTER X.

CORNWALL ( as Matthew of Westminster affirmeth ) is so named partly from the forme , and partly from her people : for shooting it selfe into the Sea like a Horne ( which the Britaines call Kerne ) and inhabited by them whom the Saxons named Willia ; of these two compounded words it became Cornwallia . Not to trouble the Reader with the Fable of Corineus , cousin to King Brute , who in free gift receiued this Countie in reward of his prowesse , for wrastling with the Grant Gogmagog , and breaking his necke from the Cliffe of Deuer , as ●e of Monmouth hath fabuled .

(2) Touching the temperature of this Countie , the ayre thereof is cleansed as with Bellowes , by the Billowes that euer worke from o●t her enuironing Seas , where thorow it becommeth pure and subtill , and is made thereby very healthfull , but withall so 〈◊〉 and shar●e , that it is apter to preserue then to recouer health . The spring is not so early as in the more Easterne parts ; yet the Summer with a temperate heat recompenceth his slow fostering of the fruits , with their most kindly ripening . The Autumne bringeth a somewhat late haruest : and the Winter , by reason of the Seas warme breath , maketh the cold milder then else-where . Notwithstanding that Countrey is much subiect to stormy blasts , who●e violence hath freedome from the open waues , to beat vpon the dwellers at Land , leauing many times their houses vncouered .

(3) The Soile for the most part is lifted vp into many hilles , parted a sunder with narrow and short vallies , and a shallow earth doth couer their out-side , which by a Sea-weede called Orewood , and a certaine kinde of fruitfull Sea-sand , they make so ranke and batten , as is vncredible . But more are the riches that out of those hilles are gotten from the Mines of Copper and Tinne ; which Countrey was the first , and continueth the best stored in that Merchandize , of any in the world Timaeus the Historian in Plinie reporteth , that the Britaines fetched their Tinne in wicker-boats , stitched about with Leather And D●octo●us 〈◊〉 of Augustus Caesars time writeth , that the Britaines in this part digged Tinne out of 〈◊〉 ground , which by Merchants was carried into Gallia , and thence to Narborne , as it were to a Ma● : Which howsoeuer the Englis-Saxons neglected , yet the Normans made great benefit thereof , especially Richard brother to King Henry the third , who was Earle of Cornwall , and by those Tinne - 〈◊〉 became exceedingly rich : for the in●●●sions of the Mo●res hauing stopped vp the Tinne-Mines 〈◊〉 , and them in Germany not discouered before the yeare of Christ 1240. these in Cornwall 〈…〉 the want in all parts of the world . This Earle made certaine Tinne-Lawes , which with liberties and priuiledges were confirmed by Earle Edmund his sonne . And in the dayes of King Ed●●● the third the Common-weale of Tinne-workes from one body was diuided into foure , and a 〈…〉 of the Stan●●●rs appointed then Iudge .

(4) The Borders of this Shire on all parts but the East is bound in with the Sea : and had Tamer 〈◊〉 his course but foure miles further to the North , betwixt this Countie and Deuonshire , it might haue beene rather accounted an Iland , then stood with the May●e Her length is from Launston to the 〈◊〉 , containing by measure 60 miles : and the broadest part , stretching along by the Tamer , is fully fortie , l●s●ening thence still lesser like a horne .

(5) The ancient Inhabitants knowne to the Romans , were the Danmonij , that spread themselues 〈◊〉 into Deuonshire also , by the report of Diodorus Siculus , a most courteous and ciuill people : and by Mechael their Poet extolled for 〈◊〉 and strength of lim●●es : nor therein doth he take the libertie that Poets are allowed , to adde to the subiect whereof they write , but truly reporteth what we see by them performed , whom actiuitie surmount many other people .

When the Heathen Saxons had seated themselues in the best of this Land , and forced the Christian Britaines into these rockie parts , then did Cornwall abound in Saints , vnto whose honor most of the Churches were erected , by whose names they are yet knowne and called . To speake nothing of Vrsula that Counties Dukes daughter , with her company of canonized Virgin-Saints , that are now reputed but to trouble the Calendar . These Britaines in Cornwall so fenced the Countrey , and defended themselues , that to the raigne of King Athelstant they held out against the Saxons , who subduing those Western Parts , made Tamar the Bounder betwixt them and his English , whose last Earle of the British Bloud was called Candorus .

(6) But William the Bastard created Robert ( his halfe-brother by Herlotta their mother ) the first Earle of the Normans race : and Edward the Blacke Prince , the ninth from him , was by his Father King Edward the third inuested the first Duke of Cornwall , which Title euer since hath continued in the Crowne .

(7) The commodities of this Shire , ministred both by Sea and Soile , are many and great ; for besides the abundance of Fish that doe suffice the Inhabitants , the Pilchard is taken , who in great skuls swarme about the Coast , whence being transported to France , Spaine , and Italie . yeeld a yearely reuenew of gaine vnto Cornwall : wherein also Copper and Tinne so plentifully grow in the vtmost part of this Promontory , that at a low water the veynes thereof lie bare , and are seene : and what gaine that commoditie begets , is vulgarly knowne . Neither are these Rockes destitute of Gold nor Siluer , yea and Diamonds shaped and pointed Angle-wise , and smoothed by Nature her selfe , whereof some are as bigge as Walnuts , inferiour to the Orient onely in blacknesse and hardnesse .

Many are the Ports , Bayes , and Hauens that open into this Shire , both safe for arriuage , and commodious transport ; whereof Falmouth is so copious , that an hundred Ships may therein ride at Anchor apart by themselues , so that from the tops of their highest Masts , they shall not see each other , and lie most safely vnder the winds .

(8) This Countie is fruitfull in Corne , Cattle , Sea-fish , and Fowle : all which , with other prouisions for pleasures and life , are traded thorow twentie-two Market-Townes in this Shire , whereof Launston and Bodman are the best ; from which last , being the middle of the Shire , the Pole is eleuated to the degree of Latitude 50 ▪ 35. minutes , and for Longitude from the first West point , 15. 13. minutes , as Mercator hath measured them .

(9) Memorable matters both for antiquitie and strangenesse of sight , are these : At Boske●●● vpon the South-west of her Promontorie , is a Trophy erected , which are eighteene Stones placed round in compasse , and pitched twelue foot each from others , with another farre bigger in the very center . These doe shew some Victory there attained , either by the Romans , or els King Athelstane . At the foot of the Rockes neere vnto S. Michaels Mount , in the memory of our fathers , were digged vp Speare-heads , Axes , and Swords of Brasse , wrapped in linnen , the weapons that the Cimbrians and ancient Britaines anciently vsed .

At Camelford likewise peices of Armours both for horse and man , are many times found in digging of the ground , imputed to be the signes of that fight wherein Mordred was slaine , and wherein great Arthur receiued his deaths wound . And at Cas●le-Dennys are the Trenches wherein the Danes lodged when they first minded to subdue the Land , In the Parish S Clare , two stones are pitched , one of them inscribed with a strange Character , and the other called the other halfe stone The Hurlers also , fabuled to be men metamorphosed into stones ; but in truth shew a note of some Victory , or else are so set for Land-markes Bounders . There also the Wring-cheese doth shew it selfe , which are huge Rockes heaped one vpon another , and the lowest of them the least , fashioned like a Cheese , lying pressed vnder the rest of those Hils , which seemeth very dangerous to be passed vnder 〈◊〉 neere to Pensans , and vnto Mounts-bay , a fa●●e more strange Rocke standeth , namely , Main Amber , which lyeth mounted vpon others of meaner size , with so equall a counterpoize , that a man may moue it with the push of his finger , but no strength remoue it out of his place .

( 10 ) Religious houses built , and suppressed within the limits of Cornwall , the fairest and greatest for account , were Launston , S. Neotes , S. Buriens , S. Michaels Mount , and S. Germans a Bishop● See : so was Bodman also , from whence King Edward the Confessor remoued it vnto the Citie of Encester .

SVMMERSET-SHIRE . CHAPTER XI .

SWMMERSET-SHIRE is both a rich and spacious Countrey , hauing the Seuerne Sea beating vpon it on the North-side , the South part bordering vpon Deuon and Dorset shires , the West confined with Deuon-shire , and the East and North-East vpon Wiltshire , and Gloucester-shire . It tooke the name of Sommerton ( sometime the chiefe Towne of this Shire ) whence in the ancient Historian Asserius , this Countie is called Sommertunensis , that is , Sommertun-shire .

(2) The forme thereof is large , bearing it selfe still wider as it stretcheth into the middle part thereof , and containes in length from Brackley neere vnto Frome-Selwood Eastward , to Oure in the West , Miles 55. In breadth from Porshut point in the North , to Chard Southward , is somewhat aboue fortie miles . The whole circumference is about 204. miles .

(3) The ayre is milde and pleasing , and for the most part subiect to such temperate dispositions as the Sommer-season affordeth , whence some haue erroniously conceited , that the Region borrowed her name from the nature of her Clime : yet how delightefull so euer it is in the time of Sommer , with change of the season it may well change her pleasing name , and borrow some Winterly denomination ; so full of wet , so myrie and moorish it is ; in so much as the Inhabitants can hardly trauell to and fro without their great encumbrance .

(4) Howbeit they passe ouer this with all patience , knowing their ensuing seasonable profits farre to exceede any present detriments and displeasures : for as it is foule , so it is fruitfull , which makes them comfort themselues with this Prouerbe , that What is worst for the Rider , is best for the Abider : the Soyle and Globe thereof being very fertile , and euery side garnished with Pastures and delightfull Meadowes , and beautified with Mannor houses both many and fayre ; and ( in a word ) hath euery thing in it to content the purse , the heart , the eye , at home : and sufficient Ports to giue entertainment to commodities from abroad .

(5) The ancient Inhabitants that possessed this Prouince were the Belgae , who spread themselues farre and wide , as well here as in Wiltshire , and the inner parts of Hamshire : who being branched from the Germans , conferred the names of those places from whence they came , vpon these their seats where they resided .

(6) The generall profits of this Prouince are Corne and Cattle , wherewith it is so plentifully stored , as it may challenge any neighbouring Country for the quantitie to make shew of Cattle so fat , or Graine so rich . Some places are peculiarly enriched by Lead-mines , as Mindiphiis , ( perchance so called of the deepe Mynes ) by Leiland aptly tearmed Minerarij , Minerall-hils , which yeeld plenty of Lead , the most Merchantable Commoditie that is in England , and vented into all parts of the world Some are beautified with Diamons , as S Vincent Rocke , whereof there is great plentie , and so bright of colour , as they might equalize Indian Diamonds , if they had their hardnesse yet being so many and so common , they are lesse sought after or commended

(7) This Country is famoused by three Cities , Bath , Wels , and Bristow The first takes name of the hot Bathes , which Antonine called Aqua Solis , The waters of of the Sunne ; Stephanus , Badiza ; we at this day Bathe , and the Latinists Bathonia : a place of continuall concourse for persons of all degrees , and almost of all diseases , ( whence it was sometimes called Ak●man cester ) who by diuine prouidence doe very often finde reliefe there , the Springs thereof by reason of their Minerall and sulphurous passage , being of such exceeding power and medicinable heat , as that they cure and conquer the rebellious stubbornnesse of corrupt humors , in respect of which admirable vertues , some haue fabled , that they were first conuayed by Magicke Art . To testifie the antiquitie of this place , m●ny Images and Romane Inscriptions are found in the walles , which can now be hardly read , they are so worne and eaten into by age . Wels ( as Leiland reporteth ) was sometimes called Theodorodunum , but from whence it had that denomination he makes no mention : The name it now beareth is taken ( as some thinke ) from the Riuer there , which King Kinewulph in his Charter An 766. calleth Welwe , or ( as others ) from the Wel● or Springs which there breake forth , and whereupon that See ( vnder whose Iurisdiction is also the Citie of Bath ) hath beene anciently called Pontanensis Ecclesi● , the Fountaine-Church : where the Cathedrall built by King Inas to the memory of S. Andrew , is very beautifull and richly endowed . The Citie is likewise well replenished both with Inhabitants and seemly buildings . Whose gouernment is managed by a Major yearely elected , a Recorder , and seuen Maisters , hauing the assistance of sixteene Burgesses , a Towne-Clerke , and two Sergeants at Mace . Whose Latitude is 51. 20. minutes , and Longitude 17. 31. minutes . Bristow is not so ancient , as it is faire and well seated : The beautie of it being such , as for the bignesse thereof , it scarce giues place to any Citie of England , and doth worthily deserue the Saxon name Bright-stad : whose pleasantnesse is the more , by reason that the Riuer Auon scowres through the midst of it , which together with the benefit of Sewes vnder all the streets , cleares the Citie of all noysome filth and vncleannesse . It is not wholly seated in this Countie of Sommerset , but one part thereof in Gloucestershire but because it is an entire Countie of it selfe , it denyes subiection vnto eyther , hauing for its owne gouernment both a Bishop , with a well furnished Colledge , and a Major , with a competent assistance of Aldermen , and other Officers for Ciuill affaires .

(8) This Prouince hath beene the Theater of many Tragicall euents and bloudy Battels : the Danes did grieuously afflict Porlock by cruell Piracies , in the yeare eight hundred eight●e sixe . Yet neere vnto Pen a little village ●eighbouring vpon North Cadbury , Edmund , surnamed Iron-side , gaue them a notable soyle , as he was pursuing Ca●●tus from place to place , for vsurping the Crowne of England . And Keniwalth ( a West-Saxon ) in the same place had such a day against the ●ritaines , that they euer after stood in awe of the English-Saxons prowesse . Marianus relateth that not farre from Bridge-water as the D●●es were stragling abroad , Ealstan Bishop of Sherbourne did so foyle their Forces in the yeare 845 as their minds were much discomfited , and their powers vtterly disabled . Ni●ius also writeth , that King Arthur did so defeat the English-Saxons in a battell at Cadbury , that it deserued to be made perpetuously memorable . Neither is Mo●s Badonicus ( now Bannesdowne ) lesse famous for Arthurs victories . And King Elfred in another battell not farre from hence gaue the Danes such an ouerthrow , as he forced them to submission , and induced Godrus their King to become a Christian , himselfe being God-father to him at the ●ont . So happie is this Region , and so beholding to Nature and Art for her strengths and fortifications , as she hath alwayes beeene able to defend her selfe , and offend her enemies .

(9) Neither hath it beene lesse honoured with beauteous houses consecrated to Religion : such was that of Black-Charons at Barelinch in the first limit of this Shire Westward : and King Athelstan built a Monastery in an Iland called Muchelney ( that is to say ) the great Iland , which is betweene the Riuers Iuel and Pedred , running together , where the defaced walles and ruines thereof are yet to be seene King Henry the third also erected a Nunnery at Witham , which was afterwards the first house of the Carthusian Monkes in England , as Hin●●n not far off was the second . But aboue all other for antiquitie , glory , and beautie was the Abbey of Glaste●bury , whose beginning is fetcht euen from Ioseph of A ●●athea , which Deni Bishop of S. Dauids repaired , being fallen to ruine , and King Inas lastly builded a fayre and stately Church in this Monastery , though it be now made euen with the ground , the ruines onely shewing how great and magnificant a Seat it hath anciently beene ; which seuerall houses were thus beautified by bounteous Princes , for religious purposes , and to retire the mind from worldly seruices , though blinded times and guides diuerted them to superstitious and lewd abuses .

( 10 ) Other memorable places are these , Camal●t a very steepe hill hard to be ascended which appeares to haue beene a worke of the Romans by diuers Coynes digd vp there , on the top whereof are seene the lineaments of a large and ancient Castle , which the Inhabitants report to haue beene the Palace of King Arthur . Ilchester , which at the comming of the Normans was so populou● , that it had in it an hundred and seuen Burges●es , and it appeares to be of great antiquitie by the Romane Caesars Coynes , oftentimes sound there . The Church yard of Aualonia or Glastenbury , wh●re King Arthurs Sepulcher was searcht for by the command of King Henry the second , which was found vnder a stone , with an Inscription vpon it fastned , almost nine foote in the ground . Also Dunstere , where ( as is reported ) a great Lady obtained of her husband so much Pasture ground in common by the Towne side , for the good and benefit of the Inhabitants , as she was able in a whole day to goe about bare-foote .

WILT-SHIRE . CHAPTER XII .

WILT-SHIRE , is enclosed vpon the Northwith Glocester-shire , vpon the East is bounded with Bark-shire , vpon the South with Dorset and Hampshire , and vpon the West is confronted against partly by Glocester , and the rest by Somerset shires .

(2) The forme thereof ●s both long and broad ; for from Inglesham vpon Thamisis in the North , to Burgat Damarum in the South , are thirtie nine miles : the broadest part is from Bu●termer Eastward , to the Shire-stones in the West , being twentie nine ; the whole in Circumference is one hundred thirtie nine miles .

(3) For Ayre , it is seated in a temperate Climate , both sweet , pleasant , and wholesome ; and for soile ( saith Iohn of Sarisbury ) is exceeding fertile and plentifull , yea , and that with va●ietie .

(4) The Northerne part which they call North Wilt shire , riseth vp into delectable hilles , attired with large Woods , and watered with cleare Riuers , whereof Isis is one , which soone becommeth the most famous in the Land . The South part is more euen , yeelding abundently grasse and corne ; and is made the more fruitfull by the Riuers Wily , Adder , and Au●n . The midst of this Countie is most plaine , and thereby is knowne and commonly called Salesbury 〈◊〉 , and lie so leuall indeed , that it doth limit the Horizon : or hardly can a man see from the one side to the other . These Plaines grase an infinite number of sheepe , whose fleeces and flesh bring in an yearely reuenew to their owners .

(5) Anciently this Countie was possessed by the Belga , who are seated by Ptolemie in Hampshire , Somerset shire , and in this Tract ; and they ( as it seemeth by Casar ) were of the Belga in Gaul These ( as some hold ) were subdued by Vespasian , Lieutenant of the second Legion under Claudius , when the foundations of his future greatnesse were in these parts first laid by his many Victories ouer the Britaines . And herein surely the Romans seated ; for besides Yan●sburie Trench , by Tradition held to be his , in many other Forts in this Shire the Tract of their footing hath beene left , and the stamped Coines of their Emperours found , an apparent testimony of their abode .

(6) After them the West-Saxons made it a part of their Kingdome , whole border was Auon , as witnesseth Athelward , though the Mercians many times encroched vpon them , whereby many great Battles , as Malmesbury tels vs , betwixt them were fought , when in the young yeares of their Heptarchie each sought to enlarge his , by the lessening of the next : but growne vnto more ripenesse , they assigned their limits by a great and long ditch crossing thorow the middest of these Plaines , which for the wonder thereof is supposed by the vulgar to be the worke of the Deuill , and is called of all , Wansdike , vndoubtedly of Woden , the Saxons Ancestor and great reputed God , where a little village yet standeth , and retaineth to name Wodens-burg At this place , in Anno 590. Ceaulin the West-Saxon , receiued such a foyle of the Britaines and his Countrey-men , that he was forced to forsake his Kingdome , and to end his dayes in exile , becomming a pittifull spectacle euen vnto his enemies . And in this place Ina the West-Saxon joyned Battle with Ceolred the Mercian , whence both of them departed with equall losse . The like was at Bradford by Ke●●lwach and Cuthred ; at Wilton , betwixt Egbert and Beornwolfe ; at Edindon , where King Elfred was vanquisher of the Danes ; and at Wilton , where the Danes wonne the day against him . With as bloudy successe , though not happening by sword , was the issue of that Synod assembled at Colne , a small Towne in this Countie , in the yeare of Christ Iesus 977 where being hotly debating for the single life , and against the marriages of the Clergie , what wanted by the Word to proue their diuorce , was supplyed by a Stratagem , and that very bloudy ; for suddenly the maine timber brake , and downe fell the floore with the Nobles and Prelates , the Gentlemen and Commons , whereby a great number were hurt , and many more slaine ; onely Dunstan the President and mouth for the Monkes , escaped vntouched , the Ioist whereon his Chaire stood remaining most firme : which confirmed the sentence of their separations , whom God had conioyned , and became the fall and snare of much incontinencie in both sexes .

(7) The chiefest Citie of this Shire is Salesburie , remoued from a higher , but a farre more conuenient place ; whose want of water was not so great in the mother , as is supplied and replenished in the daughter , euery street almost hauing a Riuer running thorow her middest ; and for sumptuous and delicate buildings , is inferiour to none . The Cathedrall , a most rich magnificent Church , was begun by Richard Poore , Bishop , and with fortie yeares continuante was raised to her perfect beautie : wherein are as many windowes as there are dayes in the yeare , as many cast pillars of Marble , as there are houres in the yeare , and as many gates for entrance as there are moneths in the yeare . Neither doth this Citie retaine true honour to her selfe , but imparteth hers , and receiueth honour from others , who are intituled Earles of Salesburie , whereof eight noble Families haue beene dignified since the Normans C●●quest . This Cities situation is in the degree of Latitude 51. 10 minutes , and from the first West point obserued by Mercator , 18 Degrees , and 31. minutes of Longitude .

(8) Ouer this , old Salesburie sheweth it selfe , where K●n●●k ouercame the Britaines , and where Canutus the Dane did great dammage by fire . This formerly had beene the Seat of the Romans : as likewise was Lecham , as by their Coines digged vp is apparant : so were Brokenbridge and Cosham , the Courts of the Saxon Kings But Fortune long since hath turned her face from all these , as lately she did from many ancient and religious foundations planted in this Prouince , whereof Mal●●esburie was the most famous I will not with Monmouth auouch the foundation thereof vnto Mulmutius , but by true Records from Maidulph a Scot , a man of great learning , that therein built a Cell , and lead an Hermits life , whereof Beda calleth it the Citie of Maidulph , and we by contraction , Malmesburie , Adelme his Disciple and Successor , built here a faire Monastery , which Athelstan the Monarch richly endowed , and left his body after death there to rest . Neither hath any graced this more then William her Monke , in recording to posterities the Chronicles of our Land , concerning both the Church and Common-weale , wherein himselfe liued and wrote those Histories .

(9) Ambresburie for repute did second this , built by A●fritha , King Edgar his wife , to expiate the sinne of murder which she committed vpon yong Edward her sonne in law , that hers might be King . In this place Queene Eleanor , widow to King Henry the third , renounced all royall pompe , and deuoted her selfe vnto God in the habit of a Nunne . Other places erected for pietie , were at Salesburie , Lacock , Stanley , Wilton , Luichurch , Farnleg , Bradstole , Briopune , and Brombore . These grafts growne to full greatnesse , were cut downe by the Pruiner , least the cankers thereof should infect the whole body ( as by them was alledged ) and their Reuenewes bestowed vpon farre better vses , both for the bringing vp of youth , and the maintenance of estate .

BARK-SHIRE . CHAPTER XIII .

BARK-SHIRE , whether of the Eo●-woods there sited , according to the censure of Asserius Meneuensis , or from a naked and beare-lesse Oke-tree , whereunto the people vsually resorted in troublesome times , to conferte for the State , I determine not : onely the Countie a long time hath beene so called , and bounded with other in manner as followeth : The North-part is parted by Thamisis from Buckingham and Oxford-shires ; the South neere Kennet doth tract vpon Hampshire ; the East is confined with the Countie of Surrey ; and the West with Wiltshire and Glocestershire is held in .

(2) The forme of this Shire doth somewhat resemble a Sandall for a mans foot , lying long-wise from East to West , in which part she is broadest , the middle most narrow , and then spreading wider like to the heele : though for her rich endowments and stately magnificence , it may be well accounted the heart of the whole .

(3) The length thereof from Inglesham in the West , to old Windsor in the East , extendeth vnto fortie miles ; from Inkpen to Wightham , the broadest part from South to North are twentie-foure ; the whole in Circumference , about one hundred and twentie miles .

(4) The Ayre is temperate , sweet , and delightfull , and prospect for pleasure inferiour to none ; the Soile is plenteous of corne , especially in the Vale of White-horse , that yeeldeth yearely an admirable encrease . In a word , for Corne and Cattle , Waters , and Woods , of profit and pleasure , it giues place vnto none .

(5) Her ancient Inhabitants , by Ptolemie and Caesar , were the Attrebat● , and them of those that descended from Gallia , among whom Comius ( conquered by the Dictator ) was of good respect , and could doe much with the Britaines , who ( as Frontinus reporteth ) vsed this stratagem , though it proued nothing at last : he flying before Caesar to recouer ayd of these Attrebatians , light bedded vpon a shelfe in the Sea , whereupon hoysting his sailes as before a fore-winde , gaue shew to his pursuer that they were in swift flight ; so that hopelesse to hayle them , he gaue ouer the chase : yet no sooner had Caesar made ouer among them , but that some of these people , by name the Bibroces , yeelded him subiection , which prued the ruine of all former libertie But when the Romans had rent their owne Empire , and retired their Legion into a narrower circuit , the Sa●●ns set foot where their forces had beene , and made this Countie a parcell of their Westerne Kingdome .

The Danes then setting their desire vpon spoiles , from their ●oauing Pinnaces pierced into these parts , and at Redding fortified themselues betwixt the Riuers Kennet and Tham●●sis , whither after their great ouerthrow receiued at Inge●efield by the hand of King Ethelwolfe , they retyred for their further safetie .

(6) This Towne King Henry the first most stately beautified with a rich Monastery and strong Castle , where , in the Collegiate Church of the Abbey , himselfe and Queene ( who lay both veiled and crowned ) with their daughter Maud the Empresse , called the Lady of England , were interred , as the priuate History of the place auoucheth , though others bestow the bodies of these two Queenes else-where . The Castle King Henry the second razed to the ground , because it was the refuge for the followers of King Stephen From whence the North-pole is raised in Latitude 51 degrees and 40 minutes , and in Longitude from the first West-point obserued by Mercator 19 degrees and 35. minutes .

(7) A Castle and Towne of greater strength and antiquitie was Wallingford , by Antonie and Ptolemie called Galtena , the chiefest Citie of the Attribatians , whose large circuit , and strong fortifications , shew plainly , that it was a place of the Romans abode , and since in a conceiued safetie hath made many very bold , especially when the sparkes of Englands ciuill dissentions were forced to flame in case of the Crowne betwixt Maud the Empresse and King Stephen , whither her selfe and associates resorted as their surest defence .

(8) But of farre greater magnificence and state is the Castle of Windsor , a most Princely Palace and Mansion of his Maiestie . I will not with Ieffrey affirme it to be built by King Arthur , but with better authoritie say , it was so thirsted after by the Conquerour , that by a composition with the Abbat of Westminster , whose then it was , he made it to be the Kings Possession , as a Place besides the pleasures , very commodious to entertaine the King In this Castle that victorious Prince King Edward the third was borne ; and herein after he had subdued the French and Scots , held he at one and the same time , as his Prisoners , Iohn King of France , and Dauid King of Scotland Neither was it euer graced with greater Maiestie then by the institution of the most honourable Order of the Garter , a signall Ornament of Martiall Prowesse : the inuention thereof some ascribe to be from a Garter falling from his Queene , or rather from Ioan Countesse of Salisbury , a Lady of an incomparable beautie , as she danced before him , whereat the by-standers sm●●ing , he gaue the impresse to checke all euill conceits , and in golden Letters imbelished the Garter with this French Posie , HONI SOIT QVI MALY PENSE . And yet that worthy Clarenceaux alledging the booke of the first institution , findes the inuention to be more ancient , as when King Richard the first warred against the Turkes , Saracens , Cypres , and Acon , he girt the legs of certaine choise Knights with a tache of leather , which promised a future glory to the wearers . The most Princely Chappell thereof is graced with the bodies of those two great Kings , Henry the sixt , and Edward the fourth , whom the whole Kingdome was too little to containo , the one of Lancaster , the other of Yorke , where they rest now vnited in one mould , with a branch of both those Houses , euen King Henry the eight , who there lyeth also interred , and rests in the Lord .

(9) Other places of note in this Shire are Sinodum in the North , and Watham in the East , both of them places of the Romans residence , as by their monyes these oftentimes found appeareth . Neither was Sunning the least in this Tract , that had beene the Seat of eight Bishops before the See was translated thence vnto Shirburne , or that to Salisbury ▪ Wantage also is not wanting of honour , in bringing to life that learned and most valiant King Ealfred , the scourge of the Danes , and great Monarch of the English . And Finchhamsted for wonder inferiour to none , where ( as our Writers doe witnesse ) that in the yeare , a thousand one hundred , a Well boyled vp with streames of bloud , and fifteene dayes together continued that Spring , whose waters made red all others where they came , to the great amazement of the beholders .

( 10 ) The riches and sweet seats that this Country affordeth , made many deuout persons to shew their deuotions vnto true pietie , in erecting places for Gods diuine seruice , and their exemptions from all worldly businesse : such were Abington , Redding , Bysham , Bromehall , Hen●ey , Hamme , and Wallingford , whose V●tarie abusing the intents of their Founders , ouerthrew both their owne Orders and places of professions ; all which were dissolued by Act of Parliament , and giuen the King to dispose at his will .

MIDDLESEX . CHAPTER XIIII .

MIDDLESEX , so called in regard of the situation , as seated betwixt the West-Saxons and East-Angles , was sometimes , together with Essex and Hartford-shire , that part and portion which the East Saxons enioyed for their Kingdome : it lyeth bordered vpon the North with Hartford shire ; vpon the West by Colne , is seuered from Buckingham ; the South , by Thamesis from Surrey and Kent ; and on the East from Essex , by the Riuer Lea.

(2) The length thereof extended from 〈◊〉 in the East , to Morehall vpon Colne in the West , is by measure nineteene English miles ; and from South 〈◊〉 in the North , to his Majesties Mannour of Hampton-Court in the South , are little aboue sixteene miles , the whole Circumference extending to ninetie miles

(3) In fo●●e it is almost square , for ayre passing temperate , for soile abundantly fertile , and for pasturage and graine of all kindes yeelding the best , so that the Wheat of this Countie hath serued a long time for the manch●t to our Princes Table .

(4) It lyeth seated in a vale most wholesome and rich hauing some hils also , and them of good 〈◊〉 , from whose tops the prospect of the whole is seene like vnto Zoar in Egypt , or rather like a Paradise and Garden of God .

(5) The ancient Inhabitants knowne to Caesar , were the Trinobants , whom he nameth to be the most puissant in the Iland ; whose chiefe Citie and State yeelding him subiection , made the whole , with lesse losse to the Romans , to beare the yoke of their owne bondage , and to come in vnder termes of truce . But when their forces in these parts were spent , and the Empire shaken by intestine warres , the Saxons setting their eyes vpon so faire a soile , made their footing as sure herein ; which lastly with Hartford and Essex , was the portion of the East-Saxons Kingdome .

(6) Fiue Princely Houses , inheritable to the English Crowne , are seated in this Shire , which are , Enfield , Hanworth , White-hall , S. Iames , and Hampton-Court , a Citie rather in shew then the Palace of a Prince , and for stately Port and gorgeous building , not inferiour to any in Europe . At Thistleworth once stood the Palace of Richard King of the Romans , Earle of Cornewall , which the Lond●ner in a tumultuous broile , burned to the ground : many other stately Houses of our English Nobilitie , Knights , and Gentlemen , as also of the worshipfull Citizens of London , are in this Shire so sumptuously built and pleasantly seated , as the like in the like circuit are no where else to be found . Neere vnto Thamesis entrance into this Countie , is kept the remembrance of Caesars entrance ouer Thamesis , by the name of Coway-Stakes , stucke fast in the bottome to impeach his designes ; and further at Stanes a Maire-stone once stood for a marke of Iurisdiction , that London had so farre vpon Thamesis

(7) Which Citie is more ancient then any true record beareth , fabuled from Brute , Troynouant , from Lud , Ludstone : But by more credible Writers , Tacitus , Ptolemy , and Antonine , Londinium , by Aminian●● Mercellinus for her successiue prosperitie , Augusta , the greatest title that can be giuen to any : by Britaines , Londayn , by Strangers , Londra , and by vs London . This Citie doth shew as the Cedars among other trees , being the seat of the British Kings , the chamber of the English , the modell of the Land , and the Mart of the world : for thither are brought the silke of Asia , the spices from Africa , the Balmes from Grecia , and the riches of both the Indies East and West : no Citie standing so long in same , nor any for diuine and politicke gouernment may with her be compared Her walls were first set by great Constantine the first Christian Emperour , at the suit of his mother , Qu: Helen , reared with rough stone and British Bricke three English miles in compasse : thorow which are now made seauen most faire gates , besides three other passages for entrance . Along the Thamesis , this wall at first ranged and with two gates opened , the one Doure-gate , now Dowgate , and the other Billinsgate , a receptacle for Ships . In the midst of this wall was set a mile-marke ( as the like was in Rome ) from whence were measured their stations , for carriage or otherwise ; the same as yet standeth , and hath beene long knowne by the name of London Stone . Vpon the East of this Citie , the Church of S. Peters is thought to be the Cathedrall of Restitus , the Christians Bishops See , who liued in the raigne of Great Constantine ; but since S. Pauls in the West part , from the Temple of Diana , assumed that dignitie , whose greatnesse doth exceed any other at this day , and spires so high that twice it hath beene consumed by lightning from heauen . Besides this Cathedrall , God is honoured in one hundred twentie one Churches more in this Citie : that is , ninetie six within the wals ; sixteene without , but within the Liberties ; and nine more in her Suburbs ; and in F●z . Stephens time , thirteene Conuents of religious Orders . It is diuided into 26 Wards , gouerned by so many graue Aldermen , a Lord Maior , and two Sherifs , the yearely choice whereof was granted them by Patent from King Iohn ; in whose time also a Bridge of stone was made ouer Thames , vpon nineteene Arches , for length , breadth , beautie , and building , the like againe not found in the world .

(8) This London ( as it were ) disdaning bondage , hath set her selfe on each side , far without the walls , and hath lefther West-gate in the midst , from whence with continuall buildings ( still affecting greatnesse ) she hath continued her streets vnto a Kings Palace , and ioyned a second Citie to her selfe , famous for the Seat and Sepulchre of our Kings ; and for the Gates of Iustice , that termely there are opened , onely once a Bishops See , whose title died with the man . No walls are set about this Citie , and those of London are left , to shew rather what it was , then what it is : Whose Citizens , as the Lacedemonians did , doe impute their strength in their men , and not in their wals , how strong toeuer . Or else for their multitude , cannot be circulated , but ( as another Ierusalem ) is inhabited without walls , as Zachary said . The wealth of this Citie ( as Isay once spake of Nilus ) growes from the Reuenewes and haruest of her South-bounding Thames ; whose traffique for merchandizing , is like that of Tyrus , whereof Ezekiel speakes , and stands in abundance of Siluer , Iron , Tinne , and Lead , &c. And from London her channell is nauigable , straitned along with medowing borders , vntill she taketh her full libertie in the German Seas . Vpon this Thamesis the Ships of Tharsis seeme to ride , and the Nauy , that rightly is termed the Lady of the Sea , spreads her saile . Whence twice with luckie successe hath beene accomplished , the compassing of the vniuersall Globe . This Riuer , Canutus , laying siege against London , sought by digging to diuert , and before him the Danes had done great harmes in this Citie , yet was their State recouered by King Elfred , and the Riuer kept her olde course , notwithstanding that cost . In the times of the Normans , some ciuill broiles haue beene attempted in this Citie , as in the dayes of King Iohn , whereinto his Barons entred , and the Tower yeelded vnto Lewis . And againe , Wat Tyler herein committed outragious cruelties , but was worthily struck downe by the Maior and slaine in Smithfield . This Cities graduation for Latitude is the degree 51. 45. minutes , and in Longitude 20. degrees 39. minutes .

(9) In this Countie at Barnet , vpon Easter-day , a bloudy battell was fought , betwixt Henry the sixt and Edward the fourth , wherein were slaine one Marques , one Earle , three Lords , and with them ten thousand Englishmen .

ESSEX . CHAPTER XV.

ESSEX , by the Normans exsessa , and by the vulgar Essex ; is a Countie large in compasse , very populous , and nothing inferiour to the best of the Land .

(2) The ●orme thereof is somewhat Circular , excepting the East part , which shooteth her selfe with many Promontories into the Sea ; and from Horsey Iland to Haidon in the West , ( the broadest part of the Shire ) are by measure fortie miles ; and the length from East-Ha●● vpon Thamesis in the South , to S●urmere vpon the Riuer Stow in the North , are thirtie-fiue miles ; the whole in Circumference one hundred fortie sixe miles .

(3) It lyeth bounded vpon the North , with Suffolke and Cambridge-Shires , vpon the West with Hertford and Middlesex , vpon the South by Thamesis is parted from Kent , and the East-side thereof is altogether washed with the German Sea .

(4) The ayre is temperate and pleasant onely towards the waters somewhat aguish : the soile is rich and fruitfull , though in some places sandy and barren ; yet so that it neuer frustrates the husbandmans hopes , or fils not the hands of her haruest-labourers : but in some part so fertile , that after three yeares glebe of Saffron , the Land for 18. more , will yeeld plentie of Barley , without either dung or other fatning earth

(5) Her ancient Inhabitants knowne to the Romanes , were by Caesar called the Trinobants , of whom in the former Chapter we haue spoken , and in our History shall speake more at large . But this name perished with the age of the Empire , the Saxons presently framed a new ; and with Hertford and Middlesex made it their East-Saxons Kingdome , vntill that Egbert brought this and the whole into an entire and absolute Monarchy : the Daues after them laid so sore for this Prouince , that at ●eamfleet and Hauenet ( now Shobery ) they fortified most strongly ; and at Barklow , ( besides the hils mounted for their burials ) the Danewort with her red beryes , so plentifully grow , that it is held and accounted to spring from the bloud of the Danes which in that place was spilt , and the hearb as yet is called from them the Danes-bloud ; neither yet were they quelled to surcease that quarrell ; but at Ashdowne abode the Iron-side in fight , wherein so much bloud of the English was spilt , that Canutus their King in remorse conscience , built a Church in the place , to pacifie God for the sinnes of his people : But when the Normans had got the garland of the whole , many of their Nobles there seated themselues , whose posterities since , both there and else-where , are spread further abroad in the Realme .

(6) The Commodities that this Shire yeeldeth , are many and great , as of Woods , Corne , Cattle , Fish , Forests , and Saffron ; which last groweth with such gaine and increase vpon her North parts , that from a split cloue much like vnto Garlicke , a white blewish Flower shortly springeth , from whence fillets of Saffron are gathered before the Sunne , and dryed , are sold as spice with great gaine . From the Ilands Canuey , Mersey , Horsey , Northly , Osey , Wallot , and Foulnesse , great store of Fish and Fowle are daily gotten : and so from their Cattle haue they continuall increase , which men and boyes milke ; as well the Ewe as the Kine ; whereof they make great and thicke Cheese , sold abroad in the Land , and much thereof transported into other Countries . Their Oysters which we call Walfleete , the best in esteeme , and are thought from Pa●●●e to haue beene serued in the Romans Kitchins . But least we should exceed measure in commending , or the people repose their trust in the soyle ; behold what God can doe , to frustrate both in a moment , and that by his meanest creatures : for in our age and remembrance , the yeare of Christ 1581. an Army of Mice so ouer ranne the Marshes in Dengey Hundred , neere vnto South-minster in this Countie , that they shore the grasse to the very roots , and so tainted the same with their venemous teeth , that a great Murraine fell vpon the Cattle which grased thereon , to the great losse of their owners .

(7) The chiefest Citie for account at this day , in this Shire , is Colchester , built by Coilus the British Prince , one hundred twentie-foure yeares after the birth of our Sauiour Christi ( if he of Mo●mouth say true ) wherein his sonne Lucius , Helena , and Constantine , the first Christian King , Empresse , and Emperour in the world , were borne : which made Necham for Consiantine to sing as he did .

From Colchester there rose a Starre , The Rayes whereof gaue glorious light Throughout the world in climates farre , Great Constantine , Romes Emperour bright .

And the Romanes to the great honour of Helena inscribed her , Pi●ssima Venerabilis Augusta . But of these we shall be occasioned to speake more hereafter . This Citie is situated vpon the South of the Riuer Coln ; from whence it hath the name , and is walled about , raised vpon a high Trench of earth , though now much decayed , hauing six gates of entrance , and three posternes in the West wall , besides nine Watch-Towers for defence , and containeth in compasse 1980 paces ; wherein stand eight faire Churches , and two other without the walls , for Gods diuine seruice : S Tenants and the Blacke Fryers decayed in the Suburbs ; Mary Magdalins , the Nunnery , S Iohns , and the Cruched Fryers , all suppressed : within towards the East is mounted an old Castle , and elder ruines vpon a trench containing two Acres of ground , whereas yet may be seene the prouident care they had against all ensuing assaults .

The trade of this Towne standeth chiefly in making of Cloth and Baies , with Saies , and other like Stuffes daily inuented ; and is gouerned by two Bailiffes , twelue Aldermen , all wearing Scarlet ; a Recorder , a Towne-Clerke , and foure Sergeants at Mace . Whose position for Latitude is in the degree 52. 14. minutes ; and for Longitude , in the degree 21. and 50. minutes .

(8) Places of antiquitie and memorable note in this Countie , I obserue the most famous to be Camalodumum , by vs Maldon , which was the Royall Seat of Cunobel●● King of the Trino●antes , as by his money therein minted appeareth , about the time of our Sauiours birth : which Citie afterwards Claudius wonne from the Britaines , and therein placed a Colony of Souldiers , which were called Victricensis . This Citie Queene Boduo , in reuenge of her wrongs , raced to the ground , what time she stirred their people against Nero , with the slaughter of seuentie thousand of the Romanes . Of some later and lesser account was Ithanchester , now S. Peters vpon the wall , where the Forteuses with their Captaine kept , towards the declination of the Romane Empire . In the East Promontory of this Countie , in the Raigne of Richard the second , the teeth of a Giant were found ( if they were not of an Elephant ) of a marueilous size ( saith Raph Coggeshall ) and not farre thence , in the raigne of Elizabeth , more bones to the like wonder were digged vp .

(9) I purposely omit the message of a Pilgrim from S. Iohn Baptist , by whom he sent a Ring to King Edward Confessor ; for which cause his house tooke the name Hauering : seeing the Monkes of those times made no great daintie daily to forge matter for their owne aduantage : who in this Shire so swarmed that they had houses erected at Waltham , Pritlewell , Tiltey , Dun●ow , Leeye , Hatfeild Peuerell , Chelmesford , Coggeshall , Maldon , Earls . coln , Col●hester , S Osths , Saffron-Walden , Hatfield-Bradocke , and more , with great reuenewes thereto belonging ; all which felt the Axes and Hammers of destruction , when the rest of such foundations fell vnder the ●●●ile of King Henry the eight , who with Hezekiah brake downe all these Brazen Serpents .

SVFFOLKE . CHAPTER XVI .

SVFFOLKE , in regard of them which were seated in Norfolke , is a Country most plenteous and pleasant for habitation . It is separated from Norfolke , by the Riuers of the lesser Ouse , and Waueney , whose heads meet almost in the midst of her Verge , and that very neere together : the one taking course East , and the other full West , vpon which part Cambridge-shire doth wholly confront . The South side is seuered by Stoure from Essex , and the East together washed with the Germane Seas .

(2) The Ayre is good , sweet , and delectable , and in some parts , of some of our best Physitians , held to be the best in the Land : the Soile is rich , fruitfull , and with all things well replenished ; in a word , nothing wanting for pleasure of profit .

(3) The forme thereof is some what Cressant , shooting vp narrower into the North , and spreading wider towards the South , whose broadest part is about twentie miles : but from East to West much more ; for from Easton point ( the furthest of this Shire , yea of all Britaine into the Sea ) vnto great Ouse Riuer , her Westerne bounder , are fortie fiue miles , and the whole in circumference , about one hundred fortie sixe miles .

(4) Anciently this part of the Iland was possessed by the Iceni , who as it seemeth by Tacitus , ioyned in Amitie with the Romans , a mightie people ( saith he ) and neuer shaken with warres before the raigne of Claudius , but then by Ostorius were vanquished , though not without great slaughter of the Romans ; and in a Battle against them , M. Ostorius the sonne of the Generall , wonne great honour in sauing of a Roman Citizens life ; so ready were they to giue and receiue Honours to themselues , but sleightly to passe ouer , and to smoother farre greater exployts of the Britaines : which notwithstanding long in these parts they could not doe ; for the wrongs of the Icenians growing intolerable , who by the Romane Souldiers were put out of their rightfull possessions , their Princes accounted no better then Slaues , and their Queene whipped in most ignominious manner ; vnder Boduo they wrought their reuenge , as in the History ( Christ assisting ) shall be further related .

Next to these Icenians , were the Saxons that got their footing into these parts , and of them , this with Norfolke , Cambridge shire , and the I le of Ely , was made their East-Angles Kingdome ; though as it seemeth euer in subiection either to the Mercians , or to the Kings of Kent whose off-spring ending in S Edmund the Martyr , after the Danes had laid it most desolate , Edward the Elder subdued it vnto his West-Saxons Monarchy : and that likewise ending in King Edward the Confessor , many Noble Normans got their possessions in these parts , whose off-spring are plenteously replenished in this Shire to this day .

(5) The commodities of this Shire are many and great , whereof the chiefest consisteth in Corne , in Cattle , Cloth , Pasturage , Woods , Sea-fish and Fowle ; and as Abbo Floricensis hath depainted , this Countie is of a greene and passing fresh hue , pleasantly replenished with Orchards , Gardens and Groues● thus he described it aboue six hundred yeares since , and now we finde as he hath said ; to which we may adde their gaine from the Pa●le , whose Cheeses are traded not onely thorowout England , but into Germany , France , and Spaine , and are highly commended by Pantaleon the Physitian , both for colour and taste .

(6) And had Ipswich ( the onely eye of this Shire ) beene as fortunate in her Surname , as she is blessed with Commerce and buildings , she might 〈◊〉 haue borne the title of a Citie : neither ranked in the 〈…〉 and seat , doth equall most places of the Land be●●● 〈…〉 about , both by a Rampire of earth , mounted along her North and West parts , and places of entrance where gates haue stood ; which no doubt , by the Danes were cast downe , in the yeare of Iesus Christ 991. when they sacked with spoyle all these Sea-coasts : and againe in the yeare one thousand , laid the streets desolate , and the houses on heapes : yet afterwards recouering both breath and beautie , her buildings from St●ke-Church in the South , to Saint Margarets in the North , now containe 19●0 paces , and from S Helens in the East , to S. Matthewes Church in the West , are no lesse then 2120. full of streets plenteously inhabited , wherein are twelue Parish-Churches seated , besides them suppressed ; such were Christ-Church , S Georges , S. Iames , the White , the Blacke , and Gray Fryers ▪ The Site of this Towne is remoued from the Equator , vnto the degree 52. 25 minutes : and by Mercators obseruation , from the first West points 22. degrees , 9 minutes : and is yearely gouerned by two Bailiffes , and ten Port-men , all wearing Scarlet with twenty-foure of their Common-Councell in purple : a Recorder , a Towne-Clerke , fiue Sergeants , whereof one is for the Admiraltie , a Beadle , and Common Cryer , all in blew , with the Townes Armes on their Sleeue .

The other Eye of this shire is S. Edmund●bury . By Abbo the Royall Towne , wherein at the day-breake of the Saxons conuersion , Sigebert King of the East-Angles founded a Christian Church : and vpon the occasion of King Edmounds buriall ( who at Hoxon was shot to death ) hath beene euer since called S Edmunds-bury , where was built to his honour one of the fairest Monasteries in the world , begun by King Canute , much affrighted with the seeming appearance of that Martyrs Ghost , who to expiate the Sacrilegious impietie of his Father Suenus , enriched the place with many endowments , and offred vp his owne Crowne vpon the 〈◊〉 Martyrs Tombe . For the beautie and buildings of this Abbey and Towne , let Leyland for me declare : 〈…〉 finely seated , so delicately , vpon the easie ascent of an hill , 〈…〉 stately Abbey , either for reuenewes or incomparable 〈…〉 then a Monastery , so many Gates for entrance , and some of them brasse , so many Towers , and a most glorious Church , vpon which attend three others , standing all in the same Church-yard , all of them passing fine , and of a curious workmanship . Whose ruines lie in the dust , lamenting their fall , mouing the beholders to pietie their case .

Neere vnto this Towne a great Battle was fought by Robert Bossu , Earle of Leicester , against his Soueraigne King Henry the second : but was worthily ouercome by Richard Lucy , the Kings high Iustice , himselfe and wife taken , with many Flemings and Englishmen slaine .

(7) Other places worthy of remembrance this Countie affords ; such is Ex●ing in the West , formerly famous for the birth of S. Andrey , daughter to King Anna , one of the three names of the Shires diuision . Rendl●sham in the East , where Redwald the first Christian in this Kingdome held his Court : and Hadley in her South , where Guthrum the Dane whom Elfred baptized , was buried . And things of stranger note are the limits of the East-Angles Territories , running along New-market heath , vulgarly called the Diuels-ditch : the like fable is formally told by Nubrigensis , that at Wulpet in the heart of this Shire , two greene boyes of Satyres kinde arose out of the ground , from the Antipodes ; beleeue it if you will : and Ralfe Coggeshall in the Monuments of C●l●hester , declareth , that a Fish in all parts like a man was taken neere Orford , and for sixe moneths was kept in the Castle , whence after he escaped againe to the Sea .

As strange , but most true , was a crop of Pease , that without tillage or sowing grew in the Rockes , betwixt this Orford and Aldebrough , in the yeare 1555 when by vnseasonable weather a great dearth was in the Land : there in August were gathered aboue one hundred Quarters , and in blossoming remained as many more , where neuer grasse grew , or earth euer seene , but hard solide Rockes three yards deepe vnder their rootes .

(8) Places separated from common vse , and deuoted to God and his seruice by religious Princes , were at S. Edmunds , Ipswich , Ikleworth , Blithborow , Clare , Iaeston , Burgh Castle , wherein Sigebert King of the East-Angles entered the profession of a Monke : but was thence forced by his people , to fight against the Mercians : in which Battle he was slaine . And Dunwich , where Foelix founded his Episcopall See . These with many others in this Countie were suppressed in the fall of the Monasteries , and their Reuenewes assumed by King Henry the Eight .

NORTHFOLKE . CHAPTER XVII .

NORTHFOLKE is an Iland inclining to an ouall forme , closed on the South part with the Riuers of Waueney and the l●sser Ouse , which diuides it from Suffolke . On the East and North with the Germane Ocean ; on the West toward Cambridge-shire , with some branches of the greater Ouse ; toward Lincolne-shire with that part of the neue which passeth from Wisbitch into the Washes .

It containeth in length ( from Yarmouth to Wisbitch ) about fiftie miles ▪ In breadth ( from Thetford to Wels ) about thirtie . The whole Circuit is about two hundred fortie two miles .

The Name ariseth from the situation of the people , who being the Norther-most of the Kingdome of East-Angles , are therefore called the Northfolke , as the Souther-most of the Southfolke ▪

The Ayre is sharpe and piercing , especially in the Champion , and neere the Sea● therefore it delaieth the Spring and Haruest , the situation of the Country inclining thereto , as being vnder the 53. degree of Latitude .

The So●e diuers : about the Townes commonly good ; as Clay ; Chalke , or sa● earth , well watered , and with some wood : vpward to the Heaths naked , dry , and barren : Marsland and Flegg exceeding rich ; but Marsland properly for Pastere , Flegg for Corne.

(2) The parts from Thetford to Buruham , and thence Westward , as also along the Coast , be counted Champion : the rest ( as better furnished with woods ) Woodland . The Champion aboundeth with Corne , Sheepe , and Conies , and here in the barren Heaths ( as the prouidence of our Ancestors hath of old disposed them ) are very profitable . For on them principally lie our Fould courses , called of the Saxons ( whose institution they therefore seeme to be ) Paldyoeun , that is , Libertie of fold or fouldage . These Heaths by the Compasture of the sheepe ( which we call Tath : ) are made so rich with Corne , that when they fall to be sowne , they commonly match the fruitfullest grounds in other Countries and laid againe , doe long after yeeld a sweeter and more plentifull feed for sheepe : so that each of them maintaine other , and are the chiefest wealth of our Country . The Woodland ( fitter for grasse ) is maintained chiefly by feeding of Cattell , yet well stored with Corne and Sheepe .

The Coast is fortunate in Fish ▪ and hath many good Harbours , whereof Lenn and Yarmouth be the mother-ports , and of great traffique : Wels and Blakeney next in estimation .

The whole Countie aboundeth with Riuers and pleasant Springs , of which the Ouse is chiefest , by whose plentifull branches , the Isle of Fly , the Townes and Shires of Cambridge , Humington , and the Countie of Suffolke vent and receiue Commodities . The next is Hierus or Yere , passing from Norwich to Yarmouth , where it receiueth the Bure comming from Aylsham , both of them of great seruice for water-carriages , but very notable for their plenty of 〈◊〉 for some one man out of an hold vpon the Bure , hath drawne vp ordinarily once a yeare , betweene two Nets , about fiue or six score busness of Fish at one draught . The Waueney and the lesser Ouse are also Nauigable and of great vse . The residue I omit .

(3) I he people were anciently called ICENI , as they also of Suffolke , Cambridge-shire , and Huntington-shire , and supposed to be of them whom Caesar nameth Cenimagni ; Ptolemie , Simeni ; some T●gens . Their manners were likely to be as the rest of the Britaines , barbarous at those times , as appeareth by Caesar and Tacitus , Neither can I otherwise commend their Successors the Saxons : for so also their owne Countryman Ethelwerd termeth them . Since the entry of the Normans , they haue beene accounted ciuill and ingenious , apt to good Letters , adorning Religion with more Churches and Monasteries , then any Shire of England , and the Lawes and Seats of Iustice ( for many ages ) with some excellent men ; from whom most of our chiefe Families , and some of the greatest Nobility of the Kingdome , haue taken aduancement And herein is Northfolke fortunate , that as Crete boasted of an hundred Cities , so may she of an hundred Families of Gentlemen , neuer yet attainted of high Treason . How the gouernment of this Country was about Caesars time , is vncertaine , but ( agreeable no doubt to the rest of the Britaines ) vnder some peculiar Toparch or Regulus , as Tacitus termeth him . The latter Romans held it by two Garrisons , one at Gariannum neere Yarmouth ; the other at Branedunum , now called Brancastre , both of horse , and commanded by the Comes Maritims Tractus , as Marcellinus calleth him , termed after Comes Littoris Saexonici Vpon the entry of the Saxons , this Countie with Suffolke fell in the portion of the Angles , and about the yeare fiue hundred sixtie one , were together erected into a Kingdome by Vffa , of whom the succeeding Kings were tituled Vffines . But hauing suffred many Tempests of Fortune , it was in the yeare 870. vtterly wasted and extinct by Hungar and Hubba the Danes , who ouerthrew the vertuous King Edmund about Thetford , and after martyred him at S. Edmundsbury . Yet they did not long enioy it : for King Edward shortly recouered it from them , and annexed it to his other Kingdomes . The Danes notwithstanding inhabited abundantly in these parts , so that many of our Townes were founded by them , and a great part of our people and Gentry are risen out of their bloud .

(4) This Kingdome of East-Angles was after allotted to an Earledome of that name by William the Conquerour , who made Radulph a Britaine , marying his kinswoman , Earle thereof ; but gaue the greatest parts of this Countie about Wimondham , Keninghall , Lenn , Buruham , Fulmerstone , &c. to W. de Albany , Pincernae , and W de Warranna Forrestario , who to strengthen themselues ( according to the vse of that time ) with the homage and seruice of many tenants , diuided large portions of the same amongst their friends and followers ; so that most of the Manours and Lands in the parts aforesaid , were in those dayes either mediately or immediately holden of one of them . And as Northfolke and Suffolke were first vnited in a Kingdome , then in an Earledome , so they continued vnited in the Sheriffe-wicke till about the fifteenth yeare of Queene Elizabeth .

(5) The Townes here are commonly well built , and populous ; three of them being of that worth and qualitie , as no one Shire of England hath the like , Norwich , Lenn , and Yarmouth : to which for ancient reputation ( as hauing beene a seat of the Kings of East-Angles ) I may adde Thetford , knowne to Antonius , Ptolemie , and elder ages , by the name of Sitemagus , when the other three were yet in their infancie , and of no esteeme : for I accept not the Relations of the Antiquitie and State of Norwich in the time of the Britaine and Saxons , though Alexander Neuil hath well graced them . Her very name abridgeth her Antiquitie , as hauing no other in Histories but Norwich , which is meere Saxon or Danish , and signifieth the North-Towne or Castle . It seemeth to haue risen out of the decay of her neighbour Vinta , now called Castor , and as M. Cambden noteth , not to haue beene of mar●● before the entry of the Danes , who in the yeare 1004. vnder Sweno their Captaine , first sackt , and then burnt it , euen in her infancie ▪ Yet in the dayes of Edward the Confessor it recouered 1320. Burgesset . But maintaining the cause of Earle Radulph aforesaid against the Conquerour , they were by famine and sword wasted to 560 at which time the Earle escaping by ship , his wife vpon composition yeelded the Castle , and followed 〈◊〉 William Rusu● time it was growne famous for Merchandise and concourse of people ; so that Herbert then translating the Bishopricke from Thetford thither , made each of them an ornament to other . In varietie of times it felt much varietie of Fortune : By fire in Anno 1508. By extreame plagues , whereof one in An. 1348. was so outragious , as 17104. are reported to haue died thereof betweene the Calends of Ianuary and of Iuly . By misery of warre , as sacked and spoyled by the Earle of Flaunders and Hugh Big●d , Anno 1174. In yeelding to Lewis the French , against their naturall Lord King Iohn , Anno 1216. By the disinherited Barons , An. 1266. By tumult and insurrection betweene the Citizens and Church-men : once about the yeare 1265. which if Henry the third had not come in person to appease , the Citie was in hazard to be ruined : The second time in Anno 1446. for which the Major was deposed , and their Liberties for a while selfed . In Edward the sixths time , by Ketts rebellion , whose fury chiefly raged against this Citie . Since this it hath flourished with the blessings of Peace , Plentie , Wealth and Honour : so that Alxander Neu● doubteth not to preferre it aboue all the Cities of England , except London . It is situate vpon the Riuer Hierus , in a 〈◊〉 valley , but on using ground , hauing on the East the Hilles and Heath called Mussold for Most-would , as I take it . In the 17 yeare of King Stephen it was new founded , and made a Corporation ▪ In Edward the firsts time , closed with a same Wall , ●auing on a part that the Riuer defendeth . First gouerned by foure Bayliffes ; then by Henry the fourth in An 1403. erected into a Majoraltie and County ; the limits whereof now extend to Eatonb●●ge ▪ At this present it hath about thirtie Parishes , but in ancient time had many more .

(6) Lenn hauing beene an ancient Borrough vnder the Gouernment of a Bayliffe or Reue , called Praepositus , was by King Iohn in the sixt yeare of his Raigne made Liber Burgus , and ( besides the gift of his memorable Cup , which to this day honoureth this Corporation ) endowed with diuers faire Liberties . King Henry the third in the 17 yeare of his Raigne ( in recompence of their seruice against the out-lawed Barons in the Isle of Ely ) enlarged their Charter , and granted them further , to choose a Major Loco Prapositi : vnto whom King Henry the Eight , in the sixteenth yeare of his Raigne , added twelue Aldermen , a Recorder , and other Officers , and the bearing of a sword before the Major . But the Towne comming after to the same King , he in the twentie-ninth of his Raigne , changed their name , from Mator & Burge●ses Lenn Episcopi , to Mator & Burge●ses Lenn Regis .

(7) Yarmouth is the Key of the Coast , named and seated by the mouth of the Riuer Yere . Begun in the time of the V●nes , and by small accessions growing populous , made a Corporation vnder two Bayliffes by King Henry the third ▪ and by his Charter , about the fifteenth yeare of his Raigne , walled It ▪ It is an ancient member of the Ci●que Ports , very well built and fortified , hauing onely one Church ( but faire and large ) founded by Bishope Herbert , in William Rufus dayes . It maintaineth a Peere against the Sea , at the yearely charge of fiue hundred pound , or thereabout : yet hath it no possessions , as other Corporations , but like the children of Aeol●● and Thetis : Maria & 4. ventos , as an Inquisitor findeth An. 10. Hen 3. There is yearely in September the worthiest . Herring-fishing in Europe , which draweth great concourse of people , and maketh the Towne much the richer all the yeare , but very vnsauoury for the time . The Inhabitants are so curteous , as they haue long held a custome to feast all persons of worth , repairing to their Towne .

(8) The Bishopricke of Norwich had first hereseat at Dunwich in Suffolke , and was there begun by Foelix , who conuerted this Countie , and the East-Angles ) to the Faith . Being brought out of Burgundie by Sigeber● ( the first Christian King of the East-Angles ) he landed at Babingley by Lenn , and there builded the first Church of these Countries , which in his memory , is at this day called by his Name . The second he built at Shar●●bourn then of wood , and therefore called Stock-Chappell . After Foelix and three of his Successors , this Bishopricke was diuided into two Sees : the one with eleuen Bishops in succession , continuing at Dunwich ; the other with twelue at Elmham in Norfolke . Then vnited againe in the time of King Edwyn , the entire See for twelue other Bishops remained at Elmham , and in the Conquerours time was by his Chaplaine Arfastus ( being the thirteenth ) translated to Thetford , from thence by Herbert ( his next Successor saue one ) bought of W. Rusus for 1900. pounds , and brought to Norwich . This Herbert ( surnamed Losinga a Norman ) builded the Cathedrall Church there , and endowed it with large possessions . Not far from thence he also builded another Church to S. Leonard , a third at Elmham , a fourth at Lenn , ( S. Margarets , a very faire one ) and the fifth at Yarmouth before mentioned . By the Cathedrall Church he builded a Palace for the Bishops , and founded the Priory there ( now conuerted to Deane and Chapter ) and another Priory at Thetford . Since his time the Bishops See hath immoueably remained at Norwich , but the ancient Possession are seuered from it , and in lieu thereof the Abbey and Lands of S Benedict of Holme annexed to it . The Commodities of this Countie I haue contained in these four Verses .

Ingenio & populi cultu Norfolcia clari est ; Hinc fluvijs , illine Insula clausa mari ; Qua ratis , & vellus , frumenta , cuniculus , agnus . Lac scatet , & pisces , pabula , mella , crocus .

CAMBRIDGE-SHIRE . CHAPTER XVIII .

CAMBRIDGE-SHIRE , lyeth bounded vpon the North with Lincolneshire and Northfolke ; vpon the East with Norfolke and Suffolke ; vpon the South with Hartford-shire and Essex ; and vpon the West with Bedford and Huntington shires .

(2) This Prouince is not large , nor for ayre greatly to be liked , hauing the Fennes so spread vpon her North , that they infect the ayre far into the rest : From whose furthest point vnto Royston in the South , are thirtie-fiue miles ; but in the broadest is not fully twentie : the whole in Circumference , traced by the compasse of her many indents , one hundred twentie and eight miles .

(3) The Soile doth differ both in ayre and commodities ; the Fenny surcharged with waters : the South is Champion , and yeeldeth Corne in abundance , with Meadowing . Pastures vpon both the sides of the Riuer Came , which diuides that part of the Shire in the midst , vpon whose East-bancks the Muses haue built their most sacred Seat , where with plenteous increase they haue continued for these many hundred yeares .

(4) For from ancient Grantcester , Camboritum by Antonine , now famous Cambridge , the other brest and Nurse-mother of all pious literature , haue flowed full steames of the learned Sciences into all other parts of this Land , and else-where : ancient indeed , if their Story be rightly writ , that will haue it built by Cantaber a Spaniard , three hundred seauenty fiue yeares before the birth of our Sauiour , who thither first brought and planted the Muses . This Citie Grantcester by the tyranny of time lost both her owne beautie and her professed Athenian Students , so that in Bedaes dayes , seauen hundred yeares after the Word became flesh , it is described to lye a little desolate Citie , and as yet retaineth the name , without any memory of circuit by wals .

Of this Citie , in the yeare of Christ Iesus 141. as the Monke of Barton doth report , nine Scholars receiued their Baptisme , and became Preachers of the Gospell among the Britaines ; which ( as he saith ) happened in the Raigne of Hadriant the Emperour . But when the 〈◊〉 , Stors , His●nes and Saxons had laid all things waste , and with their sauage swords cut out the leaues of all ciuill learning , this as the rest yeelded to destruction , and so lay forlorne till the Saxons themselues became likewise ciuill ; when S●gebert the first Christian King of the East-Angles , from the example of France , whither he had beene banished , built Schooies in his Kingdome , and here at Grancester the chiefe , recalling thither the Professors of Arts and Sciences , as the Story recordeth , and Traditions doe hold .

But afterwards , as it seemeth , their increase being straightned , the Students complained ( as the Prophets did to Elisha ) that the place was too little for them to dwell in , therefore inlarging more North-ward , seated themselues neere vnto the Bridge , whereupon the place began to be called Grantbridge , though others from the crooked Riuer Came will haue it named Cambridge . This place ( though sacred and exempted from Mars , as Sylla once spake ; when he spared Athens , ) the Danes in their destructions regarded no whit , wherein they often wintered after their spoyles , and left the scatres of their sauage sores euer behinde them . And in the yeare 1010 when Suen in his fiercenesse bare downe all before him , this place was no place for Scholars to be in : Warres loud Alarums ill consorting the Muses milde Harmonies . Yet when the Normans had got the Garland on their heads , and these Danish stormes turned into Sun-shine dayes , Gislebert the Monke , with Odo , Terricus , and William , all three of the like Monasticall Profession , in the Raigne of King Henry the First , resorted vnto this place , and in a publike Barne read the Lectures of Grammar , Logicke , and Rhetoricke , and Gislebert Diuinitie vpon the Sabbath and Festiuall dayes . From this little fountaine ( saith Peter Blessensis ) grew a great Riuer , which made all England fruitfull , by the many Masters & Teachers proceeding out of Cambridge , as out of a holy Paradise of God . The first Colledge therein endowed with Possessions was Peter-house , built by Hugh Balsham Bishop of Ely , in the yeare of Grace , 1284. whose godly example many others followed , so that at this day there are sixteene most stately Colledges and Hals , for building , beautie , endowments , and store of Students so replenished , that vnlesse it be in her other Sister Oxford , the like are not found in all Europe .

But at what time it was made an Vniuersitie , let Robert de Remyngton tell you for me . Do the Raigne ( saith he ) of King Edward the first , Grantbridge , of a Schoole , by the Court of Rome , was made an Vniuersitie , such as Oxford is . Lastly , the Meridian Line cutting the Zenith ouer this Citie , is distant from the furthest West-poynt , according to Mercator , 20 degrees , 50 scruples , and the Arch of the same Meridian , lying betweene the Aequator and Verticall point , is 52. degrees , 20 scruples .

(5) Another Citie formerly in great fame is Elie , had in account for the repute and holinesse of Votary Nunnes there residing ; built first by Audrey wife to one Tombret a Prince in this Prouince , who had this place as a part of her Dowry : she hauing departed from her second Husband Egbert King of Northumberland deuoted her selfe to the seruice of God , and built here a Monastery , whereof she became the first Abbesse . This in the Danish desolations was destroyed , but soone after reedified by Ethelwold Bishop of Winchester , who stored it with Monkes ; vnto whom King Edgar granted the iurisdiction ouer foure Hundreds and a halfe , within these Fennes and the East-Angles limits , which to this day are called The Liberties of S. Audrey , after whose example many Nobles so enriched it with large Renexewes , that as Malmesbury saith , the Abbat thereof laid vp yeerely in his owne Coffers a thousand and foure hundred pounds And of latter times the Monkes thereof became so wealthy , that their old decayed Church they renued with new and most stately buildings , which is now the Cathedrall of the Diocesse , and for beautie giueth place to no other in the Land Eight other foundations set apart from secular vse in this Prouince , were at Thorney , Charteres , Denny , Elsey , Beach , Barnwell , Swasey , and Shengey , all which in the dayes of King Henry the eight came to the period of their surpassing wealth , and left their Lands to the dispose of his Will.

(6) The generall commoditie of this Shire is Corne , which in the South , and Champion-part doth abundantly grow , as also Saffron , a very rich Spice . Some Woods there are , and Pasture both pleasant and profitable . The North part thereof is Fenny , but withall fruitfull , whereof Henry of Huntington and William of Malinesbury thus doe write : This Fenny Country is passing rich and plenteous , yea , and beautifull also to behold , whereiwis so great store of fish , that strangers doe wonder , and water-fowle so cheape , that fiue men may therewith be satisfied with lesse then an halfe-penny .

(7) Places of ancient note in this Shire are these , the Erminstreet way , which vpon the lower West parts of this County , thorow Roisen , runneth forthright vnto Huntingdon . And from Reach a Market-Towne standing neere to the Riuer Came , a great Ditch and Trench is cast all along Newmarket-Heath , which for the wonder receiued thereat , is of the vulgar called The Deu●● Ditch , being in truth made for a defence against the Mercians by the East-Angles , whose Kingdome it inuerged . The Gogmagog Hils neere Cambridge retaine the remembrance of the Danish Siaetion , where as yet on their tops is seene a Rampior , strengthened with a three-fold Trench , whereof Goruase of Tillury tels vs many a pretio Tale.

HERTFORD-SHIRE . CHAPTER XIX .

HERTFORD-SHIRE is bordered vpon the North with Bedford and Cambridge-shires ; vpon the East , is altogether bounded by Essex ; vpon the South , is confined with Middlesex ; and her West butteth vpon Buckingham and Bedford-shires .

(2) The forme thereof is somwhat circular , with many indents to fetch in those Townes that are dispersedly stragled into her next Shire : whereof Roiston and Totteridge are the two extreames from North to South , betwixt whom in a strait drawne line are twenty seuen English miles , and from Putnam Westward , to Cheston Nunnery in the East , are twenty eight ; the whole circumference , about an hundred and thirtie miles .

(3) The ayre is temperate , sweet , and healthfull , as seated in a Climate neither too hot , nor too cold : the soile is rich , plenteous , and delightfull , yeelding abundance of Corne , Cattle , Wood , and Grasse , destitute of nothing that ministreth profit or pleasures for life , which are more augmented by the many Riuers that arise and run thorow this Shire , watering her owne and others , till they emptie themselues into the Sea .

(4) Her ancient Inhabitants in the time of the Romans were the Cattieuchlanians , or Cassijans , and the Trinobantes , as their Writers declare , and in the Heptar●hy was possessed by the East-Saxons , excepting some small portion thereof , that the Mercian Kings enioyned . The Danes also in their ouer-runnings , sought to stay themselues in this Shire , and at Ware ( then Weare ) pitched downe their rest and hope : for passing the Lea in their light Pinnaces and Shallops , raised therein a Fort , which maugre the English they kept , vntill that by the wise police of King Elfred , that Riuer was parted into to more running streames , whereby their Ships perished , and they intercepted both of prouision and farther supply .

(5) The Romans before them had made Verolaxium in this Shire their greatest for account , which in Neroes time was a Municipiall , as Nimus in his Catalogue of Cities doth call it , or as Tacitus , a Free Towne ; sacked by Boduo that euer eternized Queene of the Ictanians , when seuenty thousand of the Romans and Consecrates by her reuenging sword perished : the site and circuit whereof , in this Card we haue set according to our view and measure there taken : whose magnificence for Port and stately Architecture , were found by her large and arched Vaults in the dayes of King Edgar , which were digged into and cast downe by 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 , Abbots of S. Albanes , for that they were the receptacles and lurking holes of 〈◊〉 and 〈◊〉 : the ruines of which , haue raised the beautie of her suruiuing and faire S. Albanes , where 〈◊〉 the great Mercian , in great deuotion , built a most stately 〈◊〉 whose Church yet standing , retaineth the ashes of many Nobles , there slaine in the quarrell of Yorke and Lancaster ; and a Font of solid brasse brought out of Scotland by Sir Richara Lea , from the siege of L●eth

(6) Many other Townes , both for Commerce , stately Buildings , and of ancient Record , this Shire affordeth , whereof Hertford , though the Shire-Towne , is not the richest ; the passage thorow Ware hath left her wayes so vntrodden : to preuent which , in former times that Riuer at Ware was chained vp , and the Bayliffe of Hertford had the custody of the Key : which howsoeuer they haue lost , yet hath the Towne gotten her Gouernour to be preferred from the name of a Bilisse , vnto a Maior , assisted with nine Burg●sses , a Recorder , and two Sergeants their Attendants . Herein a Castle , for situation pleasant , for Trench , Walles , and Riuer , sufficiently fenced , was lately seene ; but marked to destinie , as the Towne to decay , hath found the hand of Fortune to ouermatch her strength , and to ruinate the Priory , S. Nicholas , and S. Maries Churches , besides a Cell of S. Albanes Monkes , that therein were seated . The like fate fals vnto Hemsled , and her faire Castle , wherein Richard King of the Romans left his life Yet Lingely is graced both in the birth of Prince Edmund the fifth sonne to King Edward the third , and the buriall of Richard the second that vnfortunate King , who in the Cell of Fryers Preachers was there first buried , but afterwards remooued and enshrined at Westminster . And in another Langley , neere the East from thence , was borne that Pontificall Break-speare , Bishop of Rome , knowne by the name of Hadrian the fourth , ( and famous for his stirrup-holding by Fredericke the Emperour ) whose breath was lastly stopped by a Flie that flew into his mouth .

(7) The ciuill Battles that in this Shire haue beene sought , in the Map it selfe are inserted , and therefore here omitted , but the more ancient remembred vnto vs by Osister-hill neere S. Albans , whom the judicious Combden supposeth to haue beene the Campe of Ostorius the second Lieutenant , and Subdue● of great Caractatus ; as also seuen small round Hils betwixt Sieuennedge and Ku●●worth , in which are supposed some Romane Souldiers to lie buried .

(8) Religious Houses built and suppressed , the chiefest for account in this Shire , were S. Albans , Ro●ston , Ware , Sopwell , Langeley , besides them at Hertford , whom Beda cals Horudford : which Cities graduation is distant and remoued from the Equator 52. degrees 5. minutes of Latitude , and set from the first point of the West , according to Mercator , in the 20 degree 29. minutes of Longitude . The ●●●domes whereof , were enioyed onely by tho●● two honourable 〈◊〉 whose atchieuements we haue also therein expressed .

BEDFORD-SHIRE . CHAPTER XX.

BEDFORD-SHIRE , seated in the South-East of this Iland , is a plaine and champion Country , and lyeth bounded vpon the North with Huntington-shire ; vpon the East with Cambridge and Hartford-shires ; vpon the South with Hartford and Buckingham-shires ; and vpon the West with Buckingham and Northampton-shires .

(2) The forme thereof is somwhat ouall , and not very large : for from Tilbroke in the North , vnto Stu●●am in the South , are but twentie-foure English miles ; and from Turny in the West , vnto Hatley Coking in the East , are not fully foureteene ; the whole in Circumference , about seauenty three miles .

(3) The Ayre is temperate , and the Soile bounteous , especially the North , whose Borders the fruitfull Ouse with her many windings watereth . The South is more leane , and with greater industry bringeth forth Barley , no better else-where . Generally , this County is Champion , though some places be sprinkled with Pasturage and Woods .

(4) The ancient Inhabitants knowne to the Romanes , that held in this Shire , were part of the Cattieuchlani , a stout and warre-strring people : and yet vpon the report of Caesars proceeding , sent him their subiection for peace . But when that conquering Nation had brought Britaine into a Prouince vnder Rome , their Legions lay at Selenae and Magintum , which are now Sandy and Dunstable , places of memorable note in this Shire . After them the Saxons coueting for so faire a Seate , first dispossessed the Britaines , vnder the leading of Cuthwulfe the West-Saxon , about the yeare of Grace 572. who making it their owne , was lastly enioyed by the Mercians , as a part of their Kingdome .

(5) In the yeare of Christs Incarnation 1399 immediately before those Ciuill Warres , that rent in pieces the peace of this Land , betweene the Princes of Lancaster and Yorke , the Riuer Ouse neere vnto Harwood , stood sodainly still , and refrained to passe any farther ; so that forward , men passed three miles together on foot in the very depth of her Channell ; and backward , the waters swelled vnto a great height : which was obserued by the judicious , to foretell some vnkinde diuision that shortly should arise .

(6) This Countie , among the common calamities of the Land , when it lay trampied vnder the fect of the Danes , sustained a part : and after that , in the time of King Stephen , when the Ciuill Warres thundred betwixt Maud the Empresse and himselfe , the Shire-Towne was sore wasted , with great slaughter of men : So when the Barons forsooke their allegeance to King Iohn , the Towne and Castle were rendred vp vnto their hands : and lastly , by King Henry the third , laid leuell euen with the ground , some ruinous walles appearing towards the Ouse , but not a stone left vpon the Mount where stood his foundation .

(7) This Towne by the Britaines was called Lettidur ; and of vs , Bedford : being the chiefest in the Countie , from whom it taketh the name , and is most fruitfull , and pleasantly seated , hauing the Ouse running thorow the Towne in the middest , and a faire Stone-bridge built ouer the same , whereon are two Gates to locke and impeach the passage , as occasion shall serue . At the first entrance standeth S. Leonards Hospitall for Lazars : and further inwards , S. Iohns and S. Maries Churches : within the Towne , S. Pauls , a most beautifull Church , S. Cuthberis , and S. Peters : without the Towne standeth the Fryers , S. Loyes , Alhallowes , and Caudwell Abbey : not farre whence sometimes stood a Chappell vpon the Banke of Ouse , wherein ( as Florilegus affirmeth ) the body of Offa the great Mercian King was interred , but by the ouer-swelling of that Riuer , was borne downe , and swallowed vp ; whose Tombe of Lead ( as it were some phantasticall thing ) appeared often to them that seeke it not , but to them that seeke it ( saith Rosse ) it is inuisible . This Towne is gouerned yearely by a Mator , two Bailiffes , two Chamberlaines , a Recorder , a towne-Clerke , and three Sergeants with Mases .

(8) A tale of vaine credit is reported of Dunstable , that it was built to bridle the outragiousnesse of a theefe named Dun , by King Henry the first : but certaine it is the place was formerly held by the Romanes , whose Legions there lay , as appeareth by the Coines there vsually found , which from Magmium are corruptly called Madning-money .

(9) Castles in this Shire are Woodhill , Eaton , Temsford , and Amphill , an honour now appertaining to the Crowne . And places of Religion , built by deuout persons , but for Idolatrous Abuses againe abolished , were at Bedford , Harwood , Helenflow , Newenham , Chicksand , Wardon , Woborne , and Dunstable . All these , with their like , felt the hand of Henry the Eight to lie so heauie vpon them , that they were not able to sustaine the waight , but were crushed to peices , and fell to the ground .

( 10 ) The Graduation of this Countie , taken for the Shire-Towne , is placed from the Equator in the degree of 52. and 30. minutes for Latitude , and is remoued from the first West point of Longitude , 20. degrees and 16. minutes .

BVCKINGHAM-SHIRE . CHAPTER XXI .

BVCKINGHAM , for the plentie of Beech-trees there growing , and those in the elder times of the Saxons called Eucken , may well be supposed from them to haue the name , as afterwards the whole Shire had hers from this Towne Buckingham .

(2) In forme it somewhat resembleth a Lyon Rampant , whose head or North-point toucheth the Counties of Northampton and Bedford ; whose backe or East-part is backed by Bedford and Hertford-shires : his loines or South-borders rest vpon Bark shire , and his breast the West side is butted vpon wholly by Oxford-shire The length thereof from Waisbury in the South , to Bradfeild in her North , are thirtie nine miles : the breadth at the broadest , from Ashridge in the East , to 〈◊〉 - wood Forrest in the West , are eighteene ; the whole in Circumference one hundred thirtie 〈◊〉 miles .

(3) The ayre is passing good , temperate , and pleasant , yeelding the body health , and the minde content . The soile is rich , fat , and fruitfull , giuing abundance of Corne , Grasse and Meate . It is chiefly diuided into two parts by the Chiltren billes , which run thorow this Shire in the middest , and before tim● where so postered with Be●●h , that they were altogether vnpassable , and became a receptacle and refuge for theeues , who daily endammaged the way-faring man ; for which cause 〈◊〉 Abbot of S. A●ba●s caused them to be cut downe : since when those parts are pa●●able , without any great incumbrances of trees ; from whose tops , a large and most pleasing prospect is 〈◊〉 ▪ The Vale beneath is plaine and champion , a clayie soile , stiffe , and tough , but withall marueilous 〈◊〉 full naked of woods , but abounding in medowes , pastures , and tillage , and maintaining an infinite number of sheepe , whose soft and fine fleeces are in great esteeme with the Turkes as farre as , Asia .

(4) The ancient Inhabitants that were seated in this Shire , were the Catlieuchlani , mentioned by Ptolemie , and them dispersed thorow the Tract of Bedford , Hertford , and this . These yeelded themselues with the first to Caesar vnder the Romanes subiection , whose ouer-worne Empire ending in Britaine , the Saxons by strong hand attained this Prouince , and made it a part of their Mercian Kingdome : yet was it first subdued vnto them by Cherdike the West-Saxon , whose memory is in part continued in the Towne Chersey , vpon the West of this Countie , where in a sharpe and bloudy battle he was Victor ouer the Britaines . So also Cuthwulfe a West-Saxon at Alesbury in the yeare of Grace 592. ouer came the Britaines , and bare downe all things before him : yet no sooner was their Hep●archie wained , and their Monarchie able to stand alone , but that the Danes , before their strength and growth was confirmed , waxed vpon them ; and they not able in so weake a hand to hold fast that weight of greatnesse they had so grasped , gaue place to their conquerours , who did many harmes in this Prouince : for in the yeare 914. the Danes furiously raged as farre as Brenwood , where they destroyed the City Burgh , the ancient seat of the Romanes , afterwards a royall house of King Edward the Confessor , which they vtterly destroyed .

(5) The Shire-Towne Buckingham , fruitfully seated vpon the Riuer Ouse , was fortified with a Rampire , and Sconses on both bankes , by King Edward the elder , saith Marianus the Scotish Writer ; where in the heart of the Towne hath stood a strong Castle , mounted vpon a high hill , which long since was brought to the period of her estate , now nothing remaining besides the signes , that there she had stood . The Riuer circulates this Towne on euery side , that onely on the North excepted , ouer which three faire stone-bridges lead , and into which the springs of a Well run , called S. Rumalds , a child-saint borne at Kings-Sutton , canonized , and in the Church of this Towne enshrined , with many conceited miracles and cures : such was the happe of those times , to produce Saints of all ages and sexes . This Towne is gouerned by a Bayliffe and twelue principall Burgesses ; and is in the degree remoued from the first point of the West for Longitude 19. 33. scruples , and the North-pole elenated in Latitude for the degree of 52. 18. scruples .

(6) A Towne of ancient note is Stony-Stratford , the Romans Lactorodum , being built vpon that ancient Causey-way which is called Watling-street , where remaine the markes thereof euen vnto this day At this place Edward the elder stopped the passage of the Danes , whiles he strengthened Torcester against them : and herein , King Edward the eldest since the Conquest , reared a beautifull Crosse in memory of Eleanor his dead Queene , as he did in euery place where her Corps rested , from Herdby in Lincolne-shire , till it was receiued and buried at Westminster .

(7) Places intended for Gods true worship , built by deuout persons , and sequestred from worldly imployments , were at Launden , Luffeld , Bidlesden , Bradwell , Nothey , Ankerne , Missenden , Tekeford , Partrendune , Ashridge , and Alesburie : Ashridge in great repute for the bloud ( supposed out of Christs sides ) brought out of Germany by Henry the eldest sonne of Richard King of the Romanes , and Earle of Cornwall , whereunto resorted great concourse of people for deuotion , and adoration thereof . But when the Sunne-shine of the Gospell had pierced thorow such clouds of darkenesse , it was perceiued apparantly to be onely hony clarified and coloured with Saffron , as was openly shewed at Pauls Crosse by the Bishop of Rochester , the twentie-fourth of Februarie , and yeare of Christ 1538. And Alesbury for the holinesse of S. Edith , was much frequented , who hauing this Towne allotted for her Dowrie , bad the world and her husband fa●ewell , in taking vpon her the veile of deuotion , and in that fruitfull age of Saints became greatly renowned , euen as farre as to the working of miracles . These all in the stormes and rage of the time , suffred such shipwracke , that from those turmoiled Seas , their merchandise light in the right of such Lords as made them their owne for wreacks indeed .

OXFORD-SHIRE . CHAPTER XXI .

OXFORD-SHIRE receiueth her name from that famous Vniuersitie and most beautifull Citie Oxford , and this of the Foord of Oxen , say our English-Saxons ; though Leiland vpon a ground of coniecture will haue it Ousford , from the Riuer Ouse ( by the Latines called Isis ) which giueth name likewise to the adioyning Iland Ousney . The North point of this Shire is bordered vpon by the Counties of Warwicke and Northampton , the East with Buckingham , the West by Glocester-shire , and the South altogether is parted from Bark-shire by Thamisis , the Prince of British Riuers .

(2) The blessings both of the sweet-breathing heauens , and the fruitfull site of this Counties soile , are so happie and fortunate , that hardly can besaid whether exceeds . The aire milde , temperate and delicate ; the Land fertile , pleasant , and bounteous ; in a word , both Heauen and Earth accorded to make the Inhabitants healthfull and happie : The hils loaden with woods and Cattle , the vallies burthened with Corne and Pasturage , by reason of many fresh springing Riuers which sportingly there-thorow make their passage , whereof England , Char●●ll , 〈◊〉 and Isis are chiefe : which two last making their Bed of Marriage 〈…〉 together in one channell and name .

(3) The length of this Shire is from Cleydon in the North-west , vnto 〈◊〉 in her South-East , neere vnto Thamisis , and amounteth almost to fortie miles ; the broadest part is in her westerne Borders , which extending from the said Cleydon in the North , vnto Faring●●● 〈…〉 the Riuer Isis in the South , are scarcely twentie sixe : and thence growing narrower 〈…〉 in Circumference about one hundred and thirtie miles .

(4) The ancient Inhabitants knowne to the Romans , were the Dobuni , part whereof possessed further Westernly into Glocester-shire , and nearer Eastward , betwixt the bowing of Thamises , were seated the Ancalites , who sent their submission vnto Iulius Caesar , when report was made that the Trinobantes had put themselues vnder his protection ; whereof followed the Britaines seruitude vnder the proud yoke of the all-coueting Romans : yet afterwards this Counties people , being very puissant ( as Tacitus termes them ) and vnshaken by warres , withstood Ostorius Scapula the Roman Lieutenant , choosing rather to yeeld their liues in battle , then their persons to subiection . Of latter times it was possessed by the Mercian Saxons , as part of their Kingdome , though sometimes both the West-Saxons and the Northumbrians had the dispose of some part thereof : for Beda affirmeth that K. Oswold gaue the then-flourishing Citie D●rchester vnto Berinus the West-Saxons Apostle , to be his Episcopall See : whence the good Bishop comming to Oxford , and preaching before Wulpherus the Mercian King ( in whose Court Athelwold the South-Saxons heathenish King was then present ) he with all his Nobles were conuerted to the faith of Christ , and there baptized , whereby Berinus became the Apostle also of the South Saxons .

(5) Otherplaces of memorable note either for actions therein happening , or for their owne famous esteeme , are the R●ll-rich-stones , standing neere vnto Enisham in the South of this Shire : a monument of huge stones , set round in compasse , in manner of the Stonch●nge : of which , fabulous tradition hath reported forsooth , that they were metamorphised from men , but in truth were there erected vpon some great victory obtained , either by , or against Rollo the Dane , who in the yeare 876. entred England , and in this Shire fought two Battles , one neere vnto Hoch-Norton , and a second at the Scier-Stane .

(6) Rod●os likewise remaineth as a monument of Oxfords high-stiled Barle , but vnfortunate Prince , Robert de Vere , who besides the Earledome , was created by King Richard the second , Marquesse of Dublin , and Duke of Ireland : but at that Bridge , discomfited in fight by the Nobles , and forced to swimme the Riuer , where began the downefall of his high mounted fortunes ; forbeing driuen forth of his Country , lastly died in exile and distressed estate . But more happie is this Countie in producing farre more glorious Princes , as King Edward the Confessor , who in Islip was borne ; Edward the victorious blacke Prince , in Woodstocke ; and in Oxford that warlike Coeur de Lion , King Richard the first , the sonne of King Henry the second , first tooke breath .

(7) Which Citie is , and long hath beene the glorious seat of the Muses , the British Athens , and learnings well-spring , from whose buing fountaine the wholesome waters of all good literature streaming plenteously , haue made fruitfull all other parts of this Realme , and gained glory amongst all Nations abroad . Antiquitie auoucheth , that this place was consecrated vnto the sacred Sciences in the time of the old Britaines , and that from Greeke-lad , a Towne in Wilt-shire , the Academie was translated vnto Oxford , as vnto a Plant-plot , both more pleasing and fruitfull : whereto accordeth the ancient Burlaus and Necham , this latter also alledging Merlin . But when the beautie of the Land lay vnder the Saxons prophane feete , it sustained a part of those common calamities , hauing little reserued to vphold its former glory , saue onely the famous monument of S. Frideswids Virgin Conquest , no other Schoole then left standing besides her Monasterie : yet those great blasts , together with other Danish stormes , being well blowne ouer , King Elfred , that learned and religious Monarch , recalled the exiled Muses to their sacred place , and built there three goodly Colledges for the studies of Diuinitie , Philosophie , and other Arts of humanitie , sending thither his owne sonne Ethelward , and drew thither the yong Nobles from all parts of his Kingdome . The first reader thereof was his supposed brother Neote , a man of great learning , by whose direction King Elfred was altogether guided in this his goodly foundation . At which time also , Asserius Meneuensis , a writer of those times affaires , read the Grammar and Rhetoricke , and affirmeth that long before them , G●●das , Melkin , Ninius , Kentigern , S. German , and others , spent there their liues in learned studies . From which time that it continued a Seed plot of learning till the Norman Conquest , ●ugul●us recordeth , who himselfe then liued . No maruell then if Matthew Paris calleth Oxford , the second Schoole of Christendome , and the very chiefe Pillar of the Catholike Church And in the Councell holden at Vienna , it was ordained , that in Paris , Oxford , Bononia , and Salamanca ( the onely Vniuersities then in Europe ) should be erected Schooles for the Hebrew , Greeke , Arabicke , and Chaldean tongues , and that Oxford should be the generall Vniuersitie for all England , Ireland , Scotland , and Wales : which point was likewise of such weight with the Councell of Constance , that from this precedent of Oxford Vniuersitie , it was concluded , that the English Nation was not onely to haue precedence of Spaine in all Generall Councels , but was also to be held equall with France it selfe . By which high prerogatiues this of ours hath alwayes so flourished , that in the dayes of King Henry the 〈◊〉 thirtie thousand Students were therein resident , as Archbishop Armachanus ( who then liued ) 〈◊〉 writ , and ●…ger ( then also liuing ) sheweth , that for all the ciuill warres which hindered such 〈◊〉 of quiet studie , yet 15000. Students were there remaining , whose names ( saith he ) were 〈◊〉 in matricula , in the matriculation booke . About which time . Iohn Baltol ( the father of Baltol King of Scots ) built a Colledge , yet bearing his name , Anno 1269. and Walter Merton Bishop of Rochester , that which is now called Merton Colledge ; both of them beautified with buildings , and enriched with lands , and were the first endowed Colledges for learning in all Christendome . And at this present 〈◊〉 sixteene Colledges ( besides another newly builded ) with eight Hals , and many most 〈…〉 Churches , all adorned with most stately buildings , and enriched with great endowments , noble Libraries , and most learned Graduates of all professions , that vnlesse it be her sister Cambridge , the other nursing breast of this Land , the like is not sound againe in the world . This Citie is also honoured with an Episcopall See . As for the site thereof , it is remoued from the Equator in the degree 52. and one minute , and from the West by Mercators measure , 19. degrees , and ●0 . minutes .

(8) As this Countie is happie in the possession of so famous an Academie , so is it graced with most Princely Palaces appertaining to the English Crowne , whereof Woodstocke is the most ancient and magnificent , built to that glory by King Henry the first , and enlarged with a Labyrinth of many windings by King Henry the second , to hide from his jealous Iuno , his intirely beloued Concubine Rosamond Clifford , a Damosell of surpassing beautie ; where notwithstanding , followed by a clew of silke that fell from her lap , she was surprised and poisoned by Queene Eleanor his wife , and was first buried at Godstow Nunnery , in the midst of the Quire vnder a Hearse of silke , set about with lights , whom Hugh Bishop of Lincolne ( thinking it an vnfit obiect for Virgins deuotion ) caused to be remoued into the Church yard : but those chaste sisters liked so well the memory of that kinde Lady , as that her bones they translated againe into their Chappell .

Bensington is another of his Majesties Mannours , built by William de la Pole Duke of Suffolke , but now in neglect through the anno●ance arising from the waters or marishes adioyning Houses built for deuotion , and for abuse suppressed and againe put downe , the chiefe in account were Enisham , Osney , Bru●rn , Godstow , Burchester , and Tame , besides S. Frideswides , and very many other stately Houses of Religion in the Citie .

GLOCESTER-SHIRE . CHAPTER XXIII .

GLOCESTER-SHIRE , lyeth bordered vpon the North with Worcester and Warwicke-shires , vpon the East with Oxford and Wileshire ; vpon the South altogether with Sommerset-shire : and vpon the West with the Riuer Wye and Hereford-shire .

(2) The length thereof extended from Bristow vpon the Riuer Auon in her South , vnto Clifford vpon another Auon in her North , are about fortie eight miles ; and her broadest part from East to West , is from Lechlad vnto Preston , containing twentie eight : the whole circumference about one hundred thirtie eight miles .

(3) The forme whereof is somewhat long and narrow : the Ayre thereof is pleasant , sweet and delectable : and for fruitfulnesse of Soile heare Malmesbury and not me : The ground of this Shire throughout ( saith he ) yeeldeth plentie of Corne , and bringeth forth abundance of fruits ; the one through the naturall goodnesse onely of the ground , the other through the diligent manuring and tillage , in such wise , that it would prouoke the laziest person to take paines Here you may see the High-wayes and Common Lanes clad with Apple trees and Peare trees , not ingrafted by the industry of mans hand , but growing naturally of their owne accord : the ground of it selfe is so inclined to beare fruits , and those both in taste and beautie farre exceeding others , and will endure vntill a new supply come . There is not any Country in England so thicke set with Vineyards as this Prouince is , so plentifull of increase , and so pleasant in taste . The very wines made thereof carry no vnpleasant tartnesse , as being little inferiour in sweet verdure to the French wines ; the houses are innumerable , the Churches passing faire , and the Townes standing very thicke . But that which addeth vnto all good gifts ( a speciall glory ) is the Riuer Seuerne , then which there is not any in all the Land , for Channell broader , for Streame swifter , or for Fish better stored . There is in it a daily rage and fury of waters , which I know not whether I may call a Gulfe or Whirle-pole of waues , raising vp the sands from the bottome , winding and driuing them vpon heapes : sometimes ouerflowing her bankes , ro●eth a great way vpon the face of her bordering grounds , and againe retyreth as a Conquerour into the vsuall Channell . Vnhappy is the Vessell which it taketh full vpon the side : but the Water-men well ware thereof , when they see that Hydra comming , turne the Vessell vpon it , and cut thorow the midst of it , whereby they checke and auoyd her violence and danger .

(4) The ancient people that possessed this Prouince , were the DOBVNI , who spread themselues further into Oxford shire . But betwixt the Seuerne and Wye were seated part of SILVRES , or Inhabitants of South Wales . And vpon what ground I know not , let Lawyers dispute it , the Inhabitants in some part of this Shire enioy a priuate custome to this day , that the Goods and Lands of Condemned Persons fall vnto the Crowne but onely for a yeare and a day , and then returne to the next heires , contrary to the custome of all England besides ▪

(5) The general Commodities of this Shire , are Corne , Iron , and Wools , all passing fine , besides Pasturage , Fruits , and Woods , which last are much lessened by making of Iron , the onely bane of Oke , Elme , and Beech.

(6) These , with all other prouisions are traded thorow twenty fiue Market-Townes in this County , whereof two are Cities of no small import : the first is Glocester , from whom the Shire taketh name , seated vpon Seuerne , neere the middest of this Shire , by Antonine the Emperour called Gleuum , built first by the Romans , and set as it were vpon the necke of the Silures , to yoake them , where their Le●ion called Colonia Gleuum , lay . It hath beene walled about ( excepting that part that is defended by the Riuer ) the ruines whereof in many places appeare ; and some part yet standing , doth well witnesse their strength . This City was first won from the Britaines by Cheulin the first King of the West-Saxons , about the yeare of Christ , 570. and afterwards vnder the Mercians it flourished with great honour , where Of●●k King of Northumberland , by the sufferance of Ethelred of Mercia , founded a most stately Monastery of Nunnes , whereof Kineburgh , Eadburgh , and Eue , Queenes of the Mercians , were Prioresses successiuely each after other .

(7) Edelsted a most renowned Lady , sister to King Edward the elder , in this Citie built a faire Church , wherein her selfe was interred ; which being ouerthrowne by the Danes , was afterwards rebuilt , and made the Cathedrall of that See , dedicated vnto the honour of S. Peter . In this Church the vnfortunate Prince , King Edward the second , vnder a Monument of Alablaster doth lye ; who being murdered at Barkley Castle , by the crueltie of French Isabel his wife , was there intombed And not farre from him another Prince as vnfortunate , namely , Robert Curthole , the eldest sonne of William the Conquerour , lyeth in a painted woodden Tombe in the middest of the Quire ; whose eyes were pluckt out in Cardiffe Castle , wherein he was kept prisoner twenty six yeares , with all contumelious indignities , vntill through extreame anguish he ended his life . And before any of these , in this Citie say our British Historians , the body of Lucius our first Christian King was interred : and before his dayes the Britaines Aruiragus .

The graduation of this County I obserue from this Citie , whence the Pole is eleuated in the degree of Latitude 52 and 14. minutes , and in Longitude from the West , 18. and 5. minutes .

(8) The other Citie is Pristow , fa●re , but not very ancient , built vpon the Riuers Auon and Froome , for trade of Merchandize a second London , and for beautie and account next vnto Yorke . This Citie standeth partly in this Countie , and partly in Sommerset shire : but being a Countie of it selfe , will acknowledge subiection to neither .

(9) A Citie more ancient hath beene Ci●cester , by Ptolomie called Corinium ; by Antonine , Duro●●●no●ium ; by Giraldus , Passerum Vi●em , The Sparrowes Citie , vpon a flying report , that Gu●mund a Tyrant from Africks , besieging this Citie , tyed fire vnto the wings of Sparrowes , who lighting in the Towne vpon light matter , set flame vpon all . The circuit of whose wal● extended two miles about , wherein the Consular Port or wayes of the Romans met and crossed each other . This Citie was wonne from the Britaines by Cheulin first King of the West-Saxons : afterwards it was possessed by the Mercians ; and lastly , by the Danes vnder Gurmund ( the former no doubt mistaken for him ) wherein a rable of them kept the space of a yeare , Anno 879. and neuer since inhabited , according to the circuit of her walles .

( 10 ) Places of memorable note are these : the Iland Al●ey neere vnto Glocester , wherein Edmund Iron-side the English , and Canutus the Dane , after many battles and bloud , fought in single Combat hand to hand alone , vntill they compounded for the Kingdomes partition : Barkley Castle , where King Edward the second was thorow his fundament runne into his bowels with a red burning Spit : Tewkesbury the fatall period of King Henry the sixt his gouernment , and the wound of the Lancastrian Cause ; for in a Battle there fought in Anno 1471. Prince Edward , the onely Sonne of King Henry , had his braines dashed out in a most shamefull manner , the Queene his mother taken prisoner , and most of their fauorites slaine and beheaded . And at Alderley , a little Towne standing eight miles from the Seuerne , vpon the hilles to this day are found Cockles , Periwincles , and Oysters of solid stone , which whether they haue beene Shel-fish and liuing creatures , or else the sports of Nature in her workes , let the Naturall Philosophers dispute of and judge .

( 11 ) The places of pietie , set apart from other worldly Seruices , and dedicated to religious vses by the deuotions of Princes , erected in this Shire , were Tewkesbury , Deorhust , Glocester , Minching , Barkley , Kinswood , Circester , Winchcombe , and Hales ; which last was built with great cost by Richard Earle of Cornwall , King of the Romans , wherein himselfe , and his Dutchesse were interred . Their son Earle Edmund brought out of Germany the bloud of Hales , supposed and said to be part of that which Christ shed vpon his Crosse . In this place with great confluence and deuotions of Pilgrimage it was sought to and worshipped , till time proued it a meere counterfeit , when the glorious light of the Gospell reuealed to eye-sight such grosse Idolat●ies , and the skirts of Superstition were turned vp , to the shew of her owne shame .

( 12 ) Dukes and Earles that haue borne the title of Glocester , the first of euery Family art by their Armes and Names expressed , euer fatall to her Dukes , though the greatest in bloud and birth . The first was Thomas Woodstocke , sonne to King Edward the third , who in Ca●●is was smoothered in a Feather-bed to death . The second was Humfrey brother to King Henry the fift , by the fraudulent practise of the malignant Cardinall and Queene , made away at S. Edmundsbury . And the last was Richard , brother to King Edward the fourth , who by the iust hand of God was cut off in Battle by King Henry the seauenth .

HEREFORD-SHIRE . CHAPTER XXIIII .

HEREFORD-SHIRE , ( formerly accounted within the limits of Wales ) lyeth circulated vpon the North with Worcester and Shrop-shire ; vpon the East with Maluerne Hils is parted from Glocester-shire ; vpon the South is kept in with Monmouth-shire ; and vpon the West in part with the Hatterall Hilles is diuided from Brecknok ; and the rest confined with Radnorshire .

(2) This Counties Climate is most healthfull and temperate , and Soyle so fertile for Corne and Cattle , that no place in England yeeldeth more or better conditioned : sweet Riuers running as veynes in the body , doe make the Corne bearing grounds in some of her parts rightly to be tearmed the Gilden Vale : and for Waters , Wooll , and Wheate , doth contend with Nilus , Colchos , and Egypt : such are Lemster , Irchenfeild , the bankes of Wye , Luge , and Frome .

(3) The ancient people knowne to the Romanes , ( whose power they well felt before they could subdue them ) were the Silures , placed by Ptolemie in this tract , and branched further into Radnor , Brecknok , Monmouth , and Glamorgan-shires , at this day by vs called South-Wales , and by the Welsh Debeubarth . Their Originall , as Tacitus coniectureth by their site , coloured countenances and curled haire , was out of Spaine , and as both he and Plinie describes them , were fierce , valiant , and impatient of seruitude , which well they shewed vnder Cara●●cus their Captaine , and nine yeares scourge to the Roman assaulters , for whose onely Conquest ( and that made by treachery ) the Victor in Rome triumphed with more then a vsuall Aspect ; and with so equall an hand bare the Scoale of Resistance , that their owne Writers euermore terme it a dangerous Warre . For the Legion of Marius Valens they put to flight , and that with such hauock of the Associates , that Osterius the Lieutenant of Britaine for very griefe gaue vp his ghost : and Veranius vnder Nero assaulted them in vaine . But when Vespasian was Emperour , and expert Souldiers imployed in euery Prouince , Iulius Frontinus subdued these Silures vnto the Romans , where continually some of their Legions afterward kept , till all was abandoned in Valentinians time .

(4) The Saxons then made themselues Lords of this Land , and this Prouince a part of their Mercians Kingdome ; yea , and Sutton the Court of great Offa their King .

(5) But Hereford after , raised of the ruines of old Ariconium ( now Kenchester , shaken in pieces by a violent Earth quake ) grew to great fame , through a conceiued sanctity by the buriall of Ethelbert King of the East-Angles , slaine at Sutton by Offa , at what time he came thither to haue espoused to his Daughter ; whose graue was first made at Marden , but afterwards canonized and remoued to this Citie , when in honour of him was built the Cathedrall Church by Milfrid , a pettie King of that Country , which Gruffith Prince of South-Wales , and Algar an Englishman , rebelling against King Edward Confessor , consumed with fire ; but by Bishop Remesiu was restored at now it is , at what time the Towne was walled , and is so remaining in good repaire , hauing sixe Gates for entrance , and fifteen Watch-towers for defence , extending in compasse to fifteen hundred paces : and whence the North-Pole is obserued to be raised 52. degrees , 17. minutes in Latitude , and is set from the first point of the West in Longitude , 17. degrees and 30. minutes ; being yearely gouerned by a Maior , chosen out of one and thirtie Citizens , which are commonly called the Election , and he euer after is knowne for an Alderman , and clothed in Scarlet , whereof foure of the eldest are Iustices of Peace , graced with a Sword-bearer , a Recorder , a Towne-Clerke , and foure Sergeants with Mace .

The greatest glory that this Citie receiued , was in King Athelstans dayes ; where ( as Malmesbury doth report ) he caused the Lords of Wales by way of Tribute , to pay yearely ( besides Hawkes and Hounds ) twenty pound of Gold , and three hundred pound of Siluer by waight ; but how that was performed and continued I finde not .

(6) Things of rare note in this Shire are said to be , Bone well , a Spring not farre from Richards Castle , wherein are continually found little Fishes bones , but not a sinne seene ; and being wholly cleansed thereof , will notwithstanding haue againe the like , whether naturally produced , or in veynes thither brought , no man knoweth .

(7) But more admirable was the worke of the Omnipotent , euen in our owne remembrances , and yeare of Christ Iesus 1571. when the Mareley hill in the East of this Shire , rouzed it selfe out of a dead sleepe , with a roaring noise remoued from the placewhere it stood , and for three dayes together trauelled from her first site , to the great amazement and feare of the beholders . It began to journey vpon the seuenth day of February , being Saturday , at sixe of the Clocke at night , and by seauen in the next morning had gone fortie paces , carrying with it Sheepe in their coates , hedge-rowes , and trees ; whereof some were ouer-turned , and some that stood vpon the plaine , are firmely growing vpon the hill , those that were East , were turned West ; and those in the West 〈◊〉 set in the East : in which remoue it ouerthrew K●●nasten Chappell , and turned two high-wayes 〈◊〉 hundred yards from their vsuall paths formerly trod . The ground thus trauelling , was abo●● 〈…〉 six Acres , which opening it selfe with Rockes and all , bare the earth before it for foure hundred yards space without any stay , leauing that which was Pasturage in place of the Tillage , and the Tillage ouerspread with Pasturage . Lastly , ouerwhelming her lower parts , mounted to an hill of twelue fadomes high , and there rested her selfe after three dayes trauell : remaining his marke , that so laid hand vpon this Rocke , whose power hath poysed the Hils in his Ballance .

(8) Religious Houses built by the deuotions of Princes , and stored with Votaries and reuenewes for life , were in this Shire no lesse then thirteene , most sweetly seated in the places as followeth : at both the Herefords , Barron , Ewayot , Clifford , Mone●●e , Acornebury , Lemster , Linbroke , Peterchurch , Kilpek , Dore , and Wiggemore : and suspected of hypocrisie , were called in question by King Henry the eight , and so strictly pursued , that some faults were apparant , whereby they were laid open to the generall Deluge of the Time , whose streame bare downe the walles of all those foundations , carrying away the Shrines of the dead , and defacing the Libraries of their ancient Records .

WORCESTER-SHIRE . CHAPTER XXV .

WORCESTER-SHIRE , is a Countie both rich and populour , and lyeth circulated vpon the North with Stafford 〈◊〉 vpon 〈◊〉 East with Warwicke and Oxford-shires ; vpon the South with Glacester shire , and the West by Maluerne Hils is parted from Hereford shire : the rest lyeth confronted vpon and in part diuided from Sh●op-shire by the Riuer Dowles .

(2) The forme thereof is triangle , but not of equall proportion ; for from North to South are thirtie two miles , from South to North-West twenty two , and from thence to her North-East point are twenty eight : the whole in Circumference is one hundred and twentie miles .

(3) The Ayre in this Shire is of a fauourable temperature , that giues an appetite for labour , diet , and rest : the Soyle is fertile , and to me seemed inferiour to notice other in this Land : for besides the abundance of Corne in euery place spread , the Woods and Pasturage in her hils and plaines , sweet Riuers that water the vallies below , and Cattle that couer the tops of higher ground ; the Fields , Hedge-rowes , and High-wayes are beset with fruitfull Peare-trees , that yeeld great pleasure to sight , and commodious vse : for with their iuyce they make a bastard kinde of Wine , called Perry , which is both pleasant and good in taste . Many Salt Springs also this County affordeth ; yea , and more then are commonly in vse : such with the Germans , our ancient Predecessors , were esteemed most sacred and holy ; so that ( as Tacitus writeth ) to such they wontedly resoted to supplicate their Gods with their deuout prayers , as to places neerest the heauens , and therefore the sooner to be heard . And Poets in their faynings will haue the Nymphs residence in shady greene groues , and bankes of sweet Springs : if so , then ( as Hellicon ) this County affords both : such are the Forrests of W●re and Feckenham , the great woods of Norton , and most faire Chase of Maluerne . And for waters , to witnesse what I say , is the Seuera● that cuts this Shire in the midst , Teme , Salwarp , and Auon , all of them making fruitfull their passage , and stored with Fish of most delicious taste .

(4) The ancient people , possessors of this Shire , were the CORNAVII , inhabitants of Chesse-shire , Shrop-shire , Stafford , and Warwicke-shires , subdued by the Romanes in Claudius Caesars time , and after their departure , made a portion of the Mercian-Saxons Kingdome , and in Bedaes time were called the Wicij , whereof it may be this Shire had the name : vnlesse you will haue it from the Salt-Pits , which in old English are named Wiches ; or from the famous Forrest of Wyre . Howsoeuer , true it is that the County doth hold the name from her chiefe Citie Worcester .

(5) Which is most pleasantly seated , passing well frequented , and very richly inhabited . This was the Branouium , mentioned by Antouine and Ptolemie , called by the Britaines , Caer-Wrangon ; by Ninius , Caer-Cuorcon ; and by the Latines , Vigornia . This Citie is seated vpon the East banke of Seuerne , and from the same is walled in triangle-wise about , extending in circuit one thousand sixe hundred and fiftie paces : thorow which seauen Gates enter , with fiue other Watch Towers for defence . It is thought the Romanes built this to restraine the Bertaines that held 〈◊〉 beyond Seutr●e . This Citie by Hardy Canute in the yeare of Christ 1041. was sorely endangered , and set on fire , and the Citizens slaine almost euery one , for that they had killed his Collector of the Danish Tribute : yet it was presently repaired and peopled , with many Burgesses . and for fifteene Hides discharged it selfe to the Conquerour ; as in his Doomesdayes is to be seene . But in the yeare 1113. a sodaine fire happened , no man knew how , which burnt the Castle and Cathedrall Church . Likewise in the ciuill hroyles of King Stephen it was twice lighted into a flame , and the later laid it hopelesse of recouery . Notwithstanding from those dead Ashes a new Phenix arose , and her building raised in a more stately proportion , especially the Cathedrall dedicated to S. Mary , first laid by Bishop Sexwolfe , in Anno 680 since when it hath beene augmented almost to the Riuer : In the midst of whose Quire , from his many turmoiles , resteth the body of King Iohn ( the great with-stander of the Popes proceedings ) vnder a Monument of white Marble , in Princely Vestures , with his portraiture thereon according to life . And in the South-side of the same Quire lyeth intombed Prince Arthur the eldest Sonne to King Henry the seauenth , his Monument is all blacke Iette , without remembrance of him by Picture .

This City is gouerned by two Bailiffes , two Aldermen , two Chamberlaines , and two Constables , yearely elected out of twentie-foure Burgesses clothed in Scarlet , assisted with fortie-eight other Citizens , whom they call their Common Counsellors , clad in Purple , a Recorder , Towne-Clerke , and fiue Sergeants with Mace their Attendants Whose Geographichall Position is distant in Longitude from the West-Meridian 18. degrees , 10. scruples , hauing the North-Pole cleuated in Latitude 52. degrees , and 32. scruples .

(6) Places of further note for memorable antiquitie , is Vpton , of great account in the Romane time , wheresome of their Legions kept , as witnesse their Monies there often found : the admirable Ditch vpon Maluerne hils , drawne by Gilbert Clare , Earle of Glocester , to diuide his Lands from the Church of Worcester : the Saxons our Augustines Oke , where he the English Apostle met with the British Bishops for the vniforme celebration of Easter , from whence both parts departed with discontented minds , after many hot word and thwarting disputes .

(7) Neither is it without admiration to me , that many places of this Shire lye farre within the Precincts of other Prouinces , as Aulston , Washbornes , Cuttesden , Paxford , Hanging Easton , Northwick● , Blockley , Burlode in Glocester-shire , and Goldcote , Aldermerston , Newbold , Treddenton , Armiscote , Blackwell , Darlings-cote , Shi●●● , Tyd●●ton , Olbarrow in Warwick-shire ; Dudley in Stafford-shire , and Rochford in Hereford-shire , whither I must referre the Reader to finde out these and the like in these Westerne Tracts .

(8) Religious places erected in this Shire and deuoted vnto God by deuout persons , were Bredon , Brodlege , Euesholme , Alnecester , Cochell , Fladbury , Maluerin , Pershore , Stodlege , Westwoods , and Worcester , plenteously prouided for , and further secured by many priuiledges , both which they abused , as were the inditements of all such in the dayes of King Henry the eight , at whose Barre ( himselfe being Iudge ) they were found guiltie , and receiued sentence of their ends and destruction .

(9) Castles for defence built in this County , ruinate or in strength , were Hartlebury , Holt , Handley , Norton , Elmeley , and Worcester , besides his Majesties Mannour of Tichnell .

WARWICKE-SHIRE . CHAPTER XXVI .

WARWICKE-SHIRE , ( so called from her Shire-Towne ) is bounded vpon the North with the Countie of Stafford ; vpon the East , with Watling-street-way is parted from Leicester shire , and the rest bordered vpon by Northampton shire : the South part is butted by Oxford and Glocester shires ; and all her West with the Countie of Worcester .

(2) The forme thereof is not much vnlike to a Scallop shell , growing from her Westerne head , and spreading her body wider , with many indents . The length thereof from Newton in the North , to L●ug Compton in the South , are miles thirtie and three : and the broadest part of this Shire , is from H●well grange in the West , vnto Hill morton in the East , distant asunder twentie fiue miles ; the whole in Circumference , about one hundred thirtie and fiue miles .

(3) This Shire is sited neere vnto the heart of all England , and therefore participates with her in the best both for ayre and soyle , wanting nothing for profit or pleasure for man . The South part from Auon ( that runneth thorow the midst of this Countie ) is called the Feldon , as more champion and tractable to be stirred for Corne , which yearely yeeldeth such plentifull haruest , that the husbandman sm●●th in beholding his paines , and the medowing pastures with their greene mantles so imbrodred with flowers , that from Edg-hill we may behold another Eden , as Lot did the Plaine of Iordon , before that Sodome fell . The Woodland lyeth vpon the North of Auon , so called in regard of the plentie of Woods ; which now are much thinner by the making of Iron , and the soile more churlish to yeeld to the Plough .

(4) The ancient people that possessed this Prouince , are by Ptolemies description called the Corna●●ij , wherein after were seated the Mercian-Saxons , a part of whose Kingdome it was , and greatly sought after by the West-Saxons , whose King Cuthred , about the yeare of Christ Iesus 749 in Battle slew Ethelbald at Seckington neere vnto Ta●worth . And not farre from thence , King Edward the 4. as vnfortunately sought against that stout make-King , Richard Neuil Earle of Warwicke : neere vnto which , vpon Blacklow-hill , Pierce Gaueston ( that proud and new-raised Earle of Cornwall ) was beheaded by Guy Earle of Warwicke , assisted with the Earles of Lancaster and Hereford . And surely , by the testimony of Iohn Rosse , and others , this County hath beene better replenished with people ; who maketh complaint of whole Towneships depopulations , altogether laid waste by a puissant Armie of feeding sheepe .

(5) Notwithstanding , many faire Townes it hath , and some of them matchable to the most of England . The chiefe thereof is Couentree , a Citie both stately for building , and walled for defence : whose Citizens hauing highly offended their first Lord Leofricke , had their priuiledges infringed , and themselues oppressed with many hauie Tributes ; whose wife Lady Godina pitying their estates , vnceslantly sued for their peace , and that with such importunacie , as hardly could be said whether was greater , his hatred , or her loue : at last ouercome with her continuall intercessions , he granted her suir , vpon an vnciuill , and ( as he thought ) an vnacceptable condition which was , that she should ride naked thorow the face of the Citie , and that openly at high noone-day . This notwithstanding she thankfully accepted , and performed the act accordingly enioyned : for this Lady G●di●a stripping her selfe of all rich attire , let loose the treffes of her faire haire , which on euery side so couered her nakednesse , that no part of her body was vnciuill to sight ; whereby she redeemed the former freedomes , and remission of such heauie Tributes . Whose memory I wish may remaine honourable in that Citie for euer , and her pitie followed by such possessing Ladies .

This Citie had grant to choose their yearely Magistrates , a Maior and two Bailiffes , and to build about and embattle a wall , by King Edward the 3. whom Henry the 6. corporated a Countie of it selfe , and changed the names of their Bailifs into Sherifs : and the wals then were built as they now stand ; thorow which open 13 gates for entrance , besides 18. other Towers thereon for defence . At Gofford-gate in the East hangeth the shield-bene of a wild Bore , farre bigger then the greatest Oxe-bone : with whose snout the great pit called Swanswell was turned vp , and was slaine by the famous Guy , if we will beleeue report .

Next vnto this Citie , in account and commerce , is Warroicke , vpon the North-west banke of Auon , built by Gurgunstus , the sonne of Bel●●e , as Iohn Rosse , Monke of the place , saith , 375. yeares before the birth of Christ : by Ninius called Caer-Guaruic and Caer-Leon ; and by learned Cambden judged to be PRAESIDIVM , the Romane Garrisons Towne . The situation of this place is most pleasant , vpon a hill rising from the Riuer , ouer which is a strong and faire Stone bridge , and her sharpe streame vpon the Towne side checked with a most sumptuous and stately Castle , the decayes whereof , with great cost and curious buildings , the right worthy Knight Sir Foulke Greuil ( in whose person shineth all true vertue and high nobilitie ) hath repaired : whose merits to me ward I doe acknowledge , in setting this hand free from the daily imployments of a manuall trade , and giuing it full libertie thus to expresse the inclination of my minde , himselfe being the Procurer of my present estate .

It seemeth this Towne hath beene walled about , as appeareth by the Trench in some places seene , and two very faire Gates , whose passages are hewed out of the Rocke , as all other into the Towne are : ouer whom two beautifull Chappels are built ; that towards the East called S Peters , and that on the South-west , S Iames .

Two faire Churches are therein seated , called S. Maries and S. Nicholas : but these in , and about the Towne suppressed , S. Laurence , S. Michaels , Iohn Baptist , and Iohn of Ierusalem , beside the Nunnery in the North of the Towne : whose North Pole is eleuated in Latitude 52. degrees , 45 minutes , and is seated from the first point in the West of Longitude , 18 degrees and 45 minutes , being yearely gouerned by a Bailiffe , twelue Brethren , twentie foure Burgesses for Common Counsell , a Recorder , a Towne-Clerke , and one Sergeant their Attendant .

(7) Places of most memorable note obserued in this Shire , are Shugbury , where the precious stone Astroites is found : Of-Church , which was the Palace of great Offa the Mercian , and the buriall-place of S. Fremund his sonne : Chesterton , where the famous Fosse-way is seene . At Leamington , so far from the Sea , a Spring of Salt-water boileth vp : and at Newenham Regis most soueraigne water against the Stone , Greene wounds , Vlcers , and Impostumes ; and drunke with Salt looseth , but with Sugar bindeth the body ; and turneth wood into stone as my selfe saw by many sticks that therein were fallen ▪ some part of them Ash , and some part of them Stone : and Guy-Cliffe , where the famous Earle Guy , after many painefull exploits atchieued , retired , and vnknowne , lead an Hermits life , and was lastly there buried .

(8) The chiefest Commodities in this Countie growing , are Corne , whereof the Red Horse Vale yeeldeth most abundantly ; Woolls in great plentie ; Woods and Iron , though the producer of the one will be the destruction of the other . Such honourable Families as haue beene dignified with the Earledome of this Shire-Townes name since the Normans Conquest , in the great Map it selfe are inserted , and by their seuerall names expressed .

NORTHAMPTON-SHIRE . CHAPTER XXVII .

NORTHAMPTON-SHIRE , situated neere vnto the middest of England , lyeth separtted vpon the North from Lincoln-shire by the Riuer W●land ; from Hammington-shire on the East is parted by the water Nene : her South is bounded with Buckingham and Oxford shires , and the West from Warwicke with Watling-street-way , Auon , and Weland , is diuided from Leicester-shire .

(2) The forme of this Countie is large and narrow , broadest in the South-west ; and thence shooting still lesser like vnto a Horne , nor not much vnlike to the forme of Cornwall : and from the entrance of Cherwell into this Shire , vnto the fall of Weland and Nene neere vnto Crowland , are by measure fortie sixe miles ; and the broadest part is from Ouse vnto Auon , which is not fully twentie miles : the whole in circumference one hundred and nineteene miles ▪

(3) The aire is good , temperate , and healthfull : the soile is champion , rich , and fruitfull , and so plenteously peopled , that from some Ascents , thirtie Parish-Churches , and many more Wind-milles at one view may be seene : notwithstanding the simple and gentle sheepe , of all creatures the most harmelesse , are now become so rauenous , that they begin to deuoure men , waste fields , and depopulate houses , if not whole Towne-ships , as one merily hath written .

(4) The antient people knowne to the Romans , and recorded by Ptolemie , were the Coritani , who possessed this Country , and were branched further thorow Leicester , Lincolne , Nottingham , Rutland , and Darbie-shires : these ioyning with the Irenians , with them were fettered with the chaines of subiection , when for Claudius , Publius Ostrius Scapula entred his Lieutenantship in Britaine , and in battle subdued all betwixt the Riuers Nene and Sabrina . But when the Romans were content to let goe that which so long was desired , and had cost so much in the getting , the Saxons , a most warlike Nation put into these parts , and made it a portion of their Mercian Kingdome : but their gouernment also growne out of date , the Normans seated themselues in these faire possessions , the branches of whole Stemmes are spread abroad in these parts , most fruitfull and faire .

(5) Commodities arising in this Shire , are chiefly gotten by tillage and plough , whereby corne so plentifully aboundeth , that in no other Countie is found more , or so much : the pastures and woods are filled with Cattle , and euery where sheepe loaden with their fleeces of wooll .

(6) The chiefe Towne in this Shire is Northampton , whereof the Countie taketh name , which for circuit , beautie , and building , may be ranked with the most of the Cities of our Land . It is seated at the meeting and confluence of two Riuers , the greater whereof beareth to name Nen. This Towne hath beene built all of stone , as by many foundations remaining to this day is seene , and is walled about both strong and high , excepting the West , which is defended by a Riuer parted into many streames . In the depredations of the Danes , Suen their King set this Towne on fire , and afterwards it was sorely assulted by the disobedient Barons of King Iohn , who named themselues , The Ar●●ie of God : But the loyaltie of this Towne stood nothing so sure vnto King Henry his sonne , whence the Barons with displayed Banners sounded the Battle against their Soueraigne . And yet after this a woefull Field of Englands ciuill diuision was fought , whence Richard Neuil the stout Earle of Warwicke , lead away prisoner that vnfortunate man King Henry the sixth . Vpon the West part of this Towne standeth a large Castle , mounted vpon an hill , whose aged countenance well sheweth the beautie that she hath borne , and whose gaping chinkes doe daily threaten the downefall of her walles . To this vpon the South the Townes wall adioyneth , and in a round circuit meeteth the Riuer in the North , extending in compasse two thousand one hundred and twentie pases : whose fire so pleased the Students of Cambridge , that thither they remoued themselues vpon the Kings Warrant , in minde to haue made it on an Vniuersitie : from whence the North-pole is eleuated 52. degrees 36. scruples for Latitude , and in Longitude is remoued from the West 19 degrees and 40 scruples ; being yearely gouerned by a Maior , two Bailiffes , twelue Magistrates , a Recorder , Towne-Clerke , a Common Counsell of fortie eight Burgesses , with fiue Sergeants to execute businesse .

(7) But the deuotions of the Saxon-Kings made Peterborow more famous , formerly called Meddeswell , where Wolphere King of Mercia began a most stately Monastery to the honour of S. Peter , for satisfaction of the bloud of his two sonnes , whom he had murdered in case of Christianitie : but himselfe being for the like made away by his mother , his brother Penda continued the worke , with the assistance of his brother Ethelred , and two sisters , Kineburga and Kineswith . This among the Danish Desobutions was cast downe , yet was it againe restored to greater beautie by Ethelwold Bishop of Winchester , with the helpe of King Edgar , and of Adulph his Chancellour , who vpon pricke of Conscience , that in bed with his wife had ouerlaid and smoothered an Infant their onely sonne , laid all his wealth vpon the reedifying of the place , and then became Abbot thereof himselfe . The Cathedrall is most beautifull and magnificall , where , in the Quire lie interred two vnfortunate Queenes : on the North side Katharine Dewager of Spaine , the repudiate wife of King Henry the eight , vnder an Hearse couered with blacke Saye , hauing a white Crosse in the midst : and on the South-side , Mary Queene of Scotland , whose Hearte is spread ouer with blacke Veluet ▪ The Cloyster is large , and in the glasse-windowes very curiously portraied the History of Wolphere the Founder , whose Royall Seat was at Wedon in the street , conuerted into a Monastery by S Werburg his holy daughter , and had beene the Roman Station , by Antonine the Emperour called Bannauenna . So likewise Norman-chester was the ancient Citie Durobriuae , where their Souldiers kept , as by the monies there daily found is most apparent .

(8) Houses of Religion deuoted to Gods Seruice by the pious intents of their well-meaning Founders were at Peterborow , Peakirk , Pipewell , Higham , Dauintree , Sulby , Sausecombe , Sewardesug , Gare , S Dewy , S Michell , Luffeild , Catesby , Brvth , Barkley , Finishead , Fotheringhay , Wedon , and With●●p , besides them in Northampton , all which felt the stormes of their owne destruction , that raged against them in the Raigne of King Henry the eight , who dispersed their Reuenewes to his owne Coffers and Courtiers , and ulled the stones asunder or their seeming euer-sure Foundations ; and in the time of young Edward , his sonne , whose minde was free from wronging the dead , the Tombes of his owne Predecessours were not spared , when as Edward slaine at Agincourt , and Richard at Wakefield , both of them Dukes of Yorke , were after death assaulted with the weapons of destruction , that cast downe their most faire Monuments in the Collegiate Church of Fotheringhay Castle .

(9) Eight Princely Families haue enioyed the Title of the Earledome of Northampton , whereof the last , Henry Hawara , late Lord Priuie Seale , a most honourble Patron to all learned proceedings ( that I may acknowledge my dutifull and humble Seruice ) hath most honourably assisted and set forward these my endeuours .

HVNTINGTON-SHIRE . CHAPTER XXVIII .

HVNTINGTON-SHIRE , ( part of the leui vnder the Romane Monarch of Mertia in the Saxon Heptarchy ) is seuered with Nene , the North-bounder from Northamptonshire , to which it in part adioyneth West ; from Bedford and Cambridge , by mearing Townes on the South ; and from Ely , by a sence of water East , theworke of Nature , Benwicke Streame , or of Art , Canutus Delph : seuered when Alfred , or before him , Offa shared the open circuit of their Empery into Principalities : that by residency of subordinate rule , Peace at home might be maintained ; Fortaine offence ( by apt assembly of the Inhabitants ) resisted ; Taxe and Reuenew of the Crowne laid more euenly , and easierly leuyed ; Iustice at mens dores with lesse charge and iourney administered : all causes Ciuill hauing a right and speedy dispatch , in the County or Earles monethly Court , as Criminall in his Lieutenant the Sheriffes Turne , twice a yeare . In forme of a Lozeng this Shire lyeth , of positure temperate , and is 52. degrees , 4. scruples remoued from the Aequator : the Hilly Soyle to the Plough-man gratefull : the Vale , contiguous to the Fennes , best for Pasture , in which to no part of England it giueth place : Woods are not much wanted , the Riuers seruing Coale , as the Moores Turffe , for fuell .

(2) This Content was ( as the whole Continent ) Forrest , vntill Canutus gaue this Law of grace , Vt quisque tam in agris , quam in siluis excitet agitetque feras . Long were were the hands of Kings to pull ( of old ) the Subiects right into Regall pleasure , when Perambulation & Proclamation onely might make any mans land Forrest . It is in the first Williams time a Phrase in Record not rare , Silua bu●●● Maner●● FORIS EST missa in Siluam Reg●s , from which word of power , Forrest may seeme not vnaptly to be deriued . Cum videbat Henricus primus tres Bissas , fitting his Forrest of Lyfield , he caused Husculphus his Raunger to keepe them for his Game , as the Record doth testifie . Thus did the second of his name , and the first Richard , in many parts : well therefore may the Exchequer-Booke call the Forrest Iustice for Vert and Venison , not Iustum absolutè , but Iustum secundum Legem Forresta . That Foresta is defined , Tuta serarum s●ain , may seeme to confine the Forresters office onely to his Games care , which of ancient was as well ouer Minerall and Maritimall reuenew . The office of Baldwme the great Forrester of Flanders , Non agrum tantum spectabat , sed et Maris custodiam , saith Tullius , out of the old Charters of the French Kings . And see how iust this squares to our Legall practise , for of Assarts , Purprestures , E●●prousment , Greenebugh , Herbage , Paunage , Fowles , Mils , Hony , Mine● , Quarries , and Wreacks at Sea , did the ●●inerall Iustice of the Forrest here enquire . His Subiects of this Shire , Henry the 2. from seruitude of his beasts , ( whose Grand-father pro ●eris homines incarc●rauit , exhareditauit , mutilauit , 〈◊〉 ) did pretend by Charter to enfranchise , except Wabridge , Saple , Herthy , his owne Demaines . But such was the successe by encrochments , vnder his two succeeding Sonnes , that it drew on the oppressed people to importune a new the Soueraignes redresse , which was by the great Charter of the third Henry fruitlesly effected His sonne in the 7. of his Raigne , by a Perambulation , resuming backe the fruit of his fathers goodnesse , and so retaining , vntill in his 29. yeare by Petition , and purchase of his people ( for they gaue him a full Fifteene ) he confirmed the former Charter , and by Iury , View and Perambulation setled that Boundary of Forrest , which contented the people , became the square of vniuersall Iustice in this kinde , and left in this Shire no more then the three former ( his owne grounds ) Forrest .

(3) This Shire hath foure Centuriatae or Hundreds , and had of old time fiue , these so called , Quia prima institutione ex Hederum aliquet centenarijs compositae . These are subdiuided into 79. Parishes , whereof fiue besides the Shire-Towne haue Markets . These Parishes are measured by Hides , and Carucks , or Plough-lands , more or lesse , as either richnes of Soile , or strength of the Lord strengthned or extended their limits , the Masse in whole containing of the first sort , 818. and of the other , 1136. These Hides the ancient and generall measure of land ( except in Kent ) where the account was by Solms ; or Lincolnshire , Vbinon sunt Hida , sed pro Hidis sunt Carucatae ) were esteemed one hundred Acres , Non Normanico sed Anglico numero , vna Hida pro sexies viginti Acris , ●uo produ●dec●es 〈◊〉 , as in the Booke of Domesday Caruca the Teame-land ( not Ca●ucata for they be different ) was in quantitie of Acres , proportioned to the qualitie of Soile , but vsually in this Shire reputed 60. The ●●rgata , or Yard-land , was a more or lesse part of the Hide , as the Acres in number varied , which I finde in this Countie from 18. to 42 but for the most part 30 which was the halfe Plough-land And the Bouata or Oxgang ( presumed in Law for Land in Granary ) was suited in number of Acres to that Yard-land , of which it was a Moitie . Thus ( except in the Fennes , laid out per Leucas & quarentenas , miles and furlongs ) stands all a measurement of Land in this Shire , which containeth in Knights Fees , 53 one halfe , 2 fifts , and a twentieth part . And in full estimation of rent and worth , rose in the time of the Conquerour , to 912. l. 4. s. and now payeth in Fifteene to the King , 371. l. 9. s. 7. 〈◊〉 and in tenth from the Clergie , 142. l. 6. s. q.

(4) This Countie in discition of Titles , and administration of Iustice , did at the first , as the Germans our Ancestors , Iurape● Pagos & vicos reddere ; Euery Towneship by their Friburgi , or Tenmentall , as Triers , and the Baron , Thain , or Head-lord there , or the Decanus ( a good Freholder ) his Deputie , as Iudge , determining all ciuill causes ; a representation of this remaineth still in our Court-Lecte . Aboue this , and held 12. times a yeare , was our Hundred or Wapentake . Quae super decem Decan●s & centum Friburgosiudicabat . Here the Iudges were the Aldermen , and Barons or Free-holders of that Hundred ; Aegelwinus Aldermannus tenuit placitum cum toto Hundredo , saith the Booke of Ely . This Court had Cognoscence of Causes Ecclesiasticall , as Temporall , therefore the Iudge or Alderman ought to be such as Dei leges & hominum iura studebat promouere : thus it went although the Conquerour commanded , Ne Aliquis de legibus Episcopalibus amplius in Hundredo placita teneret . The next and highest in this Shire , was Generale pla●●ū Comitatus , ( the County or Sheriffes Count ) to which were proper Placita Ciuilia vbi curia Deminorum probantur defecisse . Et sit placitum exurga● inter Vauafores duorum Dominorum tractetur in Comitatis . The Iudge was the Earle or Sheriffe . The Tryers Barones Comitatus ( Freholders ) Quiliberat in eo terr● habent , not Ciuill onely , but Probats of Wils , Questions of Tithes , Et debita verae Christianitatis Iura , were heard , and first heard in this Court. Therefore Episcopus , Presbyter Ecclesia , & Quatuor de melioribus villae , were a diuncts to the Sheriffe , Qui dei lege● & secul● negotia iusta consideratione difinirent . The Lay part of this liueth in a sort in the Countie , and Sheriffe Turne ; the Spirituall , about the raigne of King Stephen , by Soueraigne conniuence , suffered for the most into the quarterly Synode of the Clergie , from whence in imitation of the Hundred Court , part was remitted to the Rurall Deaneries , of which this Shire had foure : And these againe haue beene since swallowed vp by a more frequent and superiour Iurisdiction , as some of our Ciuill Courts haue beene . There being now left in vse for the most in this Shire for Causes Criminall , View of Frankpl●g , by grant or prescription , A Session of the Peace quarterly , and two Goale deliueries by the Soueraignes commission : and for Ciuill Causes , Courts of Manours , or of the County mon●●bly , and twice by the Iudges of Assise yearely

The Office of Execution and custody of this County is the Sheralfey , of old inheritable , vntill Eustachius , who by force and fauour of the Conquerour disseised Aluric and his heyres , forfeited it to the Crowne ; but since it hath passed by annuall election , and hath vnited to it the County of Cambridge .

(5) Hauing thus farre spoken of the Shire in generall , next in obseruation falleth the Shire-Towne Huntingdon , Hundandun , or the Hunters Downs , North , seated vpon a rising banke , ouer the rich meadowing riuer Owse , interpreted by some Authors , the Downe of Hunters , to which their now common Seale ( a Hunter ) seemeth to allude . Great and populous was this in the fore-going age , the following hauing here buried of fifteene all but three , besides the Mother-Church S. Maries , in their owne graues . At the raigne of the Conquerour , it was ranged into foure Ferlings or Wards , and in them 256. Burgenses or Housholds : It answered at all assessments for 50. Hides , the fourth part of Hurstingston Hundred in which it standeth . The annuall rent was then 30. l of which , as of three Minters there kept , the King had two parts , the Earle the third ; the power of Coynage then and before , not being so priuatiuely in the King , but Borowes , Bishops , and Earles enioyed it ; on the one side stamping the face and stile of their Soueraigne , in acknowledgement of subordinacie in that part of absolute power , and on the reuerse their owne name , to warrant their integritie in that infinite trust .

(6) The Castle supposed by some the worke of the Elder Edward , but seeming by the Booke of Domesday , to be built by the Conquerour , is now knowne but by the ruines : It was the seate of Waltheof the great Saxon Earle , as of his succeeding heyres , vntill to end the question of right betweene Se●●●ice and the King of Scots , Henry the second , laid it as you see ; yet doth it remaine the head of that honour , on which in other Shires many Knights Fees , and sixteene in this attended Here Dauid Earle of this and Arguise , father of Isabel de Brus , founded the Hospitall of S. Iohn Baptist : And Lo●●tote here vpon the Fee of Eustace the Vicount , built to the honour of the blessed Virgin , the Priory of Blacke Channons , valued at the Suppression , 232 l. 7. s. ob . Here at the North end was a house of Fryers , and without the Towne at Hinchingbrooke , a Cloister of Nunnes , valued at 19. l. 9. s. 2. d. founded by the first William , in place of S. Pandonia , at Eltesley ( by him suppressed ) where neere the end of the last Henry the Family of the Cromwels began their Seat . To this Shire-Towne , and benefit of the neighbour Countries , this Riuer was nauigable , vntill the power of Grey , a mynion of the time , stopt that passage , and with it all redresse eyther by Law or Parliament . By Charter of King Iohn this Towne hath a peculiar Coroner , profit by Toll and Custome , Recorder , Towne-Clerks , and two Bayliffes , ( elected annually for gouernment ) as at Parliament two Burgesses , for aduise and assent : and is Lord of it selfe in Fee-Farme .

The rest of the Hundred ( wherein this Shire-Towne lyeth ) is the East part of the County , and of Hurst a Parish in the center of it , named HVRSTINGSTON , it was the Fee-farme of Ramsey Abbey , which on a point of fertile land , thrust out into the Fennes , is therein situate , founded in the yeare 969 to God , our Lady , and S. Benedicte , by Farle Aylwin of the Royall bloud , replenished with Monkes from Westbury , by Oswold of Yorke , and dedicated by D●nstan of Canterburie , Archbishops . By Abbat Reg●ald 1114 this Church was redified , by Magna●●ll Earle of Essex , not long after spoyled and by Henry the Third , first of all the Norman Princes , visited ; when wasted with the 〈◊〉 warres , Regalis mensae Hospitalitas it abbreuiata fuit , vt cum Abbatibus , Clericis & viris satis humilibus , hospitia quaesunt & prandia This Monastery ( the shrine of two martyred Kings , Ethelbright and Ethelred , and of Saint 〈◊〉 the Persian Bishop ) by humble pietie at first , and pious charitie , ascended such a pitch of worldly fortune , that it transformed their Founder ( religious pouertie ) into their ruine , the attribute of Ra●●y the rich : for hauing made themselues Lords of 387. Hides of land ( whereof 〈◊〉 in this Shire , so much as at an easie and vnder rent , was at the Suppression valued at 1983 l 15 s 3. d q. but by account of this time annually amounts to 7000 〈◊〉 ) they then began to affect popular command , and first inclosing that large circuit of land and water ( for in it lyeth the Mile-square Meere of Ramsey ) as a peculiar Seignory to them , called the Balent or Bandy ( bounded as the Shire , from E●y , and from Norman-Crosse with the Hundred Meere ) by Soueraigne Grant they enioyed regall libertie . And then aspiring a step further , ( to place in Parliament ) made Broughton the head of their Baro●e , annexing to it in this Shire foure Knights Fees . Thus in great glory it stood aboue 400. yeares , vntill Henry the Eight ( amongst many other once bright Lamps of Learning and Religion in this State , though then obscured with those blemishes to wealth and ease concomitant ) dissolued the house , although Iohn Warboys then Abbot , and his 60 blacke Monkes there maintained , were of the first that vnder their hands and conuentuall Seale protested , Quod Romanus Pontifex non habet maiorem aliquam Iurisdictionem collatam sibi à Deo in Regno Angliae quam quivis alius externus Episcopus . A Cell to this rich Monastery was S. Iuces Priory , built in that place of Slep , by Earle Adelmus , in the raigne of the last Edmund , where the incorrupted body of S. Ius there once an Hermit , in a vision reuealed , was by Ednothus taken vp in his Robes Episcopall , and dedicated in the presence of Siward Earle of this Countie , and that Lady of renowned piety Ethelfleda , to the sacred memory of this Persian Bishop . Not farre from this is Somersham , the gift of the Saxon Earle Brithnothus to the Church of Ely , before his owne fatall expedition against the Danes : It is the head of those fiue Townes , of which the Soke is composed , and was an house to the See of Ely , well beautified by Iohn Stanley their Bishop : but now by exchange is annexed to the Crowne As these , so all the rest of this Hundred , was the Churches land , except Rippon Regis ancient Demaine . To which Saple ( reserued Forrest ) adioyned , and the greater Stiuecly , giuen by the last Dauid Earle of Huntingdon , in Fee to his three Seruants , Sentlice , Lakerutle , and Camoys .

(8) NORMANS CROS the next Hundred , taketh name of a Crosse aboue Stilton , the place where in former ages this Diuision mustered their people , whence Wapentake is deriued : it had in it two religious houses , the eldest in the confines of Newton and Chesterton , neere the Riuer of Auon , now Nene , founded ( by the first Abbesse Kineburga the Daughter of Penda , and Wife of Aelfred , King of Northumberland ) West side a Trench , where Ermin-street-way crossed ouer the Riuer by a Stone-bridge , whose ruines are now drowned , whence the Roman Towne there sea●ed on both sides tooke the name Durobriua , as Traiectus Fluminis . But this Nunnery as raised , was also ruined by the Danes before the Conquest The other a Monastery of Cistertian blacke Monks , erected in honour of the Virgin Mary , by the second Simon Earle of Huntington , at Saltry Iudeth , the Land of a Lady of that name , wife of Earle Waltheof , daughter to Lambert Earle of Le●us , Neece to the Conquerour by his Sister , ( her Mother ) and Grand-mother to this Founder Malcome , & William , Kings of Scots , Earles of Hamingdon , and Heires of this Lady , strengthened by seuerall Charters this pious worke . Many chiefe of that Line , as the last Earle Dauid , brother to King William , as Isabel , the wife of Robert d● Brus his Daughter heyre ; and most of the second branch , her Progenie making here their Burials . This house now leuell with the ground , maintained besides the Abbot , sixe Monkes , and 22 Hindes , and was at the Suppression valued at 199. l. 11. c. 8. d The Founders and Patrons of this Monastery were the Lords of the next place Connington , first the seate of Turkillus Earle of the East-Angles , that inuited Swayn from Denmarke to inuade this Land : and who first squared out the vnbounded marishes of this part , to the bordering Townes ; his rule of proportion allowing to euery Parish tantum de Ma●isco , quantum de sicca terra in bredth , in which none , sine licentia Domini might vel federe , vel salcare , but leauing most to inter-common by vicinage . This Dane exiled ( when the rest of his Countreymen were by Edward Confessor ) his land here was giuen to Earle 〈◊〉 by whose eldest heire Matilda marryed to Dauid King of Scots , it went along in that Male line , vntill by death issuelesse of Iohn Earle of Chester and Huntingdon , it fell in partage , to his sister I●abel de Brus , one of his heires , from whose second Sonne Bernard , the Familie of Cotton by lineall succession holdeth this Land , whereto Glarton the adioyning Parish is now by bountie of a second branch annexed . It was in this Shire the head of the honour of Belleine , on which 〈…〉 , Sibson , 〈◊〉 , and Ves●yes Mannor in Chesterton attended : part of it is the fre●● Sea 〈◊〉 , foure mile 〈◊〉 bredth ; ouer which when Emma , and her Children , the issue of Canuti● , sayled with some perill , her Husband in preuention of the like , from Bottsey in a strait course to the opposite firme land , lined with his Attendant Swords that passage , which since hath borne the name of Swords Delph , Kings or Canutus dyke . This Seignory was granted by the Conquerour to Eustace Earle of Bollein , Brother to Lambert Earle of Leins , and Father to Godfrey King of Ierusalem ; reuerting it was giuen to Richard Earle of Cornwall , who granted out of it the two Meeres , Vbbe Meere and Brich Meere , in Fee-Farme to the Church of Ramsey Then after sundry changes it came to Iohn of Gaunt , in exchange of the Earledome of Richmond , and so by descent fell againe into the Crowne Washingley , ( not farre off ) from the ancient Lord of that name , by D●we , and Otter came to the Prices that now posseth it . In Chesterton from Wadsheafe by Dennyes there is to the Beuils ( an ancient name in this Shire ) a Mannor descended . The rest from Aegidius de Merke ( who gaue there much to Royston Priory ) passed by Amundeuill to Gloucester , and so to Vesey by exchange . In Elton , the house rich in a beautious Chappell , from Denham to Sapcotes , and Saultre Beaumes , from that surname ( neere the time of the Conquest ) by Louth to Cornwallis descended ; as Bottlebridge by Gimels , Drayton , Louet , vnto Sherley the now Lord .

(9) LETTVNESTAN HVNDRED hath that name from Leighton , a Towne in the middest of it , giuen by Earle Waltheof to the Church of Lincolne , which after shared it into two Prebendaries . One , the Parsonage impropriate , which still remaineth : the other ( the Lordships ) was resumed by Henry the eight , and now by the Heire of Darcy matched to the Lord Clifton , is become the seate of his Barony . This Hundred had in it no house of Religion , but Stonley a Priorie of seauen blacke Channons , of the order of S. Augustine , founded by the Bigrames , and at the Suppression valued at 62. l. 12. s 3. d ob . It stood within the reach of the great Mannor Kimbolton ( once an Hundred ) which was the land of Earle Harold the Vsurper : after by Graunt it came with the Chase of Swinesheued to Fitz-Peter , from whom by Magnauil to Bohum ( who in time of the 〈◊〉 Barons built there a Forcelet ) and so to Stafford , by whose attainturre forsaited , it was giuen by Henry the eight to the Familie of Wingfield that now possesseth it . At Bugden the See of Lincolne hath a seate , and was Lord of Spaldwick , and the Soke ( giuen in compensation from the Church of Ely , when rent from them , it was by the first Henry made a Bishopricke ) vntill of late that Church gaue vp their interest in Spaldwicke to the Crowne . Brampton was giuen by King Iohn at Mirabel , to Earle Dauid , and by Ada his youngest Daughter fell to Hastings Earle of Pembroke , and now is reuerted to the King To the same Earle Dauid by gift of the former King came Alcumesbury , and by the bounty of Iohn Scot his sonne to Segraue , and so to the Lord Barkley the late possessor . To Quincy●arle ●arle of Winthester , was Keston by Henry the second giuen , by whose Heyre generall Ferrars , it came to the late Earle of Essex , and by exchange to the Crowne .

( 10 ) TOVLESLAND HVNDRED , taketh name likewise of a Towne therein situate . In the out Angle of this , to the memory of S. Neotus a Monke of Glasterbury , but the supposed sonne to 〈◊〉 King of the West-Saxons ( whose body from 〈◊〉 in Cornwall was transferred to Arnalphesbury , then of Arnulphus a holy man , now Eynesbury named ) Earle Alrick and Ethelfleda turned the Palace of Earle Elfred into a Monastery of blacke Monkes , which was razed by the Danes ; but out of the ashes of this , Roisia ( wife to Richard the sonne of Earle Gilbert ) to God , our Lady de Becco , and S. Neot ( as a Cell to the Abbey of Becco in Normandy ) erected vp of blacke Monkes in the yeare 1113. the late Priorie of S. Nedes , suppressed by Henry the eight , and valued at 256. l. 15. d q. At Southo ( the Land of Eustachius the Sheriffe ) Louetote made the seate of that Seignory : on which in this Shire 13. Knights Fees and a halfe depended : But from his line by gift of Verdon and Vesey drowned were these in the honour of Gloucester . Neare to this at Cretingsbury dwelt Sir Adam de Cretings , famous in Edward the thirds warres of France , whose Heyre Generall Wanton doth now possesse it . Staunton giuen by the first William to Gilbert de Gaunt , after the death issuelesse of De Rupes , escheated to the King , who gaue it to Ioan his sister Queene of Scots . She on the Abbey of Tarent bestowed part , the rest reuerting being giuen to Segraue descended to the Barons of Berkly , Godmanchester , or Gormonchester , ( so named of that Dane to whom Aelfred at his conuersion granted some regiment in these parts ) was the olde land of the Crowne , now the Inhabitants in fee farme , by grant of King Iohn , pro Sexies viginti libris pondere & numero . It is flat seated by as fruitfull and flowry Meadowes as any this Kingdome yeeldeth , and is the most spacious of any one Parish in fertile tillage , oft hauing waited on their Soueraigne Lords with ninescore Ploughes in a rurall pompe : Some from the name Gunicester ( which this often beareth in record , ) suppose it the Citie where Machutus placed his Bishops Chayre . But for certaine it was that Romane Towne Durosipont , of the Bridges named , so many hundred yeares ( vntill the light of our Britain● Story ouershone it ) forgotten . Thus as this Citie so the olde Families haue beene here with time outworne , few onely ( of the many former ) now remaining , whose Surnames before the raigne of the last Henry were in this Shire of any eminency . But , Non indignemur mortalia Nomina solui , Cernimus exemplis Oppida posse mort . Let 's not repine that Men and names doe dye , Since stone-built Cities dead and ruin'd lye .

RVTLAND-SHIRE . CHAPTER XXIX .

RVTLAND-SHIRE , the least of any County in this Realme , is circulated vpon the North with Lincolne-shire ; vpon the East and South , by the Riuer Weland is parted from Northampton shire ; and the West is altogether held in with Leicester-shire .

(2) The forme thereof is round , and no larger in compasse then a light horse-man can easily ride about in a day ▪ vpon which occasion some will haue the Shire named of one Rut , that so rode . But others from the rednesse of the Soile , will haue it called Rutland , and so the old English-Saxons called it , for that Roet and Rut is in their tongue Red with vs , and may very well giue the name to this Prouince , seeing the earth doth staine the wooll of her sheepe into a reddish colour . Neither is it strange , that the staine of the soyle giues names vnto places , and that very many : for haue we not in Chesse-shire the Red Rocke , in Lancashire the Red Banke , and in Wales , Rutland Castle ? To speake nothing of that famous Red Sea which shooteth into the Land betwixt Egypt and Arabia , which gaue backe her waters for the Israelites to passe on foote : all of them named from the colour of the Soile .

(3) The longest part of this Shire is from Caldecot in the South vpon the Riuer Ey , 〈◊〉 to Thistleton a small Village seated in the North , not fully twelue miles : and from Timwell East-ward , to Wissenden in the West , her broadest extant , is hardly nine : the whole circumference about fortie miles .

(4) The ayre is good both for health and delight , subiect to neither extremity of heat nor cold , nor is greatly troubled with foggy mists .

The Soile is rich , and for Corne and tillage giues place vnto none . Woods there are plentie , and many of them imparked , hills feeding heards of Neate , and flockes of sheepe ; Vallies besprinkled with many sweet Springs ; Graine in abundance , and Pastures not wanting : in a word , all things ministred to the content of life , with a liberall heart and open hand Onely this is obiected , that the Circuit is not great .

(5) The draught whereof , that I may acknowledge my dutie and his right , I receiued at the hands of the right Honourable Iohn Lord Harrington , Baron of Exton , done by himselfe in his yonger yeares .

Neere vnto his house Burley , standeth Okham a faire Market-Towne , which Lordship the said Baron enioyeth , with a Royaltie somewhat extraordinary , which is this : If any Noble by birth come within the precinct of the same Lordship , he shall forfeit as an homage a shooe from the horse whereon he rideth , vnlesse he redeeme it at a price with money In witnesse whereof , there are many Horse-shooes nayled vpon the Shire-Hall doore , some of large size and ancient fashion , others new , and of our present Nobilitie ; whose names are thereupon stamped as followeth : Henry Hastings . Roger Rutland . Edward L. Russell , Earle of Bedford . Raphe L. Euwer of Parram . Henry L. Bertley . Henry L. Mordant . William L. Compton . Edward L. Dudley . Henry L. Winsor . George , Earle of Cumberland . Philip , Earle of Montgomery . L. Willoughby . P. L. Wharton . The Lord Shandois .

Besides many others without names .

That such homage was his due , the said Lord himselfe told me ; and at that instant a suit depended in Law against the Eirle of Lincolne , who refused to forfeit the penaltie , or to pay his sine .

(6) Her ancient Inhabitants knowne to the Romones , and mentioned in Ptolemit , were the Coritan● , and by him branched thorow Leicester , Lincolne , Nottingham , Darby-shire and this ; who with the Icemans were subdued by P. Ostorius vnder the yoke of Claudius the Roman Emperour : and at their departure , by conquest the Saxons made it a Prounce vnto their Mercian Kingdome , whose fortunes likewise comming to a full period , the Normans annexed it vnder their Crowne .

(7) This Countie King Edward Confessor bequeathed by his Testament vnto Queene Eadgith his wife , and after her decease vnto his Monastery at Westminster , which William the Conquerour cancelled and made voyd , bestowing the Lands vpon others , the Tithes and the Church vnto those Monkes ▪

That the Ferrers here first seated , besides the credit of Writers , the Horse-shooe whose badge then it was , doth witnesse ; where in the Castle , and now the Shire-hall , right ouer the Seat of the Iudge , a Horse-shooe of iron curiously wrought , containing fiue foot and a halfe in length , and the bredth thereto proportionably is fixed . The Castle hath beene strong , but now is decayed , the Church faire , and the Towne spacious ; whose degree of Longitude is 19. 46. scruples , and the North poles eleuation in Latitude 53. degrees and 7. minutes .

(8) Let it not seeme offensiue , that I ( to fill vp this little Shire , ) haue inserted the seate of a Towne not sited in this County : for besides the conueniency of place , the circuit and beautie , but especially it being for a time an Vniuersitie , did moue much ; yea , and the first in this Iland , if Iohn Hardings Author faile him not , that will haue Bladud to bring from Athens certaine Philosophers , whom here he seated , and made publike profession of the Liberall Sciences , where ( as he saith ) a great number of Scholars studied the Arts , and so continued an Vniuersitie vnto the comming of Augustine , at which time the Bishop of Rome interdicted it ; for certaine Heresies sprung vp among the Britaines and Saxons . But most true it is , that in the Raigne of King Edward the third , vpon debate falling betwixt the Southerne and Northerne Students at Oxford , many Schoole-men withdrew themselues hither , and a while professed , and named a Colledge , according to one in Oxford , Brasen-nose , which retaineth that name vnto this day . This was so great a skarre vnto the other , that when they were recalled by Proclamation to Oxford , it was prouided by Oath , that no Student in Oxford should publikely professeor reade the Arts at Stanford , to the preiudice of Oxford .

(9) As this Shire is the least in circuit , so is it with the fewest Market-Townes replenished hauing onely two . And from Societies that seed vpon the labours of others , was this Land the freest : for besides Rihall , where Tibba the F●lconers Goddesse was worshipped for a Saint , when Superstition had well-neere put Gods true honour out of place , I finde very few ; neither with more Castles strengthened then that at Okham , whose ruines shew that a Castle hath beene there .

LEICESTER-SHIRE . CHAPTER XXX .

LEICESTER-SHIRE , lying bordered vpon the North with Nottingham-shire ; vpon the East , with Lincolne and Rutland ; vpon the South with Northampton shire ; and vpon the West with Watling-street-way is parted from Warwick-shire ; the rest being bounded with the consines of Darby , is a Country Champion , abounding in corne , but spary of woods , especially in the South and East parts , which are supplyed with pit-coales plenteously gotten in the North of this Prouince , and with abundance of Cattle bred in the hilles beyond the Riuer Wreak , which is nothing so well inhabited as the rest .

(2) The Ayre is gentle , milde , and temperate , and giueth appetite both to labour and rest : wholesome it is , and draweth mans life to a long age , and that much without sicknesse ; at Carleton onely some defect of pronunciation appeareth in their speech .

(3) The soile thus consisting , the commodities are raised accordingly of Corne , Cattle , and Coales ; and in the Rockes neere Beuer are sometimes found the Astroites , the Starre-like precious Stone .

(4) The ancient people that inhabited this Countie , were the Coritani , who were spread further into other Shires , but after that the Romans had left the Land to it selfe , this with many more fell to be vnder the possession and gouernment of the Mercians , and their Kings , from whom the English enioyeth it at this day .

(5) In Circular-wise ( almost ) the compasse of this Shire is drawne indifferently spacious , but not very thicke of Inclosures , being from East to West in the broadest part not fully 30. miles , and from North to South but 24. the whole circumference about 196. miles ; whose principall Citie is set , as the Center , almost in the midst ; from whom the Pole is eleuated 53. degrees and 4 minutes in Latitude , and for Longitude , 19. degrees , 22. minutes .

(6) From this Towne the Shire hath the name , though the name of her selfe is diuersly written , as Legecestria , Legora , Legeo-cester : by Ninius , Caer-Lerion ; by Mathew of Westminister ( if we doe not mistake him ) Wirall ; and now lastly , Leicester : ancient enough if King Leir was her builder , eight hundred fortie and foure yeares before the birth of our Sauiour , wherein he placed a Flamine to serue in the Temple of Ianus , by himselfe there erected , and where he was buried , if Ieffery ap Arthur say true : but now certaine it is , that Ethelred the Mercian Monarch made it an Episcopall See , in the yeare of Christ Iesus 680. wherein Sexwulph of his election became the first Bishop : which shortly after was thence translated , and therewith the beautie of the Towne began to decay ; vpon whose desolations that erectifying Lady Edelsted cast her eyes of compassion , and both reedified the buildings , and compassed it about with a strong wall , where , in short time the Cities trade so increased , that Matthew Paris in his lesser Story reporteth as followeth ; Lege-cester ( saith he ) is a right wealthy Citie , and notably defended ; and had the wall a sure foundation , were inferiour to no Citie whatsoeuer . But this pride of prosperitie long lasted not vnder the Normans , for it was sore oppressed with a world of calamities , when Robert Bossu the Crouch-backe Earle of that Prouince , rebelled against his Soueraigne Lord King Henry the second : whereof heare the same Author Paris speake : Through the obstinate stubbornesse of Earle Robert ( saith he ) the noble Citie Leicester was besieged and throwne downe by King Henry , and the wall that seemed indissoluble , was vtterly raced , euen to the ground . The peeces of whose fragments so fallen downe , remained in his dayes like to hard rockes , through the strength of the Morter cementing whole lumpes together : and at the Kings command the Citie was set on fire and burnt , the Castle raced , and a heauit imposition laid vpon the Citizens , who with great summes of money bought their owne Banishments : but were so vsed in their departure , that for extreame feare many of them tooke Sanctuary , both at S. Edmunds and S. Albanes . In repentance of these mischiefes , the Author thereof , Earle Robert , built the Monastery of S. Mary de Praetis , wherein himselfe became a Canon regular , and for fifteene yeares continuance in sad laments serued God in continuall prayers . With the like deuotion , Henry the first Duke of Lancaster built an Hospitall for an hundred and ten poore people , with a Collegiate Church , a Deane , twelue Canons Prebendaries , as many Vicars , sufficiently prouided for with reuenewes ; wherein himselfe lyeth buryed : and it was the greatest ornament of that Citie , vntil the hand of King Henry the 8. lay ouer-heaiue vpon all the like foundations , and laid their aspired tops at his owne feete .

The fortunes of another Crouch-backe ( King Richard the V●●●per ) were no lesse remarkable in this Citie then the former Robert was , both of them in like degree of dishonourable course of life , though of disterent issue at their deaths , the one dying penitent and of deuout esteeme ; the other leauing the stench of Tyranny to all following ages ; who from this Citie setting forth in one day with great pompe , and in Battle aray , to keepe the Crowne sure vpon his owne Helmet , in a sore 〈◊〉 field , yeelded both it and his life , vnto the head and hands of Henry of Richmond his Conquerour : and the next day was brought backe , like a Hogge , naked and 〈◊〉 and with contempt , without teares 〈◊〉 buried in the G●●y-Fryers of this Citie ; whose suppression hath suppressed the plot place of his graue , and onely the stone-chest wherein he was laid ( a drinking trough now for horses in a common In●e ) retaineth the memory of that great Monarchs Funerall : and so did a stone in the Church and Chappell of S. Maries , inclose the corpse of the proud and pontificall Cardinall Wolsey , who had prepared for himselfe , as was said , a farre more richer Monument .

(7) Otherplaces worthy of remembrance in this Shire were these : In the West , where a high Crosse was erected , in former times stood the faire Citie Cleycester , the Romans BENONNES , where their Legions lay , and where their two principall wayes crossed each other , as the Inhabitants report ; Loughborrow in the North-verge , was ( as Marianus affirmeth ) taken from the Britaines by Cuthwolfe their King , about the yeare of Christ 572.

At Redmore , neere Bosworth , Westward in this Countie , the Kingdome of England lay in hazard of one Battle , when King Richards Field was fought , where the Land at once was freed from a Tyrant and a wicked Vsurper . Neither may we passe Lutterworth , as the least in account , where the famous Iohn Wickliffe , Englands Morning-starre , dispersed the clouds of all Papisticall darknesse , by preaching the Gospell in that his charge ; and stile of his pen , so piercing in power , that the man of Sinne euer since hath beene better knowne to the world .

(8) Religious houses by Princes erected , and by them deuoted to God and his seruice , the chiefest in this Shire were at Leicester , Grace-Dieu , Kerby Bellers , and at Burton a Spittle for Lazers , a disease then newly approched in this Land ; for the erection whereof a common contribution was gathered thorow the Realme : the Patients in this place were not so much deformed in skin , as the other were in the defects for the soule ; whose skirts being turned vp to the sight of the world , their s●●mes were discouered , and those houses dissolued , that had long maintained such Idolatrous sinnes .

LINCOLN-SHIRE . CHAPTER XXXI .

THe County of Lincolne , by the Normans called Nicolshire , is consined on the North with Humber , on the East with the German Ocean , vpon the South is parted from Cambridge and Northampton-shire by the Riuer Nyne ; and on the West from Nottingham and York-shires by Dun and Trent .

(2) The length of this Prouince extended from Barton vpon Humber in the North , vnto Stanford vpon the Riuer Nyne in the South , are miles by our English measure fiftie fiue , and the bredth thereof from Newton in the West , stretched vnto Wintbory vpon her East Sea containeth thirtie fiue . The whole in circumference about one hundred and eightie miles .

(3) The Ayre vpon the East and South part is both thicke and foggy , by reason of the Fennes and vnsolute grounds , but therewithall very moderate and pleasing . Her graduation being remoued from the Aequator to the degree of 53. and the windes that are sent of her still working Seas , doe disperse those vapours from all power of hurt .

(4) The forme of this County doth somewhat resemble the body of a Lute , whose East coasts lye bowe-like into the German Ocean , all along pestered with inlets of salt waters and sands , which are neither firme nor safe for trauellers , as those in the South proued vnto King Iohn who matching North-ward from Northfolke , against his disloyall Barons , vpon those washes 〈…〉 and carriage by the sodaine returne of the Sea , and sofenesse of the sands .

(5) Her Soile vpon the West and North is abundantly 〈◊〉 , pleasant , 〈…〉 pasturage , areable and meadowing grounds : the East and South fenny and 〈…〉 barren ; but for fowle and fish exceeding any other in the Realme ; wherein , at some times and season of the yeare , hath beene taken in nets , in August , at one draught , aboue three thousand Mallards , and other Fowles of the like kinde .

(6) The Shires commodities consist chiefly in Corne , Cattle , Fish , Fowle , Flax and Alablaster ; as also in a Plaister much esteemed of by the Romans for their workes of Imagery ; and whereof Plinie in his Naturall History maketh mention . And the Astroites , a precious stone , Star-like , pointed with fiue beames or rayes , anciently esteemed for their vertue in victories , vpon the South-west of this County neere Beuer are found : not farre thence in our Fathers memory , at Harlaxton was ploughed vp a brasen vessell , wherein was inclosed a golden Helmet of an ancient fashion , set with precious stones , which was presented to Kathren of Spaine , Wife and Dowager to King Henry the eight ▪

(7) This Shire triumpheth in the births of Beauclerke , King Henry the first , whom Selby brought forth , and of King Henry the fourth , at Bullingbrooke borne : but may as iustly lament for the death of King Iohn , herein poysoned by S●non a Monke of Swynsted Abbey ; and of Queene Eleanor , wife to King Edward the first , the mirrour of wedlocke , and loue to the Commons , who at Hardby , neere Bullingbrooke , his birth place , ended her life .

(8) Trade and commerce for prouision of life is vented thorow thirtie one Market-Townes in this Shire , whereof Lincolne the Counties namer is chiefe , by Ptolemie and Antonine called Lindum , by Beda Linde-collma , and by the Normans , Nichol. Very ancient it is , and hath beene more magnificall , as by her many ouerturned ruines doth appeare , and farre more populous , as by Demesdayes Booke is seene , where it is recorded that this Citie contained a thousand and seauen Mansions , and nine hundred Burgesses , with twelue Lage-men , hauing Sac and Soc. And in the Normans time , saith Malmesbury , it was one of the best peopled Cities of England , being a place for trafficke of Merchandize for all commerce by Land or Sea . Herein King Edward the third ordained his Staple for the Mart of Wools , Leather , and Lead ; and no lesse then fiftie Parish . Churches did beautifie the same : but now containeth onely fifteene besides the Cathedrall . Some ruines yet remaines both of Frieries and Nunneries , who lye now buried in their owne ashes , and the Citie conquered not by warre , but by time and very age : and yet hath she not escaped the calamitie of sword , as in the time of the Saxons ; whence Arthur enforced their Host : the like also did Edmund to the destroying Danes ; and by the Normans it suffered some dammage , where King Stephen was vanquished and taken prisoner ; and againe , by the third Henry , that assaulted and wan it from his rebellious Barons . By fire likewise it was fore defaced , wherein not onely the buildings were consumed , but withall many men and women in the violence thereof perished : as also by an Earth-quake her foundation was much weakened and shaken , wherein the faire Cathedrall Church , dedicated to the Virgin of Virgins , was rent in peeces . The gouernment of this Citie is committed yearely to a Maior , tow Sheriffes , twelue Aldermen in Scarlet , a Sword , a Hat of Estate , a Recorder , Sword-bearer , and foure Sergeants with Maces : whose situation on a sleepe hill standeth , for Longitude in the degree 20. 10. scruples , the Pole eleuated for Latitude from the degree 53. and 50. scruples .

(9) Much hath beene the deuotion of Princes in building religious houses in this Countie , as at Crowland , Lincolne , Markeby , Leyborne , Grenfeld , Aluingham , Newnersby , Grymmysby , Newsted , Elsham , Stay●feld , Syxhyll , Torkesey , Bryggerd , Thorneholme , Nuncotton , Fosse , Heyings , Axholme I le , Goykewell , S. Michaels neere Stamford , Swyn●shead , Spalding , Kirkested , &c.

( 10 ) Commotions in this Shire were raysed the eight and twentieth of King Henry the Eight , where twentie thousand making insurrection , violently sware certaine Lords and Gentlemen to their Articles . But no sooner they heard of the Kings power comming , but that they dispersed themselues , and sued for pardon . And againe in the third yeare of King Edward the Sixt , in case of Inclosu●es , Lincolne , rose in seditious manner , as did they of Cornwall , Deuon-shire , York-shire , and Norfolke : but after some flaughters of their chiefest men , were reduced to former obedience .

NOTTINGHAM-SHIRE . CHAPTER XXXII .

NOTTINGHAM-SHIRE ( from Nottingham her chiefest Towne hath the name ; and that , somewhat softned from the Saxons Snoddenzaham , for the many Dennes or Caues wrought in her Rocks and vnder ground ) lyeth bordered vpon the North & North west with York-shire ; vpon the East a good distance by Trent is parted froM , and with Lincoln-shire altogether confined : the South with Leicester-shire ; and the West by the Riuer Erwash is seperated from Darby-shire .

(2) For forme long and Ouall-wise , doubling in length twice her bredth , whose extreames are thus extended and distance obserued : From Finingley North to Sleanford in the South , are thirtie eight English miles ; her West part from Teuersall to Besthorp in the East , are little more then nineteene ; whose circumference draweth much vpon one hundred and ten miles .

(3) The Ayre is good , wholesome and delectable : the Soile is rich , sandy and clayie , as by the names of that Counties diuisions may appeare : and surely for Corne and Grasse so fruitfull , that it secondeth any other in the Realme : and for Water , Woods , and Canell Coales abundantly stored .

(4) Therein groweth a Stone softer then Alablaster , but being burnt maketh a plaister harder then that of Paris : wherewith they flower their vpper roomes ; for betwixt the Ioysts they lay onely long Bulrushes , and thereon spread this Plaister , which being throughly dry becomes most solide and hard , so that it seemeth rather to be firme stone then mortar , and is trod vpon without all danger .

In the West neere Worksop groweth plentie of Liquorice , very delicious and good .

(5) More South in this Shire , at Stoke , in the Raigne of King Henry the seauenth , a great battle was fought by Iohn De-la-Pole Earle of Lincolne , which Richard the Vsurper had declared his heire apparant ; but Richard losing his life , and De-la Pole his hopes , in seeking here to set vp a Lambert , fell downe himselfe : and at Newarke after many troubles King Iohn got his peace with the end of his life .

(6) Trade and commerce for the Counties prouision is frequented in eight Market-Townes in this Shire , whereof Nottingham is both the greatest and best : a Towne seated most pleasant and delicate vpon a high hill , for buildings stately , and number of faire streets , surpassing and surmounting many other Cities , and for a spacious and most faire Market-place , doth compare with the best Many strange Vaults hewed out of the Rockes , in this Towne are seene ; and those vnder the Castle of an especiall note , one for the story of Christs Passion engrauen in the Walls , and cut by the hand of Dauid the second King of Scots , whilst he was therein detained prisoner . Another wherein Lord Mortimer was surprised in the non-age of King Edward the Third , euer since beating the name of Mortimers Hole ; these haue their staires and seuerall roomes made artifically euen out of the Rockes : as also in that hill are dwelling houses , with winding staires , windowes , chimneys , and roome aboue roome , wrought all out of the solide Rocke . The Castle is strong , and was kept by the Danes against Burthred , Ethelred , and Elfred , the Mercian , and West-Saxon Kings , who together laid their siege against it : and for the further strength of the Towne , King Edward , surnamed the Elder , walled it about , whereof some part as yet remaines , from the Castle to the West-gate , and thence the foundation may be perceiued to the North ; where in the midst of the way ranging with this banke , stands a gate of Stone , and the same tract passing along the North part may well be perceiued : the rest to the Riuer , and thence to the Castle are built vpon , and thereby buried from sight : whose circuit , as I tooke it , extendeth two thousand one hundred and twentie pases .

(7) In the Warres betwixt Stephen and Maud the Empresse , by Robert Earle of Glocester these Wells were east downe , when also the Towne it selfe suffered the calamitie of fire : but recouered to her former estate , hath since increased in beautie and wealth , and at this day is gouerned by a Maior and sixe Aldermen , clad in Scarlet , two Sheriffes , two Chamberlaines , a Towne-clerke , and sixe Sergeants with Maces , their Attenders : whose position hath the Pole eleuated fiftie three degrees . 25. minutes in Latitude , and hath the Meridian nine degrees and 25. minutes . This Towne hath beene honoured by these Princes titles , and these Princes dignified with the Earledome of Nottingham , whose seuerall Armes and Names are in the great Map expressed .

Religious houses that haue beene erected and now suppressed in the compasse of this Countie , chiefly were Newsted , Lenton , Shelford , Southwell , Thurgarton , Blith , Welbeck and Radford ; in Nottingham the White and Gray Fryers , besides a little Chappell dedicated to Saint Iohn . All which shew the deuotions of those former times : which their remembrance may moue , if not condemne vs , that haue more knowledge , but farre lesse pietie .

DARBY-SHIRE . CHAPTER XXXIII .

DARBY-SHIRE , lyeth inclosed vpon her North parts with Yorke-shire ; vpon the East with Nottingham-shire ; vpon the South with Leicester-shire ; and vpon the West is parted with the Riuers Doue and Goyt from Stafford and Chesse-shires .

(2) It is in forme somewhat triangle , though not of any equall distance , growing from her narrow South-point still wider , and in the North is at the broadest : for from Stretton neere the head of Mese , to New-Chapell seated neere the head of Derwent , the two extreames from North to South are thirtie eight miles : but from the Shire-Oakes vnto the meeting of Mersey and Goyt , the broadest part of all this Shire , is not fully twentie nine ; the whole in circumference extendeth to an hundred and thirtie miles .

(3) The ayre is good and very healthfull : the sile is rich , especially in her South and East parts : but in the North and West is hilly , with a blacke and mossie ground , both of them fast handed , to the Ploughers paines , though very liberall in her other gifts : whose natures thus dissenting , the Riuer Derwent doth diuide asunder , that taketh course thorow the heart or midst of this Countie .

The ancient people that possessed these parts in the times of the Romans assaults , were the Coritani , whom Ptolemie disperseth thorow Northampton-shire , Leicester , Rutland , Lincolne , Nottingham , and this Shire , who were all of them subdued by P. Ostorius Scapula , Lieutenant in this Prouince for Claudius the Emperour . But Romes Empire failing in Britaine , by the intestine Warres among themselues , the Saxons ( a more sauage and fearefull Nation ) soone brought it vnder their subiection , and made this a Prouince vnto their Mercians Kingdome , whom the West-Saxons first wanne and againe lost to the Normans .

(5) It is stored with many Commodities , and them of much worth ; for besides Woods and Cattle , Sheepe and Corne , euery where ouer-spreading the face of this Countie , the Mill-stone , Crystall , and Allablas●er , the Mines of Pit-coale , Iron , and Lead , are of great price : whereof the last is mentioned in Flinie , who writeth that in Britaine , in the very crust of the ground , without any deepe digging , is gotten so great store of Lead , that there is a Law expresly made of purpose , forbidding men to make more then to a certaine stint . Whose stones are plenteously gotten in those Mountaines , and melted into Sowes , to no small profit of the Countrey . There is found also in certaine veines of the earth , Subium which the Apothecarits call Antimonium , and the Al●thmists hold in great esteeme .

(6) Places for commerce , or memorable note , the first is Darby , the Shire-Towne , called by the Danes De●aby , seated vpon the West banke of Derwent , where also a small Brooke rising Westward , runneth thorow the Towne vnder nine Bridges , before it meets with her farre greater Riuer Derwent , which presently it doth , after she hath passed Tenant Bridge in the South-East of the Towne . But a Bridge of more beautie , built all of Free-stone , is passed ouer Derwent in the North-East of the Towne , whereon standeth a faire stone Chapell , and both of them bearing the names of S. Maries : fiue other Churches are in this Towne , the chiefest whereof is called A●hallowes , whose Steeple or Bell-Tower being both beautifull and high , was built onely at the charges of young men and maids , as is witnessed by the inscription cut in the same vpon euery square of the Steeple . Among the miserable desolations of the Danes , this Towne bare a part , but by Lady Ethelfleda was againe repaired , and is at this day in●orporated with the yearely gournment of two Bailiffes , elect out of twentie-foure brethren , besides as many Burgesses of Common Counsell , a Recorder , Towne-Clerke , and two Sergeants with Mace : whose Graduation is obserued from the Equator to be 53. degrees 25. scruples , and from the first point in the West , 19. degrees 2. scruples .

(7) Little-Chester ( by the Romish Mony there daily found ) seemeth to haue beene ancient , and that a Colonie of the Roman Souldiers there lay . Yet of farre greater fame was Repandunum , now Repton , where Ethelbald the ninth King of the Mercians , and fifteenth Monarch of the Englishmen , slaine at Seggeswald by the treason of his Subiects , was interred : and whence Burthred , the last King of that people , was expulsed with his Queene Ethelswith , by the rage of the Danes , after twentie two yeares raigne . But with a more pleasing eye we may behold Melborne , the memoriall of Englishmens great valour , where in that Castle was kept Prisoner Iohn Duke of Burbon , taken captiue in the Battle of Agincourt , and therein detained the space of nineteene yeares .

(8) Things of stranger note are the hot Water-springs , bursting forth of the ground at Buxton , where out of the Rocke within the compasse of eight yards , nine springs arise , eight of them warme , but the ninth very cold . These run from vnder a faire square building of free-stones , and about three-score paces off , receiue another hot spring from a Well , inclosed with foure flat stones , called Saint Annes ; neere vnto which , another very cold spring bubled vp . The report goeth among the by-dwellers , that great cures by these waters haue beene done : but daily experience sheweth , that they are good for the stomacke and sinewes , and very pleasant to bathe the body in . Not farre thence is Elden hole , whereof strange things haue beene told , and this is confidently affirmed , the waters that trickle from the top of that Caue ( which indeed is very spacious , but of a low and narrow entrance ) doe congeale into stone , and hang as ickles in the roofe . Some of them were shewed at my being there , which like vnto such as the frost congealeth , were hollow within , and grew Taper-wise towards their points , very white , and somewhat Crystall-like . And seauen miles thence , vpon a mounted hill , standeth a Castle , vnder which there is a hole or Caue in the ground of a marueilous capacitie , which is commonly called The Deuils Arse in the Peake , whereof Geruase of Tilbury hath told many pretie tales , and others doe make it one of the wonders of our Land .

(9) As in other Counties the deuotions of the religious haue beene made apparent in the erection of places for Gods peculiar seruice ; so in this haue beene founded eight of that nature , which were Dale , Detelege , Darby , Rep●on , Bechif , Grai●sley , Fauerwell , and Pollewerke : whose peace and plentie stood secure from all danger , till the blustering windes arising in the Raigne of King Henry the eight , blew off the pinacles of their beauteous buildings , and shooke asunder the reuenewes of those Foundations which neuer are like againe to be laid .

STAFFORD-SHIRE . CHAPTER XXXIIII .

STAFFORD-SHIRE , whose situation is much about the middle of England , meeteth vpon the North with Chesse-shire and Darby , and that in a Triangle point , where three stones are pitched for the bounds of these Shires ; it is parted from Darby shire on the East with Dowe and with Trent ; the South is confined with Warwicke and Worcester-shires , and the West butteth against the Countie of Shrop-shire .

The forme thereof is somewhat Lozeng-like , that is , sharpe at both ends , and broadest in the midst . The length extending from North to South , is by measure fortie foure miles ; and the bredth from East to West , twenty seauen miles ; the whole in circumference one hundred and fortie miles .

(3) The ayre is good and very healthfull , though ouer-sharpe in her North and Moreland , where the snow lyeth long , and the winde bloweth cold .

(4) The Soile in that part is barren of Corne , because her hilles and Mores are no friends vnto Tillage : the middle is more leuell , but therewithall wooddie , as well witnesseth that great one , called the Cank . But the South is most plenteous in Corne and Pasturage .

(5) Her ancient Inhabitants were the CORNAVII , whom Ptolemie placeth in the Tract that containeth Shrop-shire , Worcester-shire , Chesse-shire , and this : all which were possessed by the Mercian-Saxons when their Heptarchy flourished . And Tameworth in this Shire was then held their Kings Court . The Danes after them often aflayed herein to haue seated , as witnesseth Ternall , then Th●●tenhall , by interpretation , The habitation of Pagans , ●●brued with their bloud by King Edward the elder . But the Inhabitants of this Prouince Beda tearmes The midland Englishmen , because to his seeming it lay in the heart of the Land , which when the Normans had made Conquest of all , many of them set downe their rest here , whose posteritie at this day are fairely and further branched into other parts .

(6) The Commodities of this Countie consist chiefly in Corne , Cattle , Alablaster , Woods , and Iron , ( if the one proue not the destruction of the other ) Pit-coale , Flesh and Fish , whereof the Riuer Trent is said to swarme : and others arising and running thorow this Shire , doe so batten the ground , that the Meadowes euen in the midst of Winter grow greene ; such are Dowe , Manifold , Churnot , Hunsye , Yenden , Tean , Elith , Trent . Tyne , and Sowe ; whereof Trent is not onely the principall , but in esteeme accounted the third of this Land .

(7) Stafford the Snire-Towne , anciently Betheney , from Bertelin , a reputed holy man that therein lead an Hermits life , was built by King Edward the elder , incorporated by King Iohn , and vpon the East and South parts was walled and trenched by the Barons of the place ; the rest from East to North was secured by a large Poole of water , which now is become faire Meadow grounds . The tract and circuit of these welles extended to twelue hundred and fortie pases , thorow which foure Gates into the foure winds haue passage , the Riuer Sowe running on the South and West of the Towne . King Edward the sixt did incorporate the Burgesses , and gaue them a perpetuall succession , whose gouernment is vnder two Bailiffes yearely elected out of one and twentie Assistants , called the Common Counsell , a Recorder , whereof the Dukes of Buckingham haue borne the Office , and as yet is kept a Court of Record , wherein they hold Plea without limitation of summe ; a Towne-Clerke also , ( from whose Pen I receiued these Instructions ) and to attend them two Sergeants at Mace . This Towne is sited in the degree of Latitude 53. 20. scruples , and of Longitude 18. and 40. scruples .

(8) But Leichfield , more large , and of farre greater same , is much her ancient , knowne vnto Beda by the name of Licidfeld , which Rosse doth interpret to be The field of deadbodies , for the number of Saints vnder the rage of Dioclesia● there slaine : vpon which cause the Citie beareth for her Armes an Eschocheon of Landskip , with diuers Martyrs in diuers manner massacred . Here Oswin King of Northumberland ouer-comming the Pagan-Mercians , built a Church and made it the See of Duina the Bishop ; whose successors growne rich , with golden reasons so ouercame King Offa , and the Adrian the Pope , that an Archiepiscopall Pale was granted Bishop Eadulph , to the great disgrace of Lambert Arch-bishop of Canterbury . In this Church were interred the bodies of Wulshere and Celred , both of them Kings of the Mercians . But when the mindes of men were set altogether vpon gorgeous building , this old foundation was new reared by Roger Clinton , Bishop of this See , and dedicated to the Virgin Mary and Saint Chad , and the Close inwalled by Bishop Langton . The gouernment of this Citie is by two Bailiffes and one Sheriffe , yearely chosen out of twentie-foure Burgesses , a Recorder , a Towne-Clerke , and two Sergeants their Attendants .

(9) Houses of Religion erected in this Shire , were at Leichfield , Stafford , De la Crosse , Cru●den , Trentham , Burton , Tamworth , and Woluer-hampt●n . These Votaries abusing their Founders true pieties , and heaping vp riches with disdaine of the Laitie , laid themselues open as markes to be shot at ; whom the hand of the skilfull soone hit and quite pierced , vnder the ayme of King Henry the eight , who with such Reuenewes in most places relieued the poore and the Orphane , with Schooles and maintenance for the training vp of youth : a worke no doubt more acceptable to God , and of more charitable vse to the Land .

SHROP-SHIRE . CHAPTER XXXV .

SHROP-SHIRE , is both large incircuit , well peopled , and very fruitfull for life . It lieth circulated vpon the North with the County Palatine of Chester ; vpon the East altogether with Stafford-shire ; vpon the South with Worcester , Hereford , and Raduor-shires ; and vpon the West with Mountgomery and Denbigh .

(2) The forme thereof is almost ciruclar or round , whose length from Weo●erto● below ●odlane South , to Ouer neere vnto the Riuer Trent in the North , is thirtie foure miles : the broadest part is from Tong in the East , to Oswestre sited at the head of Morda in the West , twentie and fiue miles ; the whole in circuit about , extending to one hundred thirtie and foure miles .

(3) Wholesome is the Aire , delectable and good , yeelding the Spring and the Autmne Seede time and Haruest , in a temperate condition , and affoordeth health to the Inhabitants in all seasons of the yeare .

(4) The soile is rich , and standeth most vpon a reddish Clay , abounding in Wheat and Barley , Pit-coales , Iron , and Woods ; which two last continue not long in league together . It hath Riuers that make fruitfull the Land , and in their waters containe great store of fresh-fish , whereof Seuer●e is the chiefe , and second in the Realme , whose streame cutteth this Countie in the middest , and with many windings sporteth her selfe forward , leauing both pastures and meadowes be●●●●ed with flowers and greene colours , which euery where she bestoweth vpon such her attendants .

(5) This Riuer was once the bounds of the North-Britaines , and diuided their possession from the Land of the Saxons , vntill of latter times theirs began to decay , and the Welsh to increase , who enlarged their lists to the Riuer Dee . So formerly had it separated the Ordouices from the Cornauji , those ancient Inhabitants mentioned by Ptolemie . The Ordouices vnder Caractachus purchased great honour , whilest he a Prince of the Silures remoued his warres thence among them , where a while he maintained the Britaines libertie with valour and courage , in despight of the Romans . His Fort is yet witnesse of his vnfortunate fight , seated neere Clune Castle , at the confluence of that Riuer with Temd , where ( in remembrance of him ) the place is yet called Caer-Caradoc , a Fort of his , wonne by P. Ostorius Lieutenant of the Romans , about the yeare of grace 53. The Cornauji were feared vpon the North of Scuerne , and branched into other Counties , of whom we haue said .

(6) But when the strength of the Romans was too weake to support their owne Empire , and Britaine emptied of her Souldiers to resist , the Saxons set foot in this most faire soile , and made it a part of their Mercian Kingdome : their line likewise issued to the last period , and the Normans beginning where these Saxons left , the Welshmen tooke aduantage of all present occasions , and brake ouer Seuerne vnto the Riuer Dee ; to recouer which , the Normans first Kings often affayed , and Henry the second with such danger of life , that at the siege of Bridge-north he had beene slaine , had not Sir H●bert Syncler receiued the arrow aimed at him , in stepping betwixt that Shaft and his Soueraigne , and therewith was shot thorow vnto death . In the like danger stood Henry Prince of Scotland , who in the strait siege of Ludlow , begirt by King Stephen , had beene plucked from his saddle with an iron hooke from the wall , had not Stephen presently rescued him , Anno 1139.

(7) This then being the Marches of England and Wales , was sore afflicted by bloudy broiles , which caused many of their Townes to be strongly walled , and thirtie two Castles to be strongly built : lastly , into this Countie the most wise King Henry the seauenth sent his eldest sonne Prince Arthur , to be resident at Ludlow , where that faire Castle became a most famous Princes Court . And here King Henry the eight ordained the Counsell of the Marches , consisting of a Lord President , as many Counsellers as the Prince shall please , a Secretary , an Atturney , a Soliciter , and foure Iustices of the Counties in Wales , in whose Court were pleaded the causes depending and tearmely tried for the most part in presence of that honourable President .

(8) But the Shire-Towne Shrewesburie , for circuit , trade , and wealth , doth farre exceed this , and is inferiour to few of our Cities ; her buildings faire , her streets many and large , her Citizens rich , her trade for the most part in the staple commodities of Cloth and Freeses ; her wals strong , and of a large compasse , extending to seauenteene hundred pases about , besides another Bulwarke ranging from the Castle , downe vnto , and in part along the side of Seuerne : thorow which there are three entrances into the Towne , East & West ouer by two faire stone-bridges with Towers , Gates , and Barres , and the third into the North , no lesse strong then them , ouer which is mounted a large Castle , whose gaping chinkes doe doubtlesse threaten her fall . This Towne is gouerned by two Bailiffes , yearely elected out of twentie-foure Burgesses , a Recorder , Towne-Clerke , and Chamberlaine , with three Sergeants at Mace : the Pole being raised hence from the degrees of Latitude 53. 16. minutes , and from West in Longitude 17. degrees 27. minutes .

(9) Yea , and ancienter Cities haue beene set in this Shire : such was Roxalter , or Wroxcester , lower vpon Seuerne , that had beene Vricomum the chiefest Citie of the Cornauij ; Vsoconia , now Okenyate , neere vnto the Wrekin : and vnder Red-Castle the ruines of a Citie , whom the vulgar report to haue beene famous in Arthurs dayes : but the peeces of Romish Coines in these three doe well assure vs that therein their Legions lodged ; as many other Trenches are signes of warre and of bloud . But as swords haue beene stirring in most parts of this Prouince , so Beads haue beene bid for the preseruation of the whole , and places erected for the maintenance of Votaries , in whom at that time was imputed great holinesse : in Shrewesbury many , at Cou●●ere , Stowe , Dudley , Bromefeld , Wigmore , Hamond , Lyleshill , Bildas , Bishops-castle , and Wenloke , ( where in the Raigne of Richard the second ; was likewise a rich Mine of Copper . ) But the same blasts that blew downe the buds of such plants , scattered also the fruits from these faire trees , which neuer since bare the like , nor is likely any more to doe .

That onely which is rare in this Prouince , is a Well at Pichford in a priuate mans yard , whereupon floteth a thicke skum of liquid Bitumen , which being cleare off to day , will gather the like againe on the morrw : not much vnlike to the Lake in the Land of Iewry .

The Countie Palatine of CHESTER . CHAPTER XXXVI .

CHESSE-SHIRE ; the Countie Palatine of Chester , is parted vpon the North from Lanca-shire with the Riuer Mercy ; vpon the East by Mercey , Goit , and the Dane , is separated from Darby and Stafford-shires ; vpon the South toucheth the Counties of Shrop-shire and Flint ; and vpon the West with Dee is parted from Denbigh shire .

(2) The forme of this Countie doth much resemble the right wing of an Eagle , spreading it selfe from Wirall , and as it were with her pinion , or first feather , toucheth Yorke shire , betwixt which extreames , in following the windings of the Shires diuder from East to West , are 47. miles : and from North to South twentie-sixe miles . The whole circumference about one hundred fortie two miles .

(3) If the affection to my naturall producer blind not the judgement of this my suruey , for aire and soile it equale the best , and farre exceeds her neighbours the next Counties : for although the Climate be cold , and toucheth the degree of Latitude 54. yet the warmth from the Irish Seas melteth the Snow , and dissolueth the Ice sooner there then in those parts that are further off ; and so wholesome for life , that the Inhabitants generally attaine to many yeares .

(4) The Soile is fat , fruitfull , and rich , yeelding abundantly both profit and pleasures for man . The Champion grounds make glad the hearts of their Tillers : the Meadowes imbrodered with diuers sweet smelling flowers ; and the Pasture makes the Kines vdders to strout to the paile , from whom and wherein the best Cheese of all Europe is made .

(5) The ancient Inhabitants were the CORNAVII , who with Warwicke-shire , Worcester-shire , Stafford-shire , and Shrop-shire , spread themselues further into this Countie , as in Ptolemie is placed ; and the Cangi likewise if they be the Ceangi , whose remembrance was found vpon the shore of this Shire , on the surface of certaine pieces of Lead , in this manner inscribed ; IMP. DOMIT. AVO. GER. DE CEANG. These Cangi were subdued by P. Ostorius Seapula , immediately before his great victory against Caractacus , where , in the mouth of Deua he built a Fortresse at the backe of the Ordouices , to restraine their power , which was great in those parts , in the raigne of Vespasian the Emperour . But after the departure of the Romanes , this Prouince became a portion of the Saxon Mercians Kingdome : notwithstanding ( saith Ran Higden ) the Citie it selfe was hold by the Britaines vntill all fell into the Monarchy of Egbert .

Of the dispositions of the since Inhabitants heare Lucian the Monke ( who liued presently after the Conquest ) spake ; They are found ( saith he ) to differ from the rest of the English , partly better , and partly equall . In feasting they are friendly , at meat chearefull , in entertainement liberall , soone angry , and soone pacified , lauish in words , impatient of seruitude , mercifull to the afflicted , compassionate to the poore , kinde to their kindred , spary of labour , void of disimulation , not greedie meating , and far from dangerous practises .

And let me adde thus much , which Lucian could not ; namely , that this Shire hath neuer beene stained with the blot of rebellion , but euer stood true to their King and his Crowne : whose loyaltie Richard the second so farre found and esteemed , that he held his person most safe among them , and by authoritie of Parliament made the Countie to be a Principalitie , and stiled himselfe Prince of Chester .

King Henry the third gaue it to his eldest sonne Prince Edward , against whom Lewlyn Prince of Wales gathered a mightie Band , and with them did the Conntie much harme , euen vnto the Cities gates . With the like scarre-fires it had oft times beene affrighted , which they lastly defenced with a Wall made of the Welsh-mens heads , on the South side of Dee in Hanbridge .

The Shire may well be said to be a Seed-plot of Gentilitie , and the producer of many most ancient and worthy Families : neither hath any brought more men of valour into the Field , then Chesse-shire hath done , who by a generall speech , are to this day called The Chiefe of men : and for Natures endowments ( besides their noblenesse of mindes ) may compare with any other Nation in the world : their limmes straight and well-composed , their complexions faire , with a chearefull countenance ; and the Women for grace , feature , and beautie , inferiour vnto none .

(6) The Commodities of this Prouince ( by the report of Ranulphus the Monke of Chester ) are chiefly Corne , Cattle , Fish , Fowle , Salt , Mines , Metals , Meares , and Riuers , whereof the bankes of Dee in her West , and the Vale Royall in her midst , for fruitfulnesse of pasturage equals any other in the Land , either in graine from the Cow .

(7) These , with all other prouision for life , are traded thorow thirteene Market-Townes in this Shire , whereof Chester is the fairest , from whom the Shire hath the name . A Citie raised from the Fort of Ostorius , Lieutenant of Britaine for Claudius the Emperour , whither the twentieth Legion ( named Victrix ) were sent by Galba to restraine the Britaines : but growne themselues out of order , Iulius Agricola was appointed their Generall by Vespafian , as appeareth by Monies then minted , and there found ; and from them ( no doubt ) by the Britaines the place was called Caer Legion , by Ptolemie , Deunana ; by Antonine , Dena ; and now by vs West-Chester : but Henry Bradshawe will haue it built before Brute , by the Giant Leon Gaue● , a man beyond the Moone , and called by Marius the vanquisher of the Picts .

Ouer Deua or Dee a faire stone-bridge leadeth , built vpon eight Arches , at either end whereof is a Gate , from whence in a long Quadren-wise the wals do incompasse the Citie , high and strongly built , with foure faire Gates , opening into the foure windes , besides three Posternes , and seauen Watch-Towers , extending in compasse one thousand nine hundred and fortie paces .

On the South of this Citie is mounted a strong and stately Castle , round in forme , and the base Court likewise inclosed with a circular wall . In the North is the Minister , first built by Earle Leofrike to the honour of S. Werburga the Virgin , and after most sumptuously repaired by Hugh the first Earle of Chester of the Normans , now the Cathedrall of the Bishops See . Therein lyeth interred ( as report doth relate ) the body of Henry the fourth , Emperour of Almane , who leauing his Imperiall Estate , lead lastly therein an Hermites life .

This Citie hath formerly beene sore defaced ; first by Egfrid King of Northumberland , where he slew twelue hundred Christian Monkes , resorted thither from Bangor to pray . Againe by the Danes it was sore defaced , when their destroying feete had trampled downe the beautie of the Land . But was againe rebuilt by Edelfleada the Mercian Lady , who in this Countie , and Forrest of Delamer , built two fine Cities , nothing of them now remaining , besides the Chamber in the Forrest .

Chester in the dayes of King Edgar was in most flourishing estate , wherein he had the homage of eight other Kings , who rowed his Barge from S. Iohns to his Pallace , himselfe holding the Helme , as their supreme .

This Citie was made a County incorporate of it selfe by King Henry the seauenth , and is yearely gouerned by a Mator , with Sword and Mace borne before him in State , two Sheriffes , twentie-foure Aldermen , a Recorder , a Towne-Clerke , and a Sergeant of Peace , foure Sergeants , and sixe Yeomen .

It hath beene accounted the Key into Ireland , and great pitie it is that the Port should decay as it daily doth , the Sea being stopped to scoure the Riuer by a Causey that thwarteth Dee at her bridge . Within the wals of this Citie are eight Parish-Churches , S. Iohns the greater and lesser : in the Suburbs are the White Fryers , Blacke-Fryers , and Nunnery now suppressed , From which Citie the Pole is eleuated vnto the degree 53. 58. minutes of Latitude , and from the first point of the West in Longitude vnto the 17. degree and 18. minutes .

(8) The Earledome whereof was possessed from the Conquerour , till it fell lastly to the Crowne , the last of whom ( though not with the least hopes ) is Prince Henry , who to the Titles of Prince of Wales , and Duke of Cornwall , hath by Succession and right of Inheritance , the Earledome of Chester annexed to his other most happy Stiles : Vpon whose person I pray that the Angels of Iacobs God may euer attend ; to his great glory , and Great Britaines happinesse .

(9) If I should vrge credit vnto the report of certaine Trees , floating in Bagmere , onely against the deaths of the Heyres of the Breretons thereby seated , and after to sinke vntill the next like occasion : or inforce for truth the Prophecie which Leyland in a Poeticall fury forespake of Beeston Castle , highly mounted vpon a steepe hill : I should forget my selfe and wonted opinion , that can hardly beleeue any such vaine predictions , though they be told from the mouthes of credit , as Bagmere Trees are , or learned Leyland for Beeston , who thus writeth : The day will come when it againe shall mount his head aloft , If ● a Prophet may be heard from Seers that say so oft .

With eight other Castles this Shire hath beene strengthned , which were Ould-Castle , Shoclath , Shotwitch , Chester , Poulefourd , Dunham , Fr●desham , and Haulten : and by the Prayers ( as then was taught ) of eight religious houses therein seated , preserued ; which by King Henry the eight were suppressed : namely , Stanlowe , I●●ree , Maxf●ld , Norton , Bunbery , Combermere , Rud-heath , and Vale-Royall , besides the White and Blacke Fryers , and the Nunnery in Chester .

LANCA-SHIRE . CHAPTER XXXVII .

THE Countie Palatine of Lancaster ( famous for the foure Henries , the fourth , fift , sixt , and seauenth , Kings of England , deriued from Iohn of Gaunt Duke of Lancaster ) is vpon the South confined and parted by the Riuer Merscy , from the Countie Palatine of Chester ; the faire Countie of Darby-shire bordering vpon the East ; the large Country of Yorkeshire , together with Westmerland and Cumberland , being her kinde neighbours vpon the North , and the Sea called Ma●● Hebernicum embracing her vpon the West .

(2) The forme thereof is long , for it is so inclosed betweene Yorke shire on the East side , and the Irish Sea on the West , that where it boundeth vpon Cheshire on the South-side , it is broader , and by little and little more Northward it goeth ( confining vpon Westmerland ) the more narrow it groweth It containeth in length from Brathey Northward , to Halwood South-ward , fiftie seauen miles ; from Denton in the East , to F●rmby by Altmouth in the West , thirtie one ; and the whole circumference in compasse , one hundred three-score and ten miles .

(3) The Aire is 〈…〉 , not troubled with grosse vapours or foggy mists , by reason whereof the 〈…〉 long and healthfully , and are not subiect to strange and vnknowne deseases .

(4) The Soile for the generalitie is not very fruitfull , yet it produceth such numbers of Cattle , of such large proportion , and such goodly heads , and hornes , as the whole Kingdome of Spaine doth scarce the like ▪ It is a Country replenished with all necessaries for the vse of man , yeelding without any great labour , the commoditie of Corne , Flaxe , Grasse , Coales , and such like . The Sea also adding her blessing to the Land , that the people of that Prouince want nothing that serues either for the sustenance of nature , or the safetie of appetite ▪ They are plentifully furnished with all sorts of Fish , Flesh , and Fowles . Their principall fuell is Coale and Turffe , which they haue in great abundance , the Gentlemen reseruing their woods very carefully , as a beautie and principall ornament to their Mannors and houses . And though it be farre from London ( the capitall Citie of this Kingdome ) yet doth it euery yeare furnish her and many other parts of the Land besides , with many thousands of Cattle ( bred in this Country ) giuing thereby and otherwayes a firme testimony to the world , of the blessed abundance that it hath pleased God to enrich this noble Dukedome withall .

(5) This Counties ancient Inhabitants were the Brigantes , of whom there is more mention in the description of Yorkeshire , who by Claudius the Emperour were brought vnder the Roman subiection , that so held and made it their Seat , secured by their Garrisons , as hath beene gathered as well by many inscriptions found in walles and ancient monuments fixed in stones , as by certaine Altars erected in fauour of their Emperours . After the Romans , the Saxons brought it vnder their protection , and held it for a part of their Northumbrian Kingdome , till it was first made subiugate to the inuasion of the Danes , and then conquered by the victorious Normans , whose posterities from thence are branched further into England .

(6) Places of antiquitie or memorable note are these : the Towne of Manchester ( so famous , as well for the Market-place , Church , and Colledge , as for the resort vnto it for clothing ) was called Mancunium by Antonine the Emperour , and was made a Fort and Station of the Romans .

Riblechester ( which taketh the name from Rhibell , a little Riuer neere Clithero ) though it be a small Towne , yet by tradition hath beene called the richest Towne in Christendome , and reported to haue beene the Seat of the Romans , which the many Monuments of their Antiquities , Statues , peeces of Coine , and other seuerall inscription , digd vp from time to time by the Inhabitants , may giue vs sufficient perswasion to beleeue .

But the Shire-Towne is Lancaster , more pleasant in situation , then rich of Inhabitants , built on the South of the Riuer Lon , and is the same Longouicum , where ( as we finde in the Notice Prouinces ) a company of the Longo●icarians vnder the Lieutenant Generall of Britaine lay . The beautie of this Towne is in the Church , Castle , and Bridge : her streets many , and stretched farre in length . Vnto this Towne King Edward the third granted a Maior and two Bailiffes , which to this day are elected out of twelue Brethren , assisted by twentie-foure Burgesses , by whom it is yearely gouerned , with the supply of two Chamberlaines , a Recorder , Towne-Clerke , and two Sergeants at Mace . The eleuation of who●● Pole is in the degree of Latitude 54 and 58. scruples , and her Longitude remoued from the first West 〈◊〉 vnto the degree 17 and 4● . scruples .

(7) This Country in diuers places suffereth the force of many flowing Tides of the Sea , by which ( after a sort ) it doth violently rent asunder one part of the Shire from the other : as in Fournesse , where the 〈◊〉 displeased that the short should from thence shoot a maine way into the West , hath not obstinately ceased from time to time to flash and mangle it , and with his fell irruptions and boysterous Tides to de●oure it .

Another thing there is , not vnworthy to be recommended to memory , that in this Shire , not far from Fournesse Fell●s , the greatest standing water in all England ( called Winander-Mere ) lieth , stretched out for the space of ten miles , of wonderfull depth , and all paued with stone in the bottome : and along the Sea-side in many places may be seene heapes of sand , vpon which the people powre water , vntill it recouer a 〈◊〉 humour , which they afterwards boile with Turffes , till it become white salt .

(8) This Country , as it is thus on the one side freed by the naturall resistance of the Sea from the force of Inuasions , so is it strengthned on the other by many Castles and fortified places , that take away the opportunitie of making Roades and Incursions in the Country . And as it was with the first that felt the fury of the Saxons crueltie , so was it the last and longest that was subdued vnder the West-Saxons Monarchie .

(9) In this Prouince our noble Arthur ( who died laden with many trophics of honour ) is reported by Ninius to haue put the Saxons to flight in a memorable battle neere Duglasse , a little Brooke not farre from the Towne of Wiggin . But the attempts of warre , as they are seuerall , so they are vncertaine : for they made not Duke Wade happy in his successe , but returned him an vnfortunate vnterpriser in the Battle which he gaue to Arduiph King of Northumberland , at Billangho , in the yeare 798 So were the euents vncertaine in the Ciuill Warres of Yorke and Lancaster : for by them was bred and brought forth that bloudy diuision and fatall strife of the Noble Houses , that with variable successe to both parties ( for many yeares together ) molested the peace and quiet of the Land , and defiled the earth with bloud , in such violent manner , that it exceeded the horrour of those Ciuill Warres in Rome , that were betwixt Mariu● and Scylla , Pompey and Caesar , Octauius and Antony ; or that of the two renowned Houses Valoys and Eurbon , that a long time troubled the State of France : for in the diuision of these two Princely Families there were thirteene Fields sought , and three Kings of England , one Prince of Wales , twelue Dukes , one Marques , eighteene Earles , one Vicount , and three and twentie Barons , besides Knights and Gentlemen , lost their liues in the same . Yet at last , by the happy marriage of Henry the seauenth , King of England , next heire to the House of Lancaster , with Elizabeth daughter and heire to Edward the Fourth , of the House of Yorke , the white and red Roses were conioyned , in the happy vniting of those two diuided Families , from whence our thrice renowned Soueraigne Lord King Iames , by faire sequence and succession , doth worthily enioy the Di●deme : by the benefit of whose happy gouernment , this Countie Palatine of Lancaster is prosperous in her Name and Greatnesse .

YORKE-SHIRE . CHAPTER XXXVIII .

AS the courses and confluents of great Riuers are for the most part fresh in memory , though their heads and fountaines lie commonly vnknowne : so the latter knowledge of great Regions , are not traduced to obliuion , though perhaps their first originals be obscure , by reason of Antiquitie , and the many reuolutions of times and ages ▪ In the delineation therefore of this great Prouince of Yorkshire , I will not insist vpon the narration of matters neere vnto vs ; but succinctly run ouer such as are more remote ; yet neither so sparingly , as I may seeme to diminish from the dignitie of so worthy a Country ; nor so prodigally , as to spend time in the superfluous praising of that which neuer any ( as yet ) dispraised . And although perhaps it may seeme a labour vnnecessary , to make relation of ancient remembrances , either of the Name or Nature of this Nation , especially looking into the difference of Time it selfe ( which in euery age bringeth forth diuerse effects ) and the dispositions of men , that for the most part take lesse pleasure in them , then in divulging the occurrents of their owne times : yet I hold it not vnfit to begin there , from whence the first certaine direction is giuen to proceede ; for ( euen of these ancient things ) there may be good vse made , eitherby imitation , or way of comparison , as neither the repetition , nor the repetition thereof shall be accounted impertinent .

(2) You shall therefore vnderstand : That the Countie of Yorke was in the Saxon tongue called Ebona-yeyne , and now commonly Yorkeshire , farre greater and more numerous in the Circuit of her miles , then any Shire of England . Shee is much bound to the singular loue and motherly ca●● of Nature , in placing her vnder so temperate a clime , that in euery measure she is 〈…〉 . If one part of her be stony , and a sandy barren ground : another is fertile and richly adorned with Corne-fields . If you here finde it naked , and destitute of Woods , you shall see it there shadowed with Forrests full of trees , that haue very thicke 〈◊〉 , sending forth many fruitfull and profitable branches . If one place of it be Moorish , Mirie , and vnpleasant ; another makes a free tender of delight , and presents it selfe to the eye , full of beautie and contentiue varietie .

(3) The Bishopricke of Durham fronts her on the North-side , and is seperated by a continued course of the Riuer Tees The Germaine Sea lieth sore vpon her Bast side , beating the shores with her boisterous waues and billowes . The West part is bounded with Lancashire , and Westmerland . The South-side hath Cheshire and Darbishire ( friendly Neighbours vnto her ) with the which she is first inclosed : then with Nottingham and with Lincolne-shires : after diuided with that famous Arme of the Sea Humber : Into which all the Riuers that water this Country , emptie themselues , and pay their ordinary Tributes , as into the common receptacle and store-house of Neptune , for all the watery Pensions of this Prouince .

(4) This whole Shire ( being of it selfe so spatious ) for the more easie and better ordering of her ciuill gouernment , is diuided into three parts : which according to three quarters of the world , are called The West-Riding , The East-Riding , and The North-Riding . West-Riding is for a good space compassed with the Riuer Ouse , with the bounds of Lancashire , and with the South limits of the Shire , and beareth towards the West and South . East-Riding bends it selfe to the Ocean , with the which , and with the Riuer Derment she is inclosed , and lookes into that part where the Sunne rising , and shewing forth his beames , makes the world both glad and glorious in his brightnesse North-Riding extends it selfe Northward , 〈◊〉 in as it were , with the Riuer Tees and Derwent , and a long race of the Riuer Ouse The length of this Shire , extended from Ha●thill in the South , to the mouth of Tees in the North , are neere vnto seauentie miles , the breadth from Flambrough-head to Horn-castle vpon the Riuer 〈◊〉 , is fourescore miles ; the whole Circumference is three hundred and eight miles .

(5) The Soile of this County for the generalitie is reasonable fertile , and yeelds sufficiency of Corne and Cattle within it selfe . One part whereof is particularly made famous by a 〈◊〉 of Stone , out of which the stones newly hewen be very soft , but seasoned with winde and 〈◊〉 of themselues doe naturally become exceeding hard and solide . Another , by a kind of 〈◊〉 whereof it consisteth , which being burnt , and conueyed into the other parts of the Country , which are hilly and some what cold , serue to manure and enrich their Corne-fields .

(6) That the Romans flourishing in military prowesse , made their seuerall stations in this Country , is made manifest by their Monuments , by many Inscriptions fastned in the Walles of Churches , by many Columnes engrauen with Roman work● found lying in Church-yards , by many 〈◊〉 Altars digd vp that were erected ( as it should seeme ) to their Tutelar Gods ( for they had locall and peculiar Topicke Gods , whom they honoured as Keepers and Guardians of some particular places of the Country ) as also by a kinde of Brickes which they vsed : for the Romans in time of peace , to auoid and withstand idlenesse , ( as an enemy to vertuous and valorous enterprises ) still exercised their Legions and Cohorts in casting of ditches , making of High-wayes , building of Bridges , and making of Brickes , which hauing sithence bin found , and from time to time digd out of the ground , proue the Antiquitie of the place by the Romane Inscriptions vpon them .

(7) No lesse argument of the pietie hereof , are the many Monasteries , Abbyes and Religious houses that haue beene placed in this Country ; which whilest they retained their owne state and magnificence , were great ornaments vnto it : but since their dissolution , and that the teeth of Time ( which deuours all things ) haue eaten into them , they are become like dead carkasses , leauing onely some poore ruines and remaines aliue , as reliques to posteritie , to shew of what beautie and magnitude they haue beene . Such was the Abbey of Whi●●y , founded by Lady Hilda , daughter of the grand-childe vnto King Edwine . Such was the Abbey built by Bolcon , which is now so razed and laid Ieuell with the earth , as that at this time it affords no appearance of the former dignitie . Such was Kirkstall Abbey , of no small account in time past , founded in the yeare of Christ 1147. Such was the renowned Abbey called S. Maries in Yorke , built and endowed with rich liuings by Alan the third Earle of little Britaine in America ; but since conuerted into the Princes house , and is called The Mannour . Such the wealthy Abbey of Fountaines , built by T●urstin Arch bishop of Yorke Such was the famous Monastery founded in the Primitiue Church of the East-Saxons , by Wilfrid Arch-bishop of Yorke , and enlarged ( being fallen downe and decayed ) by Odo Arch-bishop of Canterbury . Such was Drax , a religious house of Chanons . Such that faire Abbey built by King William the Conquerour at Silby ( where his Sonne Henry the first was borne ) in memory of Saint German , who happily confuted that contagious Pelagian Heresie , which oftentimes grew to Serpentine head in Britaine .

These places for Religion erected , with many more within this Prouinciall Circuit , and consecrated vnto holy purposes , shew the antiquitie , and how they haue beene sought vnto by confluences of Pilgrimes in their manner of deuotions : The midst of which superstitious obscurities , are since cleared by the pure light of the Gospell reuealed , and the skirts of Idolatry vnfolded to her owne shame and ignominie : And they made subiect to the dissolution of Times , seruing onely as antique Monuments and remembrances to the memory of succeeding Ages .

(8) Many places of this Prouince are famoused as well by Name , being naturally fortunate in their situation , as for some other accidentall happinesse befallen vnto them . Hallifax , famous , as well for that Iohannes defacro Besco , Author of the Sphere , was borne there , and for the Law it hath against stealing , and for the greatnesse of the Parish , which reckoneth in it eleuen Chappels , whereof two be Parish-Chappels , and in them to the number of twelue thousand people .

In former times it was called Horton , and touching the alteration of the name , this prety story is related of it : namely , That a Clerke ( for so they call him ) being farre in loue with a maid , and by no meanes either of long prayses or large promises , able to gaine like affection at her hands , when he saw his hopes frustrate , and that he was not like to haue his purpose of her , turned his loue into rage , and cut off the maides head , which being afterwards hung vpon an Ewe tree , common people counted it as an hallowed relique till it was rotten : And afterwards ( such was the credulitie of that time ) it maintained the opinion of reuerence and Religion still : for the people resorted thither on pilgrimage , and perswaded themselues , that the little veynes that spread out betweene the Barke and Body of the Ewe tree like fine threds , were the very haires of the maids head . Hereupon it was called by this name Haligfax , or Haly-fax , that is , Holy-Hayre .

Pomfret is famous for the Site , as being seated in a place so pleasant , that it brings forth Liquori●e and great plentie of Skiriworts , but it is infamous for the murther and bloudshed of Princes : The Castle whereof was built by Hildebert Lacy , a Norman , to whom William the Conquerour gaue this Towne , after Alrick the Saxon was thrust out of it .

(9) But I will forbeare to be prolixe or tedious in the particular memoration of places in a Prouince so spatious , and onely make a compendious relation of Yorke , the second Citie of England , in Latine called Eboracum and Eburacum , by Ptolemy , Brigantium ( the chiefe Citie of the Brigants ) by Ninius , Caer Ebrauc , by the Britaines , Caer Effro● . The British History reports that it tooke the name of Ebrauc that founded it ; but some others are of opinion , that Eburacum hath no other deriuation then from the Riuer Ouse running thorow it : It ouer-masters all the other places of this Country for fairenesse , and is a singular ornament & safegard to all the North parts . A pleasant place , large , and full of magnificence , rich , populous , and not onely strengthened with fortifications , but adorned with beautifull buildings , as well priuate as publike . For the greater dignitie thereof it was made an Episcopall See by Constantius , and a Metropolitane Citie by a Pall sent vnto it from Homorius . Egbert Arch-bishop of Yorke , who flourished about the yeare seauen hundred fortie , erected in it a most famous Library . Richard the third repaired the Castle thereof being ruinous , and King Henry the eight appointed a Counsell in the same , to decide and determine all the causes and Controuersies of the North parts , according to equitie and conscience : which Counsell consisteth of a Lord President , certaine Counsellers at the Princes pleasure , a Secretarie , and other Vnder-Officers .

The originall of this Citie cannot be fetcht out but from the romanes , seeing the Britaines before the Romanes came , had no other Townes then Woods fenced with Trenches and Rampiers , as Caesar and Strabo doe testifie . And that it was a Colony of the Romanes , appeares both by the authoritie of Ptolemy and Antonine , and by many ancient Inscriptions that haue beene found there . In this Citie the Emperour Seuerus had his Palace , and here gaue vp his last breath ; which ministers occasion to shew the ancient custome of the Romanes , in the military manner of their burials .

His body was caried forth here by the Souldiers to the Funerall fire , and committed to the flames , honoured with the Iusts and Turnaments both of the Souldiers and of his owne sonnes : His ashes bestowed in a little golden pot or vessel of the Prophyrat stone , were carryed to Rome , and shrined there in the monument of the Antoni●s . In this Citie ( as Spartian●●s maketh mention ) was the Temple of the Goddesse Bellona ; to which Seuerus ( being come thither purposing to offer sacrifice ) was erroneously led by a rusticall Augur .

Here Fl Velerius Constantinus , surnamed Chlorus ( an Emperour of excellent vertue and Christian pietie ) ended his life , and was Defied as appeares by ancient Coines : and his sonne Constantine being present at his Fathers death , forthwith proclaimed Emperour ; from whence it may be gathered of what great estimation Yorke was in those dayes , when the Romane Emperours Court was held in it . This Citie flourished a long time vnder the English-Saxons Dominion , till the Danes like a mightie storme , thundring from out the North-East , destroyed it , and distained it with the bloud of many slaughtered persons , and wan it from Osbright and Flla Kings of Northumberland , who were both slaine in their pursuite of the Danes : which Alcuine in his Epistle to Egelred King of Northumberland , seemed to pre●age before , when he said ; What signifieth that raining downe of bloud in S. Peters Church of Yorke , euen in a faire day , and descending in so violent and threatning a manner from the top of the roofe ? may it not be thought that bloud is comming vpon the Land from the North parts ?

Howbeit , At●e●stane recouered it from the Danish subiection , and quite ouerthrew the Castle , with the which they had fortified it ; yet was it not ( for all this ) so freed from warres , but that it was subiect to the Times fatally next following . Neuerthelesse , in the Conquerours time when ( after many woefull ouerthrowes and troublesome stormes ) it had a pleasant calme of ensuing peace , it rose againe of it selfe , and flourished afresh , hauing still the helping hand both of Nobility and Gentry , to recouer the former dignitie , and bring it to the perfection it hath : The Citizens fenced it round with new wals , and many towers and bulwarkes , and ordaining good and wholesome lawes for the gouernment of the same . Which at this day are executed at the command of a Lord Maior , who hath the assistance of twelue Aldermen , many Chamberlaines , a Recorder , a Towne-Clerke , sixe Sergeants at Mace , and two Esquires , which are , a Sword-bearer , and the Common Sergeant , who with a great Mace goeth on the left hand of the Sword . The Longitude of this Citie , according to Mercators account , is 19. degrees , and 35. scruples : the Latitude 54. degrees and fortie scruples .

( 10 ) Many occurrents present themselues with sufficient matter of enlargement to this discourse , yet none of more worthy consequence then were those seuerall Battles , fought within the compasse of this Countie ; wherein Fortune had her pleasure as well as in the proofe of her loue , as in the pursuit of her tyranny ; sometime sending the fruits of sweet peace vnto her , and otherwhiles suffering her to taste the sowrenesse of warre .

At Conishorough ( in the Britaine tongue C●aer Conan ) was a great battle fought by Hengist , Captaine of the English-Saxons , after he had retyred himselfe thither for his safetie , his men being fled and scattered , and himselfe discomsited by A●relius Ambrosius ; yet within few dayes after he brought forth his men to battell against the Britaines that pursued him , where the field was bloudy both to him and his ; for many of his men were cut in pieces , and he himselfe had his head chopt off , as the British History saith ; which the Chronicles of the English-Saxons deny , reporting that he dyed in peace , being surcharged and ouer-worne with the troublesome toyles and trauels of warre .

Neere vnto Kirkstall , Oswie King of Northumberland put Penda the Mercian to flight : the place wherein the Battle was ioyned , the Writers call Winwid Field , giuing it the name by the victory . And the little Region about it ( in times past called by an old name Elmet ) was conquered by Eadwin King of Northumberland , the sonne of Aela , after he had expelled Cereticus a British King , in the yeare of Christ , 620.

At Casterford ( called by Antonine Legeolium and Legetium ) the Citizens of Yorke slew many of King Ethelreds Army , and had a great hand against him , in so much as he that before state in his throne of Maiestie , was on a sodaine daunted , and ready to offer submission .

But the most worthy of memory , was that Field fought on Pal●-Sunday , 1461. in the quarrell of Lancaster and Yorke , where England neuer saw more puissant Forces both of Gentry and Nobilitie : for there were in the field at one time ( partakers on both sides ) to the number of one hundred thousand fighting men . When the fight had continued doubtfull a great part of the day , the Lancastrians not able longer to abide the violence of their enemies , turned backe and fled amaine , and such as took part with Yorke , followed them so hotly in chase , and kild such a number of Noble and Gentlemen , that thirtie thousand Englishmen were that day left dead in the field .

( 11 ) Let vs now loose the point of this compasse , and saile into some other parts of this Prouince , to finde out matter of other memorable moment ▪ Vnder Knansbrough there is a Well called D●●ping-well , in which the waters spring not out of the veynes of the earth , but distill and trickle downe from the rockes that hang ouer it : It is of this vertue and efficacie , that it turnes wood into stone : for what wood soeuer is put into it , will be shortly couered ouer with a stony barke , and be turned into stone , as hath beene often obserued .

At Giggleswicke also about a mile from Settle ( a Market-Towne ) there are certaine small springs not distant a quaits cast from one another : the middlemost of which doth at euery quarter of an houre ebbe and flow about the height of a quarter of a yard when it is highest , and at the ebbe falleth so low , that it is not an inch deepe with water . Of no lesse worthinesse to be remembred is S. Wilfrids Needle , a place very famous in times past for the narrow hole in the close vaulted roome vnder the ground , by which womens honesties were wont to be tryed : for such as were chaste passe through with much facilitie ; but as many as had plaid false , were miraculously held fast , and could not creepe through . Beleeue if you list .

The credible report of a Lampe found burning ( euen in our Fathers remembrance , when Abbeyes were pulled downe and suppressed ) in the Sepulchre of constantius , within a certaine vault or little Chappell vnder the ground , wherein he was supposed to haue beene buried , might beget much wonder and admiration , but that L. Zius confirmeth that in ancient times they had a custome to preserue light in Sepulchres , by an artificiall resoluing of gold into a liquid and farry substance , which should continue bruning a long time , and for many ages together .

THE BISHOPRICKE OF DURHAM . CHAPTER XXXIX .

THe Bishopricke of Durham , containeth those parts and Towne-ships that 〈…〉 the Reuer Tees and Derwent , and all along the German-Sea 〈…〉 on the North wit● Northumberland , and their Iurisdictions parted by the 〈…〉 touched by Cumberland , Westmorland , and from 〈…〉 Riuer Tees , and by the same water on her South , from Yorke-shire 〈…〉 By the German-Sea .

(2) The forme thereof is triangle , 〈…〉 for from her South 〈◊〉 vnto the West-point , are about thirtie miles , from thence to the North-east and 〈…〉 are likewise as many , and her base along the Sea-shore are twentie - 〈…〉 Circumference , about one hundred and three miles .

(3) The ayre is sharpe and very piercing , and would be more , 〈◊〉 not that the 〈◊〉 from the German-Seas did helpe much to dissolue 〈◊〉 and snow : and the store of coales therein growing and gotten , doe warme the body , and keepe backe the cold ; which 〈…〉 besides their owne vse , doth yeeld great commodities vnto this Prouince , by trade thereof 〈◊〉 other parts .

(4) For Soile , it consisteth much alike of Pastures , 〈◊〉 , and 〈◊〉 grounds : the East is the richest and most champion , the South more moorish , but 〈…〉 without either grasse or graine , notwithstanding 〈…〉 with as great gaine , both in rearing vp Cattle , and 〈…〉 groweth so neere to the vpper 〈…〉 wheeles doe turne vp the same . Some hold their substance to be a clammie kinde of clay hardned with heat abounding in the earth , and so becomming concocted , is nothing else but Bitumen : for proofe whereof , these Coales haue both the like smell and operation of Bitumen : for being sprinkled with water , they burne more vehemently , but with oyle are quite extinguished and put out .

(5) The ancient Inhabitants knowne vnto Ptolemie , were the Brigantes , of whom we haue spoken in the Generall of Yorkeshire , they being subdued by the romans ; after whom the Saxons made it a part of their Northumberlands Kingdom ; at first a Prouince belonging to the Deirians , and enioyed by Ella their first King ; afterwards inuaded by the Danes , and lastly possessed by the Normans : whose site being so neere vnto Scotland , hath many times felt their fury , and hath beene as a Buckler betwixt them and the English ; for which cause , the Inhabitants haue certaine freedomes , and are not charged with seruice as other Counties are , so that this with Westmorland , Cumberland , and Northumberland , are not diuided into hundreds in those Parliament Rolles whence I had the rest : which want I must leaue for others to supply .

(6) Ouer this Countie , the Bishops thereof haue had the Royalties of Princes , and the Inhabitants haue pleaded priuiledge not to passe in seruice of warre ouer the Riuer of Tees or Tyne ; whose charge ( as they haue alledged ) was to keepe and defend the corps of S Cuthbert their great adored Saint , and therefore they termed themselues , The holy-werk-folkes . And the repute of this Cuthbert and his supposed defence against the Scots was such , that our English Kings in great deuotion haue gone in pilgrimage to visit his Tombe , and haue giuen many large possessions to his Church : such were King Egfred , Aelfred , and Guthrun the Dane , Edward and Athelstan Monarch of England , and zealous Cannte , the greatest of all , who came thither bare-footed , and at Cuthberts Tombe both augmented and confirmed their Liberties . This Saint then , of nothing made Durham become great , and William the Conquerour , of a Bishopricke made it a County Palatine : at that time William Careleph , Bishop of the Diocesse , pulled downe the old Church which Aldwin had built , and with sumptuous cost laid the foundations of a new , wherein S. Cuthberts Shrine in the vacancy of the Bishops , was the Keeper of the Castle-keyes .

In the West of this Church , and place called Gallile , the Marble Tombe of venerable Beda remaineth , who was borne at Iaerro in this Countie , and became a Monke at Weremouth , whose painefull indust●es and light of learning in those times of darknesse are wonderfull , as the volumes which he wrote doe well declare . And had the idle Monkes of England imployed their times after his example , their Founders expectations had not beene frustrate , nor those foundations so easily ouerturned . But the reuenge of sinne euer following the actions of sinnes , dissolued first the largenesse of this Counties liberties , vnder the raigne of King Edward the First , and since hath shaken to peices those places herein erected , vnder the raigne of King Henry the eight : such were Durham , Sherborne , Stayndr●p , Iarro , ●eremouth , and Egleton ; all which felt the reward of their idlenesse , and wrath of him that is jealous of his owne honour .

(7) Things of rare note obserued in this Shire are three pits of a wonderfull depth , commonly called the Hell-Kettles , which are adioyning neere vnto Darlington , whose waters are some what warme . These are thought to come of an Earth-quake , which happened in the yeare of Grace 1179. whereof the Chrenicle of Tin-mouth maketh mention , whose record is this : On Christmas day , at Oxe●hall in the Territorie of Darlington , within the Bishopricke of Durham , the ground heaued vp aloft , like vnto an high Tower 〈…〉 all that day , as it were vnmoueable , vntill the euening ; 〈◊〉 then fell with so horrible a noise , that it made all the neighbour dwellers sore afraid : and the earth swallowed it vp , and made in the same place a deepe pit , which is there to be seene for a testimonie vnto this day .

(8) Of no lesse admiration are certaine stones lying within the Riuer Weere , at Butterbre neere Durham ; from whose sides at the Ebbe and low water in the Summer , issueth a certaine salt reddish water , which with the Sunne waxeth white , and growing into a thicke substance , becommeth a necessary sal● to the vse of the by-dwellers .

(9) And places of elder times had in a●rount by the Romans , were Benonium , now Binchester , and C●ndereum , Chester in the street , where their monies haue beene digged vp , and at Codercu●● so much , that Egelrik Bishop of Durham was therewith made exceeding rich .

WESTMORLAND : CHAPTER XL.

WESTMORLAND , by some late Latine Writers is c●lled Westmaria , and Westmorlandia , by some later Westmoria , and in our English Tongue Westmorland It came to be thus named in our language by the situation , which in euery part is so plenteously full of Moores and high hils , teaching one to another , that Westmorland ( with vs ) is nothing else but a Westerne moorish Country . Hauing on the West and North-side Cumberland , on the South-part Lanca-shire , on the East-side Yorkeshire , and the Bishopricke of Durham .

(2) The length thereof extended from Burton in her South , to Kirkland in her North-part is 30. miles : the broadest part from East to West , is from the Riuer Eden to Dunbal rase-stones , containing 24. miles , the whole circumference about 112. miles .

(3) The forme thereof is somewhat long and narrow : the Aire sharpe and piercing , purging it selfe from the trouble of grosse foggy mists and vapours , by reason of which the people of this Prouince are not acquainted with strange diseases or imperfections of body , but liue long , and are healthfull , and attaine to the number of many yeares .

(4) The Soile for the most part of it , is but barren , and can hardly be brought to any fruitfulnesse by the industry and painfull labour of the husbandman , being so full of infertile places , which the Northern Englishmen call Moores : yet the more Southerly part is not reported to be so sterile , but more fruitfull in the vallies , though contained in a narrow roome , betweene the Riuer Lone , and W●●ander mear , and it is all termed by one name . The Barony of Kendale or Candale , that is , the dale by Can , taking the name of the Riuer Can that runs through it .

(5) The ancient Inhabitants of this Country were the Brigantes , mentioned in the seuerall Counties of Yorke , Lancaster , and Cumberland .

(6) It is not commended either for plentie of Corne or Cattle , being neither stored with arable grounds to bring forth the one , nor pasturage to breed vp the other : the principall profit that the people of this Prouince raise vnto themselues , is by cloathing .

(7) The chiefest place of which is Kandale or Kendale , called also Kirkeby Kendale , standing on the banke of the Riuer Can. This Towne is of great trade and resort , and for the diligent and industrious practise of making cloath so excels the rest , that in regard thereof it carrieth a supereminent name aboue them , and hath great vent & trashque for her wollen cloaths through all the parts of England . It challengeth not much glory for Antiquitie ; onely this it accounteth a great credit , that it hath dignified three Earles with the title thereof , as Iohn Duke of Bedford , whom Henry the Fift ( being his brother ) aduanced to that honour , Iohn Duke of Sommerset , and Iohn de Foix , whom King Henry the sixt preferred to that dignitie for his honourable and trusty seruices done in the French warres . It is a place of very ciuill and orderly gouernment , the which is mannaged by an Alderman , chosen euery yeare out of his twelue Brethren , who are all distinguished and notified from the rest by the wearing of purple garments The Alderman and his Senior Brother are alwayes Iustices of Peace and Quorum . There are in it a Towne-Clerke , a Recorder , two Sergeants at Mace , and two Chamberlaines . By Mathematicall obseruation the site of this Towne is in the degree of Longitude 17. 30. scruples , from the first West point , and the Pole eleuated in Latitude to the degree 55. and 15. minutes

(8) Places of memorable note for Antiquitie are Vertera , mentioned by Antonine the Emperour ; and Aballaba , which we contractly call Apelby . In the one , the Northerne English conspired against William the Conquerour in the beginning of the Norman gouernment . In the other , the A●rel●an Maures kept a station in the time of the Romanes , and their high streete is yet apparently to be seene by the ridges thereof which lead by Apelby to a place called Brouonacum , mentioned in the Booke of Prouinciall notices . The antique pieces of Romane Coyne other whiles digd vp hereabouts , and some Inscriptions not long since found , shew of what continuance they haue beene : although Time , which deuouteth all things , hath so fed vpon their carkasses many ages together , as it hath almost consumed both houses and Inhabitants . For Apelby now is bare both of people and building ; and were it not for the antiquitie that makes it the more esteemable , in whose Castle the Assises are commonly kept , it would be little better in account then a village Verterae is long since decayed , and the name of it changed into Burgh : for it is commonly named Burgh vnder Sta●emore . In which , it is said , a Romane Captaine made his abode with a band of Directores , in the declining age of the Romane Empire . These two places William of Newborough calleth Princely Holds , and writeth that William King of Scots a little before he himselfe was taken prisoner at Alnewicke , surprized them on a sodaine , but King Iohn recouered them after , and liberally bestowed them vpon Robert V●pont , for his many worthy seruices .

(9) There is mention made but of one religious house that hath beene in all this Country , and that was a little Monastery seated neere vnto the Riuer Lod●● , built by Tho●as the sonne of Gospatricke , the sonne of Orms : where there is a fountaine or spring that ebbes and flowes many times a day , and it is thought that some notable Act of Atchieuement hath beene performed there , for that there be huge stones in forme of Pyramides , some nine foot high , and fourteene foot thicke , ranged for a mile in length directly in a row , and equally distant , which might seeme to haue beene there purposely pitc●ed in memory thereof : but what that Act was is not now knowne , but quite worne out of remembrance by times iniurie .

( 10 ) Other matters worthy obseruation are onely these : That at Amboglana , now called Amble-side , neere the vpper corner of Winander mear , there appeares at this day the ruines of an ancient Citie , which by the British-Brickes , by Romane-money oftentimes found there , by High-wayes paued leading vnto it , and other likelihoods , seemes to haue beene a worke of the Romanes : The Fortresse thereof so long fenced with a ditch and rampire , that it tooke vp in length one hundred thirtie two Ells , and in bredth eight . There are also neere Kendale in the Riuer Can , two Catadupae or Waterfals , where the waters descend with such a forcible downefall , that it compels a mightie noyse to be heard , which the neighbour Inhabitants make such vse of , as they stand them in as good stead as Prognostications : for when that which standeth North from them soundeth more cleare , and with a louder eccho in their eares , they certainly looke for faire weather to follow : But when that on the South doth the like , they expect foggy mists and showres of raine .

( 11 ) This Prouince is traded with foure Market-Townes , fortified with the strength of seuen Castles , and hath 26. Parishes in it for the celebration of Diuine Seruice .

CVMBERLAND . CHAPTER XLI .

CVMBERLAND , the furthest North-west Prouince in this Realme of England , confronteth vpon the South of Scotland , and is diuided from that Kingdome partly by the Riuer ●irso● , then crossing Eske , by a tract thorow Solome-Mosse , vntill it come to the Solwaye Frith , by Ptolemie called the 〈◊〉 Baye . The North-west part is neighboured by Northumberland , more East-ward with Westmerland , the South with Lancashire , and the West is wholly washed with the Irish Seas .

(2) The forme whereof is long and narrow , pointing wedge-like into the South , which part is altogether pestred with copped-hilles , and therefore hath the name of Cop-land . The middle is more leuell , and better inhabited , yeelding sufficient for the sustenance of man : but the North is wilde and solitary , combred with hilles , as Copland is .

(3) The ayre is piercing , and of a sharpe temperature , and would be more biting , were it not that those high hilles breake off the Northerne stormes , and cold falling snowes .

(4) Notwithstanding , rich is this Prouince , and with great varieties thereof is replenished : the hilles , though rough , yet smile vpon their beholders , spread with sheepe and cattle , the vallies stored with grasse and corne sufficient : the Sea affordeth great store of fish , the land ouer-spread with varietie of fowles , and the Riuers feed a kinde of Muskle that bringeth forth Pearle , where in the mouth of the Irt , as they lie gaping and sucking in dew , the Country people gather and sell to the Lapidaries , to their owne little , and the buyers great gaine . But the Mines Royall of Copper , whereof this Country yeeldeth much , is for vse the richest of all : the place is at Keswick and Newland , where likewise the Blacke Lead is gotten , whose plentie maketh it of no great esteeme ; otherwise a commoditie that could hardly be missed .

(5) The ancient Inhabitants knowne to the Romans , were the Brigantes , whom Ptolemie disperseth into Westmorland , Richmond , Durham , York-shire , and Lanca-shire . But when the Saxons had ouer borne the Britaines , and forced them out of the best , to seeke their resting among the vast Mountaines , these by them were entred into , where they held play with those enemies maugre their force , and from them , as Mariama doth witnesse , the Land was called Cumber , of those Kumbri the Britaines . But when the State of the Saxons was fore shaken by the Danes , this Cumberland was accounted a Kingdome it selfe ; for so the Flower-gatherer of Westminster recordeth : King Edmund ( saith he ) with the helpe of Leoline Prince of South-Wales , wasted all Cumberland , and hauing put out the eyes of the two sonnes of Dunmail King of that Prouince , granted that Kingdome vnto Molcolm King of Scots , whereof their eldest sonnes became Prefects . This Prouince , King Stephen , to purchase fauour with the Scots , what time he stood in most need of ayd , confirmed by gift vnder their Crowne ; which Henry the second notwithstanding made claime vnto and got , as Newbrigensis writeth , and laid it againe in the Marches of England : since when , many bickerings betwixt these Nations herein haue hapned , but none so sore against the Scotish side , as was that at Sallome-Mosse , where their Nobilitie disdaining their Generall Oliuer Sinclere , gaue ouer the Battle , and yeelded themselues to the English ; which dishonour pier●ed so deeply into the heart of King Iames the fift , that for griefe thereof he shortly after died .

(6) Many memorable Antiquities remaine and haue beene found in this County : for it being the Confines of the Romans Possessions , was continually secured by their Garrisons , where remaine a● this day parts of that admirable wall built by Seuer●s : also another Fortification from W●rkinton to Elus Mouth , vpon the Sea-shoare toward Ireland , by Stilico raised , when vnder Theodosius he suppressed the rage of the Picts and Irish , and freed the Seas of the Saxons Pirats . Vpon Hard-knot hill , Moresby , Old Carleil , Pap-castle along the Wall , and in many other places , their ruines remaine , with altars , and Inscriptions of their Captaines and Colonies , whereof many haue beene found , and more as yet lie hid .

(7) The chiefest Citie in this Shire is Carlile , pleasantly seated betwixt the Riuers Eden , Petterell , and Caud , by the Romans called Luguvallum ; by Beda , Luell ; by Ptolemy , Leucopibia ; by Nu●tu● Caer-Lu●lid ; and by vs Carlile . This Citie flourishing vnder the Romans , at their departure , by the furious outrages of the Scots and Picts was deiected , yet in the dayes of Egfrid King of Northumberland was walled about : but againe defaced by the ouer-running Danes , lay buried in her owne ashes the space of two hundred yeares ; vpon whose ruines at length Rufus set his compassionate eye , and built there the Castle , planting a Colony of Flemings to secure the Coasts from the Scots , but vpon better aduisement remoued them into Wales . After him , Henry his brother and successour ordained this Citie for an Episcopall See : whose site is placed in the degree of Longitude from the first West part 17. and 2. scruples , and the Pole thence eleuated from the degree of Latitude 55. and 56. scruples .

(8) West from hence , at Burgh vpon the sand , was the fatall end of our famous Monarch King Edward the first , who there leauing his warres vnfinished against Scotland , left his troubles , and soone missed life , to his vntimely and soone lamented death .

(9) And at Salkelds vpon the Riuer Eden , a Monument of seuentie seuen stones , each of them ten foot high aboue ground , and one of them at the entrance fifteene , as a Trophie of Victory was erected . These are by the By-dwellers called Long Megge and her daughters .

NORTHVMBERLAND . CHAPTER XLII .

THe County of Northumberland , hath on the South the Bishopricke of Durham , being shut in with the Riuer Derwent , and with Tyne ; the North is confined vpon Scotland , the West vpon part of Scotland and part of Cumberland : the East-side lyeth altogether vpon the Sea , called Mare-Germanicum .

(2) The forme thereof is Triangle , and differs not much in the sidings ; for from her South-East vnto the South-West-point are neere vnto 40. miles ; from thence to 〈◊〉 North-point are sixty miles , and her base along the Sea-shoare 45. miles : The whole in circum●●●● is about one hundred fortie fiue miles .

(3) The Ayre must needs be subtile and piercing , for that the Northernly parts are most exposed to extremitie of weathers , as great winds , hard frosts , and long lying of snowes , &c. Yet would it be farre more sharper then it is , were not the Germane Seas a ready meanes to further the dissolution of her Ice and Snow , and the plentie of Coales there gotten , a great helpe to comfort the body with warmth , and defend the bitter coldnesse .

(4) The Soile cannot be rich , hauing neither fertilitie of ground for Corne or Cattle , the most part of it being rough , and in euery place hard to be manured , saue onely towards the Sea and the Riuer Tyne , where , by the great diligence and industrious paines of good husbandry , that part is become very fruitfull .

(5) The ancient Inhabitants of this Country , mentioned by Ptolemie , were called OTTALINI , OTTADENI , and OTTADINI , which by an easie alteration ( as M. Cambden saith ) if it had ●ene called OTTATINI , signifying , about the Riuer Tyne , or on the further side of Tyne 〈…〉 this people were planted ) there would haue beene much consonance both with the name of the Inhabitants , and the Position and Site of the Prouince .

(6) The chiefest commoditie that enricheth this Countie , are those Stones Linthancraces , which we call Sea-coales , whereof there is such plentie and abundance digged vp , as they doe not onely returne a great gaine to the Inhabitants , but procure also much pleasure and profit to others .

(7) No place of this Prouince vents forth so many of these Sea-coales into other regions as Newcastle doth , being the very eye of all the Townes in this County : for it doth not onely minister reliefe ( by such prouision ) to all other parts of England , but doth also farnish the wants of forraine Countries with her plentie . By meanes of this and the intercourse of traffique which it hath , the place is growne ex●eeding rich and populous . Before the Conquest it was called Monk-chester : hauing beene ( 〈…〉 ) in the possession of Monkes : and Chester being added , which signifies a bulwarke or place of defence , shewes that in ancient time it had beene a place of Fortification .

(8) After the Conquest it got the name of Newcastle ▪ by the new Castle which Robert the Sonne of William the Conquerour built there , out of the ground . What it was called in old time is not knowne , yet some are of opinion , that it may be thought to haue beene Gatrosentum for that Gateshead , the suburbe ( as it were ) of the same , expresseth in the owne proper signification that British name , Gatrosentum It is now most enobled both by the Hauen ( which Tyne maketh ) of that notable depth , that it beareth very tall Ships , and is able to defend them against stormes and tempests . As also by many fauours and honours wherewith it hath beene dignified by p●ces : for Richard the second , granted that a Sword should be carried before the Maior , and Henry the sixt made it a County consisting of a Corporation within it selfe . It is adorned with foure Churches , and fortified with strong wals that haue eight gates . It is distant from the first West line 21 degrees and 30 minutes , and from the Equinoctiall liue towards the North-pole thirtie-foure degrees and fiftie-seaven minutes .

(9) The vtmost Towne in England , and the strongest hold in all Britaine , is Barwicke . From whence it had the name is not certainely made knowne . Some fetch it from Berengarius , a Duke ( neuer read of : ) Howsoeuer , this is better to be said then trusted : and whence soeuer it hath the name , it is seated betweene two mightie Kingdomes , shooting farre into the Sea , with the which , and the Riuer Tweed , it is almost encompassed : and whensoeuer any discord fell betweene the two Nations , this place was the first thing they tooke care of . It hath endured the brunts of diuers inroades and incursions , and beene oftentimes both possessed and repossessed of the Scots and English : But since it was reduced vnder the command of Edward the fourth , our Kings haue from time to time so strengthened it with new workes and fortifications , as they cut off all hopes of winning it . The Gouernour of this Towne is also Warden of the East Marches against scotland . The Longitude of it according to Mathematicall obseruation , is 21. degrees and 43. minutes : the Latitude 55. degrees and 48. minutes .

( 10 ) The Inhabitants of this County are a warlike people , and excellent light horsemen , and are made fierce and hard by the seuerall encounters of the Scots , and not much vnlike them in neither , betwixt whom in this County , many Battles haue beene fought , and the successes oftentimes waued through very doubtfully , the victory sometimes falling to the scots , sometimes to the English . At Otterburne was one , in which three or foure times it stood doubtfully indifferent , till in the end the Scots got the vpper hand of the English : Howbeit , their glory was not made so illustrious by this Conquest , but that it was as much darkened by the foile they receiued at A●wicke , where William King of Scots , was taken and presented prisoner to Henry the second . As also by that Battell at Brumridge , where King Athelstan fought a pitcht field against Anlafe the Dane , Constantine King of Scots , and Eugenius King of Cumberland , and that with such fortunate successe , as it hath left matter sufficient to fill the pennes of Historians . Flodden field also , memorable in the death of Iames the fourth , King of Scots , who was there slaine , and his Army ouerthrowne in a sharpe fight , as he displayed his Banner ( in great hope ) against England , when King Henry the eight lay at the siege of Turnay in France

( 11 ) Other Battles in this Countie haue beene , as that at Hexam ( called by Bede , Hangustald ) wherein Iohn Neuill , Marquesse Montacute , encountred the Leaders of the Lancastrian faction with much courage , and with greater successe put them to flight , for which he was made Earle of Northumberland by Edward the fourth As also that at Dilston ( by Bede called Diuelshur●e , ) where Oswald hauing the faith of Christ for his defence and armour , slew Cedwall the Britaine in a set battell , himselfe straight-wayes becomming a professed Christian , and causing his people to be instructed in Christian Religion .

( 12 ) Many memorable antiquities are found in this Country along the wall , and in other places : As pieces of Coyne , Inscriptions , broken and vnperfect Altars , &c. ( the ruines of the wall yet to be seene : ) but none that deserues more to be remembred then Wall-Towne ( by Bede called Ad Muru● ) for that Segebert King of the East-Saxons was in it baptized in the Christian Faith by the hands of Paulinus : and Halyston , where the same Paulinus is said to haue baptized many thousands into the Faith of Christ , in the Primitiue Church of the English Nation .

( 13 ) Busy-gap is a place infamous for robbing and theeuing , and is therefore rather remembred as a cautiatory note for such as haue cause to trauell that way , then for any proper matter of worth it hath , that merits place with other parts of this Prouince .

Other matters of obseruation are onely these , that North Tyne ( running through the Wall ) waters two Dales , which breed notable light horse-men , and both of them haue their hils ( hard by ) so boggy , and standing with water on the top , that no horsemen are able to ride through them , and yet ( which is wonderfull ) there be many great heapes of Stones ( called Lawes ) which the neighbouring people are verily perswaded were cast vp and laid together in old time , in remembrance of some that were slaine there . There is also a martiall kinde of men which lie out , vp and downe in little Cottages ( called by them Sheals and Shealings ) from Aprill to August , in scattering fashion , summering ( as they terme it ) their Cattle , and these are such a sort of people as were the ancient Nomades . The last , not least , matter of note is this , that the Inhabitants of Morpeth set their owne Towne on fire in the yeare of Christ 1215. in the spight they bare to King Iohn , for that he and his Rutars ouer-ranne these Countries .

MAN ILAND . CHAPTER XLIII .

THe I le of Man is termed by Ptolemy , M●neda ; by Pliny , Menauia ; by Orosius , Menania by Beda , Menania secunda , and by Gyldas , 〈◊〉 , and M●naw . The Britaine name it Men●w ; the Inhabitants , Ma●●ge ; and we Englishmen , The I le of Man It boundeth North-ward vpon Scotland , South-ward vpon the I le of Anglesey , East-ward vpon part of 〈◊〉 - shire , and West-ward vpon the Coast of Ireland .

(2) The forme is long and narrow : for from 〈◊〉 to the Mull-hils , where it is longest , it onely stretcheth it selfe to twentie nine miles ; but from the widest part , which is from Peele-Castle to Douglas-point , are scarce nine ; the whole compasse about , is fourescore and two miles .

(3) The ayre is so cold and sharpe , being bordering vpon the 〈◊〉 parts , and for her shelter hauing but a wall of water . They haue few woods ; onely they light sometimes vpon so subterranean trees buried vnder the ground , by digging vp the earth for a ●lammie kinde of 〈◊〉 , which they vse for fuell .

(4) The soile is reasonable fruitfull both for Cattle , Fish , and Corne ; yet it rather commendeth the paines of the people then the goodnesse of the ground ; for by the industry of the Inhabitants it ●eeldeth sufficiency of euery thing for it selfe , and sendeth good store into other Countries . It hath fields ( by good manuring ) plenteous of Barley and Wheat , but especially 〈…〉 and from hence it comes that the people eate most of all Oaten-bread . It beares abundance of 〈◊〉 and Flaxe , and is full of mightie flockes of sheepe and other Cattell : yet are they smaller in body then we haue in England , and are much like to the Cattle in Ireland that are neighbouring vpon it .

(5) This commoditie makes this Iland more happie then we are here : for the people are there free from vnnecessary commencements of Suites , from long and dilatory Pleas , and from friuolous feeing of Lawyers No Iudge or Clerks of the Court take there any penny for drawing Instruments , or making of Processes All Controuersies are there determined by certaine Iudges , without writings or other charges , and them they call Deemsters , and chuse forth among themselues , If any complaint be made to the Magistrate for wrongs eyther done or suffred , he presently taketh vp a stone , and fixeth his marke vpon it , and so deliuereth it vnto the partie plaintiffe , by vertue of which he both cals his aduersary to appearance , and to produce his witnesses . If the case fall out to be more litigious , and of greater consequence then can easily be ended , it is then referred to twelue men , whom they terme The Keyes of the Iland . Another happinesse enricheth this Iland , namely the securitie and gouernment thereof , as being defended from neighbour enemies by Souldiers that are prest and ready ; for on the South-side of the I le stands Bala-Curi ( the Bishops chiefe place of residence ) and the Pyle , and a Block-house standing in a little Iland , where there is a continuall Garrison of Souldiers . And it is so well managed for matter of rule and ciuill discipline , that tuery man there possesseth his owne in peace and safetie . No man liues in dread or danger of losing what he hath . Men are not there inclined to robbing or theeuing , or licentious liuing .

(6) The Inhabitants of this Iland are for the most part religious , and louing to their Pastors , to whom they doe much reuerence and respect , frequenting daily to diuine Seruice , without diuision in the Church or innouation in the Common-weale . The wealthier sort , and such as hold the fairest possessions , doe imitate the people of Lanca-shire , both in their honest carriage and good house-keeping . Howbeit , the common sort of people both in their language and manners , come nighest vnto the Irish , although they somewhat rellish and fauour of the qualities of the Norwegians .

(7) Things not worthy to be buryed in the graue of obliuion are , that this Iland in the midst thereof riseth vp with hils , standing very thicke ; amongst which the highest is called Sceafull , from whence vpon a cleare and faire day , a man may easily see three Kingdomes at once ; that is , Scotland , England , and Ireland . This I le prohibits the customary manner ofbegging from doore to doore , detesting the disorders , as well Ciuill as Ecclesiasticall of neighbour Nations . And last , not least , that deserues to be committed to memory , is , that the women of this Country , wheresoeuer they goe out of their doores , gird themselues about with the winding-sheete that they purpose to be buried in , to shew themselues mindfull of their mortalitie : and such of them as are at any time condemned to dye , are sowed within a sacke , and flung from a rocke into the Sea .

(8) The whole Isle is diuided into two parts , South and North , whereof the one resembleth the Scotish in speech , the other the Irish . It is defended by two Castles , and hath seauenteene Parishes , fiue Market-Townes , and many Villages .

A Chronicle of the Kings of MAN . CHAPTER XLIIII .

IT is here very pertinent to the purpose , to insert a small History of this Iland , that the atchieuements heretofore had , may not be vtterly buryed , although they are waxen very old , and almost torne from remembrance by the teeth of Time . It is confessed by all , that the Britaines held this Iland , as they did all Britaine . But when the Nations from the North ouerflowed those South parts , like violent tempests , it became subiect to the Scots . Afterwards , the Norwegians who did most hurt from the Northerne Sea by their manifold robberies , made this Iland and the Hebrides to be their baunt , and erected Lords and petry Kings in the same , as is expressed in this Chronicle , written ( as is reported ) by the Monkes of the Abbey of Russin .

A Chronicle of the Kings of MAN .

ANno Dom. 1065. Edward , of blessed memory , King of England , departed this life , and Harald the Sonne of Godwyn succeeded him in the Kingdome : against whom Harald Harfager ( King of Norway ) came into the field , and fought a Battle at Stainford-bridge : but the English obtaining the victory , put them all to flight . Out of which chase Godred , surnamed Crovan , the sonne of Harald the blacke of Iseland , came vnto Godred the sonne of Syrric , who Raigned then in Man , and honourably receiued him .

(2) The same yeare William the Bastard Conquered England , and Godred the son of Syrric died , his sonne Fingal succeeding him .

(3) An. 1066. Godred Crovan assembled a great Fleet , and came to Man , and sought with the people of the Land , but receiued the worst , and was ouercome .

The second time renewing his Forces and his Fleet , he failed into Man , and ioyned Battle with the Manksmen , but was vanquished as before , and driuen out of the field . Howbeit , what he could not at first bring to passe with power in those two seuerall onsers , he afterward effected by policie . For the third time gathering a great multitude together , he arriued by night in the hauen called Ra●sey , and hid three hundred men in a Wood , which stood vpon the hanging hollow brow of an hill called Sceafull . The Sunne being risen , the Manksmen put their people in order of Battle , and with a violent charge encountred with Godred . The fight was hot for a time , and stood in a doubtfull suspence , till those three hundred men starting out of the Ambush behinde their backes , began to foile the Manksmen , put them to the worst , and forced them to flie . Who seeing themselues thus discomfited , and finding no place of refuge left them to escape , with pitifull lamentation submitted themselues vnto Godred , and besought him not to put to the sword such poore remainder of them as was left aliue . Godred hauing compassion on their calamities , ( for he had beene nursed for a time and brought vp among them ) sounded a retreat , and prohibited his Host any longer perfuie . He being thus possessed of the I le of Man , dyed in the Iland that is called Ile , when he had raigned sixteene yeares . He left behinde him three sonnes , Lagman , Harald , and Olaue .

(4) Lagman the eldest , taking vpon him the Kingdome , raigned seauen yeares . His brother Harald rebelled against him a great while ; but at length was taken prisoner by Lagman , who caused his members of generation to be cut off , and his eyes to be put out of his head , which crueltie this Lagman afterwards repenting , gaue ouer the Kingdome of his owne accord , and wearing the badge of the Lords Crosse , tooke a iourney to Ierusalem , in which he dyed .

(5) An 1075. all the Lords and Nobles of the Iland● hearing of the death of Lagman , dispatched Ambassadours to Murecard O-brien , King of Ireland , and requested that he would send some worthy and industrious man of the Bloud Royall to be their King , till Olaue the sonne of Godred came to full age . The King yeelding to their request , sent one Dopnald the sonne of Tade , and charged him to gouerne the Kingdome ( which by right belonged to another , ) with lenitie and gentlenesse . But after be was come to the Crowne , forgetting , or not weighing the charge that his Lord and Master had giuen him , swayed his place with great tyranny , committing many outrages and cruelties , and so raigned three yeares : till all the Princes of the Ilands agreeing together , rose vp against him , and made him flie into Ireland .

(6) An. Dom. 1111. Olaue the sonne of Godred Crouan aforesaid , began his raigne , and raigned fortie yeares a peaceable Prince . He tooke to wife Affrica , the daughter of Fergus of Gal-way , of whom he begat Godred . By his Concubines he had Raignald , Lagman , and Harald , besides many daughters , whereof one was married to Summerled , Prince of Herergaidel , who caused the ruine of the Kings of the Ilands . On her he begat foure sonnes , Dulgal , Raignald , Engus , and Olaue .

(7) An. Dom. 1144 Godred the sonne of Olaue , was created King of Man , and raigned thiritie yeares . In the third yeare of his raigne the people of Dublin sent for him , and made him their King . Which Mure-card King of Ireland maligning , raised warre , and sent Osibeley his halfe brother by the mothers side with 3000. men at Armes to Dublin , who by Godred and the Dublinians was slaine , and the rest all put to flight . These atchieuements made , Godred returned to Man , and began to vse tyranny , turning the Noblemen out of their inheritances . Whereupon one called Thorfin ( vtters sonne ) being mightier then the rest , came to Summerled , and made Dulgal ( Summerleds sonne ) King of the Ilands : whereof Godred hauing intelligence , prepared a Nauie of 80. Shippes to meet Summerled . And in the yeare 1156. there was a Battle fought at Sea on Twelfth day at night , and many slaine on both sides But the next day they grew to a pacification , and diuided the Kingdome of the Ilands among themselues . This was the cause of the ouerthrow of the Kingdome of the Iles.

(8) Ann 1158. Summerled came to Man , with a fleet of fiftie three saile , put Godred to flight , and wasted the Iland . Godred vpon this crossed ouer to Norway for ayde against Summerled . But Summerled in the meane time arriuing at Rhinfrin , and hauing gathered together : fleet of 160 ships , couerting to subdue all Scotland , by the rust iudgement of God , was vanquished by a few , and both himselfe and his sonne slaine , with an infinite number of people .

(9) The fourth day after , Raignald , began to raigne , but Godred comming vpon him out of Norway with a great multitude of Armed men , tooke his brother Raignald , and be rest him both of his eyes and genitall members . On the fourth Ides of Nouember , An. Dom. 1187. Godred King of the Ilands dyed , and his body was translated to the I le of Ely ▪ He left behinde him three sonnes , Raignald , Olaue , and Yuar . He ordained in his life time that Olaue should succeed him , because he onely was borne legitimate . But the people of Man seeing him to be scarce ten yeares old , sent for Raignald , and made him their King . I his caused great diuision , and many turbulent attempts betweene the two Brethren for the space of thirtie eight yeares ; which had no end , till at a place called Tnigualla there was a battle strucke betweene them , wherein Olaue had the victory , and Raignald was slaine . The Monkes of Russin translated his body vnto the Abbey of S. Mary de Fournes , and there interred it in a place which himselfe had chosen for that purpose .

( 10 ) An. 1230. Olaue and Godred Don ( who was Raignalds sonne ) with the Norwegians came to Man , and diuided the Kingdome among themselues . Olaue held Man , and Godred being gone vnto the Ilands , was slaine in the I le Lodhus So Olaue obtained the Kingdome of the Isses . He dyed the twelfth Calends of Lune , Anno 1237. in Saint Patrickes Iland , and was buryed in the Abbey of Russin .

( 11 ) Harrold his sonne succeeded him , being foureteene yeares of age , and raigned 12 yeares . In the yeare 1239. he went vnto the King of Norway , who after two yeares confirmed vnto him , his heyres and successours , vnder his Seale , all the Ilands which his predecessours had possessed .

( 12 ) An. 1242. Harrold returned out of Norway , and being by the Inhabitants honourably receiued , had peace with the Kings of England and of Scotland . The same yeare he was sent for by the King of Norway , and married his daughter . In the yeare 1249. as he returned homeward with his wife , he was drowned in a tempest neere vnto the coasts of Radland .

( 13 ) An Dom. 1249. Raignald the sonne of Olaue , and brother to Harrold , began his raigne , and on the thirtieth day there of was slaine by one Yuar a Knight , in a meadow neere vnto the holy Trinitie Church , and lyeth buryed in the Church of S. Mary of Russin .

( 14 ) In the yeare 1252. Magnus , the sonne of Olaue , came to Man and was made King . The next yeare following he went to the King of Norway , and stayed there a yeare .

( 15 ) In the yeare 1265. Magnus ( Olaues sonne ) King of Man , and of the Ilands , departed this life , at the Castle of Russin , and was buryed in the Church of S. Mary of Russin .

( 16 ) In the yeare 1266. the Kingdome of the Ilands was translated , by reason of Alexander King of Scots , who had gotten into his hands the Westerne Ilands , and brought the I le of Man vnder his dominion , as one of that number .

HOLY ILAND . CHAPTER XLV .

THis Iland is called Lindisfarne , by the Riuer Lied that is opposite vnto it on the Coast of Northumberland . Beda termeth it a Deiny Iland . The Britaine name it 〈…〉 , for that it twice euery day suffreth an extraordinary inundation and ouer-flowing of the Ocean in manner of an Iland , which twice likewise makes it continent to the Land , and returning vnto her watrie habitation , layes the Shoare bare againe , as before . It is called in English , Holy-Iland , for that in ancient times many Monkes haue beene accustomed to retire themselues thither , and to make it their receptacle for solitude : hauing on the West and South , Northumberland , and more South-Eastward the Iland Farne .

(2) The forme of it is long and narrow , the West side narrower then the East , and are both conioyned by a very small spang of land that is left vnto Comes . The South is much 〈◊〉 then the rest It is from East to West , about two thousand two hundred and fiftie pases ; and from North to South , twelue hundred and fiftie pases ; so that the circumference cannot be great .

(3) The ayre is not very good either for health or delight , as being seated on those parts that are subiect to extremitie of cold , and greatly troubled with vapours and toggy mists that arise from the Seas .

(4) The soile cannot be rich , being rockie and full of stones , and vnfit for Corne and T●●age . It is neither commended for hils to seed sheepe , nor pastures to fit Cattle , 〈…〉 replenished with sweet springs , or running riuellets , onely one excepted , 〈…〉 standing pond . The onely thing this Iland yeeldeth , is a stand accomodate 〈…〉 and fowling .

(5) Notwithstanding , this is very worthy of note concerning the same , which Alcun wrote in an Epistle to Egelred King of Northumberland , namely , that it was a place more venerable then all the places of Britaine , and that after the departure of S. Paulinus from Yorke , there Christian Religion began in their Nation , though afterwards it there felt the first beginning of misery and calamitie , being left to the spoyle of Pagans and M●●●oants .

(6) It is also remembred of this Iland , that sometimes there hath beene in it an Episcopall See , which A●dan the Scot instituted ( being called thither to Preach the Christian Faith to the people of Northumberland ) being thus delighted with the solitary situation thereof , as a most fit place for retire . But afterwards when the Danes●isled ●isled and robbed all the Sea-Coasts , the Episcopall See was translated to Durham .

(7) This Iland so small in account either for compasse or Commoditie , and so vnpeopled and vnprofitable , cannot be numerous in Townes and Villages . It hath in it onely one Towne , with a Church and a Castle , vnder which there is a commodious Hauen , defended with a Block-house , situate vpon in hill towards the South-East .

FARNEILE .

THis I le South-eastward seuen miles from Holy Iland , sheweth it selfe distant almost two miles from Bambrough Castle . On the West and South it beareth vpon Northumberland , and on the North-east-side it hath other smaller Ilands adioyning to it , as Widopens & Staple Iland , which lie two miles off Bronsinan , and two lesser then these , which are called the Wambes .

(2) The forme of this I le is round , and no larger in compasse then may easily be ridden in one halfe of a day . The bredth of it is but fiue miles , and the length no more . The whole circumference extends it selfe no further then to fifteene miles .

(3) The ayre is very vnwholesome , and subiect both to many Dysenteries and other diseases , by reason of the mistie fogges and exhalations that are thereunto drawne vp from the Ocean . It is many times troubled with vnusuall tempests of windes , with boisterous fury of stormy raines , and with seuerall and vncouth rages of the Sea .

(4) The soile cannot be fertile , being encircled about with craggy clifts ; neither hath it in it much matter either of pleasure or profit . It can neither defend it selfe from cold , lacking fuell , as Wood , Coale , Turffes , &c. nor from famine , wanting food , as Corne , Pastures , Cattle , &c. The best commoditie it yeelds , is Fish and Fowle .

(5) This thing neuerthelesse is worthy to be remembred of it , which Beda ( writing of the life of Cuthbert Bishop of Lindisfarne , that Tutelar Pa●ron of the Northerne Englishmen ) reporteth , namely , that in this I le he built a Citie fitting his gouernment , and erected certaine houses in the same ; the whole building standing almost round in compasse , and reaching the space of foure or fiue pearches . The wall about it he made higher then a mans height , to with-hold and keepe in the want on lasciuiousnesse both of his thoughts and eyes , and to eleuate the whole intention of his minde vp to heauenly desires , that he might wholly giue himselfe to the seruice of God . But these are all made the ruines of time , as sithence many other Monuments haue beene , of worthy antiquitie .

(6) I cannot report that there are now many houses standing in it , much lesse Townes or Villages . Onely this , that it hath a Tower or place of Fortification belonging vnto it , placed well-neere in the middle part of the I le .

GARNSEY .

THis Iland lieth about fiue leagues Northwest from Iersey , and is compassed ( like to her neighbour ) with the British Sea . It lieth in length from Plymouth bay South-west , to Lancrosse de Ancke●● Northeast , thirteene miles : in bredth from S. Martins point Southeast , to the Howe Northwest nine miles ; and is in circuit thirtie sixe miles . The Emperour Antonine hauing the rule and domination of France ( at that time called Gaule , from whence the word Gallia is deriued ) did name this Iland Sarnia , which afterward by the change of Times and corruption of Languages , was long since ( and is at this day ) called Garnsey .

(2) This I le in forme and fashion standeth in the Sea , much like to a Parke that is incompassed round about with a Pale of Rockes , being very defensible vnto the Iland from the attempting innouation of enemies .

(3) The Aire and Climate of this I le hath little or no difference in temper or qualitie from that of Iersey . And this deserues to be remembred of it ; that in this I le is neither Toade , Snake , Adder , or any other venemous creature , and the other hath great plentie .

(4) It standeth for the most part vpon a rocke , very high in many places from the Sea . Neuerthelesse the Soile is very fruitfull , yeelding forth great plentie of grasse for their Sheepe and other Cattell , which they haue to serue all vses ▪ Their fields in the Summer time are so naturally garnished with flowers of all sorts , that a man ( being there ) might conceit himselfe to be in a pleasant artificiall garden .

(5) The Inhabitants are not so much giuen to tillage as they of Iersey , though the soile be as fruitfull . They haue of late taken great delight in planting and setting of trees of all sorts , and especially of Apples , by reason whereof they make much Cider . Their commodities are alike , and their helpes from the Sea no lesse , or rather more .

(6) In this I le are many great steepe Rocks , among which is found a hard stone called by the Frenchmen Smyris , which we terme Emerill . This stone is seruiceable for many purposes , and many Trades , as Glasiers , &c. but especially for the Goldsmiths and Lapidaries , to cut their precious stones .

(7) It hath a head of Land vpon the North part thereof , the passage into which is so narrow , that a man would thinke that at euery Tyde ( the Sea beating strongly on both sides ) it were in a continuall danger to be sundred from the other part of the I le . This place is called S. Michaelin the Vale , where ( in former times ) stood a Priory , or a Couent of religious persons , the ruines whereof are at this day to be seene .

(8) The gouernment of this I le , in nature and forme resembles the other of Iersey , of whom shall be said . The people in their Originall and Language alike also , but in their customes and conditions they come neerer the ciuill fashions of the English . Other matters of moment I finde not worthy to be recorded .

It hath ten Parishes , and one Market-Towne , being also a Hauen , and is called S. Peters Port , built close by the Peere , and Castle Cornet .

IERSEY .

THe two Ilands Iersey and Garnsey , being the onely remaines of the Dukedome of Normandie , that in former times many yeares together was in the possession , and vnder the command of the Kings of England , annexing thereunto a large Territory and glorious title to the Crowne , are both seated in the Sea called Mare Britannicum , the Ocean parting them a good distant asunder , and are now both adiuncts , and within the circuit of Hampshire . For the first ( being the Isle of Iersey ) it lyeth vpon the British Sea , hauing on the North parts the coasts of Hampshire , and on the South the Country of Normandy .

(2) This Iland is long , not much vnlike the fashion of an Egge . It containes in length from Sentwon Poole vpon the West , to Mount Orguil Castle on the East , ten miles , and in bredth from Dubon point to Plymount-bay six miles : the whole circuit of the Iland being thirtie eight miles ▪ It is distant from a little Iland called Alderney , about foure leagues . It was in old time called Caesaria ; whether from Iulius Octanius , or any the other Caesars that followed , is vnknowne . But the French-men haue by corruption of speech long time called it Iersey .

(3) It is a very delightsome and healthfull Iland , and giueth a pleasant aspect vnto the Seas . It lyeth Southward not farre from a craggie ridge of rocks , which is much feared of the Mariners , and makes the passage that way very dangerous , howbeit it serues for a forcible defence against Pirats , or any strangers that attempt inuasion , and they are termed Casquets .

(4) The Soile is very fertile , bringing forth store of Corne and Cattle , but especially of sheepe , that are of reasonable bignesse , the most of them bearing foure hornes a peece : Their wooll very fine and white , of which the Inhabitants make their Iersey stockings , which are ordinarily to be had in most parts of England , and yeeld a great commoditie vnto the Iland .

(5) The first originall of the Inhabitants sprung either from the Normans , or Britaines , or both . They speake French , though after a corrupt manner , and haue continued their names , language , customes , and Country , without any , or little intermixture , these many hundred yeares , hauing beene vnder the jurisdiction of the English euer since the vntimely and vnnaturall death of Robert Duke of Normandie , eldest sonne to William the Conquerour .

(6) The people of this Country liue very pleasantly , as well by the profits of the Land , as the helpes and furtherances of the Sea , that yeelds vnto them ( and especially in Summer season ) great store of fish , but principally Conger and Lobsters , the greatest and fattest vpon the coast of England Wood is very scant , for their best fuell is Turffe : some Coale they haue brought vnto them , but it is very deare ; straw , furre , and ferne seruing their ordinary vses . The middle part of the Iland hath many prety Hils rising in it , yeelding a delightfull obiect vnto the vallies , that receiue from one another a mutuall pleasure .

(7) The Gouernour of the I le is the Captaine thereof , who appointeth certaine Officers vnder him : the principall of whom , carrieth the name and title of a Bailiffe , that in ciuill causes hath the assistance of twelue Iurats to determine of differences , and minister Iustice : in criminall matters seuen : in matters of reason and conscience , fiue . Their twelue are chosen out of the twelue Parishes : so that no man goeth further to complaine , then to his owne Iurate in ordinary Controuersies ; but matters of moment and difficultie are determined before the Bailiffe in a generall meeting .

THE DESCRIPTION OF WALES . CHAPTER I.

ANtiquitie hath auouched , that the whole Isle of Britaine was diuided into three parts ▪ The first and fairest lay contained within the French Seas , the Riuers of Seuerne , Dee , and Humber , called then ●●oyger , which name yet it retaineth in W●●sh ; in English called England . The second part occupied all the land Northward from Humber , to the Orkney Sea , called by the Latines , Mare Caledonium , or Deucaledonium , now famously knowne by the name of Scotland . The third part was this , lying betwixt the Irish Seas , the Riuers Seuerne and Dee , and was called Cambria , which name doth yet continue with them , though we , the English , call it Wales , as the people Welshmen , which is strange and strangers ; for so at this day the dwellers of Tyroll in the higher Germany , whence our Saxons are said to haue come , doe name the Italian ( their next neighbour ) a Welshman , and his language Welsh .

(2) This opinion Verstegan doth altogether contradict , rather iudging by the ancient Tentonicks tongue , which the Germans spake , and wherein the G. is pronounced for W. that these Saxons called them Gallish from the Go●les , whence their originall proceeded , rather then Wallish from strangers : which he thinketh could not be , considering their habitations ●o neere vnto them ; and that the like was in vse , he proueth by the words of French , Gardian for Wardian , Corangalles for 〈◊〉 yea , and Galles for Wales , calling our most famous Edward , Prince of Galles , not Prince of Wales ; insomuch that the County of Lombardy , bordering along vpon the Germans , was of them called Gallia Cis-alpina , and at this day Welsh-land . So likewise doe the Netherlanders call the Inhabitants of Henal● and Artois , Wallen or Wallons , and some parts of Braban● and Flander● , Welsh-Braban● , and Welsh-Flanders , and all because of the language or lineage of the Gaules . Neither do the meere Natiues of Wales know any other name of their Country then Cambria , of themselues , then Cambri or Cumri , or of their language then Cambraoc . But leauing this opinion free to his affection , we will proceed ▪

(3) Wales therefore being anciently bounded as before , the Saxons did afterwards win by force from the Britaines , all the plaine and champion Country ouer the Riuer Dee ; and especially Offa King of Mercia , made their limits straiter , by making a ditch of great bredth & depth , to be a Meere betwixt his Kingdome and Wales . This ditch is in many places to be seene at this day , and beares the name of Claw● Offa , that is , Offaes Ditch . The Country betweene it and England is commonly called the Marches , and is for the most part inhabited by Welshmen , especially in North-Wales , euen to the Riuer Dee . This admirable Trench began at Bassingwerke in Flintshire , betweene Chester and Ruthlan , and ran along the hils to the South Sea , a little from Bristow , reaching aboue an hundred miles in length .

(4) Siluester Giraldus makes the Riuer Wye to be the Meare betweene England and Wales , on the South part , called South-Wales : whence he ascribeth the breadth of Wales vnto Saint Dauids in Meneuia , to be an hundred miles ; and the length from Caerleon vpon Vske in Gwentland , to Holly head in Anglesey , an hundred miles , he might haue said thirtie more .

(5) About the yeare of Christ 870. our Alfred raigning in England , Rodericus Magnus King of Wales did diuide it into three , Talaiths , Regions , or Territories , which were called Kingdomes . This Rodericus Magn●● gaue Venedotia , Gwineth or North-Wales , to Anarawd his eldest sonne ; to Cadeth his second sonne , Demetia , Deheubarth or South-Wales ; and to Meruin his third sonne , Powys .

(6) North-Wales had vpon the North side , the Irish Sea , from the Riuer Dee at Bassingwerke to Aberdyni : vpon the West and South-West , the Riuer Dyni , which diuideth it from South-Wales , and in some places from Powysland . And on the South and East , it is diuided from Powys , sometimes with high hils , and sometimes with Riuers , till it come againe to the Riuer Dee . It is generally full of high mountaines , craggie rockes , great woods , and deepe vallies , many straight dangerous places , deepe and swift Riuers .

(7) This Land was of old time diuided into foure parts , Môn , Aruon , Meryonyth , and y Berued●wlan , or the middle Country , and each of these were againe diuided into seuerall Cantrenes , and they subdiuided into their Cymeden or Commots , wherein we follow that diuision which was in the time of Llewylyn ap Gruffin , last Prince of Wales , according to a Copie imparted to me by a worshipfull friend and learned Antiquarie , as seeming farre more exact then that of Doctor Powels .

(8) Anglesey the chiefest , is separated from the maine Land with the Riuer 〈◊〉 , wherein at Aberfraw was the Princes Court , now a meane village . In this Iland is a faire Towne called Beaumarish , and a common passage to Ireland at Caergy●i , in English , Holly-head .

(9) Aruon , the second part of North-Wales , is now called Carnaruonshire , the strongest Country within that Principalitie , giuing place to none for fertilitie of the ground , of for plentie of Wood-Castle , Fish , and Fowle , &c. Here are the Townes of Ca●●naruon , in old time called Caer-Segon● , and Bangor the Bishops See , with diuers other ancient Castles , and places of memory . This portion hath on the North , the Sea and Moena● ; vpon the East and South-east , the Riuer 〈◊〉 , which diuideth it from Denbigh-shire : and on the South-west is separated from Merioneth , by Riuers , Mountaines , and Meares .

( 10 ) Merioneth was the third part of Gwyneth , and keepeth the name till this day : is full of hilles , and much noted for the resort of people that repaire thither to take Hertings . Vpon the North it hath Aruon and Denbigh-land ; vpon the South , Caerdigan-shire ; and vpon the East , Montgomery-shire , heretofore part of Powys . In this Countie standeth the Towne of Harleth , and a great Lake called Ilyn Tegyd . This Country is likewise full of Cattle , Fowle , and Fish , and hath in it great store of redde Deere and Roes , but there is much scarcitie of Corne.

( 11 ) Y Beruedhwlad was the fourth part of Gwyneth , and may be called in English , The middle Country : is inclosed with hilles , on the East , West , and South-parts , and with the Sea Northward . It is plentifull of Cattle , Fish , and Fowle , as also of Corne : and is diuided in the middest with the Riuer Clwyd , to which run a number of other Riuers from the hilles . In this part is Dyffryn Clwyd , the fairest Valley within Wales , containing eighteene miles in length , and seauen in breadth . In which is the Towne and Castle of Ruthlan , neere vnto the Sea ; and not farre thence , S. Assaph , an Episcopall seat , betweene the Riuers Clwyd and Elwy . Herein stands the faire Towne and goodly Castle of Denbigh , situated vpon a Rocke , the greatest Market-Towne of North-Wales : and from thence is seene the Towne and Castle of Ruthyn , faire for prospect , and fruitfull for site . This part of North-Wales , hath the Sea vpon the North ; Dee toward the East ; Aruon , the Riuer Conwey , and Merionyth vpon the West ; and the Country then called Powys , vpon the South .

And these were the Meares and bounds of the foure parts of Venedotia , Gwyneth , or North-Wales .

( 12 ) The second Talaith or Kingdome , was Mathraual or Powys . To this belonged the Country of Powys , and the Land betweene Wye and Seuerne . It had South-Wales vpon the South and West , with the Riuers Wye and Tywy , and other Meares : vpon the North , Gwyneth ; and vpon the East , the Marches of England , from Chester to Wye , a little aboue Hereford . This part was diuided into Powis Vadoc , Powis betweene Wye and Seuerne , and Powis Wenwynwyn In Powis Vadoc is the Castle of Holt in Bromefeild , and the Castle of Chirke in Chirkeland ; the Castle likewise of Whittington ; and Lordship of Oswestrie , with others .

( 13 ) The second part of Powis , or the Territory belonging to Mathraual , is Powis betweene Wye and Seuerne , ( or Gwy and Hauren ) whereof some is at this day in Montgomery-shire , some in Radnor-shire , and some in Brecknock-shire ; and among sundry other , hath these Townes and Castles following .

Montgomery : The Castle of Clyn : The Towne of Knighton : The Castle of Cymaron : Presteyn : The Towne and Castle of Radnor , called in Welsh , Maesyuet , which is at this day the Shire-Towne : The Towne of Kinton , and the Castle of Huntingdon .

( 14 ) The third part belonging to Mathranal ( chiefe seat of Powys , after the Welsh were driuen from Pengwern or Shrewsburie ) was Powys Wenwynwyn ; a Country full of Woods , Hilles , and Riuers , hauing in it among others , the Townes of Welsh-Poole , Newtowne , Machinhaeth Arustly was anciently in this part , but afterward it came to the Princes of Gwyneth .

This may suffice , for the description of that which in old time was called Gwyneth and Powys .

( 15 ) It now remaineth that we describe the last kingdome of Wales , called Demetia , Deheubarth , or the Talaith of Dineuowr , which although it was the greatest , yet was it not the best , because it was much molested with Flemings and Normans , and for that also diuers parts thereof would not obey their Prince , as in Gwent , and in Morganw● .

( 16 ) This was diuided into sixe parts , of which Caerdigan was the first , and is a Champion Countrey , without much Wood . It hath Merionyth-shire on the North : part of Powys vpon the East : Carmarden-shire and Pembroke-shire , with the Riuer Tiu● , vpon the South : and vpon the West , the Irish Sea . In this part is the Towne of Caerdigan vpon Tiu● , not farre from the Sea ; as also the Towne of Aberstwyth vpon the Riuer Istwyth ; and Lhanbadarneuowr , which in times past was a great Sanctuary : there were also many Castles ; as of Stratneyrie , of Walter , of Lhanrysted , of Dyuer●h , and of Aber Roydell , &c.

( 17 ) The second part was called Dyuet , and at this day Penbroke-shire . It hath vpon the North and West , the Irish Sea ; vpon the East , Carmarden-shire ; and vpon the South , Seuerne . There are in it sundry Townes and Hauens : among others , these : Penbroke : Tenby : Hereford West , with the goodly and many branched Hauen of Milford , called in Welsh , Aberdangledhett : S. Dauids , or Meneui● , which is the chiefest See in Wales : Fiscard , called Aberwayn : and Newport , named Tresdreth .

( 18 ) The third part was Caermarden-shire , which is a Country accounted the strongest part of all South-Wales : as that which is full of high Mountaines , great Woods , and faire Riuers .

( 19 ) The fourth , called Morganwe , now Glamorgan-shire , hath on the South , the Seuerne Sea , which diuideth it from Deuonshire and Cornewall : vpon the West and North-west , Carmarden-shire : vpon the North-east , Breckneck-shire ; and vpon the East , Monmouth-shire .

( 20 ) The fift , now called Gwent , and in Monmouth-shire , hath in it the ancient Citie of Caerlbeon vpon Vske . There are also diuers Townes and Castles , Chepstow , Glynstrygul , R●s , Tynterne vpon the Riuer Wye , &c. This is a faire and fertile Country . It hath on the West , Glamorgan and Brecknock-shires : vpon the North , Hereford-shire : vpon the East , Glocester-shire : with the Riuer Wye and the Riuer Seuerne vpon the South and South-east .

( 21 ) The last is Brecknock-shire , for the most part full of Mountaines , Woods , and Riuers . This Country is both great and large , being full of faire plaines and vallyes for Corne : it hath plentie of the thicke Woods , Forrests , and Parkes . It is full also of cleere and deepe Riuers , of which Seuerne is the chiefest ; although there be other faire Riuers , as Vske and the like .

( 22 ) Thus farre concerning the ancient Welsh diuision by Talaiths : but the present diuision distributeth them more compendiously into two Countries , and twelue Shires , enacted so by Parlament vnder King Henry the eight . The Countries are North-Wales and South-Wales , which haue shared , and as it were deuoured betweene them , all Powysland ; each of which Countries containes sixe Shires .

North-Wales . Anglesey . Ca●●●aruon . Merionyth . Denbigh . Flint . Montgomery South-Wales . Caerdigan . Pembroke . Carmarden . Glamorgan . Brecknocks . Radn●r .

PEMBROKE-SHIRE . CHAPTER II.

PEMBROKE-SHIRE , the furthest Promontory of all West-Wales , lieth parted on the North from Cardigan-shire with the Riuers Ty●y and Keach ; and on the East is confronted by Caermarden-shire ; the South and West shooting farre into the Irish Seas , is with the same altogether washed .

(2) The forme thereof is longer then it is broad ; for from S : 〈◊〉 South-point to Cardigan-bridge in the North , are twentie-sixe miles ; the Easterne Landenie to S. Dauids point in the West , are twentie miles ; the whole in circumference is nintie three miles .

(3) The Aire is passing temperate , by the report of Giraldus , who confirmeth his reason from the site of Ireland , against which it butteth , and so neere adioyned , that King Rufus thought it possible to make a Bridge of his Shippes ouer the Sea , whereby he might passe to Ireland on foot .

(4) Anciently it was possessed by the Demetia , further branched into Cardigan and Caermarden-shires , as in that County hath beene said , and in the Saxons Conquest and Heptarchte , by the Britaines forced into those parts for refuge , whither Henry the first , and third of the Normans King , sent certaine Flemings ( whose Country was ouer-whelmed with the breaking 〈◊〉 of the Seas ) to inhabite the maritine Tract called Rosse , lying West vpon the Riuer Dougledye . Thess Dutchmen ( saith Giraldus ) were a strong and stout Nation , inured to Warres , and accustomed to seeke gaine by Clothing , Traffique , and Tillage , and euer readie for the Field to fight it out : adding withall , that they were most loyall to the English , and most faithfull to the English-men . Whereupon Malmesbury writeth thus : Many a time did King William Rufus assaile the Welsh , but euer in vaine : which is to be wondred at , considering his other fortunate successe . But ( saith he ) it may be the vneuennesse of the ground , and sharpnesse of the aire , that maintained their courage , and impeached his valour : which to redresse , King Henry his brother found meanes ; for those Flemings , who in regard of his mothers kindred by the fathers side , sorely pestred and endammaged the English , he sent into Wales , both to purge and disburden his owne Kingdome , and to quell and keepe backe the courage of his enemies . These men here seated , deceiued not his expectation , but so carried themselues in his quarrell , that they seldome communicated with their neighbours , so that to this day they speake not the Language , and the Country is yet called Little England beyond Wales .

(5) The commodities of this Shire are Corne , Cattle , Sea-Fish , and Fowle , and in Giraldus his dayes of saleable Wines , the Hauens being so commodious for Ships arriuage : such is that at Tenby , and Milford , an Hauen of such capacitie , that sixteene Creekes , fiue Bayes , and thirteene Roades , knowne all by seuerall names , are therein contained , where Henry of Richmond , of most happie memory arriued with signall hopes of Englands freedome from vnder the gouernment of an vsurping Tyrant .

(6) Neere vnto this is Pembroke the Shire-Towne seated , more ancient in shew then it is in yeares , and more houses without Inhabitants , then I saw in any one Citie thorowout my suruey . It is walled long-wise , and them but indifferent for repaire , containing in circuit eight hundred and fourescore pases , hauing three Gates of passage , and at the West end a large Castle , and locked-causey , that leads ouer the water to the decayed Priory of Monton . The site of this Towne is in the degree of Longitude , as Mercator doth measure , 14. and 55. minutes , and the eleuation from the North-pole in the degree of Latitude 52.

(7) A Citie as barren is old Saint Dauids , neither clad with Woods , nor garnished with Riuers , nor beautified with Fields , nor adorned with Meadowes , but lieth alwayes open both to winde and stormes . Yet hath it beene a Nursery to holy men ; for herein liued Calph●●rnius , a Britaine Priest , whose wife was Concha , sister to Saint Martin , and both of them the parents of Saint Patricke the Apostle of Ireland . Deus a most religious Bishop , made this an Archiepiscopall See , remoued from Is●a Legionum . This the Britaines call Tuy Dewy , the house of Deui ; we Saint Dauids : a Citie with few Inhabitants ; yet hath it a faire Cathedrall Church , dedicated to Saint Andrew and Dauid , in the middest of whose Quire lieth intombed Edmund Earle of Richmond , father to King Henry the seuenth : whose Monument ( as the Prebends told me ) spared their Church from other defacements , when all went downe vnder the hammers of King Henry the eight . About this is a faire wall , and the Bishops Palace all of free stone , a goodly house I assure you , and of great receit , whose vncouered tops cause the curious workes in the walles daily to weepe , and them to feare their downefall ere long .

(8) But Monton the Priorie , and S. Dogmels , places of deuout pietie erected in this Countie , found not the like fauour , when the commission of their dissolutions came downe against them , and the axes of destruction cut downe the props of their walles .

RADNOR-SHIRE . CHAPTER III.

RADNOR-SHIRE lieth bordered vpon the North with the County Monmouth ; vpon the East toucheth Shropshire and Herefordshire : the Riuers Clarwen and Wye diuide it from Breknock in the South : and the West part doth shorten point-wise into Caerdigan-shire .

(2) The forme thereof is in proportion triangle , euery side almost containing a like distance : for from West to North are twentie miles ; from North to South , twenty two miles ; and from South to West are twentie foure miles : the whole in circumference extending to fourescore and ten miles .

(3) The Aire thereof is sharpe and cold ( as most of Wales is ) for that the snow lyeth and lasteth long vnmelted vnder those shadowing high Hils and ouer-hanging Rockes .

(4) The Soile is hungry , though not barren , and that in the East and South the best : the other parts are rough and churlish , and hardly bettered by painfull labour ; so that the riches of the North and West consisteth chiefly in the brood of Cattell .

(5) Anciently this County was possessed by the Silures , a 〈◊〉 people , and great withstanders of the Romans impositions , who had not onely them to fight against , 〈◊〉 withall the vnaccessible Mountaines , wherewith this Shire is so ouerpressed and burdened , 〈◊〉 many times I feared to looke downe from the hanging Rockes , whereunder I passed into those deep● and darke dales , seeming to me an entrance into Limbo . Among these ( as say our Historians ) that hatefull Prince to God and Man , Vortiger , his Countries scourge , and last M●narke of the British bloud , by fire from Heauen was consumed with his incestuous wife , for whom 〈◊〉 nameth the Country where 〈◊〉 Castle stood , Guartiger-Maur , of whose rubbish the Castle Guthremion was raised , as some are of opinion ▪ Yet they of North-Wales will haue his destruction and Castel to stand in their parts ●eere vnto Beth-Kelleck , whereof we will further speake in the relation of his life . Fatall was this place also to Llewellin the last Prince of the British Race , who being betrayed by the men of Duelth , fled into those vast Mountaines of Radnor , where by Adam Francton he was slaine , and his head ( crowned with Iuy ) set vpon the Tower of London .

Places most worthy of note in this Shire , are as ensueth : The first is Radnor , from whom the County receiueth her Name , anciently Magi , where the Commander of the Pacensian Regiment lay , and thought to be the Magnos in Antonine the emperours Suruey . This Towne is pleasantly seated vnder a hill , whereon standeth mounted a large & strong Castle , from whose Bulwarke a Trench is drawne along the West of the Towne , whereon a wall of stone was once raised , as by the remaines in many places appeareth . This Trench doth likewise inuerge her West side so farre as the Riuer , but after is no more seene : whose Graduation is obserued to haue the Pole eleuated for Latitude 52. degrees , and 45 minutes ; and for L●ngitude , from the first point of the West set by Mercator 17. degrees and one minute .

Presiayn for beautious building is the best in this Shire a Towne of Commerce , wonderfully frequented , and that very lately ▪ Next is Knighton , a Market-Towne likewise , vnder which is seene the Clawdh-Offa , or 〈…〉 whose tract for a spa●e I 〈…〉 along the edge of the Mountaine ; which was a bound 〈…〉 the Welsh from the English , by the Mercian King Offa : and by Egbert the Monarke a Law 〈◊〉 , by the instigation of his Wife , that it should be present death for the Welsh to passe ouer the same , as Iohn Beuer the Monke of Westminster reporteth : and the like vnder Harald , as Ioha of Salisbury writeth ; wherein it was ordained , that what Welsh-man soeuer should be found with any weapon on this side of that Limit , which was Offaes Ditch , should haue his right hand cut off by the Kings Officers . The fourth place for account is Raihader Gowy , who besides the great fall of Wye with a continuall noise , hath her Markets there kept vpon the Sabbath , which I there obserued , and here note for an offence .

(7) Many Riuers arise and run thorow this Shire , which were it not that the hils so cluster together , might make the soyle both fertile and fat . Such are Teme , Lug , Ithon , Clowdok , Dulas , Comarton , Somegill , Guithel , Arro , Machaway , Edway , Hawye , Eland , Clarwen and Wye , besides other Loughs that stand betwixt the hilles .

This Shire is diuided into sixe Hundreds , wherein are seated three Forrests , foure Market-Townes , sixe Castles , and fiftie two Parish-Chrches .

BREKNOCK-SHIRE . CHAPTER IIII.

BREKNOCK-SHIRE , in the British language Brechineau , ( so called , as the Welshmen relate , of a Prince named Brechanius , the father of an holy off-spring , whose twentie foure daughters were all of them Saints ) is a County neither very large , not greatly to be praysed or disliked of , whose bounds vpon the North is parted from Radnor with the Riuers Clarwen and Wye : the West lieth butted vpon by Cardigan and Caermarden-shires : the South is confined by Glamorgan ; and the East with Monmouth and Radnor-shire , is wholly bound .

(2) The length of this Shire from North to South , betwixt Llanuth● and Istradgunies , are twentie eight English miles ; and her bredth from East to West , extended betwixt Fentrisso and E●ywell , are twentie miles ; the whole in circumference , about one hundred and two miles .

This County is full of hils , and vneuen for trauell , which on the South part mount in such height , that as Giraldus hath written , They make the aire much colder , and defend the Country from the excessiue heat of the Sunne , whereby acertaine naturall whole 〈◊〉 of aire maketh it most temperate : and on the East side , the Mountaines of Edgar and Ewias doe as ● were fore-fence the same . Among which , there arise and run so many fruite springs that their vallies are thereby made most fertile , yeelding in plentie both Corne and Grasse .

(4) The ancient Inhabitants and possessors of this Shire , with the rest in this South Tract , were the Silures , much spoken of , and gr●at opposites to the Romanes , whose Countries were first made subiect by Iulius Froutinus , who besi●●s the valour of the enemy , had to struggle with the Mountaines and Straits , as Tacitus tels vs ; neither any more hard , we may well say , then them of this Shire ; whereof one in the South , and three miles from Breknock , is of such height and operation , as is vncredible : and were it not that I haue witnesse to affirme what I shall speake , I should blush to let the report thereof passe from my pen : In my perambulations in these parts , remaining in Breknock to obserue the site of that Towne , the Aldermen or chiefe Seniors thereof regarding my paines , with friendly and courteous entertainments at my departure , no lesse then eight of them , that had beene Bailiffes of the Towne , came to visit me ; where they reported vpon their credit and trials , that from the top of that hill , in the Welsh called Mounch-denny , or Cadier Arthur , they had oftentimes cast from them , and downe the North-East Rocke , their Cloakes , Hats , and Staues , which notwithstanding would neuer fall , but were with the aire and winde still returned backe , and blowne vp : neither , said they , will any thing descend from that Cliffe being so cast , vnlesse it be stone or some metalline substance : affirming the cause to be the Clouds , which are seene to racke much lower then the top of that Hill . As strange tales are told of the Meer Llynsauathan , two miles by East from Breknock , which at the breaking of her frozen I●e , maketh a fearefull sound like vnto thunder . In which place , as is reported , sometimes stood afaire Citie , which was swallowed vp in an Earthquake , and resigned her stone-wals vnto this deepe and 〈◊〉 water : whither vnto this day leadeth all the wayes in this Shire : which , as le●●●ed Cambdin●●●ctureth ●●ctureth , might be that Louentrium , which Ptolemy in this tract placeth ; and the most confirmed 〈…〉 name adioyning , being also called Leuenny , which Riuer also passeth through this 〈…〉 the same streame , and no greater then wherewith she first entred in .

(5) The Townes for Commerce , are Hay , Bealt , and Breknock , two of them vnfortunate of their former greatnesse , whom warres and sedition haue defaced a● least downe . Hay vpon Wye and Dulas , pleasant for situation , in the rebellion of Owen Glendower● 〈◊〉 was diswalled , depopulated , and burnt , in whose foundations for new repaires , many Romane Coines haue beene found ; and thereby thought to be the seate of their Legions : and Buelth , now Bealt , though of good frequencie , yet not so great as when Ptolemie obserued her position for graduation , who calleth it Buleum Silurum , neither when it with the Country was possessed by Aurelius Ambrosius , by whose permission Pascentius the sonne of Vortiger ruled all , as Ninius writeth ; nor yet as of later times , when Leolin the last Prince of the Britaines , was therein betrayed and slaine .

(6) Breknock the Shire-Towne , for buildings and beautie retaineth a better regard , whose walles in Ouall-wise are both strong and of good repaire , hauing three Gates for entrance , with tenne Towres for defence , and is in circuit six hundred and fortiepaces about , vpon whose west part a most sumptuous and stately Castle is seated , the like whereof is not commonly seene , whose decayes approaching doe increase her ruines daily , and in the end is feared will be her fall ▪ This Towne is seated vpon the meeting of two Riuers , Houthy and Vske , whose yearely gouernment is committed to two Bailiffes , fifteene Aldermen , two Chamberlaines , two Constables a Towne-Clerke , and two Sergeants their Attendants : hauing the Poles eleuation in 52 ▪ 21. minutes of Latitude , and for Longitude is placed in the 16. and 32. minutes , as the Mathematicians doe measure them .

(7) This Shire is strengthned with ●ine Castles , diuided into sixe Hundreds , wherein are seated three Market-Townes , and fiftie 〈◊〉 Parish-Churches .

CARDIGAN-SHIRE . CHAPTER V.

CARDIGAN-SHIRE , ( in the Welsh called Sire Aber-Tiui ) is parted on the North from Merioneth-shire with the Riuer Doui ; by the Plinillimon hilles from Montgomery-shire in part of her East ; and the rest from Breknock-shire , with the water Towy ; and with Tyuy altogether on the South from Caermarden-shire : the West is wholly washed with the Irish Sea .

(2) The forme thereof is horne-like , bowing compasse , long and narrow , and growing wider still towards the North : so that from Cardigan , the Shire-Towne and vttermost point : in the South , vnto the Riuer Doui , her farthest North bounder , are thirtie two miles : and from the head of Carwen in the East , to Aberysthwyth on her West , the broadest part in the Shire , are onely fifteene : the whole in circumference is one hundred and three miles .

(3) The Aire is open and somewhat piercing ; the soyle is hillie , and Wales-like ) vneuen : yet more plaine and champion towards the Sea , then in the East or North of the Land . For besides that great and high hill called Plinil●●on , a continuall range of lesser doth shoote along , yeelding in their vallies both goodly rich Pastures , and very large Pooles , which being assisted with Springs from the Rockes , doe branch themselues , as veines in the bod● 〈◊〉 make fruitfull their passages vnto the Sea . In Tyuy one of these , as Giraldus 〈…〉 Beauer hath beene found , a creature liuing both by land and water , whose stones the 〈…〉 in great price . His fore-feete are like vnto a dogge , but the hinder whole skinne , as is the 〈…〉 the dogge-like serue him on shore for to run ; and the Goose-like as Oraes giue him swift 〈◊〉 in swimming : this taile broad and gristly , he vseth as a sterne , wherewith on the sudden 〈◊〉 diuert his swift floating course . But this creature in these parts a long time hath not beene seene , whose roome we may well say the Salmon hath possessed , who still coueting into fresh water Riuers , at their downe-right falles vseth this policie : He bendeth himselfe backward , and taketh his taile in his mouth , and with all his strength vnloosing his circle on the sudden ( as a lath let goe ) mounteth vp before the fall of the streame ; whereupon such water-falles are called the Salmons leape : and in these Riuers many such Salmons are caught .

(4) The commodities of this Shire chiefly consist in Cattle , Sea-sowle , and Fish ; Corne sufficient , but of Woods some scarcitie : and at the head of Istwyd are certaine veines of Lead , a merchandize of no meane regard or wealth .

(5) The ancient people that possessed this Prouince , were the Dimetae , by Ptolemie branched thorow the Tracts of Caermarden , Penbrooke , and this Shire ; who in their struglings against the Romans , did not a little relie vpon Caractacus their most warlike King , ( from whose name , though vnlikely , some will haue the Shire called Cardigan ) yet lastly felt the fortune of subiection with the rest , when Iulius Frontinus warred with these Mountaines . Scarce had the Normans setled their Kingdome in Britaine , but that they assailed this Countie , as well to enioy so farre a Possession , as to secure those Seas from any inuasion against them : so that Rufus first wrested from the Welshmen the maritime Coasts , and Henry the first gaue the whole Countie to Gilbert de 〈◊〉 .

(6) This Gi●bert fortified 〈◊〉 the Shire-Towne , with a Wall and strong Castle , whose aged lineaments doe to this day 〈…〉 industry both of nature and Art : for the Towne is seated vpon a steepe banke , her South 〈◊〉 guarded with the deepe Riuer Tyny , and passable no way but by a bridge vnder the Castle . They 〈◊〉 taketh the aduantage of the rising rocks , and circulate the Towne euen round about . The Castle is ●●●gher built vpon a Rocke , both spatious and faire , had not stormes impaired her beautie , and time 〈◊〉 her carkasse a very Anatomie . The walles range as thou seest , and are indifferent for repaire , hauing three wayes for entrance , and containe in compasse six hundred and fourescore pases : whose position for Latitude is set in the degree 52. 33 minutes from the North-pole , and for Longitude from the first West-point by Mercator , in the degree 15. and 10. minutes .

(7) This Shire , as it is little in circuit , so accordingly is besprinkled with Towne-ships , whereof foure onely haue the trade of Markets : neither finde I other remembrance of religious foundations , but at Cardigan , Istradfleet , and at Llan-Badern-Vaur , where sometimes was seated an Episcopall See , which ( as Houeden writeth ) was decayed many yeares since , when the people had wickedly slaine their Pastour . And yet Llan-Deui-breui , built , and so called in memory of the most famous Dauid Bishop of Meneura , was in great esteeme , where in a frequent Synod there holden , he refuted the Pelagian Heresie , sprung vp againe in Britaine , both by the authoritie of holy Scripture , and also by miracle , as is reported , while the earth whereon he stood and preached , rose vp vnto a certaine height vnder his feet ▪

(8) The Shires diuision , for businesses belonging either to the Crowne or Common-wealth , is into fiue Hundreds , wherein are seated for 〈…〉 , and sixtie foure Parish-Churches for Gods diuine and daily seruice .

CAERMARDEN-SHIRE . CHAPTER VI.

CAERMARDEN-SHIRE , so called from the chiefe Towne Caermarden , lieth bordered vpon the North with Cardigan-shire ; vpon her East , by Brecknock and Glamorgan-shires ; vpon the South , with a Bay of the British Seas ; and vpon the West with Pembroke-shire .

(2) The forme of this County is long , and shooteth it selfe from the South-west into the North and by-East , betwixt whose furthest bounds are thirtie fiue English miles , and in her broadest part twentie miles ; the whole in circumferance about one hundred and two miles .

(3) This Shire is not altogether so pestred with hils as her bordering neighbours are : and those that she hath , neither so high nor so thicke , and therefore is better for Corne and Pasturage , yea and in Woods also , so that for victuals this Countie is very well stored , which the stomacke doth as well disgest , the aire being wholesome , temperate , and pleasing ▪

(4) Anciently these parts were possessed by the Di●●●tree , as Ptolemie , Gildas , and Ninius doe name them : though Plinie holds opinion that they were part of the Silures , with whom no doubt they were subdued to the Romans yoke by 〈…〉 , when he struggled with the rockie hils in those Southerne parts And this Countie is 〈…〉 by Writers to be the very strength of South Wales . In the West thereof , at Kilman●● ( as it 〈◊〉 seeme ) their Legions kept , where lately an earthen Po● hoarded with store of 〈◊〉 Coines , was by the spade digged vp , being stamped vpon imbased siluer , from the time of Co●●●odus vnto the first Tribuneship of Gordian the third , which fell in the yeare of Christ two hundred ●●●tie three : and amongst these were the Coines of Heluins Pertinax , Marcu● Opellius , Antonius Di●●●menianus , Iulius Verus Maximus , the sonne of Maximu● , of Calius Balbinus , of Clodius Pupienus , of Aquilta Senera , the wife of Helingaba●● , and of Sall-Barbia Orbi●na , peeces rarely found .

(5) The commodities of this Shire chiefly consist in Cattle , Pit-coale , Fowle , and Sea-fish , whereof the Salmon is common among them , and that of such greatnesse and plentie , as no place is better furnished therewith then the Shire-Towne Caermarden is .

(6) Which Towne by Ptolemie is called Maridunum ; by Antonius the Empe●our , M●ridunum ; by the Britaines , Caer-fridhin ; and by vs , Caermarden . It is pleasantly seated vpon the South-west side of the Riuer Touy , that runneth thorow the middest of this Shire , and falleth South from hence into the British Sea , where before times was a conuenient Hauen for Ships 〈◊〉 , but now is sore pestred with Sands and Shelfes : notwithstanding some small Vessels ascend vp the Riuer , euen vnto the Bridge of this Towne , which is fairely built of free-stone . And ouer the same , vpon a hanging Rocke , standeth a very large Castle , from whose stone-wall another intermingled with bricke rangeth about the Towne , being in circuit one thousand and foure hundred pases . The Inhabitants of this place doe not a little glory of their Merlin who ( at they say ) was therein borne , the sonne of a bad Angell , or of an Incubus spirit , the 〈◊〉 great Apollo , whom Geffrey ap Arthur would ranke with the South saying Seer , or rathe● 〈◊〉 true Prophets themselues ; being none other then a meere Seducer and phantasticall Wizard . 〈◊〉 howsoeuer Alani de Insulis in his Commentaries hath labourered to vnlocke those darke and hidden 〈◊〉 , wherewith his booke is pestred and full , yet was it not without cause forbid the reading by 〈◊〉 Councell of Trent , as vaine , and not worthy of countenance or credit .

At the entrance of the Normans , this Towne was brought vn●● their obedience , and for a long time was distressed with the calamities of warre , yet afterwards it is made by the English Princes the Chaucdry and Exchequer for all South-Wales : and at this day is yearely gouerned by a Maior , who euer after is an Alderman and Iustice of the Peace , two Sheriffes elected out of sixteene Burgesses , all of them in skarlet , a Sword-bearer , a Towne-Clerke , and two Sergeants with Maces : from whence the Pole is raised 52. degrees 15. minutes in Latitude , and for Longitude is in the degree 15. and 30. minutes from the first point in the West , according to Mercator .

(7) East from this place are the ruines of Carreg-Castle , which stood mounted on a high hill , vnder the which many vaults and spacious Caues farre into the ground are seene , wherein is thought the people vnable to fight , were therein secured in time of their Warres . Where also is a Well ( take the report from Giraldus , who writeth it ) that in this place twice in foure and twentie houres ebbing , and twice flowing , resembleth the vnstable motions of the maine Sea .

GLAMORGAN-SHIRE . CHAPTER VII .

GLAMORGAN-SHIRE , as some thinke , named from Prince Morgan the possessor thereof , or according to others , is taken from Morgan an Abbey , founded by William Earle of Glocester , vpon the Sea-shoare in the South of this Shire , lyeth bounded vpon that part altogether with the British Sea ; the West by Loghor , is parted from Caermarden-shire ; the North butteth vpon the Countie of Brekn●ck ; and the East by Remney is diuided from Monmouth .

(2) The forme of this Shire groweth still wider from her West-point , spreaking her broadest touch in the East , betwixt which extreames I finde by measure to be well-neere fortie English miles , and from North to South , not altogether twentie miles : the whole in circumference , about one hundred and twelue miles .

(3) The aire is temperate , and giues mo●●●ntent to the minde , then the soile doth fruit or ease vnto Trauellers . The hils being high and 〈◊〉 , which from the North notwithstanding are lessened as it were by degrees ; and towards 〈◊〉 Sea-coasts , the Country becommeth somewhat plaine , which part is the best both for plentie●● Graine , and populous of Inhabitants . The rest all Mountaine , is replenished with 〈◊〉 which is the best meanes vnto wealth that this Shire doth affoord ; vpon whose Hils you may ●●hold whole Heards of them feeding ; and from whose Rockes , most cleare springing waters 〈◊〉 the vallies trickling , which sportingly doe passe with a most pleasant sound , and did not a little 〈◊〉 my wearied spirits among those vast Mountaines , imployed in their search : whose infancie at first admitted an easie step ouer ; but growne vnto strength , more boldly forbade me such passage , and with a more sterne countenance held on their iourney vnto the British Seas : and Taue among these is accounted for a chiefe .

(4) Vpon whose fall , and East-banke , the fairest Towne of all South-Wales is seated the 〈◊〉 Caerdid , the English Caerdiffe , which Fitz-Haimon fortified with a Wall and Castle , in the raigne of King Rufus , when he and his Norman Knights had ouercome Rhese the Prince of these parts , and thrust out Iestine from his lawfull possession . This Towne he made his owne Seat and Court of Iustice , enioyning his Consorts to giue ayde to this honour , and to hold their portions in vassallage of him . Strong was the Castle , as by the trust therein reposed may well appeare , where the youngest brother Beautlark kept captiue the eldest Curthose , both of them sonnes to the Conquerour , the space of twentie sixe yeares . This Castle is large , and in good repaire , whence the Towne-wall went both South and East to the Riuers side , thorow which , foure Gates enter into the foure windes , and containe in compasse nine hundred and twentie pases ; and along the Riuer ( a sure defence ) vpon her West side , three hundred more ; so that the Towne containeth in circuit twelue hundred and fourescore pases . But as the Taue is a friend to the Towne , in making a Key for arriuage of shipping ; so is she a foe to S. Maries Church in the South , with vndermining her foundations , and threatning her fall . The Towne is gouerned by a Maior , yearely elected out of twelue Aldermen , assisted with other twelue Burgesses , a Towne-Clerke , foure C●●stables , and two Sergeants with Maces : whose site is obserued from the North-Starre to lie in the degree of Latitude , 51. and 49. scruples ; and from the first point in the West , 16. and 53 scrup●●● .

(5) In the same graduation almost is sited the ●itie Landaf , wherein is a Castle and Cathedrall Church , dedicated to S. Telean , Bishop of the same , without any other memorable matter worthy the speaking of .

(6) of●●aldus ●●aldus , who affirmeth that in a Rocke or Cliffe vpon the Sea side , and Iland Barry , lying neere the South-●●st point of this County , is beard out of a little Chinke ( let him take heed what he saith ) the noise as it 〈◊〉 of Smiths at their worke ; one whiles the blowing of Bellowes to increase the heat , then the stroakes of the Hammer , and sound of the 〈◊〉 ; sometimes the noise of the Grind-stone in grinding of Iron tooles ; then the hissing sparkes of Steele-gads , as they flie from their beating , with the puffing noise of flames in a Furnace . And whether this is the place whereof Clemens Alexandrinus speaketh , I determine not ; where in his writings he hath these words : They that haue recorded Histories ( saith he ) doe say that in the I le of Britaine , there is a certaine Hole or Ca●e vnder the bottome of an Hill , and on the top thereof a gaping Chinke , into the which when the winde is gathered , and tossed to and fro● in the wombe or concauitie thereof , there is heard aboue , a sound of Cymbals : for the winde being driuen backe from his hole , is forced to make a loud sound at her vent .

(7) More Westward from hence , vpon the Riuer Ogmore , and neere vnto Newton , in a sandie plaine about an hundred pases from Seuerne , there springeth a Well , though not of the clearest water , where at the flowing and fulnesse of the Sea , can hardly any water be gotten ; but at the ebbe and fall of tyde it walloweth vp amaine . The cause may be , as Polybius reports of the like at Cadys ; Wherein the windie ayre , when it is depriued of his wonted issues , forcibly returneth , shutting and stopping vp the passages and veines of the Spring , whereby 〈◊〉 waters are kept in . But contrariwise , when the surface thereof is void and emptie of water , the vein●● of the Source or Spring are vnstopped and set free , which then boileth vp in great abundance .

(8) And vpon the same shoare more 〈◊〉 and by West , on the top of a hill called Minyd-Margan , is erected a Monument inscribed wit●● strange Character , and as strange a conceit held thereof by the by-dwellers , whose opinions are possessed , that if any man reade the same , he shall shortly after die .

This Shire , as it is the furthest 〈◊〉 of South-Wales , and lay open to forraine inuasion ; so was is fortified with twentie-fiue stronge . Castles , whereof times and stormes haue deuoured the most : such were Barry , Saint Doneitis , Den●●●owis , Morlashe , Menes●e , Logho● , Llanddeny , Llanquian , Oxwich , Oystermouth , Ognior , Pile , Porkery , Pe●●arth , Winston , Newcastle , Caerfly , Coche , Peullys , 〈◊〉 , Kenfeage , Talla●●● , Treer and Cothy .

Neither was the Countie so ill seated for sufficiency of life , or barren of graine , but that therein were planted places for diuine pietie : such were Neath , Margan , and Caerdif , besides the Episcopall See of Landa● : which last still remaineth ; the other three suppressed among the fall of their like , vnder King Henry the eight .

MERIONETH-SHIRE . CHAPTER X.

MERIONETH-SHIRE , which the Britaines call Sira-Verieneth , and in Latine Mer●inia ; is bordered vpon the North by Carnar●●on and Denbigh-shires , vpon the East with Mongomery , vpon the South by the Riuer Dowy , is parted from Cardigan-shire , and the West side altogether washed with the Irish Seas , whose rage with such vehemency beateth against her bankes , that it is thought and said , some quantitie of the Land hath beene swallowed vp by those Seas .

(2) In forme this Shire somewhat resembleth a Welsh-Harpe , though small is the Musicke that to her Inhabitants she makes , being the roughest , and most vnpleasant to see to ( as Giraldus their owne Historian writeth ) in all Wales . The ayre for great pleasure , nor soyle for great profit , I cannot greatly commend , vnlesse it be for the many and mightie great winds , that for the most part therein doe rage , and the spired hils clustered together so neere and so high , as the same Author affirmeth , that Shepheards vpon their tops falling at oddes in the morning and challenging the field for fight , before they can come together to try out the quarrell , the day will be spent , and the heate of their fury shut vp with their sleepe ,

(3) These mountaines formerly did abound with Wolues , for whose auoydeance Hdgar the peaceable , did impose ( as Malmesbury writeth ) a yearely Tribute of three hundred Wolues , vpon Ludwall Prince of that Country , whereby in three yeares space they were quite destroyed : and now their faces are couered with fruitfull flockes of Sheepe , besides Neate and other Cattell that therein abundantly doe grase , wherein the onely riches of this Shire doth consist : for by reason of the vneuennesse of the soile and rocks so noere the face of the earth , the Plough cannot be 〈…〉 Corne prosper , which some haue imputed to the idlenesse of the Inhabitants , wherein they haue beene greatly wronged .

(4) These people are a part of the Ordonices , of whom we haue spoken , who by the aduantage of these mountaines held out with the longest against the Romanes , and their necks not brought vnder the yoke of bondage , before the dayes of King Edward the first ; since when they haue attempted to east off their subiection to the English , vpon whose stirres raised by Owin Glendouer , who hauing beene a fauorite of King Richard the second , and discontented by King Henry the fourth , in a quarrell with the Lord Grey of Ruthin , that intruded vpon his demaines , quarrelled with the King , and entred into open rebellion and confederacie with all other his rebels , drawing the Welsh-men wholly to his side , in hope to haue had Princes restored of their owne bloud : and he maintained the same with wonderfull pride , policie , and obstinacie for a long time , vntill his consederates followers and fauorates , and his owne courage , credit , and maintenance , were brought so low by that powerfull King , that in the end he perished for very want of food .

(5) Their Townes are not many , neither those that they haue of any stately buildings , whereof Bala , ●olgethe , and Harlech are the Marke●● : 〈…〉 in the North-east of this Countie , in the Welsh 〈◊〉 , in English , Pi●●●le-meane , a great poole of water doth drowne at least eight score Acres of ground : whose 〈…〉 the high land flouds though neuer so great , cannot 〈…〉 bigger by their 〈…〉 but if the 〈◊〉 be●●oubled with ouer great blasts and tempests of wi●des , she in as great a rage riseth and passeth her bankes , as if she would encounter that enemy in fight Into the South whereof the two headed Dee with a pretie sharpe streame entreth , and thorow the same glideth without any mixture of the same water , as the Inhabitants beleeue ; more strongly conceited in their opinion for that the Salmon , vsually taken in Dee , is neuer found in that Poole ; and the fish called Guimad , bred in that Meart , neuer is seene in the Riuer - Dee . South thence neere Dolgelhr , in a lower hill , a great Rampire of stone and compasse is seene , and hath beene some fortification or defence in warre : which whilst we were curious to finde out some instructions thereof , by report this onely we learned , that it was called Caddoryrita Dren , according to the name of her neighbour and farre higher hill .

(6) Vpon the West and Sea-shore of this Shire , Harlech a Market and Major Towne standeth , bleake enough and barren , but onely for Fowle and Fish ; houses not many , neither curiously built , wherein standeth a little Chappell decayed and without vse , in which lyeth buryed Sir Richard Thimblebye , an English Knight , who for the delight he tooke in that game , remoued his abode from a farre better soyle . Here also standeth a most strong and beautifull Castle , mounted vpon a hill , and with a double Bulwarke walled about , commanding the Sea , and passage of entrance of such as seeke to inuade the Goast : And surely a great pitie it is to see so faire a worke fall to decay : the Constable whereof by Patent is euer the Major of this Towne ; neere vnto which are two great Inlets of Seas , which at low water may be passed vpon the Sands with Guides . Vpon whose shore , as vpon the Sea-coasts in this Countie , abundance of Herrings are caught , for which cause they are much frequented in the season of the yeare , by many people from diuers Countries .

DENBIGH-SHIRE . CHAPTER XI .

DENBIGH-SHIRE , called in Welsh , Sire Denbigh , retyring more from the Sea within the Countrey , on this side of the Riuer Conwey shooteth Eastward in one place as farre as to the Riuer Dee : on the North , first the Sea ( for a small space ) and then Plint-shire encompasseth it : on the West , Caernaruon and Merioneth-shire ; on the East , Cheshire and Shrop-shire ; and on the South , Mountgomery-shire ▪

(2) The forme thereof is long , growing wider still towards the North-west , and narrower towards the East It is in length from East to West , one and thirtie miles , and in bredth from North to South , seauenteene miles : in the whole circuit and circumference , one hundred and fourteene miles .

(3) The ayre is very wholesome and pleasant , yet bleake enough , as exposed to the windes on all sides , and the high hilles , wherewith it is in many places enuitoned , long retaining the congealed snow . The tops whereof , in the Summer time , are the haruest-mens Almanacks , by the rising of certaine vapours thereon in the mornings , and foreshew a faire day ensuing .

(4) The soyle is but barren towards the West part : yet the middle , where it lieth flat in a valley , is most fertile . The East side , when it is once past the valley , findeth Nature to be a very sparing niggard of her sauours : but next vnto Dee it feeleth a more liberall extent of her blessings . The West part is but here and there inhabited , and mounteth vp more then the other with bare and hungry hilles : yet the leanesse of the soyle ( where the hils settle any thing flatting ) hath beene now a good while begun to be ouercome by the diligent paines and carefull industry of the husbandmen ; for they paring away the vpper coat of the earth into certaine Turffes , with a broad kinde of spade , pile them vp artificially on heapes , and fire them , so as being turned into ashes , and throwne vpon the ground so pared , they fructifie the hungry barrennesse and sterilitie of soyle , and make the fields bring forth a kinde of Rie or Anull-corne , in such plentie , as is hardly to be beleeued .

(5) The ancient Inhabitants of this Countrey were the Ordouices , who being also named Orde●ices , or Ordo●icae : a puissant and couragious people , by reason they kept wholly in a mountainous place , and tooke heart euen of the soyle it selfe : for they continued longest free from the yoke both of Roman , and also of English dominion . They were not subdued by the Romans , before the dayes of the Emperor Domitian ( for then Iulius Agricola conquered almost the whole Nation ) nor brought vnder the command of the English , before the raigne of King Edward the first ; but liued a long time in a lawlesse kinde of libertie , as bearing themselues bold vpon their owne magnanimitie , and the strength of the Country .

(6) The Mountaines of this County yeeld sufficiency of Neat , Sheepe , and Goats . The Vallies in most places are very plenteous of Corne , especially Eastward on this side , betwixt the Riuers of Alen and Dee ; but the more Westerly part is heathy , and altogether barren . The heart of the Shire shewes it selfe beneath the hilles , in a beautifull and pleasant Vale , reaching seauenteene miles in length from South to North , and fiue miles , or thereabouts , in bredth , and lieth open onely toward the Sea . It is enuironed on euery side with high hilles , amongst which , the highest is Mo●llenlly , on the top whereof is a warlike Fense with Trench and Rampier , and a little fountaine of cleare water . From these hilles , the Riuer Cluyd resorts vnto this Vale , and from the very spring-head ( increased with beckes and brookes ) doth part it in twaine , running thorow the midst of it ; whereof in ancient time it was named Strat Cluyd : for Mariam●s maketh mention of a King of the Strat Cluyd of the Welsh : And at this day it is commonly called Diffryn Cluyd , that is , The Vale of Cluyd .

This thing is worthy obseruation , as a matter memorable , both for admiration and antiquitie , that in the Parish of Llan-sanan within this Country , there is a place compasse cut out of the maine rocke by mans hand , in the side of a stony hill , wherein there be foure and twentie seats to sit in , some lesse , some bigger , where children and young men , comming to seeke their Cattell , vse to sit , and to haue their sports . And at this day they commonly call it Arthurs round Table .

(7) Henry Lacy Earle of Lincolne , obtaining Denbigh by the grant of King Edward the first , after the conuiction and beheading of Dauid brother of Llewellin for high Treason , was the first that fortified it with a wall about , not large in circuit , but very strong , and on the South-side with a faire Castle , strengthned with many high Towers . But he gaue it ouer , and left the worke vnfinished , conceiuing griefe ( as a sorrowfull father ) that his onely sonne came to vntimely death , and was drowned in the Well thereof : The fame of this Towne spreads it selfe farre for repute , as being reckoned the most beautifull place in all North-Wales : and it is of no lesse report , for the Castle adiunct vnto it is impregnable for fortification . And this strange accident happning there in the yeare 1575 ▪ deserues not to be omitted , being left as a continuall remembrance of Gods mercifull prouidence and preseruation at that time : that whereby reason of great Earth-quakes , many people were put into great feare , and had much harme done vnto them both within and without their ho●ses , in the Cities of Yorke , Worcester , Glocester , Bristow , Hertford , and in other Countries adiacent , yet in the Shire-hall of Denbigh the bell was caused to toll twice , by the shaking of the earth , and no hurt or hindrance at all either done or receiued . The gouernment of this Towne is managed by two Aldermen , and two Bailiffes , who are yearely elected out of twentie fiue burgestes , that are their assistants . It hath one Recorder , one Towne-Clerke , and two Sergeants at Mace : and by obseruation of the Mathematickes , the Pole is eleuated in the degree of Latitude 53. and 49. scruples , and from the first point in Longitude 16. and 45.

(8) This County , with them of Flint and Car●ar●on-shires , are not diuided by prickes into their seuerall Hundreds , according to the rest of this worke , the want of their particulars in the Parlament Rowles so causing it , which for the good of these three Shires , I earnestly sought to haue supplied from the Nomina Villarum , in their Sheriffes bookes , and had promise of them that might easily haue procured the same . But whether a fearelesse jealousie possessed their spirits , left the riches of these Shires , by reuealing such particulars , should be further sought into , I cannot say : yet this I haue obserued in all my Suruey , that where least is to be had , the greatest feares are possessed . Take these Shires therefore to be done as I could , and not as I would , that wish both the wealth of them all , and their esteeme to be of better regard by those that may doe them good .

(9) This Shire then is diuided into twelue Hundreds , for the readier ordering of businesses necessary to the State of the Country ; wherein are placed three Market-Townes , fit for buying and selling , and other negotiations . It hath fiue Castles to defend her selfe , and to offend her enemies , and fiftie seauen Parishes for Gods diuine seruice and worship .

FLINT-SHIRE . CHAPTER XII .

FLINT-SHIRE , stretching out in length , broad at one end , and narrow at another , is not much vnlike in fashion to a wedge , a peece of which is cut off by the meeting of Cheshire and Denbigh-shire , South-East in distance some foure miles . It borders East-ward with part of Cheshire , from whence it is guarded in length with the Riuer Dee vnto the North , which parteth Worrall and Flint-shire , till you come to a little Iland called Hel●bree . Northward it is bounded with the Virgiuian Sea : on the West , a little Riuer , called Cluyd , parteth her and Denbigh-shire asunder : and on the South altogether by Shrop-shire ▪

(2) This Country is nothing mountainous , as other parts of Wales are , but rising gently all along the Riuer of Dee , makes a faire shew and prospect of her selfe to euery eye that beholds her , as well vpon the Riuer , being in most places thereabouts foure or fiue miles broad , as vpon the other side thereof , being a part of Cheshire .

(3) The Aire is healthfull and temperate , without any foggie clouds or fennie vapours , sauing that sometimes there ariseth from the Sea , and the Riuer Dee , certaine thicke and smoky-seeming mists , which neuerthelesse are not found hurtfull to the Inhabitants , who in this part liue long and healthfully .

(4) The Clime is somewhat colder there then in Cheshire , by reason of the Sea , and the Riuer that engirts the better part of her ; by which , the Northerne windes being long carried vpon the waters , blow the more cold ; and that side of the Country vpward , that lieth shoaring vnto the top , hauing neither shelter nor defence , receiueth them in their full power , and is naturally a Bulwarke from their violence vnto her bordering neighbours , that maketh the snow to lie much longer there then on the other side of the Riuer .

(5) The Soile bringeth forth plentie both of Corne and Grasse , as also great store of Cattle , but they be little . To supply which defect , they haue more by much in their numbers then in other places where they be bigger . Great store of Fish they take in the Riuer of Dee , but little from the Sea , by reason they haue no Hauens or Creekes for boats . No great store of woods either there or in any other part of Wales are found , it hauing beene a generall plague vnto all the Country euer since the head-strong rebellions of their Princes and great men against the Kings of England , that ( in time ) tooke away the principall helpes of their Innouations , by cutting downe their woods , whereof in this Shire there hath heretofore beene great plentie . Fruits are scarce , but milke , butter , and cheese plentie , as also store of hony , of the which they make a pleasant wine , in colour like ( in taste not much vnlike ) vnto Muskadine , which they call Mathegli● . Yea , and in the dayes of Giraldus Cambrensis , neere the place now called Holy-well , was a rich Mine of Siluer , in seeking after which , men pierced and pried into the very bowels of the earth .

(6) The ancient Inhabitants of this Country were the Ordouices , a sturdie people against the Romans , but now most kinde and gentle towards the English , and indeede make much of all strangers , except they be crossed , and then they are the contrary .

(7) Places of defence are the Castles of Flint , Hawarden , vulgarly Harden , Treer , Rudland , Mold , Yowley , and Hope : of which , Flint and Harden are the two principall . The Castle of Flint , famous for the benefit it receiued from two Kings , and for the refuge and reliefe it gaue vnto the third . It was founded by Henry the second , finished by Edward the first , and long after gaue harbour and entertainment to that noble , but vnfortunate Prince , Richard the second , comming out of Ireland , being within her walles a free and absolute King , but no sooner without , but taken prisoner by Henry Bullingbrooke , Duke of Lancaster , losing at that time his libertie , and not long after his life . This standeth in the graduation of Latitude 53. 55. minutes , in Longitude 17.

For the Castle of Hawarden , no record remaines of the first founder , but that it was held a long time by the Stewards of the Earles of Chester . Howbeit , their resistances did not so generally consist in the strength of their Castles and Fortifications , as in their Mountaines and Hils , which in times of danger serued as naturall Bulwarkes and Defences vnto them against the force of enemies . As was that which standeth in a certaine strait set about with woods , neere vnto the Riuer , Alen , called Coles-hull , that is , Coles-hill , where the English , by reason of their disordered multitude , not ranged close in good array , lost the field , and were defeated , when King Henry the second had made as great preparation as might be to giue battle vnto the Welsh , and the very Kings Standard was forsaken by Henry of Essex , who was Standard-bearer to the Kings of England in right of inheritance .

(8) This Country hath many shallow riuers in it , but none of fame and note , but Dee and Cluyde . Howbeit , there is a Spring not farre from Rudland Castle , of great report and antiquitie , which is termed Fons Sacer , in English , Holy-Well , and is also commonly called S. Winefrids Well ; of whom antiquitie thus reporteth : That Winefrid a Christian Virgin , very faire and vertuous , was doated vpon by a young lustfull Prince or Lord of the Country , who not long able to rule his head-strong affections , hauing many times in vaine attempted and tryed her chastitie both by rich gifts and large promises , could not by any meanes obtaine his desires ; he therefore ( in a place of aduantage ) suddenly surprized and rauished her weake ( yet resisting ) body . After the deed done , the cruell Tyrant , to stop her cries and acclamations , slew her , and cut off her head : out of which place did suddenly arise a Spring that continueth to this day , carrying from the Fountaine such a forcible streame and current , as the like is not found in Christendome . Ouer the head of the Spring there is built a Chappell of free stone , with Pillars curiously wrought and engraued , in the Chancell whereof , and glasse window , the picture of the Virgin is drawne , together with the memoriall of her life and death . To this Fountaine Pilgrims are accustomed to repaire in their zealous , but blind deuotion ; and diuers others resort to bathe in , holding firmely that the water is of much vertue .

There be many red stones in the bottome of this Well , and much greene mosse growing vpon the sides : the superstition of the people holding that those red spots in the stones were drops of the Ladies bloud , which all the water in the Spring can neuer wash away ; and that the mosse about the wall was her haire , which though some of it be giuen to euery stranger that comes , yet it neuer wasteth . But howsoeuer this be carried for truth by the tradition of time , the mosse it selfe smels exceeding sweet .

There is also hard by Kilken ( a small village ) within this Countie , a little Well of no great note , that at certaine times riseth and falleth , after the manner of Sea-tydes .

(9) In the South part of this Country , diuided from the rest , is a place ( in some written Coppies of Antonine , called Bouium ) which we now terme Banchor , first a Citie , and afterwards a Monastery of famous memory , and the first that is read of in the world : wherein ( as Beda saith ) were a great number of Monkes , and them diuided into seauen Companies , euery one hauing his seuerall Ruler assigned . None of these Companies had lesse then three hundred persons deuoted to prayer , and to get liuing by their owne labour , for themselues and the poore : although it hath long since beene vtterly ruinate , so as now there is scarce seene the face and outward shew of a dead Citie or Monastery . It hath onely the names of two Gates remaining , one standing a mile distant from another , and betwixt which the Riuer Dee now runneth , where are often times found many pieces of Romane Coyne , and other tokens of antiquitie . But of these shall be more mention made in the following History .

Another like Monastry , but of lesser account , stood in the Vale beneath Varis ( a little Citie placed the Romans in the confines of this Shire and Deabigh-shire ) and vpon the Ranke of Elwy and Cluyd : This the Britaines call 〈◊〉 , of the Riuer , the Englishmen , Asuph , of the Founder ; and the Historiographers , Asphensis . It is more famouse for antiquitie , then for building o● brauery : for about the yeare 560 Kentigein Bishop of Glas● , being fled 〈◊〉 out of Scotland , placed here a Bishops See , and erected a Monastry , gathering together 66● . in a religious brotherhood , whereof 300. that were vnlearned , gaue themselues to husbandrie , and to worke within the Monastery ; the rest to prayer and meditations . When he returned into Scotland , he ordained Asaph , a godly and vpright man , to be gouernous ouer this Monastery , of whom it tooke the name , and is called Saint Asaphs .

Another Monastry of great account was at Basingwarke in this County , neere vnto which began that admirable Ditch drawne thence vnto the mouth of 〈◊〉 by King Offa , the Tract whereof I haue expressed thorow this Shire , and will further speake thereof in the following History .

ANGLESEY . CHAPTER XIII .

ANGLESEY was in the time of the Romans called Mona , by the Britaines Mon , and Tir-Mon , ( that is ) the Land of Mon , of the ancient English-Saxons Moneg : And at last , after the Englishmen had by their sharpe and seuerall assaults brought it vnder their rules , and became Lords thereof , it was termed Anglesey , as one would say , The Englishmens Iland .

(2) For , an Iland it is , albeit it be seuered from the Continent of Britaine , but with a small and narrow streight of the riuer Menai , and on all other parts beaten vpon with the surging and troublous Irish Sea , in which it lyeth somewhat square-wise , not much different in length and breadth ; being , where it reacheth out in length , from Beau-marish Eastward , to the vtmost Promontory West-ward , which we call Holy-head , twentie miles ; and in breadth from Llanbaderik North-ward , to the point of Menai South-ward , seauenteene miles ; the whole circuit or circumference amounting towards seauentie miles .

(3) The aire is reasonable gratefull and healthfull , and not generally subiect to diseases , excepting certaine Agues at some times , which are occasioned by the sogs and misty exhalations , which arise from the Sea called Mare Virginium , with the which this Ile is encompassed .

(4) The Commodities that commend ( or rather beautifie ) this Country , are in Corne and Cattle , wherewith it not onely enricheth it selfe exceedingly , but sendeth out great prouision thereof to others to supply their defects , and although the ground may seeme dry and stony , or vnpleasant and nothing sightly , wherein for the outward qualitie it resembleth some other parts of Wales , that are not so fruitfull , yet for the inward bounties of nature , it is farre vnlike : for aboue all the Coasts of Wales it is most plentifull of Wheat , insomuch as by Giraldus Cambrensis report , they are wont to say in Welsh , by way of a Prouerbe , Mon Mam Combry , which is to say , Mon is the mother of Wales ; for that when other Countries haruest failes round about , or their prouision is exhaust and drawne dry , this alone , like a prouident and full-brested mother , is able to sustaine the rest Whereunto Nature most prouidently hath added another benefit seruiceable and necessary to the former , in that the Country produceth also those kinde of stones which are called Mol●res , is of all other fittest to make Mill-stones or Grind-stones . In some places also it yeeldeth an earth of Alumino●● qualitie , out of which some not long since began to make Alom and Coperose , who ( like vnflesht Souldiers ) gaue ouer their enterprise without further hope , because at first they saw it not answere their ouer-hastie expectations .

(5) The ancient Inhabitants of this Country were the Ord●●ices , mentioned before in the precedent Prouinces of Denbigh-shire , Flint-shire , and Carnaruon-shire . And this very Iland was that ancient , and so much enobled seate of the British Druyds , who so amated the Army of Romane inuaders , as Tacitus reports , and as else-where we haue related in the sixt Booke and seauenth Chapter of our ensuing History .

(6) This Nation was attempted first by Pa●linus Suetonius in the raigne of Nero , but brought vnder the Romane Empire by Iulius Agricola . When the Empire of the Romanes in Britaine began to decline and goe downeward , some out of Ireland entred into this Isle by stealth , and nestled themselues there , as may be gathered by certaine mounts of earth entrenched about , and yet to be seene , which they call the I●●sh mens Cottages : as also by a place named of the Irish-men , yn Hieriey Gwidid , who did there ( as is recorded ) put the Britaines to flight , vnder the leading of Sinigus . The Norwegians also were often infestuous to this Iland ; but King Ethelreds Fleet , hauing in the yeare 1000. scowred the Seas round about this Isle , far exceeded all both Irish and Norwegian depopulations , for they wasted the Country in all hostile manner .

(7) After this , two Hughs , both Normans , did greatly afflict this Iland : The one being Earle of Chester , the other of Shrewsbury ; at which very time Magnus the Norwegian arriuing there , shot Hugh Earle of Shrewsbury through with an Arrow , and departed after he had ransacked the Iland . It was afterwards grieuously infested by the Englishmen , who neuer gaue ouer from time to time to inuade it , vntill in the raigne of King Edward the first , it was wholly brought vnder his subiection .

(8) The principall Towne in this Isle is Beaumarish , which the said King Edward the first built in the East side thereof , and for the faire situation , though in a Morish place , gaue it the name which it now beareth , whereas in times past it was called Bonouer ; which he also fortified with a goodly Castle .

(9) The Maior is the chiefest Magistrate of the Towno , who is yearely chosen , and hath the assistance and helpe of two Bailiffes , two Sergeants at Mace , and one Towne-Clerke : by whose carefull diligence the affaires of this Towne are orderly managed and commanded : whose Latitude is 54. and Longitude 15. 45. minutes .

( 10 ) Not far from hence is Lhaanuais , in times past a faire religious house of the Friars Minors , which although it be now in a manner raced out of memory , yet antiquitie maketh mention that it hath beene of great regard among the Kings of England , who haue shewed themselues very bountifull Patrons vnto that Couent , both in respect of the sanctimonious life of such as conuersed there , as also because there the bodies of very eminent persons , as the daughter of King Iohn , the sonne of a King of the Danes , as likewise of many great Lords , Knights , and Squires , were enterred , that were slaine in the warres against the Welsh , in the time of many illustrious Kings of England .

( 11 ) This Isle is reckoned to haue had anciently many Villages in it , euen to the number of three hundred threescore and three ; and the same euen at this day is very well peopled .

The diuision of this I le for disposition of affaires that belong either to the state of the Cro●●● , or to the condition of the Country , is into six Hundreds : in which are seated two Market-Townes , and seuentie foure Parish-Churches for Gods diuine honour and worship .

CAERNARVON-SHIRE . CHAPTER XIIII .

CAERNARVON-SHIRE , in Welsh , Sire Caer-ar-von , so called because it is iust ouer against Anglesey , ( which the Britaines call Mon , ) and in composition was termed also Snowden-Forrest , before Wales was laid into Shires ; the North-side whereof and the West butteth vpon the Irish Sea , the South-side is inclosed with Merioneth , and the East with Denbigh-shires , from which it is seuered by the Riuer Conwey .

(2) The forme thereof is much like a wedge , long and narrow toward the South , and growing still wider towards the North : so that from Penenkel-point South-ward , to Orms-head-point Northward , are fortie miles , from the Riuer Conwey Eastward , to the Riuer Llenoy Westward , miles twentie : and the whole circumference one hundred and ten miles .

(3) The Aire is sharpe and piercing , by reason that the Country hath not naturall prouision to ensconce her selfe against the extremitie of winds and weather : but especially as may be thought , through the continuance of the Snow on the hils , which also exclude the Suns aspect and warmth .

(4) The soile cannot be much commended for the fertilitie , except those parts of the Sea-coasts , which lye on the West towards Ireland : but for the heart of this Shire , it is altogether mountainous , as if Nature had a purpose here , by rearing vp these craggy hils so thicke together , strongly to compact the ioynts of this our Iland , and to frame the Inland part thereof for a fit place of refuge to the Britaines , against those times of aduersitie which afterward did fall vpon them ; for no Army though neuer so strongly , or scarce any Trauellers , though neuer so lightly appointed , can finde passage among those so many rough and hard Rockes , so many Vales and Pooles here and there , crossing all the wayes , as ready obstacles to repell any Inroades of forraine a●●ailants . These Mountaines may not vnfitly be termed the British Alpes , as being the most vaste of all Britaine , and for their steepnesse and cragginesse not vnlike to those of Italy , all of them towring vp into the Aire , and round encompassing one farre higher then all the rest , peculiarly called Snowdon-Hill , though the other likewise in the same sense , are by the Welsh termed Cralg Er●ry , as much as Snowy Mountaines , taking their name as doth ( by Plinies testimony ) Niphates in Armenia , and Imaus in Schithia : For all the yeare long these lye mantelled ouer with Snow hard crusted together , though otherwise for their height they are open and liable both to the Sunne to dissolue them , and the windes to ouer-sweepe them .

(5) The ancient Inhabitants of this Country were the Ordouices , of whom we haue sufficiently spoken in the description of the former Prouinces ; neither need I insist either vpon the pleasures or profits that this Country yeeldeth , by reason of the great affinity it hath both of Climate and Commodities with Denbigh-shire and Flint-shire before mentioned But this beyond the other in some places breeds certaine Shel-fishes , which being conceiued by an heauenly dew bring forth Pearles , in ancient times 〈…〉 of then now they are .

(6) Touching places of note , that Citie is very ancient which the Emperour Antonine calleth Segontium , taking name of a Riuer running by , which at this day is called Seront : some reliques of the walls whereof doe yet appeare , neere vnto a little Church consecrated to the honour of Saint Publicius . This Citie Ninius calleth Caer Custenith , which some interpret the Citie of Constantine . Indeed Mathew Westminster saith ( how true I know not ) that Anno 1283. here was found the body of Constantius ( Father to great Constantine ) which King Edward the first caused to be sumptuously bestowed in the Church of the new Citie , which he raised out of the ruines of the old , and is now called Ca●●naruon , which giueth name to this whole Shire . The Towne it selfe yeeldeth a most excellent prospect towards the Sea , and is incompassed ( in a manner ) round with the wals of the Castle : so as we may say , it is a Citie within a Castle , which taketh vp the whole West-side of it : and great pitie it is , that so famous a worke should not be perpetuous , or euer become the ruine of time , which is much feared , for the mercilesse vnderminings of the Sea , that with her daily and forcible irruptions neuer ceaseth to wash away the foundations of the Key . The people of this Towne are well approued for courte●ie , and also Ciuill gouernment , which is administred by the Constable of the Castle ( who is euer Maior by Patent ) hauing the assistance of one Alderman , two Bailiffes , two Sergeants at Mace , and one Towne-Clerke . The Townesmen doe not a little glory that King Edward the second was borne there , in a Tower of the Castle called Eagle-Tower , and surnamed of Caer-nar-uon , he being the first Prince of Wales of the English line . The site of this Towne according to Mathematicall obseruation is in the degree of Longitude 15. and 50. scruples from the first West-point , and the Pole eleuated in Latitude 53. and 50.

Bangor the Bishops See , though it be now but a small Towne , yet it was in time past so large , that for the greatnesse thereof it was called Banchor Vaur , that is , Great Banchor ; which Hugh Earle of Chester fortified with a Castle : But it hath beene long since vtterly ruinated and laid leuell with the ground , in so much as there is not any footing to be found , or other monuments left thereof , although they haue beene sought with all diligent enquiry . This Bishops See hath within the Dioces ninetie six Parishes . But the ancient Church which was consecrated vnto Daniel , sometime Bishop thereof , was defaced and set on fire by that notorious Rebell Owen Glendowerdwy , who had a purpose also to destroy all the Cities of Wales , for that they stood for the King of England . And though the same Church was since repaired about the time of King Henry the seauenth , yet hath it scarce recouered the resemblance of her former dignitie .

The Riuer Conwey ( which limitteth this Shire on the East-side ) is in Ptolemy by corruption or ignorance of Transcribers called Toisonius , in stead of Cononius , whence Canonium ( a Towne mentioned by Antonine ) tooke name : and albeit both it and its name be now vtterly extinct , yet is there a couert remembrance thereof in the new name of a poore Village , standing among the rubbish thereof , called Caer-hean , ( that is ) The ancient Citie : Out of the spoyle whereof King Edward the first , built a new Towne at the Riuers mouth , termed thereupon Aber-Conwey : ( that is ) the mouth of Conwey , which being formerly fortified by Hugh of Chester , and strongly situate and fenced both with wals & a faire Castle by the Riuers side , deserues rather the name of a Citie then a Towne , if it were more populous and traffiqued with Inhabitants Neither must I here forget Newin , though but a small Market-Towne , for that it pleased the English Nobles Anno 1284 to honour it and the memory of King Arthur , with triumphant celebritie , after they had subdued the rebellious Ring-leaders of Wales .

(7) Other matters of memorable note this Country affordeth not much , vnlesse perhaps this ; That iust ouer against the Riuer Conwey , where it iflueth into the Sea , there sometimes stood an ancient Citie named Diganwey , which many yeares agoe was consumed by lightning , and so made vtterly desolate , as many other monuments haue beene , of ancient and worthy memory . As likewise that in the Poole Lin-Peris , there is a kinde of Fish called there Torco●h , hauing a red belly , no where else seene . For touching these two other miracles famoused by Giraldus and Geruasius , that on those his high hils there are two Pooles called the Meares , the one of which produceth great store of fish , but all hauing onely one eye , and in the other there is a moueable Iland , which as soone as a man treadeth on , it forthwith floateth a great way off , whereby the Welsh are said to haue often scaped and deluded their enemies assailing them : these matters are out of my Creed , and yet I thinke the Reader had rather beleeue them , then to goe to see whether it be so or no.

SCOTLANDS GENERALL DESCRIPTION . CHAPTER I.

SCOTLAND , the second Kingdome of Great Britaine , and the North part of the Iland , hath on the East the Germane Ocean , on the North , the Orkneys , and Deucalidon Sea , the West affronted with Ireland , and the South hath the Riuer Tweed , the Cheuiot Hils , and the adiacent Tract , reaching to the Sulway Sands , whereby it is separated from England .

(2) This Kingdome is faire and spacious , and from these South-borders spreadeth it selfe wide into the East and West , till againe it contracts it selfe narrower vnto the Northerne Promontories : furnished with all things befitting a famous Kingdome ; both for Ayre and Soyle , Riuers , Woods , Mountaines , Fish , Fowle , and Cattle , and Corne so plenteous , that it supplyeth therewith other Countryes in their want . The people thereof are of good feature , strong of body , and of couragious minde , and in warres so venturous , that scarce any seruice of note hath beene performed , but that they were with the first and last in the field . Their Nobilitie and Gentry are very studious of learning , and all ciuill knowledge ; for which end they not onely frequent the three Vniuersities of their owne Kingdome ( S. Andrewes , Glasco , and Edenbrough , the Nurseries of Pietie , and Mansions of the sacred Muses ) but also much addict themselues to trauell into forraine Countries .

(4) Yet , in the meane while , lest I should seeme too difectiue in my intendments , let me without offence ( in this third , though short Booke ) giue onely a generall view of that Kingdome , vpon obseruations from others ; which to accomplish by mine owne suruey ( if others should hap to faile , and my crazy-aged-body will giue leaue ) is my chiefe desire ; knowing the Iland furnished with many worthy remembrances , appertaining both vnto them and vs , whom God now hath set vnder one Crowne : and the rather , for that their more Southerne people are from the same Originall with vs the English , being both alike the Saxon branches : as also , that the Picts anciently inhabiting part of that Kingdome , were the inborne Britaines , and such as thither fled to auoid the Romane seruitude : whose names began first to be distinguished vnder Dioclesian the Emperour , when they were termed Picts for painting their bodies , like the Britaines , as such Flauius Vigetius : which is more strengthened , for that the Northerne Britaines conuerted by Saint Columb , are called Britaine Picts .

(6) Their manner were alike , saith Diodorus , Siculus , and Strabo , and their garments not much different , as by Sidonius Apollinaris may be gathered , where he seemeth rather to describe the moderne Wild-Irish , then the antike Gete . Notwithstanding this Nations Originall by some hath beene deriued from Scota , the supposed Daughter of the Egyptian King Pharoah , that nourished Moses , afterwards married vnto Gaithelus , the son of Cecrops , ( Founder of Athens ) who first seating in Spaine , passed thence into Ireland , and lastly into Scotland , where his Wife Scota gaue Name to the Nation ; if we beleeue that they hit the marke , who shoot at the Moone .

(7) But that the Scythians came into Spaine , ( besides the Promontory bearing their Name Scythi●um ) Silius Italicus , a Spanyard borne , doth shew , who bringeth the Concani , a Nation therein seated , from the Massagetae , which were the Scythians ; and the Sarmatae , whom all confesse to haue bin Scythians , were the builders ( as he saith ) of the Citie Susanna in Spaine ▪ And how from Spaine they possessed themselues of Ireland , ( at the time when the Kingdome of Iulah flourished , ) Ninius the Disciple of Eluodugus doth tell , and their owne Histories of Nemethus and Delas , besides Cisnerus and others , doe shew ; who were first knowne by the name of Scots , as is gathered out of Prophyry ( alledged by S. Ierome ) in the raigne of Aurelianus the Emperour . Gildas calleth them the Irish-Spoilers : Giraldus , A Scotish Nation , descended from Ireland : which in regard of them by Eginbardus is termed The I le of Scots : by Beda , The I le inhabited by the Scots ; and by other Historians , Scotland the great ; as their seate in Britaine was called Scotland the lesse .

(9) Scotlands South part in Galloway , washed with the warer of Solway Bay , toucheth degree 56. of Latitude , and thence inbosoming many Loughes and In-lets vpon the East and West , extendeth it selfe vnto the degree 60 and 30 minutes ; whose Longitude is likewise laid betwixt the degree 13 and 19 and the same growne very narrow , being so neere the North-Pole , as lying directly vnder the hindermost Starres of the Greater Beare .

( 11 ) And these againe are subdiuided into Sherifdomes , Stewardships , and ●●●wickes , for the most part inheritory vnto honourable Families . The Ecclesiasticall Gouernment is also subiect vnder two Metropolitan Arch-bishops , which are of S. Andrewes , ( the Primate of Scotland , ) and of Glasco ; whose Iurisdictions are as followeth .

S. Andrewes . Dunkeld . Aberdon . Murray . Dunblan . Brechin . Rosse . Cathanes . Orkeney . Glasco . Galloway . Argile . Iles.

Amongst the things worthy of note of Antiquitie in this Kingdome , most memorable was that Fortification drawne from Abercorne vpon the Frith of Edenborough , vnto Aleluya , how Dunbritton , opening vpon the West Sea , where Iulius Agricola set the limit of the Romane Empire ; past which , saith Tacitus , there was no other bounds of Britaine to be sought for : and that here the second Legion Augusta , and the 20. Legion Victrix , built a part of the Wall , certaine Inscriptions there digged vp , and reserued at Dunloyr and Cader , doe witnesse : as also an ancient coped monument of an high and round compasse , which , as some thinke , was a Temple consecrated vnto the God Ter●●● : others , a Trophey raised by Carausius , who fortified this Wall with seauen Castles , as Ninius doth declare .

( 13 ) Ninian a Britaine is recorded to haue conuerted the South-Ficts vnto the Faith of Christ in the raigne of Theodosius the younger , and the Church in Galloway bearing his name doth witnes it : so likewise in the same age Palladius sent from Pope Coelestine , became an Apostle vnto the Scots , whose reliques lay enshrined at Fordo● in Mernis , as was verily supposed : but that Christianitie had beene formerly planted in this vttermost Prouince , is testified by Tertuilian , in saying the Britaines had embraced the faith farther then the Romans had power to follow or persecute them , whereupon Peter Monke of 〈◊〉 Spaine , concludeth their conuersion to be more ancient then the Southerne Britaines .

( 14 ) But touching things obseruable for the present , surely admirable is the report of the plenty of Cattle , Fish , and Fowle there abiding : their Neat but little , yet many in number : Fish so plentifull that men in some places ( for delight ) on horse-backe hunt Salmons with Speares : and a certaine Fowle , which some call Soland-Geese , spreading so thicke in the ayre , that they euen darken the Suns light ; of whose flesh , feathers and oyle , the Inhabitants in some parts make great vse and gaine ; yea , and euen of fishes brought by them , abundant prouision for diet , as also of the stickes ( brought to make their nests ) plentifull prouision for fuell .

( 16 ) No lesse strange then any the fore-mentioned waters , but more lamentable is the remembrance of the great in●ndation , happing by the sodaine rising of Tay. which bare away the Walles and Towne of Berth , and with it the Cradle and yong sonne of King William into the Sea , wherein the Royall Insant with many others perished , the King and his Courtiers hardly escaping the danger with life . The ruine of this Towne raised another more famous , and more commodiously seated , euen Perth , since called Saint Iohns-Towne .

( 17 ) Ilands and Ilets yeelding both beautie and subiection to this Scotish Kingdome , are the Westerne , the Orknayes , and the Shetlands , reckoned to be aboue three hundred in number ; the Inhabitants for the most part vsing the frugalitie of the ancient Scot.

( 18 ) The Westerne lying scattered in the Deucalidoman Sea , were anciently ruled by a King of their owne , whose maintenance was out of their common Coffers , and the Regall Authoritie neuer continued in line all succession , for ( to preuent that ) their Kings were not permitted to haue wiues of their owne , but might by their Lawes accompany with other mens : as the like Law was in the other parts of Scotland , that the Virginitie of all new wiues , should be the Landlords prey , till King Malcolme enacted , that halfe a marke should be paid for redemption . The residence of those fore-mentioned Kings , was chiefly in Ila , Bunals , and Iona , now Columbkill , where ( as Donald Munr● , who trauelled through these Ilands reporteth ) are three Tombes , hauing the seuerall Inscriptions of the Kings of Scotland , of Ireland , and of Norway .

( 19 ) Among these Westerne Ilands , the Hebrides , Skie , Mula , Ila , and Arran , are the greatest : All of them plentifull of Corne , Woods , Salmons and F●errings , as others of Conies Deere , Horses , and Sheepe , where in some they are wilde , and in others without any owners ; but the people vnciuill , and lacking Religion , they rather liue rudely in state of necessitie , then as Lords of these portions which God hath allotted them ; and with a sufferable ease , ignorant of ambition , enioy those contentments , which some others ( though they no great summe ) doe more laboriously attaine vnto by the precepts of Philosopie : for , feeding themselues with competencie without any excesse , they returne all the ouer-plus vnto their Lords , as doe the Inhabitants of Hirta and Rona ; but alas , Religion not knowne among them , these penurious vertues are rather the curses of Cham , then the followings of Christ , who forbids vs to be too carefull for the morrow .

( 20 ) The Iles of Orkenay vpon the North of Scotland , lying in a most raging and tempestuous Sea , are about three and thirtie in number , whereof thirteene are inhabited , and the other replenished with Cattle : in these are no venomous Serpents , nor other vgly vermin ; the aire sharpe and healthfull , and the soile apt to beare onely Oats and Barley , but not a sticke of wood : among these , Pomonia is the greatest , accounted and called the Maine-land , affording sixe Minerals of Lead and Tinne , and in her chiefe Towne a Bishops See : wherein are seated twelue Parish-Churches , one of them very magnificent for so remote a Country .

( 21 ) Of all the Romanes , Iulius Agricola first discouered the Orkenays ; yea , and subdued them , if we will beleeue Tacitus : but Pomponius Mela , that wrote thirtie yeares before him , doth mention them , and Iuuenal in Hadrians time after him , tels vs the Romanes had won them ; and lastly , Claudian nameth Saxons that were slaine in them and so doth Ninius name Octha and Ebissus , Saxon Commanders , who in their rouing Pinnaces wasted the Orknays . These Ilands Donald Bane the vsurper of the Scotish Crowne , gaue to the King of Norway for his assistance , and by the Norwegians were they held the space of an hundred and sixtie yeares , vntill that Alexander the third King of Scotland , with sword and composition got them from Magnus the fourth , King of Norway , which afterward King Haquin confirmed vnto King Robert Bruce : but lastly , Christian the first , King of Norway and Denmarke , vtterly renounced all his right to those Ilands , when he gaue his daughter in marriage vnto King Iames the third , which deed was further ratified by the Pope , who openeth the way to the possession of Kingdomes with his owne key .

IRELAND DESCRIBED . CHAPTER I.

THe Traditions of time haue deliuered vnto vs diuers names , whereby this famous Iland is recorded to haue beene called : yet none of more faire probabilitie , then that of Orpheus , Aristotle and Claudian , by whom it is named Ierna : by Iuuenal and Mela called Iuuerna : by Diodorus Siculus , Iris : by Martian of Heraclea , Ioyepnia : by Eustachius , Oyernia , and Bernia by the natiue Inhabitants , Eryn : by the Britaines , Yuerdon : the Welsh-Bards in their Ballads , Tiruolas Totidanan , and Banno : and by the English , Ireland . But from whence these diuersities were deriued , arise many opinions . Doubtlesse it is , that Hibernia , Iuuerna , and Ouernia , came from Ierna , spoken of by O●pheus and Aristotle ; and the same Ierna , as also Iris , Iuerdhon , and Ireland , from Erin , the terme that the Inhabitants now vse . From this Erin therefore ( a word proper to the Nation ) the originall is most likely to be deduced .

(2) Some deriue Hiber●●a from Hiberno tempore , that is , from the winter season ; some from Hiberus a Spaniard ; some from a Duke named Irnalph ; some againe from the ancient Riuer Iberus , and 〈◊〉 from Hiere , an Irish word , which signifieth the west , or a westerne coast , whence Erin may also seeme to fetch the deriuation : for it lieth furthest Westward of any Region in all Europe . As also for that the Riuer running in the most remote west-part of this Iland , is in Ptolemy called Iernus : like as the furthest Westerne Promontory in Spaine , from whence our Irish men came , is by Strabo called Ierne , and the Riuer next vnto it , by Mela , Ierna : yea , and Spaine it selfe , for the Westerne situation , is called Hesperia : the West-Cape of Africke , Hesperium ; and in Germany , Westrich and Westphale● from their position haue their names . Postelius ( a man that rather followed his owne fancy , then the iudgement of others ) fetcheth the originall of Ireland from the Hebrewes , as if Irin should be as much as Iurin , that is , the Iewes land : which opinion I hold no better then those that would haue it from the Winter-like stormes , although vpon euery winde the aire is cold there .

(3) Festus Auienus , in that little booke which he entituled Ora maritima calleth Ireland , Sacram Insulam , that is , the holy Iland : to which opinion the people are soone drawne , by reason of the many Saints that the Iland is said to produce , and the blessed soile that affords no venomous creatures to retaine life . It is thought that Plutarch meant Ireland by his Ogygia , for her great antiquitie ; and of latter times by ●sidore and Bede it was called Scots of those Scots that inhabited it : and that thence the name of Scotland , together with the Scots themselues , came into Britaine .

(4) For largenesse and circuit , in times past , this Iland challenged the third place in ranke of all the Iles of the then knowne world : for thus haue Geographers left vs , that the Indian Taproba● for greatnesse was the first , the I le of Britaine the next , and this of Ireland the third : and for that cause doth Ptolemy call it the little Britaine . But how soeuer Strabo hath extended the bredth , as broad as the length , and others haue formed it in shape like an egge , yet latter dimensions haue found it farre otherwise , twice longer then broad , and may be compared to the forelegge of a Beare , if the Si●ile breed no offence . Whose East-side hath on it that tempestuous Sea that cutteth her channell betwixt England and this Ireland : the West is washed with the Westerne Ocean ; the North with the 〈◊〉 Caledonian ; and the South with the Vergiuian Sea .

(5) The aire of this Iland is delectable and wholesome , though neither so cleere nor sub●●● of England , which ( as Mela saith ) is nothing fauourable for the ripening of Cor●e : but so gratefull to the ground , that it causeth grasse to grow abund●ntly , not onely fresh and long , but withall very sweet for all Cattle , and in Winter is more subiect to winde then snow : and that I may vse the words of Giraldus , It is of all Countries most temperate , neither forcing the Inhabitants to seeke shade from the frying heat of Cancer , nor the chilling cold of Capricorne to driue them to the fire : but at all seasons most milde , betwixt a sufferable cold , and gentle warme heat .

(6) The soile ( saith Cambrensis ) is vneuen , wooddy , wilde , waterish and boggy , so full of Loghs and Meeres , that great ponds of water are found vpon the high Mountaines . These indeed make the places somewhat dangerous vnto all new commers , by breeding of rheums dyssenteries and fluxes , whose vsuall remedie is Vskebah , a wholesome Aqua vita , that drieth more , and enflameth lesse , then many other hot confections .

(7) The Commodities of this Kingdome chiefly consist in Cattle , whose feed is so sweet and so ranke , that they will soone graze to a surfet , if they may be suffered to feed as they will . Their sheepe are many , but beare not the best wooll , which twice are shorne within one yeare . Of these they make Mantles , Caddowes , and Couerle●s , vented from thence into forraine Countries . Their Hobbies likewise are of great esteeme , and are answerable to the ●ennets of Spaine . Bees are there in such abundance , that hony is found in holes of old trees , and in rests of the rockes . No annoyance of hurtfull Snake or venomous creatures ; and to speake all in a word , nothing wanting for profit or pleasure : for so much doth Giraldus affirme , in saying , that Nature had cast into this Westerne Kingdome of Zephyrus a more gracious eye then was ordinary .

(8) Touching the originall peopling of this faire Iland , if we will beleeue their records , they make antiquitie it selfe but young vnto themselues , affirming the damsell Caesarea , and niece vnto Noah , to haue found it out before the Floud ; and that three hundred yeares after ; when Ia●hets posteritie tooke into these West-parts of the world , one Barthela●●● of his progeny , a S●ythian by birth , encouraged by the late successe of N●●rod ( who now had intruded vpon the Monarchy of Syria ) wandred so farre West , that Fortune at last cast him and his people vpon the coast of Ireland . There he setled with his three sonnes , Languinna , Salarus , and Ruthurgus , who searching through euery creeke and corner of the Land , left their owne names by three notable places , Langui●● , Stragrus , and Mount Salanga , which the reuolution of times hath since called by other names , as S. Dominickhill , Ruthurgi , and Stag●●● . Vnder the gouernment of these three sonnes , and their off-spring , this land was kept about three hundred yeares ; at which time there arriued also in Ireland a Giant-like kinde of people of Nimrods race , who in bodily shape exceeded the proportion of vsuallmen , vsing their strengths to winne 〈…〉 and to oppreste with rapine and violence . These growing to numbers , accounted it neces●ary to preuent dominion , lest the curse of slauery ( prophecied by Noah ) should light vpon them : to preuent the which , they set vp a King of their owne ; then quarrels bred daily , either parties purposing to hold their interest by their swords : against whom , lastly a battle was fought , and an infinite company of Giants slaine ▪ when also died most of those of the posteritie of Iapheth , leauing them of Cham Lords of Iland .

(9) Whereupon Nemethus a Scythian , with his foure sonnes , arriued in Ireland , and by strong hand seated themselues among these Grants ; where for two hundred and sixtie yeares they kept , but then no longer able to hold out against them , they left their standings , and departed the land .

( 10 ) Soone after , the fiue sonnes of Dela , descended from the said Nemethus , came into these coasts , and with manly prowes●e droue these miscreants out of Ireland , whereby the seed of Cham was vtterly expelled , & these of Iapheth diuided the land into fiue parts , whereof they became themselues Kings : but falling at variance , gaue aduantage vnto others , among whom the BRITAINES set in a foot .

( 11 ) But to make this Iland more famous , certaine Historians haue fetched their Kings from most vncertaine Records , as namely from Gaothel the Grecian , and Scotia ( the daughter of King Pharao , and nourisher of Moses ) his wife : who at that time , when Israel were in Egypt , with a Colony came into Spaine , and after into Ireland , where he was made King , and in honour of his Queene , the land named Scotia , from whom also the Inhabitants tooke name : his posteritie increasing in the parts of Spaine , where first they had seated , in proces●e of time sought further aduentures vnder the foure sonnes of Milesius King of Spaine , whose names were Hibernus , Hermion , Euer , and Erimon .

( 12 ) These , by the direction sufferance , and assistance of Gurguntius , King of the Britaines , after that Ireland had beene very much dispeopled by a contagious pestilence , seated themselues , and from the eldest , Hiberius , called the I●●and Hibernia , as some are of opinion : these diuided the whole into fiue Pro●●nces , famously knowne by the names of Mounster , Leinster , Connaught , Vlster , and M●ath in their midst : and from these the present Irish repute themselues to come . Yet surely , as I make no question , but that this Iland became inhabited euen of old time , when mankinde againe ouer-spred the face of the earth , so doubt I not , but that our Britaines pas●ed thereinto themselues , such infinite number of words in the Irish language yet in vse , such ancient names of Waters , Isles , Mountaines , and places , meerely British words , yet remaining , and the testimony of ●acitus , who saith , that their manners were fashioned to the Britaines , inforceth so much ; and Ptolemy before him , calleth that Iland by the name of little Britaine : all which shew a former interest for Ireland , then that which by conquest vnder Henry the second was made .

( 13 ) That it euer was subiect to the Romans , is doubtfull , though Agricola did wish it , and Tacitus held most necessary : yea , and in the diuision of their Empire , Ireland , with Britaine and Thule , fell vnto Constantine the sonne of Constantine the great ; yet their manners vnreclaimed , and barbarisme retained long after those dayes , doe witnesse no such 〈◊〉 sowne , to be in that plot . But when Romes great Empire began to grow lesse , the Scots or Scythians grew mightie in Ireland : and as Oros●●● writeth , that Island was wholly inhabited by the Scotish Nation in the dayes of Honorius , and Ar●●dius , the Emperours : whose warres and slaughter , Claudian doth lightly touch in this his Verse .

Scotorum cumulos fleuit glacialis Ierne . The frozen Ireland wept to see , her Scots all slaine on h●apes to be .

( 14 ) As these for the most part , by the testimony of Ninius , were the ancient Inhabitants , so by other ancient Writers , their customes and manners are thus set forth : Strabo saith , The Inhabitants of Ireland are more rude then the Britaines , they feed vpon the flesh of men , yea , and thinke it a point of worth to eat their dead parents : want only they accompany with women , making no difference of other mens wiues , their owne sisters , nor of their naturall mothers : but of these things ( saith he ) we haue no certaine witnesse of sufficient credit . Po●ponius Mela recordeth , that the Irish are vn●iuill , ignorant of vertues , and void of religion : And Solinus affirmeth , that after victory they drinke the bloud of the slaine , and besmeare their owne faces therewith ; so giuen to warre , that the mother at the birth of a man-childe , feedeth the first meat into her infants mouth , vpon the point of her husbands sword , and with he at●enish imprecations , wisheth that it may die no otherwise then in warre or by sword .

( 15 ) But from these ancient and barbarous manners , let vs come to the conditions of their middle time ; whom Giraldus Cambrensis describeth as followeth : The Irish ( saith he ) are a strong and bold people , martiall and prodigall in warre , nimble , stout , and haughtie of heart ; carelesse of life , but greedie of glory ; courteous to strangers , constant in loue , light of beliefe , impatient of iniurie , giuen to fleshly lusts , and in enmitie implacable . At the baptizing of their Infants , their manner was , not to dip their right armes into the water , that so ( as they thought ) they might giue a more deepe and incurable blow ; neuer calling them by the names of their Parents whilest they liued together , but at their death tooke it vpon them . Their women nursed not the children they bare ; and they that nursed others , did affect and loue them much more then their owne .

( 16 ) So much were they giuen to fantasticall conceits , that they held it very ominous to giue their neighbours fire vpon May-day : to eat an old egge , endangered the death of their horse : and before they cast in their seed , they send salt into the field : to hang vp the shelles in the roofe , was a preseruatiue of the chickens from the kite : to set vp greene boughes at their doores in the Moneth of May , increased their kines milke ; and to spit vpon Cattle , they held it good against Witchery , whereof Ireland was full .

( 17 ) Superstitious Idolatry among the wilde Irish was common , yeelding diuine honour vnto the Moone after the change , vnto whom they both bowed their knees , and made supplications ; and with a loud voice would thus speake vnto that Planet : Wee pray thee leaue vs in as good estate as thou foundst vs . Wolues they did make their Godsibs , terming them Chari Christ , and so thought themselues preserued from their hurts : the hoofes of dead horses they accounted and held sacred : about childrens necks they hung the beginning of Saint Iohns Gospell , a crooked naile of an horse-shooe , or a peece of a Wolues skinne ; and both the sucking-childe and nurse were girt with girdles finely plated of womans haire ; so farre they wandred into the wayes of errour , in making these armes the strength of their healths .

( 18 ) Their wiues were many , by reason of diuorcements , and their maids married at twelue yeares of age , whose customes were to send to their louers , bracelets plated , and curiously wrought of their owne haire ; so farre following Venus in the knots of these a●●urements . The men wore linnen shirts exceedingly large , stained with Saffron , the sleeues wide , and hanging to their knees , strait and short trustes plated thicke in the skirts , their breeches close to the thighes , a short skeine hanging point downe before , and a mantle most times cast ouer their heads . The women wore their haire plated in curious manner , hanging downe their backes and shoulders , from vnder soulden wreathes of fine linnen , rolled about their heads , rather loading the wearer , then delighting the beholder : for as the one was most seemely , so the other was vnsightly : their neckes were hung with chaines and carkaneths , their armes wreathed with many bracelets , and ouer their side-garments the shagge rugge mantles purfled with a deepe Fringe of diuers colours , both sexes accounting idlenes●e their onely libertie , and ease their greatest riches .

( 19 ) In warres they were forward , and fought with battle-axes , whose bearers were called Galloglasses , the common Souldier but lightly armed , who serued with darts and sharpe skeines ; their Trumpet was a Bagge-pipe , and word for encounter , Pharroh ; which at the first onset with great acclamation they vttered , and he that did not , was taken into the ayre , and carried into the vale of Kerr● , where transformed ( as they did beleeue ) he remained vntill he was hunted with Hounds from thence to his home .

( 20 ) For the dying and dead they hired women to mourne , who expostulated with the sicke , why he would die ; and dead , at his Funerall such out-cries were made , such clapping of hands , such howlings , and gestures , that one would thinke their sorrowes vnrecouerable , holding the opinion of Pythagoras for the soules departed .

( 21 ) Their dyet in necessitie was slender , feeding vpon water-cresses , rootes , mushromes , shamrogh , butter tempered with oat-meale , milke , whey , yea , and raw flesh , the bloud being crushed out : their vse was also to let their kine bloud , which standing a while , and comming to a ielly , with butter they did eat , as a very good dish .

( 22 ) That the Gospell of Christ should be preached in Ireland by Iames the Apostle , I will not affirme , though Vincentius hath said it : neither will I , with the Scots , bring the Ilands conuersion from a Christian woman , who ( as their Historians doe auouch ) first instructed the Queene , and the Queene her husband , and he againe his Subiects , till all became Christians . But most true it is , that the Scots first receiued the doctrine of Christ in this Kingdome of Ireland ; for thus writeth Prosper : Coelestin Pope of Rome sent his Archdeacon Palladius into Britaine to withstand the Pelagian heresie , who at one time did driue out these enemies of grace , and ordained a Bishop among the Scots , whereby that barbarous Nation embraced Christianitie . Yet Ninius reporteth , that Palladius did nothing in neither , being taken away by vntimely death : but that S. Patricke , borne at E●burne in Cluedsdale , the sonne of Calphurus , by the sister of S. Martin , was the first Apostle for Ireland , who sowed his heauenly seede with such plentifull increase , that the soile it selfe shortly was called Sanctorum Patria , the Country of Saints : for whose Sepulchre after his death rose as great variance , as was for Homer amongst them of Greece : they of Downe challenged his graue to be with them , vpon certaine Verses written on a Tombe , which ascribes Patricke , Briget , and Columbe to be buried therein : they of Armagh lay claime by the warrant of S. Bernard , who saith , that Patricke in his life time there ruled , and after death there rested . Glascenbury in England by ancient records will haue his bodie interred with them ; and Scotland auoucheth his birth to be at Glasco , and bones to rest at Kirk-Patricke with them : of such reuerent esteeme was this Irish Apostle .

THE PROVINCE OF MOVNSTER . CHAPTER II.

THis Prouince , called in Irish , Mown ; in a more ordinary construction of speech , Wown ; in Latine , Momonia ; and in English , Mounster ; lieth open South ward to the Verginian Sea : North-ward it affronteth part of Connaught : The East is neighboured by L●i●ster : and the West is altogether washed with the West Ocean .

(2) The length thereof extended from Ballatimore-Bay in her South , vnto the Bay of Galway in her North , are about nintie miles . Her broadest part from East to West , is from Waterford-Hauen to Feriter Hauen , and containeth an hundred miles . The whole circumference , by following the prometaries and indents , are aboue fiue hundred and fortie miles .

(3) The forme thereof is quadrant or foure-square . The 〈◊〉 milde and temperate , neither too chilling cold , not too scorching hot . The soyle in some parts is hilly , looking 〈◊〉 with wooddy , wilde , and solitary mountaines : yet the vallies below are garnished with Corne-fields . And generally , all , both pleasant for fight , and fertile for soile .

(4) This Prouince is at this day diuided into two parts that is , the West - Mounster , and the South - Mounster . The West - Mounster was inhabited i● old 〈◊〉 by the 〈◊〉 the Velabri , and the Vteri●● : the South - Mounster by the Oudi●● or 〈◊〉 , and the Cori●ndi . The Velabri and 〈◊〉 are said ( by Orosius ) to haue dwelt in that part of the Country , where it lyeth outmost Westward , and passing towards the Cantabrian Ocean , looketh a farre off to Gallitia in Spaine . The Luceni of Ireland ( who seeme to haue deriued their name and originall from the Lucen●● of Gall●tia , and of whom there still remaine some reliques in the Barony of Lyxno●● ) are supposed to haue bin seated in those parts that lie neighbouring vpon the banke of the Riuer Shemon .

(5) The generall Commodities of this Prouince , are Corne , Cattle , Wood , Wooll , and Fish . The last whereof , it affords in euery place plenty & abundance of all sorts . But none so well knowne for the store of Herrings that are taken there , as is the Promontory called Eraugh , that lies betweene Bantre and Ballatimore Bay , whereunto euery yeare a great Fleet of Spaniards and Portugals resort ( euen in the middest of Winter ) to fish also for Cods .

(6) The principall Citie of the Prouince is Limericke , which the Irish call Loumeagh , compassed about with the famous Riuer Shennon , by the parting of the Channell . This is a Bishops See , and the very Mart-Towne of Mounster . It was first wonne by Reymond le Grosse an Englishman , afterwards burnt by Duncnald an Irish petty King of Thuetmond . Then in processe of time , Philip Breos an Englishman was infeoffed in it , and King Iohn fortified it with a Castle , which he caused therein to be built . In this Castle certaine Hostages making their abode in the yeare 1332 grew ( as is reported ) so full of pride and insolency , that they flew the Constable thereof , and seized the Castle into their owne hands . But the resolute Citizens , that could neither brooke nor beare with such barbareus crueltie , did in reuenge then shew such manly courage and viuacitie , as they soone after recouered the Castle againe , repaying the Hostages in such hostile manner , as that they put them all to the sword without partialitie . The position of this Towne is by Mercator placed for Latitude 53. degrees 20. minutes ; and for Longitude , 9. degrees and 34. minutes . Neere vnto the Riuer that Ptolemy calleth Daucona , and Giraldus Cambrensis ( by the alteration of some few letters ) nameth Sauranus and Sauarenus , which issueth out of Muskerey Mountaines , is seated the Citie Corke , graced also with another Episcopall dignitie ( and with the Bishops See of Clon annexed vnto it ) which Giraldus calleth Corragia , the Englishmen Corke , & the natiue Inhabitants of the Country Coreach . This Towne is so beset on euery side with neighbouring molesters , as that they are still constrained to keepe watch and ward , as if there lay continuall siege against it . The Citizens of this place are all linkt together in some one or other degree of affinitie , for that they dare not match their daughters in marriage into the Country , but make contracts of matrimony one with another among themselues . In this place , that holy and religious man Briock is said to haue his birth and breeding , who flourished among the Gaules in that fruitfull age of Christianitie , and from whom the Diocesse of Sanbr●och in Britaine Armorua , commonly called S ▪ Brieu , had the denomination .

(7) The Citie which the Irish and Britaines call Porthlargy , and the English , Waterford , though it be last in place , yet is it not least in account , as being the second Citie of all Ireland , as well for the conuenience and commodiousnesse of the Hauen , that affords such necessary aptitude for trade and traffique , as also for the faithfull loyaltie which it hath alwayes shewed to the Imperiall Crowne of England : for euer since it was wonne by Richard Earle of Pembrook● , it still performed the obedience and peaceable offices of dutie and seruice vnto the English , as they continued their course in the conquest of Ireland : whence it is that the Kings of England haue from time to time endowed it with many large Franchises and Liberties , which King Henry the seauenth did both augment and confirme .

(8) Although since the time of S. Patricke , Christianitie was neuer extinct in this Country , yet the gouernment being haled into contrary factions , the Nobility lawles●e , and the multitude wilfull , it hath come to passe , that Religion hath waxed ( with the temporall common sort ) more cold and feeble , being most of them very irreligious , and addicted wholly to superstitious obseruations : for in some parts of this Prouince , some are of opinion , that certaine men are yearely turned into Wolues , and made Wolfe-men . Though this hath beene constantly affirmed by such as thinke their censures worthy to passe for currant and credible ; yet let vs suppose that happily they be possessed with the disease and maladie that the Physicians call Lycanthropy , which begetteth and engendreth such like phantasies through the malicious humours of Melancholy : and so oftentimes men imagine themselues to be turned and transformed into formes which they are not . Some againe embrace another ridiculous opinion , and perswade themselues , that he who in the barbarous acclamation and outcry of the Souldiers , which they vse with great forcing and straining of their voices , when they ioyne battaile , doth not howte and make a noise as the rest doe , is suddenly caught from the ground , and carried as it were flying in the ayre , out of any Country of Ireland , into some desert vallies , where he feedeth vpon grasse , drinketh water , hath some vse of reason , but not of speech , is ignorant of the present condition he stands in , whether good or bad : yet at length shall be brought to his own home , being ●aught with the helpe of Hounds and Hunters . Great pitie that the foule fiend and father of darknesse , should so grieuously seduce this people with misbeliefe , and that these errours be not chased away with the truth of Christian Religion , whereby as they carry much grace in their countenances , they may also not be void of the inward grace of their soules and vnderstanding .

(9) This Prouince hath beene fore wasted in the rebellions of Desmond , to whose ayde Pope Gregory the thirteenth , and Philip King of Spaine , sent certaine companies of Italians and Spaniards , who arriued not farre from Dingle , fortified themselues , & gaue it the name of Fort de Ore , founding loud threats against the whole Country . But A●●●ur 〈◊〉 Grey , Lord Deputie of Ireland , at the first onset decided their quarrell , by sheathing his sword in their bowels : and Desmond fearefully flying into the woods , was by a Souldier cut shorter by the head . And againe , when the Kingdome of Ireland lay bleeding , and put almost to the hazard of the last cast , Don Iohn D' Aquila , with 8. thousand Spaniards ( vpon confidence of the excommunications of Pius the fift , Gregory the thirteenth , & Clement the eight , Popes , all of them discharging their curses like vnto thunder bolts against Queene Elizabeth of blessed memory ) landed neere vnto Kinsale presuming that the rebellions of Tyrone had turned the hearts of the Irish for Rome : Sir Charles Blunt Lord Montioy , in the depth of Winter , and with his tired Souldiers , so d●●nted their Spanish hearts , that with one victory he repressed their bragging boldnesse , and recouered the Irish that were ready to reuolt .

( 10 ) God hath oftentimes shewed his tender loue and affection to this people , in laying his fatherly chastisements and afflictions vpon them , sometimes by windes , sometimes by famine and dearth , and sometimes againe by opening his hand of plenty into their laps to conuert them to himselfe , and to diuert their hearts from superstitions . In the yeare 1330 about the Feast of Saint Iohn 〈◊〉 , there be an such a dea●th of Co●●e in this Country , by the abundance of raine and the inundation of waters ( which continued vntill Michaelmas following ) that a Cranoc of Wheat was sold for 〈…〉 , a Cranoc of Oats for eight shillings , a Cranoc of Pease , Beanes , and Barley for as much . 〈◊〉 wind●s the same yeare were so mightie , that many were hurt , and many slaine outright by the fall of houses that was forced by the violence of the same . The like whereof were neuer seene in Ireland . In the yeare 1317 there was such a dearth of Corne and other victuals , that a Cranoc of Wheat was sold for twentie three shillings . And many Housholders , that before time had sustained and 〈◊〉 a great number , were this yeare driuen to beg , and many famished . In the time of which ●●mine , the mercy of God so disposed , that vpon the 27. day of Iune , in the yeare 1331 ▪ there came to land such a mightie multitude of great Sea-fishes ( that is ) Thursheds , such as in many ages past had neuer beene seene , that the people were much comforted in this distresse , and receiued great reliefe and sustenance by the same .

( 11 ) Places of Rel●gion in this Country , were the two Abbies at Yoghall , called the North-Abbey and South-Abbey : The two Abbies at Limericke , S. Francis Abbey , and S Dominicke Abbey : The two Abbies at Corke , the Abbey of the I le , and S. Frances Abbey : and the famous Abbey ( in times past ) of the holy Crosse which hath had many priuiledges and liberties granted vnto it , in honour of a peece of Christs Crosse , that was ( as they say ) sometimes preserued there . Thus were Christians perswaded in ancient times ▪ And it is a wonder in what Troopes and Assemblies people doe ( euen yet ) conflow thither vpon deuotion , as vnto a place of holinesse and sanct●●e ; so firmely are they settled in the Religion of their Fore-fathers , which hath beene increased beyond all measure by the negligent care of their Teachers , who should instruct their ignorance , and labour to reduce them from the errors they perseuere in .

LEINSTER . CHAPTER III.

THis Country , the Natiues call Leighnigh , the Britaines Lein ; in Latine , Lagenia ; in the ancient liues of the Saints , Lagen ; and in English , Leinster . It lieth Eastward along Hibernicum Sea : on Connaught side Westward it is bounded with the Riuer Shanon ; the North with the Territorie of Louth , and the South with part of the Prouince of Mounster . This Country butteth vpon England , as Mounster and Connaught doe vpon Spaine .

(2) The forme thereof is triangle , and sides not much vnequall , from her South-East vnto the West-point about 80. miles , from thence to her North-West about 70. miles , and her East Coast along the Irish Sea-shore , eightie miles : the circumference vpon two hundred and seauentie miles .

(3) The aire is cleare and gentle , mixt with a temperate disposition , yeelding neither extremitie of heat or cold , according to the seasonable times of the yeare , and the naturall condition of the Continent . The soile is generally fruitfull , plentifull both in fish and flesh , and in other victuals , as butter , cheese , and mile . It is fertile in Corne , Cattle , and pasture grounds , and would be much more , if the husbandman did but apply his industry , to which he is inuited by the commodiousnesse of the Country . It is well watered with Riuers , and for the most part well woodded , except the Countie of Diuelin , which complaines much of that want , being so destitute of wood , that they are compelled to vse a clammie kinde of fat turffe for their fuell , or Sea-coale brought out of England .

(4) The Inhabitants of these parts in Ptolemies dayes were the Brigantes , Mena●●● , Cauci , and Blain ; from which Blani may seeme to be deriued and contracted the latter and moderne names of this Country , Lein , Leighnigh , and Leinster . The Mena●●● ( as the name doth after a sort imply ) came from the Menapians , a Nation in Low Germany , that dwelt by the Sea-Coasts . These Brigantes , ca●●ed also Birgantes , Florianus del Campo ( a Spaniard ) labours to fetch from the Brigants of his owne Country , of whom an ancient Citie in Spaine ( called Brigantia ) tooke the name . But they may seeme rather to deriue their denomination from the Riuer Birgus , about which they inhabited ; for to this the very name is almost sufficient to perswade vs .

(5) The commodities of this Country doe chiefly consist in Cattle , Sea-fowle , and Fish . It breeds many excellent good horses , called Irish Hobbies , which haue not the same pace that other horses haue in their course , but a soft and round amble , setting very easily .

(6) This Country hath in it three Riuers of note , termed in old time the three sisters , Shour , Neor , and Barraeo , which issue out of the huge Mountaine ( called by Giraldus , Bladina Montes ) as out of their mothers wombe , and from their rising tops descending with a downefall into seuerall Channels , before they emptie themselues into the Ocean , ioyne hand in hand all together in a mutuall league and combination .

(7) Places very dangerous for shipping are certaine fiats and shallowes in the Sea , that lie ouer against Holy-point , which the Marriners call the Grounds . Also the shelues of sand that lie a great way in length opposite to Newcastle , which ouer-looketh them into the Sea from the top of an high hill adioyning .

(8) In this Prouince are placed many faire and wealthy Townes , as Kilkenny , which for a Burrough-Towne excels all the midland Burroughs in this Iland . Kildare , which is adorned with an Episcopall See , and much graced in the first infancy of the Irish Church , by reason of Saint Bridgid a venerable Virgin , had in great account and estimation for her virginitie and deuotion , as who was the Disciple of S. Patricke of so great fame , renowne , and antiquite : Also Weisford ( a name giuen vnto it by these Germans , whom the Irish terme Oustmans ) a Towne though inferiour to some , yet as memorable as any , for that it became the first Colony of the English , and did first submit it selfe vnto their protection , being assaulted by Fitz Stephen , a Captaine worthily made famous for his valour and magnanimitie .

(9) But the Citie which fame may iustly celebrate alone , beyond all the Cities or Townes in Ireland , is that which we call Diuelin , Ptole●ie Eblana , the Latinists Dublinium , and Dublinia ; the West-Britaines , Dinas Dulm ; the English-Saxons in times past , Duplin ; and the Irish , Balacleigh , that is , the Towne vpon hurdles : for it is reported that the place being fennish and moorish , when it first began to be builded , the foundation was laid vpon hurdles .

( 10 ) That it is ancient , is perswaded by the authoritie of Ptol●mie . That it was grieuously rent and dismembred in the tamultuous warres of the Danes , and brought afterwards vnder the sub●ection of Eadgar King of England , ( which his Charter also confirmeth , wherein he calleth it the noble Citie of Ireland ) is written by Saxo Grammaticus . That it was built by Harold of Norway , which may seeme to be Harold Har●ager , when he had brought the greatest part of Ireland into an awfull obedience vnto him , we reade in the life of Griffith ap S●●an Prince of Wales . At length it yeelded vnto the valour and protection of the English , at their first arriuall into Ireland , by whom it was manfully defended from the fierce assaults as well of Auscoulph Prince of the D●blinians , as afterwards of Gottard King of the Isles : since which time it hath still augmented her flourishing estate , and giuen approued testimony of her faith and loyaltie to the Crowne of England , in the times of any tumultuous streights and commotions .

( 11 ) This is the royall seat of Ireland , strong in her munition , beautifull in her buildings , and ( for the quantitie ) matchable to many other Cities , frequent for trafficke and intercourse of Merchants ▪ In the East Suburbs , Henry the second , King of England ( as H●ueden reporteth ) caused a royall Pallace to be erected : and Henry Loundres , Archbishop of Diuelin , built a Store-house about the yeare of Christ 1220. Not farre from it is the beautifull Colledge consecrated vnto the name of the holy Trinitie , which Queene Elizabeth of famous memory dignified with the priuiledges of an Vniuersitie . The Church of S. Patricke being much enlarged by King Iohn , was by Iohn Comin Archbishop of Dublin , borne at Euesham in England , first ordained to be a Church of Prebends in the yeare 1191. It doth at this day maintaine a Deane , a Chanter , a Chancellor , a Treasurer , two Archdeacons , and twentie two Prebendaries .

This Citie in times past , for the due administration of Ciuill Gouernment , had a Prouost for the chiefe Magistrate . But in the yeare of mans redemption 1409 King Henry the fourth granted them libertie to chuse euery yeare a Maior and two Bailistes , and that the Maior should haue a gilt sword carried before him for euer . And King Edward the sixt ( to heape more honour vpon this place ) changed the two Bailiffes afterwards into Sheriffes : so that there is not any thing here wanting that may serue to make the estate of a Citie most flourishing .

( 12 ) As the people of this County doe about the neighbouring parts of Diuelin come neerest vnto the ciuill conditions and orderly subiection of the English : so in places farther off they are more tumultuous , being at deadly feuds amongst themselues , committing oft times Man-slaughter one vpon another , and working their owne mischiefes by mutuall wrongs : for so the Irish of Leinster wasted Leinster with many Townes in the same Prouince in the yeare 1294. And in the yeare 1301. the men of Leinster in like manner raised a warre in the winter season , setting on fire the Towne of Wyk●●lo , Rathdon , and others , working their owne plague and punishment by burning vp their sustenance , and losing their Castle by depredation .

( 13 ) Matter of obseruation , and no lesse admiration among them , is the Giants dance , commonly so called , and so much talked of , which Merlin is said by Art Magicke to haue translated out of this Territorie vnto Salisburie Plaine : which how true it is , I leaue to the vaine beleeuers of miracles , and to the credulous obseruers of antiquitie .

( 14 ) In this County haue beene erected many famous Monasteries , Abbies , and religious houses , consecrated to deuout and holy purposes : As the Monastery of Saint Maries of Oustmanby , ●ounded for preaching Friers , vnto which of late dayes the Iudiciall Courts of the Kingdome haue beene translated : also the magnificent Abbey called S. Thomas Court at Dublin , builded and endowed in times past with many large priuiledges and reuenewes of King Henry the second , in expiation of the murther of Thomas Arch-bishop of Canterbury . Likewise Tiutern Monastery , or the notable Abbey which William Marshall Earle of Pembrooke founded , and called De roto , for that he had vowed to God ( being tossed at Sea with many a sore and dangerous tempest ) to erect an Abbey wheresoeuer he came to land , and being ( after shipwracke ) cast vpon land in this place , he made performance of his vow accordingly .

THE PROVINCE OF CONNAVGHT . CHAPTER IIII.

THis Prouince named by Giraldus Cambrensis , Conachtia , and Conacia , by the Irish , Conaughty , and by English-men , Connaught : is bounded East-ward , with part of the County of Leinster ; North-ward , with part of Vlster ; West-ward , with the West-maine Ocean ; and on the South , it is confined with a part of the Prouince of Mounster , closed in with the Riuer Sbennon , and butting against the Kingdome of Spaine .

(2) The forme thereof is long , and towards the North and South ends , thinne and narrow ; but as it growes towards the middle , from either part it waxeth still bigger and bigger : extending in length from the Riuer Shennon in her South , to Enis Kelling in her North , 126. miles , and the broadest part is from Tromer in her East , to Barragh-Bay in her West , containing about fourescore miles . The whole in circuit and compasse is aboue foure hundred miles .

(3) The aire is not altogether so pure and cleare , as in the other Prouinces of Ireland , by reason of certaine moist places ( couered ouer with grasse ) which of their softnesse are vsually termed Boghes , both dangerous , and full of vaporous and foggie mists .

(4) This County as it is diuided into seuerall portions , so is euery portion seuerally commended for the soile , according to the seasonable times of the yeare . Twomond or the County Clare , is said to be a Country so conueniently situated , that either from the Sea or Soile there can be nothin wisht for more , then what it doth naturally afford of it selfe , were but the industry of the Inhabitants answerable to the rest . Galway is a land very thankfull to the painefull husbandman , and no lesse commodious and profitable to the Shepheard . Maio , in the Roman Prouinciall called Mageo , is replenished both with pleasure and fertility , abundantly rich in Cattle , Deere , Hawkes , and plenty of Hony . Slego ( coasting vpon the Sea ) is a plenteous Country for feeding and raising of Cattle . Le-Trim ( a place rising vp throughout with hilles ) is so full of ranke grasse and forrage , that ( as Solinus reporteth ) if Cattle were not kept sometimes from grasing , their fulnesse would endanger them . And Rosco●en is a Territory , for the most part plaine and fruitfull , feeding many Heards of Cattle , and with meane husbandry and tillage , yeelding plentie of Corne , As euery particular part is thus seuerally profitable by in-bred commodities ; so is it no lesse commended ( in the generalitie ) for the many accomodate and fit Bayes , Creekes , and nauigable Riuers , lying vpon her Sea-coasts , that after a sort inuite and prouoke the Inhabitants to nauigation .

(5) Such as in ancient time made their abode and habitations in this Prouince , were the GANGANI , who were also called CONCANI , AVTERI , and NAGNATAE . As the Luceni ( that were next neighbours vnto them ) came from the Luceniji ( in Spaine ) so those Gangam and Coneani may seeme also to haue fetcht their deriuation from the Concan ( Nation of the selfe-same Country ) both by the affinitie of name , and vicinitie of place . In Strabo , according to the diuersitie of reading , the same people are named Coniaci and Conisci : and Silius testifieth them at the first to haue beene Scythians , and to haue vsed ordinarily to drinke horses bloud ( a thing nothing strange among the wilde Irish euen of late dayes . ) And some may also happily suppose that the Irish name Conaughty , was compounded of Concani and Nagnatae . Howsoeuer , it is sure that these were the ancient Inhabitants of this Country , as is to be seene in Ptolemie .

(6) The principall Citie of this Prouince , and which may worthily be accounted the third in Ireland , is Galway , in Irish , Galliue , built in manner much like to a Tower . It is dignified with a Bishops See , and is much frequented with Merchants , by reason whereof , and the benefit of the Road and Hauen , it is gainfull to the Inhabitants through traffique and exchange of rich commodities , both by Sea and Iland . Not farre from which , neere the West shoare that lies indented with small in-lets and out lets in a row , are the Ilands called Arran , of which many a foolish fable goes , as if they were the Ilands of the liuing , wherein none died at any time , or were subiect to moralitie ; which is as supersitious an obseruation , as that vsed in some other corners of the Country , where the people leaue the right armes of their Infants males vnch●stned ( as they terme it ) to the end that at any time afterwards , they might giue a more deadly and vngracious blow when they strike : which things doe not onely shew how palpably they are carried away by traditious obscurities , but doe also intimate how full their hearts be of inueterate reuenge .

(7) This ●ouince presents no matter more worthy of memory , then the battle of Knoe-toe ( that is ) The ●ull of axes , vnder which , the greatest rabble of Rebels , that were euer seene before in Ireland ( raised and gathered together by the Arch-Rebels of that time , William Burk O Brien , Mac-Nomare , and O-Carrol ) were after a bloudy ouerthrow discomfited and put to flight by the noble seruice of Girald F●●z-G●rald Earle of ●ildare ▪ And the suppression of certaine Irish ( the posteritie of Mac-William ) who vsurping a tyrannie in these parts , raged sometimes vpon themselues , with mutuall iniuries , and oppressed the poore people a long time with extorting , pilling , and spoiling ; so as they left scarce one house in the Country vnrifled , or vnrased ; but were bridled and repressed ( euen in our remebrance ) by the seueritie and resolution of the Commissioner of those their vniust doings , would be a meanes to draw the people away from the due obedience to their Prince : such therefore as refused to obey the lawes , and sided with the tumultuous , with all care and diligence he soone scattered , forcing their Forts , and driuing them into woods and lurking holes ( for troubling the blessed estate of tranquilitie ) till the Lord Deputie , who tooke pitie of them , vpon their humble supplication , commanded by his missiues , that they should be receiued vpon tearmes of peace . But they being a stiffenecked people , tooke armes againe , entred a-fresh into actuall rebellion , draue away booties , made foule vprores , and vpon faire promises procured the aid of the Scottish Ilanders , from out of the Hebrides : whereupon the Gouernour assembled an Armie , and pursued them with such powerfull violence through the Woods and Forrests , that after sixe or seauen weekes , being grieuously hunger-bitten , they submitted themselues in all humilitie . The Auxiliarie Forces also of the Scots , he by day and night affronted so neere , and followed so hardly , that he put them to flight , after he had killed and drowned about three thousand of them in the Riuer Moin .

(8) About the yeare 1316. there was such a great slaughter made of the Irish in this Prouince of Connaught , through a quarrell that arose there betweene two Lords or Princes , that there were slaine on both sides about foure thousand men ; and so great a tribulation at that time came vpon the people , that they did deuoure and eat one another , so as of 10000. there remained not aboue 200. liuing . And it is reported for truth , that the people were then so hunger-starued , that in Church-yards they tooke the dead bodies out of their graues , and in their sculs boiled the flesh , and fed vpon it : yea , and that women did eat their owne children . Thus appeared the ire and anger of God , in punishing their sinnes , and seeking their conuersion .

(9) Places memorable , are , Inis Ceath , well knowne by the Monastery of Colman ( a deuout Saint ) founded for Scots and Englishmen ; and Inis Bouind , which Bede calleth , White Calse Isle . Also Ma●o , a Monastery built ( as Bede writeth ) for thirtie men of the English Nation . Likewise the Barony of Boile , vnder Carlew hilles , where in times past was a famous Abbey built , together with the Abbey of Beatitude , in the yeare of grace 1152 : These Abbeyes and Monasteries erected at the first for religious seruices , and through ignorance and other obseurities diuerted since vnto superstitious vses , are now made the ruines of time .

THE PROVINCE OF VLSTER . CHAPTER V.

THis Prouince , called by our Welsh-Britaines Vltw , in Irish Cui Guilly , in Latine Vltonia , and Vlidia , in English V●sier ; on the North is diuided by a narrow Sea from Scotland ; South-ward it extends it selfe to Connagh and Leinster ; the East part lieth vpon the Irish Sea ; and the West part is continually beaten with the boisterous rage of the maine West Ocean . This Prouince and furthest part of Ireland , affronteth the Scotish Ilands , which are called the Hebrides , and are scattered in the Seas betweene both Kingdomes ; whose Inhabitants at this day is the Irish-Scot , successour of the old Scythian .

(2) The forme thereof is round , reaching in length from Coldagh-Hauen in her North , to Kilmore in her South , neere an hundred miles ; and in bredth from Black-Abbey in her East , to Calebegh point in her West , one hundred thirtie and odde miles : The whole in circumference , about foure hundred and twentie miles .

(3) This Country seldome feeleth any vnseasonable extremities , the quicke and flexible windes cooling the heat of Summer , and soft and gentle showers mollifie the hardnesse of the Winter . Briefly , the frozen nor torrid Zone haue not here any vsurpation ; the clouds in the aire very sweet and pleasant , yea , and when they are most impure , are not vnwholesome , nor of long continuance , the rough windes holding them in continuall agitation .

(4) This equall temperature causeth the ground to bring forth great store of seuerall Trees , both fit for building , and bearing of fruit ; plentifull of grasse for the feeding of Cattle , and is abundantly furnished with Horses , Sheepe and Oxen ; the Riuers likewise pay double tribute , deepe enough to ●arry Vessels either for pleasure or profit , and Fish great store , both for their owne vses , and commoditie of others . Salmons in some Riuers of this County abound more in number then in any Riuer of Europe . To speake ( in generall ) though in some places it be somewhat barren , troubled with Loughes , Lakes , and thicke Woods , yet is it euery where fresh , and full of Cattle and forrage , ready at all times to answer the husbandmans paines . But nature is there so little beholding to Art or Industry , that the various shew vpon bankes , the shady groues , the greene meadowes , hanging hilles , and fields fit for Corne , ( if they were manured ) doe seeme to be angry with their Inhabitants for suffering all to grow wild and harbarous , through their owne negligence .

(5) This Country in Ptolemies dayes was wholly possessed by the Volutij , Darni , Robogdji , and Erdini , who branched and spred themselues into the seuerall parts that Island .

(6) The people of this Prouince were accustomed in controuersies and solemne protestations , to sweare by S. Patrickes Staffe , which oath they feared more to breake , then if they had sworne by the holy Euangelist ▪ Their ancient custome in making their King , was this : A white Cow was taken , which the King must kill , and seeth the same in water whole , then must he bathe himselfe therein starke naked ; and sitting in the Cawdron wherein it was sod , accompanied with his people round about him , he and they vsed to eat the flesh and drinke the broath wherein he sate , without cup , or dish , or vse of hand . How farre these prescriptions and customes were different from the conformities of other ciuill Monarchies , we may well perceiue by these and other like obseruations of those grosse times , and as yet they are more barbarous then is any other part of the Island besides .

(7) Historians relating of Ireland , tell of seuerall Islands in the seuerall Prouinces : some full of Angels , some full of Deuils ; some for male onely , some for female ; some where none may liue , some where none can die ; and such effects of trees , stones , and waters , that a man ( but of easie conceit ) may well esteeme them as heedlesse as vncertaine . So also S. Patrickes Purgatorie ( a thing of much note in the Tract of this Prouince ) is a vault or narrow caue in the ground , 〈…〉 ( called Erne Liffer ) much spoken of , by reason of ( I wot not what ) fearefull walking spirits and dreadfull apparitions , ( or rather some religious horrour ) which ( as some ridiculously dreame ) was digd by Vlysses when he went downe to parley with those in hell . This is the caue which the Inhabitants in these dayes call ●llanu● Frugadory , that is , The Isle of Purgatory , and S. Patricks Pargatory : for some persons , lesse deuout then credulous , affirme that S. Patricke ( or rather Patricius Secundus an holy Abbot of that name ) labouring the conuersion of the people of this Prouince , and much inforcing the life to come , they replied contemptuously vnto him , that vnlesse they saw proofes of those joyes and paines he preached , they would not lose the possession of their present pleasures , in hope or feare of things to come , they wist not when Whereupon ( as they say ) he obtained at Gods hands by earnest prayer , that the punishments and torments which the godlesse are to suffer after this life , might be there presented to the eye , that so he might more easily root out the sinnes and Heathenish errours , that stucke so fast in the hearts of the Irish . But touching the credit hereof ( although common fame , and some records doe vtter it ) I neither will vrge the beliefe , nor regard , seeing it is no Article of our Creed .

(8) Matters memorable within this Prouince are these : first , that the Bishops of Ireland were wont to be consecrated by the Archbishop of Canterbury in regard of the 〈◊〉 which they had in this Country ; vntill such time as Iohn Pap●●● a Cardinall was sent thither from Pop● Eugenius the fourth , to reforme Ecclesiasticall discipline in this Iland , which 〈…〉 so loo●● , that there were translations , and pluralities of Bishops , according to the 〈◊〉 and pleasure of the Metropolitane ▪ Also that the Irish-men were accustomed to leaue and forsake 〈◊〉 wedded wiues at their owne free willes , whereof Lanfrancke Archbishop of Canterbury complained vnto Theraelua● a King of Ireland . And had not this Nation beene corrupted with this vice , euen vnto these our dayes ; both the right of lineall succession had beene more certaine among them , and the Gentry and Comminaltie had not in such cruelties imbrued themselues , with such effusion of their owne kindreds bloud , about their inheritances and legitimation .

(9) The principall place in this Tract is Armagh , neere vnto the Riuer Kalin , which ( albeit it maketh a poore shew ) is the Archiepiscopall See and Metropolitane of the whole Island . Before Saint Patricke had built there a faire Citie , for site , forme , quantitie , and compasse , modelled out ( as he saith ) by the appointment and direction of Angels , this place was named Drumfalrch ; the Irish tell much that it receiued the name of Queene Armacha : but the better opinions are , that it is the same which Bede calleth Dearmach , and out of the Scotish and Irish language interpreteth it , The Field of Oakes . Here ( as S. Bernard writeth ) S. Patricke the Apostle of Ireland ruled in his life time , and rested after death : in honor of whom it was of such venerable estimation in old time , that not onely Bishops and Priests , but Kings also and Princes were ( in generall ) subiect to the Metropolitane thereof in all obedience , and to his gouernment alone . Among the Archbishops of this Prouince , S. Malachy is famoused , who first prohibited Priests marriage in Ireland , and ( as S. Bernard saith , who wrote his life at large ) borrowed no more of the natiue barbarousnesse of that Country , then Sea-fishes doe saltnesse of the Seas . Also Richard Fitz Ralf ( commonly called Armachanus ) is of famous memory , who turning the edge of his stile , about the yeare 1355. began to oppose his opinion against the Order of Mendicant Friers , as detesting in Christians such voluntary begging . The chiefe Fort in this Tract is Enis Kelling , defended by the Rebels in the yeare 1593 and wonne by Dowdall a most valiant Captaine : neere vnto which is a great downfall of water , termed The Salmon Leape : of which there is a common speech currant among the Inhabitants , that it was once firme ground very populous and well husbanded with tillage ; till it was suddenly ouer flowne with waters , and turned into a Lake , for some filthy abominable acts of the people against Nature committed with beasts .

( 10 ) The places of Religion , sequestred from other worldly seruices , and consecrated to holy purposes , erected in this Prouince , were : The Abbey which sheweth it selfe at Donegal : The Monastery of Derie , where the Irish Rebell Shane O-N●al receiued such an ouerthrow ( by Edward Randolph , renowned for his seruice in the behalfe of his Country ) that he could neuer after recouer the losse he sustained at that time : The Monastery neere vnto the Riuer Laffer : The famous Monastery at the Bay of Knockfergus , of the same institution , name , and order , as was that ancient Abbey in England , neere vnto Chester , called Danchor : Also Mellifont Abbey , founded by Donald a King of Vriel , and much commended by S Bernard : And lastly , the most renowned Monastery , built at Armagh in the yeare of our Saluation 610. out of which very many Monasteries were afterwards propagate both in Britaine and Ireland . These places were farre and neere frequented and sought vnto by great confluences of Pilgrims , till Time proued their deuotions to be erronious , and the pure light of the word reuealed , opening the eyes of their vnderstanding , hath taught them to shake off the shame of such Superstitions .

( 11 ) That the people of this County might be kept within the bounds of their dutie , this Prouince hath beene secured with fiftie sixe Castles and Forts ; and for trade of commerce , nine Market-Townes appointed , being diuided into these Counties ensuing . Counties . Dunghall , or Tyr-connell . Vpper Tyrone . Nether Tyrone . Fermanagh . Canan . Monaghan . Colrane . Autrim . Downe . Armagh . Lough .

FINIS .