A brief account of some travels in divers parts of Europe viz Hungaria, Servia, Bulgaria, Macedonia, Thessaly, Austria, Styria, Carinthia, Carniola, and Friuli : through a great part of Germany, and the Low-Countries : through Marca Trevisana, and Lombardy on both sides of the Po : with some observations on the gold, silver, copper, quick-silver mines, and the baths and mineral waters in those parts : as also, the description of many antiquities, habits, fortifications and remarkable places / by Edward Brown.

THE General Description OF HUNGARY .

HOW far HVNGARIA exceeds other Countries of Europe in Mines , Baths and Mineral-waters ; because I have elsewhere given a particular account of such Subjects , I shall at present omit their repetitions , and at this time add some other Considerables ; and in the first place say , That it aboundeth not only in those , but is also the best Rivered Country in Europe : nor doth any Region thereof afford so many noble and useful Streams .

On the East side it is washed with that Noble and Navigable River Tibiscus , or the Teisse , arising in the Country of Maromorus , at the foot of the high Carpathian Hills : which , having received the Mariscus or Marisa , and many Rivers into it , runneth into the Danube , between Varadine , St. Peter and Belgrade . By this River comes down the great quantity of natural Stone-salt , brought from many Salt-mines in Hungary and Transylvania ; whereof a great part is brought up the Danube to all Places , as far as Presburg ; ( it being prohibited to be carried any higher ) least it should hinder the sale of the Austrian Salt , upon which the Emperor hath an Impost , and no small quantity also down the Danube , and afterwards up the River Morava into Servia and neighbouring Countries .

On the West side runs the River Arabo or Rab , rising in Styria , and running into the Danube by Javrinum or Rab. A considerable River receiving the Lauffnitz , Pinca , Guncz , and other Rivers into it . And now lately more famous for the defeat of the Turks , under Achmet the Grand Visier , by the Imperial Forces , at St. Gothard , nigh this River . The discourse hereof was fresh , when I was at the City of Rab : and many I found , who saw the Corps of Men and Horses floating in that Stream .

Upon the Southern Parts are considerable , the River Dravus or Drau , which arising in the Territory of Saltzburgland , a part of old Noricum , runs a long course through Carinthia and Hungary , and falls into the Danube near Erdoed , or old Teutoburgium ; after it hath passed from its head about three hundred Miles . About its entrance into Hungary , it receiveth into it the long River Mur ; and , far above this , nearer its original I found it a considerable Stream : having passed the same by a good Bridg as high as Villach or Villaco , and between Clagenfort and Mount Leubell in Carinthia , I passed the same also by two long Wooden Bridges , and an Island in the middle between them .

On the same side is also the noble River Savus , or the Sau ; which arising in Carinthia , entreth the Danube at Belgrade ; continuing a long course of about three hundred Miles , and swelling by the accession of many good Rivers . Being at Carnodunum or Crainburg , an handsom Town , not far distant from the Head , it appeared a considerable Stream ; which is afterwards so enlarged , as to have remarkable Islands in it , as that of Metubaris , to the West of old Sirmium , and that of Segestica or Sisseck , by Zagrabia , containing of old a strong and famous Town ; unto which the old R mans brought their Commodities from Aquileia , and so by Land to Labach or Nauportus ; from thence unto Segestica , and forwards , for the supply of those Provinces and their Garrisons and Forces in them . Between these two noble Currents of the Dravus and the Savus , lyeth a fair and long Inter-amnian Country , wherein Solyman the Magnificent chose a safe retreat , until he came to Belgrade : when , with about four hundred thousand Men , which he brought to take Vienna , he dared not to meet the Forces of Charles the Fifth , then encamped before that City .

Upon the North part of Hungary , are the Rivers arising from the Carpathian Mountains , which divide Poland and Hungary ; more particularly the River Gran , which runs into the Danube , over against Strigonium or Gran ; and also the River Waag or Vagus , which comes in above Comara : which Stuckius , an ocular Witness , conceiveth to equal the Po in Italy . I am sure , at Freistat , above fifty Miles , before it dischargeth into the Danube , it is a very large Stream , and hath a long Bridge over it ; part whereof was broken down by the Ice , the same year when I was there . And far above it , nearer the head , there is also a considerable Bridge at Trenschin , a fair Town , which gives the name unto that Country , and much resorted unto for its hot Baths and Mineral Waters ; having no less than thirty two plentiful Springs .

The great Danubius or Thonau continues its Stream quite through Hungary ; and no one Province hath a larger share of it ; for accounting from the City of Vlme in Swabenland or Suevia , where it beginneth to be Navigable , it continues a long course , passing by Ingolstad , Ratisbone , Straubing , Passau , Lintz and Vienna unto Presburg ; from whence through Hungary it makes a course of above three hundred Miles , before it passes by Belgrade : To omit the long Stream thereof in its farther progress , when having washed the Shoars of Servia , Bulgaria , Wallachia and Moldavia , with many mouths it entreth the Euxine or Bla k-Sea : having in this long passage drank in above sixty considerable Rivers ; and in sober account performed a course of above fifteen hundred Miles . Whereby it may tolerably admit the double name of Danubius and Ister , properly applyed unto distinct Parts thereof .

So that , altho I have seen the Danubius , for about seven hundred Miles ; yet cannot tell , whether I may certainly say , that I have seen any part of Ister . For Strabo ascribes that name unto it , below its Cataract , or great fall , which happenes about Axiopolis , in Moesia inferior , or Bulgaria . But Appianus , and later Account , define it to begin at its concurrence with the Savus at Belgrade : and if so , yet we had but a short sight of the Ister ; which travelling more up into Servia , we were fain to leave at Hissargich . And of this Ister or lower part of the River , many things are spoken and related by the Ancients , which are not so plainly verifiable of Danubius .

An Aqua Duct near Scopia .

Besides these large Rivers above named , there are some others , taken notice of also by Pliny ; and esteemed Huvii non ignobiles . The Sarvizza or Orpanus , arising near Vesprinium , and passing by Alba Regalis , runs into the Danube , which I passed over at Jeni , or nova Palanka . The River Walpo or Vulpanus , arising above the Town of Walpo , which was taken by Solyman , in his march to Alba Regalis , or Stull-Weissenburg . We passed over it by Walcovar , and the River Bosneth or Bacun●hus , which runs into the Savus , not far from old Sirmium .

As this Country excels in Rivers , so has it also many considerable and long Bridges . There is a long Bridge of Boats over the Danube , between Strigonium and Barchan , which is the first Bridge on this River , which we meet with from the great Wooden Bridge at Vienna , which takes above two thousand Trees to plancher it . Upon the shoar of St. Andrew's Island by Virouichitz , I took notice of a ruine of Stones , where the Turks told us , there had been formerly a Stone Bridge : but the Turks in these Parts , think it best to make Bridges of Boats ; which they so handsomly contrive , as to open a passage for Boats and Vessels of burthen to pass ; so that he that beholds those in these Parts , will not wonder at the Bridges of Boats at Rouen , and Grenoble in France . Between Buda and Pest , there is a Bridge of Boats over the Danube , where it runs all in one Stream , of above half a Mile long , the best I have seen of this kind ; and if Sigismund had lived to effect his Design , of making a notable Stone Bridge in this Place , there had probably been no Bridge in Europe to compare with it . There is also a Bridge at Calocza , formerly an Archbishop's Sea , and a handsome and well-contrived Bridge , by Walcovar over the River Walpo . But that of Esseck , or Mursa of old , is scarce to be parallel'd with any other ; built partly over the Dravus , and partly over the Fenns , which are often overflowed . The Bridge is five Miles at least in length , having Towers built upon it at the distance of every quarter of a Mile : It is handsomly railed on each side , and supported by great Trees , erected under it ; nine or ten in a rank , unto each Arch. That part of the Bridge , which was built over the Dravus , was burnt down by Count Nicholas Serin , in the late Turkish Wars between Leopoldus the First , Emperor of Germany , and Sultan Mahomet the Fourth : and is now supplyed by a Bridge of Boats , somewhat below the former ; which I passed over in September , 1669. The Turks did not rebuild it in the same place , because the Supporters below the Water , when the fire ceased , were so strongly fastned and hard , that it would have cost them too great a labour to get them up . By this Bridge the Turkish Forces pass into Hungary : and at this place the unfortunate King Ludovicus thought to have stopped the Turkish Army which marched under Solyman . And lately Count Serini undertook a long March to burn the same , to prevent Supplies from coming to the Visier , who was with his Army in other parts of Hungary .

And as there are still many Bridges over the upper Danube , so have there also been in Old time upon the lower , or Istrian part thereof . Darius King of Persia made a Bridge of Boats over that Mouth of the Ister called Ostium Sacrum . Nicephorus relates , that Constantine built a Stone Bridge over it . But the most remarkable and admirable Bridge , was that , built by the Emperor Adrian , and described by Dion the Historian : whereof there are still some Ruines , not far from Severin , about twenty Hungarian Miles from Belgrade . This Bridge consisted of twenty Piles of square Stone of an hundred foot high , besides the Foundation : of sixty foot in breadth , and the distance between each of them one hundred and seventy foot ; and conjoyned by Arches , upon the which was this Inscription ,

PROVIDENTIA AUG. VERE PONTIFICIS VIRTUS ROMANA QUID NON DOMAT ? SUB JUGUM ECCE RAPITUR ET DANUBIUS .

And , as a Memorial hereof , many Roman Coins were stamped , and some in Silver , not yet rare among us , with this Inscription , DANUVIUS .

No River affordes so large and peopled Islands . Between Vicegrad and Vacia , there is a fair and large Island , called St. Andrew's Island . Another a little below Buda , against the West side of which stands Adom , extending forty Miles ; and exceeds that of the Isle of Man , containing many Villages in it ; upon part whereof the Turkish Forces encamped , when they came to raise the Christian Siege at Buda , and was the great omission and error of the Christians , that they fortified not in that Island . Another against Mohatch : another about the entrance of the Dravus : and a new one hard by Belgrade , made by the settling of the Silt or Ouse brought down by the Savus and the Danube ; where thirty five years ago there was no face of an Island , but is now full of Trees ; how this may advantage or disadvantage Belgrade , future times may shew . But the Turks are so secure and fearless of any Forces , that may ever hurt them in these Parts , that they have no consideration of such things . And allowing the River Leyta to be the boundary of Austria , the Island of Schut , or Insula Ci●uorum , will prove most considerable of any ; containing many good Towns , as Comora , Sumarien ; besides very many Villages . And passing through it , I found it well peopled and ordered against Incursions ; wherein there have been divers , formerly made by Turks , Tartars , and rebellious Forces .

No River whatsoever , so far from its discharge into the Sea , affordes more Naval Vessels of strength and sufficiency for Fight ; nor hath any afforded the like signal Engagements and Encounters , at this distance from the Sea . The Emperor hath some Vessels of War handsomly built , like Gallies at Vienna , Presburg and Comora ; and an Arsenal for provision of many upon occasion . The Turk at Strigonium , Buda , Belgrade , and other places below .

At the Siege of Belgrade , Mahomet the great brought two hundred Ships and Gallies , well appointed , up the Stream . And the Hungarians sent Turkish History . so many down the Stream , from Buda , that after a sharp encounter , they took twenty of the Turkish Vessels , and forced the rest on Shoar near the Camp ; so that , to prevent falling into the Enemies hand , Mahomet was fain to cause them to be set on fire . The Christians had a great Fleet at the Siege of Buda , when all miscarried under Turkish History . Count Regensdorff . For the History delivers , that the Christian Fleet consisted of four and twenty Galliots , about fourscore small Pinnaces , and little less than an hundred Ships of Burthen , and other great Boats . By the help of such Naval Vessels Wolfgandus Hodder did a good piece of Service , when Solyman besieged Vienna ; for he came out of Presburg with armed Vessels , and sunk the Vessels sent from Buda with the great Ordnance , to batter the Walls of Vienna .

And as this Country aboundeth in Rivers , so is it not without some notable Lakes , as the Lake Balaton or Platsee , or Volcaea of old , extending a great length between Vesprinium and the Dravus , with some strong Forts upon it . This Lake put a stop unto the cruelty of Solyman's Souldiers , who destroyed all from Buda unto the Lake Balaton . And since it lyeth on the East of the River Leyta , we may also reckon in the Newsidler Sea , a pleasant Lake , seven German Miles long , and three broad : so called from Newsidel , a small Town , of one street and some backward Houses , with a small square Castle upon an Hill by it , from whence I had a good prospect over all the Lake . In the Commotions of Botscay , fourteen Villages about this Lake were burnt by Turks , Tartars and rebellious Heyducks . The Hungarians call it Terteu and Pliny , Peiso . It is in the middle way between Vienna and Sabaria , the birth-place of Saint Martin . The long extended plain of Pampus , in Paraguay in America , exceeds all others , as being two thousand Miles in length . And I have heard that famous Navigator , Captain Narborough , say , who not long since , was Commander of the Sweepstakes , and made a Voyage in her into the South-Sea , that there is all low Land from the River of Plate , unto the middle of the Straights of Magellan . Moscovia and Poland have long Plains , but many of them Woody , and obscured by Trees ; but none more open and clear Plains than this Country . The greatest Plains . I have observed in England , are those of Salisbury , Lincoln and New-Market . But these are but long Walks , compared with those of Hungary ; and are exceeded by the Plains of Austria , from Vienna unto Mount Simmeren , unto the Borders of Styria . And though the Vpper-Hungary be hilly and plentiful in Wood ; yet are there large Plains below . I travelled from Vienna to Belgrade , about four hundred Miles , upon continued and not interrupted Plains ; which often appeared like the Sea , without any visible Eminencies , only a short and plain Wood , by Bacna , and Shilberg , beyond Dotis ; and if we reckon the full of this Plain , it will prove much longer , extending from Mount Kalenberg or Cetius , two German Miles West-ward of Vienna , and so beyond Belgrade , still along the North side of the Danube , unto the Borders of Walachia ; which will make a larger extent , than the famous long Walk from Agra to Lahor in India . This plainness of the Country , affords an handsome way of Travelling in open Chariots , carrying one or two Men with a Charioter , drawn by two or three , sometimes four Horses a Breast ; and room enough to lye down . In this manner I travelled from Buda to Belgrade , over fair large Plains ; and many Miles upon Green-Swarthe and unworn Wayes ; especially in the County of Sirmium or Schremnia , as they now call it .

No Country hath so large a share of Capital Cities upon the Danube ; for whereas from the course thereof , from Vlme unto Belgrade , there are reckoned Ten very considerable ones , there are no less than four thereof , that is Presburg , Strigonium , Buda and Belgrade , accounted unto Hungary ; and Buda , with the addition of Pest , on the otherside the Water , seems to be the largest of them all ; and I believe the largest also of any upon that Stream .

As the Rivers are full of Fish , so are they covered with Fowl , in the Winter ; Swans I observed none in the Danube , but many other Fowls ; and some Pelicans , not far from Belgrade .

As the Waters are also fruitful in Fish , so the Land aboundeth in other Provisions ; and very eminently in the two supporters of Life , Bread and Wine : their Bread is hardly exceeded by any in Europe ; worked up and kneaded with long continued labour ; and so made light wholsome , and well tasted ; and at so cheap a rate , that for two pence as much is afforded there , as twelve pence with us in England . And indeed in all the Turkish Dominions , where I travelled , I met with so good and well tasted Bread , that with Wine , it was a Feast ; and with Water a sufficient Repast . Grapes they have very delicious and large ; those at Virouichitz by Vacia , are of eminent Note ; Wines also of a generous and noble sort ; the Wines of Tokay are highly esteemed ; the Sirmian Wines are very rich and pleasant , in the South part of Hungary , in which Province the Emperor Probus is said to have planted Vines , about Mount Almus or Arpataro . In many other places the Wines are very noble ; and some brought unto Vienna , where there are above thirty sorts of Wines to be sold , brought from several Parts .

And as the ground is not unfruitful in its own Nature , so they are not without the practise of Good-Husbandry , both in their Arable and Pasture Grounds : especially in Vpper-Hungary , and Parts not subjected to the Turks . I being there , about the end of February , saw every night all the Country about us on fire , occasioned , by burning the Stubble and Grass and Herbs ; which afterwards , arose with plenty again .

Saepe etiam sterileis incendere profuit agros , Atque levem stipulam crepitantibus urere flammis . To set their Fields on fire , and Stubble burn With crackling Flames , does to their profit turn .

They use not Barnes or Stackes of Corn ; but have many deep and large Caves under Ground , wherein they lay it up safe , both from Robbers and sudden incursion of Enemies . At Clesch near Toopolchan , when the Turks and Tartars made their Inroads in the last Wars , the People retired , and hid themselves in such Cavities ; but some Turks , speaking Schlavonian , told them that the Coast was clear , and the Enemy gone ; and so tempting them out of their Holes , they were unfortunately deceived into Captivity , and carried away into remote Countreys never to be heard of again .

There is also great plenty of Deer , Hares , all sorts of Poultrey , Partridges and Pheasants ; great store of Sheep , which in divers places , have long Spiral Horns , and very long curled Wooll . And Oxen in great numbers , whereof 't is thought they send an hundred thousand yearly into Italy , Germany , and other Parts ; and it is commonly said , they have enough to serve a great part of Europe . They are of a kind of Mouse-colour ; and the Eastern Company at Vienna hath the privilege to bring them , to furnish that City . There are also Buffelo's , whereof they make no small advantage , in ploughing of their Lands , especially in some stiff Grounds , where they must else use five Yoaks of Oxen to a Plough ; and one in my company told me that he had been fain to make use of six Buffelo's to draw a light Calleche , or Chariot through some Grounds . Not far from Botesech , there are Horses also in very great number , some large , many but small , yet swift . I saw a thousand of them belonging to the Peasants at Sone , Sene or Senia , a Village upon the Danube , in the Contribution Country , nor far from Comara .

As they exceed in many things , so they are peculiar in some others ; particularly in their Language , which is proper to themselves , and different from any other . I went to a Church at Bitchka , where the Minister Prayed and Preached ; and though there were a very good Linguist with me , who spake Schlavonian , German , Turkish , Vulgar Greek and Italian ; yet could he make nothing of it , or find affinity in it , with any other Language he knew . A Specimen hereof is set down by Megiserus , of the Lords Prayer , in that Language . Mi Attyanck Ky vagy az meniegbe , m●gh Szentel Tesseck az te newed , &c. In the like manner we were confounded by the Language of Albania , on the Northward part of Epirus , and West of Macedonia . We made use of some of that Countrey in passing the Mountains , who were able to speak some Schlavonian : But as for Albanese , or their own Language , wherein they were delighted to sing Day and Night , as they travelled with us , our best Linguists , both Turks and Christians , understood nothing of it .

In some parts of Hungary , many speak Schlavonian , at Freistat , which the Hungarians call Colgotz . I observed , that at the Church , the Sermon was in Schlavonian ; but at the Franciscans Church , in Hungarian . This incommunication in Speech , makes them to learn other Languages , and especially the Latin , which very great numbers speak , especially the Gentry and Souldiers , and I scarce met with any elsewhere , who spake it more ready , than the Noble Graff Sacchy , Governour of Dotis , and his Lieutenant Elvedy . I have also met with Coachmen , Watermen , and mean Persons , who could make themselves understood thereby .

The Latin-Tongue is very serviceable in Hungaria and Transylvania : but below Belgrade of little help unto a Traveller , where that far extending Language , the Scklavonian , prevails . And indeed , with the help of two Languages , German and Schlavonian , a Man may make a shift to Travel from Hamburg to the Boders of Tartary , and to Constantinople . And I have heard that the Schlavonian alone is understood from Mockelberg in Germany to the Caspian Sea . And before we come to Belgrade , the Schlavonian enters again ; which is also spoken in Servia , Bulgaria , Romania , and a great part of Macedonia ; and in so many other Countrys , that with this Language a Man may make a shift to be understood from the Adriatick-Shore of Dalmatia , unto the Tartarian Ocean . For we read in Purchas , that when the Hollanders returned from Nova Zembla ; the Inhabitants not very far off could say , Dobre , and Nich Dobre ; that is , Good , and not Good ; which are expressions of approving or disapproving , in the Schlavonian Language .

The Turkish Power so much prevailing or threatning in these Parts ; it is in vain , to expect any great Vniversity beyond Vienna . Nor do I find that there hath been any very considerable ones in this Countrey ; and though they have had many Bishops and learned Men ; yet they have had their Education many of them out of Hungary . As had also of old St. Jerom St. Martin . And the present Hungarians , which addict themselves unto Learning , especially those of Quality , do commonly Study at Vienna , Prague or Breslaw ; a small University , or publick Study there is at present at Schemnitz .

But the Hungarians may justly boast of early helps unto learning , and a very noble Library erected at Buda , by their King Matthias Corvinus , Son of the famous Hunniades , about two hundred years ago ; consisting of some thousands of Books , especially Greek and Latine Manuscripts not to be met with or Purchased elsewhere ; part whereof was dispersed into the Turkish Dominions , when Solyman surprized that City ; and a choice part thereof procured afterwards , for the Imperial Library at Vienna , when Cuspinianus was Keeper thereof , divers whereof are marked with the Armes of Corvinus , a Crow bearing a Gold Ring in his Beak ; which with many succeeding additions , made by Busbequius , Wolfgangus , Lazius , Fugger , and others ; together with the choicest Manuscripts , brought from the Ambrasian Library near Inspruch , by the Learned Petrus Lambecius , the present Library Keeper , make up the fourscore thousand Volumes , now contained in the Emperors Library at Vienna , by the especial Favour of which worthy Person , I had the honour , not only to see many of the choicest and most specious thereof , together with many Noble Rarities in that Place ; but to have any useful Book unto my private Lodgings . And at my coming away , he gave me a Catalogue of some hundreds of Alchymical Manuscripts , which are in that Library , which I presented to the Royal Society , from him ; with leave to have any of them brought into England , or to be Transcribed at Vienna , if they pleased . And if the three most admirable Brass Statua's of Hercules , Apollo and Diana , which were placed at the entrance of Corvinus his Palace in Buda , had not been carried away by Solyman , and cast into Ordnance at Constantinople ; it is not improbable , they had been by this time at Vienna . About four hundred Books , the Reliques and refuse of the Library at Buda , were lately remaining there ; where it was no easie matter to have a sight of them ; yet so carelesly kept by the Turks , that Worms , Mice and Rats were like to have the Spoil thereof . But the Fire at Buda 1669 , hath now consumed them all .

And as their Language is peculiar , so is the Opinion of their Crown ; of which they have the greatest esteem of any other Nation . This they commonly believe to have been brought by an Angel from Heaven unto St. Stephen , their King : and have so high an estimation thereof , that they think , the Right and Fate of the Kingdom goeth with the possession thereof . Which makes them very wary in the Custody of it , and in all Adversities to secure it . And the Turk hath been always industrious to obtain it . It was formerly kept in the Castle of Vicegrad ; but at present in that of Presburg .

Pineda cut of Cromerus . And this opinion is probably founded upon the Tradition or Story , how they came unto it ; which is thus delivered . King Stephen intending to settle the Christian Government in his Kingdom , appointed two Arch-Bishops Sees ; Strigonium , which was the place of his Nativity , and Colocza ; and sent Astricus , Bishop of Colocza , to the Pope , to confirm the same , together with his Kingdom , and to send him a Crown , and other Royal Ornaments . At the same time it fell out , that Misca , King of Polonia , sent about the same Errant : and a Crown was providing for him . But Pope Benedict the Eight , in the mean time was warned by an Angelical Apparition , to send the Crown unto King Stephen ; which accordingly he did , which probably begot that great Veneration and high Opinion , they have ever since had of it .

The Crown it self is also singular in its Fashion and Figure ; for it is a low Crown , with a Cross upon it , with four Leaves or Turnings up about it ; one whereof is as large as the other three , at least as two thereof . It is no easic Favour to obtain a view of this Crown at Presburg , but I saw a Model of it in the Treasure of the present Emperor Leopoldus ; which was a Crown of Gold , adorned with many precious Stones , exactly made after the fashion of the Hungarian Crown , and perhaps richer than the exemplar .

Though the Hungarians want not Ingenuity , Industry , and sufficient parts for Learning , and liberal Arts ; yet have they been more addicted unto Martial affairs , than unto deep Learning : Even the Bishops and Clergy-men proving stout Soldiers ; and no less than six Bishops were slain , with their King Ludovicus , in that fatal Battel of Mohatch .

Some report , and others believe , that the famous Poet , Ovid died , and was buried in Hungary at Sabaria , seated at the confluence of the Rivers Guntz and Regnitz before they run into the Rab. Where it is reported , that he having been banished unto Tomos , near the Euxine Sea , was at last recalled , and in his return towards Italy died at Sabarta . Where 't is said his Tomb was found with this Epitaph , made by himself :

Hic situs est Vates , quem Divi Caesaris Ira Augusti patriâ cedere jussit humo . Saepè miser voluit patriis occumbere terris , Sed frustrà , hunc illi fata dedere locum .

Before I came into Hungary , I observed no shadow or shew of the old Pyrrhical Saltation , or Warlike way of Dancing , which the Heyducks practice in this Country . They dance with naked Swords in their hands , advancing , brandishing and clashing the same ; turning , winding , elevating , and depressing their bodies with strong and active motions ; singing withal unto their measures , after the manner of the Greeks .

The mighty Acts of Attila , King of this Country , together with the numerous Forces he brought out of these and the neighbouring parts , are very remarkable ; whereby he over-ran a considerable part of Germany , and a great part of Italy : Sacked and Burnt Aquileia ; and fought that memorable Battel with Aetius , the Roman General , in Campis Catalonicis , near Tholouse ; wherein 't is said were ten Kings present , and about two hundred thousand slain : and , which is also observable , the Generals on both sides were of these Parts ; for Attila Jornandes . was a Hunne , and Aetius a Maesian , or Servian , of the neighbour Country . And in succeeding Ages , how far and widely the Kings of Hungary enlarged their Dominions , besides many Historical Accounts , is tellified at their Coronation , by ten Banners carried by Great Persons ; Monsieur de Fumee . wherein were represented ten Provinces of that Kingdom : that is , Hungaria , Dalmatia , Croatia , Schlavonia , Galisia , Rascia , Servia , Bulgaria , Bosnia , and Ludomiria .

This Country has given the longest stop unto the Turkish Conquests , and farther intrusion into the Western Parts of Europe . For most , which they have already obtained , has been upon the advantage of the Hungarian Divisions , and their own subtilty and false practises ; and Solyman , by such false and low dealings , surprized the Capital City of Buda . And although the Turk has now obtained the best part of the Country ; yet almost a third part remains out of his Power , and in obedience to the Emperor , as King of Hungaria : as almost all Vpper Hungary , from Presburg unto Tokay , and Zatmar . And there are yet out of their hands the three notablest Bulwarks of Chrislendom ; Rab , Komara , and Leopoldstadt ; all which I had the advantage to fee. This last has been erected since the loss of Newheusell ; and made much after the same manner ; consisting of Six regular Bastions revestues . It is seated on the West side of the River Waag ▪ over against Freistadt , not far from the place where the Tartars passed over in the last War , and destroyed a great part of the Country , and carried away many Captives from those Parts , and out of Moravia . This Fortisication was begun in the year 1665 , and was well advanced , but not finished when I was there , 1669. Count Souches the younger was then Governor thereof ; from whom I received great Civility in that place ; and a Guard of Foot Soldiers , to convoy me through the Contribution Country , towards Schemnitz , Cremnitz , and the other Mine Towns .

Many Roman Emperors have honoured these Quarters with their Presence , Birth , Death , or great Actions . For ( to omit Trajan , Caracalla , Galienus , Constantius , and many more ) the Emperors Aurelianus , Probus , Gratianus , Maximianus , had their Nativities at Sirmium ; and Claudius Gothicus died in it , or near it . Jovianus , and Valentinianus were Born in Pannonia . Ingenuus , Governor of Pannonia , was saluted Emperor by the Moesian Legions . Vetranio likewise , in the same Country . And at Sirmium was held a General Council , when Photinus was Bishop of that place .

The Roman Armies being much in this Country , no wonder it is , that so many Coins of Copper , Gold , and Silver are to be found in it : Whereof I obtained no small number at Petronell , or Old Carnuntum , which was a Part of Pannonia . And at Sene , or Senia , situated near the Danube , I met with very many . They are also to be found at Old Buda , or Sicambria ; at Old Sirmium in the Country , now called Schremnia ; at Mursa , or Esseck , and many other Parts . An Armenian Merchant , in whose House I lodged at Belgrade , undertook to provide me with Roman Coins against my return : which he might well do about those Parts , as at Sirmium , Samandria , and other places . And not far from thence Lysimachus , King of Macedon and Thrace , is conceived to have kept his abode , at a Castle or Palace near Deva ; where that unparallel'd mass of Gold Medals was found , as is particularly delivered by Monsieur Fumeé , in his Account of the Wars of Hungary .

Near the Town of Deva or Devas , was found great store of Treasure , by the Peasants of the Country , under an Ancient Castle or Palace , all ruined and decayed . The Rain continuing a long time , and the Water running with a forcible current , there was discovered an infinite company of Golden Medals : upon one side of which was Coined the Image of Lysimachus , on the other side a Victory ; every one weighing two or three Crowns . The Storm and rage of water being past , and the Sun shining on these , made a marvellous glittering ; which perceived by the Peasants , they remained ravished with joy ; and taking them up , they also found a Golden Serpent : which afterwards General Castalde sent unto Ferdinand , with a part of these Ancient Medals . This being an ancient Custom with those who buried their Treasure , to place Serpents there , in token of a Faithful keeper . After the Peasants had taken , no man knew what , others took from thence more than Twenty thousand Ducats . And the report was , that they might have taken an hundred Thousand . For that had sometimes been the abode of King Lysimachus . Whereof Ferdinand had a Thousand , and Castalde three Hundred . Which Coin remained in this place from Lysimachus's time . Among other notable Antiquities , there were also found two Medals of Gold , the one of Ninus , the other of Semiramis , which were sent to the Emperor Charles the Fifth . And there was not any Man in all that Province , of what Authority or reputation soever , who had not some of these Medals : so infinite was found this Sum to be .

In the Old Roman Towns , through which I passed , the People , upon notice given , would bring what Coins they had , called by them Heathen-money . In the Countries of Servia and Bosna , the Armenians and Jews make Collections , and send them to Ragusi ; from whence the greatest part is carried into Italy . I must not omit one Copper Coin of the Emperor Julius Philippus , which I found common in those Parts , and very rare in others ; it hath on the Obverse , the Head of Philippus , with this Inscription , I M P. C. M. JVL. PHILIPPVS AVG. on the Reverse , a Woman between a Lyon and a Bull , with the Inscription , P. M. S. COL. VIM . AN. VII ; which may be Provinciae Moesiae Superioris Colonia Viminacium Annona Septimo data .

Viminacium was a Roman Colony in Moesia Superiour , now Servia ; and conceived to be Singidunum , or Senderin upon the Danube , at the entrance of the River Moschius or Morava ; by the Lyon and the Bull , might be declared the goodness of the Soil , fit for Agriculture , and the Valour and Courage of the People ; and by those fierce Animals sitting so quietly together , that , by the Prudence of Philippus , Agriculture went on , and none found opposition from the Lyca , or force of others .

Annona Septimo data ; The Seventh time of the distribution of Corn under Philippus . The Legio decima sexta frumentaria , which was quartered in that place , having the Charge of the conducting thereof ; as the Learned Tristan has conjectured .

an Hungarian

R●g 22

W Sherwin●● ▪

This is the Habit of an Hungarian , which is found to be so fit and convenient for all sort of Exercise , especially on Horseback , and in War , that it is made use of also by the Croatians , Schlavonians , and other Nations , and by the Turks themselves who live near the Frontiers ; although otherwise they seldom change their own Habits . The Hungarians delight most in Colours , wearing Blew , Yellow , Green , and Purple Cloth ; and it is rare to see any one in Black ; the Priests themselves being habited in long Purple Garments . The Hungarians usually carry in their hands , a Club , or Iron Mace , of which they have two sorts , a Catshan , and a Delta , or Balta as they pronounce it . The Catshan hath a globular Iron head with furrows in it , and spaces cut away to render it more light , and easie to be handled ; this is expressed in the Figure of the Hungarian Habit ▪ the Delta hath a head somewhat like a Hammer , but broader , and at the end makes the shape of that Letter .

A JOURNEY FROM Vienna in Austria , TO Larissa in Thessalia .

HAVING passed the Winter in the Imperial City of VIENNA , I took a Journey into Hungary , to view the Copper , Silver , and Gold Mines in those Parts . And not long after , although I had already had a fair sight of Italy , I made a Journey unto VENICE , passing through Austria , Styria , Carinthia , Carniola , and Friuli ; and soon after my return to Vienna , I met with an opportunity , which carried me unto the Ottoman Court , which then , and a long time before , resided at the famous Old City of LARISSA in Thessaly . You are not to expect the Names of all Places , which I passed ; yet divers you will find mentioned , which are not to be found in Mapps ; except you have some more exact , than any I have met with .

Between Vienna and Presburg , above the confluence of the River Marck with the Danube , I could not but take notice of the Town of Petronell , and Haymburg Hill and Castle . Petronell is conceived to have been Old Carnuntum , a strong Hold of the Pannonians , in vain attempted by the Romans , an Hundred and seventy years before the Incarnation ; but was afterwards subdued , in the time of Augustus , made a Roman Colony ; and the Station of the Legio decima quarta gemina , and the Classis Istrica ; and in process of time so enlarged , that it became the chief City of Pannonia Superior , and comprehended that tract on the South Bank of the Danube , wherein now stand Haymburg , Dutch Altenburg , and St. Petronell .

I had been formerly at Petronell , to inform my self in the noble Ruines and Antiquities thereof ; where I met with variety of Medals , Inscriptions , remainders of a noble Aquaeduct , and the Remains of a goodly Fabrick , which I thought might be the ruine of a Temple of Janus , but it is conceived to have been a Triumphal Arch , erected in Memory of a great Victory over the Pannonians , and Dalmatians , by Tiberius , in the Ninth year of our Lord . My noble Friend , Petrus Lambecius , hath set forth the Figure of one side thereof ( in the Second part of his Description of the Imperial Library , ) and of the back part I took a Draught my self . This , and other Carnuntine Antiquities may be seen in the same Author ; and more may be expected , when that Worthy Person shall please to Publish his Carnuntum redivivum .

In this place , the Emperor Antoninus Philosophus , in order to his Wars with the Marcomanni , now Moravians , resided the space of Three years , and died at Vindobona , now Vienna : and here Severus was elected Emperor by the German Legions . But this Noble and Ancient City was ruined , in after-times , by Attila the Hunne , in his Incursions into these Parts : Yet there are still remaining many marks of its Ancient Greatness . And though Grass now grows where Old Carnuntum stood ; yet by an observing Eye , the Foundations of their Houses , and their Streets are still discoverable : and such great quantities of Roman Coins have been of a long time , and are still found there , that the Boors are commonly well furnished with them ; of whom I purchased a great number : and Mr. Donellan , an Irish Gentleman , who then travelled with me , and was walking in my Company , viewing these Old Remains of former Greatness , by chance strook with his foot a Silver Coin out of the Earth .

Presburg , Posonium , Pisonium , and by some thought to be Flexum , is a pleasant City seated on the North side of the Danube , ten German miles Eastward from Vienna , the chief City of Hungaria in the Impeperial Dominions thereof ; since the loss of Buda , the place of Convention for the Estates ; and since the loss of Strigonium , the Metropolitan City . The City is pleasant ; the Castle is stately , beautiful , and well situated on the top of a Hill , and built of White Stone ; herein is kept the so highly esteemed Crown of Hungary , commonly believed to have been brought by an Angel from Heaven , unto St. Stephen their King ; and is of a different figure from other Crowns . The Garden of the Arch-Bishop is very fair ; the Walks , the Grotto's , the figure of Jeronimo , the Labirynth , Fish-ponds , and Fountains are Noble . In the Dome , or Cathedral Church , lieth the Body of St. Johannes Eleemosynarius , Bishop of Alexandria . The Jesuits have a part of the same Church , and a noble Apothecaries Shop , full of Rarities . The Lutherans have also a fair Church here .

Rab , or Javrinum , a City seated at the confluence of the Rivers Rab , Rabnitz , and the Danube : and a strong Frontier Bulwark against the Turk . It hath two Bridges , one over a double Ditch , leading towards Austria ; and another towards Alba Regalis , or Stullweissenburg . It hath seven large Bastions , and four Cavalliers , or high Mounts , which over-look them . The first is the Castle Bastion , upon which stands the Castle or Palace of the Governour . The second is the Water Bastion , lying towards the Danube . The third is the Bastion of the holy Hill , under which when the Turks sprang a Mine , a Horseman was blown off from the top of it into the Danube , without any hurt to himself or his Horse . The fourth is the middle Bastion , towards the Land Eastward . The fifth is the new Bastion . The sixth is the Imperial , or Empress Bastion . And the seventh is the Hungarian Bastion , lying next the River Rab , where the Turkish Governor was killed when the Town was surprised in the Night by the Christians . The Country is all plain about , and there is nothing which seems to command it , but a small Hill at some distance , which is undermined , and may be blown up upon any occasion ; beyond which there is also a Tower or Spy in the open Fields , to discover the approach of the Enemy . It was Besieged by Sinan Bassa , in the Reign of Sultan Amurah the Third ; where he lost many Men , and at one assault Twelve thousand ; but at last was Surrendred , by the Treachery of Count Hardeck , the Governor ; which cost him his Head at Vienna ; where , upon a Seaffold covered with black Velvet , kneeling by the side of a Table covered with a black Velvet Carpet , he laid his Hand upon the Table , and the Executioners at the same instant struck off both his Head and his Hand . In a few years after , it was recovered , by a notable surprise , acted by Count Swartzenburg , and Count Palfi , with a great slaughter of the Turks . I saw a part of the Gate , which was then broken by a Petard , the same being still kept for a Memorial , in a part of the Cathedral Church . While this place was in the Turks Possession , they made a Dungeon for Christian Prisoners , wherein there is no light , but what enters by a Grate upon the ground in the Market-place . But this is now seldom empty of Turks , begging the Charity of Passers-by , and selling neat Whips which they make in this their sad restraint .

He that would take a view of warlike Engines and Instruments , is not like to have better satisfaction any where , than at Rab and Komara , where he may take notice of one , called a morning Star , used by the Sentinels , and at an assault , defence of a breach , or entrance into a Town ; of earthen Pots to throw amongst the Enemies , filled with sticking and burning materials . There he may also see a Lehn Brad●r , or plank set with hooks , to be placed on the out-side of the works , covered lightly with earth ; whereby those , who storm are wounded , and intangled . A werf Kugel , or instrument filled with wild fire , and combustible matter , to be thrown by the hand , it sticketh fast and burneth . A Spannische Ritter or Cheval de Frise , to be laid in the way , to keep out the Horse ; divers sorts of Chain-shot , and the like .

General Montecuculi was the Governour of Raab , whose Pass I had the advantage of in the former year , to travel by these parts unto the Mine ▪ Towns . The Emperour being wearied with Chiauses , and ordinary Envoys , which so often came to Vienna from the Visior of Buda , and expected presents at their return ; hath taken order , that , without especial Licence , they shall come no further than Raab , but there receive their dispatches .

Komora , Gomora , Crumenum or Comaronium , a large and strong Town at the East-end of the Island of Schut , looking over the Danube and Waag , strongly fortified , and well mann'd . Colonel Hoffkircher was then Governour : the strongest place is the Tortoise Fort ; so called , from some resemblance it hath to a Tortoise . This Town , after the taking of Raab , was besieged by Sinan Bassa , with sixty Ships , and a great number of Turks and Tartars ; but in vain , and to the great slaughter of the Tartars . Although the Bassa omitted nothing towards the gaining it , but employed treachery as well as force , and under colour of a Parley , sent five Turks to the Governour , Baron Brown , who had then received a great wound upon his right Knee , to try if he could by any means be wrought upon to deliver up the City . And the Governour gave them the hearing ▪ till they had declared their whole treachery ; but then presently commanded four of their Heads to be struck off , and to be set upon long Pikes upon one of the Bulwarks , for the Bassa to look upon ; and sent the Fifth back to the Bassa to tell him that although he found one in Rab to serve his turn he was much deceived , if in him he thought to find Count Hardeck , and to assure him that he would never betray a City committed to his charge , but rather wished to dye the Emperors true and faithful Servant imbrewed in the Blood of the Turks .

In the inward Castle I observed three old Tombs , which had been formerly brought thither from Sene or Senia , a place of Antiquity , not farr off . Some in the Castle observing me to write out their Inscriptions , were very inquisitive , and obliged me to leave a copy of them in the Castle ; and if , upon after-consideration , I should find them to be of importance , required a promise of me , to send them an account thereof : The Inscriptions were these .

On one of them MEMORIAE JVLIAE EMERITAE QVAE VIXI TAN VALERIAM ASCLENIA FILIAE PIISSIME And on the Cover D. M.

The Inscription upon another was this , MVALVALERIANI'LEGIIIIFLVIXITAN XLIIETMVALVLPIOEQPVBL'FILVIXIT ANVIIISIMCONDITISVLPIAPARATIANE MARITOETVLPIAVALERIAFILIA REDESTS . D. M.

And on the top or Cover , this following ,

ΙΤΑΛΜΥΡΙΕΥΨΥΧΕΙΜΕΤΑΤΙΑΤΡΟΣ .

The third Tomb was of the same Figure , but without any Inscription . I could not omit to set down these , because they are not to be met with in that great Volume of Inscriptions of Gruter .

Gomora hath been of late more strongly fortified , and a greater compass of ground is taken in , by a line drawn from the Waag to the Danube , and fortified with four new Bastions .

Of some other places , near unto these already named , and whereof I took notice the year before , I shall make but short mention ; as particularly of Newhewsell , by the Hungarians called Vywar , seated by the River Neutra , not far from Nitria , a strong place , and Bishops See , taken by Count de Souches in the last wars . Newhausl is a strong Hold , regularly fortified with six large Bastions , which makes it lie in the form of a Star , it was surrendred after six storms unto the grand Visier ; who presently besieged it , after that Count Forchatz , the Governour , had rashly lost a great part of his men at the Battel of Barchan ; where the bones of the Slain lie yet in the Field . The Turkish Bassa lives in the Palace , which belonged to the Arch-bishop of Presburg , and has converted the Church into a Moschea . The Bassa growing too familiar with the neighbour Governour of Komara , was jealously looked on by the Grand Seignior , who sent one to take of his head , and put another into this Government . This place commands contribution from a good part of the Country between the River Waag and the Neutra , and between the Neutra and the River Gran : and in places , where we lodged in those parts , the Master of the house told us , he was obliged to give notice unto the Turks , who , and how many were in his house ; whereof we were not unwilling , resolving to be gone , before the account thereof could come unto them . If the Visier had not spent time about the siege of Newhewsell , but marched into Austria , when the Emperour was yet unprovided , the Auxiliary forces farr off , and Vienna , and all the Country about in great fear , he might have probably left sad effects in those parts ; but attempting some time after , to break into Austria by Saint Godard , when the Imperial forces were in readiness , and the great bodies of Auxiliaries of Germans and French came up , he was repulsed with great loss of his best Soldiers , and readily clapt up a peace , which kept these parts in quiet for many years .

Sene , Sone or Senia , a Village near the Danube , and remarkable place for variety of Antiquities , where , by the help of the Byro or Judge of the Town , I met with divers Coins , and some of Gold , some Intaglia's , and as they called it , a Heathen or R●man Key . Whereof I presented some unto Petrus Lambecias , who shewed them unto the Emperor . This place , being in the contribution Country to the Turks , hath been little enquired into ; and therefore the Antiquities thereof were the more welcome . Amongst all the Inscriptions of Gruter , I find but one or two of Senia . The People say , this place was formerly called Apollonia , but without any good ground .

Passing from Raab to Dotis , St. Martinsberg offers it self to view ; an handsome Town , and strong Hold , upon the top of a high Hill , overlooking all the Country . This is still in the Christians hands , though it hath formerly been taken by the Turks , once in Amurath the third's time .

Dotis , Tata , or Theodata , about twelve English miles from Gomora , where there is a Castle with a Ditch about it , and also some Natural Baths near it . It hath been often taken and retaken : Graff Zacki , a Noble Hungarian , was then Governor , whose singular Civilities I must always acknowledge ; and indeed in these parts , I was at best content in the company of Souldiers , for they commanded all , and were generous and free hearted Persons , and could commonly speak either Latine , High-Dutch ▪ or Italian ; my company was the more acceptable to them , because I had seen many parts of Europe before , which they would much enquire after .

But to return into the road again ; we parted from Comora , being towed by a Saick of twenty four oars . The Hungarians rowing upon one side , and the Germans on the other , they saluted the Fortress with two small Guns , which they carried at the head of the Saick , and so we passed by S●ne , Nesmil , Rodwan , and came to Motch , the exact place of the Frontiers . Here we expected a Turkish Convoy ; which coming betimes in the morning , we made ready for them ; their Officers went first on shoar , then our Veyda or Veyuod with the Interpreter , and chiefest of the company , both parties walking slowly , and at meeting gave hands to one another , then we delivered our Boat unto the Turks , which they fastned to their Saick , and sent one i● to our Boat to steer it : and turning about , saluted the Christians with one Gun , and then with eighteen Oars rowed down the Danube , we carrying the Eagle in our Flag , they the Double Sword , Star , and Half-Moon .

The Turkish Saick convoyed us to Strigonium or Gran , and set our Boat on shoar in the Town , and so left us ; the Governor also took no notice of us , either in hopes of a present , or some private interest ; but an Aga , who came with four troops of Horse from Newhewsell , being come into the Castle , asked the Governor ( as we were informed by a Turk , that came unto us ) what he meaned to have so little care of his head , to deal with us after this manner ? who were not sent to him , or to a Bassa , or a Visier , but to the Sultan , and no doubt had a Present for him : whereupon we were soon dispatched .

This City of Gran , Strigonium or Ostrogon , is seated on the South-side of the Danube near the Confluence with the River Gran , divided into the upper and lower , and both walled ; the lower Wall doth well command the Danube . St. Thomas Hill , hard by the Town , is also walled , because it commandeth the Town : There are in this place Natural Baths of a moderate heat . This hath been the Metropolitan City of Hungary , where St. Stephen , the first Christian King of Hungary , was born ; and King Stephen the third buried .

Scarce any place has suffered more strong and notable Sieges ; besieged in vain by John , King of Hungary , taken by Solyman , recovered by Count Mansfelt for Matthias , the Arch-Duke ; besieged again in vain , but taken in the time of Sultan Achmet , by the mutinous baseness of the Christian Defendants , who shutting up Count Dampier , the Governor , delivered the place unto Aly-Beg the Turkish General ; but after many years it was taken again by the Christians under the Duke of Lorraine , in the year 1683. Over against Strigonium lieth Barchan ; between these two places there is a Bridge of Boats .

From Strigonium we passed to Vicegrade or Vizzegrade : The upper Castle of this place is seated upon a very high Rock , where the Crown of Hungary hath been formerly kept : the lower Castle hath been fair ; there is also a handsome Fabrick of square Stones , and Arches , the ruines whereof do still remain : this place was retaken from the Turks by the Forces of the Arch-Duke Matthias , in the time of Mahomet the Third , but betrayed , and delivered up by the Treachery of the Heyducks in the Reign of Sultan Achmet . Charles King of Naples , and sworn King of Hungary , was wounded on the head by Forchatz ; and being carried into the Castle , under pretence of laying a Plaster on his head , was strangled . This place yielded to the Duke of Lorraine , 1684.

Over against Vizzegrade lieth Maroz , where there is a large Church ; and the place having voluntarily submitted unto the Turks , the Christians paying a small Tribute , lived under no great oppression . Below this Town , the Danube divides , and makes a fair large Island , called St. Andrews Island , still rowing down , by which we passed by Virovichitz , a noted place for pleasant Vineyards and good Grapes , and an old ruine of Stone , upon the shoar of St. Andrews Isle , where the Turks told us , there was formerly a Stone Bridge , we came to Vacia , in former times a Bishop See , which hath now two Mosches , and one Christian Church without the Wall . This place was seized upon , sacked and burnt by the Turks , 1541. but taken by the Emperors Forces , under the Command of the Duke of Lorraine , in the Year 1684. after he had overthrown the Turks in Battel near the Town , but was quitted again at the latter end of the Autumn , there being a ridge of Hills near it which over-look the Town , and render it not easie to be defended .

Here we changed our Convoy again , and passed unto Buda , the Capital City , and Royal Seat of the Kings of Hungaria , and the residence of a Turkish Visier , who hath divers Bassa's under him . It is a large City , and of a pleasant situation ; devided into the upper and lower Town , wherein are some ruines , and reliques of Magnificent Structures , rais'd by the Hungarian Kings , especially Matthias Corvinus , whose Palace the Visier possessed . But much abating of its ancient glory . There are also some fair Mosches , Caravansara's , and very Magnificent Baths . There is also a high Hill called St. Gerard's Mount , which hath a Fort on the top , and over-looks the Town and Country .

The natural Baths of Buda are esteemed the noblest of Europe , not only in respect of the large and hot Springs , but the Magnificence of their Buildings . For the Turks bathe very much , and though little curious in most of their private houses , yet are they very sumptuous in their publick Buildings , as their Chars or Caravansara's , Mosches , Bridges , and Baths declare .

There are eight Baths , whereof I had opportunity to take notice during my stay at Buda , three toward the East and South-East part of the City , in the way leading towards Constantinople , and five towards the West end of the Town , in the way towards old offen , and Strigonium .

The first is a large open Bath at the foot of a high rocky Hill , called Purgatory , whereof the People have some odd and scrupulous Apprehensions .

The second is covered with a Cupola , and stands nigh the same Hill , but more into the Town , and near a place where they use Tanning .

The third is called the Bath of the green Pillars , though at present they be of a red colour , it stands over against a Caravansara . The Water is hot but tolerable without the Addition of cold water , it is impregnated with a petrefiing Juyce , which discovers it self on the sides of the Bath , upon the Spouts , and other places , and makes a grey Stone : The Exhalation from the Bath reverberated by the Cupola , by the Irons extended from one Column to another , and by the Capitals of the Pillars forms long Stones like Isicles , which hang to all these places .

The Water is let out at night , when the Women have done bathing , who often stay late . The Bath is round , set about with large Pillars supporting a Cupola , which hath openings to let out the Steam , and yet the whole Room continues to be a hot Stove .

The Baths of the West end of the Town are first , Tactelli , or the Bath of the Table , a small Bath covered : the Water white , and of a Sulphureous smell ; they drink of this as well as bathe in it ; what they drink they receive from a Spout , bringing the Water into this place . I delivered a five-Sols piece to a Turk , who was bathing in it , to gild for me , which he did in half a Minute , by rubbing it between his fingers , while the hot Water fell from the Spout upon it .

The second is Barat Degrimene , or the Bath of the Powder-Mill , it rises in an open Pond near the High-way , and mixes with the fresh Springs , which makes the Pond of a whitish colour in one part , and clear in the other ; as also cold and hot in several parts . This conveyed cross the High-way into a Powder Mill , becomes useful in making of Gun-powder .

The third is cuzzoculege , the little Bath , or the Bath of the Saint , for which name the Turks give a superstitious reason : It is kept by Turkish Monks . The Bath where the Springs arise , is so hot as scarce to be endured ; but being let out into another bathing place at some distance , it becomes tolerable and fit for use . This Water hath neither colour , smell , nor taste different from common Water , and deposeth no sediment , only the sides of the Bath are green , and have a fungous substance all over .

The fourth is Caplia , a very noble Bath , but part of the Buildings was consumed this year , 1669. by a great Fire that happened in Buda , but is since repaired by the Turks . The Water is very hot , not without a petrefying Juyce in it . The Building about is eight square , with a noble Bath in the middle , with a Circle of a Trench of Water about it for the better Ornament , to bathe the feet in ; on every side it hath a Niche , wherein is a Fountain ; in the middle of the Anti-Chamber , where they leave their Cloths , there is also a fair Stone Bason and a Fountain .

The fifth is the Bath of Velibey , which hath a strong sulphureous smell ; and a petrefying Juyce in it , and is so hot , that to make it tolerable it requires the addition of cold Water ; this is the noblest of all . The Anti-Chamber is ve y large , the Bath-Room capacious , and high-Arched , adorned with five Cupola's ; one a very fair one over the great round Bath in the middle ; and one lesser over each of the four corners , where are either Baths , or Bath-stoves for private use : in these the Turks take off the hair of their Bodies by a Psilothrum mixt with Soap : it being not their Custom to have any hair , except their Beards . Twelve Pillars support the great Cupola , between eight whereof are Fountains of hot Water , and between the others are places to sit down , where the Barbers and Bath-men attend ; and each of these places has two Cisterns of Free-stone , into which are let in hot Bath-water , and also cold Water , to be mixed and tempered as every one pleaseth .

Men bathe in the Morning , and Women in the Afternoon . When any man intends to bathe , having entred the first Rooms , he finds there divers Servants attending , who furnish him with a Cloth and Apron . Then he puts off his Cloths and having put on the Apron , he enters the second Room , wherein is the great Bath , and sits on the side of the Bath , or between the Pillars near a Fountain , where the Barber strongly rubs him with his hand opened , stretching out his Armes , and lifting them up ; after which the Party bathes . Then if he be a Subject of the grand Seignior's , or it be the Custom of his Country , he hath his head shaved , and if a young man , his beard , except the upper Lip ; next the Barber rubs his Breast , Back , Armes , and Legs , with an hair Cloth , while he either sitteth , or lieth with his face downward , then washes his head with Soap , and after throws cold Water upon him , all over his Body , and then he walks in the steam of the Bath for a time .

The Germans call this City Offen , and some will have it founded by Buda , the Brother of Attila , the Famous King of the Hunnes . And to speak the truth among all the numerous Countries , and Places Conquered by that Warlike Nation , they could not choose out indeed a nobler Seat to build a City in , where , besides the advantage of their natural Baths and Stoves , this being placed upon the Banks of the greatest River in Europe , where it runs in one entire Stream , and the City rising up by degrees to the top of Hills , affording from most Streets of the Town , a Prospect of twenty Miles or more , on the other side of the Danube , as far as ones eye can reach , with the view of Pest , and the long Bridge of Boats , and the beautiful fruitful Country about it , renders it most exquisitely pleasant and delightful , and was the Royal Seat of the Hungarian Kings and Queens , till that Solyman the Magnificent , entered it with his Sons Selimus and Bajazet , on the Thirteenth of ●ugust , in the Year One Thousand Five Hundred Forty One , and made a Decree that Buda should be from that day kept by a Garrison of Turks , and the Kingdom converted into a Province of the Turkish Empire and the Queen and her young Son , be sent into the Country of Lippa , beyond the River Tibiscus , at a little distance from Buda or Offen : there is another Place called old Offen , conceived to be Sicambria of old , where the Sicambrian Souldiers quartered , in the time of the Romans : and some Antiquities and Inscriptions have been taken notice of in that place .

Over against Buda , upon the Eastern-shoar of Danubius , stands the City Pest , being Quadrangular and seated upon a Plain : and by ●eason of its Wall , and the Towers of the Mosches ; makes a handsom show from Buda . It gives the name unto the County or Comitatus Pesthiensis : Hungaria being divided into Counties , like England ; between this place and Buda , the handsom Bridge of Boats , is above half a Mile long .

The habit of the Turkish Women seemed new and strange to me : Breeches almost to their feet , a kind of Smock over them , and then a long Gown with their Head-dress , which fetches about , covering their face , except their eyes , and makes them look like Penitents : but it was not unpleasant unto me , as taking away the occasion of Pride and Folly : though otherwise it can have no good grace in a stranger's fancy .

During our Stay at Buda , we went into a Turkish Convent , where the Prior or Superior called Julpapa , or Father of the Rose , with some of his Brethren brought us into a large Room like a Chappel , and entertained us with Melons and Fruit : at parting , we gratified them with some pieces of Silver , which were kindly accepted . The Julpapa had his Girdle or Ceinture embossed before with a whitish Stone , bigger than the palm of my hand , which was Galactites or Milk-stone ; whereof they have a great opinion , because in their belief , Mahomet turned a whole River in Arabia into this kind of Stone .

We lodged at an old Rascians house , where we were well accommodated ; having from it a fair Prospect over the Danube , the long Bridge and Pest , and a good part of the Country . Divers Turks and some Chiauses resorted unto us , where they were treated to their content . The Master of the House was thought to hold secret correspondence with a Franciscan Friar of Pest , and to give intelligence of Occurrences unto the Ministers of State at Gomora , Rab , and Vienna ; he prevailed with me to pen a Letter in Latin and Italian ; wherein I was not unwilling to gratisie him , because it contained nothing , besides an account of some Prisoners , and the encroachment of the Armenian Merchants upon the Trade .

As we were riding in the City , divers of the common Turks murmured , that we should ride , where they went on foot . But I was pleased to see many Turks to salute Seiginor Gabriel , the Emperors Courrier , in our Company , and to take his hand , and put it to their foreheads , but was much more delighted with the courteous entertainment of Mortizan Ephendi , a person of note , and who had been an Envoy extraordinary at Vienna . He received us in an handsom large Room , and treated us with great kindness ; saying , that he desired our company , not to any Feast , but to a Treat of Affection and Respect ; such as might declare , that we had conversed like friends , and eat and drunk together ; he called for a stool , that I might sit down , it being then uneasie to me to sit cross-legged , and asked me , whether I would learn the Turkish Language , or whether I would go to the Port , and how I liked Buda , and among other questions , asked , what was the King of Poland's name ? and when I told him , Michael Wisnowitski ; his reply was s mewhat strange unto me ; saying , Michael , that 's a good name , that 's the name of the greatest Saint in Heaven , except Mary ; and so having entertained us , he dismissed us with good wishes . At our return to this place , after two days stay , the Governor sent us with four and twenty Horse Souldiers into Christendom again , these guarded us with great care , a day and a night , till they saw us safe at Dotis .

But now leaving Buda , we travelled by Land Eastward ; and passing by the ruines of the King of Hungary's Mint-house , by Ham Zabbi Palanka , and by Erzin , we came to Adom , in Turkish , Tzan Kurteran , or anima liberata , so named by Solyman the Magnificent ; because , in his hasty retreat from Vienna , he first made a quiet stop at this place , and there could think himself secure from any pursuit of the imperial Forces . This place was afterwards taken by Graff Palsi , from thence we came to Pentole or Pentolen Palanka . This or Adom is conceived to be the old Potentiana , where the Hunnes , invading those parts , fought a bloody Battel with the Romans , under the conduct of Macrinus and Tetricus , but were overthrown .

From hence to Fodwar , in sight of Colocza , seated on the other side of the Danube , in the road to Temeswar , formerly an Arch-Bishops See ; whereof Tomoreus was Bishop , whose rashness conferred much unto the loss of Hungary , at the Battel of Mohatz . Then by Pax or Paxi unto Tolna , formerly Altinum or Altinium , where the Hunnes being recruited , fought a second Battel , obtained the Victory , and expulsed the Romans , though not without the loss of forty thousand of their own men . This hath been a very great place , but burnt by the Christians . The Hungarians and Rascians , who inhabit here , living in no good agreement .

Thence to Jeni Palanka , where we passed the River Sarvizza , formerly Vrpanus , a handsom River , arising near Vesprinium , and passing Alba Regalis , or Stullweissenburg , the ancient place of Sepulture of the Hungarian Kings , which makes a triangle with Buda and Strigonium , and running into the Danube below . From thence by Setzwar to Botoseck , where we travelled by night , and had a Horse-guard of Spahies , till we came to Setz , a large Town ; where I observed the ruines of an old Castle , and a round Palesado upon the Hill .

Here is also a new Chan or Caravansara ; then to Mohatz . Before we came to this place ▪ we passed by a small Bridge over the Brook Curasse ; which , upon great rains , over-flows the Neighbour parts ; near which Ludovicus the unfortunate King of Hungary perished , being stifled in a muddy place , where his Horse plunged , after the Battel fought with the Forces of Solyman , on the other side of the Town . We went to see the place , where so noble a Prince lost his life , and an inconsiderate Battel lost the Crown of Hungary . This Battel was fought the 29th day of October , in the Year 1526. Cotriscus , who was near the King's Person when he was drowned , related the manner of it to the Hungarians , and shewed them the place where he fell in , from whence the King's Body was afterwards taken up entire , and carried to Alba Regalis , where with great Solemnity it was buried among the Sepulchres of the other Kings of Hungary , his Predecessors .

Hereabouts we met with a Caravan of two or three hundred Persons , some going to a place of Devotion , and having Janizaries with them , to guard them : others intending , by permission , to seat themselves in other parts of Hungary . And in divers places I met with numerous droves of Oxen , driven towards Vienna , upon the account of the Eastern Company of that City , who furnish that place and Country about , and are permitted to pass free by the Grand Seignior . This day we le●t Quinque Ecclesiae , and Zigeth on the right hand , this last is a strong place seated by the side of a Fenn , in which there is an Island , and beyond that a Castle . Count Sereni defended this Place against the Turks , with unparalleled Bravery , and when he had lost the Town , retired into the Island , and last of all into the Castle , and when there were but four and twenty of them left alive , they all Sallied out together , choosing rather to die every man , than to give Solyman the Magnificent , who besieged them , any pretence to the Town , by their Surrender ; and Solyman himself died likewise in the Camp , and hath a Sword hanging by his Tomb in Constantinople , as a peculiar honour to him , in regard that he did not only spend a great part of his life , but also died in War .

From hence by Barinowar Darda or Draza unto Esseck or Osseck , conceived to be old Mursa , or not far from it . It is seated low , and the Streets are planked with Trees . Upon one side of the Gate is part of a Roman Inscription . M. AELIAN , &c. on the other side , a Maids head in a Stone ; there is also a Dyal , which is not ordinary , brought from Serinwar ; and the greatest piece of Ordnance , which I saw in all those parts , not lying upon a Carriage , but upon Bodies of Trees . But that which is most remarkable here , is the well contrived Bridge of Wood , made partly over the River Dravus , and partly over the Fenns adjoyning , being five Miles long : being rayled , and having Towers at every quarter of a Mile : that part over the River Dravus , was burnt down by Count Nicolas Serini , in the last Wars , and another built since . He that beholds this Bridge , the Towers of Wood upon it , the strong rayles and floar , and the numerous supporters of it , cannot but wonder , how they should be supplied with Wood to build it , or maintain it . But hereof I speak elsewhere , this is the greatest Passage in Hungary , from Servia , and the Turkish Dominions . Had this been well defended , when Solyman invaded Hungary , he had not probably obtained so easie a March unto Buda . And to hinder the Supply of the Grand Visiers Army from other parts of Turky , Count S rini burned down that part , which was built over the Dravus ; and in his return burnt Quinque Ecclesiae or the City of five Churches , which lieth Westward from Esseck .

From thence we came to Valcovar , where there is a handsom wooden Bride over the River Walpo or Valpanus , plentiful of Fish ; and upon which , to the Westward , stands the Town of Walpo , taken by the Turks in the Year 1545. by the Treachery of the Dependants , after that it held out three M●nths under the Command of Perennus's Lady and Friends , and the Garrison was notwithstanding put to the Sword . Then by Sotzin Palanka , and Towarnick or Tabornick , to Metrouitza a large Town , and a great place for a Fair , strengthned by the adjacent Lake . So to Simonovitz , leaving at a good distance on the right hand the famous old Sirmium , now an inconsiderable place , whereof I have also said somewhat elsewhere . They call this Country Schremnia ; and that , more near the Dravus , Bossega .

In this Country many Families , and the Inhabitants of divers little Towns , live all under ground . I had formerly read of Troglodytes and subterraneous Nations , about Aegypt ; but I was much surprized to see the like in this place , and could not but say unto my self :

Now I believe the Troglodytes of old , Whereof Herodotus and Strabo told ; Since every wh●re , about these parts , in holes , Cunicular men I find , and humane Moles .

Near these Habitations are Wells , to supply them with Water ; which they draw up , like Dyers and Brewers : and Dogs come out upon Strangers . As we travelled by them , the poor Christians would betake themselves to their holes , like Conies . So that to satisfie our curiosities , we were fain to alight , and enter their houses , which we found better than we expected , divided into partitions , with Wooden Chimneys , and a Window at the farther end , a little above the ground : and all things as neatly disposed , as in other poor houses a●ove ground ; although but meanly , after the fashion of those parts . Their Speech is a Dialect of the Schlavonian . Then travelling on between the Danubius and the Savus , we came to Zemlin upon the Danul e ; from whence we had a fair Prospect of Belgrade , into the Castle of Zemlin , Stephen , the usurping King , retired , and died . From hence we passed by Water unto Belgrade . Belgrade , Taurunum , Alba Graeca , Greek-Weissenburg , or Nandor Alba , as the Hungarians call it , it is a large , strong , populous , and great Trading City , in Servia , or Moesia Superior , seated at the Confluence of the River Savus , and Danubius : having the first on the West , the other on the North. The Danubius is here very broad , runs ●uriously , and seems to cut off the Savus , as the Rhosne doth the Soane , by Lyon in France .

The Water of the Danube seems more white and yellow , troubled , and more confused . Turbidus & volvens flaventeis Ister arenas . That of the Savus , darker , greenish and clear ; at the entrance of the Savus , there is an Island , on which there is now much Wood , although it be not older than five and thirty years ; about which time , since the silt of both streams so s●ttled , as to appear first above Water .

Arriving at Belgrade , I passed by the Water Castle ▪ and afterwards by the upper Castle , both large , and having many Towers ; The Streets , where the greatest Trade is driven , are covered over with Wood , as in divers other Trading Places ; so that they are not offended with the Sun , or Rain . They consist commonly of Shops which are but small ; and no other , than a Taylors Shop-board , placed low ; upon which , after the same manner , the Shop-keeper sits , and selleth his wares to his Chapman without , few or none entring in . I saw also two large places built of stone , like unto the Exchange with two rows of Pillars over one another ; but they were so full of Merchants Goods , that they lost much of their beauty . There are also two large Bezestens , or places , where the richest Commodities are sold . They are built in the form of a Cathedral Church , and within are like to the old Exchange , above stairs . The Grand Visier hath built a noble Caravansara in this City , with a Fountain in the Court , and near unto it a Moschea , with a Fountain before it : which was the first Moschea , which I had the opportunity to see within-side . He hath also built a Metreseck or College for Students , I saw a Stu●ent habited in green , and wearing a Turbant with four Corners , different from others , which is a peculiar distinction . Although near to most Towns there be Sepulchres to be seen , yet I observed them to be most numerous at Belgrade , as being very populous , and the Plague having been lately in it .

We lodged at an Armenian Merchant's house , where we were handsomly accommodated . And we visited divers others , who had built them fair houses ; one , in which there was a Fountain and handsom Bath , and Stoves , where we wanted not Coffee , Sherbet , and excellent Wines ; such as the Neighbour Country affords . These Armenians are dispersed into all Trading Places , and have a Church here at Belgrade , and seem to be more plain dealing , and reasonable men to buy any thing of than either Jews or Greeks .

The Countries about have a great Trade unto this place : the Raguseans Trade here , and the Eastern Merchants of Vienna have a Factory in this City . And surely Belgrade is as well seated for Trade , as any in-land place in Europe , for being situated upon the Confluence of the Danubius , and the Savus , having the great River Tibiscus running into the Danule near it ; the Dravus not very far from it , and the River Morava not far below it ; the Danube also flowing forward unto the Euxine Sea , it may hold no uneasie Commerce with many remote parts . And Servia being a fruitful and pleasant Country consisting of Plains , Woods , and Hills , which might afford good Metals , not without stout Men , good Horses , Wines and Rivers , if it were in the Christians hands of the temper of those in the Western part of Europe , it might make a very flourishing Country .

This place hath formerly been the Bulwark of Hungary , in vain besieged by Amurath the second , and again by Mahomet the Great , who was repulsed by the valour of Hunniades , and the Auxiliaries , raised by Friar Capiftranus : when Hunniades issuing forth , and encamping out of the City , beat away the Turkish Forces with great slaughter : where Mahomet himself was wounded in the breast , lost his Ordnance , and two hundred Ships were overthrown , by a Fleet , which came from Buda ; but , being unprovided , it was since taken by Solyman the Magnificent , in the second Year of his Reign , in the Year of our Lord 1521. and in no likelihood to be recovered .

Leaving Belgrade , we proceeded in Servia , and passed by a very high Hill , called Havilleck , on the South or right hand , where are still the ruines of an old Monastery , and came unto Hissargick , nigh the Danube ; which , in Maps , is commonly placed too far from it . Here we took leave of that noble River , which by this time hath run a long course ; and from Vlme , in Schwabenlandt , where it begins to be navigable , about nine hundred Miles : but more from its first source and orignal ; and hath a long space yet to run , before it enters the Euxine . Next to Collar , not far from Samandria , an old habitation and Roman Colony , but now a place of no great remark . It fell into the hands of the Turks in the time of Amurath the first , and was given to the Christians again by his Son Sultan Bajazet , for Lazarus Despot of Servia being slain in Battel , left a mournful Widow . Stephen his Eldest Son , and a fair Daughter , and their Family being then in great distress , they sent Ambassadors to Sultan Bajazet , with rich Presents and great Offers which pleased him well , but above all he was marvellously taken with the incomparable beauty of the fair Despoina , at the same time presented to him by her Mother the Despotin , who had formerly promised her to him , upon which he not only granted them peace for the present , but in return thereof bestowed upon them the pleasant City of Semandria . The beautiful Despoina after this when Bajazet was overthrown , and shut up in an Iron Cage , was suddenly taken Prisoner in the City of Prusa in Asia Minor by Axalla , one of the Generals to Tamerlane , and carried far away , into the Eastern Parts of the World , but however it came to pass She was afterwards brought back again , and now lies buried by the Tomb of Sultan Bajazet at Brusia : From hence to Hassan Bassa Palanka , about forty English miles from Belgrade : perhaps so called from Hassan Bassa a famous Turkish General . Here I could not but take notice of an handsome Antiquity in Stone , of a Lyon worrying a Wolf .

From thence to Baditzna , where the Womens dress began to change , and was somewhat odd unto me . They wear a kind of Canopy on their heads ; which is set about , as also their foreheads , with all sorts of mony , which they can get of Strangers . We left some small pieces among them , to add unto that curiosity : in this kind of Ornament I have seen some Graecian Women very rich , and somewhat after this fashion , but their head-dress not raised so high , having their foreheads covered with Ducats of Gold , and Pearl .

A Bulgarian Woman

We passed on to Jagodna , pleasantly seated , and in a fair Country , whence setting forwards , after a few hours we turned Southward , and soon after , upon the side of an Hill , upon the right hand , I saw the Tomb of a Turkish Saint , about four yards long , and a square covered place by it : here our Chiaus alighted , and performed his devotions in prayer , then we travelled on , through great Woods , dangerous for Wolves and Thieves , by Chifflick , where there is a Caravansarah , but not always safe : so as we refreshed our selves in a large Farm-house , not far from thence , belonging to a rich Wine-Merchant of Belgrade . From hence we travelled by Night to the noted River Morava or Moschius , the chief River of this Country ; which arising above in the Mountains in two streams , the one named Morava di Bulgaria , the other Morava di Servia , after uniting , runs into the Danube , at Zenderin or Singidunum , opposite to the Rascian shoar : we passed this River at a place which was broad , somewhat deep , and rapid , and therefore not without some fear , and the continued loud prayer of the Chiaus in Turkish , and of the Couriers Ora pro nobis . This passage put me in mind of the swist River Varus , in the Confines of Provence and Italy , which I passed on Horse-back , with two men going by me , on the lower side shoving up my Horse lest the current should bear him down . By this River Morava , the commodities of Servia , and part of Bulgaria , are brought into the Danube , and so dispersed ; and up the current of the same River are brought Salt and other commodities , from Hungary , Austria , and the neighbour Countreys . Not far from this River , was that great slaughter of the Turks by Hunniades ; who , with ten thousand Horse , set upon the Turkish Camp by Moon-light , slew thirty thousand , and took four thousand Prisoners , victoriously returning unto his Camp . Where he left Vladislaus and George Despot of Servia . We arrived at length at Halli Jahisar , or Crushovatz in Bulgarian ; a considerable place , where there is an handsom Church , with two fair Towers . Then travelling the whole day through Hills and Woods , we came to Procupie , which some will have to be Villa Procopiana , in Turkish called Vrchup . Here we stayed till the next day , being lodged in a Ragusean Merchants house , where we were well entertained . The Priest , being of the Roman Church , spake Latine , which is a Language not ordinary in these parts ; and enquiring of me after Latine Books , I presented him with one , called Manuductio ad coelum , which he kindly accepted , and gave me a wrought-coloured Handkerchief , and some little things of those parts . They had also a Physician , who had some knowledge of Simples and ordinary Compositions . His manner was to go into the Market-place every morning , and invite all persons , who stood in need of his assistance , to resort unto him .

From hence we came to Lescoa , or Lescovia , where I could observe little , besides a large Tower , which seemed to be ancient , but without Inscription . We passed much of our time at a great Fair , which happened to be at that time kept in a large enclosed place , with great resort of People ; where I thought it seasonable , to present the Chiaus with a Feather ; he having lost his the day before , and we found some want thereof , for hereby we travelled with more Authority through all places . This Town is seated upon the remarkable River Lyperitza , which may well be called the Maeander of Maesia ; for it runs ●o winding and crankling between the Hills , that in the space of less than twelve hours , we passed it ninety times . This called to my mind the River Taro in Italy , which , parting from the Dominions of Parma , I passed forty times , before I came to Fornovo .

The next day we travelled over the Mountain Clissura , one of the Spurs or Excursions of Mount Haemus . We were much surprised at the gallant appearance thereof , for the Rocks and Stones of this Mountain shine like Silver , and by the light of Sun and Moon , ( for I passed it once by day and another time by night ) afforded a pleasant glittering show , as consisting of Muscovia glass , whereof I brought some home with me . This Mountain surely cannot be much unlike that mentioned by Olearius in his Travels into Persia , between Permeras and Scamachia , where he relates that he saw a Mountain of Lapis Specularis , which when the Sun shined upon it , looked like a heap of Diamonds . We descended in a narrow rocky way by the strong Castle of Kolombotz , or Golobotz , and came unto Vrania , seated at the bottom of the Mountain Clissura , this is a strong Pass , which the Castle commands , and locks up the passage .

The Hills between Servia and Macedonia , are a part of Mount Haemus ; which , under several names , is thought to extend from the Adriatick to the Euxine Sea ; admitting of several passages , which Philip , King of Macedon took a special care to shut up against the Neighbouring Nations . Which when he had done , he thought himself secure : and that from thence no Enemies could come at him , except they dropped out of the Clouds . Some have thought , that from the middle Peaks of Haemus a man might see both the Euxine and Adriatick Seas ; and King Philip made tryal of it : but we find not , that he satisfied his curiosity therein ; nor do I think any hath done it . Being upon high Mountains , and more inclining to the Adriatick Sea , I viewed all about ; but found , that the high Albanian Hills did cut off all long Prospect .

From Vrania we passed to Comonava , near which there is still a Greek Monastery , upon the side of the Hills . From thence to Kaplanlih or Tigres Town ; but why so called , I could not learn . Then to Kuprulih or Bridge-Town , where there is a considerable River named Ps●nia , and a good Bridge built over it . This Town was casually set on ●ire , while we were in it , and a great part of it burnt down ; the fire encreasing much before we got out of it . Here we met with many persons , who brought the Tribute , and a Present of Hawks out of Wallachia unto the Grand Seignior , then residing at Larissa .

From hence , by Isbar , we came to Pyrlipe , first passing the high Mountains of Pyrlipe in Macedonia , which shine like Silver , as those of Clissura ; and , beside Moscovia Glass , may contain good Minerals in their bowels . The Rocks of this Mountain are the most craggy that I have seen ; and massy Stones lye upon stones , without any Earth about them , and upon a ridge of a Mountain , many Steeples high , stands the strong Castle of Marco Crollowitz , a man formerly famous in these Parts .

Then through a Plain Country we came to Monaster or Toli , a great Place , well peopled , and pleasantly Seated . Here the Sultana , who was great with Child at Larissa , was designed to be delivered ▪ and lye in . All accommodations being ordered to that purpose , where I afterwards heard she was delivered of a Daughter , who lived not long after . The Turks , who have a high opinion of Alexander the Great , would have been glad to have had a Son of the Empire born in Macedonia .

From hence to Filurina , and Eccisso Verbeni , where there are Acidulae of good esteem , the Springs large , and plentiful . Before we descended the Hill , which leads to this Town , we had a sight before us of the famous Mount Olympus , about Seventy miles off ; and on the left hand we saw the Lakes of Petriski , and Ostrova ; they have a Traditi●n , that one of these Lakes was made , by taking great stones out of the side of the Hills , whereby the Subterraneous water , finding vent , over-flowed the Neighbour Plaines .

We came afterwards to Egribugia , where we again left the Plains , and travelled over high rocky Hills to Sariggio●e . Whence passing through the River Injecora , we came to Sarvitza , a noted Place , built partly upon an Hill , and partly in the Plain . The Christians live most in the upper part , the Turks in the lower : there is also a Castle upon a very high Rock : not far from hence we went through a passage , cut through the Rocks , like to a great Gate , and a small River passing also through it , which makes a fast Pass , and commands the passage of this Country , which put me in mind of la Chiusa , in the Julian Alpes , between Vensone and Ponteva ; which passage the Venetians shut up every night , we took notice also in our Journey of the first Turkish Moschea , which was built in these parts , upon that place where the Turks first rested , after they had taken the strong Castle and Passage of Sarvitza . Here we also passed by a Hill of a fine red Earth , whereof they make Pots and Vessels , like those of Portugal Earth , which are of esteem all about these Parts . We proceeded over dangerous Rocks , in narrow hanging ways still on Horse-back ; although we had little pleasure to look down the Precipices on one hand , and see the Carkasses of Horses in some places , which had fallen down and broke their necks . Afterwards we had the Mount Olympus on our left hand , till we came to Alessone or Alesswn , a considerable place ; where there is a Greek Monastery , and Monks of the Order of St. Basil . The Monastery was of a different kind of building from any I had then seen . From hence passing over a River , we entered into a round Plain , of about five Miles over ; with divers Towns pleasantly seated in it . Then over an Hill again , which is a Spur of Mount Olympus ; upon the top whereof an old Man stood beating of a Drum , to give notice unto Passengers on both sides , that those parts were free from Thieves . From this Hill as we descended , we had a good Prospect of the Plains Pharibus . of Thessaly ; and at the foot of it we turned to the left , and passed over a River , which runs from under a rocky Mountain , not in small Springs , but the whole body of the River together ; and then through Vineyards , and Cotten Fields , to Tornovo , and from thence to Larissa , where the Ottoman Court resided : of which places we shall speak more hereafter .

In our return , we left the road , about Kaplanlih , and turned unto Skopia , a City of great Trade , and the largest in these parts . Scopia or Scupi of Ptolomy , named Vscopia by the Turks , is seated in the remotest parts of Maesia Superior , or the Confines of Macedonia , at the foot of Mount Orbelus , upon the River Vardar , or Axius , in a pleasant and plentiful Country , seated partly on Hills , and partly on Plains . It was first a Bishops , afterwards an Arch Bishops See ; still a pleasant and populous place . There are seven hundred Tanners in it , and they Tann in great long Troughs of Stone , and make excellent Leather , wherewith they furnish other parts . There are some handsom Sepulchral Monuments , and many fair Houses , as that of the Cadih , and that belonging to the Emir , or one of Mahomets Kindred , whose Father was of great esteem in these parts . In the Court-yard of the Emir's House , stands a remarkable and peculiarly contrived Fountain , in manner of a Castle , set round with many Towers , out of the tops whereof the Water springs forth . Their best Houses are furnished with rich Carpets to tread upon : and the Roofs divided into Triangles , Quadrangles , and other Figures fairly gilded , and painted with several Colours , but without any Imagery or Representation , either of Animal or Vegetable . Here is also a fair Bezestan , covered with Lead ; many Streets covered over with Wood ; and divers places are fair both within and without the Town , being set off by Trees and pleasant Hills and Dales .

There are a great number of Moschea's or Turkish Churches . The fairest is on a Hill , and hath a large Portico before it , supported by four Marble Pillars ; near which is a Tower of Wood with a Clock and a Bell in it ; from whence I had a good Prospect of the City . There is also an Arch , which seems to be Ancient , and a rivolet running under it . A large Stone also which seems to be part of a Pillar , with this Inscription SHANC . A little way out of the City , there is a noble Aqueduct of Stone , with about two hundred Arches , made from one Hill to another , over the lower ground or Valley between , which is a handsome Antiquity , and adds to the honour of this place . When Mahomet the First conquered this City , he placed a Colony of Asiaticks in it , which makes it the more Turkish . Great Actions have been performed hereabouts , in the time of the Romans , particularly by Regillianus ; as is testified by Trebellius Pollio , that he won so many Battles , and carried on such mighty things at Scupi , that he deserved a Triumph . Hereabouts also stood Paraecopolis , and Vlpianum .

The Sanziack of this Place is under the Begle●beg of Rumelia or Graecia . A Trade is driven from hence to Belgrade , and to Thessalonica or Salonichi , and many other places . I have been more particular concerning this City , because Geographers pass it over in a few words ; and I could never meet with any , who had been at it .

From hence we travelled to Catshanich , a Fortress that commands the passage b tween the Hills ; and afterwards advanced so far , as to enter the famous Plains of Cossova in Bulgaria ; which some take to be Campus Merulae , a Plain not very much exceeding Lincoln Heath , yet the Stage of great Actions . Here the greatest Christian Army , that was ever brought into the Field in Europe , consisting of five hundred thousand men , under Lazarus Despot of Servia , fought with the Forces of Amurah the first , and lost the day . In which Battle Lazarus was slain : and Amurah , viewing the dead bodies , was stabbed by Michael Cobilovitz , a Christian Souldier , left for dead in the Field . Amurah hath in these Plains a Memorial Monument unto this day ; and that part is called the Field of the Sepulchre : in the same Plains was also fought that remarkable Battle between Hunniades and Mahomet , for three days together ; where Hunniades , having very unequal Forces , was at last over-thrown .

We proceeded forward to Prestina , a good Town , and where we expected good accommodation ; but having entered into a fair Room , we found a man lying down in it sick of the Plague . So we consulted our safety , and stayed not long ; and having a Gypsie to our Guide , we travelled through a Country thinly inhabited , but fruitful and pleasant and were much refreshed with fair Cornelions , which grew plentifully in the ways : we passed also by an hot Bath , a little on the right hand . The Bath is an arched Room well built , and very refreshing unto Travellers . It hath a red Sediment , and is impregnated with a succus lapidescens , and makes a gray Stone . It is within two hours going of Bellacherqua or Cursumnè , where I observed a Convent and an old Church with two handsom Towers : From whence passing over the Hill Jasnebatz , we came to Eshelleck between the two Morava's , and so by a Castle upon a Hill , near unto which is a noted Convent , wherein is kept the body of Kenez Lazarus , and the body of St. Romanus , and so proceeded . But I must not forget to say something of Larissa .

THE DESCRIPTION OF LARISSA AND THESSALY .

LARISSA is the chief City of Thessaly , seated by the River Peneus , the chief River of that Country . Upon the North it hath the Famous Mountain Olympus , and on the South a Plain Country . It is now inhabited by Christians , Turks and Jews ; hath fair Bezestens , divers Turkish Moschea's , and Christian Churches in it . It is pleasantly seated , and upon a rising ground : on the upper part whereof stands the Palace of the Grand Seignior , which he hath made use of during his residence in this place : it is contrived with jetting large Windows , on four sides , near which he took his repast , and pass-time , according as the Wind served , or afforded the best ventilation .

It is also an Arch-Bishop's See , having divers Suffragan Bishops under it . The Reverend Father Dionysius was then Arch-bishop . The Church of St. Achilleus is the Cathedral , where I heard Divine Service , the Arch-bishop being present , and standing in his Throne in his Episcopal habit , and his Crosier in his hand ; when three or four of us Strangers came into the Church , he sent one to fume us with Incense and ●weet Odours .

The Grand Seignior kept his Court in this place for some years , in order to his Affairs in Candia , and for the great convenience of Hunting and Hawking , wherein he exceedingly delights . When I came away , it was said , that he would go to Negroponte ; but he remained at Larissa some months after , until he removed to Saloni●hi , and afterwards to Adrianople .

The Greeks ( who are forward to magnifie the Concerns of their Country , ) speak highly of Mount Olympus : and Homer would have it to be the habitation of Jupiter and the Gods , and to be without Clouds ; but unto me some part of the Alpes seem much higher ; and I have seen Clouds above it ; and in September there appeared no Snow upon it , which the high Peaks in the Alpes , Pyrenaean and Carpathian Mountains , besides many others in Europe , are never without . And Olympus also was plentifully supplied with it upon the first Rain that fell in that Country ; it not being unknown to you , I suppose , that when it rains upon the Valleys , at the same time it snows upon high Mountains ; and this Hill I must confess to be visible at a great distance ; for I beheld it from Eccisso Verbeni in Macedonia , seventy miles from it ; and it consists not of one rising Peak , as it is sometimes described , but is also extended a great way in length , and makes good the Epithere of Homer , Longum tremere fecit Olympum . If the word be there taken , nor Ma●●●● ▪ only for high , but long .

This Hill chiefly extending from East to West makes the Inhabitants , at the foot of the North and South sides , to have a different temper of Air , as if they lived in Climes much distant ; which makes the expression of Lucan very Emphatical : Nec metuens imi Borean habitator Olympi , Lucentem tot is ignorat noctibus Arcton : Paulus Aemylius , the Roman Consul , winding about this Hill , by the Sea-side , overcame King Perseus , and so conquered Macedonia . When King Antiochus besieged Larissa , Appius Claudius raised the Siege , by Livy . great fires , made upon part of Mount Olympus ; the King apprehending thereby , that the whole force of the Romans were coming upon him . But the Exploit of the Consul Martius upon this Hill was most remarkable , and unparallel'd by any since ; who being sent against King Philip , the last of that Name , brought his Souldiers over Olympus , by passages Lib. 5. unknown , and such difficult ways , that his men were fain to wallow , cap. 7. and make hard shift down ; and his Elephants , by strange contrived Engines , somewhat like draw-Bridges , one under another , were let down into the Plains ; as Sir Walter Rawleigh hath more largely described the same .

And as the Grand Seignior hath honoured Larissa by a long aboad in Pdolybius . it ; so King Philip of Macedon , the last of that Name , did the like : for we find he passed the Summer at Larissa , the same Year , when Hannibal took Saguntus in Spain . Whether Xerxes were here , when his great Army passed through Thessaly towards Thermopylae , Histories do not declare . But King Philip , Father unto Alexander the Great , after he had quieted the Illyrians , and Pannonians , bent his mind upon Greece ; in order whereto he took the City Larissa upon the River Peneus , and thereby got so good footing in Thessaly , that he made great use of the Thessalians , in the following Wars with Greece .

Before the Battle of Pharsabia , as Caesar delivers , Scipio lay with a Legion in this City ; and this was the first place , unto which Pompey retired , after his Overthrow ; according to that of Lucan . Vidit prima tuae testis Larissa ruinae . Nobile , nec victum fatis caput .

And not staying there , he went along the River ; and taking Boar , went out to Sea , and was taken in by great Ship , then ready to weigh Anchor .

The River Peneus , which runs by Larissa , is the chiefest in Thessaly , and into which most of the other Rivers run ; arising from Mount Pindus ; and running into the Sinus Thermaicus , or Gulf of Salonichi , passing by the famous Valley of Tempe , and running between Mount Olympus and Ossa , into the Sea .

In that famous Expedition against the Graecians , Xerxes would have made his entrance by this way : for Herodotus delivers , that he failed from Thermae , now Salonichi , unto the mouth of the River Peneus ; to observe , if there were any passage , or any could be made , to enter into Thessaly ; and finding , upon enquiry , that the River had no other passage , and that it could not be turned : he said , That the Thessalians had done wisely to yield , and make their peace with him ; for , by stopping of the River Peneus , Thessaly might have been drowned .

〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉 I found the Epithete of Homer very agreeable unto this River , for it hath a clear stream and bottom , and the Fable of Apollo , and Daphne , the Daughter of Peneus , who was turned into a Bay-Tree , had a proper Scene in this place : for on the Banks of the River , Bay-trees grow plentifully unto this day .

There is an handsome Stone Bridge over this River , consisting of Nine Arches ; and peculiarly contrived with holes and passage in the solid parts between the Arches , to afford some passage unto the water , when it is high ; and hinder the bearing down of the Bridge , in high waters , and great floods .

The City being full , many Turks had their Tents in the Fields , by the River side , and lower Grounds , which being of various colours , and not far from a large Moschea , and the City , afforded a pleasant Prospect . The Sails of their Tents were so ordered , that they came not within a yard of the ground : so that the Air might freely enter into them ; where they commonly remained passing a great part of the day in Drinking Sherbet and Coffee .

The nearest considerable Port unto Larissa , is that of Vollo , or old Pagasa , in the Sinus Pagaficus , or Demetriacus , or Gulf of Armiro : not far from whence stood old Argos Pelasgicum ; from which place the Argonauts first set sail , in that famous Voyage for Colchos , by which way the Grand Seignior received intelligence from Candia , and his Asian and African Dominions . And not far from hence , at the Promontory Septas , there happened the greatest Shipwrack we read of ; when Xerxes lost five hundred Sail by a Tempest from an East-wind .

It was no hard matter to have a sight of the Grand Seignior , at this place ; for he rode out often , for his recreation of hunting and hawking , with great number of Attendants , and Huntsmen , and Falconers , in their proper habits : and also went frequently to the great Mosched . I had a full view of him , as he came out of his Palace , to go unto his devotion . Before he came out , divers brave Horses richly caparisoned , were mounted by divers of his Attendants , nobly attired , and rode about the Court-yard ; so that he looking out of the window , made choice of which he liked best , and would then make use of .

At his first appearance abroad , great acclamations were made , low bowings from all , both near and at a distance ; the Streets were made clean , and a Jan●ary was placed at every corner , to provide , that there might be no hinderance in the way . The Chiauses rode before , the Shatters , or great Courtiers , about Twenty four followed on foot ; and immediately , on each side of his Horse , walked two chief Janizaries , with white Feathers , set in an hollow Pipe before their Caps , very large , and spread , and about a fathom high ; which shaking as they walked , were high enough , both to shade and fan his face as he rode . Many brave Horses were led after him , and divers persons followed , carrying Cushions and Pillows to the Mofchea . Before he came our of his Palace , I observed many gallant Persons in the Porch , which the Chiaus , who walked with me , told me , were persons of the greatest quality in Turky .

The Grand Seignior was then under Thirty years of age , well set , somewhat short necked , inclining to fatness , his complexion fallow naturally , and much heightned by frequent riding about in those hot Countrys . He hath a very strong body , and healthful , and is a hard rider ; hath a stern look , and yet would speak kindly unto persons , and encourage the people abroad to approach him , taking no delight in the cryes , and frights , and flying away of the Inhabitains at the sight of him , or any of his Officers . The Grand Visier carried divers Christian Chyrurgeons with him to Candia , but I heard of no Physician of Note about the Grand Seignior . The Sultan took great liking to a private Turkish Priest , whom he met withal by chance in Thessaly , and made him his Chaplain ; but the report was , that a famours Priest was coming to him .

Achmet , the Prime Visier , being absent , the Chaymacham , of Deputy Visier , dispatched all Affairs of State here , and had the best House in the City . The Emperour 's Refident had three Interpreters , who , upon all occasions , were made use of in Addresses unto him , and by whom we were informed of the most considerable Occurrencies ; they being civil persons , and good Linguists .

The Sultana was also at Larissa much beloved by the Sultan , by birth a Candiot , little of stature , somewhat marked with the Small Pox ; she was then with child , and was to go to lye-in at Monaster , a great and pleasant Town in Macedonia ; which being a place we were to pass , proved a great convenience unto us ; for , in order to her better Journey , the High-ways were plained , Hills made passable , with Broad-ways and Bridges over Rivers , to the great labour of the Inhabitants ; who notwithstanding were not unready , to make a Bridge for such great Ones to pass out of their Country ; for at the first approach of the Grand Seignior , a great number of the Greeks forsook their habitations , for fear of him and his Attendants , and left them unto the Turks ; but were recalled again by his command .

The Grand Seignior's Son was also with him there , about Six years old .

I went with Osman Chiaus to see the Chaymacham's house , but especially to hear his Musick , which was accounted the best in Turky . Where I heard the loudest , yet not unpleasant Musick , I ever met with ; ten men at once playing in an open high Room upon large Wind-Instruments , which they miss not to do at certain hours of the day .

In the Town I also heard some Turkish Songs , but especially concerning Sabata Sevi , the famous Jewish Impostor , who had made a great noise in the World , and how Cussum Basha so handled him , that he was glad to turn Turk . This Cussum Basha , is a person much honoured by the Turks , and cryed up for his great Skill and Practice in Physick ; an Art not much known amongst them . He is now Visier of Erzrum in Asia ; is married to one of the Grand Seignior's Sisters , and lives with her ; and was formerly Visier of Buda , and upon that account well known to the Germans . Here I met also with a French Book , concerning Michael Cigala , another Impostor , who had deceived the Emperour , and the King of France , and other Christian Princes . Which , the Interpreter to the Resident told me , the Turks very much laughed at ; and that he was a Graecian born , and not a Wallachian . Of Paddre Ottomanno , who was thought to be the Grand Seignior's Brother , now a Dominican Frier , and whom I had seen at Turino , I could hear nothing .

There were many Thousand Souldiers , and Horses , in and about the City , and Five thousand Camels for the Service of the Grand Seignior , which being of different magnitudes , ages , and the bunches on their backs of different shapes , and in some variety of colours , and treading soft , and with little noise , afforded me a pleasant sight , when they were led by my lodging to watering at the River .

When we read , that Mardonius , the Persian General of the great Army Sir Walter Rawleigh . of Xerxes , wintered in Thessaly ; It is no small Testimony of the fruitfulness of that Country ; and though the number of men was here very great at this time , yet was there no want of provision , but all very cheap ; in a Victualling house , I could Dine with roast and boyled , and Sherbet , for the value of Six pence , and at an easie rate could oblige Turks and Christians with a meal , which they would take very kindly .

The Place was also extraordinary populous : there being at that time such a mixed multitude in it . Yet was the City in very good order , and quietness . An Officer with a Club in his Hand , accompanied with about twenty Persons , walking about the Streets , and punishing all Persons drunk , quarelling , clamorous , or acting any thing against good Manners .

When I was there in September 1669. it was very hot Weather , and many were sick of Fevers and Agues ; as they were at that time in most Parts of Europe , and at my return into England I found many languishing under Quartan Agues , who had been taken therewith about that time . They were then also in their Vintage , and we had the opportunity of tasting their Must and New Wine ; and the stricter Turks , who would not be tempted with Wine , would be much delighted , to take a little in the Must .

During the hot sweating Season , we went often to the Barber , who would handsomely perform his Work , and much to our refreshment ; trimming every Man according to the Fashion of his Country .

The Greeks have a place , of the bredth of a Dollar , lest bare upon the top of their Crowns ; and then let the Hair grow round it the bredth of two Fingers , more or less ; after which they shave all the rest of their Head , and wear it bare .

The Croatian , hath one side of his Head shorn , and the other side is neither shorn nor cut , but the Hair is let to grow as long as it will . The Hungarian shaves his whole Head , except his Fore-top . The Polander , wears his Hair short cut , so as it comes down to the middle of his Fore-head , and the middle of his Ear. The Turk shaves his whole Head , except a Lock upon his Crown . The Francks shave not their Heads , but wear their Hair long , as with us , only for the more amicable converse , and that nothing about them might be offensive to those , whom they live amongst , they often tuck it up under their Caps . The Greek Priests , also neither shave nor cut their Hair , but wear it as long as it will grow ; and many of them have thick heads of Hair ; but those , that have least , receive most refreshment here . The Party to be shaved , sits low ; and the Barber has the better advantage , to shave much at one stroke , he lays on very much Soap , and holds his Rasor as a Knife , and in a few strokes finishes his Work . There is a Vessel of Water with a Cock hanging over their Heads , which the Barber opens as he pleases , and le ts fall the● Water on them .

In one of these Barbers shops in the City of Larissa I saw an ancient large Tomb of stone of a Jaspis green colour , a noble Monument , but taken little notice of there , and the Barber had caused a hole to be digged through the top stone , and put Water into it , and made it to serve him for a Cistern .

I was in some doubt , how we should be accommodated for the exchange of our Ducats , Dollars , and other money we brought with us ; but we found ready accommodation therein from Money-changers , who sit in the Market-place for such purposes , to change them into Medines , Aspers , and five sols Pieces , whereof there was plenty in those Parts .

The great trading Streets were covered , as in other great Turkish Towns ; the Shops are small , but well furnished ; wherein hang all Commodities , which may be had in a larger manner , if desired . The Shop-keeper sits like a Taylor in his Shop , and so sells his Commodities unto his Chapman , who commonly stands in the Street . ● or other Commodities , a man riding through the Streets cries them , and gives notice where , and at what rate they may be had .

Though I have been much pleased at the sight of the fine Stables of Horses of many Princes in Christendom , as at that of the Louvre in Paris . The Vice-Roy's of Naples . The Duke of Saxony's noble Stable at Dresden , and Count Wallesteyne's at Prague in the last of which each Horse hath a Marble Pillar by him , eats his Provender out of a Manger of polished Marble upon a Pedestal of the same , placed in a Nicchio , in which hangs also his rack of hammered Steel , and over his head on one side his Picture as big as the life . Yet those gallant Horses , I beheld at Larissa were surprizing unto me , chosen from all parts of the Turkish Empire ; which were so richly equipped with Bridles and Saddles set with precious Stones , and withal so tender mouthed and tractable , that it was a great delight to behold them . I saw some Tartarian Horses , which are of singular esteem , for hardiness , lasting , and swiftness , but unsightly , and promise little , and when Cha Gagi Aga , Ambassador from the Cham of Tartary , presented some of them to the Emperor of Germany , at first sight I thought them but a pitiful present .

The Greek Merchants some of them learn the Italian Tongue , in order to their Commerce : which makes that Language of good use unto a Traveller in these parts , where French and Latine are in a manner useless . The Jews speak commonly Spanish , as they do in Macedonia , Servia , and Bulgaria ; and High-Dutch in Hungaria .

I was in Thessaly at a very dry season , and some considerable Rivers were low , and small ones dry , yet one I observed about seven Miles on this side Tornovo , to flow plentifully from under a rocky Mountain ; not in small springs or streams ; but the whole body of the River came from under the Hill . The Country however in general was very hot and dry , and I could not but think , what a different face it now had , from that , in the time of Deucalion , King of Thessaly ; when that memorable deluge happened in this Country , which some affirm , to have lasted a whole Winter ; occasioned by some stopping of the River Peneus , and its current into the Sea ; into which River most of the others run , and so an inundation must follow in such a Country as Thessaly , which is plain , and encompassed with Hills . And some also conceive , that in the first times all this Country was under water , till an Earthquake divided the Mountains of Ossa and Olympus , and made a free passage for Peneus , to pass by Tempe into the Sea . In Macedonia , between Comonava and Filurina , at a place called Eccisso Verbeni , where I saw plentiful Springs of Mineral waters , I had also a Prospect of two great Lakes ; one whereof the People have a Tradition , that it first happened by taking great stones out of the side of a Mountain ; whereupon there issued out such a flood of water , as to drown the Country about , and to cause a Lake .

As I travelled in Macedonia , the Chiaus told me , that within two days he would show me French men , whereby he meant the Country People of Thessaly , from some likeness of their Caps with small brims , to the little Hats lately in fashion .

The Thessalians have been a warlike Nation , and are still a stout People . I heard the Turks complain of them , as a sturdy and desperate People ; and Men , who , if injured , would find opportunity to be revenged : and that divers of the Turks had been surprized , and had lost their lives by them .

The Country of Thessaly seemed the more considerable to me , in regard that it hath formerly been the Seat of great Actions , and produced many worthy Persons ; and particularly , because the famous Hippocrates , the Father of Physicians lived and practised here , as may be collected from the Oration of his Son Thessalus , and the Narration of his Life by Soranus , annexed to his Works ; wherein it is delivered That he lived in Thessaly , and was warned by a Dream to abide in that Country . That the Princes and Rulers of the Barbarous Nations about Illyria and Paeonia , sent hither to him ; as also the King of Macedonia . That he dyed in , or about Larissa . That he was buried between Larissa and Gyrton , and it may be observed in the Epidemies or Books of Hippocrates : wherein he sets down the Particulars of the Diseases of his Patients , together with their Names and Places of Habitation . That a great number of his Patients were of the City of Larissa .

Many famous Battles have been fought in the Plains of Thessaly ; and a greater than any there might have been , if the Graecians had accepted of the Challenge of Mardonius , the Persian General , when he sent unto them , to come out of their fast Places , and fight with them in Thessaly , where there were Plains and open Places enough , wherein to show their Valour .

The Thessalians are an handsom race of People , having black Hair , black Eyes , and their Faces of a fresh and florid sanguine , much like our fresh Complexions in England : so that Strangers much admired the Women , and spoke often of the bel sangue de' Greci , or fair blood of the Graecians . The Macedonians , who live in hilly Countries , are of a coarser Complexion : and the Moreans or Peloponnesians , who live more South-ward , incline unto a swarthiness .

They have always had the name of good Horse-men , and the Country still abounds in good Horses . They have also great Buffalo's , esteemed the largest in Greece , except those of Santa Maura in Epyrus . There are also large and well-coloured Tortoises , of a fine yellow and black ; and esteemed very good meat . But the Turks laughed at the Christians , for feeding on such Food , where they might have Mutton , Pullets and Partridges .

The Country produces very large , fair , and delicious Figs , Water-melons , the largest and most pleasant I have tasted ; which were very refreshing unto us ; as also fair and delicate Pomegranates , Orainges , Limons and Citrons , Vines , which are low , like those about Montpellier , and not supported ; but the Branches and Clusters great , and the Grapes as big as good Damasens , and of a delicious taste . The Wine of the Country is rich , but much thereof hath a resinous taste or tang of the Boracho .

They plant Tabaco , and esteem it better , than what is brought from other Parts , as being more strong and pungent . The Fields are spread with Sesamum and Cotton Trees ; but the Trees grow low , yet make a fair show . The Country abounds in Almonds and Olives ; and the Greeks delight most in the ripe Olive pickled , as we in the green .

The Gourdes in the Hedges , with their large yellow Flowers , and the many sorts of green Thorns , and ever-green Oaks , make the ways pleasant .

The Ilex coccifera , and Chermes-berry , or the Excretion , serving for dying , and making the Confection of Alchermes grows plentifully in these Countries ; and with this Aegeus in old Time tinged the Sails , which he presented to Theseus upon his Voyage to Crete ; ordering him , if he overcame the Minotaure , and returned fortunately , to make use of these Sails beautifully coloured in token of Victory . Upon the high Hills grow Asclepias and Helleborus ; in the stony Plains Carduas globosus , Cystus , Lavender , Marjoram , Rosemary , and other sweet smelling Plants . The Platanus or Plain-tree grows most fair , large and well spread in Macedonia , affording a refreshing shade ; so that it is less to be wondred at , that Hippocrates found Democritus sitting under a Plain-tree at Abdera in Macedonia . Some of the seeds and tusts I brought with me into England .

They use much Garlick in most of their Dishes , and their Onions are extraordinary , as large as two or three fair ones with us , and of a far better taste ; being sharp , quick , and pleasantly pungent , and without any offensive smell . Though I were no lover of Onions before , yet I found these exceeding pleasant and comfortable to the Stomach . They are used at most Collations , and eaten with B●ead in good quantity . I asked a Chiaus , then with us , who had travelled through most of the Turkish Dominions , whether he had any where met with so good Onions , as these of Thessaly ; who answered me , that the Onions of Aegypt were better , which was the first time I sensibly understood the expression in Scripture , and ceased to wonder , why the Israelites lingred after the Onions of that Country .

Malainsana . They have a Fruit which they call Patlejan or Melanzan , between a Melon and a Cucumber ; out of which they make a very pleasant Dish , by taking out the middle or seeds of it , and filling it up with the meat of Sawsages , and then pare it , and boyl it .

Of the Agents of foreign Countries , there attended on the Grand Seignior , the Resident of the Emperor of Germany ; the Ambassador of Ragusi ; and another of Wallachia , which are Ambassadors of the Confines ; the Ambassadors for Trade , residing about Constantinople , and not obliged to keep close unto the Sultan . Larissa being full and pestered with People , the Emperor 's Resident desired of the Sultan leave to abide in some Neighbour Town ; who bade him to make choice of any Place , or any House he liked ; which concession moved him to cast his Eye upon Tornovo , a large and pleasant City of Thessaly , about ten Miles West-ward from Larissa , and seated near the Hills ; where most of the Inhabitants are Christians , there being only three Moschea's , but eighteen Churches of the Greeks ; whereof the chiefst , which I observed , were these : the Cathedral Church of St. John , the Church of St. Demetrius , of Cosmus and Damianus , of the Nativity of the blessed Virgin ; of St. Elias ( this is the Habit of their Monks . ) ( where there is also an adjoyning Monastery , seated on the side of the Hill ) of St. Anastasius , of the twelve Apostles , of St. Nicholas , ( with a Convent also , ) and of St. Anthony the Hermite . The Bishop hereof is under the Arch-bishop of Larissa .

A Greecian Monke .

pag ▪ 42

A Greek monastary at Alessone .

p. 66

The monastary of St Elias by Tornodo

And I could not but take notice how these Eastern Parts of Europe abounded with Christians of the Greek Church beyond my expectation , and since they are thus to be found in many large Countries . In Graecia , and the Greek Islands , in the Turkish Parts of Dalmatia and Croatia , in Rascia , Bosnia , Servia , Thracia , Sagora , Bulgaria , Sirfia , Bessarabia , Cossackia , Podolia , Moldavia and Wallachia , and the vast Dominions of the Emperor of Russia , they must needs make a notable part of Christendom , and put me more sensibly in mind of an Expression of a learned Writer . If we should collect and put together all the Brerewood's enquiries . Christian Regions in Europe , which are of the Greek Communion , and compare them with the Parts professing the Roman Religion in Europe , we should find the Greek far to exceed .

In the Western Parts of Europe , in many Churches the Fonts are stately , raised high from the Ground , and to be ascended unto by divers Steps ; sometimes covered with large Canopies , or with high Pavilions handsomly carved and adorned . But in the Greek Churches the Font or Bason is generally made of plain Stone , and placed low upon the Floor of the Church ; and this is more convenient for them , in their baptizing of Infants . For they put the Child into the Water , and are not contented with a meer sprinkling upon the Fore-head of it . But the Priest , after he hath blessed the Water , and dipped a Crucisix into it three times , he takes the naked Child by one Arm , and sets it into the Font up to the Wast , and with his other Hand laves the Water thrice over its Head ; and this hath been their Way of baptizing for many hundred Years . Nor could that otherwise have happened , which is reported of the Emperor , Constantine the sixth , Constantinus sextus , dictus Copronymus , quod Infans dum baptizaretur aquam sacram ventris solutione maculasset . The dipping of the naked Body in Water being apt to move it . I saw some of their Children baptized before the Navel string was fallen off .

The Fields about this Place are planted with Vines , Cotton and Sesamum . The Emperors Resident Illustrissimo Signore di Casa nova , was well accommodated here with a fair House , and had thirty Turks and Christians in his Family , and two Janizaries attending at the Gate , good humored and fair conditioned Men , as could be wished . The Resident was a Milanese by birth , a grave and sober Person , somewhat melancholy , much addicted to his Book and reading , but very civil and courteous . He dined and supped alone by himself ; his Secretary , Interpreters , and others of his Family , had another Place of repast , and were always well provided , and served after the Turkish manner .

The Ambassador also of Ragusa made choice of the same Town ; and their followers often met each other , and many courteous salutes passed between them ; but they were only by civil Messages , for they never met , upon a punctilio , which kept them asunder ; the Ragusa Ambassador pretending a right to take the first place , he being in the quality of an Ambassador , the other but of a Resident ; although he were much despised for it by the Germans , and his Masters looked upon , but as Gentlemen of the Sette Bandiere , or Persons that were and had been Subjects and Tributaries under seven Masters , or Sovereign Princes .

I must not forget Demetrius , a Greek Merchant of Tornovo , in whom I thought I beheld the Humor of the old Greeks , we were divers times entertained at his House with much generosity , and hearty freedom . He desired us to enjoy his House freely , and to be merry after the Mode of our own Countries : and , as an especial favour , brought his two Daughters to bid us welcome : and we took the liberty , after the Custom of France , Holland and England , to salute them ; they were handsomly attired , after the manner of their Country ; their Hair brayded and hanging down their back ; their Shooes or Slippers painted , their Nails coloured of a reddish colour with Cnà or Alcanna ; the Leaves of which Plant , powdred and steeped in Water and Wine , and layed a Night upon their Nails , leaves this Tincture , and is much used in Turkey ; where some delight also to colour tho Mains and Tails of their Horses . The Graecians of Scio also , who wear Gloves ( it being a rare thing to see any here ) do colour their Gloves also upon those Parts which cover their Nails . Cnà is a great Commodity in the Turkish Dominions , brought out of Arabia and Aegypt , and to be bought in every good Town or Fair. I brought a Pound of it Home with me , which lost not its tincturing Quality .

The Graecian Countries , which I passed , are extremely altered from that State , ●hereo● we ●end in ancient History : as having suffered spoiling Inc●●sions ●ro● many Nations , and a fatal Conquest by the Turks ; who utterly destroyed many Towns and famous Places , and changed the Names of most ; not leaving the old Appellations unto Rivers , which most lastingly maintain their ancient Names . I passed most of the great Rivers in Macedonia , the Axius , Erigonus and Aliacmo● which have now Names of no affinity unto them . The River Pe●eus , so famous in the old Poets , hath lost its name , together with Apidanus , Enipeus , and others , that run into it . The Turks call Larissa , Jeni-Sahar ; and Thessaly , Comenolitari .

SOME OCCURRENCIES AND OBSERVATIONS IN THIS JOURNEY .

IT is no unpleasant sight to behold a new Scene of the World , and unknown face of things , in Habits , Diet , Manners , Customs and Language . A Man seems to take leave of our World , when he hath passed a Days journey from Rab or Comorra : and , before he comes to Buda , seems to enter upon a new Stage of the World , quite different from that of these Western Countries : for he then bids adieu to Hair on the Head , Bands , Cuffs , Hats , Gloves , Beds , Beer : and enters upon Habits , Manners and course of life ; which with no great variety , but under some conformity , extend unto China , and the utmost Parts of Asia .

Though we were pretty well secured by Authority for safe Travel , yet we were not without fear of the Hussars , till we came to Esseck Bridge , over the River Dravus : for they are active Persons ; and understanding the Language , will boldly range about for Booty , as far as that noted Pass ; and , knowing all By-ways , will rob and spoil whom they meet , especially the Turkish Subjects .

Nor were we without fear also of Gypsies , who are stout and bold , and some of them have been noted Robbers . There are many of them in Hungaria , Servia , Bulgaria , Macedonia ; and some I saw at Larissa , and other Parts of TheBaly . They are in most Towns , and live by labour , and handy-craft Trades ; many of them colour their Hands and Feet of a reddish colour , with Cnà , and think those Parts suffer less from the Cold thereby . Some Gypsy Women colour the ends of their Hair also . Though they be remotely dispersed , yet they are thought to have had their beginning about Wallachia , and the adjoining Parts , many of them are conceived to be Spies unto the Turk . A little before I came to Leopoldstadt , by Freistadt , a great drove of them appeared in those Parts ; which the People suspected to be Spies of the Visier of Buda , to take notice of the State of those Parts , and how that Fort proceeded .

Travelling from Belgrade into Servia , we were in some danger of being robbed : for we perceived three Horse-men to ride very fast after us ; and , when they had over-taken us , they rode about us , waving their Lances , and discharged their Pistols ; but the Chiaus perceiving them to be Spahies , showed his Feather , and said to me , discharge one of your Pistols at random , and let them know , we are not unarmed ; at which they went off , and we saw them no more .

Caravansara's , Chan's , or Places of publick Lodging , built by Benefactors , we liked not so well as private Houses ; and therefore , being but few in Company , seldom lodged in them , for they are wide Rooms , and we must provide for our selves therein ; and sometimes they are dangerously seated , so that it was not fit to adventure our selves therein , for fear of being robbed ; for though Robberies be severely punished , yet are they frequently committed ; and Gypsies are well versed in that Trade ; and therefore , in order to the safety of Travellers , Drummers are appointed in dangerous Passages ; and in Macedonia , in a narrow Pass , I saw an old Man beating a Drum upon the ridge of a Hill ; whereby we had notice , that the Passage was clear and free from Thieves .

We had the advantage of good Accommodation for Travel , for parting from Comora , our Boat was towed by a Saick of twenty four Oars ; Hungarians rowing upon one side , and Germans on the other ; till we came to Motch , the Frontier Town , where we had a Turkish Convoy ; who fastning our Boat to their Saick with eighteen Oars , rowed down the Danube , we carrying the Eagle on our Flag , and the Turks the double Sword and Half-moon , and passed by divers remarkable Places to Buda , from whence we had good Accommodation for Travel to Belgrade , by open Chariots , with two , three or four Horses on breast ; which with great speed conveyed us through that pleasant plain Country , and from thence through Servia , and other Provinces , we were furnished with very good Horses , which would travel at a good rate twenty Miles in a Stage , and were very sure of foot ; whereof I had good experience , when in some Parts we travelled over great Hills , unequal and craggy Places , and over the bare Rocks . They are very free , and therefore the Owners of the Horses took acceptions at our Spurs , which are seldom used by them , and the Turks had none , but what we brought , and gave them . They are very tractable and tender mouthed ; and when we mounted or alighted , would handsomly apply themselves to such Places ; and when we walked , some of them would follow us without leading . They have a lighter and lesser Shooe than our Horses ; and when they have shod one foot , they take up the foot against it , and setting the other upon a Block of three inches high , they pare it .

They have very good Horses in most of these Countrys , and very fleet , but they never dock them , but their Tails grow out at length , and sometimes they handsomly make them up : and in their Journeys they often alight from them , and strongly pull at their Fore-top or forehead-lock , and think that doth much refresh them , which the Strangers who travel here call Croatian Provender .

The Bassa of Temeswar presented Ragotzi with a Horse , which Ragotzi slighting cut off the Horse's Ears , Main and Tail , and sent him back again . This perhaps would have been thought an Ornament to an Horse in England : but the Bassa took it as such an affront to his , that he never ceased from stirring up the Sultan , and other Princes against him , and never forgave the Injury , but by the help of the Turk , Tartar , Emperor , Poles and Ragotzi's own Country-men also , he wrought at last his Ruine .

For their feeding , they make no high Mangers or Racks , to pull down thir Food ; but , observing the Rule of Nature , lay their Hay low before them , and almost even with the Ground ; which in long necked Animals , may be the most commodious way , they are lodged hard , and often with little covering . At Larissa , where the Town was pestered with Horses and Camels : the Yards of the Houses were full of them , and Places made at the bottom of the Wall for their Food .

In Caravansara's the Horses are tyed to a ringle , fastned unto the side of a long Place , a little elevated , upon which the Travellers take their rest ; and the Hay was laid a little below our feet , whereon the Horses feed .

They plow more with Oxen than Horses , and especially with Buffelo's ; and have great variety of Ploughs and Carts ; some whereof I could not but take notice of in Macedonia , made with Wheels , not consisting of Spoaks , but of solid Wood , in the whole piece ; whether so contrived for strength , in those rocky Countries , where they must strike and force upon such inequalities , I cannot tell .

We were furnished with small things to oblige the People where we passed : and in Houses where we entred , many would welcome the Emperor's Courier , and ask him what he had brought for them . We pleased them with Scissors , Knives ; and they would be content , if we gave a Glove to one , and the fellow to another . To the Women we gave small pieces of European Coines ; and I was much thanked by a Bulgarian Woman , for a bright cinq sols piece , which she added to the dress of her Head , over her Fore-head , with other Coins she had there before ; some of them wearing Duckets of Gold , and Pearl , and Stones of value upon that Part , which make no unhandsom show .

Being only careful to keep our selves from Thieves , we expected no such trouble , as we found from Wolves and Dogs , in our Journey about the Mountains in Servia ; and especially in large Woods , we were continually alarmed by Wolves , especially in the Night ; when they seldom ceased to howl in great numbers , and not far from us ; so that we were forced to be solicitous in our Guard , and to keep close together . And as the Wolves were troublesome , so also the great number of Dogs in those Parts were very offensive to us . As soon as we came near any Town , or left it , they came out , running at us , barking and biting the Horses legs , and in Houses would be barking and snarling , so that without a Cudgel it was not safe going into the Yard . And it seems impossible , that these Towns should be surprized by the most silent Enemy , without having good notice thereof by Dogs : and sure , they are kept to this intent . For as soon as the Sun sets they begin to bark and cease not till the Morning . The Town of St. Malo's in France is also guarded somewhat after this manner , where they turn the Dogs out of the Town at Night , and are as secure thereby , as if they had an army of Watchmen to guard them . Some such trouble from Dogs I remembred , that I had met with at the strong Town of Komara , when I came into the Town about Midnight , which was so full of Dogs fiercely barking and running upon us , that to save our selves , we were fain to take shelter in the Corps de guard , till a lodging was provided for us .

I could not but pity the poor Christians , seeing under what fear they lived in those Parts ; when I observed them to make a way , as soon as they perceived us coming towards them . In Macedonia the Men and Women would betake themselves into the Woods to avoid us ; and we took the pains sometimes to ride after them , to undeceive them of their folly and needless Frights .

But that which moved me most , was the pitiful Spectacle of Captives and Slaves , which are often met with in those Countries ; together with the variety of their hard Fates and Accounts , how they fell into that Condition ; some by Treachery , some by Chance of War ; others by Plagiary and Man-stealing Tartars , who plentifully furnish the Turkish Dominion ; some fixed to one Master , others having been sold unto many , and at distant Places . But their Condition is most desperate who are Slaves to the Court , and belong to the Grand Seiignior : for they are never to be redeemed . Of which kind I met with one at Egribugia in Macedonia , attending at the post-house ; who though he had no hard Office , yet was extremely dejected upon this misfortune of Non-redemption .

In Thessaly also I met with one Sigismund , who had been a Slave to several Persons , and in several Countries . He was an Hungarian , born at Gran , and taken at the Battle of Barachan , under Count Forchatz , in the last Wars ; first served a Turk , then sold to a Jew , who proved a hard Master , then to an Armenian ; under whom he so well acquitted himself , that his Master gave him his freedom , and he made a shift to come to Larissa , where the Emperor 's Resident entertained him . I was very much pleased with his Conversation , being a worthy , honest and good natured Man ; and had maintained his Christianity in his several Fortunes . He spoke Hungarian , Sclavonian , Turkish , Armenian and Latin : shew'd me the Draughts of many Monasteries , Abbies , Moschea's , and considerable Buildings in Armenia , Persia and Turkey : and I hope by this time he is in his own Country .

The Turks , who are well acquainted with the Captives of several Nations , make observations of them : so they say , a Russian is best for the Oar , a Georgian makes a good Courtier , and an Albanian , a good Counsellor . A Turk in our company , observing a Georgian Captive much dejected at his Condition , encouraged him , and bid him be of good cheer ; telling him he might come to be a great Man , and one of the best in Turky .

The first time I went to have a sight of the Grand Seignior , Osmund Chiaus made no great haste forward , and when I asked him the reason , he replied , I take no great pleasure to be too near him : and afterwards when he talked of some Bassa's , who had been strangled , and I added , that in this respect he lived more happily than any Bassa : he said , such things must be patiently put up , all our Lives are in the Sultan's hands : in your petty Kingdoms and States , Men are Tryed and Convicted , but our great Empire cannot be so maintained , and if the Sultan should now send for my Head I must be content to lay it down patiently , not asking wherefore : and I remember his Words were that in this Country we must have , patienza fin a perder la testa , e poi pa●ienza , patience even to the loss of our Heads , and patience after that .

We had frequent Memento's of Mortality , by Graves and Sepulchres , as we passed ; especially near Belgrade . For the Turks are commonly buried by the High-ways : yet their Tombs are not ordinarily splendid , consisting only of a Stone erected at the Head and at the Feet : yet some set up Stones of two , three or four yards high . Some have a Turbant carved upon the Stone , at the Head ; and others set up two Pillars of Stone ; some proceed farther , and raise the Sepulchres , as with us , and afterwards place two Pillars upon them , one at the Head , and another at the Feet . At Scopia I saw fair ones , after this manner , and two Sepulchres in one of them : but the best way I observed in these Parts , is by building a Pavillion supported by four Pillars . As we travelled to the South from Jagodna in Servia , I saw upon the side of a Hill , a large Turkish Tomb , about four yards long , and a square place covered by it , which the Chiaus told me was the Tomb of one of their Saints , and accordingly performed his Devotions at it , and at other Places : on Thursday Nights and Friday's , I observed the Women to visit the Sepulchres , and pay their Devotions at the Tombs of their dead Friends .

This Gigantick Saint that lay buried here , was certainly a fit Man in his time to wield the holy Club , with which the Turk does propogate his Religion and Dominion , and if he were as long as his Tomb , he was as formidable a Person as any of the Patagonian Gyants painted upon the Southern Part of divers Maps of America with long Arrows in their Throats . I must confess it seems strange to me that the Stature of Man should be extended to that height . Mr. Wood , an ingenious Person , who hath made very fair and accurate Maps of the Streights of Magellan , the Islands therein , and the Coast from the River of Plate to Baldivia , in the South-sea , told me that he had seen divers Graves in the Southern Parts of America near four yards long , which surprized him the more , because he had never seen any American that was two yards high , and therefore he opened one of these long Sepulchres from one end to the other , and found in it a Man and a Woman , so placed , that the Womans head lay at the Mans feet , and so might reasonably require a Tomb of near that length .

But to return into the rode for our diversion , we sometimes met with Turkish Fairs , which are ordinarily kept in some large ground , enclosed and divided into Streets and Passes , according to the variety of Commodities to be sold , where a Man may recreate himself with multiplicity of Fripperies , and things different from those of our Parts , and cannot want variety of Musick ; which , though but mean , proved some diversion unto us . The first Fair we met with , was at Lescoa or Lescovia , upon the River Liperizza in Servia .

It was no small comfort to us , to find the Country so free from the Plague , which we only met with at Prestina , a large Town , on part of the Plains of Cossova , when we came into that Place , we were entertained in a very good House , and brought into a large Room , well accommodated with Carpets and other Ornaments ; where we found a Turk lying sick of the Plague . The Chiaus , after the Turkish Humor , made nothing of it ; but some others were not so contented ; and therefore we removed and travelled in the Night , till we came to a Gypsie's House amongst the Hills , where we were well accommodated .

The Turks were much pleased to see me write ; when I came into any House , I pulled out my Paper-book to set down what I observed ; which when they perceived , they would come about me , taking notice of the Paper , and binding of the Book , wondring to see me write so fast , and with such a Pen , which was made of a Goose Quill , they usually writing with a hard Reed , cut like our Pens . Many carry about them an handsome brass Ink-horn , which they hang by their sides ; their Ink is good , Paper smooth and polished ; whereon they will write very fairly , as I have to show in the Sultan's Pass , which I brought home with me .

When I found occasion , I used to look upon some Maps , which I carried with me : whereat Osman Chiaus smiled , saying , there is no depending upon Maps ; they set down only great Towns , and often falsely . Chiauses are able to make the best Maps , who pass their Days in travelling Countries ; and take notice of all Places ▪ and know their Turkish Names ; and in many particulars I found some truth in his Words ; for the Maps of Hungary are not exact ; those of Servia , Bulgaria , Macedonia and Thessaly very imperfect . In upper Hungary , many Towns are omitted , many ill-placed ; in the lower also not a few . The Danube seems to fetch about too much to the South-west , before the Tibiscus enters into it . In Servi● , Hissargick is placed too far from the Danube , which runnes by it . I find no mention of Procupia or Vrchoop , of Lescoa or Lescovia , considerable Towns ; the last upon the winding River Liperizza : nor of Kaplanly or Tigres Town , in Macedonia ; nor of Kupruly or Bridge-Town ; nor of Vrania , Pyrlipe , Comonava , Eccisso Verbeni ; nor of the Lake Petriski and Ostreva , not far from it ; nor of Egribugia , Sariggiole , Sarvizza ; nor of the River Injecora near it ; nor of Alesson , nor Tornova in Thessaly , a handsome considerable City . And he that travels in Macedonia , will never be able to reconcile the Positions of Rivers and Towns to their usual Descriptions in Maps , although not long ago there have been large ones published of Greece .

I took great pleasure to converse with Chiauses , especially if they were of any years ; for they speak divers Languages , and have seen much of the World ; are commonly good Company , and able to give account of many things . Osman Chi●us , who travelled with us , was about fifty years of Age , spake Turkish , Sclavonian and Italian : a stout and faithful honest Person , very cleanly and neat : he told me he had travelled the greatest part of Turky , and growing old seated himself in Buda , as a Chiaus to the Visier ; which place pleased him better than any in Turky : he took a civil farewel of me at Buda , bringing me out of the Gates , and with many a Dios wished me a happy return into my Country ; and indeed , in all my Journey I met with fair carriage , and civil usage ; when I came into any Room where the Turks were sitting ▪ they would salute me , and touching my hand , require me to sit down with them , then offer me Coffee , and sometimes Tabaco , and at Meals invite me to eat heartily ; only in some places , the Boys , and meaner sort of People would call me Sashtlu gaur , or haired Infidel . And a Jew at Larissa , whom I had employed to buy some little things for me ; and I saying , they were too dear , gave me some ill Language , which so displeased some that were by , that if the Grand Seignior had not been in person in the Town , they would have taught him other manners .

The Turks took much Tabaco in the Countries which I passed , and many carried little bags thereof by their sides , which they take in pipes of an ell long , made of an hard reed , and an earthen head at the end , laying one end on the ground , and holding the other in their mouthes . I did seldom take any ; but to comply with their kindness , I would not refuse it ; and by reason of the length of the pipe , it was cool , and less disturbing ; they take it also often in snuff . Seignior Gabriel , the Emperor's Courier would tell them many stories ; and while he was speaking , they would come about him , and listen very attentively : and he would pull out his snuff-box , and put snuff-powder into their noses , which they would take very kindly . They would be always gazing upon the Emperor's Armes cut in a Stone , which he wore upon his breast ; whereupon he would take occasion to magnifie the Emperor , describe the multitude of Provinces subject unto him ; and any thing that might confer unto his honour , whereof they would take great notice .

I liked well the neatness and cleanliness of the Turks , which we conversed with , and their washing of their feet , hands , and faces , though they had some purifying conceit thereof ; while we travelled , the Chiaus , at the fight of a Spring , or clear water , would often alight , and wash himself ; and every morning was very curious in winding up his Turbant , and combing of his beard ; and would ask me , whether it were well done . When they go to the house of office , they carry a pitcher of water with them ; they affect privacy when they make water ; which they perform , resting upon one knee , and stretching out the other leg . Walking in Larissa with the Chiaus , the Streets being narrow , and full of people , and remembring the sad fate of Vincent le Blanc , who lost his liberty , besides other misfortunes , for pissing over a Turkish Saints head , who lay interred in a place , he little suspected ; I asked him , where I might make water without offence , who answered me grumblingly at first , but afterwards directed me to a place , and stood at a little distance , to secure me from any affront . And at another time while I travelled in an open Calesche or Chariot by Moon-light , I made water over one side thereof , to avoid being troublesome to the rest in ingaging them to stay for me till I alighted and went aside or retard their journey in the night ; but one who layed down by my feet took notice of it to me with a great deal of regret , and and though out of the respect he professed to bear me , he was resolved not to divulge it . Yet he wondered I would venture the loss of my credit in such a matter .

Some experience we had in our return of the Turkish Justice , at Egribugia , in Macedonia ; for travelling from Sariggiole over high Rocks , we met with a Turkish Aga before our arrival ; who , having a numerous train , had taken up all the Horses at Egribugia ; so that we could not be readily supplied ; and therefore intended to ride our Horses another Stage , the way laying now in the Plain , and our Horses strong and able , we set forward on the same ▪ Horses ; but before we were got out of the Town , we were stopped , and carried before the Cadih , by the Post-master ; who alledged against us , that we were injurious unto him , in that we passed by , without taking Horses at his House ; he being allowed by the Grand Seignior , whose Servant he is , so much for every Horse he provides ; and that none was to provide Horses in that place , but himself ; so that he was damnified and had no profit coming unto him .

The Cadih therefore considering of the business , and sitting cross-legged upon his Carpet , and leaning his elbow upon four or five Folio Books , which he had by him ; commanded his Servants to fill every one a dish of Coffee . The Chiaus , in our defence , urged , that we had business of concern ; that we had the Chaymacham's Letters ; and were employed from the Grand Seignior to the Emperor of Germany ; that he himself was a Chiaus to the Vis●er of Buda , whither he was to conduct us , and that no man could or ought to stop him ; whereupon the Cadih said , the Chiaus must not be hindred in his journey , nor the Post-master be unconsidered ; and so presently called for the Post-masters Book , and with his pen , made of a reed , set down a Sultanine to be allowed him in his accounts to the Tefterdar , and bade us good morrow , and wished us a good journey .

In the European Turkish Dominions , which I passed , I could not but take notice of the great number of Christians ; for , excepting great Cities , or where the Souldiery reside , they are generally all Christians ; whereof the great body is of the Greek Church , who live patiently under the Turkish toleration . If there should happen any considerable commotion among the Turkish powers ; it is highly probable , they would sit still , and be little active ; and if any Forces of the Latine Church should attempt the Conquests of these parts , in all probability they would find very little assistance from them , and I fear they would rather adhere unto their Turkish Masters .

Though Augustus thought it a point of wisdom , to put some limit unto the Roman Empire , yet I do not find the Turks are of his judgment , but still endeavour to enlarge their Dominions , and when I consider that people , their hardy education , sober course of life , and obedience to their Superiors ; that no Bassa can easily intend a revolt , but some others will discover him , in hope to obtain his place , or some great preferment ; and that they so punctually observe the duty of their Charges ; I am apt to think , or fear , if he , who puts bounds to the Sea , and saith hither thou shalt come and no further , doth not , out of his great mer●y , put a stop to their further incursions , they may probably obtain and conserve a far larger Empire , and even all Europe , unto the Western Ocean .

Certain it is that they are unsatisfied with their present bounds and look beyond Hungaria , and I have heard them say , we must in due time come to Beatch , for so they call Vienna , and try our fortunes again ▪

At this day the Star and Half-moon are above the Cross , upon the Steeple of the Cathedral Church of St. Stephen , in the Emperor of Germany his Imperial City of Vienna : and it grieved me to see in all the Con●ines a sort of Cross which our Heralds do not dream of , which is a Cross Lunated after this manner , whereby the Inhabitants as they testifie their Christianity , so they acknowledge the Turkish power .

A Cross with Half-moons set over the Churches in the Country which payeth contribution to the Turks in Hungary . The Star and Half-moon upon the Steeple of St. Stephen's Church at Vienna .

Le●pold stadt

pag●● ▪

A JOURNEY FROM KOMARA OR GOMORA ▪ TO THE MINE-TOWNS IN HUNGARY ▪ AND FROM THENCE TO VIENNA .

BEING at Komara , and having satisfied my curiosity as far that way as the Christian Dominions extended . I pursued my intention of seeilng the Copper , Silver and Gold Mines in Hungary ; and being unwilling to return again to Presburg so far about to get into the road towards them ; I attempted a nearer passage , although there be few who go that way . And therefore I travelled along the North shoar of the Island of Schut , till I came to the Confluence of the River Waag and Danube , and then passed over to a Fortification raised since the last War , called Gutta ; it lies in a Marish ground between a branch of the Danube , the Waag , and the Swartz , within a mile of Newheusel ; which we plainly saw from the Steeple of the Church at Gutta , and could distinguish the buildings within it ; as the Bassa's Pala●e formerly belonging to the Arch Bishop of Presburg ; The Church in the middle of the Town ; the Tower to the Moske , and others . But this nearness to Newheusel proved not only dangerous , but destructive to it in the beginning of the year 1685. after that the Turks had sent great Recruits from Buda : ●or the Count of Zabor having burnt the Suburbs of Newheusel and taken several Prisoners ; the Turks to revenge it made an excursion , and burnt the Town of Gutta , and put all the Inhabitants to the Sword . Their Boats here are of one piece of wood , in which notwithstanding they venture themselves , and pass the greatest Rivers with them ; in this Fort were 130 men commanded by Captain Matthias Fruhwurdt . From hence by Forchatz we came to Schella , where there is another Fort built to hinder the Turks from passing the River Waag , for hereabouts th● Tartars broke over , burned and ruined the whole Country about in the late war , in such manner , that it remains still desolate ; at half a miles distance from this place is a hole in the Earth which burns like Solfaterra by Naples . From hence we went to Schinta a large Fort and built long since to command the River and the Country about . There is a Tower in the middle , four Bastions and many good pieces of Cannon . At the entrance there hanges a great Rib , a Thigh-bone and a Tooth , which I judged to be of an Elephant , having seen the Skeleton of one : and also such bones as these hang up before the Emperor's House at Laxambourg ; those bearing the name of the bones of a great Heathen Virgin ; and these of a Gyant . We came afterwards to Leopolstadt ; a noble regular Fortification with six Bastions , where the Young Count de Souches commanded , to whom I delivered Letters , and received many favours from him . Afterwards I passed the River and came to Freistat , a large fair Town but lately burned by the Turk . Count Forchatz hath a handsome Castle here , and a large House in the Town , whereof I took the draught .

The Lutherans had also a School or College here , but ruined with the rest of the Buildings . They are Tributaries to the Turk , paying yearly eight Hungarische , almost four pence of our money , for every head , whether of Man , Woman , Children , Sheep , Oxen , or Horses . The Children are educated to hardship , and the Women seldom marry twice . They bathe much , and use sweating naked in Stoves , holding their feet in warm water . They use Cupping-glasses also very much and scarifications . In the Convent of the Franciscans were onely twelve Friars left ; and the Roman Christians in these parts have few other Priests but Monks .

Two Hungarian miles from Friestat lies Banca , where in a low ground near the River are fifteen Baths ; into three of which the River-water is now entred , the River Waag continually wearing out its banks by reason of its rapid course . Twenty years since there were also hot Baths on the other side of the River , but are now covered with the cold stream . These Baths leave a white sediment in all places , and tinge Copper and Silver immediately as black as Ink : Hard by these Baths is a Quarry of Stone , and some Veins of Chalk , which were very pleasing to behold , the Chalk being of all colours except green , and the colours so finely mixed , as a painting or marble Paper doth not equal it .

We being here upon the 18 of March , and the weather very cold , had no thoughts of bathing in so open a place ; though in some of them we saw Women and Children ; and the Hussar who drove our Chariot hither , after we had supped , went out , and in a very hard frost pulled off his clothes in the open Meadow at midnight , and bathed himself in one of those Baths .

A ▪ Boate cut out of one tree much used in Hungaria ▪ Croatia ▪ Carniola ▪ Sclavonia ▪ &c. ordi●arily about 18 foot long ▪ two foot and an halfe broad ●ne and halfe deepe .

A Sclar●nian .

German .

P●lonian .

Hungarian .

Croatian .

March the 21. Graff Souches sent us German Musqueteers to convoy us through the Contribution Country , and defend us in our travels ; we passed by Ripnich , and a Castle at Docatzi , belonging to Baron Berrini , and came at night to Topolchan upon the River Nitra , where the Town with the Church were burnt in the last war , and had not well recovered it self again . A mile from hence at Bellitz are also hot Baths . The next day by Clesch , the Inhabitants of which place were all carried away Captives in the last Wars ; and through a great wood by Hochwise , where the Inhabitants were most Germans . We came to Sernowitz seated upon the River Gran , where is a Castle upon a Rock , but the Town is Tributary to the Turks , and they often visit it . March 23. We passed the River Gran early in the Morning , and came among the Hills to Hodrytz , by which Town runs a swift stream very serviceable to them , which helps to move their Engines employed in the pounding , washing and melting of the Silver-ore . We travelled over a Mountain called Hell , and came to Schemnitz , the greatest of the Mine-towns in Hungary : and where great quantity of Silver-ore is every day digged . The Town is well built , hath three fair Churches in it , the greatest part of the Inhabitants are Lutherans . There are also three Castles here ; the old Castle in the Town , where there is Wind-Musick at six every morning , and at twelve , and at six at night . 2. The New-Castle , built by a Lady , who removed the Gibbet from this Hill , and left a fair building in lieu of it . The third is on a high peak , where there is a continual watch kept to discover the approach of the Turks , who immediately give notice of it by the shooting off a Culverin . The Streets lie up and down Hill , the Country hereabouts being all very uneven .

There are very many Mines here , and many adventurers are induced to try their fortunes by the good success so many have had : for if they find a Vein of Ore in any reasonable time , before they have quite spent their Stocks in digging , they may probably expect great profit .

These Mines amongst others are very remarkable ; the Windschacht-Mine , the Trinity , that of St. Benedict , St. John , Matthias , and one called the three Kings ; but the chiefest and most wrought are those of Windschacht and Trinity . Trinity-Mine is seventy fathoms deep , built and kept open with under-work at a great expence , much of this Mine being in an earthy soil . The Ore of it is much esteemed , and is commonly of a black colour covered with a white Earth or Clay ; so that the streams where they work it , become milky and whitish , and is that substance I suppose which is called Lac Lunae , or the Milk of the Moon or Silver . Divers Veins in this Mine lie North , and other rich Veins run to the North-East . When two Veins cross one another they esteem it fortunate ; so that all Veins of Ore keep not the same point even in the same Mine , which would be an help to discover them ; but they have no certain way to know either which way they run , or where they are , till by industrious persevering in the labour of the Mines they are at last found out . They use not the Virgula divina , or forked Hazel-stick to direct them , having no opinion of it ( as I observed they had at the Silver Mine at Friburg in Misnia , where I also learned the use thereof ) but dig alwayes as the Adventurers desire . They shew'd me one place , which they had digged streight on six years , when the Ore was but two fathoms distant from the place where they first began : and in another place they digged twelve years outright , and a t last found a Vein which in a short time paid their charges . I was in many parts of this Mine , and went so far , that at length I passed quite under a Hill , and came out on the other side .

In Windschacht-Mine wherein I also descended as far as the water would then permit me , descending thrice almost perpendicularly about three hundred large steps or stairs of a Ladder . I observed a large Wheel deep in the Earth , of twelve yards Diameter ; turned about by the fall of subterraneous Waters . This Wheel moves Engines which pump out the water from the bottom of the Mine , up to the cavity wherein this Wheel is placed . The water which moves this Wheel falls no lower into the Mine , but passes away through a Cumculus made on purpose , through which both this and the other water pumped from the deepest parts of the Mine , do run out together at the foot of an Hill . Besides this Wheel there is another above ground which lies Horizontally , drawn about continually by twelve Horses , which serves also to pump out much of the water of this Mine ; about all the Works whereof , I was informed that there were no less than two thousand men employed .

In some places of the Mine it is very cold , and in others so hot , that to refresh my self I was constrained to go with my breast naked ; although I had only linen Cloths on . Where they work it is always hot , so that they labour naked for eight hours if they are able , and then rest eight hours more .

In this Mine they shewed me a place where five men and a Person of quality were destroyed by a Damp , for which reason they have now placed a Tube there , the like they place over all doors , and over all ways where they dig right on for a great space , and have no passage through ; whereby the air is let in , let out , or carried round , and the Miners under-ground ventilated with it .

The blackish Ore is esteemed the best ; much of it hath a mixture of a shining yellow substance or Marchasite , which if it be not in too great a quantity is not unwelcome , by reason that it disposes the Ore to fluidity , or renders it more easie to be melted ; but if it be in too great a proportion , they are of opinion , that it preys upon the Silver in the Mine ; and in the Furnace carries it away while it melts , by over-volatilizing it ; and therefore they term it a Robber , as a substance which spoyls and takes away the richness of the Ore .

There is often found a red substance which grows to the Ore called Cinnabar of Silver , which being grinded with Oyl makes a Vermilion equal to , if not surpassing the Cinnabar made by sublimation .

There are also found in these Mines , Crystals , Amethysts , and Amethystine mixtures in the clests of the Rocks , and sometimes nigh or joyned to the Ore ; as also Vitriol naturally crystalliz'd in the Earth in divers of these Mines ; and particularly in a Mine in Paradise Hill ; which then belonged to Mr. Jacobus Schwiboda , an Apothecary , at whose House I lodged , and who presented me with many curious Minerals .

And as there is great variety in the Silver-Ore , as to its mixtures with Earth , Stones , Marchasite , Cinnabar , Vitriol , &c. So also in its richness ; some holding a great proportion of Silver in respect of others . An hundred pound weight of Ore sometimes yields but half an ounce or an of Silver ; sometimes two ounces , three , four , five , and unto twenty ounces ; what is richer is very rare , yet some hath ●een found to hold half Silver , and I have seen of it so rich , as to be cut with a knife .

A Specimen of each sort of Ore which they dig out of the Mines is carried upon its first being discovered to an Officer called the Probierer , who is to prove and judge of its richness ; which he doth in this manner . Of all sorts of Ores he takes the same quantity , the Ores being first dryed , burned , and pounded , he gives an equal proportion of lead to all , melts and purifies them , and then by exact Scales takes notice of the proportion between the Ore and Metal contained in it , and reports it to those employed in the great melting Furnaces ; who accordingly add or diminish the quantities of those substances which are to be mixed with the Ores to melt them in the melting Furnace ; as for example , to an hundred centen or ten thousand pound weight of Silver-Ore , which holds above two ounces and an half of Silver in an hundred pounds weight , they add forty centen of Leich , which is Ore pounded and washed ; two hundred centen of Iron-Stone , which is not Iron-Ore , but a Stone found in those Hills , of which the liver coloured is the best . A q antity of Kis , or a sort of Pyrites , according as the Ore is mixed with Marchasite , and of Slacken as much as they please . This last is the scum or cake taken off from the top of the Pan into which the Metals run , and is a substance made out of the former mentioned , by fusion .

Whatsoever is melted in the melting Furnace , is let out through an hole at the bottom thereof into the pan , which is placed in the Earth before it ; and thus exposed , it immediately acquires an hard scum , dross , loaf or cake , which being continually taken away , the Metal remaining becomes purer ; to which is added lead which carrieth all the Silver down to the bottom with it , and after some time the melted Metal is taken out ; then being again melted in the driving ●urnace , the lead or what else remains mixt with the Silver is driven off by the blowing of two great bellows ; and runs over from the melted Silver in form of Litharge . That which first comes over , is the white and that which comes last , being longer in the fire , is the red , not that it is Litharge of Gold , both being driven off from the same Metal .

Most of the Schemnitz Silver-Ore holds some Gold which they separate by melting the Silver , then granulating it , and afterwards by dissolving it in Aqua fortis made out of a peculiar Vitriol prepared at Chremnitz , whereby the Gold is left at the bottom and is afterwards melted ; the Aqua fortis is distilled from the Silver , and serves again for use . But it would be too tedious to describe all the works of these Mines which do well deserve as accurate Descriptions as those of Misnia , and other parts , of which Agricola hath written largely , and very well in his Books De re Metallica & de fossilibus . Lenys also of Mineral works is esteemed , and Lazarus Erker hath handsomely described the principal Ores and Mineral bodies . But certainly there are few places in the World to be compared with this , where Art and Nature strive to show their utmost force and riches .

They work in this Country much after the manner they did in the Emperour Rudolphus his time ; who was a great undertaker and encourager of Mine-works ; but , many of their Instruments and Engines are much improved .

Notwithstanding the great quantity of Silver made every week at Schemnitz and carried away in Carts , I found some difficulty to procure the least piece there , and scarce any one in the Town could furnish me with any that was pure , for the Money of the Country is mixed with above half Copper ; and being desirous to see what alteration divers of those Mineral-waters in that Country , would make upon Metals , for want of other Silver , I was forced to make use of silver Crosses , Crucifixes and Medals , which I borrowed .

Near unto Schemnitz , where old Schemnitz stood , is an high Perpendicular Rock , part of which from the bottom to the top is naturally tinctured with shining fair blue , some green , and spots of yellow in it . At first sight I was much surprized with the beauty of it , and could fansy nothing like it , but a whole Rock of polished Lapis Lazuli : and I have heard from a Spaniard , who lived long in the West-Indies , that there is also a Rock like this nigh to the Silver Mines in Peru.

At Glass-Hitten , an Hungarian mile , or about seven English miles from Schemnitz , there was formerly a rich Gold Mine , but it is lost , no man knowing where the entrance was since the time that Beihlem Gabor Prnice of Transylvania over-ran that Country , and the Inhabitants fled away . The Owner notwithstanding left some marks and directions whereby they might discover it , with the Figures of his Instruments upon the Barks of Trees ; which Instruments they have already found by digging in the Earth , and thus much is intimated to them , that where they find a Stone , on which a Face is carved , they are at it , and are onely to remove part of a Rock with which the Owner stopped up the Mine .

This place is much frequented by reason of its natural hot Baths , of which there are five very convenient , with handsome descents into them , and covered over with large high Roots . The Springs are very clear , the Sediment is red and green , the wood and seats of the Baths under water are incrustated with a stony substance , and Silver is gilded by being left in them : But the most remarkable of these Baths , is that which is called the sweating Bath , whose hot Springs drain through an Hill , and fall into a Bath built to receive them ; at one end of which by ascending I went into a Cave which is made a noble Stove by the heat of these Thermae , and so ordered with Seats , that every one who sits in it , either by choosing an higher or a lower seat , may regulate his sweating , or enjoy what degree of heat he desires . This Cave , as also the sides of the Bath are covered by the continual dropping of those hot Springs , with a red , white , and green substance , very fair and pleasing to the eye .

Bathing my self in the largest of these Baths when there were a great many Men and Women in it ; an active man to divert the Company , had privately conveyed himself to the top of the House which covered the Bath , and on a suddain cast himself down into the water , and by taking hold upon the bottom of the Seats kept himself under water for some time ; afterwards a Serpent coming into the Bath through a channel which conveyed the water into it , many of the women were afrighted at it . He still to continue his service and good will to the Company , was the first that would encounter it , and deliver the Damsels ; which he did in a short time , so successfully , that he caught the Serpent in both his hands , and holding it out of the water , put it into his mouth , and bit the head off . Being taken with his good humour , I afterwards sent for him into the Stove ; and finding that he had been employed in the Mines , I asked him among other things , whether he had seen any natural Vitriol , and where , in the Mines , crystallized in lumps , pure and ready for use , which he said he had in many places , but in the greatest quantity , in a Mine now given over ; by reason that in some places the Earth was fallen in , which was near to Schemnitz : And accordingly two or three days after he came to see me at Schemnitz , brought me Lamps and Mine-mens habits for my self , and two Friends more ; and we went with him under ground , till I came where he shew'd me great quantities of it , much to my satisfaction : the Vitriol there shooting upon the Stones and Earth , upon the floor and sides of the passages , as it doth by art in the Pans , and about the sticks , not hanging from the top , as in many other places I have seen it , like to Ice-icles .

Glass-Hitten belonges to the Count of Lippey , of whose Family was the Learned Polycarpus Procopius Bocanus , who was sent some time past by the Arch-Bishop of Presburg to give an account of the rarities of these Countries ; but his death hindred the publishing of his observations .

Eisenbach about four English miles from Glass-Hitten , and five or six from Schemnitz , hath also hot Baths ; the Sediment of which is red , and turnes into stone ; so that I brought away with me pieces of it of five or six inches diameter : I took also a large piece of this water petrefied as it fell from a spout in which the waves of it are to be seen ; but the spout it self , although made of Wood , was not at all changed , as lying under it . However , those Trees with which they built the sides of the Bath were so petrefied , that those which lay next above the water , were intirely turned into Stone . And it was not unpleasant to observe how nature did here assist art , and out of the body of a Firr-Tree frame a Column of Stone . Nor is it much to be wondred at , that the wood under the water should remain unaltered whilst that above suffered so great a change . These waters are hot , and part of whatsoever is contained in them is sufficiently Volatilized to be carried up with the steam of the Bath , and I remember in the Bath of the Green Pillars at Buda , I took notice , that the exhalation from the Bath reverberated by the high Cupola built over it , and by the Irons extended from one Column to another , and by the Capitals of the Pillars was formed into long Stones like Ice-icles , which hang to all the said places , such as may be observed in many subterraneous Grotto's , and particularly in England in Okey-hole in Somerset-shire , and Pooles-hole in Darby-shire . Sulphur also which is in great quantity in many hot Springs flyeth away continually , and is not to be found in them , if you boyl or evaporate the Bath water : and therefore to discover it , I thought it more rational to look out of the water than into it ; neither was I more deceived in my conjecture , than he who looked towards the West , rather than towards the East to see the rising of the Sun . For upon many places which were over the Baths , and received the steams of the hot water , I have seen Sulphur to stick ; and to satisfie my curiosity further herein , I caused once a Pipe to be opened at Baden in Austria , through which the hot water continually ran , and took with my hand from the upper part of the Pipe , divers Boxes full of a substance scarce to be distinguished from Flower of Brimstone . Walking about also one day in the Sower Bath at Baden , and leaning over the Ballistres to talk with some Friends , who were then bathing themselves , I perceived that my Buttons and what else I wore of silver , were all turned yellow of a fair Gold colour , although I were at some distance from the water . Which made me try this experiment also , which was to hang money over the Bath at a foot distance , or at a greater , to see what alteration it would make , and how soon ; which it coloured in a minutes time , and that which was nearer in half a minute .

But to return to Eisenbach , there are two convenient Baths much frequented , and a third which is made by the water let out of the former , called the Snakes-bath , from the number of Snakes coming into , and delighting in it when it is filled with these warm waters .

March the thirtieth , I travelled from Schemnitz by Glass-Hitten , and Apfelsdorff , where there is a House of the Arch-Bishop of Presburg ; and afterwards passed the River Gran and came in between the Hills ; where in one place they have thrown up the Earth , and made a work from one ridge of the Hills to the other , to defend the Country ; and hinder the Turkish Excursions towards Chremnitz : Afterwards we proceeded by that Golden River and yellow Stream which washes all the Ore above till we came to the Town .

Chremnitz is a small Town , but hath large Suburbs , and lies high ▪ St. Johns Church at some distance from it , is thought to stand upon the highest ground in Hungary . This is the oldest Mine-Town , and the richest in Gold of all the seven in these parts , which are these , Schemnitz , Chremnitz , Newsol , Koningsberg , Bochantz , Libeten and Tiln .

They have worked in the Gold-Mine at Chremnitz nine hundred and fifty years ; the Mine is about nine or ten English miles in length , and there is one Cuniculus or Horizontal passage which is eight hundred fathoms long , called the Erbstall . The depth of it is above one hundred and seventy fathoms ; they do not use Ladders to descend into this Mine , but are let down at the end of a Cable , unto which is fastned a sling , or seat of Leather ; the Leather being broad , and divided ordinarily into two or three parts , so that it is to be shifted or changed as you find convenience , and affords no uneasie seat , even to such as are not used to it . And in this manner , whoseever enters the Mine is let down . Through one of the Schachts or perpendicular Pits , of which there are six . 1. That of Rodolphus . 2. Queen Anne . 3. Ferdinand . 4. Matthias . 5. Windschacht , and 6. Leopold . I went down by the Pit of the Emperour Rodolphus , gently descending by the turning about of a large wheel to which the Cable is fastned , one hundred and eight fathoms deep into the Earth ; and after many hours being in the Mine , was drawn out again by Leopoldi Schacht , or Leopolds Pit , or Shaft , streight up above one hundred and fifty fathoms ; a heigh surpassing that of the Pyramids by a third part . At the bottom of which Schacht I was not discouraged to find my self so deep in the earth , for considering that I was yet above three thousand miles from the Center , I thought my self but in a Well . It is built on all sides with Firr-Trees , one laying upon another on four sides from the bottom to the top , and after the same manner all these Mines are kept open where they have not a Rock on all sides .

Many Veins of the Ore run to the North , and to the East ; They work also towards one , two , or three of the clock , as they speak ; for the Miners direct themselves under-ground by a Compass not of thirty two points ( such as is used at Sea ) but by one of twenty four , which they divide as we do the hours of the day into twice twelve . Of the Gold-Ore some is white , some black , some of it red , and some yellow . That with black spots in white is esteemed the best , as also the Ore which lieth next to the black Veins . This Ore is not rich enough to suffer any proof in small parcels , like that of other Mines , whereby to know what proportion of Metal is contain'd in it ▪ but they pound a very great quantity thereof , and wash it in a little River which runs near the Town : The whole River being divided and admitted into divers cuts , runs over the Ore continually , and so washes away the earthy parts from the Metallin , and from a clear River above the Town , by its running through so many works , and over so much pounded Ore , it becomes below the Town a dark yellow Stream , of the colour of the Earth of those Hills . Unless it be upon six days of the year ; two at Christmas , two at Easter , and two at Whitsuntide , when the River it self as well as the Mine-men ceaseth from working , and is permitted to flow clear within its own Banks .

There have been pieces of pure or virgin Gold found in this Mine , some of which I have seen in the Emperour's Treasury , and in the Elector of Saxony's Repository , one piece as broad as the palm of my hand , and others less ; and upon a white Stone many pieces of pure Gold ; but these are very rare .

The common yellow Earth of the Country near Chremnitz , especially of the Hills towards the West , although it be not esteemed Ore , affords some Gold . And in one place I saw a great part of an Hill digg'd away , which hath been cast into the works , washed and wrought in the same manner , as pounded Ore with considerable profit .

Matthias Dollinger the chief Officer at Chremnitz for the Mine-work , hath also lately invented a Mill to pound the Ore finer than it was before ; and by this invention hath obtained a considerable quantity of Gold out of that Ore which otherwise would have yielded none ; in his House I saw many sorts of Minerals , and was very kindly entertained by him ; and when I was at the bottom of the Gold-Mine he sent me down a present of excellent Wine to drink the Emperour's health .

Some passages in this Mine cut through the Rock and long disused , have grown up again ; and I observed the sides of some which had been formerly wide enough to carry their Ore through , to approach each other ; so as we passed with difficulty ; this happens most in moist places , the passages unite not from the top to the bottom , but from one side to another .

They carry their Ore under ground from one place to another ; or to the bottom of the Pit whence it is drawn out , in a Box or Chest which they call a Hundt or Dog ; this runs upon four whels , it is higher behind than before , and hath a tongue of Iron at the bottom , which being fitted into a channel of wood framed in the middle of the bottom of each passage , it can no ways deviate , but keeps alwayes in the middle ; and by this means a little Boy will run full speed with three or four hundred pound weight of Ore or Earth before him , wherever you command him , without any light , through those dismal dark passages of the Mine : and it was very new to me to hear the rattling they make in the Mine , and the alteration of the sound as they are nearer or further from us ; and to see them come with that swiftness out of the Rocks , overturn their little Charriot , where they are to leave their Ore , then turn again and enter those dark Caves with such a force and swiftness .

Not much unlike this is another instrument they have to bring the Ore from the mouth of the Mine , or from the Hills down to the Buchworke , where they pound it and wash it ; but instead of a tongue it hath eight wheels or four rowlers and four wheels , and the way is made with Firr in such manner and at such a distance that the rowlers rowl upon the wood of the Firr-trees . And these rowlers and wheels are so contrived , that these Chests can never overturn nor go out of the way , and a child draws them , and sometimes a dog serves the turn . To one Buchworke alone , they carry every week three or four hundred of these Chests full , and each Chest holds four hundred pound weight .

There were two very bad strong damps in this Mine when I was there , and divers others that had not the like force to suffocate in so small a time . One of these Damps was in a Schacht Puteus or Pit , and the other in a Stall , or right-on passage ; no Lamps would burn in either of them , yet the Miners would venture into them for some short space of time : and we let one man down into that Damp which was in the Pit five or six times ; but pulled him up again as soon as ever we saw his Lamp go out ; this place is most poysonous when the water is high , the vapour then arising more strongly , the other Damp in the Cuniculus they hope to remedy , by perflation , and making or digging another passage into it .

I was informed that there had been twenty eight men killed at one time , by Damps in four Cuniculi , seven in each ; and in the sinking of Leopold's Pit , they were much troubled with Damps , which they remedied in this manner .

They fixed to the side of the Schacht or Pit a Tube from the top to the bottom ; and that not proving sufficient they forced down a broad flat board which covered or stopped the Pit , or couched very near the sides of it on all sides , but where the Tube was : and so forced out all the Air in the Pit through the Tube ; which work they were forced often to repeat . And now they having divers other passages into it , the Air is good and sufficient , and I was drawn up through it without the least trouble in breathing .

Altermans Fore-stall , a Cuniculus five hundred fathoms long , was burned in the year 1642. by the carelesness of a boy wiping the snuff of a Lamp upon the wood ; and fifty men smothered in it ; they were all taken out except one , who was afterwards found to be dissolved by the sharp waters of the Mine , nothing escaping either of flesh or bones , but only some of his cloths .

There is Vitriol in this Mine , white , red , blue and green ; and also Vitriolat waters . There is a substance found , which sticks to the Gold-Ore of small pointed parts like needles , of a purple colour , and shining , the mother of which is yellow like brimstone , it is called by them Antimony of Gold . There are Crystals found here , and some tinctured yellow .

There is a Vitriol-Mine in these Hills nigh the Gold-Mine , about eighty fathoms deep . The Earth or Ore whereof is reddish , and sometimes greenish . This Earth is infused in water , and after three days the water is poured off , and boyled seven days in a leaden Vessel , till it comes to a thick granulated whitish substance , which is afterwards reduced to a Calx-in an Oven , and serves in the making of Aqua fortis , or the separating water used at Schemnitz .

Where they pound the Gold-Ore , they lay a foundation three yards deep of wood , upon which they place the Ore , over which there are four and twenty Beams armed at the bottom with Iron , which break and grind the Ore , it being covered all the while with water . These Beams are moved by four Wheels , one Wheel to six Beams , the water which comes out from the pounded Ore , is let into little Pits or Chests commonly seven or eight one after another ; and afterwards into a large Pit of almost half an Aker of ground , and then after setling let out .

The Gold-Ore in powder or pounded is called Slich , of which that is the richest which is nearest to the Beams where it is first pounded . They work thus day and night continually . The Candles which they make use of are of Firr or some Resinous wood .

They take the Slich washed so long as perhaps in an hundred pound weight , there may be half an ounce or an ounce of Gold and Silver , the greatest part ordinarily Gold , two thirds generally , ( for the Chremnitz Gold-Ore is seldom without some mixture of Silver , and the best of the Schemnitz Silver-Ore yields an eighth part of Gold in proportion to the Silver ; ) to this Slich they add Limestone and Slacken , and melt them together in the melting Furnace .

This first melting produces a substance called Lech ; this Lech they burn with Charcoal to make it lighter , to open its body and render it porous , and then it is called Rost .

To the Rost they add Sand as they see occasion , and melt it again in the melting Furnace ; then let it out into the Pan , and proceed as in the melting of Silver .

They have divers other ways to get the Gold out of the pounded Ore , and I cannot omit to set down this one , in which they proceed without Lead .

They wash the pounded Ore often , and lay it in powder upon Cloths , and by the gentle oblique descending of the water over it , and their continual stirring it , the earthy , clayish , and lighter parts are washt away , while the heavier and metalline remain in the Cloth : not much unlike to this proceeding is that with Sheep-skins and Wooll , which they place either in the water which comes from the works , or in rivulets which have their Heads hid in Hills and Mountains rich in Gold ; so that while the water and fluid parts pass through or over them , the more solid , heavy and metalline are insnared ; and by this way some have obtained the Golden Fleece . But to continue the manner of working with cloths , they wash the cloths in which the Ore doth stick in several Tubs , and the water after some setling is pour'd off from its Sediment ; which Sediment is again washt and stirr'd up in several Vessels and Troughs , till at length they sprinkle Quick silver upon it , and knead it well together for an hour or two ; and then washing it again in a wooden Vessel , after the separating of much of it , which the Quick-silver touches not , by striking this Vessel against their leg , they bring the Gold and Quick-silver together in an Amalgama , to one corner of it . From this Amalgama they strain as much of the Quick-silver as they can through course cloths first , and then through fine . They put the Mass remaining upon a perforated Plate , which they set over a deep Pan placed in the Earth ; in the bottom of which Pan they also put Quick-silver : This Pan they cover , and lute the cover well , and then make a Charcoal fire , upon it , and drive down the Quick-silver yet remaining in the Gold to the rest in the bottom of the Pan ; and then taking out the Gold , they cast it into the fire that it may still become purer .

After some few days having seen the most remarkable curiosities of Chremnitz , I went to Newsol ; passing those Hills which lie on the East-side of Chremnitz , upon the top of one of which lies a vast Stone or Rock alone by it self , near the way-side ; these Hills afford wood for the Service of the Gold-Mine . Passing on further we were not far from Lila , a Village , where they find Quick-silver ; and after we had travelled over the Quick-silver Hills , we came again to the River Gran , upon which Newsol stands ; there is a Bridge of wood to pass the River at this Town , and an handsom building of Piles shoring cross the River to stop the wood thrown into this River , ten miles higher , where the Country is very full of wood : and by this Artifice without labour or charge , it is conveyed to Newsol , to be used in the working of the Copper-Ore , and in the burning , melting , casting , hammering of the Copper .

Newsol is an handsome Town , and hath a large Piazza , at the upper end whereof stands a fair Tower . The Castle also is worth the seeing , in which is the Church covered over with Copper ; within the Church there are many Figures of carved Wood , and some Reliques : but being in the possession of the Lutherans they are not much regarded , though carefully preserved . As I also observed in some Lutheran Churches in Germany , as at Nuremberg , and Magdeburg , where some Reliques had been left ; which they have not parted with , but still keep as rarities .

At this Town , and near unto it , are the greatest Copper-works in Hungary , the body of the Copper being very strongly united to its Stone , Bed , or Ore , the separation of it is effected with great labour and difficulty ; for the Copper-Ore taken out of the Mine is burned and melted fourteen times before that it becomes fit for use ; and first it is melted with a Stone which they call Fluss-stein , and its own dross , and with Kis or a sort of Pyrites . It is afterwards carried to the Rost-hearth , where it is laid upon great stacks or heaps of Billets , and those set on fire under it ; by which means it is burned into a substance called Rost , and this is repeated seven or eight times ; afterwards it is melted again in the melting Furnace , and at two Furnaces more at Mismills , and twice at the Hammer .

Here they also melt Kis which is brought hither from Jesina , which substance melted is serviceable in the melting of Silver .

At Mismills not far from hence they get Silver out of Copper , which they seperate thus : They add Lead to the Copper when it is melted , and take out the Metals melted together in Spoons or Iron Dishes . When it is cold they give it a strong fire again as it lies upon cross Bars , untill the Silver and Lead melts and falls through . When the Copper hath passed its last melting and is fit for use , they cut it in pieces , with great Hammers which are sharp , to move every one of which there is a Mill on purpose , which with great force lifteth up the Hammer : and to shape and form it into Vessels or Plates , they have other Hammers , which are flat or round according as they intend to frame the Copper .

The Governor of these Works at Newsol was highly obliging , and besides the giving us opportunity of seeing every thing we desired , he sent me a handsom present of Wine and Fowls , and wrote a Letter to the Praefect of the Copper-Mine at Herrn-grundt to shew me every thing that was curious and observable in that Mine .

Herrn-Grundt is a little Town seated very high between two Hills , upon a part of Land of the same name , an Hungarian mile distant from Newsol . The Country about was then all covered with Snow after we came to such a heighth , but in the Valleys , and in our journey from Newsol hither we met with none ; so that we found the Air very piercing as we passed towards the entrance of the Mine in Miners habits ; which habit consists of a Linen Coat and Drawers , a stiff round Cap , like the crown of a Hat , a leather Apron turned behind , and two pieces of Leather tyed to the Knees , to defend those parts against any sudden striking against the Rocks , or the fall of Earth upon them . In the Mine we were warm enough .

I went into this Mine through a Cuniculus called Tachstoln , and continued divers hours in the Mine , and visited many of the most remarkable places in it . The sleep descents in this Mine are made by Ladders or Trees set upright , with deep notches or stayers cut in them to stay the foot upon : They are not troubled with water , the Mine lying high in the Hill , so that the water may drain away ; but they are molested with dust , which is choaking and fretting , and also with pernicious damps .

In one place of the Mine they shewed me the manner how they had lately cured a very bad Damp by a great pair of Bellows , which were blown continually for many days ; and in divers other places the Damps were so strong as to hinder the Work-men very much in their labour , and these Damps are not only met with in places where the Earth is full of Clay or the like substances , but also where it is rocky , and one place they shewed me where there had been a pernicious Damp , and yet the Rock so hard , that it could not be broken by their Instruments ; but the descent was all made by the means of Gun-powder ramm'd into long holes in the Rock , and so blown up .

Much of this Mine lies in the Rocks where they have no need of Wood-work to keep it open , and some passages lie between the Rock and the Earth , so that they are kept open upon one side by Firr-Trees , and on the other side with Stone , the passages also are not so regular as at Chremnitz , for many here are neither horizontal , nor near to a perpendicular , but moderately inclining up and down , and there are many large Cavities within . In one place where we descended obliquely to go to a remarkable part of the Mine , we found that the Earth had fallen in and stopped up the passage , but one of our Guides unwilling to go about , and the Earth being yet loose , he made a Burrough into it and digged his way through , although the Earth continually fell upon him and covered him ; and got at length through and tumbled down amongst the Work-men below , with a great quantity of Earth after him ; with which they so speedily laded their Barrows and Hundts , of which I spake before , and the Boys ran away with them with such swiftness , that in a short time he made the passage clear again up to the place where he had left us .

The Veins of this Mine are very large , many of them , such as are termed cumulatoe , and the Ore is very rich , in an hundred pounds of Ore they ordinarily find twenty pounds of Copper , sometimes thirty , forty , half Copper , and even to sixty in the hundred . Much of the Ore is joyned so fast to the Rock , that 't is separated with great difficulty , and in many places the Ore and the Rock are one continued Body or Stone , onely with this difference that one part of the Rock will yield Copper , the other none ; which is known and distinguished by the colour , and easily at first sight , the Copper-Ore being for the most part , especially the best of it , either yellow or black : The yellow is pure Copper-Ore , the black contains also a proportion of Silver .

There are divers sorts of Vitriol found in this Mine , white , green , blue , and a red clear transparent . There is also a green Earth or Sediment of a green Water , called Berg-Grun , used by the Painters ; there are likewise Stones found of a beautiful green and blue colour , and one sort upon which Turcoises have been found , and therefore called the Mother of the Turcois .

There are also two Springs of a Vitriolat Water which turn Iron into Copper , called the old and the new Ziment ; these Springs lie very deep in the Mine , and the Iron is ordinarily left in the water fourteen days . These Waters are very profitable , seeing that the worst sort of Iron , and useless old Iron is hereby turned into the purest sort of Copper , which hath this commendation above other Copper to be more ductile , malleable , and easily melted ; and I have melted it without the addition of any other substance , without difficulty . Whilst the Ore of Copper must run through many Fires and Furnaces to be brought to any thing . Of this sort of Copper I took a good quantity out of the old Ziment , and I took also a piece of Copper of the Figure of a Heart which had been layed in it eleven or twelve days before ; having the same Figure , but as perfectly Iron then , as it is at this day Copper . Some will not have this to be a Transmutation of one Metal into another , but that this Water of the Ziment being saturated with a Vitriolum Veneris , and meeting with such a body so ready to receive it as Mars , it deposes Venus , who immediately insinuates her self so far into Mars , that she doth dividere & imperare , and at last she substitutes her own body , and precipitates that of Mars .

In the changing of Iron into Copper in these Springs , many parts are indeed often separated , and lie at the bottom in powder , but these parts are not Iron but Copper ; and I have taken of this powder out of the Spring , and melted it into excellent Copper ; so that if the Iron be not changed , I know not what becomes of it . This Operation which nature so curiously performs in the Mine , I have since seen attempted to be imitated by Art ; and in my judgment successfully .

After that I had seen many of the most remarkable places in the Mine , I returned to the Verwalter of Herrn-Grundt his House , and put my clothes on again in the Stove : where we were afterwards very kindly entertained . He shewed me a Map of that Mine wherein we had spent most part of that day ; and the delineations of all those places we had been at , with a Scale to measure the lengths and distances of all Passages and Places in the Mine ; and it was very delightful to see so large a Draught or Picture of so fair a Subterraneous City : nor can I term it less , in which there is more building than in many . The extent surpasses most , and the number of the Inhabitants are considerable , their Order admirable , their Watches exact , their Rest undisturbed , grateful after Labour and refreshing , they reposing themselves eight hours in the hollow of a Rock after the same time spent in labour ; besides this Map , he shew'd me many curious Minerals taken out of that Mine , and by heating the Copper-Ore , and casting it into water , made the water like some natural Baths which arise near these Hills . And upon my commending the Ziment water and its strange Operation upon Iron , he presented me with divers fair pieces , and a chain of Copper transmuted in those Springs . They make also very handsome Cups and Vessels out of this sort of Copper , and we drank out of one of them which was gilded over , and had a rich piece of Silver-Ore fastned in the middle of it ; and this Inscription graved on the outside : Eisen ware ich , Kupser bin ich Silber trag ich , Goldt bedeckt mich. i. c. Copper I am , but Iron was of old , Silver I carry , cover'd am with Gold ,

The profit which the Emperor makes by his Mines , is reckoned to amount to an hundred and twenty Thousand pounds sterling yearly . But when they come to deal with deeper and richer veins of Ore , and that there shall be by degrees more of these Vitriolate Copper springs discovered , this revenue will then be encreased . And it is more than probable that time will bring more of them to light ; for at Zolnock , and other places near the Carpathian Hills there are divers of the same springs already made use of . But if furthermore , considering the nobleness of these springs , containing in them the true mature Salt of Venus , some Persons hereafter shall be so fortunate , as moreover to discover and experimentally improve the use of Springs and Fountains saturated with a Vitriolum Lunoe , and learn perfectly how to adapt Metalline Bodies to the adaequate energy , and activity of such waters ; The improvement by transmutation as it is at present more than ten to one , so it will in those dayes amount to above a hundred to one , and the use of these Mines and Metalline labours may hereby effectually prove in times to come one of the Richest Jewels in the Imperial Crown .

From Herrn-Grundt we came to Stubn , a Town three Hungarian miles distant from Newsol , and two from Chremnitz ; where near unto a Rivolet there are divers hot Baths of great esteem , and much frequented ; the water whereof is very clear and sinells of Sulphur , the Sediment green ; it colours the wood over it green and black , but doth not change the colour of Metals so soon as most others ; I left money in it a whole night , which was yet but faintly coloured . The Springs arise underneath , and pass through the holes in the plancher of the Baths .

The heat of these is answerable to that of the Kings-Bath in England ; there are seven in number : The first is the Noblemans Bath , the second the Gentlemans , the third the Country-mans , the fourth the Country-womans , the fifth the Beggars Bath , the sixth for such as are infected with the Lues Venerea , the seventh the Bath of the Gypsies . These Baths are in a Plain encompassed on all sides with Hills , the nighest unto them are towards the East ; and it is the same ridge of Hills which on the other side are so rich in Metals . I bath'd in one of these and met good company that I was detained too long , and received some inconvenience from the heat of the Bath , nor could I commend their custom of eating , drinking , and sleeping much while they bathed .

From Stub'n Bad we went to Boinitz , crossing the River Nitra and leaving Privitz a large Town on the left hand . At Boinitz there are also five natural Baths of a moderate gentle heat delightful to bath in , being much beautified by Count Palfi Palatine of Hungary , and all of them covered under one large roof . The first is the Noblemans Bath built of Stone , descended into on all sides by Stone stairs ; the other four are of wood , very handsomely and well built , where it was a pleasure to us to see the Boys and Girls dive so finely for any thing that we cast in . About this part of the Country there grows very much Saffron .

From Boinitz we went to Westonitz , two Hungarian miles , and from Westonitz the next day , we arrived at Trenschin , which they count four Hungarian miles ; but such long ones they are , that we were travelling from before Sun-rising till eight of the Clock at night , before we could come to our journeys end .

Trenschin is a handsome Town seated upon the River Waag , over which there is a Bridge of wood ; the Piazza is fair , the Jesuites Church handsome , the Castle seated very high , easily discernable at twenty English miles distance , and belonged to the Graff Jellhasey . There are two warm Baths a mile from the Town , and a great number of Springs of Mineral waters in the Country about . Here we met with Count Rothall going from the Emperor to treat with Abaffi Prince of Transylvania his Commissioners at Eperies , where I engaged some of his Attendants to make enquiry into the Salt-Mines of that place , or any other , according to the instructions I left with them , and afterwards I received an Account to this effect .

Half an hours going from the City of Eperies in upper Hungary , there is a Salt-Mine of great note from the first place of descent unto the bottom , it is about one hundred and fourscore fathoms deep . Into this the Miners descend first by Ropes , and at last by Ladders unto the lower parts . The Mine is for the most part in an Earthy , and not a Rocky ground .

The Veins of Salt are large , and there are pieces to be found of ten thousand pound weight : they commonly hew out the Salt into long square pieces of two foot in length , and one in thickness , and for use it is broken and grinded between two Grind stones .

The Mine is cold and moist , but the Salt being a Stone salt , is not easily dissolved , or at least in any great quantity by dampness or moisture ; yet much of the water of the Mine is impregnated with salt , in such sort that being drawn out in large buckets , and afterwards boyl'd up , it affords a blackish Salt , which they give to their Cattle in that Country .

The colour of the ordinary Stone-salt of this Mine is not very white , but somewhat grey : yet being broken and grinded to powder , it becomes as white as if it were refined , and this Salt consists of pointed parts or fossets . Another sort of Salt there is also , which consists of Squares and Tables ; and a third to be found of somewhat stirious or long shoots .

Nor is all the Salt of this Mine of one colour , but of divers ; that which is found grosly mixt with the Earth receives some colour from it ; and even that which is most pure and resembles Crystal , doth often receive tinctures of several colours ; in the middle of a Crystalsalt with long shoots , I have seen a delicate blue ; and at Count Rothall his House at Vienna , I saw a large piece of a fair transparent yellow . There are also some pieces so clear and hard , that they carve them into divers Figures , as if they were Crystal it self . Of all these sorts mentioned I also obtained some pieces , and brought them with me into England .

But it is time to conclude this long discourse of Mines and Minerals , which may seem of little concern unto many ; yet for the satisfaction of the more curious in so considerable a piece of Naturals , in places little known unto us ; and withal , undescribed by any English Pen that I know ; I would not omit this particular account thereof .

I continued my journey near to the River Waag , and came to Nove Mnesto , and from thence the next day to Tirnaw , a City seated upon a Plain , and to be seen at a great distance ; it hath almost recovered it self out of the Ashes that it was reduced into six years before : the day following we got to the Danube again , and lodged that night at Presburg , whereof I have spoken elsewhere ; and then passing the Danube in two Ferry-boats , we travelled by Homburg Tower , by Haimberg Hill , by the Town of Haimberg , by Regelsbrun , Vischet and Swechet , and came to Vienna .

A great part of these Countries of upper Hungaria , through which I travelled , had a different face from that of Austria , and from what they had formerly been . For some places had been burnt or plundred by the Tartars and Turks in the late war , and divers pay contribution to them , so that many live warily and meanly to become less noted : And in divers places their Houses are bare and unfurnished ; and it is well if they have any other Bed than one for the man of the House and his Wife . Even in parts of the Country better provided , and under the Emperor , a great part of the people being of the Lutheran , or the reformed Religion , are under such hard measure and fears that they live in little content , and being of a stout and persevering temper , they may in time become so desperate , that if the Turk should break powerfully in , 't is probable they would not fight so heartily against him as in times past . There are many Calvinists , many Lutherans . They were formerly almost all Lutherans in the Mine-Towns , but now the Officers are of the Roman Church . At Schemnitz a very fair Church was lately taken from the Lutherans ; and they told me that at Boinitz , and the Country about , Count Palfi caused all his Lutheran Tenants to change , or at least to declare the change of their Religion , or else to part with their Houses and Lands : There are also many Anabaptists up and down , more observed for their neat working in Mother of Pearl than any thing else . The Unitarii live in the farther parts of upper Hungary towards Transylvania , and have the commendation to speak generally Latin , even the Hungarian Catholicks are much dissatisfied at the intrusion of the Germans , and their encroaching upon them , they look jealously upon the Court at Vienna , think themselves not regarded according to their merits or ability of their Services , nor the Hungarian Privileges well observed , so that they can scarce dissemble their Discontents , which may in time prove of very bad consequence .

A JOURNEY FROM VIENNA INTO STYRIA , CARINTHIA , CARNIOLA , FRIULI ; Unto the strange Lake of Zirchnitz , to the Quick-silver Mines at Idria , and to other remarkable places in the Alpes .

WHILE I remained at Vienna , I took the pains to see divers places not far distant from it , as Néugebáu , Kalenberg , Closter , Newberg , Itzing , Baden , Laxamburg , Newsidler-See , with others ; and afterwards made a journey unto Venice , not by the Stage-Coaches which keep one constant road , but chose rather to perform it by Horse whereby I might stay in any place , or go out of the road at pleasure .

The first considerable place we saw was Baden , about four German miles from Vienna , a pretty walled Town seated near a part of Mount Cetius , which divided Noricum from Pannonia ; a Rivolet named Swechet passes by it , which afterwards enlarges and runs into the Danube about a German mile from Vienna , there are three Churches , that of the Augustiners , of our Lady , and S. Stephen ; but this place is most remarkable for its Baths which are much frequented from Vienna and these parts . The Springs being numerous and affording nine convenient Baths , two within the Town , five without the Wall , and two beyond a Rivolet called Swechet .

The Dukes-Bath is the largest , about twenty foot square , in the middle of a House of the same Figure , built over it . The vapour passes through a tunnel of Wood , at the top : and the Water is conveyed into the bottom of the Bath , at one corner through wooden pipes and Trees , under the Town-wall , from the Spring head , which rises at a little distance Westward . The Springs of the rest of the Baths rise under them , and let in through holes of the Plancher , for all the Baths are Wainscoted , the Seats , Sides , and Bottom being made of Firr . The Water for the most part is clear and transparent , yet somewhat blewish , and makes the Skin appear pale in it , in the same manner as the Smoak of Brimstone , it coloureth Metals ( except Gold , the colour of which it also heightens ) turning them black in a few minutes . The Coyn of this Country , which is mixed of Copper and Silver , ( having 7/15 of Silver , and 8/15 of Copper ) is in a minutes time turned from a white into a dark yellow , and soon after becomes black . It gives a fine green colour to the Moss and Plants which it washes , and leaves often a scum upon them of a purple , mixed with white As it runs from the Spring-head , it somewhat resembles the Sulphur River in the way from Tivoli to Rome , but is not so strange or stinking nor doth it incrustate its banks .

The Spring head is also considerable , in regard that it rises under a rocky Hill , at some distance from the entrance , and I passed to it about the length of forty yards , through an Arched passage cut in the Rock , which is also a natural stove , ( as that of Tritola and Baiae ▪ ) made by the hot Bath water running under it , most part of the top of this Cave is incrustated with a white substance which towards the mouth becomes harder and stony . I caused some of the Pipes through which the Bath water runs to be opened , and from the upper part of the Pipe . I took some quantity of the Sulphur in powder , it being very like flowers of Brimstone , this being as it were sublimed from the water and not deposed , it being found in the upper part of the Pipe , oleum Sulphuris per campanum dropped into this water , is received into it quietly , Oleum Tartari per deliquium causes an ebullition as in the making of Tartarum Vitriolatum .

The Second Bath within the Wall is our Lady's Bath , about twelve foot broad and twenty four foot long . One end of this is under a Church of the same name . This is fuller of Sulphur than the rest , and more blew , and leaves a yellow flower upon the boards , as the others do a white .

The Third is the New Bath , without the Town near the Gate , when I saw it , it was full of People who were making merry and singing .

The Fourth is the Jews Bath , this hath a partition in the middle , to separate the Men from the Women .

The Fifth is St. John's Bath of a triangular Figure .

The Sixth is the Beggars Bath , alwayes shallow so as they lie down in it .

The Seventh is the Bath of the holy Cross , about two sathoms square , chiefly for the Clergy .

The Eighth is St. Peter's Bath , this is greener than the rest .

The Ninth is the Sower-Bath , this is set about with stone Balastres , and covered with a handsome Cupola and a Lanthorn , the Water is very clear , in the stream of this Bath I have often coloured Money black without touching the Water ; yet the Water it self being once cold changes not the colour of Metals , although they be boyled in it .

The hottest of these Baths have not the heat of the Queens Bath at Bathe in England . They use no Guides as with us , but direct themselves with a short turned Staff .

Here we met with very good Company , and all kind of accommodation at no dear rate . A Captain of the Emperour 's whom I had accompanied to these Baths as a token of his love gave me a Gempskugel which is said to be an excrescence upon the Liver of a wild Goat of Tyrol , and highly cryed up in Germany for a signal remedy against the diseases of the Liver , malignant Fevers and the Plague , and many are so obstinately credulous as to think that whosoever takes it becomes invulnerable for twenty four hours after .

Having bathed in the Baths , and taken a draught of the Town , I left Baden , and the next considerable place was Newstad , one of the chiefest Cities in Austria ; it is of a square Figure with a Piazza in the middle of it , two sides whereof are arched and supported with Pillars : there are four Gates , three whereof are to be seen from the Piazza ; St. Jacobs is the chiefest Church , which hath two Steeples in the Front . The Emperor hath a Palace here of a square Building with four Towers , which are to be seen a great way off , as is also most part of the Town , as lying in a Marish Ground , and in a plain Country ; it is encompassed with a Ditch and two Walls , the one very low , the other seems not strong ; yet as they told me , at one time the Turk could not take it , but left it upon condition that they might take something out of the Town ; which being granted , they took the Pronger or Whipping-Post , and carried it unto Constantinople ; and at another time in the Year 1529. Solyman the Magnificent stormed it seven times in one day , and was every time repulsed . At this place Count Peter Serini and Frangipani were beheaded , as being chief Contrivers in the Hungarian Revolt .

From hence through the Plains we came to Mount Simeren passing by Newkirckel , where there is a Chappel with a little red Pinnacle which they say was built by an English King ; I suppose by King Richard the first , who was kept Prisoner in Austria in his return from the Holy Land , whose Ransom built the old Walls of Vienna . Mount Simeren is a part of Mount Cetius upon the top whereof lies an heap of Stones which make the boundary between Austria and Styria ; the ascent of the Hill is steep and stony ; so that sometimes it takes twenty four Horses or Oxen to draw up a Cart or Coach .

We lodged at Schotwien or Schadtwien , a strange Town seated between Rocks upon the passage of the Hills , the Houses upon the sides of the Rocks are inaccessible but from the Top of the Hills , and looking over the Plains , serve for Watch-Towers ; this is a close strong place , and called by some Claustra Austriae ; having the Mountains on each hand , and shut up with a Gate at each end ; a small current coming down from the Hills , is admitted into the Town under the Wall , which put me in mind of the Picture of the Wall to the Kingdom of China , wherein is expressed the manner of the Rivers running into China , the Wall being still continued over them . From hence I came to Mehrzuschlag , the place where they beat out the Iron into Bars ; so to Keimburg passing by a swist small River named Murtz , then travelled by a Castle belonging to the Family of Stubnberg , which is esteemed one of the Ancientest in Germany , and came to Prug , seated upon the River Mur or Muer , a swift large River , but not navigable , although after it hath passed by Gratz and Rakenburg it enlarges . Prug or Muripons is not ill built considering the Country , and hath a fair Piazza . Another Town of this name I had seen before seated upon the River Leyta , and for distinction called Prug upon the Leyta , so forward by Luheim where the Staple of Iron is . I came to Knitelfeldt and Judenburg still nigh to the River Mur , the next day to Hundtsmark and Newmark , then to Freisach , which some think to have been Virunum , others Vacorium , in sight of Altenhofn , the Castle of Itrowitz , and the Castle of Tottenbrun , which belongs to the Arch-bishop of Saltzburg .

Then to St. Veit or St. Faith , formerly the chief City of Carinthia , seated upon the Confluence of the River Glan and Wunich , it is walled about , hath six Churches in it , a Piazza also , and in the same a remarkable Fountain with a Laver or Bason of white Marble made out of one Stone , which was five of my fathoms in circumference : this noble Antiquity was brought from Saal or Zolfeldt , a place not far off , and abounding with Roman Antiquities .

In sight of Vitopolis or St. Veit , there are four remarkable Hills , as the Hill of St. Veit , St. Vlrick , St. Laurence , and St. Helena , with a Chappel upon each of them , to all these upon one day in the year the Inhabitants go in devotion on foot , although to perform the same they must travel above thirty English miles .

We stayed at St. Veit , and had the divertisement of a Latine Comedy at the Franciscan Convent , it was in May when the higher Hills were covered with snow , but the lower were all green , full of Firr and Larch-trees , it thundred and lightned very much , and as soon as it began they rung their Bells . Many here have great throats , some as big as their heads , many are blind , divers dumb and fools withal ; without the Town there is an Hospital for such as have lost their voice , their wits , or are otherwise oppressed by their great throats , many of them cover their throats , which otherwise are very ill complexioned in cold weather . Men and Women have them , the better sort of People , which live well , drink wine and good beer , are less subject to them . I saw bigger throats in these parts , than any I had observed in the Alpine parts of Savoy .

St. Veit , whose name this place bears , was a zealous Christian who laboured much in the Conversion of these parts , and was persecuted under Dioclesian . Many Churches and Towns do carry his name in other parts of Europe , and the People have an opinion of St. Veit in the curing of that dacing disease called Chorea Sancti Viti .

From hence we travelled to Saal , or Solua , anciently a Roman Colony , and set down in the Map of Wolfgangus Lazius by the name of Colonia Soluensis ; a Field near unto it , is called Ager Soluensis or Zolfeldt , a place very fruitful in Antiquities , many whereof have been carried into other parts : in this Field I saw that much spoken of ▪ Antiquity of the Kings Chair ; it is made of Stone set together in the form of two Elbow-Chairs turned back to back . Upon three of the Stones there are Inscriptions , but surely more ancient than the Chair . At the installing of the Duke of Carinthia , whether he be King , Prince , or Emperor ; either he himself or his Substitute sits in one part of the Chair towards the East , and a Baur or Country-man in the other part of the Chair toward the West ; and among other Ceremonies , the Country-man rises up and presents the Duke with a fat and lean Ox ; the Duke is obliged to take the lean and return the fat one , and afterwards to receive a gentle box on the ear from the Country-man , and so after this manner is installed .

The Church of Saal is very ancient , and hath escaped the fury of the Barbarous Nations ; herein I saw the Tomb of Modestus a Companion of S. Veit , it is a plain Monument , and they have a Tradition here , that the Tomb hath removed it self about a yard nearer unto the Altar than where it was first placed . On the Church Walls are many old Roman Antiquities of good Basso relievo , which were first taken out of Zolfeldt ; those which I chieflly observed were these . A Chariot with two Horses . A Chariot and a man in it . A Wolf licking of fruit fallen from a Tree . Hector fastned unto the Chariot of Achilles as he was drawn about Troy . Four fair Heads unto the middle . Two Wolves , each holding a Horn and a Cup between them , out of which shoots a Vine with Leaves and Grapes , this is over the Porch . Within the Porch is a Cupid holding of a bunch of Grapes . Romulus and Remus sucking of a Wolf . Two figures over the Crucisix by S Christopher , with some others , all which Zolfeldt afforded ; where I also saw many Inscriptions , one upon a stone on the South-side of the Church was this , HERCVLI . E. EPONAE . AVG. PRO SALUTE . IMP. CAES. M. AVR. ANTONINI . PI1 . FE LICIS . INVICTI . also divers Roman Coins of Copper and Silver found in these parts , and I brought away a Medal of Trajan's in Gold .

From thence we came to Clagenfurt or Claudia of old , which is at present the chief Town in Carinthia , a fair four square Town enclosed with an handsom Wall ; the Rampart is very broad ; at each corner there is a Bastion , and one in the middle of each Curtain ; the Streets are strait and uniform as well as the Works ; there is also a very fair Piazza in the middle . For the beauty of this place they are beholden to the Industrious Lutherans while they held this Country : The Piazza is adorned with a Column of Marble , and a Statue of the Virgin upon it , also with a Statue of the Emperor , but above all with a noble Fountain in the middle , over which is a large prodigious Dragon made out of one Stone , Hercules with a Club standing before it , which the people think to be the Statue of a Baur which killed this Dragon in these parts . This was also brought from the above mentioned Field of Saal . There are three noble Massy Fountains observable in these hilly parts , these two of St. Veit and Clagenfurt , and another of white Marble at Saltzburg .

Among the odd Customs of Carinthia there is an old one delivered By Aenaeas Sylvius . of this place , that if a man were vehemently suspected of theft , they hanged him , and three days after judged of the Fact ; if he were found guilty they let his body hang till it was corrupted , if otherwise , they took down the body , buried it upon the publick account , and said prayers for his soul . Clagenfurt was then full of Souldiers , where I had the honour to see Count Lesley the chief Commander , Baron la Hay , and my Lord Peasly who had a Company in the Town , whose singular civilities and favours I cannot sufficiently acknowledge , they obliged me to be at their Table while I stayed , and one day my Lord Lesley carried me in his Barge through a handsom streight cut into the Werd-Sea or Lake of Clagenfurt to a house of pleasure called Loretto , finely seated , and which hath a Chappel in it , built after the same manner with that of Loretto in Italy , which having formerly seen , I was the better able to confirm the exact imitation of it . Count Lesley is related to Montecuculi , and so was pleased to give me Letters to Vienna , and to other parts : The honour I had to know the right honourable the Earl of Norwich , Earl Marshal of England , did much encrease my kind reception among them , whose worthy name I found not only known in the Dominions of the Empire , but afterwards also in Turky .

The Fountaine in the Piazza of Glaa●nfurt● & Chief City of Carinthia .

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The manner of passing through this Hill was surprizing unto me , having never read nor heard hereof before , I thought it might be some work of the old Romans , but I was afterwards informed that it was much later , and that if former time there was no passage into Carniola this way , but they went about by Villach . At first sight of this hole when I was far below it , I conjectured it might be th● ha●itation or Chappel of some Hermit , but could not imagin how he should come unto it , till at last by the winding and turning of the way up the Hill , I did not onely pass through it my self , but met with divers Passengers who came out of Carniola , and it is so well contrived , that the Country carriages and Carts pass through it every day .

In ascending this Hill we had bad weather , rain and fierce hail , and and the snow laid still by the way-side ; and being so high at the time of a strom , I had an opportunity to see the Clouds descend , and after it was past to ascend again so high , as to got over part of the Mountain , and a stream of them passed through the hole out of Carniola into Carinthia , oppositely unto us who passed out of Carinthia into Carniola , or out of Karnten into Craen .

This noble passage being already so well contrived , and in the Country of a laborious and industrious people , is like to be continued , who remove the snow with great pains in the Winter , and keep the way passable , and as we continually ascended till we came to this Grotto , so when we were once got through it we always descended , & came first to S. Anna , two English miles downward , then to Newstuttel a German mile and half further still descending , and proceeded forward till we came to Crainburg , which is thought to have been formerly Carnodunum , a good Town seated upon the River Savus , from whence through a fair Plain four German miles long , we came to Labach or Lubiana the chief City of Carniola ; the River Labach runs through it , which falls afterwards into the Savus . It is an handsome City with a Castle seated upon an Hill which over-looks two large Valleys to the North and South , and hath a fair Prospect of many Hills and Castles , but being commanded but another Hill not far from it , it is neglected , although we find that it hath endured a strong Siege , for while the Emperor Frederick was receiving the Crown at Aken , his Brother Albertus and Count Vlrick took the advantage to besiege it , but it made so good resistance that the Emperor had time to raise the Siege and destroy the Army . At Labach I happily met with Mr. Tosh a Scotch Apothecary in that Town , who was very civil unto me , informing me of the places about , and shewing me many Curiosities , and the several Minerals of those parts .

This place is conceived to be old Nauportus famous for the landing of the Argonautes , who setting forth from Argos Pelasgicum in Thessaly sailed unto Colchos on the East side of the Euxine Sea , but being pursued by the King of Colchos his Vessels dispatched after them , they declined returning by the Hellespont , but bearing Northward entred the mouth of Ister or Danubius , and passed up the River till they came to the concurrence of the Danubius and the Savus , and taking up the Savus they came to the River Labach , and went up that River landing about this place anciently called Nauportus , and then travelled to the Adriatick Sea and returned unto Greece . So that in my travels I had been near their setting out in Thessaly , and at the place of their landing in Carniola .

From hence we travelled towards the Zirchnitzer-See , or famous strange Lake of Zirchnitz having the Marshes on our right , hand , and the Hills on our left till we came to Brounitza , and then passing over them we came to Zirchnitz , a Town of about three hundred Houses , which gives the name unto the Lake , here I applyed my self unto Andreas Wifer the Richter or Judge of the Town who afforded me directions and accommodations for the viewing of the Lake ; and went down to Seedorff , a Village half a mile nearer the Lake , and then to Niderdorff , where I took Boat and spent some time upon the Lake .

This Lake is about two German miles long , and one broad , encompassed with Hills at some distance , and upon the South-side lies a Forest part of Birnbaumer Forest , which extends a great way , wherein are many Dear , wild Boars , Foxes , Wolves and Bears .

Every year in some part of the Month of June , the water of this Lake descends under ground through many great holes at the bottoms ; and in the Month of September returns again by the same holes ; and with a speedy ascent , springing and mounting up to the heighth of a Pike , and soon covering that tract of ground again . When the water is under-ground , the Earth makes a speedy production of of Grass yielding food for Cattel in the Winter , and at the same time , Hares , Deer and Boars resort to this place out of the Country , and the fore-mentioned Forest , and are often taken by the people .

The Lake affords plenty of Fish , but they fish but by permission , for the Prince of Eckenberg is Lord thereof , and a good part of the Country about , but upon the going away of the water , all have liberty to take Fish , which they do by standing in the water by the holes , and so intercepting their passage take great plenty of them , which otherwise would follow the water under-ground , and not returns again until September . I could not hear that any unknown Fishes were brought up by the water , but those which come up are of the same kind with those which went down , which are a kind of Carp , Tench , Eels , and such as are common in other Lakes ; and they are rather gainers than Loosers hereby , when they come up , for the Fish having spawned before , the fry that goes down hath had about three months growth under ground when they are brought up again .

The Ground under the Lake is very unequal , and the water not near of the same depth , but in some places four foot , and then suddenly again twenty yards deep : and because the Fish frequent the Valleys or deeper places , more than the Hills or eminent parts , the Fishermen who know the place wet and dry , have given unto seven of these Valleys peculiar names , which in the Sclavonian , the Language of that Country , are these ,

Vodanas . Reshetu . Sitarza . Ribishkiama ▪ Naknisha . Levishe . Kottel .

I passed over the five first mentioned Valleys , and went to a noted Stone called the Fishers Stone , by the appearance whereof they can conjecture how soon the water will descend , and by an Hill , which when the water is high becomes a pleasant Island , and then returned .

They can give no account that this Lake hath failed any year to descend and arise again , or have any tradition how long this property of the Lake hath been observed . Some Lakes have been made by Earth-quakes , but it is more probable that this hath been from all Antiquity , and according to the best conjectures , this is the Lugea Palus of Strabo , and therefore more strange that the Ancients are silent in this remarkable account .

The nearest Sea unto this Lake is the Sinus Tergestinus , and Sinus Flanaticus , the Gulf of Trieste , and the Gulf of Quevero . And not many miles from hence are the Heads of divers considerable Rivers , as that of Labach , the Corcoras or Gurk , the Colapis or Culp , which run into the Savus . The Vipao or amnis frigdus which runs into Lysonso by Goritia , and divers more , but whither these Rivers arise where the Lake falls , I could not learn .

The Ground not far from this Lake is very hollow and full of Caverns , and I observed many Caverns and deep holes in other parts of Carniola somewhat like unto Elden hole in Darbyshire , and I was informed by the most considerable persons at Zirchnitz that the Prince of Eckenberg had the curiosity to go into one of them , and came out again upon the side of an Hill .

I was upon consideration whether I should go from hence unto Tergestum now Trieste , a Port-Town of the Emperor 's in the Adriatick-Sea , and then by Ship to Venice , but having been in many Mines before I had a desire also to see the famous Quick silver Mine at Idria in the County of Goritia ; and parting from Zirchnitz I passed by Lovecq , and travelled over Mountainous parts till I came to Idria , which is encompassed with Hills on all sides , and a River of the same name runs by it , which although Leandro Alberti terms superbissimo fiume d'Idria , yet I found it small and shallow at the time when I was there , upon plentiful rains howsoever it proves sufficient to convey down the Firr-trees , and other wood required in the building of the Mines , and also for fuel necessary in the service of them ; and to this end there is an handsome work of Piles made slopeing a-thwart the River , ( after the same manner as I observed at Newsol in upper Hungary cross the River Gran ) to stop the Trees which are cut down and cast into the River above this place .

What is chiefly considerable in this Town are the Quick-silver Mines , very well known to the neighbouring parts , and exceeding useful to many at greater distance .

The entrance into these Mines is not high or upon an Hill , but in the Town it self , whereby they are somewhat the more troubled with water , against which they are provided with many excellent Engines and Devices , as at other deep Mines ; the deepest part of the Mine from the entrance is between one hundred and twenty , and one hundred and thirty fathoms .

Of the Quick-silver of this Mine they have two sorts , the one called Jungfraw , that is virgin Quick-silver , the other plain Quick-silver , virgin Mercury they call that which discovers it self without the help of fire , and is either plainly to be seen in the Earth or Ore , or falls down in little drops in the Mine , and sometimes streams out in good quantity ; as about seven years ago it ran out of the Earth at first in a stream as small as a thred , and afterwards as big as a Pack-thred , but ceas'd in three or four days .

That also is accounted virgin Quick-silver , which having no need to pass the fire , is separated by water first in a Sieve , and afterwards in a long Trough , having very small holes at one end , so that there is in a manner two sorts of Virgin Mercury ; the one running out and discovering it self without labour , the other requiring some way of extraction and separation , though not so high an one as by fire .

Plain Quick-silver they name that which is not at first perceived by the eye , or falls from the Ore , but is forced out by fire , and this they obtain out of the Ore , or out of the natural Cinnabar of Mercury which they dig out of this Mine . The Ore is of a dark colour mixed with red , but the best is a hard Stone which they commit not presently to the fire , but powder it grosly and work it by the sieve , that so if any Virgin Quick-silver be found in it , it may be separated in this manner , and what doth not pass the sieve , may be separated by fire in Iron Furnaces , fifty of them in a fire .

The Quick-silver-Ore of this Mine is the richest of all Ores I have yet seen , for ordinarily it contains in it half Quick-silver , and in two parts of Ore one part of Quick-silver , and sometimes in three parts of Ore , two parts of Quick-silver .

I went into the Mine by the Pit of St. Agatha , and came up again by that of St. Barbara , descending and ascending by Ladders ; I ascended at one of six hundred and thirty nine staves , or eighty nine fathoms . Siserus in K●rcher's Mundus subterraneus makes such a dreadful description of this Mine , that it might discourage any from attempting the descent , which makes me doubt , whether he had been in any other Mine , especially where the descent is made by Ladders .

In a Laboratory , where the Quick-silver is separated by fire , I saw an heap of sixteen thousand retorts of Iron , every one of which costs a Crown at the best hand from the Iron Furnaces in Carinthia : herein are also at one time eight hundred retorts , and as many recipients employed together in drawing over the Quick-silver in sixteen Furnaces , fifty in each Furnace , twenty five of a side , twelve above , and thirteen below of each side .

June 12. 1669. When I was there they carried out forty saumes of Quick-silver into Foreign parts , each saume containing three hundred and fifteen pound weight to the value of four thousand Ducats of Gold , though the conveyance be not easie , for it is carried upon Horses backs , two small Barrels upon each Horse , yet some is sent as far as Chremnitz in Hungary for the use of the Gold Mine , and some into Sweden , and other remote parts .

In the Castle I saw three thousand saumes of Quick-silver together in Barrels ▪ the Quick-silver being first made up in double Leather ; and in another House as much rich Ore as can be destilled in two years , except they have great plenty of rain to bring down the wood , but the Hills being high about them , it snows at the tops of them oftner than it rains .

Those Strangers who come into the Castle of Idria , have their names set down in a Register-Book , with the Country of which they are Natives , and the Catalogue is large , but of English men there are few ; of late years onely Mr. Evelyn and Dr. Pope , with their Company , of whose observations there is an handsome account in the Philosophical Transactions some time since . This place is the more grateful to Strangers in respect that it being a Frontier Town , and bordering upon divers Nations , many Languages are understood here , and I observed that there were five spoken freely by the Officers and better sort of People , besides French which was not excluded from this place , though not so esteemed or desired . viz. Friulian , Sclavonian , German , Latin and Italian .

Leaving Idria I passed over Swartzenberg or the black Mountain , and descended about ten miles through a stony Country far worse than the Crau or stony Plain in Provence , and came to Adoshini , and then to Goritia Goritia . or Noreja of old , the chiefest place of the Country of Goritia , well seated and over-looking a fair Plain to the South-West . The Emperors Governour of this Country lives in the Castle , and hath had of late a Guard granted unto him , having been set upon by a Gentleman of the Country , who for that fact was banished , and his House rased .

Travelling in the night , we had sometimes about us a great number of large Glow-worms , which put into papers gave a dim light ; and in some places in the Plains the Air was full of flaming flies affording some delight to us .

The Carniolians speak a Dialect of the Sclavonian , but in these parts they have a Language called Lingua Fullana , or Friulana ; he that speaketh Italian may understand much thereof . The Lords Prayer in that Language begins thus , Pari Nestri ch' ees in Cijl see Santificaat tuto nom , &c.

That neat kind of Acer whereof Violins and Musical Instruments are made , prospers well in these parts , as also in Carniola and Saltzburglandt , where they make Trenchers and Tables of it , and at an easie rate ; I brought some of the fair broad Leaves from thence .

Leaving Goritia I passed the River Sontius or Lisonzo which arising in the Hills above runs into the Adriatick Sea . Near this River , Odoacer who had made himself King of Italy , was slain in a Battel by Theodorick King of the Goths . And hither the Turks came under the command of Asa-Beg in the year 1477. in the time of Mahomet the Great , overthrew Jeronimus Novello Count of Verona and a famous Commander of those times , slew him in Battel , together with his Son and most of his Commanders , destroyed a Party of three thousand Venetians , and set a hundred Villages on Fire . Afterwards travelling on through Meadows , I came unto the strong and well fortified City of Palma Nova , built since to hinder the like incursions .

All this long Circuit until we came within a mile of Palma Nova we were in the Emperors Dominions , which are much larger than commonly apprehended , and having sooner or later seen the greatest part thereof , I cannot but be of that opinion , for he possesses all Austria , Styria , Carinthia , Carniola , part of Croatia , Istria , and Friuli , part of Alsatia , the large County of Tirolis , the large Country of Bohemia , Moravia , Silesia , and some part of Lusatia , and a considerable part of Hungaria ; from Presbourg to Tockay and Zathmar , above two hundred and fifty miles , and the Inhabitants of these Countries being an hardy stout and valiant People , I cannot but think him a great and powerful Prince , and an happy Bulwark of Christendom against the Turks .

Palma Nova . Palma Nova in Friuli is the largest regular Fortification I have observed , it hath nine Bastions , bearing the names of some noble Venetians , which have little to be excepted against but their round ears , on each Curtain there are two Cavalliers , the Rampart is much higher than the Wall , upon which there are planted a hundred good Guns , and many more ready upon all occasions , the Ditch is thirty paces broad , and twelve deep ; it is kept dry to render the Town more healthful , but may be filled with water upon occasion , as that of Vienna , much whereof is kept dry least it should injure their deep Cellars ; there are three Gates , Porta Maritima , Porta di Cividal , and Porta di Vdine . Between the Porta Maritima , and the Porta di Vdine lie these three Bastions Foscarini , Savorgnan and Grimani . Between the Porta di Vdine and Porta di Cividal are three others named Barbaro , Dona and Monte. And between the Porta di Cividal and the Porta Maritima are these three . Garzoni , Contarini and Villa Chiara . They were then making one fair Half-Moon before each Gate : In the Center of the City is fixed a Standard over a Triple Well , in the middle of a Sexangular Piazza , from whence a man may see the three Gates and six Streets quite through the Town . The Piazza is beautified with the Front of the Domo Church , divers Statues , and an Obelisk much gilded .

In the middle of the Bridge there is a Draw-bridge made with such Artifice , that the sentinel discovering any force approaching , may by onely touching a certain Iron with his foot draw up the Bridge ; many handsom contrivances for Draw-bridges I had seen in other parts , sometimes many upon one Bridge , and not onely one after or behind another , but also sometimes two or three on a brest , the outermost ones serving for the retreat of the foot , that in the middle for the Horse and Carriages . Some Draw-bridges are not to lift up , but to be drawn on one side , and so by onely turning of it like to the opening of a Gate Passengers are conveyed over the Moat and landed ; but those which pleased me most were the Draw-bridges at Amsterdam , which part in the middle , and a Vessel though under sail may pass them , without the help of any one on shoar , for the Mast , head , or break-water of the Ship ▪ bearing against the Bridge in the middle , opens it .

At Palma Nova the Venetians have made a cut from the Sea to the Town capable of good Vessels , and broad and deep enough to bring provisions and supplies upon occasion to this place .

This is at present esteemed one of the noblest Fortifications in Europe , begun by the Venetians 1594. and is a notable Bulwark of their State and Italy , for this way the Huns and barbarous Nations passed into Italy , and this way the Turks have formerly made in-roads almost as far as Treviso .

Having seen many of the chief Fortifications in Europe , I had the greater desire to take a view of this , because it carries so great a fame , and is said to have been contrived by Military advice from all parts , and as also because the Venetians would have it believed to be the noblest Fortification , not onely in Europe , but in the World ; I heartily wish they may never know a complete Turkish Army before it , especially when ever they are in no good condition to relieve it . If the Emperor , through whose Countries the Turks must pass to come to this place , and the Republick hold firm , it will be hard for the Turk to come unto it , and if the Turk should be at such a peace with the Venetians as may bind up their Fleet from assisting the other parts of Italy , he shall not need to attempt it or make his way into Italy by that place , for whether the Naval Forces of Italy without the assistance of the Venetians , be able to resist a complete Turkish Fleet , so as to hinder landing and falling upon that Country some other way , is much to be doubted .

From Palma nova I went to Maran St. Vito , a Port Town of the Venetians in Friuli , so named from St. Vito , who is said to have been buried in this place .

At this Town we took a Felluca , and sayling by the shoar of Friuli or Patria , we passed by Porto di Taiamento , and came to Cahorle . In this Island there is a Church dedicated to the Blessed Virgin seated upon the Sea-shoar nigh the Waves , yet said never to be overflowed by the Sea , being as it were the Halcyon Nest of its Patroness , and a place of remarkable devotion . On this shoar we refreshed our selves and were divertised at Sea in seeing them take Shell-fish , and then passing by Livenza , where the Sea came formerly up as high as Opitergium , and afterwards by Porto di Piave , I arrived at Venice entring by the Porto de Castelli passing by the Carthusians Convent , and landed at the Piazza of St. Mark .

Here I found the whole City highly concerned for the Hazardous State of Candia , which was lost soon after , Dominico Cantarini the present Duke was sedulous in that affair . The Voyage of Ghiron Francisco Marchese Villa , General of the Infantry of Candia , with a journal of a Siege had been lately published , and was in many hands .

There was also a supply of Auxiliaries in good readiness ; it was at that time a more than ordinary hot Season , and some of our English Sea Captains and Masters told me , that they had seldom met with such hot weather even between the Tropicks .

Having formerly had a view of Rome , Naples , Florence , and the great Cities of Italy , and passed some time at Padoa a few years before , I made but a short stay about Venice , and having reviewed what was most considerable , and renewed my acquaintance with some worthy courteous Friends at Venice and Padoa , Mr. Hales the Conful , Mr. Hobson , Dr. Cadined , and others . I disposed my affair for my return to Vienna the ordinary way .

In order thereto I took Boat at Venice and landed at Mestre a pretty Town , and the best place for accommodation for such as travel into Germany by Tirol , or into Austria by Friuli ; from hence I travelled ten miles through a pleasant plain Country till I came to Treviso or Tarvisium , which gives the name unto the Country about , La Marca Trevigiana , a handsome City adorned with good Houses , Churches , Towers and Fountains . The clear River Sile or Silo runs through it , and afterwards into the Sea between Mestre and Murano ; it abounds in good Wines and Fruit , and was a chief Seat of the Lombards in these parts . This old City , after having run various fortunes and been under the subjection of the Huns , and other conquering Nations , and sometimes obeyed the Signori della Scala , and the Carraresi was united to the State of Venice in the year 1388. It was converted to the Christian Faith by Prosdochimus a follower of St. Peter . Eight miles from hence stood the Ancient City Altinum founded by Antenor , and destroyed by Attila .

From thence I came to Lovadina , and crossed the great River Piave , Plavis , or Anassus , which arising in the Mountains , passes by the Cities of Belluna and Feltre , then to Concian or Coniglian , and next to Sacille or Sacillum , formerly a Bishops See under the Patriarch of Aquileia , a pleasant and well-built place esteemed the Garden of the Republick , and seated by the River Livenza or Liquentia , which passing by Motta runs into the Gulf of Venice .

Here I took a guide to conduct me through the Plains and Meadows , and came to Spilimbergo , where I again took a Guide to cross the swift River Taiamento or Tiliaventum ; this is esteemed the greatest River in Friuli , arising above in the Julian Alpes , and running down into the Adriatick Sea , and often over-flowing a great part of the plain Country . This swift River put a stop to the incursion of the Turks when Scander Bassa of Illyria broke into Friuli with twelve thousand Horse and destroyed all before him , in the Reign of Sultan Bajazet the Second .

Not far from Spilimbergo , I passed a neat River or notable Cut called La Brentella , sixteen miles long , made by the Venetians for the better bringing down of wood from the Mountains to be used in the making of Glasses at Muran ; it is all paved with a good Stone , bottom and sides , the bottom is round , so that it is somewhat like a Tube opened or split in two .

Then I passed by St. Daniel seated upon an Hill by Hospitaletto , and came to Vensone , a Town seated at the beginning of the Hills , and formerly the limit of the Venetian Dominions ; thence by Rejuta to La Chiusa , a place remarkable for the streight passage of the Alpes , where the Venetians keep a guard , and shut up the passage every night ; from thence I came to Ponteba or Ponte Fella upon the River Fella , the exact Confines between the Venetian and Imperial Dominions , and surely a man can seldom pass more clearly and distinctly from one Country unto another than in this Town ; on one side of the Bridge live Italians , Subjects unto the State of Venice , on the other side Germans , Subjects unto the Emperor . Upon the one side their Buildings , their manner of living , their empty Rooms , large Windows , Iron Bedsteads show them to be Italians : On the other side immediately their Stoves , higher Bed-steads , Feather-beds one over another , square Tables , and their Bason and Cloth by the Wall declare them to be Germans ; the Bridge it self is also half Italian , half Dutch , one part being built of Stone , and the other of great Trees laid over after the German fashion of making bridges . Between Vensone and Po●teba there are many great Cascata's or falls of waters ; but of several passages of the Alpes this seemed unto me the best and most easie .

In these Mountainous places I was entertained with strange stories of the Snow which covers these Hills in the Winter , as how many pikes length the Snow was deep in some places , how round the Country would look when all the craggy Rocks were covered , how a Snow-ball thrown down from a Mountain would so gather and augment in the fall , as to do great mischief in the Valley , and that if the smallest Bird should but scrape with her foot at the edge of an high Hill , that little beginning might so encrease in the descent , upon a thaugh , as to over-whelm an House at the bottom .

From hence by Tervis , and Tirl , unto Villach , or Villach , an handsome Town , and one of the chiefest in Carinthia ; but before I came to Villach I went to see the Natural Baths which were not much out of the way at the foot of an Hill about an English miles from the Town and in good esteem . There are two clear Sulphureous Baths , but very gently warm , and have an acid and no unpleasant taste ; the bottom is not planchered nor paved , but hath its own natural Spring and Settlement with it ; yet into one there is a hot Spring let in which arises by it ; they are large and have stairs to descend into them , with little Rooms of wood about them for accommodation , they are covered over , and they bathe in them cloathed with shirt and drawers as in Austria .

Not far from hence is a Lake called the Ossiacker See , from Ossiack a Town upon the side thereof , and is one of the most considerable Lakes in Carinthia , there being besides it , these which are remarkable , the White Lake , the Millstatter , the Word , and the Forchten ; this Lake doth not onely abound in Fish , but affords great plenty of Ossiacker Nuts , which the people eat , and some make Bread of ; which notwithstanding upon examination I found to be no other than very large Seeds of Tribulus Aquaticus , or water Gallthorps .

From Villach I soon came to the Werd See , and keeping it continually on my right hand , I travelled by the side of it till I came to Clagenfurte , and then passed again to St. Veits , where I met Mr. Donellan , from whom , upon my former desires to him , I received an account of the great Lead Mines in upper Carinthia at Bleyberg , where they have worked eleven hundred years , and the Pits are deep ; Federnus Stollen or Cuniculus is an hundred and ten fathoms deep in the Earth , and the Hills so high about it , that upon the melting of the Snow in the Spring , there is often much hurt done , the Snow rowling and falling in such vast heaps that nothing is able to resist it , so that in the year 1654. it fell so vehemently that it destroyed and carried away sixteen Houses . He presented me also with many handsome natural Curiosities collected by him in those parts , one of which among the rest I cannot but mention which was a rich large fair piece of natural Cinnabar found in Crewalt , or in the Forest of Cre , two German miles from St. Veit's in the Lordship of Oosterwitz , where there hath been great quantities found out , for the Herr von Staudach above thirty years ago , as he was hunting in this Forest , being thirsty and laying down to drink out of a little stream which runs from the top of the Hill , he perceived the stream to be full of Cinnabar , but since it hath been so diligently searched after , that without working and digging for it , there is little to be found .

From St. Veitz I continued my journey by Friesach , where formerly there was a Gold Mine , and then by Newmark , Hundtsmark , Peltsolz , Knïtelfeldt , Luihm , Prug , Keimberg , Mehrz-u-Schlag , Schadtwien , Newkirckel , Newstadt , Solinaw , Traskirchel , Newdorff , to Wien .

This my return from Venice to Vienna , about three hundred and fifty Italian miles , was the most quiet journey I ever made , for not meeting with good Company I performed it alone , and upon one Horse ; and although there are several Nations , and no less than four Languages spoken upon this road , yet I met with no disturbance from any , nor did any one ask from whence I came , or whither I would go , no trouble as to Bills of health , and good accommodation in the Inns at an easie rate , they are for the most part a plain People , make good Souldiers , little mutinous , but obedient to commands , and hardy , and are of good use and service unto the Emperor .

In my travels in Germany I seldom failed to meet with Jews , but in this journey I met with none , or such as I could not well distinguish , for though there were then whole Villages of Jews in Austria , yet they were prohibited in Styria , and severely banished out of Carinthia , so that for those Jews who travelled between Venice and Vienna ; the Emperor dispences with them as to their Ruff , and the Venetians as to their red Hat .

To say any thing of Vienna may seem superfluous , divers having written thereof , and it might fall better in , if ever I should describe my journey from the Low Countries to Vienna , and from Vienna by the way of Moravia , Bohemia , Misnia , Saxonia unto Hamburg ; mean while I would no longer defer to give some account of places less known or less described in Pannonian , Dacian , Maesian , Graecian , Noricum , and Illyrian Countries , which in their proper order are delivered in this Work .

In my Travels through Hungaria and the Imperial Provinces , I could not but take notice of some Assertions which I could not verifie .

Belgrade is commonly counted to be in Hungaria , and so described by some Authors , but if strictly considered it is seated in Servia , or Maesia Superior , beyond the bounds of Hungaria .

That St. Jerome was a Pannonian may be granted , but that he was a Native of Hungaria , strickly taken may be doubted , for he was born in Stridon , now conceived to be Stredon or Streyna , on the inward or Western side of the River Mur , before it runs into the Dravus , and is accounted in Steirmark .

It is said by Plinie Cursus Savi 150. mille passuum , that the course of the Savus is an hundred and fifty miles , which if accounted from the head is much too short , and not much more then half the measure thereof .

That the River Savus runs into the Dravus , seems affirmed by Strabo , Vicinus Nauporto fluvius est Corcoras qui merces accipit , hic in Savum influit , Savus in Dravum , that is , Not far from Nauportus is the River Corcoras or the Gurk which receives the Merchandises , this runs into the Savus , and the Savus into the Dravus , whereas the Savus never runneth into the Dravus , and when it enters the Danube at Belgrade is about an hundred miles from it .

The distance which Strabo makes between Aquileia and Nauportus or Labach of four hundred furlongs or fifty miles , though somewhat too short ▪ may be fairly tolerated , but what he delivers of the space between Tergestum or Trieste , and the Danube not to be made out . Iter à Tergesto ad Danubium , Stadiorum circiter mille & ducenta , that the Lib: 7. journey from Trieste to the Danube was about one thousand and two hundred furlongs , or an hundred and fifty miles , which is too short a measure unto the nearest part of the Danube , which will make about two hundred and fifty miles ; but the Ancients might easily err herein , since some of them were mistaken in the true course of the Danube , which they conceived to have one branch to run into the Adriatick Sea .

I went this Journey when the Sun was in Cancer , in the hottest time of the year , and the heat was very offensive to me in the great Plains of Friuli , and Austria ; but in the Alpes it was much more moderate , and the Country was all green , and pleasant ; when on the contrary all the Grass in Austria was burned up by the Sun , and if there were not a continual breeze about the middle of the day upon all great Plains , especially in Southern Countries , the heat would be intolerable ; and I could not but take notice how pleasantly the poor Peasants in the Alpine Countries divertised themselves in the Fields , and after their labour would be lively and brisk , sometimes play at Cards , with Cards of a span long , such as they have in those Countries , while the rich Country-men in Austria were faint and gasping for breath , nor did it any thing avail them that Austria was more Northern then Styria or Carinthia , for there may be as much difference as to the temperature of the Air , and as to heat and cold in one mile , as in ten degrees of Latitude , and he that would cool and refresh himself in the Summer , had better go up to the top of the next Hill , than remove into a far more Northern Country . I have been ready to freeze on the top of a Hill , and in an hours time after have suffered as great inconvenience from the heat of the Valley ; at the rising of the Sun I have been upon a Hill with a clear sky , and good weather , and have seen a Valley incompassed with Mountains and covered all over with Clouds much below us , the Sun shining upon the upper part of the Clouds made them appear like fine Down or Wooll , and made the softest sweetest lights and shadows imaginable ; afterwards when we descended into this Valley under the Clouds we had no such pleasant Prospect , but were rained upon the most part of the day . In that hot Country of Arabia Travellers complain most of the cold they suffer in passing the Hills . The Mountains in Italy and Spain are some of them covered with Snow and Ice all the Summer long . I have heard that Mount Atlas is so also , from Dr. Butler who lately travelled in those parts , and from others ; when in Great Britain there is no such thing . At London we have Winters for the most part favourable , when Captain James who went to discover the North-west passage , and to search if there were any communication between the Atlantick Ocean and the South Sea in the Northern part of America , as there is in the Southern , suffered more hardship in the same degree of Latitude then the nine English men who were left all the Winter in Greenland , and Baffin , on the contrary , upon the same design had a pleasant Voyage in an open Sea , and met with Inhabitants upon the Shoar , till he came within nine degrees of the Pole . But I shall wander too far out of the way , and therefore will put an end to this Discourse .

A JOURNEY FROM NORWICH TO COLEN IN GERMANY .

IN the year 1668. I left the large and pleasant City of Norwich , and went by land to Yarmouth , a Port Town in Norfolk , at the mouth of the River Hierus or Yare ; large , fairly built and populous , very considerable for the great Herring fishing in the Autumn , and the commerce it maintains in the Streights ; Baltick , British and German Seas : With Italians , French , Spaniards , Dutch , Danes , and Swedes . I was here nobly entertained by that worthy and obliging person , Sir James Johnson , who also furnisht me with Letters of Credit , to Amsterdam , Franckfort , Venice and Vienna ; Whereby I was readily and handsomely accommodated in all Parts where I had afterwards occasion to travel .

August the 14. about six a Clock at Night I went aboard the Angel-Ketch in Tarmouth Road , a Vessel of about 55 Tuns , and we immediately set sayl for Rotterdam ; we left St. Nicholas-Sand on the Larboard , and after that the Nowles , a new Sand , not taken notice of to be raised above twelve years before . We kept our course all night , East and by South , and East South-East . The Sea burned at the head of the Ship at the beginning of the night , but the Moon rising there appeared nothing but froth . In the morning we discovered Gravesandt Steeple . It is the custom upon all this coast to send out Pylot-boats continually to meet all Ships at Sea , and furnish them with Pylots to bring them through the sands , and no Ship is to refuse one : Having taken in our Pylot , we soon discovered Goréé Steeple , and then the Briel . We entred the River Mosa , or Maes , a Large and noble Stream , The Mae● ▪ which arising in the Mountains of Vauge , or Vogesus , passing by Verdun , Dinant , Namur , Lie●e , Maestricht , Ruremond , Venlo , and many considerable Places , doth here fall into the Ocean , we had a very pleasant passage up the River , sayling by many neat Villages , as Maese-sluys , Schedam , De●fshaven , and handsome rowes of Trees upon the shore , and arrived at Rotte●dam about six at night . This is one of the three chief passages by Sea into Holland , the other being by Flushing and the Texel . The nearest cut out of England into Holland is from Laistoffe Point to Gravesandt , which is 28 Leagues , and the deepest part of the Sea is about 28 Fathoms . There lay two of the greatest Ships Rotterdam . in Holland at that time near Rotterdam , the Crane and the Wassenaer ; this latter built in lieu of that in which Admiral Opdam was blown up , fighting against his Royal Highness the Duke of York , now King of Great Britain , France and Ireland , &c. who thus early exposed his life to these extream hazards for the safety of England and his other Kingdoms . The Heads or Keyes between which we entred the Town by water are handsome , and Ships of great burden are received into the middle of divers streets without difficulty , ( their Channels being deep and large ) the houses are well built , and the Town populous , they have an Exchange or place for Merchants to meet at , the streets are so clean that the Women go about in white Slippers , they being paved with Bricks laid edgewise . The Landthuise hath a fair front . In the great Church the Organs , the Tower and the Monument of De wit ; upon the Bridge the Statue of Erasmus , as also the house where he was born , and the Pleasure boats of the States are worth the seeing . It being then the time of their Kermis or Fair , there were Playes acted and many rarities shewn , as Lions , Leopards , &c. and a great noise was made about a tall Woman to be shewn of seven foot high ; but the Boor of Leckerkir'k , not far from this Town , was higher . Parsons and Evans , Porters to King Charles the first , did also exceed her , The Irish Youth who hath not yet done growing by divers years , shown in many places , is already Seven Foot and seven Inches high , but I have seldom heard of any that was taller than Martin Wierski a Polander , who at the age of forty two years was presented to the Emperor Maximilian the second , as a rarity of nature , and was full eight foot high , whose Picture , as big as the life , I saw , near to the Franciscans Convent at Vienna in Austria .

Del●t . From Rotterdam I passed by Overschee to Delft , by the Powder-house , which is a handsome one , built now at some distance from the Town to prevent the like accident which befel when the former took fire and blew up part of the Town . The Piazza or market-place is a very fair one , having the front of the Town house at one end of it , and the high Steeple of the new Church at the other . In the old Church , Van-Tromps Tomb is very well carved upon the side of the Wall , himself lying upon a Canon encompassed with Arms and trophies . In the middle Isle of the new Church there is a noble monument , the Tomb of William of Nassaw Prince of Orange , together with his Wife and Son , Prince Maurice ; his Statua is in armour with his Dog at his Feet , and four Obelisks are supported by ten Marble pillars . In a house of this Town there were shewn me in a Wall the marks of the bullets shot at Prince William , who was thereby murthered 1584. and in another Church which was broad and spacious I saw a handsome Tomb for Sir Charles Morgans Lady , and the Monument of Peter Hein the Admiral , who took the Spanish Silver-fleet .

The Hague , Haga Comitis , the ancient place of Residence of the Hague . Counts of Holland , and now of the States general ; is about an hours going distant from Delft ; in which passage , at some distance , we had a sight of two of the Prince of Orange's houses . This place is well built ; the Princes Court handsome ; The Piazza by it full of green Trees ; many fair Houses . The Course where the Coaches meet , the Pall-mall , the Wood , the Park , do much beauti●ie it , and the way from hence to Scheveling , from whence his late Majesty King Charles the Second returned into England , is very remarkable , it being a streight way cut through the Sand-hills , and paved with Brick for three miles , having on each hand four or five rows of Trees , and Scheveling Steeple at the end of it .

The Hague and Madrid in Spain are accounted the greatest Villages , or open unwalled places , in Europe , and the Hollanders have thought it more honour to be Masters of the greatest Village , than of a place which , if it were walled , would come short of many Cities ; but this may prove a dangerous resolution , for sormerly upon this advantage , Martin van Rossem , Captain to the Duke of Gueldres , sacked the Hague ; and it was lately in the like danger when the French Forces lay at Vtrecht and Worden , if they had forced a passage into that part of Holland .

Leyden is three hours or three Dutch miles from the Hague , at present Leyden . one of the neatest Towns in Europe ; Well built , hath divers large Streets , beautified with rows of Trees , and the water passing through the middle of them , and also well fortified after the modern way ; I took notice of that Antiquity called Hengist Castle , or the Berg , said to be built by Hengist the Saxon , and went up to the top thereof : Upon the top there is now an Arbour , and a Maze or Labyrinth round it , and a Well , out of which , they told us , they took a Fish alive when the Town was almost famished during the Siege , which was shewed to the Enemy over the Wall , endeavouring to make their condition to appear better than it was , and to dishearten the besiegers . There are now handsome stairs from the top to the bottom , and a good house built by it , where they have their publick sales and entertainments . But a nobler Antiquity lies under the Sea , than any above ground ; not far from hence near Catwyck is a square fortress called Arx Britannica , built by Caligula ; in the declining of the Roman Empire ruined in part by the Normans , and afterwards neglected , and overwhelmed by the Sea . But in some years , and great retire of the Sea , the ruines have been discovered , and many noble Antiquities brought from it , some having this inscription Ex. Ger. Inf. ex Germania Inferiori . The Stadthuise hath a fair front towards the Street . In the Anatomy Schools are a very great number of Skeletons . Two legs of an Elephant . The Skeleton of a young Whale , of a Horse , Deer , Cow , Cat , Fox , and many other Animals ; divers Skeletons of Men and Women , some bodies preserved with their Muscles , and one intire , the flesh ▪ skin and all parts defended from corruption . I saw also here what Monsieur de Bils pretended towards the preservation of Bodies , but more accurately afterwards at Dr. Ruisch his house at Amsterdam . The Physick-garden , although but small , is well filled with Plants , where are also many other both natural , and artificial Curiosities to be seen , and many sorts of Optick-glasses . Near the garden are the Schools built of Brick with the Officina Elzeviriana on the top . In the Churches I saw the Monuments of many famous men , in the French Church is the Tomb of Joseph Scaliger , with a large Inscription upon it , and these few words which he himself desired might be placed there .

Josephus Justus Scaliger Jul. Caes . Fil. Hic expecto Resurrectionem .

As also the Tomb of Carolus Clusius the great Herbarist .

Omnia Naturae qui munera pectore clusit Clusius , herbifero clauditur hoc tumulo .

And with this following ; Non potuit plures heic quaerere Clusius herbas : Ergo novas campis quaerit in Elysiis .

i. e.

Clusius view'd all the Plants that this Earth yields , And now is simpling in the Elysian Fields .

There is a Picture in the Chamber for the Burgermasters , representing the day of Judgment , drawn by Lucas van Leyden , so much esteemed that , it is said , the Emperor Rudolphus would have given for it as many Ducats of Gold as would have covered it . The Table also upon which John of Leyden wrought whilst he was a Taylor , is a Curiosity , because he proved afterwards so considerable a disturber of Germany , and came to be King of the Anabaptists .

This City endured a hard siege by the Spanish forces , and they were reduced unto great extremity , but they saved themselves by overflowing the Country , and so forcing the enemies to make away with great loss ; and afterwards coyned a memorial-Medal with this inscrption .

Vt Senacherib à Jerusalem , sic Hispani à Leyda noclu fugerunt . 1574.

Haerlem . From Leyden I came to Haerlem , a neat City , pleasantly seated and having a Grove near it . The great Church is esteemed the largest in Holland , with a very high Lanthorn upon it . Within are many Inscriptions and Monuments , most of which are transcribed and set down in Gotfr . Hegenitii Itinerarium Hollandicum . In the Prince's house are all the Earls of Holland Painted upon the wall , and in the Garden in the Summer-house , the Picture of Laurentius Costerus , who is said to have first invented the art of Printing in this Town ; but others attribute it to Johannes Gottenberg , a German . On the other side there is a Picture of a Ship with Saws , in memory of the manner how Damiata in Egypt was formerly taken by those of this Town , who , as they report , accompanied Frederick Barbarossa in an expedition against the Saracens , and when the men of Pelusium or Damiata had chained up their Port , by this invention of fastning strong Saws to the keels of their Ships , they cut the chains in sunder , and so took the Town . In the rooms are very good Paintings by Hemskerk , and Goltzius , as his Prometheus and other Peeces ; but Cornelius van Haerlem most delighted me , in his peeces of Herods killing the Innocent Children ; his feast of the Gods , in which Vulcans foot is esteemed at a great rate ; and another Picture of a Frier and a Nun at a Collation , not inferiour to the rest , among many Epitaphs in the great Church , there is this Dutch one , for a Man and his Wife .

Laet lopen die lopen luste Onse tiit is verlopen wy leggen hier in ruste . Let them run , that run will Our time 's run out , and we lye still .

The old Mens house , or an Hospital for sixty aged persons , is large and handsome ; having a good Quadrangle and a Garden in it . The Hospital also for the sick is very cleanly kept .

Here I first saw the manner of punishing Malefactors by whipping them with rods , which is more severe than I imagined ; they lead them to a Post upon a Scaffold , their hands tyed and by a Pully drawn up as high as can be extended , and then an Iron fastned about their wast to keep them steady ; in which stretched-out posture they receive sometimes fifty or sixty stripes or more , according to the merit of their offence .

Not far from this place there is a great Water , or noted Lake called Haerlem Meere about twenty Miles in length , which is frozen over in hard Winters , and men swiftly travel over it by sliding or in sleds . When Haerlem was besieged there was a Naval fight upon it ; The Dutch having about an hundred and fifty Vessels , and the Spaniards not many fewer . The Town was afterwards taken by Composition , but such Cruelty was used by tho Spaniards that they have not yet forgot it Amsterdam . .

From Haerlem I went to Amsterdam , a City at present for Riches , Trade , Shipping , fair Streets , and pleasant habitations , scarce yielding to any other of the World . It is seated upon the River Ye , and hath its name , as 't is reported , from a Castle appertaining long since to the Lords of Amstel , to whom this place also belonged : At the beginning , the seat of a few Fishermen ; but afterwards increasing , it received many Priviledges from the Counts of Holland , and was made a Town or City by the favour of their Grants and Charters . In the year 1470. it was walled about with a Brick-wall , to defend it against the Citizens of Vtrecht , they having been in great danger to have fallen into their hands , if those of Vtrecht had pursued their Victories . In few Months after also , the whole Town was almost reduced to Ashes by fire , but by the increase of their Traffick they easily overcame their losses , waded through all difficulties , and rendred good Services to their Counts , and received the honour afterwards from Maximilian the Emperor to have the Imperial Crown over their Armes , which ar● three Crosses on a Pale .

About the year 1525. Gelen , sent from the new King of Munster , passed through Friesland and came to this City ; where having made a Party , and communicated his design , he resolved to surprize the Town by night , at the time of the sounding of the Bell ; to which intent they were already entred the Market place , had set upon the Town-house : and cut in pieces those who resisted them . When by great providence the rope to the great Bell was taken away ; the Magistrates had notice of it , and caused all the Streets and Avenues leading to the Market-place to be stopped up with Wool-sacks and Hop-sacks , whereby they were hindred in their design of taking the Town by night , and the next morning their number being discovered to be inconsiderable , they were set upon , driven into the Stadthuis , and defeated .

Of late years this City is mightily encreased and encompassed with a new Wall , and fortified after the modern way . The new Streets are large and uniform : and the whole Town being in a low Marshy ground , the water is let in through all the considerable Streets . The River Amstel passes through the City , being let in under a handsome well contrived Bridge of Eleven Arches , which is so built as to make part of the Wall and Rampart , and is 26 paces broad . The whole Town is built upon Piles , or high Firr-trees , driven down perpendicularly into the Earth so thick together , that nothing more can be forced in between them : And by this means they build Houses in the Sea , and lay Foundations strong enough to support the geatest Buildings whatsoever , in places where no solid bottom is to be found . But they must needs be at a great expence and labour before they can lay the first Stone : And the number of Trees required to each Foundation is considerable ; since for the Foundation of one Tower or Steeple alone , over against the Church of St. Katherine , Mr. J. de Parivall , who wrote Les Delices de la Hollande , reckons that there was rammed into the ground a Forest , as he calls it , of Six thousand three hundred and thirty four great Trees . About this manner of work , for the fixing their Foundations , I saw them employed in divers places , particularly at the East-India-house and at a place where a Lutheran Church was then designed to be built , So that it was not improbably said , That if a man could see all under this City , he could hardly behold a greater Forest .

The Stadthuis or Town-house , is the noblest Building in all these Countries . A Pile of Freestone of an hundred and ten paces in Front , being larger than the Magnified Front of the Church of St. Peter's at Rome , and eighty one paces deep , or on the sides . The Chambers in it , the Pictures and Statues , are worthy to be seen and admired . The first Room on the right hand , or Judgment-hall , where the Malefactors receive their Sentence , is adorned with large Statues , hanging down their heads in mournful postures , as if concerned or grieving at what was then pronounced . The Floors are of Marble ; the Roofs are richly gilt and painted . Upon the top of all stands Atlas or Columbus , holding a Globe upon his Shoulder made of Copper , of about ten foot Diameter , which is as large perhaps as any Ball or Globe whatsoever employed to this ornamental use . That upon St. Peter's at Rome , as having been in it , I judge to be less ; as likewise that at Florence . The Turkish Ornament to the Tower of their Mosques , is three Balls one above another , and an half Moon over them , but they are less by far , at least such as I have seen : and by relation from Eye-witnesses , the largest of the three noble gilded Balls at Morocco are inferiour to this . But I will say nothing more of this great building , the Stadthuis , since there is a peculiar description of it in Folio , with Cuts and Figures of the most remarkable Curiosities in it . The Exchange is fair and large , and above it are Shops : it is very well frequented , and he that comes after twelve payeth six stivers .

Divers of their Churches are fair : In the new Church , the partition with Ballisters of Brass , and the carved Pulpit , are noble . In the old Church the Tomb of Van H●lse and Heemskerk are remarkable . Heemskerk did his Country great Services in their first attempts upon India : for the King of Spain , having confiscated some of the Hollanders Ships , who traded to his Dominions , which were then the Staple for the India Trade , It was resolved by the permission of Prince Maurice and the States , to set out a Fle●t of eight Ships for the Indies ; four of which were to pass by the way of the Atlantick Ocean , and the Cape of Good-hope : And the other four were to search a passage towards the Kingdoms of Cathay and China by the North-east , whereby the passage also into those parts might be expected much shorter than that which was known to the Spaniards .

To this intent these four last vessels sailed out of the Texel . June 5. 1594. and returned in September , not being able to proceed by reason of the Ice . But upon the relation of the Voyage by William Barenson , there were two other Expeditions afterwards to Nova Zembla ; in the last of which they wintered there , and Barenson lost his life . Heemskerk was the chief of the twelve which returned from that cold habitation , where none but Bears and Foxes could well endure the Winter , where he had been twice , and afterwards made two rich Voyages into India . Upon whose happy returns the Holland East India Company was first established , and a prohibition m●de for any other of that Country to trade thither for the space of One and twenty years .

But to proceed to other publick Buildings in this City . The Tuchthuis or Raspelhuis , or House of Correction for debauched young men , such as are incorrigible and disobedient to Parents or Laws , hath at the entrance of the Gate two Lions bridled , a proper Emblem , with this Inscription , Virtutis est domare quae cuncti pavent . This was formerly a Monastery belonging to the Nuns of the Order of St. Clare , and converted to this use 1595. They who are put in , are forced to work and gain their Bread with hard labour . I saw those who rasped Brazil , having a certain task set them every day , work so hard , that being naked and in a sweat , and the dust of the Brazil wo●d flying upon them , they were all over painted of a beautiful red colour . Which odd sight made me call to mind the Fancy of my Lady Marchioness of Newcastle , of a Nation wherein the People were of Orange-tawny colour , and the King of Purple .

They told us that some that were committed to their charge , and not to be brought to work by blows , they placed in a large Cistern , and let the water in upon them , placing only a Pump by them for their relief , whereby they are forced to labour for their lives , and to free themselves from drowning . One we saw put into a narrow Dungeon , and kept from meat . Some are put into this House for a longer time , some for a shorter . It hath been a punishment for such as have drawn their Daggers , or offered to stab any one . And some Citizens , though able and rich enough , contrive it so , that when their Sons are extravagant and masterless , the Officers seize upon them , and carry them into this House , where they are not forced to any hard labour , but kept in till they see sufficient signs of amending their life .

This way of Correction may seem severe to many , yet is not comparable to that which is said to have been formerly used in Germany . Particularly at Colen , in the White Tower , at the North end of the Town , near the Rhine ; where it is reported , that such Youths , who were not otherwise to be reclaimed , were in a barbarous manner shut up in the White Tower . The height and thickness of the Walls secured them from escaping , or from their complaints being heard . Near the top was placed out of their reach a loaf of bread , the last remedy against starving , which while their bold necessity forced them to reach at , they executed their last sentence upon themselves , and miserably brake their own necks .

Somewhat like the Raspelhuis is the Spinbuis , or House of Correction , for the young women , who live loosely , are taken in the night , or can give no account of their living . They are put in for a certain time , according as their fault merits , and are bound to make lace , sew , or employ their time perpetually in some honest labour .

Those of the better sort are permitted to have Chambers apart . In one large Room I saw about an hundred of them , and some very well dressed and fine , which was an unexpected sight to me , and would sure be more strange to behold in France and England .

The Weeshuis , or Hospital for Children , where there are Six hundred Orphans carefully looked after , and well educated .

The Dolhuis , or a House for such as are Delirious , Maniacal , or Melancholical of both Sexes .

The Gasthuis , or Hospital for the Sick , being large , and hath a great Revenue .

The Mannenhuis , or Hospital for old Men , and such as are no longer able to labour towards their own support .

Besides all which , there are great Sums of money collected for the poor , so that there is not a Beggar to be seen in the Streets , and upon all assignations or appointments of meeting at the Tavern , or elsewhere , and upon many other occasions , whosoever fails to come at the exact time , forfeits more or less to the use of the Poor .

The East-India-houses are remarkable , and the great Stores of their Commodities , Cinnamon , Green-ginger , Camphire , Pepper , Calecuts , Indico , &c. The Ships are of a great burden : their House was then enlarging , although it was great before ; and a perfect Town for all Trades within it self .

The Admiralteyt , or Admiralty where their Stores for War and Shipping are laid up , is encompassed with water ; near to it there lay then 72 Men of War . In the House we saw their Cables , Grapling-irons , Pullies , Oars , Charges for Powder , Lanthorns for Ships , &c. At the entrance of the Gate hangs up a Canoe which seems to have a man in it , dryed up , so as to be preserved from corruption , and a Paddle in his hand : enclosed up to the wast in the Canoe , in such sort , as the Fish-skins , which were the cover to it , being so sewed together that no water could get in , he might keep the Sea in the greatest Storms without danger . The top of this House , as of divers others also in this City , is a Reservatory for Rain-water , which they have the more need of , because they have little good water hereabouts .

The fairest Streets in the Town are Harlem-street , the Cingel , Princes Graft , Kaisers Graft , and the New Buildings in the Island towards Gottenburg . And if they continue to build with Freestone , they will still surpass these , which , I 'll assure you , are in no small measure beautiful .

I saw a Globe to be sold , made by Vingbomes , between six and seven foot Diameter , valued at Sixteen thousand Guldens : The Meridian alone , being of brass , cost a thousand Guldens . The Globe is made of Copper-plates excellently well painted , with all the new Discoveries in it , as that of Anthony Van Dimons Land , found out 1642. in 42 degrees of Southern Latitude , and 170 of Longitude , those towards the North-west of Japan , and those places both about Nova Zembla , and also in the Tartarian Sea beyond the Streights of Voygats , New-Holland , West-Friesland , Cape d' Hyver , &c. but I have since met with a Book , which doth somewhat contradict this ; entituled A Voyage into the Northern Countries by Monsieur Martiniere , who went in one of the three Ships belonging to the Northern Company of Copenhagen , in the year 1653. and by that means had occasion to converse with the Norwegians , Islanders , Laplanders , Kilops , Borandians , Siberians , Zemblians , and Samojedes , who are Neighbours to the Tartars and Tingorses , in his 46 Chapter he expresses himself after this manner . There having fallen into my hands several Geographical Charts of sundry eminent and much celebrated Authors , I am much amazed to see how they are mistaken in the position of Zembla , which they place much nearer the North Pole than really it is ; they divide it likewise by the Sea from Greenland , and place it far distant from it , when as indeed those two Countries are Contiguous , the Coasts of Greenland butting upon the Coasts of Zembla , so as did not the great quantity of Snow , and the violence of the cold render those Borders uninhabitable , the passage would be very easie by Land from Greenland to Zembla and from Zembla passing the Pater-noster Mountains to enter into Samojedia , from thence into Tartary or Muscovy , as one pleased : I was amazed likewise to see they had described the Streight called Voygat , not above ten French Leagues in length , whereas it contains above five and thirty Dutch Leagues , which is six times as much . Again , they would perswade us that through that Streight our ships might pass into the great Tartarian Ocean , which is a mistake . And although they indeed do affirm that in the time of Prince Maurice of Nassaw , a Dutch Vessel passed that way into that Ocean , yet it is a manifest error , that Streight being bounded , as I said before , by the Pater-noster Mountains , which are half a League high , and the tops of them covered with perpetual Snow , which never dissolves . And of this I can give a positive testimony , having been my self in that Streight under those Mountains in the Dog-days , which is the hottest time of the year .

From the Steeple of the old Church of Amsterdam , I had a good Prospect of the Town , and the great number of Ships lying upon one side of it , like a Wood ; and all the Towns about it . The Roofs of the Houses being sharp , it is a most uneven Town to be looked upon downward , as it is a handsome one to be looked on upward ; and is not so divertising or pleasing to the sight , as some Towns in France and Italy , which have flatter Roofs , or else are covered with a fine black Slat or Ardoise . Upon this , and all other Towers of the Town , a Trumpet is sounded at Midnight , and in other parts of the City at six a Clock night and morning . At eleven a Clock , the time of going on to the Exchange , there is good Musick at the Stadthuis , given by the Earl of Leicester . They make good Harmony also every hour in playing upon their Chimes and Bells in most Steeples . And there is a Musick-house or Entertaining-house , where any one is admitted for a Stiver , hears most sorts of Musick , sees many good Water-works , and divers motions by Clock-work , Pictures , and other Divertisements .

During my stay at Amsterdam , I had the opportunity of seeing divers Learned Men , and Persons of Note . Dr. Ruish shewed us many Curiosities in Anatomy , as the Skeletons of young Children , and Faetus's of all Ages , neatly set together , and very white ; the Lymphatick vessels so preserved , as to see the valves in them . A Liver excarnated , showing the Minute vessels , all shining and clear . The Muscles of Children dissected and kept from corruption : entire Bodies preserved ; the face of one was very remarkable , without the least spot or change of colour or alteration of the lineaments , from what might be expected immediately after death : he had then kept it two years , and hoped it would so continue . Dr. Swammerdam shewed us divers of his Experiments which he hath set down in his Treatise De Respiratione ; and a very fair Collection of Insects brought from several Countries ; a Stagg-fly of a very great bigness ; an Indian Scolopendria , or Forty-foot ; a fly called Ephemeron , and many other Curiosities . Old Glawber the Chymist shewed us his Laboratory : And we received much civility from Blasius the Physick Professour who hath wrote a Comment upon Veslingius .

The Jews live more handsomly and splendidly here , than in any other place : Their chief Synagogue is large , adorned with Lamps of Brass and Silver . We happened to be there at the Feast of their New-year ; so that there blowing of Horns , shouting and singing was not omitted : Some of them understand divers Languages . I saw one Moses di Pas , a Learned young Man , and Orobio , a Physician of Note . And I was sorry to see divers here to profess themselves publickly Jews , who had lived at least reputed Christians , for a long time in other places : One who had been a Franciscan Friar thirty years ; and another who had been Professour some years at Tholouze , and before that Physician to the King of Spain . Juda Leo , a Jew , hath taken great pains in making a Model of the Temple of Solomon , of Solomon's House , the Fort of the Temple , the Tabernacle , the Israelites encamping , and other Curiosities . I was present at the Circumcision of a Child ; which is performed by thrusting a Probe in between the Glans and Praeputium , and separating it , or dilating the Praeputium , so as the inward Skin may be drawn forward as well as the outward ; then by applying an Instrument joynted like a Carpenters Rule , or a Sector , the Skin is held fast beyond the Glans , and with a broad Incision-knife , or Circumcision-knife , the Foreskin is cut off close to the Instrument ; and what remains of Skin is immediately put back , the blood stopped with Powders , and a Plaister applyed ; the Relations and Acquaintance singing all the while , whereby the cries of the Infant are less heard .

Leaving Amsterdam , I passed by a peculiar Burial-place of the Jews , who are not permitted to interr their dead within the Walls ▪ by Overskerk , Bamburg , and in six or seven hours arrived at Vtretcht , in a Boat drawn with Horses through artificial Cuts of Water , which is the way of Travelling in Holland , Vtretcht , and divers other Provinces of the Low-Countries .

Vtrecht is an ancient , large , handsome City , and chief of the Province Vtrecht . of the same name , called formerly Antonina , and afterwards Vltrajectum . Long famous for its Episcopal See founded by Dagobert , King of France , who endowed it richly with Lands and Possessions : Willebald , or Willebrode , an Englishman , was their first Bishop , who converted these Countries unto Christianity ; and the following Bishops grew so powerful , that they were able to bring many thousand men into the field , and to wage great Wars against the Counts of Holland : Their Succession also continued for above Nine hundred years . It is now an University , founded by the States in the Year 1639. I shall not trouble you with the Names of the Professors ; the Learned Mr. Ray , whom I had the honour to meet in divers places abroad , having already caused to be printed the Series Lectionum of this and many other Universities in the Low-Countries , Germany , and Italy , in his Observations Topographical , Moral , Physiological , set forth 1673. The great Church hath a very high Tower , or three Steeples one above another : From the highest of which I had not only a good sight of the Town it self , which lay under mine Eye like a Platform , but of many others also ; Vtretcht being in a plain slat Country , and so well seated , and encompassed with so populous a Country , that in a days Journey a man may go from hence to any one of fifty walled Towns and Cities . The English Church here is an ancient Building ; the Pillar in the middle of it , whose Foundation could not be laid but upon Bulls-hides , is much taken notice of : It was built 1099. and hath the Picture of a Bull upon it with this Inscription ; Accipe Posteritas quod per tua saecula narres , Taurinis cutibus fundo solidata columna est .

There is an old Library belonging to this Church , which contains divers old Books and Manuscripts . A large Bille in six Volumes , painted and gilded after a very ancient manner : Two Idols , taken ( in time of War ) long since in Germany , and given to this place by the Emperor Henry the Fourth , are worth the seeing , not so much for their neatness , as their Antiquity and odd shape : As also a Horn made out of a Tooth , said to be given at the same time . There are also three Vnicorns Horns , little differing in length ; the longest being five foot and an half : I drank out of one of them , the end being tipp'd with Silver , and made hollow to serve for a Cup. These were of the Sea-Vnicorn , or the Horn or long wreathed Tooth of some Sea-Animal much like it , taken in the Northern Sea ; of which I have seen many , both in Publick Repositories , and in Private Hands . Two such as these , the one Ten foot long , were presented not many years since to the King of Denmark , being taken near to Nova Zembla ; and I have seen some full fifteen foot long ; some wreathed very thick , some not so much , and others almost plain : Some largest and thickest at the End near the head ; others are largest at some distance from the Head : Some very sharp at the end or point , and others blunt . My honoured Father Sir Thomas Brown had a very fair piece of one which was formerly among the Duke of Curland's Rarities , but after that he was taken Prisoner by Douglas in the Wars between Sweden and Poland , it came into the hands of my Unckle Colonel Hatcher , of whom my Father had it , he had also a piece of this sort of Vnicorns Horn burnt black , out of the Emperor of Russia's Repositorie , given him by Dr. Arthur Dee , who was Son to Dr. John Dee , and also Physician to the Emperor of Russia , when his Chambers were burned , in which he preserved his Curiosities . I have seen a walking Staff , a Scepter , a Scabbard for a Sword , Boxes , and other Curiosities made out of this Horn , but was never so fortunate as from experience to confirm its Medical Efficacy against I oisons , contagious Diseases , or any other evident effect of it , although I have known it given several times , and in great quantity , Mr. Charlton hath a good Vnicorns Horn , Sir Joseph Williamson gave one of them to the Royal Society . The Duke of Florence hath a fair one . The Duke of Saxony a strange one , and besides many others , I saw eight of them together upon one Table in the Emperors treasure , and I have one at present that for the neat wreathing and Elegant shape gives place to none . But of these Vnicorns Horns no man sure hath so great a Collection as the King of Denmark ; and his Father had so many , that he was able to spare a great number of them , to build a Magnificent Throne out of Vnicorns Horns .

I had the honour to see divers Persons of Note in this City ; as D. Cyprianus ab Oesterga , Dr. Regius , Voetius , the only Member then left alive of the Synod of Dort and others ; but missed the sight of the learned Anna Maria Skurman , who was then gone out of Town , and was forced to content my self with beholding her Picture , well drawn by her own hand , with this Inscription of hers under it : Cernitis hic picta nostros in Imagine vultus , Si negat a●sformam gratia vestra dabit .

The Painters Hall is considerable , wherein are many good pieces to be seen of several Masters : Amongst which there are good Heads by Van Colen and Tuart ; Land-skips by Soft-lever ; and good Drapery , especially in some Turkish Habits , by Vander Mere.

This Town is also beautified with a fair Piazza or Market-place , divers long Streets , and a Pall-mall with five rows of Trees on each side . In the Church of St. Katherine is the Tomb of my Lord Gorge . Though I had seen France and Italy , and the Noble Cities thereof , which are worthily admired by all , yet I was much surprized upon the first sight of the Vnited Provinces , especially of Holland , and the adjoyning places . He that hath observed the easie accomodation for Travel therein , both by Land and Water , their excellent order and regular course in all things ; the number of Learned Men : the abundance of Varieties in all kinds ; the industry , frugality and wealth of the People ; their numerous good Towns ; their extraordinary neatness in their Buildings and Houses ; their proper Laws and administration of Justice ; and their incredible number of Shipping and Boats , will think it an omission to rest in the fight of other Countries without a view of this . A Country of little extent , and soon travelled over , but so replenished with People , with good Cities , fair Towns and Villages , as not to be met with upon so little a compass of ground , except perhaps in China .

From Vtrecht , in two hours , I came to Friswick , and passed over the River Leck to Vianen , where there is little remarkable besides the House and Gardens of Count Brederode , one of the Ancient Nobility of Holland , or according to common esteem , of the most Noble Family of all ; the Family of the Egmonds being formerly esteemed the Richest ; the Wassenaer's the most ancient , and the Brederodes the Noblest . The Mount in this Garden serves for the Rampart to the Town , and on a round Bullwark are divers small brass Guns planted . The Statua's of the twelve Caesars , of Aristotle , the Pyramids and Partitions , with the Paintings upon the wall , are the rest of its Ornaments .

From hence I passed still by Boat through the Land of Arkel , some say , derived from Hercules ; belonging formerly to the Lords of Gorchom and Arkeland , till by Mary , daughter to the last Lord of Arkeland , it fell to John Lord of Egmond , and was afterwards sold to William , the sixth Earl of Holland . I arrived this night at Gorchom , a Town well seated , near three Rivers , the Ling , the Wael ▪ and the Maes . The Market-place is fair ; the Stadthuis is sunk somewhat on one side . The Governour hath a good House , and the Church a very high thick Steeple : the Works are of Earth : the Water-gate is handsome , and over it in Great Letters in this inscription ; Civitas in quâ maximè Cives legibus parent , & in pace beata , & bello invicta . 1642.

The more remarkable because it made good its Inscription in the year 1672. When Louis the Fourteenth , King of France , came down with so powerful an Army into the Low-Countries , that in that Summers Expedition he took thirty walled Towns and Cities , this Watergate being the Limit to his Conquests this way , beyond which his Forces were not able to attempt any thing .

Leaving Gorcum , I passed by Worcum , on the other side of the River , and then by the Castle of Lovestein , strongly seated and well fortified ; and therefore hath been often made use of to secure Persons of Note . Sir George Ascue of late years suffered his Imprisonment herein , and formerly Barnevelt ; upon which occasion this Castle hath been much spoken of , and hath given the name to that whole party who sided with him , well known at present by the name of the Lovestein Faction . Passing on further by the Maes , I left Proye on the left hand , and Huesden on the right , and the next day morning arrived at the Bosche .

The Bosse ▪ Hertogen Bosche , Sylva Ducis , Boscum Ducis , Boisleduc , Bolduc , takes its name from a Wood belonging to the Dukes of Brabant . It is a strong pleasant City , seated upon the River Disa or Deese , which enters the Maes , about two Leagues below it ; one of the greatest Cities in Brabant ; and for its strength , for which 't is beholden both to Nature and to Art , the States of the Vnited Provinces possess not any one more considerable , and is a very good Frontier against all Enemies on this side : It is encompassed on all sides with Fens and Marshy Grounds . The Avenues to it are by narrow Causeys , made turning and winding , to be commanded in all places by one or other of the six Sconces or Forts built at some distance without the Town for its greater Security . Besides which , the Hollanders having some reason to be jealous of the Inhabitants , whose affections might incline them towards the neighbouring Princes , of whose Religion most of them are , they have built a Cittadel within the Town , a Briel or pair of Spectacles to look more accurately into their Affairs . It is a handsom regular Fort of five Bastions , each Curtain is 84 ordinary paces long ; the Faces of each Bastion 63 ; and the Flank or Neck 24. There is a handsome House of Stone for the Centry at the point of each Bastion , and the middle of each Curtain , every one of which cost Seven hundred Guldens . Here is also a Field Canon of an extraordinary length , said to be able to fling a Bullet almost as far as Bommel . The Piazza in this Town is Triangular .

This City was made an Episcopal See , 1559. The Cathedral is Dedicated to St. John . In the Quire are painted the Arms of many of the Knights of the Golden Fleece . And over the upper Stalls or Seats , an Inscription in French , which contains the History of the first Institution , and Model of this Order , by the most High and mighty Prince Philip the Good , Duke of Burgundy , Lorain , and Brabant , in the year 1429 , who then named four and twenty Knights , besides the head of the Order , to whom he gave a Chain of Gold , and a Golden Fleece ; for which this Inscription was thought fit to be placed upon his Tomb ,

Pour maintenir l'eglise Qui est de Dieu Maison , I'ay mis sus le noble Ordre , Qu'on nomme le Toison .

Besides divers Statua's and Pillars . There are also several Monuments of the Bishops of Bosche and others .

This Town was taken from the King of Spain by the Forces of the Confederate Estates , in the year 1628. after a long and chargeable Siege ; in which the little Sconce , one of the Forts towards the South , did excellent Service .

Divers of the Nuns were still alive in this Town , but at Vtrecht they were all dead .

Breda . From the Bosche we travelled through a plain Country , somewhat Sandy , to Breda upon the River Merck : A place very considerable , pleasantly seated ▪ and well-fortified . It hath formerly had more Out-works than at present : For they have taken away the Crown-works ; and left only the Half-moons and Horn-works , and Conserves or Contregards about the Half-moons . There is a large Ditch of Water round the Counterscarp , and a small Ravelin between each Bastion , joyned to the Rampart within side of the Ditch . There is also a double Hay or Quickset-hedge almost quite round the Town , besides Palisado's . The Parapet is very thick , and strengthned with a row of Elms , and seconded with another row at three or four yards distance , round the Town ; the bodies of the Bastions are sunk down or hollowed away , and filled with a thicket of Elms. The Half Moons are the like without the Town , and after all , a brest-work between the Town and the Bastions ; and Cavaliers upon several places of the Rampart .

This Town belongs unto the Prince of Orange , unto whom it hath descended by the right of the house of Nassaw , by the Marriage of Engelbert the seventh Earl of that house , with Mary daughter and Heir of Philip the last Lord thereof , about the year 1400. It was taken by the Spaniards in the beginning of the Low Country Wars , and was afterwards surprized by the Dutch , by a stratagem performed by eighty men hid in a Boat covered over with Turf , and let into the Castle . In the year 1625. the Spaniards took it again , as by Inscriptions and Chronograms are to be seen in divers places , as that over the door of the Church .

aMbrosI spInoLae VIgILantIa breDa eXpVgnata .

As also this ,

PhILIppVs hIspanIae reX gVbernante IsabeLLa CLarâ EVgenIa Infanta , obsIDente spInoLa qVaternIs regIbVs frVstra ConIVrantIbVs breDa VICtor potItVr .

Afterwards it was besieged and taken by Frederick Hendrick Prince of Orange , as an inscription at the West end of the Church sets it down .

Auxilio solius Dei , Auspiciis confoederati Belgij , Ferdinando Austriaco Hispaniae Infantae cum ingenti exercitu frustra succurrente , à Iulij 23 obsessam ad 19 Augusti oppugnatam . Fredericus Henricus Princeps araVsIVs breDaMeXpVgnat seX●a OCtobrIs .

The Church is fair and hath many good Monuments , as Renesse's Tomb ; a Monument for Sir Thomas Alisbury set up by the Lord Chancellor Hide ; an old Tomb erected 1349. for John Lord of Lech and Breda ; the Tomb of Grave Engleberg Van Nassaw and his family on the side of the Wall ; the Here Van Horne and his three Wives ; but the Principal Monument is that of Grave Hendrick Van Nassaw , whose Armour is supported by four Warriers upon their Knees ; he built the Castle of Breda , which is at present both strong and beautiful : I observed the place where the Turf-Boat came in , and where the Prince came over into the Town . The Gallery , the Garden , the Walks , and Dials are worth the seeing , the Town is handsomly built , populous , and generally hath a great Garrison in it .

Gertruydenberg . Leaving Breda we soon came by Land to St. Gertruydenberg , the last Town on the North of Brabant , where it joyned to the Province of Holland , a small place , but a good Town for fishing , lying upon a Hill near the great broad Water called de Waert , made by the falling of the Maes and many other Rivers into it . This Town is fortified and Garrisoned . The Church and Steeple have been Large and fair , and the ruines of the Latter are observable , in regard that this Steeple was shot down by a Stratagem of the Prince of Orange , while the Governor and chief of the Town were upon it , to observe a false alarm in the Prince's Camp , and so lost themselves and the Town . We passed from hence over a large Water which hath overflow'd a great part of the Country upon one side of it , no less than seventy two Parishes being drowned at once , the Village of Ramsdun only escaping , and so by an old Tower called the house of Murvey , to the Maiden Town of Dort , or Dordrecht .

Dort . Dordracum , so called by some from Duri or Dureti forum , at present Dort , being seated in the Waves of those great Lakes made by the Maes and Waal , is not unaptly from its situation compared to a Swans nest , it is reckoned the first and chief Town of South Holland , in respect of its antiquity , as having served to secure Odocer in his retreat almost eight hundred years since , and also in respect of its Privileges in having the Mint here , and being the Staple for Rhenish wine and English Cloth .

In this Town are many fair houses and pleasant Gardens . The great Church is large , the Steeple 312 steps high ; the top thereof being made of four large Dyalls . There is also an Exchange or Place for Merchants to meet . The English have two Churches , and the French one . The Key or Head to the water side is handsome , and the Country about very pleasant ; we saw the Chamber wherein the Synod of Dort was assembled 1611. a large fair room ; and took a collation in the same house , in a high turret overlooking the Town and Country : Our seats Moving round about the Table continually ; so as the diversity of the prospect made it more delightful . The great Vessels round-bellied , which trade between Coln and this City seemed strange ; as also the long Luyck or Liege-boats ; and the number of People that continually live in them . At my going away from hence I embarked in a Vessel bound for the Island of Walcheren , sayling by most of the Islands of Zealand and in sight of divers good Towns , as Willemstadt , Zirickzee , Tergoes ; observing in some places where the Sea had overflow'd the Land ; and in others where the Industry of the Inhabitants still keep it out , by keeping up their banks , and thatching the Shoars of the Sea . Ter-Vere . We Landed at Ter-Vere , where there is a good Haven and Harbour for Ships , the Walls were built in the year 1357 , towards the Sea are round towers . The Piazza is long . The Scotch have had a Factory here for above two hundred years , and the Marquiss of this Place did formerly make one of the three States , by which Zealand was Governed . The Abbot of St Nicholas in Middleburg representing the Ecclesiastical jurisdiction , and the Towns of Middleburg , Zirickze , Ter-Vere , Flussing , Tolen , Martins-dike , Romerswal and Tergoes , supplying the Third : over against this place where a Town had formerly sunk into the Sea , the Steeple only remains to be seen . From hence to Middleburg the way is Paved with Brick ; as it is also from Town to Town in most places of Holland ,

Middleburg . Middleburg is the chief Town in the Island Walachria , seated almost in the middle of it , being well built , large rich , and Populous , it is the fourth Port for the East-India trade : hath a large , broad Water within the Town , and a streight cut through the Land to carry Vessels out to Sea , the whole is very well Fortified , the Officers here are chosen by strangers or Foreigners , the Churches are many and remarkable , the new Church is of an eight-square figure with a Cupola , the Tower of the old great Church very high , the Stadthuise with the old statua's about it , the round Piazza , and many private buildings are Considerable , and the whole Country about it is fruitful ; either divided into Gardens and Orchards , or Planted with Madder , Pompions , or Grain and Fruits . The Zealanders are generally addicted to the interest of the Prince of Orange , and great Lovers of his Person . I found them not a little delighted that the Prince had been with them some days before , and was made Premier Noble , or chief of the States of Zealand ; which was chiefly brought about , as I was informed , by Pensioner Hubert , le Sage , Duvelaer and Vriebergen , formerly no great friends to the Prince , especially Vriebergen , who was the most earnest of any to bring him in , in despite to the Hollanders , for General W●rts his sake , who being set over the Zealand forces by those of Amsterdam lately affronted Vriebergen's Son , who was a Colonel at the Head of his Regiment . I was entertained at Middleburg very courteously by Mr. Hill the Minister , who also sent his Kinsman with me to Flussing . Flissinga or Vlussing hath Stone-Walls towards the Sea , Flushing . and Mudworks towards the Land ; a very good Port , and a strong Town ; the waves of the Sea washing it walls ; it was one of the first Towns which the Low Country men took from the Spaniards in the year 1572 , and was made Cautionary to Queen Elizabeth together with Rammaki ns and the Briel . 1585. The renowned Sir . Philip Sidney being the first Governor of it , and surrendered by King James to the United states , 1616. The Sea shoar here abouts is not only faced with rushes , flaggs and reeds staked down as high as the Tide usually arises , but it is also strongly bound over with Osiers and hurdles and great Posts driven in to break the force of the Water , and secure the Piles which make the Harbour or Havens mouth . The Town-house is handsomly built , standing in the Piazza , having three rows of Pillars in the Front one above another ; the Lower Dorick , the second Ionick , and the highest Corinthian ; and on the top there is a Gallery or Balcony to Discover ships at Sea . This is the third Port for the East - India trade ; Amsterdam and Rotterdam being the first and second : here lay many great ships in the middle of the Town , and considerable men of War , as the St. Patrick , and the Admiral of Zealand : we saw them also building of divers ships , and when the Prince was here they lanched one to divertise him , to which he gave the name of William Frederick , they also presented him with a Golden Bottle ; that being the Arms of the Town : the Prince Landed at Armuyden , and went from thence to Tergoes , and thence to Breda ; they reported his entertainment in Walcheren amounted to fifty thousand Guldens . The Women in this Island wear most of them red Cloth and straw-Hats ; if a Man dies a great bundle of Straw is laid at the Door , if a Boy , a little one if a Woman , the straw lies on the left side of the Door : when any woman is brought to bed , they fasten a piece of Lawne to the ring and rapper of the Door , and make it up into a little baby or puppet finely pleated , and in such manner , as to distinguish of what sex the young Child is .

Returning to Middleburg by Land I observed there was a row of Trees round the Town between the moat and rampart , where ordinarily there is only a breast-work or a hedge , and embarked at Middleburg again , and passed down the River by the fort Rammakins , and so for the Schelde , Sayling up that noble River till we had passed the Fort , Frederick Henrick , and came to Lillo ; where we stayed till the Vessel was searched . Over against Lillo , lies another Fortification , called Lifgens hoek ; the Fort de la croix is the last that belongs to the Hollanders , and lies on the North side of the River ; the Banks are cut nigh to it , and the Country drowned for its greater Security . The Spanish Forts hereabouts to defend the Frontiers , are the Philip , the Pearl , and the Maria.

The River Scaldis or Scheld mentioned by Caesar is a gallant River , affording plenty of Fish , and convenience for Navigation and passage unto several noted places : It arises in the Country of Vermandois , passing to Cambray , Valencienne , so to Tournay or Dornick , Oudenard , Gaunt , Rupelmond and Antwerp , and pursuing its course is afterwards divided into two streams , whereof the Southern is called the Hont ; the other runs by Bergen ap Zome , and afterward into the Sea between the Isles of Zealand .

Antwerp . The next day morning we went on our Voyage still up the Scaldis or Schelde , and arrived at Antwerp . Where I had the good fortune to see Mr. Hartop ; one very well known in all those parts , and of high esteem for his personal strength and valour . A Gentleman also so courteous that he makes it his business to oblige strangers ; he shew'd me many curiosities in this City , carrying me with him in his Coach .

The Walls of Antwerp are very large , faced with Brick and Free-stone , having divers rows of Trees upon them , broad walks , and conveniences for the Coaches , to make their tour upon . The Bastions are not so large as generally they build now a dayes , yet after the modern ▪ way . The Ditch is very broad and deep , the Country about it , all Gardens . The Cittadel is a regular Fortification of five Bastions , wherein lies always a Garrison of Spanish Souldiers : upon every curtain there are two mounts or Cavaliers ; and between them below , a row of building or lodgings for the Souldiers ; the ears of the Bastions are cut down , and Casamates made or Case matte , and Palisado's set round upon the Esplanade ; the Walls are lined with excellent Brick and Stone , nor is there any where a more regular beautiful Fortification of five Bastions that is finished : it commands the City , the River and the Country : besides this Cittadel there is another Fort within the Town near the Schelde , to command the River , having eight Guns in it , called St. Laurence Fort.

The Exchange is handsome , supported by 36 Pillars , every one of a different carving , four streets lead unto it , so that standing in the middle we see through every one of them . The Meer or Largest street is considerable for the water running under it , and for the meeting of Coaches upon it every evening to make their tour through the streets of the City , which are clean and beautiful ; at one end of it stands a large Brass Crucifix upon a Pedestal of Marble . The Jesuites Church goes far beyond any of that bigness that I have seen out of Italy . The Front is noble , with the Statua of Ignatius Loyala on the top . A great part of the inside of the Roof was painted by Rubens , and some of it by Van Dyke : there be many Excellent peices of flowers done by Segers a Jesuite ; the Carving and gilding of all the works is exquisite : The Library of the College is great , and the Books disposed handsomely into four Chambers : the Founder hereof was Godfridus Houtappel , whose Monument , together with his Wife and Children are worth the seeing , in a Chappel on the South side of this Church . In the Church of the Carmeli tes is a large Silver Statua of our Lady , and models of Cities in stone . Onser Lieven-Vrowen Kerck , or the Church of our blessed Lady is the greatest in the City ; and the Steeple one of the fairest in World , five hundred foot high : one of their feet is eleven of our inches ; so as it is 459 of our feet : In this Church there is much carving , and a great number of Pictures highly esteemed ; among which one piece is much taken notice of , drawn by Quintin at first a Smith , who made the neat Iron work of the Well before the West door ; and afterwards to obtain his Mistress , he proved a famous Painter ; his head is set up in Stone at the entrance of the Church , with an inscription and this verse ; Connubialis amor de Mulcibre fecit Apellem .

I was at the famous Abby of St. Michael , pleasantly seated upon the Schelde ; where , among other curiosities , I saw a glass , which represented the Pictures of our Saviour and and the Virgin Mary , collected from the putting together of divers other heads : One was represented from a Picture wherein were thirteen faces , and another from one of twelve : over the blessed Virgin was this Inscription ; Diva nitet varis expressa Maria Figuris .

The Countess of Brabant's Tomb , who was drowned , and her Statua , as also the Monument of Ortelius , are here shewn . Marcarius Simoneus was then Abbot , the Monks 63. Near unto the Wharf-gate is the Church of St. Walburgis , an English Saint , who contributed much towards the conversion of these Countries .

The Town-house is fair , the House built for the East-country Merchants is very stately and large , but runs now to ruine , in this I saw , among other curiosities , divers strange Musical instruments , which at present are not understood , or at least not made use of : The Hessen house hath been also formerly considerable . The water which they make use of in Brewing , is brought by an Aqueduct from Herentall about thirty miles distant from hence ; and is conveyed into the Town by a large Channel , peculiarly walled in by it self where it passes the Ditch ; in this City are many good collections of Pictures both Ancient and Modern , and excellent Miniature or Liming by Gonsol ; one fine piece , which I saw was peculiarly remarkable , it being the work of 35 several Masters .

Brussels . From Antwerp , I passed to Brussels by water changing Boats five times , and going through divers locks , by reason the Country is so much higher about Brussels , and the water above two hundred foot lower at Antwerp . At Fontaine a league and half from Brussels , three Rivers cross one another : one of them being carried over a bridge . The Piazza of Brussels is fair , and oblong in figure ; upon one of the longest sides stands the Town-house , and over against it the Kings-house , where upon a Scaffold hanged with Velvet , Count , Egmond and Horne were ●●headed , the whole Piazza being hanged with Black Cloth . Upon the top of the Town-house , stands St. Michael , the Patron of the City , in Brass , Count Marsin's house formerly belonging to the Prince of Orange , hath a fair Court , and overlooks a good part of the City , but a quarter of it is ruined by Lightning . The Thunderbolt or Stone which they affirm to have effected it , is bigger than two Mens heads , and hangs up upon the door at the entrance . The Jesuites Church is handsom , and in it the fair white Tower is beautifully gilded at the top . The Carmelites Church hath a noble Altar , and near unto the Church is the Statua of a pissing boy , which is a continual Conduit . The Armory was well furnished as we were informed , before the Governors of the low Countries sold the Arms ; and Cassel Roderigo , the Governor , left it very bare . There remains the Armour of Charles the fifth , of Duke Albert , of the Prince of Parma , Ernestus , and of the Duke d'Alva , and of the Duke Alberts horse , who being shot saved his Master , and died the same day twelve month ; Spears for the hunting the wild Boar , one with two Pistols ; The Armour of Cardinal Infante , and of an Indian King ; A Polish musket which carries six hundred paces ; Charles the Fifth's Sword for the making the Knights of the Golden Fleece , and Henry the Fourth's Sword sent to declare war ; Good Bucklers for Defence , and some well wrought ; especially one with the Battel of Phrrhus and his Elephants ; and banners taken with Francis King of France , at the Battel of Pavia .

Somewhat like Godfrey of Bouillons shooting the three Pigeons near the Tower of David , is the shot which Infanta Isabella made , when with an Arrow she killed a Bird , in memory whereof , a Bird pierced with an Arrow is set upon the top of a Tower in the Court , which is large ; and if the New Buildings and Design were continued , it would be very handsome Before the Court stands five brass Statues . The Park is pleasant , with Trees set in order , and adorned with Grotto's , Fountains , and Water-works , which come very near the Italian ; one piece somewhat imitating Frascati , in which all Musical Instruments are imitated , and a perpetual motion attempted : and on the Front of the Buildings stand the Caesars heads . But the Echo is most remarkable ; which may perfectly be distinguished to ten or twelve Replies . The greatest Church is that of St. Gudula ; in which is her Statua , the Devil striving to blow out the Light of her Lanthorn . The two Chappels therein are remarkable ; the one built by Leopoldus ▪ very fair on the out-side : the other towards the North , hath been visited by five Kings ; in which is the Host which bled being stabbed by the Jews . In the Dominican Church is the Monument of the Duke of Cleve and his Dutchess , in Corinthian brass . But for a New Church that of the Begennes , or Pious Maids , is very considerable ; there being Eight hundred of them in this City , who have a particular place allotted to them , where they have built this milk-white Church . The Plague was much in this place at that time , three hundred Houses being shut , up and Garlands placed on the doors , in the middle of which was written IH † S. I saw the English Nunnery , and other considerable Buildings . And after I had refreshed my self at the Fish-Tavern , which is worth the seeing , especially for two Rooms in it , furnished from top to bottom with very good Pictures , I returned to Antwerp .

Octob. 4. I travelled through an open Country , and lodged at Molin Brusle , brusle . The Spanish Souldiers met us upon the Road this day , some of them well mounted and armed , and begged of us , and were well satisfied with a small Benevolence . The next day we entred the Country of Liege , and passed great Heaths , and on the Sixth , in the morning arrived at Maestreicht .

Maestreicht . Trajectum ad Mos●m or Maestreicht , is a strong Town , seated upon the Maes , four Leagues below Liege . The Out-works are very considerable ; the Wall is old . Towards the South-east lies a Hill , which arises gently , and overlooks part of the Town . Under this Hill is one of the noblest Quarries of Stone in the World . To secure the Town from the disadvantage it might receive from this Hill , there was formerly a Fort built upon it , but it hath been long since slighted ; and they have made out an Horn-work within Musket-shot of it , and the Bastion answering to it is made very high , to cover the Town . On the other side of the River stands Wicke , very well fortified also , and rather stronger than Maestreicht , into which they might retire if the Town should be taken by Storm , it being united to Maestreicht by a handsom Bridge over the Maes , consisting of Nine Arches . All about Wicke the Country is flat : there are many Inhabitants in it , and a handsom Glass-house .

The private Houses of Maestreicht are generally covered with a black Slat , or Ardoise , otherwise not very beautiful . The Town-house is fair , seated in one of the Piazza's , built of white Stone ; it hath Nine large Windows in a row on each side , and within is very well painted by Theodorus van der Schuer , who was Painter to the Queen of Sweden . In another Piazza is a Fountain , rows of Trees , and the great Church . This Town was besieged and taken from the King of Spain by the Confederate States in the year 1632.

October the Seventh I dined at Gollop , a small place , and came that night to Aken , Aix la Chapelle , or Aquisgrane , an ancient noble City , the Inhabitants Courteous , and much frequented by reason of its hot Baths , of which I shall speak more particularly in my Journey from Colen to London . Leaving Aken I travelled towards Juliers or Gulick , but it being late before we arrived , the Gates were shat up , so as we went only under the Walls , leaving it on our right hand . Near unto Gulick runs a shallow swift River , called the Roer . At the Mouth of it , where it falls into the Maes , is seated a considerable Town , called Roermonde , through which I passed in the year 1673. when Sir Lioncl Jenkens and Sir Joseph Willamson were sent Plenipotentiaries to Cologne , in our Journey from Antwerp to that City . We then pas●ed the Country of Brabant , by the way of Thornhaut , Weert , Roermonde , and the next Night passing by Erkelens , lodged at Castro , or Caster , in Gulickland , where there are still the remains of an old Castle , Roermonde . formerly built for the Defence of that part of the Country . Roermonde is seated upon a rising Hill , near the River Roer , hath a Colledge of Jesuits in it , a handsome Piazza , and an old Abby with divers Monuments very ancient , founded by Gerard Earl of Guelderland . From this Town their Excellencies were saluted with the Guns from their Walls , charged with Bullets . The Spaniards in most places striving to express the highest of their respects .

From Gulick I travelled to Cologne , where I arrived October the 10 th , 1668.

A JOURNEY FROM COLEN TO VIENNA .

COlen , Coln , or Colonia Agrippina , was anciently the Capital City of the Vbii , a people who were at first possessed of the Countries now called Berg and March , but being over-run by the Germans next to them , Agrippa , Lieutenant of Gallia , received them into protection , and placed them upon this side of the Roman shoar of the Rhine , where they built this place , and called it Opidum Vbiorum , and the Romans seating themselves here for the defence of the Country , in Honour of Agrippina , daughter to Germanicus , and wife to Claudius , whose Birth place it was , gave it afterwards the Name of Colonia Agrippina . It is at present one of the largest , if not the greatest , of any City in Germany , secured towards the Land by a high Wall , and two deep Trenches , and towards the Water by a Wall of Stone . The Rhine renders it delightful upon one side and divers rows of Trees enclose the Town towards the Land . They have some Out-works , as Half-moons and Ravelins , but their best security is in the great number of men which they are able to raise within themselves . Many of the Streets are broad , and paved with broad stones .

It received the Christian Faith very early , and Maternus was their Bishop above 1350 years since , who subscribed , amongst others , to the Council of Arles . They have a great number of Churches , and well endowed , which take up a great part of the Town ; the Prebends and Canons Houses having in many places Vincyards , and large Gardens adjoyning . Towards the North end of the Town , the Church of St. Kunibald is considerable . The Convent of the Dominicans is fair , and newly built , with a Garden in the Court , and all the Chambers uniform . The Jesuites Church is well built and stored with rich Copes , Altar-pieces , and other Ornaments . In the Church of St. Gereon , a Saint of great name here , martyred about Colen in the time of Maximianus , are about a thousand Saints heads , and on each side of the Altar a large Statua , whereof one is of a Moor ; and under the Quire another Church . The Convent of the Carmelites is also considerable , wherein the Treaty of Peace was held with good accommodation in it , though with no success , in the year 1673. In the Church of St. Vrsula is her Tomb and the Tombs of divers of the Eleven thousand Virgins , martyred by the Huns. Upon the Monument of St. Vrsula is this Inscription ; Sepulchrum Sanctae Vrsulae indicio Columbae detectum . Upon many of the Tombs which are old , are Crosses and Lamps . Many Bones and Heads of the Martyrs are also kept in this Church . The Cathedral is dedicated to St. Peter , and is very large , but not finished . The Body of the Church hath four rows of Pillars within it . The Quire is handsome and very high : behind it are believed to be the Tombs of the three Wise men which came from the East to worship our Saviour , or the Kings of Arabia , of whom it was prophesied that they should bring Gifts , commonly called the three Kings of Colen : Melchior , who offered Gold , Gaspar Frankincense , and Balthasar Myrrh . Their Bodies , as the account goes , were first removed to Constantinople by Helena , the Mother of Constantine the Great ; then to Milan by Eustorsius Bishop thereof ; and they have now rested at Colen for above five hundred years , being translated from Milan hither by Rainoldus Bishop of Colen , in the year 1164. There are also divers other Monuments of Bishops , and Noble Persons in Brass and Stone , and one in the shape of a Castle with six Towers . The Canons of this Church are all Noblemen ; among whom the Duke of Newburg , who ordinarily resides at Dusseldorff , about twenty English miles below this City , upon the Rhine , hath two Sons . In a Church dedicated to all the Apostles , they shew us a Tomb , which being opened by Thieves , intending to plunder it , the Woman buried in it arose up and went home , and lived with her Husband divers years after . In one of the Streets is a Tower , or rather one Tower upon another , which seems to be ancient , now made a Prison . Upon another Ruine also in the Streets lies a Tomb made out of one Stone ; of which sort of Tombs there are many in this City and other places ; but the greatest number of them I ever saw was at Arles in Provence .

The Senate House is Noble , having a fair Tower upon it , from whence there is a good prospect over the City . Upon the Front of the Senate House is a Man in Basso relievo , fighting with a Lyon , who , as it was related to me , was formerly one of the Consuls , who having had a contest with some Clergy-men about the Government of the City , on a suddain they caused a Lyon to be let in upon him : upon which occasion he behaved himself so well , as he delivered himself , and slew the Lyon .

The Elector or Archbishop of Colen hath two Places in the City , but by agreement between him and the Town , he is not to stay here above three days together . Only this present Archbishop , upon the coming down of the Imperial Forces , and his loss of Bonna , took Sanctuary here in the Convent of St. Pantaleon , where he continued a great while .

The City is Imperial and Free , and yet it doth Homage to the Elector , much after this Form : We free Citizens of Colen promise to the Archbishop , to be faithful and favourable unto him as long as he preserves us in Right and Honour , and in our ancient Pivileges , Vs , our Wives , our Children , and our City of Colen . Most of the City are of the Roman Church , and the whole Town so full of Convents , Churches , Church-men and Reliques , that it is not undeservedly styled the Rome of Germany . The Lutherans have also a Church within the Walls , and the Calvinists at Malheim , half a League down the stream on the other side of the Rhine .

Over against Colen lies Dutz , a small Village , inhabited chiefly by Jews . The Vessels which come out of tho Low-Countries hither are long , round bellied , and of great burden . Near to the Wall of the Town , upon the Quay or Key , is a kind of Harbour made for them , into which they may be drawn , and escape the Injuries they would otherwise suffer by the Ice in Winter .

Besides the rich Clergy , there are many wealthy Citizens and Merchants here , and they maintain a Traffick and Correspondence with divers Countries , especially by the convenience of the Rhine . They speak not the best High-dutch ; but Latin and French are understood by many : Divers Hosts in Inns speak Latin , and the Servants French ; which proves a good help unto Travellers . It was made an University about the year 1388. Besides the General Hospitals for young and old persons , there are two for the Sick , and well accommodated . They have a Pharmacopaea Coloniensis , or a Dispensatory proper to the place , whereby Apothecaries compound their Medicines . I was acquainted with one of the best , Mr. Elburg , a knowing and obliging person , who was his Late Majesty King Charles the Second's Apothecary while he resided at Colen , and whom my honoured Friend Sir Alexander Fraser , his Majesties chief Physician , made use of , who lived in great reputation in this City .

Two hundred years since Aeneas Sylvius left an high expression concerning this place , Colonia quae de conjuge Claudii matre Neronis , Agrippina dicta est , & trium Magorum ossibus illustrata , nihil magnificentius , nihil ornatius , totâ Europâ reperias : which though , if strictly construed , will hardly be admitted by any who hath beheld Paris , Naples , Venice , &c. yet doth it declare the nobleness of this City , even in former times .

We left Colen about four a Clock in the Afternoon , being drawn up the Stream with Horses , they being made fast by a very long Rope to the Mast ; we lodged in a small Village , having had a good prospect of Colen all this Evening from off the water . Near to this Place Julius Caesar made his Bridge over the Rhine . The next day we came to Bon , the Seat of the present Archbishop and Elector of Colen , Maximilianus Henricus , Duke of Bavaria , Bishop of Hildisheim and Liege , and Arch-Chancellor of the Empire throughout Italy . This place was formerly called Bonna , or Castra Bonnensia , the wintering place , in the time of Tacitus , of the sixth Legion . It was not long since very well fortified by the order of the present Archbishop , and the direction of Colonel Biser , a blind man , having Cataracts in both his eyes . The Archbishops Palace is very Noble , and there is a Chamber seated a good way into the Rhine , to which they pass thorow a Gallery . This Night we lodged at the foot of the highest of the seven Hills by the Rhine , which are seen at a great distance ; and upon divers of them stand old ruined Castles . On the 15 th we passed by a pleasant Island with a Convent in it : at Remagen is also a Convent upon a Rock , fortified with round Towers . In the Evening we lodged near to a Castle , ruined four years before by the Electors of Triers and Colen , it belonging at that time to the Duke of Lorrain . On the 16 th early in the Morning we came to Andernach , where the Plague was very much at that time , and they kept a great many of their sick in Boats upon the Rhine .

Andernach . Andernach , of old Anten●●um , was one of the Roman Fortresses . Upon this River , some think that Caligula was born , and that Valentinian was buried thereabouts . Near unto this place are also Mineral Springs , well frequented , and much made use of . The Town is encompassed with an old Wall ; and the Gates were shut up by reason of the Plague : Notwithstanding , there being divers Friars in our Company , several of the Towns-men sent out dishes of Meat to them , which we eat in the Field upon Trees which were laid along near the Town . This day the passage by water seeming tedious to us , Mr. Mulstroh , a worthy German Gentleman , with whom I travelled as far as Spire , was willing we should hire a Coach together , which we did , and invited the Friars with whom we had breakfasted , to go along with us in it to Coblentz . We passed through a very pleasant Country , between rows of Walnut-trees , in sight of two of the Elector of Triers Houses , and near to a House belonging to the Count de Wert .

We passed the Mosella over a handsome Stone-bridge of thirteen Arches , built by Archbishop Baldus , or Balduinus , in the year 1344. and coming into the Town , we went to the Dominican Convent , which is pleasantly seated near the Banks of the River Mosella ; but the Prior of the Convent , whom we had brought with us , was so obliging , that he would not part with us that night ; and we were very civilly entertained by him in his Lodgings : He invited also some of the Convent to bear us company ; and after a handsome Supper , with plenty of excellent Mosella Wine , we went to bed between two Feather-beds .

Coblentz . Coblentz , or Confluentia , is a Town of a Triangular Figure , seated at the meeting of two great Rivers , the Rhine and the Mosella , which make two sides thereof , and the third is made by a Line drawn from one River to the other ; which is now well fortified after the most regular Modern way . The Wall within these Works had many old high Towers ; and formerly there was another still nearer to the uniting of the Rivers , and consequently containing a less space of ground : This Town is under the Elector and Archbishop of Triers , Carolus Caspar , of the Noble Family of the Leyen , Arch-Chancellor for the Empire in Gallia Belgica , and the Kingdom of Arles . It was given to the Church of Triers when Medoaldus was Archbishop , above a thousand years since , in the time of King Dagobert . The Situation is pleasant and convenient , and lies over against the Castle of Hermanstein , or Ehrenbrei●stein , that is , The Stone of far extended Honour ; at the foot of which Castle , upon the shoar of the Rhine , under a great Rock , stands a very Noble Palace of the Electors , two large Wings and the Front with five Pavilions standing towards the River , and from it a long Bridge of Boats over the Rhine to Coblentz : when any great Vessel passes by , they let slip three Boats , whereby the passage lies open , and make them fast again afterwards . In the German Wars the Spaniards thrust in a Garrison into this Town ; which was afterwards beaten out by the Rhinegrave for the King of Sweden ; and the strong Castle of Ehrenbreitstein being put into the hands of the French , the Emperours Forces seized upon the Archbishop of Triers , who then was Philippus Chris●ophorus , and carried him away to Vienna .

In places where the Rhine runs through a low Country and a sat Soyl , it washes away the Banks : to secure which , in divers places they have made great Works of Wood , and also to secure Vessels from the danger of the Ice . And I remember , riding near the Banks of the River Loire in France , I observed them in some places to be handsomely defended for a long way together with Freestone .

Near unto Coblentz , upon a Hill , is a Convent of Carthusians . October the 17 th we went up the Rhine to Boppart , a walled Town , upon the western bank , where Van Trump was at that time : It is a very old Town , one of the Roman Fortresses against the Germans , called anciently Bodobriga ; some would have it called Bopport from Beauport , Fai●haven , or Bonport , a good convenient place for Vessels to retire into , or to ride in .

On the 18 th we dined at St. Guer , a pleasant Town belonging to the Landtgrave of Hesse , who hath a Castle here . Coming on shoar we met with an odd custom : for upon the Wall side there is fastned a Collar of Brass at present , but was formerly of Lead , and given by Charles the Fifth ; into this most Strangers that come put their Necks , at which time they ask them , Whether they will be sprinkled with water , or drink wine ? and if they choose the latter , they give an entertainment of Wine to the Company . The Queen of Sweden passing by this place , gave a great Silver Cup ; out of which they now drink at this Ceremony . We lodged this night at Wesel , a Town situated between a high Hill and the River , belonging to the Archbishop of Triers . Here in the Market-place they shew'd us the print of St. Hubert's Horses foot in a Free-stone .

Baccharach . On the 19 th we came to Baccharach , or ad Bacchiaras , belonging to the Elector Palatine ; a place famous for excellent Wines . We passed by an old Castle seated upon a Rock in the middle of the Rhine , being of an irregular figure , called P●alts , where formerly the Prince Psalts Caste . Palatines of the Rhine were born , the Princesses being sent hither to be brought to Bed . We came this night to Dreickshausen ; the next day we went by a dangerous Passage , there being many Rocks under water , which cause the River to run very rapid and unequally . A little above this we came to a round Tower , on a Rock in the Rhine , called Mouse-Tower . the Mouse-tower , built by Hatto Archbishop of Mentz , in the year 900. who , as the Story goes , in a time of great Scarcity , pretending to relieve the poor who wanted bread , invited them together into a Barn , where he burnt them all , saying , They were like the Rats and Mice which would devour the Corn. After which he was so persecuted with Rats and Mice , that to avoid them he caused this Tower to be built in the middle of the Rhine , which did not avail him , for they followed him thither also , and at last devoured him . A little above this lies Bing upon the Western shoar ; a considerable Town , belonging to the Elector of Mentz : here our Boat stayed to pay Custom , as it had done also at Bonna , Liutz , Hammerstein , Andernach , Coblentz , Lodesheim , Bopport , St. Gower , Cub , and Baccarach . For the trade of the Rhine being great , Princes and Lords who have Towns upon it , make use of that advantage , which , though it abates the gains of the Merchant , brings considerable profit to themselves .

Bing . Bing , or Bingium , was an old Roman Fortress upon the Rhine , where the River Navus or Naw enters into it ; over which latter there is a handsome Stone-bridge : In this Town were many of the Duke of Lorrain's Army sick and wounded , who three weeks before had maintained a fight against the Forces of the Elector Palatine , near this place . From Bing we continued our Journey to Mentz : at Rudesheim in Rhinegaw , a place noted for good Wine , they shewed us a Boy , whose hair was thick and woolly , like to the African Moors , but of a fine white colour , which being somewhat an odd fight , I took away some of his hair with me .

Mentz . Mentz , Moguntia , Moguntiacum , and by the French Mayence , is seated over against the Confluence of the River Main , with the Rhine , or rather a little below it ; in a fertile Country , abounding in all Provisions and good Wine ; it lies at length , and is most extended towards the River ; and that part excels the other towards the Land , which is not so populous or well-built : It is a strong place , and well guarded ; it hath many Churches and Monasteries , and some fair Buildings , especially those of publick concern , as the Palace of the Elector , and others : But the narrowness of the Streets , and many old Houses , take away much from the beauty of the City . It is an University , begun about the year 1486. or as others will have it 1461. This place also challenges the Invention of Printing , or at least the first promotion or perfection thereof : And the Territory about it is famous for the destruction of the Roman Legions under Varus , by the Germans . Gustavus Adolphus , King of Sweden , was wonderfully pleased upon the taking of this City , 1631. entring into it in State upon the 14 th of December , it being his Birth-day , which began the 38 th year of his life , and kept his Court and Christmas here ; where at one time there were with him six chief Princes of the Empire , twelve Ambassadors of Kings , States , Electors , and Princes ; besides Dukes and Lords , and the Martial men of his own Army . At the taking of the Town , they found great store of Ordnance and Powder ; and the City redeemed it self from Pillage by giving the King a Ransom of Eighty thousand Dollars ; and the Clergy and Jews gave Two and twenty thousand more ; of which the Jews paid Eighteen thousand ; Archbishop Wamhold saving himself upon the Rhine , and retiring to Colen . The King caused also two great Bridges to be made , one over the Main , founded upon fifteen great flat bottom'd Boats , the rest being built upon great Piles of Wood : Another over the Rhine supported by sixty one great flat Boats , each lying the distance of an Arch from one another ; and many Families of people living sometimes in the Boats under the Bridge . The Bridge over the Main is taken away ; but that over the Rhine is still continued : Upon which I saw the present Elector passing in his Coach ; a Person of great Gravity , of a middle Stature , having long grey Hair , and was very Princely attended ; his Name is Joannes Philippus of the Noble Family of Schoenburg , Elector and Archbishop of Mentz , Bishop of Wurtzburg , and Bishop of Worms , Arch-Chancellor of the Empire for all Germany ; the first of the Electoral College ; in all publick Conventions he sits at the right hand of the Emperor , and is a Successor of the famous Boniface , an English man , Bishop of Mentz , who very much promoted the Christian Religion in these parts . But though his Dignity and Place excel the two other Ecclesiastical Electors of Colen and Triers , yet his Territories come short ; and they lie not together , but scatteringly with those of the Palatinate , Spier , Franckfort , and divers places in Franconia . But of late he hath much encreased his Power , by seizing the great City of Erfurdt in Turingia , which he hath since much beautified and strengthned by a Citradel built upon St. Peters-hill .

In the year One Thousand one hundred and fourteen , the Emperor Henry the Fourth sent an Ambassador to the King of England , Henry the First , requesting that Maude the Kings daughter whom he had formerly espoused by Proxy , might now , being Marriage-able , be sent to him : to which request the King most willingly condescended , and the Princess was presently conducted by his greatest Peers into Germany , and at Mentz was married to Henry the Fourth , and there Crowned his Empress . Franckfort .

From Mentz I passed by water up the River Main , to Franckfort , a free City of the Empire , called Trajectum Franconum , a Passage or Ford of the Franks , as serving them for a Retreat , when they entred or returned from Gaul ; at present Franckford upon the Main , to difference it from Franckford upon the River Oder , which is an University : It is a large Town , divided into two parts by the River ; the lesser called Saxonhausen , or Saxon-houses , united to the other by a Stone-bridge over the Main , of twelve or thirteen Arches . It is a place of good Trade , and well seated for it , as having the advantage of the River Main , which passes by Bamberg , Schweinfurt , Wurtzburg , Guemund , or Gaudia mundi ; and also the Tauber , and other Rivers running into it , affords conveniency for Commerce with the remoter parts of Franconia ; and the Main running into the Rhine , makes a large communication both up and down that Stream .

But this place is most remarkable for the Election of the Emperor , which , by the Laws of the G lden Bull , should be in this City , as also for two great Marts or Fairs kept in March and September ; at which times there is an extraordinary concourse of people from remote parts , in order to buying and selling of several Commodities , especially for Books , as well printed here as in other parts , whereof they afford two Catalogues every year , and have no small dealings that way , by the Factors of the Germans , Hollanders , Italians , French , and English : although at other times their trading in Books seems not great ; for when I was there out of the time of the Mart , the Stationers Shops being shut up , made but a dull show . Here are also a great number of good Horses bought and sold : and on the North-side of the City there is a spacious place for a Horse-Fair . The City is strong and well fortified ; and most part of the Town are Lutherans . In the German Wars , the King of Sweden having taken Hanaw , sent a Messenger to Franckfort to know whether the City would peaceably and speedily set open their Gates unto him , and accept fairly of a Garrison , or stand to the hazard of a Siege : And although they were unwilling to yield , yet for fear of the worst , they consented , That the King should have free passage for his Army through the City ; and that for the better assurance of it , six hundred of his men should be received for a Garrison into Saxonhausen ; and also that the Magistrates and People should take an Oath unto his Majesty . So that upon the 17 th of November , 1631. the King's Army passed through Saxonhausen over the Bridge , quite through the Town . Colonel Vitzthumb was left Governour in Saxonhausen ; and the King himself rode bare headed through the Streets : and by his obliging behaviour did generally win the affections of the beholders ; and three days after returned thither again with the Landtgrave of Hessen-Cassell , and the Landtgrave of Hessen-Darmstadt , where they met the Seventeen Earls of the Wetteraw , or Veteravia , and were feasted in the same room where the Emperors at their Coronation use to be entertained .

In Saxonhausen there is a House anciently belonging unto the Knights of the Teutonick Order , which hath the privilege of a Sanctuary for Man-slayers and Bankrupts ; but it is a security but for fourteen days . Upon this side th●re is the largest portion of Land belonging to Franckfort ; on the other side very little .

This being a trading place , it is no wonder that there are so many Jews in it ; for a distinction they wear great Ruffs , their Sons Bonnets , and their Wives a peculiar dress of their Head .

The Collegiate Church of St. Bartholomew , where many of the Emperors have been crowned , is large , hath a high Steeple , and is built of a red stone . There are divers handsome Fountains in the Town , and good Houses ; in one of the best of which live Monsieur Pierre Neufville , a great Merchant , and a civil worthy person well known in most places of Commerce ; who obliged me with Letters to Venice , and other places . Darmstadt .

From Franckfort I continued my Journey through the Bergstraes , passing by Darmstadt , which belongs to one of the Brothers of the House of Hessen , commonly known by the name of the Landtgrave of Hessen Darmstadt ; and afterwards through a fruitful plain Country , in the sight of Hills , and sometimes near them : the whole Country planted with Walnut-trees , Vines , Corn , and in some places with Tabaco ; till I arrived at Heidellerg .

In coming into this Town we passed over the River Neccar , Nicer , or Necarus , upon a Bridge covered over from one end to another , with a large Roof of Wood : in the same manner is the long Bridge covered at the entrance of the City of Alessandria della paglia in Italy .

The River Neccar . The River Neccar arises near the Sylva Martiana , now Swartzwald , or Black Forest , and passing through the Territories of the Duke of Wittenberg , runs into the Rhine at Manheim : This , though none of the greatest , yet is a considerable River of Germany ; and hath divers good Towns upon it and near it , as Sultz , Tubingen , Wirtingen , Essingen , Stutgard , Canstat , Lauffen , Hallbrun , Heidelberg .

There being Wars at that time when I was in this Country , between the Elector Palatine and the Duke of Lorrain : The Elector resided for the most part at Frankendale , to be near his Forces .

Heidelberg . Heidelberg is seated on the South-side of the River Neccar , between it and a ridge of high Hills , so as it cannot well admit of a modern Fortification , or hope to be extraordinary strong , as being over-looked by the adjacent Mountains : It lies most at length from East to West : It hath been an University since the year 134● . at which time it was begun by Rupertus , Count Palatine , and at present is much frequented . In the great Church was kept the famous Library , which , after that the Spaniards had taken this Town 1620. was carried to Rome , and added to the Vatican , where I saw it in the year 1664. being placed upon one side of a very long Gallery belonging to the Vatican Library ; and the Duke of Vrbin's Library placed on the otherside , over against it : both which made a notable addition to the Papal Library . In this Church and the Church also of St. Peter , are divers Monuments of Princes of the Palatine Family , and of Learned and Famous Men. The French have a Church here , and the present Elector is of the Order of the Holy-Ghost ; and his Son a Mareschal of France : and good French and High-dutch are both generally spoken here . The Lutherans have also a Church in this Town , by the favour of the present Elector ; although he himself be a Calvinist : and to express his generous kindness the higher in this point , the first Stone was laid by himself and his Son ; and it is called the Church of Providence , according to the Elector's Motto , Dominus Providebit .

Upon the Town-house is a Clock with divers Motions , and when the Clock strikes , the figure of an Old man pulls off his hat , a Cock crows , and shakes his wings , Souldiers fight with one another , and the like . The Prince's Stables for above a hundred Horses are seated upon the River very conveniently , but were fairer formerly , above half thereof having been ruined by the Imperalists ; as also divers of the Statues on the out-side of the Castle , which is seated high above the Town .

The present Elector is Carolus Ludovicus , Son to the King of Bohemia , Frederick the Fifth ; he was born in the year 1617. and passed his Youth an Exile from his Fathers Kingdom and Electorate : and at the pacification , at Prague 1635. he was excluded from any restitution to be made to him . But at length in the Treaty of Munster 1648. he was restored to the lower Palatinate , and 1657 returned to the possession of his Fortunes : a highly accomplished Prince , much honoured and beloved by his Subjects . In the year 1650. he married Charlotta , Daughter to William the Fifth Landgrave , and to the famous Amelia Elizabeth , Landgravess of Hassia ; by whom he had the Char Prince , or Electoral Prince Charles , and a Daughter , the Princess Charlotta Elizabetha ; but upon some discontent the Princess Electress since returned to her own Friends and Country . This Elector is also Knight of the most Noble Order of the Garter , Great Treasurer of the Empire , and together with the Elector of Saxony , Vicar of the Empire .

In his Palace or Castle at Heidelberg , are divers things remarkable ; a very great Tower to be equalled by very few ; within which is a Theatre for Comedies . This was formerly called Trutzkaisar , or the Tower that bad Defiance , or threatned the Emperor ; but since the Restauration of the Elector , there are some Works drawn about it in the figure of a Star , and the olddisobliging Name is by Proclamation forbidden to be continued , and it is at present called Sternschanz , or the Star-fort . By it is a handsom Garden ; in the Ditch whereof there was then kept a great Bear , and a very large Wolf . The Grotto's and Water works are very handsom : they were also making divers others , having the advantage of the side of the Hill to bring down the Water , and to make Grots and Caves in the Rock . Amongst other Fountains , that of the Lions head with a Frog in his Ear , is taken notice of . The Cellars are very large and cool , filled with Vessels of no ordinary size ; yet inconsiderable , if compared to the great Tun kept in a great Building joyning to the Cellars ; it was built by this present Elector's Orders , 1664. and goes far beyond any made before : It contains 204 Faiders and odd measure , or about two hundred Tuns : instead of Hoops it is built with large knee Timber , like the ribs of a Ship , which are painted and carved , and have divers Inscriptions upon them , and supported by carved Pedestals . Upon one side of it is a handsom Stair case to ascend to the top of the Vessel ; upon the top of which is a Gallery set round with Ballisters , three and forty steps high from the ground .

About an English Mile from Heidelberg , between the Hills , is a solitary place , where three large Streams or Springs gush out of the Mountain , and presently fill five Ponds , have three handsom Cascates or Falls , and after run into the Plain , and are strong enough in a small space to turn four Mills ; this is called Wolfsbrun , or the Wolfs Fountain , from a Princess who formerly retired into a Cave in this desert place , and was here devoured by a Wolf .

While I was at Heidelberg , two English men came kindly to me , Mr. Villers , and Timothy Middleton , belonging to Lobensfeldt Cloister , a Convent formerly of the Jesuites , but since let out to about an hundred English , who left their Country 1661. came up the Rhine , and by the permission of the Elector , settled themselves a few Miles from hence , living all together , Men , Women , and Children , in one house ; and having a Community of many things : They are of a peculiar Religion , calling themselves Christian Jews ; and one Mr. Poole , formerly living at Norwich , is their Head . They cut not their Beards , and observe many other Ceremonies and Duties , which they either think themselves obliged to from some Expressions in the old Testament , or from some New Exposition of their Leaders .

From Heidelburg I made an excursion , and had a sight of Spire , seated in a Plain , on the West-side of the Rhine ; a place of Antiquity , conceived to be Vrbs Nemetum of old ; a large place and populous . The King of Sweden in the German Wars demolished the Works about it , not willing to spare so great a number of his Souldiers as was required to Garrison it , and make it good . It is an Episcopal See under the Arch-Bishop of Mentz : there are many fair Houses in it , divers Churches , and a fair Cathedral , with four large Towers . The Romanists , the Lutherans and Calvinists preach in it at several hours . It is the more populous , and filled with people of good quality , by reason of the concourse of persons from other parts of Germany , for the decision of Law Suits : For here the Imperial Chamber is held , and many differences which arise in the Empire are determined , and the Electors and other Princes , in some Tryals at Law , may be called hither . It is a settled Court , which Maximilian the First , for the better ease of all persons , placed first at Worms , and not long after it was fixed at Spire , from whence it cannot be now removed , but by the consent of all the Estates . Things Cognoscible in this Court are determined by an Imperial Judge , and sealed with the Emperours Arms , so that there lies no appeal unto the Emperor .

Another day I went to Manheim , formerly a Village , seated at the Confluence of the Rhine and Neccar ; but walled about by the Elector Frederick the Fourth , and since is much encreased ; all the Streets being large and uniform , and a Noble Cittadel built ; within which , over against the Gate , the Elector designs a Palace , the Model of which I saw : and at present , on the right hand , there are three Pavilions of Lodgings : in one of which lodges the Elector Palatine ; in another the Prince his Son ; and in the third the Princess his Daughter : behind these there is a handsome Garden and Lodgings for Degen Felderen , the Churfursts Mistress . Here are some good Pictures , as a Head of Hans Holben , and a Landskip with the Story of the Union of the Swissers . The Bridge over the Moat of the Cittadel into the Town , is also remarkable , as having six Draw-bridges upon it , three great ones , and three small ones on the side . There are Palisado's all along the bottom , in the middle of the Ditch , and without upon the Esplanade .

From Heidelberg I travelled to Nurnberg in the Company of Captain Wagenseyl , who had been in the Polish and Hungarian Wars , and was employed a little before in blowing up the Castle of Launsteyn , belonging to the Elector Palatine , to prevent its surprisal by the Duke of Lorrain . He was then employed to raise a Company at Nurnberg , for the Service of the Elector Palatine . I had a good advantage in my Journey by his Company ; for he travelled with Authority , and was a generous , knowing , and courteous person .

The first day we travelled near to the Neccar , in stony and rocky way ; and it being dark before we came to Mospach , the Peasants conducted us from Village to Village with bundles of lighted Straw .

The next day we came to Poxberg , where there is an old Castle , and in the afternoon reached Morkenthal , or Mergetheim , the Seat of the Grand Master of the Herrhn Deutchern , or the Teutonick Order . The Town is well built , hath a fair Piazza , with a large Fountain in it , and a Statue of one of the Grand Masters , with a long Corridore from his Palace . This Order hath been of great Fame , and hath had large Possessions , as may be seen in the exact Account of the Teutonick Knights of Prussia , made out from the best Authors , by my worthy honoured Friend Mr. Ashmole , in his Noble Description of the Order of the Garter ; and as Lewis du May , Counsellor unto the Duke of Wirtenberg , hath set it down . For the Knights Templers and of St. John , having fought prosperously against the Infidels , raised an Emulation in some German Gentlemen , who waited upon the Emperor Frederick the First , in his Expedition to the Holy Land , to take the Croisado . And because they were installed in the Church and Hospital of St. Mary at Jerusalem , they were called , Marianites . Their Order differed nothing from those above-mentioned , but in the form and colour of their Cross , and was approved by Pope Celestin the Third . Afterwards when Jerusalem was taken by Saladin , those Knights betook themselves to Ptolemais , from whence the Emperor Frederick the Second , sent them back into Germany , and employed them against the Prussians and Livonians , who at that time were still Pagans . But by the Valour and Piety of those Knights , their Souls were brought into subjection to Christ , and their Bodies to the Order which began that War in the year 1220. a little while after these Knights found themselves Masters of a Country of very large Extent , which obeyed the Order , till the year 1525. at which time Sigismond , King of Poland , gave the investiture of Prussia unto Albert Marquess of Brandenburg . In the year 1563. the Great Master became Secular again , and took a part of the Lands subject to the Order , with the name of Duke of Curland . And Livonia having been the Subject and Theatre of many Wars between the Polanders , Muscovites , and Swedes ; these last did at length become Masters of it , and have it in possession still . So that there is no more remaining of the Teutonick Order , but some Commanderies scattered here and there in Germany . And the Great Master hath his Seat and Residence at Mergenthal .

They wear on a white Matle a plain black Cross . The Dignity of Grand Master is generally held by some Great and Honourable Person ; and in the Great Assembly he takes place of al Bishops . The present is the Baron of Amring ; and the Grand Master before him was Leopold William , only Brother to the Emperor Ferdinand the Third .

From hence we travelled to Lauterbach , near which we passed through a Wood , and found a Noble Church upon the top of a high Hill , which being much frequented by Pilgrims , they have made handsome stone Stairs from the bottom to the top : then to Rotenburg , and lodged at Burgperner , and the next day by Schantzbach we came to Nurenberg . Rotenburg is an Imperial City , which some have likened unto Jerusalem for its Situation upon hilly places and many Turrets in it . It is Situated near the head of the River Tauber , which may be accounted the second River of Franconia , passing by Rottingen , Lander , Nurenberg . and Werthaim , where it runs into the Main .

Nurenberg is the fairest City that I saw in Germany ; the Houses most of them of Free-stone , very high ; and divers of them painted on the outside , and adorned with gilded Balls on the top ; many are of six or seven Stories high . Der Herr Peller hath one of the fairest . The City is very populous and full of Trade , although it stands in a barren Country , and wants a Navigable River . The three best Churches are the Hospital Church , lately built very fair ; St. Laurence , which is very large , with two high Steeples in the Front ; and St. Sebald the best of the three . The Body of St. Sebald being laid upon a Cart drawn with Oxen , in that place where the Oxen stood still , they buried the Body , and erected this Church in his Memory . In this Church is a Crucisix of Wood , very well carved , and esteemed at a high rate . The Crucisix without the Church is very great , and of a black colour : and some fancy that the Raht Herrn , or Magistrates of the Town , have reposited a Treasure within it . The Pulpit is well carved and gilded , and the whole Church so stately , that it may pass in the first rank of Lutheran Churches ; that Religion being here practised in its splendour . The Priest every morning reads the Scripture to the people for half an hour , or preaches a Sermon . The Town-house is well worth the seeing : In it the Hall is spacious , as also the Chambers , and furnished with good Pictures , and Stoves well gilded and painted with white and gold , green and gold , dark coloured and gold , and the like . There is one Picture of most of the Great Persons in Germany entertained in the Great Hall ; another of the three Brothers of Saxony ; one of an Elephant as big as the life ; a piece of St. John and St. Mark , and another of St. Peter and St. Paul , both by Albert Durer : but the most rare piece is that of Adam and Eve , by the same Master , with this Inscription .

Albertus Durer Almang faciebat post Virginis partum , 1507. Another excellent one is that of St. Luke drawing the Picture of our Saviour and the blessed Virgin : Over the Gate at the entrance of the Shambles is a large Oxe carved in Wood , and painted over , with this Inscription : Omnia habent ortus suaque incrementa , sed ecce Quem cernis , nunquam Bos fuit●●ic , Vitulus . The Castle stand upon a high Hill , from whence the Town makes a handsome show : In it are observable a very deep well , the Emperors Chappel , his Picture , and the Pictures of the Electors ; good Night pieces ; and one of a man behind a white Curtain transparent , very well expressed . The Armour of Hebbele van Gailinghen the great Sorcerer is here shown ; and in the Wall of the Castle the marks of his Horses feet , when he leaped from thence over the Town ditch .

The new Fountain was not then finished ; but the Statua's in Brass made for it were excellent ; the Sea Horses large , the Sea-Nymphs much bigger than the life ; and N ptune , who was to stand on the top , is above three yards and a halfhigh . When I came first into this place , I was not a little surprized to behold the fairness of the Houses , handsome Streets , different Habits , industrious People , and neatness in all things , more than I had observed in German Cities before ; and no place hath greater number of curious Artificers in Steel , Brass , Ivory , Wood , wherein they work at an extraordinary cheap rate ; and there are Officers to inspect and enquire into the works of Artificers , that they be true , perfect and without fraud : they make strong and handsome Clock-work . The King of Poland presented the Grand Seignior with a very noble Clock , who took so much delight in it , that when it required some mending ( the Turks being ignorant in Clock-work ) he sent it from Adrianople as far as Nurenburg to be set in order again .

Gustavus Adolphus , King of Sweden , was more magnificently received and entertained in this City , than in any other of Germany ; which so incensed Wallenst●yn , that he afterwards encamped before their Town , and did great spoil upon their Territories : But the King of Sweden , marched thither towards their Relief , and from thence towards Lutzen , where in a bloody Battel he lost his life .

The River Pegnitz runnes through Nurnberg , and hath divers Stone Bridges over it ; and below the Town , joyning with the River Rednitz , runs into the River Main at Bamberg ; and the Main runs at last into the Rhine . The Reduitz arises at Weissenberg , and is not far from the River Altmul , which runs into the Danube , towards Regens●urg . Upon this convenience , Charles the great designed to make a Communication of passage between the Danube and the Rhine ; and made a C●nal● thirty paces abroad between the Rednitz and the Altmul , to joyn those Streams for the commodity of Passage by Boat ; but after he had prooceeded two German miles in this work , Boggs , Rains , and his warlike Diversions made him give over that noble Design , whereby there might have been a Commerce by water , from the Low C un ries to Vienna , and even unto the Euxine Sea .

The Roman Lieutenant in Nero's time , had a desire to unite the River Soane and the Mosella ; and to make a passage between the Mediterranean and the German Ocean ; having been at the mouth of the Mosella by Coblentz , and passed from Chaalon upon the soft and noble River Araris or Soane unto Lyon , I cannot but think these very goodly Streams , and fit for such a purpose . The present King of France hath a design to unite the River Aude with the Garonne , and so to have a passage by Boat from the Mediterranean Sea by Tholouse and Bourdeaux , into the Ocean . When I travelled in those parts , viewing the Country well , I thought it would be a difficult work , and so it proves : but the King hath proceeded already very far therein .

About four Leagues from Nurnberg lies Altdorff , belonging unto it , made an University in the year 1623. containing when I was there , about 150 Scholars . The Physick Garden is handsome , and well stocked with Plants , to the number of two thousand . Dr Hoffman the Botanick and Anatomick Professour , shew'd me many of the most rare of them ; and presented me divers . The Anatomy School is not large ; yet the only one in those parts of Germany : And they have divers curiosities preserved in it , as the Skeleton of a Hart , of a Horse , of a Man , of a Bear bigger than a Horse : And some Pictures , as one of a Ninivite , and another of Moses , which they take to be Ancient . Dr. Wagenseyl , Professour of Law and History , brother to Captain Wagenseyl , who travelled with me from Heidellerg , invited us to lodge at his House , and shew'd me his Library , and all his Rareties and Coyns , whereof he hath a good Collection , having lived in most places of Europe , and speaks many Languages well ; he gave me a piec● of the first money that was coined in Germany . In the University ●●brary I saw a fair Hortus Eystetensis , and Toungerman's Collection of Plants by his own hand .

At Nurnberg I met with the Son and the Secretary to the 〈◊〉 Ambassador in Turky , who had travelled hither over-land from 〈◊〉 stantinople in their return into the Low-Countries , travelling in Greek Habits .

From hence I went to Newmark , a good Town in the upper Palatinate belonging to the Duke of Barvaria , and the next day through Heinmaw , subject to the Duke of Newberg , to Regensburg .

Ratisbona , Regensburg , Augusta Tiberli , Colonia Qua●tanorum , the chief place of the Ramans in this limit of the Empire , where the fourth Italick Legion had a constant station ; was made a Colony by Tiberius in the year , as some conceive , of the Passion of our Saviour . It was much augmented and adorned by the Emperour Arnulphus , who had a great affection for this place , so pleasantly seated , and in a good Country . Here the River Regen runs into the Danube ; from whence it was called Regensburg . There are two Bridges , one of wood below the Town , and another Bridge of stone of about fifteen Arches ; which is the fairest stone Bridge over the Danube . It is an Imperial City , but not without some acknowledgement to the Duke of Bavaria : And although it be strongly fortified , yet it was taken by the Swedes in the German wars . There are many fair buildings in it , both private and publick ; and though I am not able to confirm what some report , that there as aremany Churches and Chappels in this City , as there are days in the year ; yet are there many fair Churches and Convents : As the Cathedral of St. Peter , on the South-side of which is the Picture of St. Peter in a ship ; andon the North another of the Apostles first Mission . In the Piazza stands a neat little Church , the Convent of St. Paul , founded by St. Wolfgangus , Bishop of this place , the Convent of St. Emerammus Bishop of Ratisbone , a Saint of great Veneration here , though Rutisbone . but of little mention or name in other parts . The name of Albertus Magnus , Bishop of this place , hath also added unto the Fame of Regensburg .

But that which chiefly promotes its lustre , is the General Diet or Parliament , which is often held in this City , and is not to be called in any part out of Germany ; and the place is not unfit for the accommodation of such a noble Convention , as are the Estates of Germany . The Vice-Marshal takes care to provide Lodgings respectively to their persons ▪ and sees that all things be brought hither , and at a just price ; that the Hall or Place of Assembly be furnished and adorned suitably to the dignity of the Persons convened , and hath an especial eye and regard towards the Publick safety . By this Convention the great Concerns of Germany are much secured , and their peace and quiet Established . Wherein Germany seems to have a better advantage than Italy ; For Italy being likewise divided into many Dominions and Principalities hath no Common Diet or Great Council , whereby to proceed for their Publick safety : Which makes them often so divided in their common Concerns in times of Danger , and when they most need a joynt Combination .

I entred the notable River Danubius at this place , which hath already run a good course , and passed by many fair Towns or Cities ; as the large City of Vlme in Swabenland , where it begins to be Navigable ; as also Donawert , Neuburg , and Ingolstadt , and hath already received the considerable River of Licus or Leck whereby the Commodities of that great trading City of Augsberg , are brought into it . When I first embarked at Regensburg , I thought I might have taken leave of the Danube not far below Vienna , but an opportunity made me see this great Stream beyond Belgrade , as I have declared in another Account of my Travels .

The first day we passed by Thonawsteyn , where there is a Castle seated upon a high Rock , and came to Pfeter or Vetera Castra of old , now but an ordinary place . The Boats upon the Danube are generally painted black and white , are flat bottom'd , and broad at the Head and Stern ; there is a Chamber built in the middle ; and the Rudder is very large , to be able to command the Boat where the River is rapid , and of a Swift Course .

Straubing . The next day we came to Straubing , a handsome walled Town , belonging to the Duke of Bavaria ; the Streets are streight ; and there is a Tower in the Market-place , painted all over with green and gold colour : There is also a Bridge of wood over the Danube . We passed by Swartz in the Afternoon , where the Church is seated upon a Hill , and is frequented by Pilgrims , and lodged at Deckendorff , where there is another Bridge . Near this Town comes into the Danube that considerable River Iser , or Isara , having passed by divers considerable Towns ; as Landshut , Frising , and Müchen , the Seat of Ferdinandus Maria , Elector of Bavaria , Great Steward of the Empire , and at present the first of the Secular Electors , and he is to take place immediately after the King of Bohemia , it being to concluded on at the Treaty of Munster , where Maximilian Duke of Bavaria was allowed to hold the Electorship , which was confirmed upon him by the Emperor Ferdinand the Second , when he excluded Frederick the Fifth , Count Palatine , and in lieu hereof there was an eight Electorship erected for the Palatinate Family , who also , if the Bavarian branch doth fail , are to re-enter into their ancient Electorship and the other newly erected is to be abolished .

Thursday , November the fifteenth , we came by Wilshoven to Passaw , Patavia , or Boiodurum , a long and noble City in the lower Bavaria , or Bayern , made up of three Towns , Iltzstadt Passaw , and Innstadt , at the concurrence of the River Inn ▪ the Danube , and the jltz . As Towns are commonly of great Antiquity which are built at the Confluence of great Rivers , for the Strength of the Situation and convenience of Commerce ; so is this accounted ancient , as being a Roman Colony , and the place of the Castra Batava in old time .

The Church of St. Stephen is stately , besides other fair Churches . The Bishop , who is Lord of the City , hath a strong Palace upon a Hill ; his Revenues are large , and besides what he possesses hereabouts , he hath the tenth part of the notable great Lead-Mine at Bleyberg in Carinthia . This place had lately suffered much by fire ; but a good part was rebuilt , and very fairly after the Italian manner : So that this may well be reckoned as one of the ten considerable Cities , which are upon the Danube , accounting from Vlme unto Belgrade , as Vlme , Ingolstadt , Ratisbone , Passaw , Lintz , Vienna , Presburg , Strigonium , Buda , Belgrade ; all which from Ratisbone I had the opportunity to see before the end of my Journey . Near to a Wall over against the great Church at Passaw , which was then repairing , I saw a vast Head cut in stone , the Mouth whereof was two spans wide , and the rest proportionable . The River Iltz , which runs in here from the North , is considerable for the Pearls which are found in it ; and the noble River Inne or Oenus , from the South , is the greatest River which hath yet entred the Danube ; having passed by Insbrug , and taken in the River Saltz , upon which stands Saltzburg ; and arising in the Alpes in such a high Country as Tirolis , it runs in here with a great force , and adds much unto the swiftness of the Danube .

Upon the Sixteenth we came to Lintz , the chief City in the higher Lintz . Austria , not very great , but as neat and handsome a City as most in Germany . There is in it a very great Market-place , with never a bad House in it , the whole Town built of a very white Free-stone ; and the Castle upon the Hill is of Mordern Building , and very large . There is also a Bridge over the Danube . The Imperial Forces rendezvoused here when Solyman came to Vienna . This was also besieged by the Peasants of Austria in the time of Ferdinand the Second ; they having got a Body together of Forty thousand men , and many pieces of Ordnance , but were stoutly repulsed after many Assaults , and at last overcome by Papenheim . Not far below Lintz the River Draun enters the Danube ; this comes from the Gemundner Sea , or Lacus Felicis , passing by Lampack , Weltz , and other Towns , and hath a noted Cataract or Fall of Waters .

The Whirle-poole in the Danube , I. Oliv●r 〈◊〉〈◊〉

The next day we passed by Ens , Anisia , upon the River Anisius , or Onasus , which taking its original in the Borders of Saltzburgland runs into the Danube , and divides the higher from the lower Austria , having received into it self the River Saltza , upon which stands Cell , or Maria Cell , a place of the greatest Pilgrimage in Austria . Near this Town are many Roman Coyns and Antiquities found , and Lauriacum stood of old , a Roman Garrison , and afterwards a Biship's See : we came to a Village on the North shoar of the Danube , called Greim , where the Graff von Leichtensteyn hath a House . A little below this are two dangerous passages in the River ; the one called the Strudel , where the River running amongst vast Rocks , some under water , and some above , the waves are broken with great force , and the Current is rapid , foaming , and troublesome ; and some skill is required to pass between the Ledges of Rocks which are under water , and when the water is low the passage is very difficult . The other is the Wurbel , or a kind of Whirlpool , where the water turns about with great force , being hindred in its direct Course by a great Rock . Upon the top of a high craggy Rock stands a large Cross , and at the foot a little Church dedicated to St. Nicholas , who is Patron of this dangerous place , and is believed to take peculiar care of such as pass this way , and therefore a little Boat comes to you as soon as you are out of danger , and recieves what Acknowledgment you please , or what perhaps you may have promised to give , when you were in some fear . This night we lodged at Ips , Ipsium , or Ibissa , a Town on the South-side of the Danube : over against it lies Besenbeug , or Vsbium Pt●lom●ei . Two German miles below Ips stands Pechlarn , conceived to be Arlape in former times ; and here the River Erlaph enters the Danube : A mile and a half below this lies Melcke , Nomale , or Mea dialecta , in former days the Seat of the Marquesses of Austria , until St. Leopold removed to Kalenberg , and his Successours to Vienna . The Town lies at length upon the South-side of the River ; but the noble Cloister of Benedictines , which takes place of any other in Austria , stands upon a Hill which over-looks the Town , the River , and the Country about ; is richly endowed , and remarkable for the Monuments of many great Persons , and the Tomb of St. Colman , much honoured in these parts . We dined at Steyn , where there is a Bridge over the Danube . Near to this lies Crembs , another walled Town ; and over the water Mautern ; and not far from it the rich Convent of Ketwein ; After this the River Traisn , or Tragisama , comes in from the South . Having passed by the noted Town St. Pold , or St. Hippolitus , we lodged this Night at St. Eldorff , and the next day passed by Thuln , Stockerau , and Cloistor Neuburg , to Vienna .

THE DESCRIPTION OF VIENNA .

VIENNA , or Wien , which the Turks call Beach , is the Chief City of Austria , in the Latitude of forty eight Degrees , twenty Minutes , not much differing from the Latitude of Paris . The old Seat of the Dukes of Austria , and for a long time of the Emperors of Germany . According to ancient account it stands in Pannonia superior , the Bounds of Pannonia extending unto Kalemberg , or Mons Cetius , five or six Miles Westward of Vienna ; beyond which still Westward all that lies between that Hill and the great River Oenus , or Inne , which runs into the Danube at Passaw , or Castra Batava , was anciently called Nori●um .

It was an ancient place of Habitation in the time of the Romans , and called Vindobona , as the Learned Petrus Lambecius hath at large declared , where the Classis Istrica sometimes lay , and the tenth German Legion had its station ; all this shoar or side of the Danube being famous for the Actions of Roman Emperors against the Marcomanni and Quadi , who possessed the Country on the other side of the River , and especially for the Wars of Marcus Aurelius Antoninus Philosophus , who notably defeated those Nations , and who , as Aurelius Vic●or ( who was Governor of Sirmium in Pannonia in●erior , in the time of Constantius ) affirms , fell sick at Carnuntum , now Petronel , and died at Vindobona , now Vienna . And to confirm the Antiquity hereof , besides what Wolfgangus Lazius hath delivered , not many years since some Antiquities were found . For in the year 1662. when a Wall was digged up near ▪ the old Palace , the Workmen digging still on below the Foundation , found a Stone Trough or Coffin , containing hard Earth and Bones , with a small Gold Coyn , a Glass Urn enclosed in a Brass one , an Iron Knife like a Sicespita , or Knife used about Sacrifices , a little Roll or Scroll of pure Gold , shut up with a Golden cover at both ends , wherein was an Inscription in strange Characters : Not far from the Sepulchral Monument were found a Head in Brass , a Brazen Patera , Lamps , Lachrymatories , and other Vessels , and a Copper Coyn of Antoninus Caracalla . The writing in the Golden Scroll , which no man could read , was conceived by the Learned Lambecius to be the old Pannonian Character , and that this might be the Monument of some Pannonian Priest in the days of Caracalla , who , as good Authors deliver , spent some time about these parts .

It is seated on the South-side of the Danube , on the ripa Romana , that side nearest to Rome , and many Roman Colonies , according to the usual position of Roman Stations , both upon this River and the R●ine , as may be exemplified in Colen , Bonna , Andarnach , Coblentz , Ments , Wormes , Spier , and Strasburg . And in like manner in the old Roman Stations , on the South or Roman side of the Danube , which were in no small number in or near the Austrian shoar , as Carnuntum , or Petronel , Vischmund , or Aquinoctium , Ebersdorff , or Ala Nova , Melck , or Ncmale , Arlape , or Pechlarne , Lentia , or Lintz ; for hereby they better secured their Conquests , and hindred the incursions of the Barbarians before them .

It is not seated upon the main stream of the Danube , but by a branch thereof ; for the River running through a low Country ; it is divided into several Streams , and makes many Islands . A small River named Wien runs by the East part of this City , and enters the Danube , below it , which upon floods doth often much hurt , yet sometimes low and very shallow , so as I have stepped over it ; some will have it to give the Name unto this City : it divides part of the Suburbs from it , and hath divers Bridges over it . For that we may have a distinct apprehension of Vienna , we must consider the City and Suburbs thereof ; the Suburbs are very great , and not without fair Houses , Gardens , Walks , and all Accommodations at large .

The City it self is that walled and fortified part , designed not only for convenience of Habitation , but also to sustain a Siege , or any Attack from the Turk , and is now separated from the Suburbs by a fair Esplanade , or open Ground , above a Musket shot over . The Houses near the wall were pulled down since the last Fortification in the Turkish war , when they were in some fear that the Turkish Forces about Gran and New-husel , would move towards them . It is fortified a la moderna , with ten Bastions towards the Land , and a very deep Ditch , into which they can let the Da●ube : and with two other Bastions towards the water , on that part of the River which lies on the North-side of the Town . These two latter are called the Works of Gonzaga . The Bastions are large ; upon one of them I saw Count Souches muster a good part of the Militia of the City . The Ditch is large and very deep , into which although they can let in the River , yet it is commonly kept dry , lest they might incommode their deep Cellars . There are two walls , the one old and inward , little considerable at present , built at first with the ransom of our King Richard the First , who in his return from the Holy War , was detained Prisoner by the Duke of Austria upon the 20 th of December , 1192. The Austrians pretending they had received some affront from the King at Joppa , and that he had taken down the Ensign and Banner of Duke Leopold in a contemptuous way . The other outward of a great breadth , made of Earth , and faced with Brick , edged with Free-stone , so well built , as to render this City one of the most considerable fortified places in Europe . The Esplanade gently descends from the Town for three hundred Paces ; there are very few Outworks .

It is very uncertain who was the first Builder of Vienna , and after it had been long built it ran to decay again for Four hundred years together , till Henry the First , Duke of Austria , in the year 1158. did much repair it ; and the ransom afterwards of King Richard beautified it .

The whole compass , taking in the Suburbs , makes a very large Circuit , but the City it self , which is walled in , may be about three miles in Circumference , and is exceeding populous , as full of People , for the bigness of the place , as most of the great Cities . And I could not but take delight to behold so many Nations in it , as Turks , Tartars , Graecians , Transylvanians , Sclavonians , Hungarians , Croatians , Spaniards , Italians , French , Germans , Polanders , &c. all in their proper Habits .

The chief Gates are six : 1. Stubnthor , or the Stuben Gate towards the East . 2. Karnterthor , or the Gate of Carinthia towards the South . 3. Burg●hor , the Town Gate , or Castle Gate . 4. Schottenthor , or the Scotch Gate . 5. Newthor , or the Neagate ; these two last towards the West : And 6. the Gate of the red Tower towards the North , which leads unto the Bridge over the Danube : and towards the water-side there is also a Port by the Emperor's palace , and a Cloyster or Nunnery in the Town hath the Name of a Port called Himmel port , or the Gate of Heaven . The five first of these Gates are vaulted and arched with long passages through the Town-wall , and have good Bridges of Wood , with Draw-bridges to pass over the Town ditch : The sixth is under a Tower , and leads to the Bridges of the Danube : For that River runs here in a flat low Country , divides its streams , so that to pass it quite over , there are at present seven long Bridges made up of many thousand Trees laid one by another , after their way of making Bridges . There is also a Bridge within the City of Vienna , called the Hochbrug , or High-bridge , which is made by the crossing of two Streets at equal Angles ; the ground of one street being as high as the tops of the Houses of the other , so th t to continue it , they were forced to build a Bridge or Arch in the Lower street , to let the upper to pass over it .

The City is fairly built of stone , and well paved ; many Houses are of six stories high ; they are somewhat flat roofed after the Italian way ; the Streets are not narrow , but the compass of ground will not admit them to be very broad ; and their Buildings are remarkable both above and below ground ; their Cellars are very deep . To satisfie my curiosity , I went into some of them , and found four Cellars one under another ; they were arched , and had two pair of Stairs to descend into them . Some have an open space in the middle of each roof , to let the Air out of one Cellar into another , and from the lowest an adit or tube unto the top , to let the Air in and out from the street , somewhat after the manner of the Mines .

Aenaeas Sylvius , about two hundred years since , commending the City of Nurnburg , among other expressions le ts fall this : Cuperent Scotorum Reges tam egregiè quam mediocres Cives Norinbergenses habitare . The Kings of the Scots would be content to dwell so well as the middle sorts of Citizens of Nurnburg . I must confess , when I first entred Nurnburg , I was much surprized to see such a noble , large , spruce , rich , and well built City : but Vienna doth also deserve the commendation which he affords it : Vbi Palatia digna Regibus , & Templa quae mirari Italia possit . Where there are Palaces fit for Kings , and Churches which Italy may admire . And this being spoken so long ago , is now better verified of it .

The Imperial Palace is very Noble , Substantial , and Princely furnished , consisting chiefly of two Courts ; the one very large , the other lesser , wherein the Emperor lodges . At the Entrance over the Gate , are set in Capitals Letters the five Vowels , A , E , I , O , V ; whereof the Phancies of men make various interpretations . That which was told me , was this , Austriae est imperare Orli Vniverso ; or , Alles Erdreich Ist Osterreich Vnterthan ; i. e. All the World is subject to Austria . Although I could hardly believe this was the first intended meaning . Besides these two Courts is another small one , where some of the Pages lodge . I took notice of a large rough Jaspis stone lying upon the ground , little regarded or observed : it is about nine foot Diameter ; it was presented unto the Emperor by the Archbishop of Saltzburg , whose Country assords notable Quarries , and stones of many sorts ; a little piece of it polished , assords fine yellow , red , black , and white Veins . The Palace of the Count de Draun , and that which Count Rothal hath lately built and nobly furnished , are very considerable ; with many others .

There are also many fair Churches , rich Convents , and Conventual Churches ; as that of the Carmelites , of the Franciscans , of the Beredictines , of St. Nicholas ; In this Church I could not but take notice of the late Sepulchral Monuments of Count Strozzi and Cardinal Harach . The Dominican Convent is very fair . The Augustines have a large Church , in the middle whereof they have built a Chappel after the manner of the Holy House at Loretto ; upon the top of which hang the Colours taken from the Turks and Tartars , many of which Ensigns are not square like ours , but made Escucheon-wise , some filled with Circles , wherein are expressed half Moons . The Jesuites Colleges are large , who seldom fail of noble Convents , especially in places where they have so good footing as in this . The Front of one of their Colleges opens into a fair Piazza , in the middle whereof stands a large and high composite Column of Copper upon a Pedestal of white stone , with four Angels with Escucheons , and on the top the blessed Virgin ; Inscriptions also , in which the Emperor dedicates Austria unto her Patronage and Tuition .

A noble copper Columne Standing before the Iesuites College in Dienna

Iohn Oliuer Fecit

I could not but observe the Scotch Church and Cloister , which gave also the name unto the Scotch Gate of the City , because I somewhat wondred how the Scots in old time should be so considerable in this place ; but I found by Information , and the Account of Lazius and Matthaeus Merian in High-dutch , that this Convent was in former times a great Receptacle for the Scots in their long Pilgrimage unto Jerusalem , founded and endowed by Duke Henry the First , in memory of St. Gregory : and it may seem less strange that the Scots should have a Convent here , and be numerous in these parts in former Ages , if we consider that St. Colman , one of the Saints of the greatest Veneration in this Country , was a Scotchman , and said to be of the Royal Blood of Scotland , who , in his passage to Jerusalem was murdered by the Baurs or Country people at Stockerau , four German miles from Vienna , and hanged on a Tree , where , as the Story goes , his Body remained uncorrupted for a year and a half , and divers Miracles being affirmed of it , it was taken down , and honourably interred near Stockerau ; but by Meginhard Bishop of Aichstadt it was translated unto Melk , and afterwards sent into Hungary , and his Head kept a long time at Stullweissenburg , or Alba Regalis , according to the Account which is here given of this Saint .

The Church of St. Peter is also considerable , not for its Splendor but Antiquity , as being accounted the oldest in the City , standing in a place where in old time there stood an Altar in honour of Domitian , called Ara Flaviana . In this Church lies the Body of that famous and learned Person Wolfgangus Lazius , with this Epitaph or Inscription :

Magnisico Nobili Clarissimo atque summâ eruditione ornatissimo viro Domino Wolfgango Latzio Vien . Philosophiae atque Medicinae Doctori & Professori Primario , Celeberrimi Archigymnasii Viennensis Rectori & Superintendenti Caesareo , & ejusdem Sacrae Caesareae Majest. Ferdinandi Sanctissimae memoriae Consiliario & Historico Peritissimo defuncto Anno Domini M D LXXXVI .

In the Church of the Capucines Convent , are interred the Emperor Matthias and his Empress , and the Empress Maria , wife to Ferdinand the Third , who out of their Devotion and Humility , chose to be buried in a Church of this poor Order . And the Capucines not admitting of Magnificent Monuments in their Churches , as in the Churches of other Orders , no Tombs are erected worthy so great an Emperor , and such Empresses .

But the Cathedral Church of St. Stephen , contains divers Monuments of many Princes and Great Persons , and is a large stately Building , but somewhat dark by reason of the thick painted Glass : not covered with Lead , but with Tiles of wood , which is the only blemish thereof , yet makes a good show . The Steeple and Spire are very remarkable , as being high , large , strong , and handsome . On the top or Weather-cock-place of the Spire stands a Cross under a Star and half Moon , according to the Figure I have elsewhere set down , which the People think to be of Gold , or at least very well gilded : and in the time of Thunder and Lightning it looked pale and whitish .

They have this Account how these came first to be set up in this place : That when Solyman the Magnificent besieged Vienna , perceiving the Forces in the City to be obstinate , he had an intent to batter down the Steeple about their ears : But some of the Bassa's and great Commanders , advertising him how unprofitable a business it would prove , and withal when he took the City , what an honour it would be unto him to have such a Noble Pyramid in his Dominions : He sent word into the Town , That he was willing to spare the Steople , upon condition that they would set up the half Moon and Star ( the Turkish Arms ) upon the top thereof . They returned Answer that they would , if he would send the same unto them ; which he did , and they placed it where it stands .

This Spire hath the largest Crockets I have observed in any , they being above a yard long , and adorned with foliage work . The Spire of Landshute in Bavaria , is accounted the highest in Germany ; that of Strasburg , the neatest and fairest ; and this of Vienna the largest and strongest . And therefore it is no wonder , that when the Ambassadors of Bosna formerly came unto Vienna , they so often viewed and admired this Fabrick , and plainly said , That all the mony in their Country was not sufficient to have built it .

This Steeple is accounted about four hundred sixty and five foot high , being about half way up three hundred and thirty eight steps . Besides other Hills , I could see Haimburger Hill within two miles of Presburg , and a great part of Austria , which the long Course of the Danube rendred very pleasant and delightful into the eye . In the Chamber or Room from whence I had this prospect , there is a Clock , whose Case being of wood , was in part burnt down by Lightning , and therefore there is water always kept in this place to extinguish the fire , and a man continually watches in the place where the Bells hang. There is also an Instrument of wood , or wooden Bells or Hammers , which they make use of from Good-Friday till Easter-sunday , all the time that our Saviour was in the Grave , during which time they permit no Bells to ring .

The Cathedrall Church of St. Stephen in Vienna

〈◊〉 Oliuer : Fecit .

At one of the doors of the Church there is a stone placed in the wall , which is generally conceived to be one of the stones wherewith St. Stephen was stoned . It seemed to me some kind of pebble , and is worn and polished by the hands of the people , who when they enter at that door , do touch it with their fingers . I was also shewed one of the stones which killed St. Stephen at St. Sernine , or St. Saturnine's Church in Tholouse in France , which is a Church abounding with Relique-Rareties , and where they also think they have the Bodies of seven of the Apostles , of St. George , of our King St. Edmund , and of forty Saints .

In this Church of St. Stephen , besides many Monuments of great Princes and famous Persons , divers learned men have Sepulchral Inscriptions ; as Johannes Faber , Bishop of Vienna ; Johannes Cuspinianus , and Sebastianus Tengnagelius , formerly Library-keeper , Historiographer , and Councellor to the Emperour , an extraordinary learned man , and skilful in fifteen Languages , as the Inscription delivers ; as Hebrew , Syriack , Chaldee , Persian , Arabick , Turkish , Aethiopick , Greek , Latin , Italian , French , Spanish , German , Belgick , and English .

The University of Vienna is also remarkable , if we consider the Antiquity thereof , the number of Scholars their course of Studies , their accommodations , privileges and advancements . This is said to have been begun by Albertus the Third , above three hundred years past ; and their Rules , Orders , and Statutes to have been borrowed from the University of Paris , and the Students were distinguished into four Divisions or Nations ; who , besides the General , have their particular Rules and Officers , and were comprehended under the Classis of Austrians , Nations of the Rhine , Hungarians , and Saxons .

In the Austrian Division were contained the Friulians , all of the Diocese of Trent , all Italy , with the other Provinces beyond the Mountains .

In the Classis of the Rhine were comprehended Suevians , Alsatians , Franconians , Hassians ; also all the Provinces to the South-west , as France , Spain , Navarre , Holland , Brabant .

In the third Classis , or Natio Hungarioe , were contained Hungarians , Bohemians , Polonians , Moravians , Sclavonians , all that speak the Sclavonian Tongue , and also Germans .

To the Classis or Natio Saxonum , were reduced Saxons , Westphalians , Frislanders , Turingians , Misnians , Brandenburgers , Prussians , Livonians , Lusatians , Pomeranians , with the Vltramarine Kingdoms of England , Scotland , Ireland , Sweden , Norway , and Denmark .

These Divisions take up all the Nations of Europe ; and indeed there are Students here of many Nations : and upon Contentions and Differences the several Classes will hold unto their own , and take parts , and bandy against each other , but will all unite and hold together in differences with Towns-men or Jews , which happen sometimes unto an high degree .

They follow here the old beaten way of Knowledge : and I met with few who had any good insight in new Philosophy ; but there are many good Philologers , and are well versed in Languages , History and Antiquity : and there are many Learned Men either educated here , or come from other parts . Some who had taken notice of the Royal Society in London , were very inquisitive after it ; and when I had satisfied them in all particulars , were very much pleased therewith . If they should fall into the way of Experimental Philosophy , being very industrious , 't is very probable they may do much therein , and they were sure to have the countenance of the Emperor . I found them also much affected with the English Society in other parts of Germany . At the University of Altorff I was much enquired of concerning it : and a Magistrate of Nurnburg , who had got a Tilescope from London , invited me to his House , to practice the way of using it . Der Herr von Aldershelme of Leipsick , a Person of great Curiosity , was very inquisitive after the same Society . And of late years the Curiosi of Germany have held Learned Conventions and Correspondence , and printed their Observations at Leipsick . And since my Return into England , I have been sollicited from Cassovia in Vpper Hungary , to send the Transactions into those Parts .

During my stay at Vienna , I went unto a publick Anatomy of a Woman that was beheaded : the Lecture lasted so long , that the Body was Nineteen days unburied . It was performed by a Learned Physician , Dr. Wolfjtregel , who read in Latin to the satisfaction of all persons . What I most particularly observed therein was this , The Pyramidal Muscles very plain and large ; the Vterus larger than is usually observed ; the Cartilago Ensiformis double ; the Lungs very black ; the Eye was very well shown ; he produced an artificial Eye of Ivory , and another large one of Pastbeard and Paper , contrived and made by himself ; the Muscles of the Pharynx , Larynx , Os Hyoides , and the Tongue , after their dissection , he reduced very handsomly into their proper places again to shew their natural situation and position . The Anatomy-Theatre was of capacity to receive above an hundred persons ; but of Anatomy-Theatres , until of late , there have been few in Germany , or none . And when I was in the Anatomy-School at Altorff , near Nurenburg , that learned civil Professor , Dr. Mauritius Hoffmannus , told me that the same was the First in Germany .

Paulus de Sorbait , Prime Professor , Physician unto Eleonora the Empress Dowager , and Knight of Hungary , was the Rector Magnificus . Zwelfer , who writ Animadversions upon the Dispensatory of Ausburg , was in great repute in Vienna , and had built for himself a Noble House in the City , but he died some time before my coming thither .

In fine , the University is noble , their Advancements considerable , their Privileges great , and they have the power of life and death , from Ancient and later Concessions of their Dukes and Emperors .

But the greatest lustre unto Vienna is the Residence of the present Emperor Leopoldus ; he was born in the year 1638. he was Son unto the Emperor Ferdinand the Third ; he was baptized by the Names of ●●●opoldus , Ignatius , Franciscus , Balthazar , Josephus , Felicianus . His lest Brother Ferdinand , King of the Romans , died of the Small Pox his Fathers time . His Brother Carolus Josephus , Master of the ●uto●ick Order , dyed 1662. He married Margareta Infanta of Spain , ●ughter unto King Philip the Fourth , whose Children died Infants ; vertuous , affable , grave and worthy Prince , and seemed to me to ●e very happily here , in the love and honour of his People , Soul●iers , and Clergy .

His Person is grave and graceful ; he hath the Austrian Lip remarkably , his Chin long , which is taken for a Good Physiognomical mark , and a sign of a constant , placid , and little troubled mind . He is conceived to carry in his Face the lineaments of four of his Predecessours , that is of Rudolphus the First , of Ma●●imilian the First , of Charles the Fifth , and Ferdinand the First . He was very affectionate unto his Empress , who , though but young , was a modest , grave Princess , had a good aspect , was zealous in her Religion , and an Enemy unto the Jews . He shewed also great respect and observance unto the Empress Dowager Elconora , who was a sober and prudent Princess , well skilled in all kind of curious Works , and delighted sometimes to shoot at Deer from a Stand , or at other Game , out of her Coach . He was also very loving unto his Sisters , beautiful and good Princesses ; whereof one , the eldest , was since married unto that Noble Prince Michael Wisnowitzski , King of Poland . And afterwards to Charles Duke of Lorain .

He speaks four Languages , German , Italian , Spanish , and Latin . He is a great Countenancer of Learned Men , and delights to read , and when occasion permits , will pass some hours at it . The worthy Petrus Lambecius , his Library Keeper , and who is in great esteem with him , will usually find out some Books for him which he conceives may be acceptable . While I was there he recommended a Translation of Religio Medici unto him , wherewith the Emperor was exceedingly pleased , and spake very much of it unto Lambecius , insomuch that Lambecius asked me whether I knew the Author , he being of my own name , and whether ●he were living : And when he understood my near Relation to him , he became more kind and courteous than ever , and desired me to send him that Book in the Original English , which he would put into the Emperors Library : and presented me with a neat little Latin Book , called Princeps in Compendio , written by the Emperors Father , Ferdinandus the Third .

He is also skilful in Musick , composes well , and delighted much in it , both at his Palace and the Church , which makes so many Musicians in Vienna ; for no place abounds more with them ; and in the Evening we seldom sailed of Musick in the Streets , and at our Windows : And the Emperors delight herein makes the Church-men take the greater care to set off their Church-Musick , for he goes often to Church , and not to one , but divers , especially the best Conventual Churches : and in his own Chappel some of his own Compositions are often play'd . He hath also excellent Musick in his Palace , both Vocal and Instrumental ; and his private Chappel is well served , where besides the excellent Musick , there are always eight or ten Counts , Pages to the Emperor , who serve at the Altar with white wax Torches in their hands ; and after the manner of the Italian Princes , divers Eunuchs to sing .

For his Recreations abroad , he delights much in Hunting , especially of the wild Boar in due seasons ; I have known him bring home six Boars in a morning . Some stout persons , particularly count Nicholas Serini , would encounter a wild Boar alone , but at last he unfortunately perished by one , which hath made others more wary since ; and therefore when the Boar is at a Bay , the Huntsmen so stand about him , that the Emperor , or other great persons , may more safely make use of their Boar-spears upon him .

Surely there are great numbers of them about the Country , for they are no unusual or extraordinary Dish in the City , though of a delicious and pleasing taste . They feed upon Acorns , Beech-mast , and Chesnuts , upon the spring or sprout of Broom , Juniper , and Shrubs , and upon the roots of Fern , and will range into Corn-fields , and come out of Forests into Vineyards . The Huntsmen are notably versed and skilful in that Game ; for though they see it not , they will distinguish a wild from a common Swine , and guess whether that which they hunt be Male or Female , old or young , large or small ; fat or lean ; and this they chiefly conjecture from their tread or foot , and the casting their hindfeet out of the track of their forefeet .

The Emperor being so good a Huntsman , it is the less wonder that he is esteemed a good Horseman . Certain it is , that he hath a very noble Stable of Horses , procured from all parts , Turk sh , Tartarian , Polonian , Transylvanian , Saxon , Bohemian , Hungarian , Naples , &c. and they are well managed ; and they ride them to the satisfaction of the Beholders .

Having seen the Arsenal at Venice , the Stores at Chatham , and the Naval Provisions at Amsterdam , I am not like to admire any other , especially so far from the Sea , and looked for nothing of that nature in this place Notwithstanding I found an Arsenal , and place for Naval Vessels to be set out upon occasion , and some thereof were employed in the last Turkish war , when they attempted to destroy the Bridge of Boats which the Turks had made over the Danube , a little above Gran and Barchan . They are built somewhat like Galleys , carry great Guns , and a good number of Souldiers , and will make a fight upon the broad deep stream of the Danube , and may be handsomly brought into the Town behind one of the Bastions , when the River is high : and hereof there are some at Rab and Komora as I have declared elsewhere .

The Emperor hath many Counsellors , great Souldiers and Courtiers about him ; among which these seemed of greatest Note .

Eusebius Wenceslaus Duke de Sagan , Prince Lob●owitz , Prime Counsellor , Hoff-meister , of the Order of the Golden Fleece , a person of a grave and sober Aspect , somewhat blunt in conversation , but of a generous temper , and free from all covetousness , who spent his Revenues nobly , and unto his great reputation : He was chief favorite unto the Emperor ; and though some had no great opinion of his Abilities , yet he was the first that discovered the last Hungarian defection and revolt , whereby those Noble Persons , Count Peter Serini and Nadasti ( whom I saw at Vienna ) were brought unto their ends .

Henricus Gulielmus , Count of Stahrenberg , Ober-hoff-Mareschal , or Lord Marshal of the Court.

Johannes Maximilianus , Count of Lamburg , Oberst Kammer-Herr , or Chief of the Chamber , a Person of great esteem . The Gentlemen of the Bed-chamber are numerous , and many are in extraordinary ; there may be an hundred of them , all Barons and Counts . Every one of them wears a Golden Key before his Brest ; and the Grooms of the bed-chamber wear one of Steel : Two of each attend every Night .

Gundakerus , Count Dietrichstein , Ober-Stall-Meister , or Chief Master of the Horse .

These are the Chief . These following are also considerable .

Count Sinzendorff , Oberste-Jag-Meister , Grand Veneur , or Hunts-Master , a Person in good favour with the Emperor , who very much delights in Hunting , as have most of his Predecessors .

The Count of Aversberg , Oberst-Falken-Meister , Chief Falconer , who hath twelve Falconers under him .

The Count of Paar , Chief Master of the Emperors Post .

Leopoldus Wilhelmus , Marquis of Baden , Captain of an hundred Hartshires , who are the Horse-guard , and ride with Pistols and Carab●nes out of the City ; but within Vienna they carry Launces and Javelins with broad points .

of the Foot-guard , of a good Personage , and well esteemed of by the Emperour .

Sixty , or more , Pages ; for the number , is uncertain , and not limited ; most of them Counts and Barons .

Raymundus , Count de Montecuculi , was his General ▪ President of the Council of War , Governour of Rab and the Confines about it , and of the Order of the Golden Fleece ; a tall Person , somewhat lean , but hath a spirit in his look : he is one of the oldest Commanders in Europe , and performed good Service in Poland , Hungary , Germany in many places , and is esteemed a prudent , valiant , and successful Commander .

The Count de Souches was also a Commander of great Fame , and in high esteem with the Emperor . He was a Native of Rochelle : he first served the Swedes in the German wars , and was a Colonel , but upon some disgust he forsook the Swedes , and served the Imperialists , and was made Governor of Brin , the second Town in Moravia . After the taking of Crembs in Austria ▪ General Torstenson , besieged Brin , and sent word unto the Governor de Souches , That if he refused to deliver up the Town , he would give him no quarter . Who answered him , That he would not ask any , and also give none : and defended the place with such resolution , that after many Assaults ▪ Underminings , and Attempts by Granado's , Torstenson was forced to rise , after a Siege of four months , which was so advantageous unto Austria and the Imperial affairs , that the Emperor took especial notice of him , made him a Buron , and of his Privy-Council . He commanded also all the Forces in Vienna , and did notable Service in the last Turkish wars . He took the City of Nitra , or Nitria , not far from Strigonium or Gran ; and took and slew six thousand Turks which were sent by the Vizier of Bada against him : a worthy Person , and of a good Aspect . Count Souches the younger , his Son , an Heroick Commander , is Governor , of the strong fortified place Leopoldstadt by Freistadt , a Person of great Civility , unto whom I was much obliged .

Count Lesly , Nephew unto Count Lesly , who was sent Ambassador to Constantinople to the Sultan from the Emperor , is a Commander worthy of that esteem he hath with the Emperor ; a Person of great Courage , Civility and Humanity , which I must ever acknowledge .

The Courts of the Empress , and of the Empress Dowager , are filled with Persons of Note ; and there are a great number of Souldiers in this place of great Fame , as the Marquiss Pio , Spork , Cop● , and many more . Many of the Clergy and Men of Learning , are in good esteem with the Emperor ; but the Jesuites Moelner and B●ccabella , are his near Favorites . Many Strangers both Souldiers and Scholars , have built their Fortunes here . And surely Strangers of parts and industry , so they be of the Roman Church , are not like to raise their Fortunes any where better than in these parts .

Though the Emperor goes not to war in Person , yet hath he been successful in his wars , especially in the Battel with the Turks at St. Godart , where the business was handsomly and actively managed , to set upon the body of the Turks , which had passed the River Rab , before the whole Forces of the Vizier could come over , to the great slaughter of the Janisaries and Turks , who fought stoutly , and were first put to a Retreat by the French Cavalry . For at first the Turks seemed to prevail , and had slain a great part of two Regiments of the Auxiliari●s which came out of Franconia , and after their custom , had cut off their Heads .

But his later wars have been still more fortunate , wherein he hath not only relieved Vienna , and taken divers cities from the Turks ; but remains still Master of the Field in Hungary . Among the many notable things in Vienna , the Imperial Library is very remarkable . He who hath seen the Bodleian Library at Oxford , and the Vatican , at Rome , would be much surprized to find such a notable one here , as may compare with them ; especially upon the extreme Borders of the Learned part of Europe .

The number and nobleness of the Books doth much exceed the receptacle or place which contains them , as making no fair shew at the entrance , and somewhat wanting light . But as for the number and value of the Books , they are of opinion here that it yields unto none , but rather excels any other Library in Europe . There was a place designed for the building of a fit receptacle for them ; but , I know not how , a Theatre for Comedies is now built in that place .

It is divided into eight Chambers or Rooms , which are so well filled , that many Books are fain to lie upon the Floor ; and the Shelves stand so close , that there is but just room to pass between them . The Manuscripts , stand distinct from the printed Books , according to their Languages , being divided into six Classes , Theological , Juridical , Medical , Philosophical , Historical , Philological . There can scarce be a more admirable Collection than the Manuscripts in part of the first Chamber , of Hebrew , Syriack , Arabick , Turkish , Armenian , Aethiopick , and Chinese Books .

It was begun , at least the Books began to be placed in this receptacle , by Maximilian the First , but hath been much encreased by succeeding Emperors , most of them , since Rodolphus the First , being much addicted unto Learning , there having been large accessions from many noble Libraries , and most upon the cost of the Emperors . The choicest Books in the famous Library of Buda , of King Matthias Corvinus , Son unto Huniades , are now in it . The notable Library of Wolfgangus Lazius , who was Library-Keeper , was brought hither , and Three thousand Books of Johannes Sambucus are now in this Repository .

Augerius Bushequius , sometime Library-Keeper hereof , added much unto it ; and in his two Turkish Embassies procured a great number of noble Greek Manuscripts at Constantinople , which are inscribed with his own hand , Aug. de Busbeck . emit Constantinopoli . A great many were added from the Library of the Learned Johannes Cuspinianus , Library Keeper , and Councellor unto the Emperor . The notable Libraries and Mathematical Instruments of Tycho Brahe , Kepler , and Gassendus , were purchased for it . But the largest accession was made by the noble Library of Count Fugger , which consisting of sixteen thousand Volumes , was purchased by Ferdinand the Third . Many were brought , some few years past , from the Ambrasian Library by Inspruck , by the Learned Petrus Lambecius , Library-keeper , Historiographer , and Councellor unto the present Emperor ; who hath also an excellent Library which is like to be added unto the Imperial . He then reckoned the Volumes in this great Library to amount at least to Fourscore thousand ; and by this time that number may be increased , for he adds some yearly . And the number might almost be endless , if they would make use of their privilege , for the Emperor ● at h a right to have two Books of all that are printed in Germany .

They have also a great advantage at Vienna to acquire good Manuscripts from the Turkish Dominions , for the Emperor is obliged to have a Resident with the Grand Sei●nior wheresoever he moves or orders him to be ; even at the last fight of St. Godart , the Emperor 's Resident was in the Turkish Camp . And when I was at Larissa , in Thessaly , the Resident Signor de Casa Nova , was inquisitive after Books to be found among the Greeks in Monasteries and other places . And this Emperor , like his Father , will spare no cost toward such Acquiries .

By the especial favour of my noble Friend Lambecius , I went many times into this Library , and he was so courteous as to let me have what Books I desired unto my private Lodging : He would shew me divers Books upon what Subject I required , and offered me a sight of what Books he thought rare and estimable ; and amongst others I could not but take notice of these following :

A Letter of the present Emperor of China , in the Chinese and Tartarian Languages , unto the present Emperor of Germany , weaved in a very fine Roll.

Another old Roll written in unknown Letters , yet a little resembling the Greek .

A Book in the Runick Language .

A very fair Manuscript of Ptolomy , with the Maps drawn in Colours .

The oldest Manuscript and true Exemplar of Livy , in large Letters , without distinction of Words or Sentences , very uneasie to be read , a thousand years old , and brought , not many years since , from the Library near Inspruck .

An old fair Greek Manuscript of Dioscorides , written eleven hundred years since in very large Letters , without distance of Words , or Accents , wherein all the Plants are lively painted ; also the Pictures of Dioscorides , Galen , Pamphilus , Cratevas , and other ancient Physicians , bought of a Jew at Constantinople for an hundred Ducats , by Busbequius .

A Book of Geometrical , Propositions demonstrated in the China Language .

Another fair one in the China Tongue with Pictures .

A noble old Greek Manuscript in great uncial Letters , without stops , points , or distance of words .

An ancient Greek Manuscript of the Book of Genesis , in large Letters , without distance or accents , thirteen hundred years ago ; wherein are Forty eight Pictures or Draughts in Miniature or Water-colours , much conducing to the knowledge of ancient Habits , the manner of Feasting , postures at Meals , waiting of Servants and Musical Instruments : Wherein I could not but take notice of the Golden Spot upon Joseph's breast ; and the manner of the Execution of Pharaoh's Baker , his head being put through a forked piece of wood , and his Hands tyed behind him .

A fair Book of Albert Durer , wherein are many fine Paintings in Miniature or Limning ; as also a Sphere , and within it a Globe carved and painted by him .

A fair Book of Michael Angelo , wherein , besides many rare things in Architecture , are all the paintings and designs of the Belvedere , in little .

A fair Alcoran in Arabick , interlined with the Turkish to explain it .

The Bible in the Coptick , and Persian Languages .

Luther's own Bible , marked with his own Hand , and interlined by him with Notes in many places .

A fair Greek Manuscript of the New Testament , fifteen hundred years ago written in Letters of Gold upon Purple .

There was also a Magical Glass , obtained by the Emperor Rodolphus , whereby to see Appariti●ns , and converse with Spirits ; which some conceive to be the same , or of the like nature with that used by Kelly .

Of ancient Greek , Roman , and Gothick Medals and Coyns , in Gold , Silver , and Copper , to the number of sixteen thousand . Among the Copper Coyns they pretend to have two of the Emperor Marcus Otho .

I let fall some Drops into this Ocean , adding some Coyns , Intaglia's , and Inscriptions not to be found in that large work of Gruterus ; which having found in the Emperors further Dominions and Turkish parts , long out of his possession , where there had been no great enquiry after them ; were shewed unto his Imperial Majesty by Petrus Lambecius , and so well accepted by him , that he said I might have the use of what Books I desired : and at my return into England he gave me a formal Pass in Latin for my safe Travel , and that my Trunks or Goods might not be searched , which takes off a great deal of trouble in passing so many Principalites and free Cities , Commanding all in his own Dominions , and Requesting all Princes in Germany to favour me , and permit me to pass freely without molestation : It was thus Subscribed ,

Leopoldus Leopoldus Gulielmus Comes in Kinigseggs . Ad mandatum Sacr. Caes . Majestatis proprium Beüer .

In the first Cupboard or Case were many noble Vessels , turned and shaped out of Ivory , a Cup turned by the Emperors own Hand ; another turned by Ferdinandus the Third . Gallant Cups of Amber ; Spoons and Vessels of Mother of Pearl : many noble works in Coral ; a fine Galley in Ivory , and Cups made out of Rhinocerot's horn .

in the second ,

An Elephant of Ivory with a Castle , upon his back , and over the Castle a Ship , with much other fine work in the same piece . Two fair Pillars of Ivory ; good Basso Relievo in Ivory ; a fair Cranium or Deaths-head , and much other variety of Ivory work . A Picture in Oyl of Ganymede , by Corregio .

In the third ,

A fine Picture , of an old Man's head in Oyl by Albert Durer : great Variety of Watches and Clock-work in Silver : a fine Centaur in Silver which is a curious Watch.

In the fourth ,

More Watches and Clock-work ; a gallant Ship of Silver , a Triumphal Chariot , a Turk riding and attended , a Globe and a Sphere in Silver , a curious Landskip in Oyl by Corregio , a Cupid by the same hand , with a fine Copy of it .

In the fifth ,

A curious Filegrane Handkerchief , and two fair Filegrane Plates brought out of Spain by the Empress Margarita ; an Indian Basket of an Indian sort of Filegrane mixed with Birds ; a Bason of Agate finely wrought with silver Craw-fishes in it .

In the sixth ,

Is contained a strange Collection of Intaglie and old Roman Stones , admirable for their work and largeness . A large Agate whereon is wrought the History of that Victory which Augustus Caesar obtained over the Dalmatians and Pannonians , in the ninth year of our Lord ; about five inches long , and four broad , highly valued : An exact Cut of which is here inserted .

An Onyx with the Head of Alexander , and Olympia .

A Shell with a Battel carved in it .

A Chain with the Heads of all the Austrian Family .

A Dog in a very large Sardonyx .

In the seventh ,

A noble Head in Oyl by Hans van Ach. The Head of Maximilianus the First in Plaister , with a lock of his own Hair . Mother of Pearl in many shapes . Fine Baskets , and the twelve Caesar's Heads .

In the eight , most of Crystal ,

A noble Vessel about a yard and half high , made out of one piece of Crystal . An Vrne . The Head of the Empress . A fair Dragon . The Head of the Queen-Mother of France . A Chrystal in which the Picture of our Saviour may be seen thrice one way , and once another way .

The ninth of Crystal also ,

A noble Ewer . A fair Vessel of very clear Crystal , lately bought . A large Head . Fair Crosses , and other Varieties .

The tenth of Gold and precious Stones .

Five Crowns . The Imperial Crown ; rich in Jewels , and hath a very large blew Saphir on the top . A Model of that Crown with which the Emperor is crowned , much richer than the Original . A Paragon Diamond of seventeen Carats and a half . Very large Rubies . A Scepter of Vnicorns horn , set with rich Stones . A Locket of the greatest Diamonds . A magnificent Scepter , Globe , Cross , and Crown , which cost seven hundred thousand Crowns . An Opal bigger than my hand , as it was taken out of the Mine ; and many other fair Opals . A very large Emerald . A Ship in an Emerald . A fair Ring-Dial .

The eleventh of Gold .

A noble Bason used at the Baptism of the Austrian Family . Scepters , Scimeters , Knives , and other rich Presents from the Turk . Three rich Dog-Collar's , sent by King Charles the Second with three Dogs , out of England , with this Mark on them OCOC . A large lump of pure Gold , as it was taken out of the Mine , as broad as my hand . A fair piece of Gold Ore , wherein the pure Gold shooteth upon a white Stone . Divers great Basons of Gold and Coral .

In the twelfth .

Vessels of Jaspis , Agate , Lapis Lazuli , Oriental Granates . Cups of Onyx , Sardonyx . Large ones of Lapis Nephriticus : and a great one of an Amethyst .

In the thirteenth ,

A large high Vessel of Bohemian Topaz . Flowers well made out of precious Stones . A Cup of an Hungarian Diamond . A piece of Ambergriece as big as a mans head , sent from the Grand Seignior . A noble Jaspis-stone . A large Stone of Agate on the outside , and a bed of large Amethysts naturally in it in the middle , which is an extraordinary and pleasant Rarely .

In the rest ,

Noble Chrysolites , Jacynths , Crien'al Granates , Beryls or Aquamarines . The notable rich Smaragdus , or Emerald , or a Cup , out of that Stone . Three great ones having been already taken out , valued at three hundred thousand Crowns . A Picture in Oyl of the little King Vladisllaus Lokeli , King of Hun ary . Ten rich Turkish Saddles , with Furnitures for Horses , set with fair Turcois Stones . A great number of Gold Vessels and fine Figures in Coral Turkish Knives , Gauntlets , and Table men of Gold . Delicate Pictures in Wax . Very large Bezoar stones . Indian gold , Cards and Counters . A vast Medal of the Emperor's Arms , weighing two thousand two hundred Ducats , or a thousand pounds English . A Cup out of Solomon's Temple . Fair Amber . Rare Inlaying , in Wood. Bacchus and other Statua's out of a very high Rhinocerot's horn . A fine Picture of the Mountain Vesuvius . Jewels with black Feathers given by the Turkish Ambassadors . A notable Picture of a lean Skeleton Priest , who lived so four years . A notable Cabinet-clock with large motions . A fair Bason and Ewer of carved Ivory . King Philip the Second of Spain in Diamond Armour , set in Gold . A neat Picture of an old Man courting a young Woman , with this Motto :

Arctum Annulum nè gestáto .

A Knife swallowed by a Peasant near Prague , which was nine months in his Stomach , and safely cut out 1602. The like happened also to a person in Prussia , of which Daniel Becker hath written a peculiar Tract under this Title , De Cultrivoro Prussiaco . A fair Crucifix of Pearl . Indian Pictures made of Feathers . The King of Sweden , Gustavus Adolphus's Buff-coat in which he was killed at the Battel of Tilly's Sword . An Angel in Ivory with Hair and Clothes of Filegrane of Gold , A neat Crucifix of Wood by Albertus Durer . Two very large Looking-glasses with the Frames of Silver . All the Gospels written and painted . Many brave Statua's and Pictures every where . The Haed of Charles the first King of England , in white Marble . A Ped stal of Amber , over which a Cross . The Head of St. Valerius Bishop of Triers . The Picture of St. Catherine of Sienna , drawn by Sigismund King of Poland . A Picture of the Emperor as he gives Audience , to be looked upon through a little round hole . A neat Table of Inlaid Stone made by the present Empress Dowager Eleonora . A Nail of our Saviour's Cross almost a foot long ; our Saviour's Blood ; and two Thorns of his Crown , the one whiter than the other . Priests Garments covered all over with large Pearl . The great and high esteemed Agate Dish , between three and four spans . Diameter with XRISOS naturally in it . Unto which one applied that of St. Luke , Dico vobis quia si hi tacuerint , lapides clamabunt .

Unto which magnificent Rareties there is one more added , the noble Chain of Pearl of eight yards long taken from the Graff Teokeoly in the late Hungarian war , as I understand since my Return .

I went unto divers noted Places about Vienna : I walked unto the Hill of Vienna , two English miles distant from the Town , going up all the way by an easie Ascent ; from whence I had a prospect of the City , and the Compagnia about it , together with the high Mountains in Steirmark covered with Snow : and in my return saw the Palace of the Empress Dowager without the Town , called la Favorita , and passed by the Convent of the Paulini .

About two English miles Eastward from Vienna , there is a very noble Garden-place belonging to the Emperor , built by Rodolphu● the Second , which hath been formerly well furnished , and provided with Plants , but now seems to be neglected , and somewhat ruinous . It consists of an inward and an outward square Garden : The inward is two hundred ordinary paces square , about the same bigness with the Place Royal at Paris : It hath a Portico or Cloyster , supported by Forty Pillars of white Stone on each side , and is covered with Copper ; as are also the Pavilions which the common people think to be Gold . Besides this , there is an handsom row of Buildings well seated , called Néw-gabaú , in which at present are many wild Beasts kept . Lions and Tigres breed here , and have young ones . Some say this was the place of Solyman the Magnificent's Tent when he besieged Vienna . But it is rather the Figure of his Pavilion which was placed on the other side of the City .

There is also , about two or three miles from Vienna , a noted place of Devotion , called Arnols , much frequented , especially in Lent , divers carrying Crosses very heavy all the way upon their shoulders . There is here a little House built exactly after that of the Scpulchre at Jerusalem ; and also a handsom Copy of the Picture of our Saviour and the Virgin Mary , with their exact heights . That of our Saviour is about two yards high ; that of the blessed Virgin three or four fingers breadth lower : These are taken from the Original in St. John de Lateran at Rome . Hither the Empress desired to go one morning from her own Palace on Foot , out of Devotion , which she performed , though with a great deal of difficulty , she being not used to walk , and the way was dusty . The Emperor accompanied her and all the Court followed on foot , which made a handsome shew .

Nearer unto Vienna there is also a remarkable place for Devotion , called Itzing : and in the way from Vienna unto it , the twelve Stations of the Cross are marked out in imitation of what is observed near Jerusalem , in the Via Crucis , or Dolorosa , in our Saviour's proceeding from the City unto Mount Calvary ; the the Figures thereof are printed , and the several paces between every Station set down . The Emperor hath a handsom Park near Vienna , called the Brater , wherein I beheld the effects of the great Lightning and Thunder which happened three days before , upon many great Trees which were torn , split , or twisted . There is a House of Pleasure in it , where among other things , I could not but take notice of a Musical Instrument which I had not seen before , a Seat or Chestdrum ; it hath a Cord like that of a Sea-trumpet , but sounds like a Kettle-drum .

I went also unto Laxamburg , whither the Emperor often retires ; he hath a House in this place , but it is old , and not large . There is also a House of Pleasure in the Mote , into which there is no other passage but through a high Corridore . T●e Castle is commodiously seated for the Emperors recreation ; and there is an eight-square House in the Marsh , from which the Nobility and the Empress Dowager sometimes used to shoot , she being very expert therein . Over the Gate of the Emperors House hangs a great Rib and Jaw-bone , whereof I could get no better account , than they were the Rib and Jaw-bone of a heathen maid . They seemed to me to be Bones of an Elephant . But many things that are old or obscure , they call , in this Country , Heathen : as Roman Coyns , they call Heathen money . And the Peasants brought me , in a place which had been formerly an old Roman Station , part of the bit of a Bridle digged up , which they concluded to be a Heathen Key .

From hence I went unto Mannersdorff , seated not far from the River Leyta , where there is a natural h●t Bath , called the Wildebath ; it arises under a Church , the Church being built over the Spring-head . The water of it is but Luke-warm , and therefore when they desire it hotter , they boyl it , and so bathe in Tubs in a large room . From that Substance which sticks to the sides of the Coppers in the boyling of it , they judge it to be impregnated with Sulphur , Salt-peter , and Chalk . The water colours the stones , and makes them look , when wet , like fine Turquois●s . And the vapour of the Bath hanging upon the Moss on the sides , gives it an Amber or Gold colour . The ●hysicians of Vienna have given a good account concerning the use of these Baths in High-●utch . Not far from hence is a noted Quarry of Stone , out of which a great part of Vienna is built . The Stones are large and they cut , and square them at the Quarry .

From hence I proceeded to the Newsidler sea or Lake , so called from Newsidle , which is a Town seated upon the Northern part of it , consisting of one street and some back-houses , and a small , square , old Castle upon a Hill , from whence I had a good prospect over the Lake . It is about three German miles broad , and seven miles long . The fairest Lake in these parts affording plenty of Fish ; encompassed and thickly set about with small Towns and Villages ; and hath no River , at least not considerable , running into or out of it . A little way from the Gate of N●●sidle they dig out a black earth , out of which they make Salt-peter . In this Journey , not far from Himburg , we passed by a place called Rauckward , which , though it seems not high , looks over a great part of Austria , and as far as Brin , the second City of Moravia , a part also of the Kingdom of Bohemia , and a part of the Kingdom of Hun●ar●a . I went afterwards four English miles up the Stream of the Danube , to see a noted Quarry of Stone in a Hill called Altenburg . The beds , rows , or cases of the Stones lie not horizontally , but rather elevated Northward , about the height of the Angle forty , yet are not always so regularly placed , but rather follow the shape of the Hill , and according to that are differently situated . Here I also observed a Substance between a Clay and a stone called Leberstein , or Liverstone ; and upon many of these Stones I found the figures of Trees and Leaves , though not so deep or neat as upon the Stones by Florence ; yet very prettily marked , and often with broader Leaves , than I had elsewhere observed . I passed forward to Closter-Neubur● , a Town most of it belonging to that notable rich Monastery seated here , founded by St. Leopoldus Marquess of Austria , and since much enriched by succeeding Donations .

Matthaeus Merian hath a good cut of the Prospect of the Danube hereabouts , and in what manner it passes downwards between the two great Hills of Kalenberg and Bisnberg . Upon one Peak of Kalenbreg live divers Camaldulenses , of an Order the most severe of any , living most upon Roots and Herbs , in the manner of Hermites . Near their Cells they had paved the ground with those Stones I mentioned , which were naturally marked with the Shapes of Trees and Plants .

After an open Autumn there followed a sharp Winter at Vienna , in the months of December and January . The branches of the Danube were soon frozen over . The main Stream , by reason of its swift Current , held out longer , but was afterwards also frozen . Some have thought that this River is more apt to freez than others . And we read of Battels which have been fought upon this River frozen ; but I could not make any regular Observation thereof . This hard weather , the ground being covered with Snow , afforded handsom Recreations unto men , and some unto the Ladies , in running Courses in handsom Sleds and Devices upon the Snow . Their Sleds were well contrived in the shape of Griffins , Tigers , Swans , Scallop Shells , Dolphins , Peacocks , and the like Curiosities , cared , painted , and gilded . The Lady sits in one of these , richly habited in Velvet , lined with rich Furrs , set off with Lace and Jewels , in a Velvet Cap lined with Sables . The Sled is drawn by a Horse , dressed up with Feathers of all colours , and Bells hanging about him , a pair of Stags horns behind his head , Ribbons and other Ornaments : one or more Pages ride by on Horseback with Torches in their hands . And after this ●anner they perform their Course upon the frozen Snow about the streets of Vienna , in the night , with good speed one after another . A Gentleman sits behind the Lady and guides the Horse . But the Frost breaking up put an end to these Recreations . The Frost began and ended here the same day that it began and ended in England .

The Festivity of Christmas was observed much after the same Manner , Ceremonies , and Solemnities , as in Italy . On Christmas-day the Emperor dined publickly , attended with many Nobles and great Persons , and three remarkable low Dwarss . Upon St. Stephen's day he went to the Cathedral of St. Stephen , and went up to the Altar , kneeled , and kissed the Plate whereon the Hostia had lain . At the Epiphany or Twelfth-tide , the old custom of choosing King and Queen was observed at Court . Count Lesly happened to be King , the Emperor laid the Cloth , and the Empress filled out Wine , together with other old Customs , Fetched perhaps in part from ancienter times , Saturnalium diebus , mos Romanis , praebere servis convivium sic ut ipsi officia serv●rum obirent .

Before Christmas there was extraordinary mirth and jollity at the Court upon occasion of a Marriage : For Count Serau , Governor of Gratz in Styria , married a natural Daughter of Philip the Fourth , King of Spain , which was observed with many noble Solemnities and Braveries . And the Nobility and Ladies were so substantially splendid , that I was much surprized thereat .

This was followed by a Funeral Solemnity for the Count of Draun , who was Colonel of the Forces in Vienna , and who had one of the noblest Houses in the City ; his Corps was brought out of Italy , and interred in the Dominican Church , where he formerly built a very fair Altar ; there was raised for him a Castrum Doloris , handsomly contrived and set round with white Wax Torches and Candles .

While I was in Vien●a , the Empress Margarita was delivered of a Daughter , which was Christned by the name of Maria , Antonina , Josepha , Benedicta , Rosalia , Petronella , but she lived not many months . When the Empress came abroad , she brought the Child to the Augustines Church , where Cardinal Carlo Caraffa , the Pope's Nuncio , received it , blessed it , and laid it upon the Altar .

During my stay here , the Election was in readiness for a King of Poland , after the voluntary resignation of that Crown by King Casimir ; and Couriers often passed between that Country and this . There were Competitors the Czar of Muscovy's Son , the Duke of Newburg , and the Prince of Lorrain . The French moved actively for the Duke of Newburg , the Emperor for the Prince of Lorrain , who was then at Vi nna , in great favour with the Emperor , who greatly promoted his interest ; a Person of great esteem , and who if General Lub●mirski had been living , who was his intimate Friend , in all probability might have obtained the Crown ; and thereupon it was conceived that he should have married the Emperor's Sister . But the Poles made choice of one of their own Country , who was no Competitor , Michael Wisnowitski deceased , who also married the Sister of the Emperor .

When I was here , there were many Ambassadours of Note , D●n Balthasar de la Cueva , Marquiss of Malago● , and Brother to the Viceroy of Naples , was Ambassador for Spain . Cardinal Carlo Carassa was the Pope's Nuncio . The Venetia● Ambassador Extraordinary , sollicited for assistance for Candia , and he obtained the Regiment of Porcia under Marquis Pio. Count Souches the younger , who was Governor of Leop ldstadt , and many noble and valiant Souldiers were preparing for that Expedition . The Turks gave assurance of the Grand Seignior's intention to maintain the Peace inviolably ; and requested the Emperor not to assist the Venetians , or Transylvanians , nor to promote , but rather hinder , the Election of the Emperor of Muscovy's Son to the Crown of Poland . The Bishop of Beziers , sent by the King of France to the Election of the King of Poland , came not hither , but passed through Nurenburg , where I lodged at the same Inn : They were generally here against the French Interest , and so were a great part of the Polish Nobility . An Ambassador came also from the Cham of Tartary , to confirm a Peace , and afford mutual Assistance upon occasion . Cha Gagi A●a was the Ambassador , who brought a Present of the best Tartarian Horses , which are of high esteem for swiftness , hardiness , boldness in passing frozen Rivers , and taking and swimming over great Streams . He was dismissed with noble Presents of Plate . The Emperor presented the Cham of Tartary with a fair Silver Bason and Ewer , and a curious Watch ; and sent Presents unto the Chammine his Wife ; and also to his Sister and four Brothers . His Followers were stout men , of good stature , coarse Complexions , wearing long furr'd Vests and Calpacks , or furr'd Caps . Some of them had silver Rings with the same Signatures of the Turkish Seals . They took much Tabaco in very long Pipes . Their Tabaco is not in Rolls , but in Leaves , & dry . They went about wandring and gazing at most things , as Churches , Houses , Shops : And took much delight to be in the Fair , where they would take much notice of small trifles . Yet these are the men that make such sad Incursions into the Eastern parts of Europe , and carrying away so many thousands , sell them to the Turks , and so repair the defect of People in Turky . And now after the Consumption of men in Constantinople , and the Country about by the Plague , are like to be active in that Trade , hoping to find better Markets for their Plagiaries and Depredations .

There are divers Greeks , who trade to Vienna , and many live in the Town , among which I met with three considerable persons . One a grave Abbot , who was forced from his Convent by the Turk , upon suspicion that he corresponded with those of Candia . Another , who went by the name of Constantinus Catacuz●nos , and was of the Blood Royal of the Catacuzeni . The third was Jeremias a Greek Priest , who had travelled through Italy and France into England , and from thence through the Low-Countries and Germany to Vienna , and intended for Constantinople . He came into England to enquire after a young man who was in a Ship which was first taken by an Algerine , and afterwards by an English man of war in the Levant . He was very kindly used in England , and particularly at Cambridge . He did a great deal of honour at Vienna , unto the English Nation , declaring that they were the most civil , generous , and learned people he had met with in all his Travels , and that he no where found so many who could speak or understand Greek , or who gave him so good satisfaction in all parts of Knowledge : And as a testimony of his respect and gratitude , requested me to enclose a Greek Letter unto Dr. Piers●n , now Lord Bishop of Chesler , and Dr. Barrow Master of Trinity College in Cambridge .

Must men live here plentifully , there being abundance of all provision . They have great quantity of Corn , which upon Scarcity , by the help of the Danube , might be brought to them from remoter parts . The Country affords such plenty of wine , that they send a considerable quantity up the River . They have also rich wines out of Hungary and Italy , and such variety , that there are more than thirty several sorts of Wine to be sold in Vienna . They are not also without good Beer . Halsladt in Austria affords them Salt , where they make it by letting in water into the hollow parts of a Mountain , where it drinks in the Salt of the Earth , and is afterwards let out and boiled up . This affords great profit to the Emperor , and therefore the Hungarian Salt is not permitted to be brought higher than Presburg . They have also plenty of Sheep and Oxen ; but for Oxen at present they are also supplied from Hungary , nor only from the Countries in the Emperors Dominions , but from the Turkish parts , by permission of the Grand Seignior ; and they are brought hither by the Eastern Company of Vienna . They eat much wild Boar , whereof the Fat is delicious , like that of Vension with us . They want not Hares , Rabbets , Partridges , Pheasants . A Foul called Hasenhendal , or Gallina Corylorum , is much esteemed by them , which made me the more wonder to meet with some odd dishes at their Tables ; as Guiny-Pigs , divers sorts of Snails , and Tortoises .

But they have Dancing and Fencing often , and every Holy-day after dinner , the people flock to some Inns where there is Dancing in the inward Rooms , and Fencing and Playing of Prizes upon a Stage in the Yard ; and at the Windows , or from the Galleries , they behold the Fencers playing at several Weapons ; and commonly pass the rest of the day in delights and merry Company .

In Treason and high Crimes they cut off the right Hand of the Malefactor , and his Head immediately after . I saw a Woman beheaded sitting in a Chair , the Executioner striking off her Head with a Fore-blow , she behaved her self well , and was accompanied unto the Market place by the Confraternity of the Dead , who have a charitable care of such Persons , and are not of any Religious Order , but Lay-men ; among whom also in this place there are many Fraternities and Orders , as of the Holy Virgin , of the Holy Cross , and others . Another person also executed after the same manner ; as soon as his head fell to the ground , while the Body was in the Chair , a man run speedily with a Pot in his hand , and filling it with the Blood , yet spouting out of his Neck , he presently drank it off , and ran away ; and this he did as a Remedy against the Falling-Sickness . I have read of some who have approved the same Medicine ; and heard of others who have done the like in Germany . And Celsus takes notice , that in his time some Epileptical persons did drink the Blood of the Gladiatours . But many Physicians have , in all times , abominated that Medicine . Nor did I stay afterwards so long as to know the effect thereof , as to the intended cure . But most men looked upon it as of great uncertainty : and of all men the Jews , who suffer no Blood to come into their Lips , must most dislike it .

At Presburg they have a strange way of Execution , still used at Metz , and some other places , by a Maid , or Engine like a Maid finely dressed up with her hands before her . The Malefactor salutes her first , and then retires . But at his second salute she opens her hands and cuts his Heart in sunder .

Though the Winter was sharp , yet the advantage of Stoves and lying between two Feather-beds made it tolerable : For they use Stoves here as in other parts of Germany , where they lodge and eat in Stoves ; and great Persons have Stoves in the Church , or such as look into the Church . There are Stoves also in the publick Schools where Lectures are read . And this way of lying between two Feather-beds , with a neat laced sheet spread over , is more convenient in a cold Country , than most others they make use of . For in the common Inns in Germany they generally sleep upon Straw , and also in Hungary almost every where ; and more Easterly upon the ground , spreading a Carpet or Saddle-cloth under them : and more Northerly they content themselves with the Skins of Beasts , Bears , Elks , or the like ; upon which they sleep in the night . Those that sleep lowest are coolest in a Stove ; those that lie upon Tables , Benches , or higher , are more exposed to the heat . The Citizens of Vienna are well attired , and use Furs very much The Women wear a high Velvet Bonnet , lined or faced therewith . The Place seemed to be healthful ; but they speak much of the Colica Austriaca , as an Endemical and Local Disease , very hardly yielding unto good Medicines . They speak good German at the Court and in the City ; but the Common & Country people seemed to speak grumblingly , and besides their accent , have divers words different from other parts .

They have a Custom upon St. Nicholas-day to put some small Gift into the Childrens shooes ; among other things they put in Medals and Dollars made of paper and flour , gilded and silvered over , yet scarce worth a penny . They sell Trochies or Tablets in the markets , made of the pulp of the Fruit of Hip-briar , made sharp with Spirit of Sulphur , very refreshing . Some carry about them a Thunder-stone as a defence against Thunder : and they rub their Childrens Gums with a Wolf's tooth instead of Coral .

When I was at Venice , in the time of the Carnival , I observed many Recreations and Shews , as Rope-dancing , flying down the Rope , cuting off Bulls-necks with Swords , and many other . But at Vienna a notable trick which I saw there , pleased me much : A man of a middle Stature laid down upon his back , and a heavy Anvil was placed upon his Breast , as much as two men could well list , then two other men with great Hammers laid on , until they had given almost an hundred blows , and cut in sunder a great Horshooe of iron , about half an inch thick .

Here is no Christian Religion publickly permitted but the Roman , and therefore those of the Protestant , and Reformed Religion are fain to resort to Presburg , Forty miles off , for which they have some convenience by the Danube , and a Coach which goes every day . In the time of Maximilian the Second , they were permitted the Exercise of their Religion in the Church of the Holy Cross , in the City of Vienna . But afterwards were prohibited by Rodolphus the Second . The Emperor Matthias gave them permission to meet at Hernals , a little more than an English mile from Vienna ; and gave leave to their Ministers to come into the City , and there to christen , marry , baptize , and visit the sick . From which time they encreased very much , till Ferdinand the Second , returning from the Battel of Prague , banished their Minister from Vienna , and Arnolds , ; sent the Freyherr Jorger , to whom the Castle of Arnolds belonged , Prisoner unto Lintz ; and never gave over till he had taken away their Privileges and Freedom of meeting publickly in any part of lower Austria .

But here are no small number of Jews , who have a distinct Habitation assigned them over the Water . They have also a Street allowed them in the City for the day time , but they must all depart at night beyond the River into the Suburbs .

They are much distasted by the Citizens and Tradesmen , and the Scholars agree but ill with them . While I was at Vienna there was a quarrel between them to an high degree . For the Scholars assaulted the Jews Town , beat , wounded , and threw divers of them into the River . Divers Scholars were wounded , some killed , and also some Souldiers , who were commanded out to compose the Fray : and the Jews Town was guarded many days by the Souldiers of the City . This begot such ill Blood , and Complaints , that a good number of the Jews were to be banished at a certain day . The Jews , to ingratiate with the Empress , then with Child , presented her with a noble Silver Cradle , but she would not receive it ; and there was great danger of the general banishment of them when I left that City , which was afterwards effected , they being severely prohibited from living , not only at Vienna , but in any part of Austria , where there were formerly whole Villages of them , so as they were forced to betake themselves into the Dominions of the Turk , unto Venice , into Poland and Bohemia . They being not permitted to dwell in the Neighbour Countries of Hungary , subject to the Emperor , Styria , or Carinthia . But many of them went to Buda and were besieged there in the year 1684 and becoming obstinate haters of the Germans , they assisted the Turks with their Purses and with what else they were able to maintain the Town against the Imperial Forces .

I must confess they seemed useful to Vienna for ready accommodation of any thing , either by sale or exchange , but the people looked with an ill eye upon them , as taking away much of their Trade and Employment . They also looked upon them as useless to them in war for the defence of the place as Souldiers ; and were not without some jealousie that they held Correspondence with the Turks , and gave them Intelligence of their Affairs . Yet the Souldiery dealt much with them , and Captains for the suddain habiting , furnishing , and accommodating of their Companies . And dining one day with a Commander at a Jew's House , amongst other Discourse , I asked the Jew concerning the ten Tribes , and where they were ? He said they were far off in Asia , b yond a great Lake which was continually stormy , and scarce passable , but upon their Sabbath-day , upon which days the Jews do not willingly travel .

I have seen their Circumcision at Rome , Padua , and other parts . Their Physicians , ordinarily profess great skill in Vrines ; and the common people resort unto them rather than unto Christians , and are so credulous , and have such an opinion of them , that they might be made to believe they have some old Receipts of King Solomon .

There are many Jews in Italy , yet they seem to me to be in greater numbers in Germany . In Amsterdam they are also grown very numerous . At Franckfurt they told me there were seven thousand of them , which seemed scarce credible . At Colen they are in great numbers : at Hamburg not a few . But the greatest number surely is in Prague .

Though they be permitted in many Countries , yet divers Christian Princes and States have assigned them some mark in their Habits , to distinguish them . In Avignon their Hats are yellow . In Italy their Hats are covered over with Taffate . In Germany they wear Ruffs and Gowns with great Capes . In Holland I observed no distinction . But the Jews there , most of them having come out of Portugal , there may be some suspicion of them from their complexion .

Lastly , when I consider the old strength of Vienna , consisting in an old wall and a deep Ditch , I cannot much wonder that Matthias Corvinus , King of Hungary , took this City . And I must ascribe it , under God , unto the singular valour and resolution of the Defendants , that Solyman the Magnificent , with two hundred thousand men , was not able to take it , and though he made large breaches , could never enter it , but lost some thousands at an Assault , and departed at last with the loss of a great part of his Army . But this place is now in a far better condition strongly fortified , and able to resist the greatest Forces of Turky . The houses are cleared from the wall ; and yet for better security , when I was there , Count Souches advised the Emperor to pull down part of the Suburbs upon the other side of the nearest branch of the Danube , left the Turks might take advantage to play upon the two Bastions on that side .

The first hath on the obverse the head of the present Emperor Leopoldus encompassed and supported with arms , and Trophies ; with this Inscription ; Imp. Caesar . Leopold . 1. P. F. Augus. P. P. Imperator Caesar Leopoldus Primus Pius Faelix Augustus Pater Patriae .

And on the reverse an Arm coming out of a Cloud , over the City of Vienna , which supports the Imperial Crown , Sword , Scepter , and Globe with this Inscription ;

Consilio et Industria .

The Second Medal hath high Dutch Inscriptions . On the obverse the Seige of Vienna , with this about it ;

This is the Finger of God .

And on the reverse this Inscription ;

The Turkish pride which streightned Vienna , from the fourteenth of July , to the twelfth of September , 1683. was that day totally destroyed by the hand of the Lord .

To these , I have also added a noble Gold Medal of the Emperor Ferdinand the second . These are all delineated bigger than they really are , that they might appear the more plainly ; yet this last weighs above sixteen Guinneys , and is no ordinary Piece .

A JOURNEY FROM VIENNA IN AUSTRIA TO HAMBURG .

TAking a farewel of the Imperial City of Vienna , I ordered my Journey for Prague in Bohemia , which is usually six days Journey by Coach in the Summer and eight in the Winter . I went over the great Bridge of Vienna , upon the large Stream of the Danube , passing by the chappel of St. Bridget , of an eight-square Figure . This Bridge is a very great and massy work , supported by many high Trees and Timber , and hath between two and three thousand Trees laid upon it cross , or side by side , from one side of the Bridge to the other , for the passage over it after the German manner of making Bridges . At Ratisbone there is a handsome Stone-bridge over the Danube , and between that place and Vienna , divers of Wood ; but from Vienna to Belgrade I observed none but what were made with Boats .

Having passed the River , I entred into the Trans-Danubian Austria , or that part of Austria which lies between the Danube and the River Corneuburg . Theya , and came unto Corneuburg , a pretty Town , about which place the Emperor often hunts ; it is near the Hill Bisneberg , which is opposite unto Kalenherg . The Swedes advanced far when they took this place in the last wars , and held it so well , that they were not easily forced out of it . From thence I came to Stockerau , near the mouth of the River Mida , where it runs into the Danube . A place much noted for the death of St. Colman , a Scotch Saint , highly honoured in these parts . From thence to Guntersdorff , so to Colnedorff or Koldorff , which although it be on the South of the River Theya , is accounted the first Village of Moravia , and then came unto Znaim .

In all this part of Austria , which extends a great length on the North side of the Danube , conceived to have been anciently inhabited by the Marcomanni and Quadi , there are few or no Towns of antiquity , largeness , or note ; for the Romans made their Stations and Colonies upon the South-side of the Danube ; but the Country is full of Villages , and populous . One of the chiefest Towns is Crembs , which some call Cremona Austriae , which I saw as I came down the Danube . A great part of this Country was notably harrassed and plundered by the Swedes . The Soyl is light and easie to be ploughed .

Znaim . Zanim is a handsome place , with many Painted Houses in it , and accounted the fourth chief Town in Mahren , or Moravia ; ( Olmütz , Brün , and Iglaw being the other three ) this place is famous for the death of the Emperor Sigismund . It is seated by the River Theya , which divides Moravia from Austria and running at last into the River Marck , affords accommodation of passage into the Danube .

Iglau . From thence we passed by Vlverskirke● , Paulitz , and Moravian Budweisse , to Zimmaw , and by Byrnitz came to Igla , or Iglau , upon the River Igl● , which at last runs into the great River Marck , a very pleasant place , seated upon a Hill , on the Frontiers of Bohemia . It is well fortified à la moderna , upon one side , and hath one of the largest Piazza's that I have seen .

Moravia , is a pleasant and fruitful Country affording plenty of necessaries for life ; the people are plain dealing , stout , and make good Souldiers . It is commodiously furnished with Rivers , the greatest whereof is the Mora or Marck , which arising in the Northern part thereof , runs quite through the Country , and enters the Donaw by Teben not far from Presburg . The other considerable Streams are the Theya or Thaisa , the Swarta , the Schwitta , which run into the Marck . In the last Turkish wars the Tartars having passed the Wag in Hungaria , made incursions into Moravia , and carried away some thousands of the Inhabitants .

Leaving Igla , wee soon came into Bohemia , first coming into Ste●ken , then to Teutchin Broda by the River Sac●ua , formerly a strong place taken by Zisca , the famous Bohemian General , who then forced the Emperor Sigismund to fly out of Bohemia by the way of Igla From thence we came to Haberne , and so to Janikaw : At this place , upon the 24 th of February , 1643. was fought that , memorable Battel between the Swedes , commanded by Leonard Torstenson , and the Imperialists under Count Hatzsield , Goetz , and other Commanders . The Imperialists had the better at first ; but falling upon the Enemies Baggage , and being two greedy of Booty , they were defeated , three thousand slain , four thousand taken prisoners , with their General Hatzsield , and six or seven Colonels . The success hereof gave the Swedes advantage to proceed further , and into Silesia and Austria . In this Town meeting with a Gentleman who came from Schaclitz , which is not far from the Risgeburg , or Mountain of Gya its , about the Head of the River Elbe , I enquired of him concerning the spirit Ribensal , which is said to insest that Country , but he could say nothing therein of his own knowledge ; and though he was confident that there was such a Spirit , yet he confessed that for twelve years it had done no hurt . In Hills , Moun●ains , and places of Mines such reports are ordinary . It is reported that a Spirit haunts the Silver Mines of Brunswick : and another to be in the Tinn Mine of Slackenwalde in this Country of Bohemia , and to walk in the shape of a Monk , who strikes the Miners , sings and plays on the Bag-pipes , and doth many such Tricks . And Agricola in the latter end of his Sixth Book De re M tallica , gives this for one reason why Mines , or passages in Mines , are given over .

Czaslaw . From Janikaw I travelled to Czaslaw , a good Town , and the chiefest in the Czaslawer Circle : In this place they say that Zisca was buried , that famous Bohemian General ; he lost one Eye by an Arrow , and was at length blind of both , yet gave not over the war , and proved successful in it . He wished his Friends to make a Drum of his Skin , which should serve to fright away their Enemies . And though he cared not for any Sepulchral Monument , yet he had one in this place .

Cottenberg . From Czaslaw we came to Guttenberg , or Cottenberg , about eight Bohemian miles from Prague , every mile being five or six English miles . A large Town , and much frequented , not far from the River Albis or Elbe , of especial note for the Silver Mines about it : The Hells near it are not high , and consequently the Mines are not so deep as those of Hungary , and some others in Germany ; yet some are above seventy or eighty Fathoms . They have wrought at these Mines seven hundred years , and there are about thirty of them . I went down into that which was first digged , but afterwards lest for a long time , but they work there now again , it is called the Cotna , or Aufder Cotten , upon the Cotten , or Coat-hill ; and as the Story goes a Monk walking over this Hill found a kind of a Silver Tree sticking to his Garment , which was the occasion that they afterwards digged and built these Mines , and the place retains the name of Cottenberg .

The Mine into which I descended near the Town , is but nineteen Fathoms deep ; the chief Vein of the Ore runs South , and is about a foot in breadth : the Ore holds or contains in it Silver and Copper , so that out of an hundred pound weight of Ore , they ordinarily get an Ounce of Silver , and eight , nine , or ten ounces or more of Copper , even to pounds , but it is not well known , for the Copper-works are the Emperors . The Vndertakers get out what Silver they can , and afterwards sell the Ore , unto the Emperors Officers ; but some Ore is so rich as to contain eight or nine ounces of Silver . A blew Earth which they meet with in digging , affords the best hopes of Ore . Two men lately perished in this Mine , having made a fire in it , being either choaked with the smoak , or , as they thought , by the poysonous exhalations forced out of the Minerals by the fire . I have read that Libussa the Princess , and reputed Sorceress of Bohemia , foretold many things concerning these Mines ; but certain it is , that for the advantage and profit these bring , the Town hath suffered much in many wars . The Emperor Sigismund made hast out of it upon the approach of Zisca , and seeing he could not hold it , burnt the Town ; but it was soon rebuilt and possessed by Zisca , whose party called it the Purse of Antichrist .

Prague . Leaving Cottenberg , I came to Colline and to Bohemian Broda , so named to distinguish it from Dutch or Teutonick Broda before mentioned , a considerable good Town , and from thence came to Prag , or Prague , the Capital and Royal City of the Kingdom of Bohemia . The Walls of this City seem to enclose the greatest Circuit of ground of any I have seen in Germany but the Hills and void spaces within it take up a large Tract , and therein it is like the City of Lyon in France ; it is seated upon the River Muldau , by the Bohemians named Vltaue , a large rapid River , arising in the South part of Bohemia , and before it arrives at Prague , receives the River Sarsua and the Watta into it ; and Northward of Prague the River Egra , and joyns with the Elbe .

This great place consists of three Towns , named the Old , the New , and the Kleine Seitten , or lesser Town . The old Town lies upon the East of the River Muldau , is very populous , full of Buildings , private and publick . Very considerable in this part is also the University , wherein are great numbers of Students and Scholars , there being but one University in Bohemia ; many persons also resorting thither from other Countries . It is scarce credible what is reported of the number of Scholars in Prague in former Ages , as hath been delivered by divers Authors . And Lewis du May , Councellor unto the Duke of Wirtenburg , affirms , That there are at present scarce so many Students in all Germany , as there were at Prague in the year 1409. when they reckoned above Forty thousand under the Rectorship of John Huss . Charles the Fourth Emperor , and King of Bohemia , founded the Vniversity of Prague , giving equal privileges to the Bohemians , Polanders , and Germans : and when he would retrench his favours towards Strangers , there went out of the Town in a weeks time twenty four thousand Scholars , and a little after , sixteen thousand , whereby we may judge there were more Scholars in Prague than other persons in some great Citi s. There are also in this old Town divers Colleges and Cloysters . The Jesuites have a fair handsom College , near unto the Bridge , but the Buildings of the old Town are inferiour to those of the lesser Town .

The new Town is large , and together with the River , encompasses the old , and is divided from it by a large Trench or Ditch , into which they can let in the River . The Irish have a Cloyster of Franciscans near unto an old Tower in the Wall of the old Town . The Jesuites have also begun a large Cloyster , which , if finished according to its beginning and design , will be very spacious and noble . They are now making Bastions about the Town at one end thereof ; there is also a Citadel , but not finished , at Wisseraht , or Wissegrade , formerly The Princess Libussa . the Seat of the Princes of Bohemia , and also of the famous Princess Libussa , the Daughter of Crocus , and Wife unto Primislaus .

The Kleine Seitten , or lesser Prague , far exceeds the other for pleasantness and beauty of Buildings and fair Palaces . This part lies Westward of the River Muldau , which between this and the old Town , is passable by a strong Stone-bridge , consisting of sixteen great Arches , being about Seventeen hundred loot long , and Thirty five foot broad , and two open Gates under two high Towers of Stone at each end . A great part of this Town lies high , and upon the Hill stands Hratschin or Vpper Prague , and a Summer House of the Emperors , besides a Magnificent Palace of the Emperors , as King of Bohemia ; and by it a fair Cathedral Church dedicated to St. Veit , first built by St. Wenceslaus , Duke of Bohemia , 923. from whence the Town and River is best viewed . In this Church are divers old Monuments for great Persons ; as for Pogiebrachius , a Bohemian King , Wenc●slaus ▪ Rodolphus the Second , Charles the Fourth , Ladislaus , Maximilian the Second , and other Arch-Dukes and Emperors . There are also many Houses of the Nobility in this part of the City . The Palace and Garden of Colaredo is exceeding neat , though small . But I was most pleased with the Palace of Count Wallensteyn , Duke of Friedland , General unto the Emperor Ferdinand the Second , who being suspected to Usurp that Kingdom , was afterwards killed at Egra . This Palace was built upon the Ruins of an hundred Houses , purposely plucked down to make room for it ; wherein the Hall is large , the Garden handsom ; upon one side whereof there is a place to manage Horses , and near unto it a Fish-pond : in another part there is a noble Aviary with a Garden and Trees in it , after the manner of the Aviary of Prince Doria at Genoa , which is eightpaces long , and eighteen broad . The Stable is large , and worth the seeing , wherein there is a Marble Pillar between each Horse , and for every Horse there is placed in a niche of the Wall a Rack of Steel , and Manger of Marble , and over his Head hangs a Picture of the Horse , as big as the Life , with his Name under it . Among the rest , I observed that a Bay-horse had for his Name Monte d'Oro , a Mare , Bel a donna , another Espagnoletta , and his most beloved Horse was named Mas Queride .

Some have thought that the best high German is spoken in this part of Prague ; and there living so many of the Nobility and great Persons , it is not to be wondred at , that their Language is better than ordinary . But the common Language of Bohemia is a Dialect of the Sclavonian , though very many speak also High dutch , as we found in all our passage through that Country . Koningsmark being with his Forces on the Frontiers of Bohemia , a discontented Colonel of the Imperialists , came unto him , making it probable that he might surprize Hratschin , and the lesser side of Prague , which he suddainly attempted , and so successfully , that he surprized many Officers , and old Colaredo in his Bed , getting so great a Booty , that he could scarce carry it away .

A Part of Prague is inhabited by Jews , and called the Jews Town ; there are no small number of them , and many rich , as trading in all Commodities , and have good skill in Jewels , and several sorts of Stones digged out of the Mines in Bohemia : I bought some Boh●mian Topazes of them , neatly cut and well-figured , and some which were very large and clear , were at the rate of seven or eight Dollars . During my s●ay here , I had a great desire to have saluted Johannes Marcus Marci , a famous Physician and Philosopher of Prague , and also to have induced him to a Correspondence with the Royal Society , but I understood that he had left this World , to the great grief of Learned Men in these and other parts .

Many here do speak still of John Huss , and Jerome of Prague , and I have seen Silver Medals of them . They were surely very notable men ; and I shall only set down what Aeneas Sylvius , or Pope Pius the Second said of them . Johannes aetate major & authoritate , doctrinâ , & ●acundi● superior Hiero●ymus , pertul●runt ambo constanti animo necem , & quasi ad Epulum invitati , ad incendium properarunt , nullam emittentes vocem quae miseri animi posset ●erre iudicium : ubi ardere ceperunt , hym●um cecinere quem vix ●lamma & fragor ignis intercipere potuit , nemo Philosophorum tam forti animo mo tem pertulisse tradi●ur ●uam isti incendium . In Hist. Bohemica . John was of greater years and authority , Jerome of more Eloquence and Learning : both of them endured their Death with great constancy , and went unto the fire as though invited to a Banquet : when they began to burn , they sung an Hymn , which the flame and fire could scarce intercept . None of the old Philosophers endured their death with such a courageous mind as these the fire .

The same Author compares Prague unto the City of Florence in Tuscany , wherefore having seen both places , I cannot omit to say something , I had a view of the City of Florence from the top of the Domo , or Cathedral , and of Prague from the Church of St Veit , upon the Hill in the lesser Town : Prague seemed to my eye to contain a far greater Circuit than Florence ; it seemed also more populous , and to exceed it very much in the number of People , the Streets larger , and the Windows of Palaces and fair Houses being of Glass , looked not so tatter'dly as the ragged Paper Windows of Florence . The River Arno , which runs through Florence , is not to be compared with the Muldau at Prague , having run about an hundred miles from its Head . The large , massy , long Stone-Bridge exceeds any of , if not all , the four Bridges of Florence . The Emperors Palace also upon the Hill is very stately : But as for the well-paved Streets of Florence , the Domo , or Cathedral with black and white Marble , with a Cupola , second only to that of St. Peters of Rome , for the incomparable Chappel of St. Laurence , and the Dukes Gallery and Rar●ties , I must confess I saw not any thing in Prague which a●swered them . At Wissenberg , or the White Hill near Prague , that deciding Battel was fought Novemb. 8 ▪ 1620. between Frederick , Prince Palatine of the Rhine , elected King of Bohemia , and the Forces of the Emperor ●erd●nand the Second , which such a deep blow unto the Protestant Party , wherein so many of Frederick's Forces were slain and drowned in the River in their flight , wherein also that famous Commander Papenheim was found lying among the dead , who notwitstanding died not of his wounds , but was reserved to end his days with the King of Sweden in the memorable Battel of Lutzen .

From Prague I designed to pass by water down the Muldau , which unites with the Elbe about Melni●k , and so down the El●e unto Hamburg . But the Winter advancing , and the Weather proving cold , the Boats did not go as in Summer , and therefore I took my Journey by Land , and leaving Prague and the Muldau on the right hand I passed the first day to Zagethal , the next to Weluerne , and so to Budin and Labasitz upon the Elbe . Having passed over the Egra , a considerable River , arising not far from the City of Egra , and at last running into the Elbe ; the next by the Castle of Kriegstein , or Warrestone , seated upon a high steep Rock , I came to Ausig , a small City not far from the Elbe , having little remarkable in it , like many other small Cities of Bohemia , and so forward to Nolndorff , where we lodged upon Mount Kninsberg , the day after we entred into Misnia , passing by Peterswald and Hellendorff the first Village in Misnia , and Kisibel , where are Iron Mines about eighteen Fathomsdeep , and Iron works .

We now understood that Bohemia was a larger Country than we expected ; it lies round , and some say it is three days postage over ; others that the Diameter extends two hundred miles . From Igla upon the Con●ines unto Hellendorff , it took me nine days Journey in November by Coach , not reckoning the time I staid at Prague . In many places there are very ill Passages , and so rudely mended with great Trees , laid side by side , that they are often very troublesome to pass .

We travelled afterwards towards Dresden , in a fruitful Country , wherein were many Deer in most parts of the way , in sight of the Castle of Pilnitz , a strong place , and seated high . I could not but cast an eye on the Rocks behind us in the Forest of Bohemia , which looked like the Ruines of a Wall which formerly enclosed Bohemia , which Country is described with a Forest or Woods round about it .

But I confess I did not really perceive that there was such a Wood round about it as is commonly set forth in Mapps ; only both within , and also in many parts of the Borders , there are great Woods which are conceived to have been part of the Hercinian Forest .

The Bohemians are a strong , stout , and hardy People , make good Souldiers , and have made wars both at home and abroad ; and Histories are full of their warlike Exploits . The chief Magazine of the King is at Egra ▪ a strong City , accounted the Second of Bohemia . The Country affords also lusty and strong Horses . The common sort of People are boysterous , rough , and quarrelsome , especially in drink , whereto they are too much addicted . The Nobility and Gentry are civil and kind unto Strangers . There are many great Families of t●e Nobility , among which that of Rosenberg and Popel is ancient , and of high esteem . Since the unhappy accepting of the Crown by Frederick Count Palatine , and the ill success upon it , there hath been a great alteration in this Country , both as to People and their Manners ; for thereupon many thousands left the Kingdom , and many who remained , turned their Religion . And the Emperors have used the like severity upon others in their Hereditary Dominions .

Dresden . The next considerable place we came unto was Dresden in Misnia , as well worth the seeing as almost any Town in Germany . Dresden is the S●at and Residence of the Elector of Saxony , seated upon the River Elbe , over which there is a very noble Stone-bridge of Seventeen Arches . The City is very well fortified after the Modern way , the Bastions covered or lined with Brick , and in each Bastion a Cavallier : It hath also a large Trench or Ditch about it , in some places double ; and the River Elbe adds unto its strength . The Walls are very strong : and they say , that when the first Stone was laid to build them , there was placed in the Earth a Silver Cup gilded , a Book of the Laws , and another of Coyns , and three Glasses filled with Wine . It hath also three Gates . The places most worth the seeing are these : The Italian Garden in the Suburbs ; the Hunters House in the old Town beyond the River ; the Electors Palace ; his House for wild Beasts ; his Stable-house and Arsenal , of which I shall set down some things observable in their kind . In the Electors Palace , the Hall is very large , and handsomly painted with Cities , Gyants , and the Habits of several Nations , and set out with seven large branched Candlesticks : But that which affords the greatest delight is his Kunstkammer . Art-Chamber , or Collection of Rareties , both of Art and Nature . In the first Partition are to be seen all manner of well made Instruments belonging to most Trades , as Joyners , Turners , Barbers , Smiths , Chirurgeons , and other Artificers : Instruments to force open Doors , Chests , &c. In the other Chambers these and the like are observable .

A Tube-glass four Ells long . A large blew Turkish-glass . Variety of Coral and artificial Works of it . Fowls made out of Mother of Pearl . Drinking Cups in the shape of Dragons , Elephants , &c. Castles of Gold and Mother of Pearl . Many Fowls and Cups made out of Nautili , and other Shells , and out of Oestrich-eggs . A fine Oestrich made out of its Egg , with the Feathers of Gold . A Cup made out of the Ball taken out of an Oxes Stomach , richly set , about a foot long . A Stone as big as my fist , like a Bezoar-stone , taken out of a Horse . A Purse made out of the Linum Incombustible . Silver Ore from the Mines of Freiberg , almost pure , in strings and shoots . A Natural Cross of Silver Ore . One hundred and twenty one Heads carved on the outside of a Cherry-stone . A Religious Man or Friar of Japan carved in Box. A Chrystal Cabinet , sold by Oliver Cromwell , wherein is kept a Ring which hath Stones in it in the shape of a Castle . His Majesty King Charles the Second on Horse-back , carved out of Iron . A Head of King Charles the First . A Glass Organ . Topazes unpolished , ten Inches in Diameter . A Cup out of a Topaze . Emeralds an inch in Diameter , as they grow in the Rock , resembling the Vitrio●um Nativum , as I saw it in Paradise-hill by Schemnitz in Hungary . Stones named Thunder-stones , smelling of Fire . Rocks made out of all sorts of Ore , and the names of the places written upon them from whence they were digged .

The Figures of Fishes in Stones out of Mansfield ; the Stones are dark-coloured , but the Fishes of a Gold or Copper colour . All sorts of Stones which are to be found about Saxony and Misnia polished . Two large pieces of pure Virgin Gold out of the Mine . A Cabinet of all sorts of Apothecaries Instruments and chief Druggs . A Hart with a Cabinet made in his side , containing all Medicines taken from a Hart. A white Hart as big as the Life , made out of the shavings and filings of Harts-horn , and looking like Plaister . Figures printed in Trees . A Spur in part of a Tree . Horns in Trees .

A Chamber of all manner of Mathematical Instruments and Charts . A good Library of Mathematical Books . An Vnicorns-horn , which they will have to be of a Land Vnicorn , being neither wreathed nor hollow . A Dart of Vnicorns-horn . Among the Pictures in the same Chambers these seemed remarkable : A Picture by Colier , of the Siege of Jerusalem , with great number of Figures , and highly esteemed . Four Heads of the Elements made out of the Creatures which belong to them in Caricatura . A painting of Merchants Letters stuck behind green Tap● . A Storm by Rubens . Two Nuns by Lucas van Leyden . A Picture of Dr. Luther in the Cloyster , in his Gown , and after his Death . There is also great variety of excellent Clockwork , and an attempt for a perpetual motion by a rowling bullet . A Cuckow sings by Clockwork , a Horseman rids , a Ship sails , an old Woman walks , a Centaur runs and shoots , a Crab creeps upon a Table so well as to amaze and delight ; but among all , the Crab seems to be most naturally imitated .

In the Stable-house , besides the extraordinary noble Stable of Horses , wherein every Horse eats out of a Rack of Iron , and Manger of Copper ; and on a Pillar by him his Comb , Bridle and Saddle , and other Necessaries , hang ; besides a handsome Window with a Curtain before him . There are observable a very fair Fountain and pond set about with handsome Ballisters , where the Horses are watered . A long walk arched and painted with Horses ; over which is a Gallery with the Pictures of all the Dukes and Electors of Saxony , both in their Military and Electoral Habits . Two Beds of Marble . Drinking Cups which seem not great , yet so co●trived as to hold divers quarts . A Spring which causes a Horseman in Silver to come riding in , bringing a Cup of Wine in his hand . A pair of noble Pistols with all the Stories of the New and Old Testament upon them . A Glass Gun . A Gun which shoots off Forty times without charging again . A Piece which shews the manner of the first invention of striking Fire in Guns . A Lock without a cock .

A Chamber of rich Sleds for Horses , made use of in Jollity and pompous Courses upon the Snow . A white Bears skin stuffed . Tigers and Lyons Skins . A Cassowares Skin . Good Armour for Men and Horses . Many sorts of Indian Money , Duntans , and other sorts . A Picture of Laplanders and their Customs . A Lapland Drum with Figures to conjure by . A Chamber of all Hunting Arms and N●cessaries .

The Armamentarium-Armory or Arsenal , is a long , square Building , wherein are about Four hundred brass Pieces of Ordnance , great number of Muskets and Armour in the upper Room , Silver Coats of Male. Pieces of Ordnance to be charged behind . Retorts and Alembicks in the shape of Granados . The Steeple of the chief Chu●ch was lately burnt by Lightning , and the Canon melted which were upon it .

In the Hunting-house , in the old Town , are fifteen Bears very well provided for and looked unto . They have Fountains and Ponds to wash themselves in , wherein they much delight : And near to the Pond are high ragged Posts or Trees set up for the Bears to climb up , and Scaffolds made at the top to sun and dry themselves ; where they will also sleep , and come and go as the K●eper calls them . The Horn Gallery is also remarkable in this place , out of which there are three Chambers ; one painted with several sorts of Hunting ; another with all sorts of Fowl ; and a third with great variety of Beasts .

In the House for wild Beasts I took notice of a Marian , which is a four-footed Beast , that hangs upon Trees by the Tail . Also a wild or Mountain-Cat of a large size . Five young Bears . Five old black Bears . A white Bear very large ; the feet , the head , and the neck are longer than those of the black , but not so thick . Two Lyons . Ten Luekses ; very fine Beast , in bigness , colour , and shape between a Tyg●r and a wild Cat ; the tips of their Ears and Tails are black , their Eyes lively , their Skin Lyon-coloured , and spotted , especially about their Eyes .

The Italian Garden and Summer-house , in the Suburbs is very noble , wherein are two Obelisks , two gallant Fountains , a Theatre and good Landskips . This Garden and Summer-house were built by two of the Prince Elector's Eunuchs , and afterwards sold unto the Prince for six and twenty thousand Dollars .

The Elector of Saxony his Beare Garden at Dresden in Misnia .

Oli●er . F●

Dr. Luther's Holiday was kept when I was there . The chief Church is very fair : They preach every morning at seven a Clock . The Lutheran women mourn in white , as others do in Black ; and the woman of the House doth ordinarily say Grace instead of the man . The best High-dutch is spoken in this place , and other parts of Misnia , which is a very pleasant fruitful Country , and full of good Towns and Villages .

Leaving this noble place , I took not the nearest Road , but turned out of the way unto Freiberg , a place noted for Silver Mines ; whereof I Freiberg . had read something in Agricola , and heard very much in these parts . About an English mile or two from Freiberg , there are many remarkable Mines . I took notice of three of them : One called Auff den hohen berg , or upon the high Hill , which is the deepest in these parts , as being seventy seven of their Fathoms deep ; each of their Fathoms contains twelve of their Ells , and three of their Ells makes one of our Fathoms . So that the depth of this Mine exceeds any of those wherein I was in Hungary . There is another Mine called Himmelfurst , or the Prince of Heaven , wherein not long since there was Ore found so rich , as in an hundred pounds weight to contain an hundred and thirty Marks of Silver , or sixty five pounds in the hundred , but there was not much of it : And where the Veins are richest , they are observed to be thinnest , about two fingers broad ; but the ordinary Ore is but poor , holding an ounce , or an ounce and half , in an hundred pounds weight ; and if it holds but half an ounce they work it . Nor is this much to be wondered at , for in the vast rich Mines of Peru and Chili , they will work the Silver Ore which contains four or five ounces in a Silver Mines ▪ hundred pound weight ; and ten or twelve ounces is the ordinary rate of the common Ore of that rich Mountain of Potosi , out of which Hill alone , if we believe Albero Alonso Barba , Curate of the Parish of St. Bernard in that City , there hath been more Silver taken than would cover all Misnia over and over : For thus he saith , Potosi hath already yielded between four and five hundred Millions of pieces of Eight . A quantity sufficient to make such another Hill of Silver : It is hard to form a conception equal unto so exorbitant a heap of Riches ; but the better to help our imagination herein , I know , that if the Ground were covered with so many pieces of Eight , laid as close to one another as is possible , they would take up the space of sixty Leagues square .

Here at Freiberg they have many ways to open the Ore whereby it may be melted ; as by Lead and a sort of Silver Ore which holds Lead in it . They have also Sulphur Ore found here , which after it is burned , doth help much towards the susion of Metals : And besides these , Slich , or pounded and washed Ore ; and Slacken , which is the Dross or Cake , or Skum taken out of the Vortiegel , or Pan which receives the melted Minerals , let out at the bottom of the melting Furnace . Their Treibshearth , or driving Furnace , where the Litharge is driven off , agrees better with the Figure of it in Agricola , than those of Hungary : Some of the Litharge is green : Their Buck-work and their Engines which pound the Ore , the Coal , and Clay , are also very neat . Much of their Ore is washed , especially the poorest , and that which is mixed with stones , quarts , or sparrs .

This is peculiar in their working , that they burn the pounded and washed Ore in the Roasthearth , before they melt it in the Smeltzoven , or melting Furnace .

At those Mines of Hungary where I was , they used not the Virgula divina , or forked Hazel , to find out Silver Ore or hidden Treasure in the Earth ; and I should little depend thereon : but here they have an esteem of it . And I observed the use thereof , and the manner how they did it . But I shall omit the Description of it , because it is set down in divers Books , and it cannot be so well described as shown to the Eye .

I saw also another Mine , called Auff der Halsbrucker , about eighty of our Fathoms deep , and much worked : They have divers sorts of Ore ; but they contain either Silver and Copper , Silver and Lead , or all three ; but they work them only for Silver . They have divers damps in these Mines , where it is deep . The Mines are cold where the outward Air comes in ; but where not , warm . The greatest trouble they have is by dust , which spoils their Lungs and Stomachs , and frets their Skins . But they are not so much troubled with water ; and have very Brimstone Mines . good Engines to draw the water out .

The Sulphur or Brimstone Ore which is found here , is also rich ; it is hard and stony , as other Ores are ; that which hath red spots is accounted the best . They use a peculiar Furnace to melt the Brimstone from the Ore ; some whereof yields three pounds of Sulphur , out of an hundred weight of Ore , which as it melts , runs out of the Furnace into water , or the Exhalations from the Ore near or in the Fire , are condensed into Brimstone by the Surface of the Water placed to receive it ; this is once again melted and purified . Some of the Brimstone Ore contains Silver , some Copper , and some both in a small proportion .

After the Sulphur is melted from the Ore , the remainder serves for two uses ; that is , either for the melting of Silver , or for the making of Vitriol : To the former only thus ; A proportion is cast into the melting Furnace of the Silver , to this end , to use the Miners expression to make the Silver which is hard , fluid .

Two Miners in their habits

Virgula

Divina

The figure of an Iron retort such as are vsed at the quicksilver worke at Idria .

Friberg , is a round well-walled City ; hath handsom Streets , a Piazza , the Elector's Castle ; and five Gates . The Church of St. Peter is fair , where many of the Dukes and Ducal Family have been buried , and have fair Monuments ; especiall ▪ Duke Mauritius Elector of Saxony , whose Monument in black Marble is raised three piles high , adorned with many fair Statua's in Al●baster and white Marble , and esteemed one of the noblest , if not the best , in Germany . And when this Town was surrendered unto Holck and Gallas , Octob. 5. 1632 ▪ the Duke of Saxony paid 80000 Dollars to save the Monuments of his Predecessours from being ransacked and desaced , it being the fashion of divers German Princes to be buried in their Robes , with their Ensigns of Honour , Rings , Jewels , and the like , which would have been booty , and probably have run the same fortune as the Cloister of Haibr●● , within twelve English miles of Nurenberg where some of the Marquisses of Onspach , who are of the Electoral House of Brandenburg , lie entombed , where Tilly's Souldiers brake open the Vault , and robbed the dead Corpses of the Marquisses , George Frederick , and ●●achim Ernest , of the Jewels , Rings and other rich Ornaments with which they were entombed .

There are some Vaults and Subterraneous Cavities in the City , by which there are passages into the Mines . This place was formerly streightly besieged by the Emperor Adolphus , for the space of a year and a month , and at last betrayed by a Fugitive , who let in a party of the Emperors into the Town by a Subterraneous Passage near St. Donats Gate , and upon the continual Batteries made at the Town , and concussion of the Earth about it , the Earth sunk down in many places , and swallowed great numbers of the Emperors Army .

These Mines afford great benefit unto the City , and also unto the Elector ; They are said to have been found out in the year 1180. But there have been other Silver Mines discovered since ; as at Schneeberg , at Anneberg and at Joachims Dale , 1526.

Having passing some time at Friberg , I ordered my Journey for Leipsick , and travelling by Walthe●m and Coldick , came unto it . Leipsick .

Leipsick is seated upon the River Elster , which arising in Voytland , or Terra Advocatorum , passes by it , and afterwards runs into the River Sala . It is a rich and great trading City ; hath three Marts in the year , and great resort unto it from many parts : It is well built , and divers Houses are seven stories high . The Castle is strictly guarded , and hath in it a strong white Tower . But the Works about the Town are not very considerable , although they might be made strong .

The Church of St. Nicholas is well adorned , and hath the name to be the fairest within side of any Lutheran Church in Germany ; they have also a remarkable Burial-place or Godtsaker , walled about , and cloystered near the Wall , wherein the better sort are buried , as the rest in the middle and open part . Which put me in mind of that noble Burial-place , which I saw at Pisa in Tuscany , called Il campo Santo , because the Earth which the Emperor Frederick Barbarossa brought from the Holy Land , for the Ballast of his Ships , was laid upon that Ground .

Leipsick is famous for two great Battels fought near unto it , in the last Swedish wars ; one between Gustavus Adolphus , King of Sweden , and Count Tilly , General of the Imperialists , 1631. wherein the Swedes obtained a great Victory . Tilly was wounded , fled and lived not long after . Another some years after in the same place , wherein Leonard Torstenson the Swede , overcame Arch-duke Leopoldus Gulielmus , and Octavio Piccolomini , Generals of the Imperial Army . And about a mile and a half from hence , at Lutzen , another great Battel was fought , 1632. between the King of Sweden and the Imperial Army , commanded by Albert Wallensteyn Duke of Friedland , wherein the Swedes obtained the Victory , but the King of Sweden was slain ; and on the Imperial side that famous Commander , Godfrey Count of Pappenheim .

There is also an Vniversity at leipsick , first occasioned by the German Scholars of Prague , who in the troubles of the Hussites came hither , to the number of Two thousand in one day ; and is still one of the Three Vniversities in the Elector's Dominions ; the other being Jena by the River Sala , and Wittenberg upon the Elbe . In this Vniversity they are much addicted to the study of the Law , but there are also Learned men in other Faculties .

The Magistrates of Leipsick are also considerable . Der herr von Adlershelme was the Burgomaster , a courteous Learned Person , and great Virtuoso , who had collected and observed many things : He hath had five fair Daughters brought up in all commendable ways of working , Drawing , Painting , Inlaying with Flowers , with Mother of Pearl , Stones , and other pretty Works . And they spake divers Languages , which they learned at a School in Holland : So that his house hath a great deal of excellent Furniture of his Childrens work , and is one of the most considerable Curiosities to be seen in Leipsick . His Summer-house is handsom , painted both within and without : And in the Water about , are Muscovy Ducks , Indian Geese , and divers rare Fowls . In his Chamber of Rareties there are many things considerable : But having seen divers of them in other places , and lately set down some Varieties of the Elector of Saxony , I shall mention but a few .

An Elephant's Head with the dentes molares in it . An Animal like an Armadillo , but the Scales are much larger , and the Tail broader . Very large flying Fishes . A Sea-horse . Bread of Mount Libanus . A Cedar-branch with the Fruit upon it . Large Granates as they grow in the Mine . A Sire●s hand . A Chameleon . A piece of Iron , which seems to be the head of a Spear , found in the Tooth of an Elephant , the Tooth being grown about it . The Isle of Jersey drawn by our King Charles the Second . A piece of Wood with the Blood of King Charles the First upon it . A Greenland Lance with a large Bell at the end of it . Much Japan painting , wherein their manner of hunting and working may be observed . A Picture of our Saviour , the Hatches of which are writing , or written , and contain the story of his Passion . Bevers taken in the River Elbe . A Picture of the murther of the Innocents , done by Albert Durer . Pictures of divers strange Fowls . A Greenland Boat . The Skins of white Bears , Tigres , Wolves , and other Beasts . And I must not omit the Garter of an English Bride , with the story of it ; of the Fashion in England for the Bridemen to take it off , and wear it in their Hat , which seemed so strange to the Germans , that I was obliged to confirm it to them , by assuring them that I had divers times wore such a Garter my self .

Leaving this busy and trading City of Leipsick , I directed my Journey unto Magdeburg , and travelled through a plain Country , between the River Sala and the Elbe , by Landsberg , nigh to Petersdorff , where there is a small Hill which overlooks all the Country , next to Koehten , the Residence of the Prince of Anhalt , then to Caln , and over the River Sala , before it runs into the Elbe , which arising at Mount Fichtelberg , now hastens towards it . Fichtelberg is a considerable Mountain , near which are divers Mines , Baths , and Mineral-waters , of which Gasper B●uschius hath written a Description . And from it arise four Rivers , running to the four quarters of the World . The Maine or Maenus , towards the West ; the Nab or Nabus , towards the South ; the Aeger towards the East ; and the forementioned Sala towards the North. These four afterwards fall into the three greatest Rivers of Germany , the Danube , the Rhine , and the Elbe . Then to Sals or Saltz , a place noted for Salt-springs , and that night to Magdeburg .

Magdeburg . Parthenopolis , or Magdeburg , is seated by the River Elle , formerly the Metropolitan City of Germany , now under the Marquiss of Brandenburg , of very great Circuit , but little more than half built again , since it was sacked and burnt by Tilly , and Thirty six thousand persons put to the Sword and destroyed . I could not but observe the ruinous and destructive effects of the late wars in many parts of Germany , but not in any so great and flourishing a place as this : And a man might think , that after this great destruction of Houses and People , this place should not be able to stand a Siege ; yet a few years after , it was besieged by General Hatzfield , unto whom ( Bannier the Swede not being able to relieve it ) it was yielded . The Cathedral Church is very fair , and built like an English one , by the Emperor Otho the First , and his Empress Editha , an English Woman ▪ Daughter unto King Edmund , whose Effigies in Stone I saw in the Church , with nineteen Tuns of Gold by her , which she gave thereto . And to say the truth , English money hath done great things in Germany , for hereby , or with a good part thereof , this Church was built or endowed . Leopoldus , Duke of Austria , built the old Walls of Vienna with the ransom of King Richard the First , whom he detained in his return through Austria from the Holy Land . King Edward the First sent a great Sum of Money unto the Emperor Adolphus , for the raising of Souldiers in Germany , which the Emperor employed in purchasing a great part of Misnia for himself .

The Lutheran Churches are handsom , and their Pulpits are extraordinary noble , and richly set off , as I observed , through all Saxony , Norimberg , and where they are Masters of the Places , and have not their Churches only by permission ; here they shewed me in the Cathedral Church of St. Maurice , the Statua's of the five wise Virgins smiling , and of the five foolish Virgins lamenting , which are very well expressed : They shewed me also two odd Reliques , which they still kept as Rareties ; that is , the Bason wherein Pilate washed his hands , when he declared himself free from the Blood of our Saviour ; and the Ladder whereon the Cock stood when he crowed after St. Peter's denying of Christ .

In the Ruines of the Cloister of the Augustines , there is still to be seen Luther's Chamber , his Bedstead , and Table , and upon the Door are these German Verses .

Dis war Lutheri Kammerlin , Wan er in 's Cl●ster kam herin ; Gedachnis halb wird noch itzund Herin gesehen sein Bettespund .

i. e.

Luther did lodge within this little Room , When first he did into the Cloister come ; In memory whereof we still do keep The Bedstead within which he us'd to sleep .

I lodged at Magdeburg , in an old man's House , who would tell me many stories of the burning of the Town , the cruelties and bloody usage of the people , who were destroyed without exception : The Nuns , many of them being drowned in the River Elbe . Alter which some observed that Count Tilly never prospered in his Wars . He told me also that Dureus lodged with him , who was employed by King Charles the First , to endeavour a reconciliation between the Lutherans and Calvinists in Germany , and to unite them if possible . We were now in the Territory of the Elector of Brandenburg . Fridericus Wilhelmus , Great Chamberlain of the Empire , who is in effect possessed of Magdeburg , and next unto the Austrian Family , is the most potent Prince in Germany , being able to raise great Armies , and his Dominions so large , that they are reckoned to extend two hundred German miles in length , from the further part of Prussia unto Cleve , but they lay not together , but interspersed with many other Princes Countries : Howsoever , a Horse-man may so order his Journey , as to lie every night in one of the Electors Towns , in travelling from one end of his Territories to another .

I had now left the pure German Language behind me , for at Magdeburg comes in another kind of German , called Plat-Deutch , Broad-Dutch , Niedersachsische , or the Language of lower Saxony ; a great Language , spoken in the North part of Germany : They speak it at Hamburg , Dantzick , ●ubeck , and many great Cities : But they can converse with the other High-dutch , and with some difficulty also with the Netherlanders ; the one speaking in his Language , and the other replying in his .

At this City of Magdelurg was performed the first Turnament that was in Germany , which was opened in the year 635. by the Emperor Henry , Surnamed the Fowler , who coming from the War of Hungary , exceedingly satisfied with the Nobility , would oblige them to exercise themselves in handling their Arms , and managi g their Horses , and therefore instituted these Sports , whereby the Nobility was powerfully attracted to Valour and Gallantry , and induced to perfect and accomplish themselves in all kind of Chevalry . No new Nobility , no Bastard , no Vsurper , none guilty of High Treason , no Oppressor of Widows and Orphans , none born of Parents whereof one was of base Extraction and Ignoble , no Heretique , Murderer , Traytor , no Coward that had run away from the Battel , nor indiscreet Person that had given offence to Ladies by word or deed , were admitted to this Honour , nor above One of the same Family at a time . Princes came into the Lists with four Squries a piece , Counts and Bar●ns with three , a Knight with two , and a Gentleman with one .

The hour and place for the Turnamen● , being appointed , he that had a desire to break a Lance there , came to the President 's Lodgings to have his Name written down , which was done in the presence of three Heralds , to whom the Champion delivered his Helmet and Sword , and after he had been at confession , presented himself in the Lists with one or more Squires , according to his quality . The Horses of the Combatants were to be without fault or exception ; the Caparisons and Furniture such as gave no offence ; their Saddles without any extraordinary rising before and behind , and all things equal . After which they performed all kind of Exercises on Horse back : and after the Jousts were ended , every man repaired to the President of his Nation , to wait for the Sentence of the Judg●s ; and he that best deserved the Prize , received it either from the hand of some Lady , or from the Prince that gave it .

These Pastimes were afterwards disused , upon the Emulation it caused between the Princes and Nobility , who strove to outvy one another ; or upon wars , in which there was no leisure for such Exercises ; or perhaps upon consideration that divers brave men lost their lives in these Encounters : and no less a Prince than Henry the Second , King of France , neglecting to wear his Beaver down , was slain in a Turnament . And at Darmstadt also , in the year 1403. at the Three and twentieth Turnament which was held in Germany , the Gentlemen of Franconia and those of Hesse , drew so much blood upon one another , that there remained dead upon the place seventeen of the former , and nine of the latter .

The Winter growing on called me to make haste to Hamburg , from whence I intended to pass by Sea into England , and therefore I took the advantage of the Stage-Coaches at Magdeburg , and in four days came to Hamburg . I traveled through a Country for the most part barren , of little accommodation , or scarce any thing very remarkable , through part of the Elector of Brandenburg , and then through the Duke of Lunenburg's Country , passing by the City of Lunenburg , a handsom walled City , beautified with divers fair Churches , with high Spires . The Church of St. Lambert , the Town-house , and the Duke's Palace , are fair . Here are salt-springs in the Town , very beneficial to the place , and supplying the neighbour Countries . The Town is commanded by a Hill near to it , called Kalkberg , which lies on the North-side .

In this Road through lower Saxony , I could not but take notice of many Barrows or Mounts of Earth , the burial Monuments of great and famous Men , to be often observed also in open Countries in England , and sometimes rows of great Stones , like those in Wormius his Danish Antiquities : And in one place I took more particular notice of them , where three massy Stones in the middle , were encompassed in a large square by other large Stones set up on end .

Hamburg is a fair City , and one of the great ones in Germany ; it is seated in a Plain , being populous , rich and remarkably strong : It is fortified according to the modern manner , much after the way of Holland , with works of earth , but in no place yet covered or faced with brick or stone : The Territory belonging to it is but small ; it is divided into the new and the old Town . There are five Gates : The Stone gate , leading towards Lubeck ; the Dome-gate ; the Alten-gate , or which leads unto Altenaw , a place near the Town , belonging to the King of Denmark , where the Romanists and Calvinists have their Churches ; the Bridge-gate ; and the Dike-gate . The Buildings of this City are handsom , and commonly have a fair entrance into them . The Senate-house is noble , adorned with carved Statua's of the Nine Worthies . The Exchange or place of meeting for Merchants , was then enlarging , it being too small to receive those Numbers which frequented it . Many of their Churches are very fair , with high Steeples , covered with Copper . The Front of St. Katherines is beautiful . The Steeple of St. Nicholas is supported with great gilded Globes . The other great Churches , are the Dome-Church , St. Peters , St. Jacob , the greater and less , St. Michael , the New-Church , in the New town . The lesser Churches , are St. Gertrude , St. Mary Magdalen , and the Holy Ghost . They have a Sermon every day , as in other Lutheran Cities .

The River Alster runs through it into the Elbe , and turns many Mills : and the Tide comes up into divers Streets through Channels , although it be distant eighteen German miles from the Sea , or Mouth of the Elbe . This place abounds with shipping , and many of good Burden , and is well seated for Trade , as having an open passage into the Ocean , and being but a days Journey from Lubeck on the Baltick Sea , and being seated upon the long River Elbe , the third great River of Germany , whereby it may have Commerce with a great part of that Country , and as far as Bohemia .

Hamburg is full of Strangers and Merchants of several , Countries . The English Company have good Privileges and a rich Trade , and Ships come laden thither with Cloth to the value of an hundred thousand pounds sterling ; and they live here in good Reputation , and to the honour of their Country : they are Persons of worth , courtesie , and civility ; and I heartily wish them all success in their Affairs . I must not omit the acknowledgment of my particular Obligation to that learned and worthy Person , Mr. Griffin , Preacher unto the Company , Mr. Free , the Treasurer , Mr. Banks , who hath been in many places of Natolia , and the Holy Land , Mr. Jenkinson , and my very obliging Friends Mr. Catelin and Mr. Townly .

This place hath the happiness to be quiet when the great Princes of Europe are at war ; for it desires to hold a strict Amity with Princes , and declines all Dissention with them .

I found a Ship at Hamburg bound for London , and while it was fitting for Sail , I made a short excursion into part of the King of Denmarks Country ; and returning to Hamburg again , I ordered my affairs for England upon the first wind , and hoped the next Tide to get over the Altenaw-sand , and to pass the Blanckness , but a cross wind prevented , so that I left not Hamburg till the tenth of December , and then I had the good company of Mr. Hoyle , who came from Narva , and set Sail in a new Ship ; but the days being at the shortest , and the nights dark in the New-Moon , the Tide falling also in the day time , we were able to get no further the first day than Stadt , or Stoade , upon Stadt . the River Zwingh , a strong Town , belonging to the King of Sweden , where the Ships that come up the River pay Custom , and where the English Merchants had formerly their Residence , when they left Hamburg upon a Discontent .

Gluckstadt ▪ December the 11 th . we came by Gluckstadt ▪ belonging to the King of Denmark , where the Castle , the King's Palace , and the Church are handsom , and Anchored that night before the Mouth of the River Oast , which arises in Bremerland , and falls into the Elbe a mile from Brunsbüttel , on the other Holsatian shoar .

December the 12 th . we lost sight of the Northern shoar , and passed Cook 's Heaven , in full hopes to put out to Sea that night ; but about Three in the Afternoon we were becalmed a League and a half below it , where we were forced to come to an Anchor again , lest the strong Ebbe should set us on ground among the Sands : we lay that night between Thicksand on the North , and Newark on the South , right over against a Light house .

December the 13 th . the wind turning Westerly , and blowing hard , we returned to Cook 's Haven , and came to Anchor . Here I came ashoar , and went up the Land to the Fort in this place belonging to the City of Hamburg : It is a high square Work , with a double Ditch , and and some Vessels come up to the Fort ; but the Ditch or Channel which comes thither out of the Elbe , is dry at low water . The Town is called Reutsbüttel , not far from the Lands end . Two or three days after , with a cold North-East-wind , we set sail for England . Coming out of the Elbe , we were all the Afternoon in sight of an Island , called Heilige-landt , Heil●ge-landt ▪ or Holy-land , belonging to the Duke of Holstein , which being very high Land , is to be seen at a good distance , and is of excellent use to direct and guide Ships into the Mouth of the Elbe , without which they would be at a great loss , the Country about that Rivers Mouth being all very low Land .

Heiligeland is a small Island , having about two thousand Inhabitants , and six or seven small Vessels belonging to it , which are imployed a great part of the year in bringing Lobsters and other Fish to London or Quinborough , the Inhabitants living most upon Fish . We bore out to Sea all night , and the next day made towards the Land again , and sailed in sight of Schiemoniekeoghe , Amelandt , and Schelling : in the Evening we saw the Lights at the Vly and Texel ; when we were near the Land , we were much troubled with the Frost and cold Weather , and less when we were off at Sea . The next day we had a fair wind , and made such way , that in the Evening we took down our Sails , and let the Vessel drive , not being willing to deal with the shoar in the night . The next morning we soon discovered the North foreland covered with Snow and came to an Anchor in Margaret ▪ Road , where the wind growing very high , we rode it out for two days and two nights , and came safe on shoar ( praised be God ) upon Christmas-day morning .

Now having made so long a walk in Germany , I must confess I returned with a better opinion of the Country , than I had before of it ; and cannot but think it very considerable in many things . The Rivers thereof are noble , and seem to exceed those of France and Italy . Of the Rivers of Italy , the Padus or Po , is the most considerable , which notwithstanding , hath no very long course , before it runs into the Adriatick Sea . And Italy being divided by the Appennine-bills , runing from West to East , the Rivers which arise from either side , cannot be long , neither on the South-side , before they run into the Mediterranean , as the Arno , Garigliano , and others : Nor on the North side , before they run into the Adriatick , or the Po.

The chief Rivers of France , as the Loyre , the Seine , the Rhosne , and the Garonne , I cannot but highly commend , having passed upon them for divers days . There are also four great Rivers in Germany ; the Danube , the Rhine , the Elbe , and the Oder , but none of France seem comparable unto the Rhine and Danube . France having the Sea upon the North , the West , and the two large Provinces of Languedoc , and Province upon the Mediterranean Sea , hath the opportunity of Noble Cities and Seaports : But some doubt may be made , Whether any thereof do exceed Hamburg , Lubeck , and Dantzick .

The great number of populous , large , and handsome Cities , doth afford great content unto a Traveller in Germany ; for besides about Sixty six free Imperial Cities , there are many more of good note belonging to particular Princes , and divers highly priviledged . And surely a true Estimation of the Cities and Towns of these days , cannot be duly made from the Accounts and Descriptions thereof lest an hundred years since or more , for since those times , Buildings have been better modelled and ordered ; Fortifications and Out-works more regularly contrived ; Convents and Publick Houses more neatly and commodiously built ; and the fair Colleges and Churches of the Jesuites , which are now to be seen in most , do much set off the Beauty of great Places . Every where we meet with great and populous Towns Villages ; Castles , Seats of the Nobility , Plains , Forests , and pleasant Woods . And besides the satisfaction we may have from Objects above ground , we may find no small content in the wonders thereof under it , in Mines , Minerals almost of all sorts , of Gold , Silver , Copper , Iron , Tinn , Lead , Quicksilver , Antimony , Coal , Salt , Sulphur , Cadmia , and others , where there are also singular Artificers and Workmen , in the several Artifices thereof . Conversation with the People is easie , they behaving themselves without much Formality , and are plain dealing and trusty , so that a Traveller needs not to be so sollicitous and heedful of what he hath , as in some other Countries , which are esteemed of greater Civility . The Women are generally well-complexioned , sober , and grave , and they have not yet learned the custom of their Neighbours of France and Holland , to admit of being saluted by Men : faithful to their Husbands , and careful in the affairs of their Houses .

They make good provision against the cold of their Country , by sleeping between two Feather-beds and Stoves .

The common Stoves in Inns , wherein there are for the most part several Companies eating , drinking , and in the night sleeping , are convenient , considering the great cold , or at least tolerable ; but they being rooms close shut up , the smell of the meat , and especially of Cabbage , an usual Dish amongst them , makes them unpleasant , so that sometimes I preferred the course of hot Countries , while I called to mind , that in Province , and Italy we drank frozen Julebs , which we dissolved with the heat of our hands ; slept upon a sheet , on the outside of the Bed , with all the Windows of the Chamber open ; and as we sate at dinner , there was a Fann in the middle of the Room , hanging over our Heads , about two yards broad , which with a string was pulled backward and forward to cool us , and divers had Pans filled with Snow , to cool the sheets when they went into their Beds .

Germany is a great Hive of men , and the mighty destruction of men made by the last German wars , and by the Plague is so repaired , that it is scarce discernible . They are fruitful , and full of Children : They are not exhausted by Sea , Colonies sent forth , or by peopling American Countries ▪ but they have some consumption by wars abroad , when they be at peace at home : few wars being made in other parts of Europe , wherein there are not some Regiments of Germans ; the People being naturally Martial , and persons well descended , very averse from a Trading course of Life .

While I read in Tacitus of the old barbarous and rude State of Germany , how poorly they lived , that they had their Houses at a distance from one another ; how ignorant they were in Arts ; and it was doubted whether their Country afforded Mines ; that they lived by exchange of things , making little or no use of money , and the like , I may justly wonder to behold the present advance and improvement in all commendable Arts , Learning , Civility , splendid and handsome Cities and Habitations , and the general face of things incredibly altered since those ancient times ; and cannot but approve the expression of a Learned Man , though long since , That if Ariovistus , Civilis , and those old famous men of Germany , should revive in their Country again , and look up to Heaven , beholding the Constellations of the Bears , and other Stars , they might probably acknowledge that these were the same Stars which they were wont to behold ; but if they should look downward , and well view the face of all things , they would imagine themselves to be in a new World , and never acknowledge this to have been their Country .

A JOURNEY FROM COLEN IN GERMANY TO LONDON .

DUring the Treaty of Peace at Colen in the year 1673. between the Vnited States of the Netherlands , the King of Great Britain , and the French King ; many English Gentlemen having accompanied their Excellencies , the Lords Ambassadors and Plenipotentiaries in their Journey , had a desire also to view some of the Neighbouring Territories , and to divertise themselves during the heat of the Summer , at the Spaa , the Baths of Aken , and other places . Having therefore , in order to our Journey , obtained a Pasport for our Safety from Count Blondel , one of the Spanish Plenipotentiaries , and from their Excellencies Sir Joseph Williamson , and Sir Leoline Jenkins , we left Colen on Monday the Fourth of July , and upon the Road overtook my Lord of Peterborough , who had been at Dusseldorp at the Duke of Newburg's Court , and went afterwards into Italy to Modena , and brought over the present Queen of England . We dined at a small walled Town called Berckem , which some think to be a name corrupted from Tiberiacum , where we stayed a great part of the Afternoon , to accommodate an unlucky Accident which happened : A Servant of one of the English Gentlemen having casually shot a Horse , which belonged to a Commander under the Duke of Newburg , lying at that time with a party of Horse at this Town , so that we travelled in the Evening through the Woods , and came late to a place called Steinstrasse , and the next day morning we went to Juliers .

Juliers . Gulick , or Juliers , is a small Town by the River Roer , but very ancient , and called by the Romans , Juliacum , conceived to have been founded by Julius Caesar ; the Seat sometimes of the Dukes of Gulick , before the uniting hereof with Cleve ; and since the dissolution of that Estate , possessed by the Vnited Provinces ; and then again by the Spaniards ; but at present is in the hands of the Duke of Newburg . It being agreed at the conclusion of Peace between the Spaniards and the Hollanders , That the Marquess of Brandenburg should have Marck and Cleve , and the Duke of Newburg , Gulick and Berg. This is a handsome well fortified Town , the Streets streight , and the Houses of Brick . The Cittadel consists of four Bastions , of a regular Fortification ; within which is the Princes Palace . The Piazza in the Town is handsome ; and the whole considerable for its beauty and strength .

Aken . July the 5 th . we came to Aken , or Aquisgranum , five Leagues distant from Gulick ; the French call it Aix la Chapelle , from a Chappel in the great Church , much visited by Pilgrims from many parts ; and famous for the great number of Reliques preserved therein . When the Romans made War upon the Germans , they possessed themselves of divers places between the Rhine and Maes . And Granus , a noble Roman , being sent into these parts of Gallia Belgica , about the year of our Lord Fifty three , discovered among the Woods and Hills these hot Springs , which to this day are highly celebrated in many parts of Europe ; who a●terwards made use of them , and adorned them after the manner of the Roman Baths , and built a noble Habitation near them ; part of which the Inhabitants would have still to be standing , retaining the name of Turris Grani , an old Tower at the East-end of the Town-house ; a noble Antiquity : But the manner of its building gives suspicion it cannot be so old . Hence these Thermae from their Discoverer have been named Aquae Graniae , and came to be frequented ; and the Town of Aquisgrane built and flourished , till Attila , the King of the Huns , or Hungarians , destroyed it .

About four hundred years after , Charles the great riding out a hunting in these parts , as he passed through the Woods , his Horses Foot strook into one of these Hot-springs , near which he also took notice of the Ruines of ancient Palaces and Buildings long before forsaken ; and being still more and more delighted with the pleasant Situation of the place , and conveniency of these hot Rivolets , he renewed and adorned the Baths , built his Royal Palace near them : and appointed that the King of the Romans should be crowned with an Iron Crown here as with a Silver one at Milan , and a Gold one at Rome . He also built a noble Collegiate Church , dedicated to the blessed Virgin , in the presence of many Princes and Bishops , in the year 804 , and endowed it with Revenues for the maintainance of Canons , who lived together in a College at first , but at present separately in the manner of Probends . He built also the old or inward Wall of the City , so that it flourished till the year 882. at which time it was again ruined by the Fury of the Normans , and the Emperors Palace burnt to the ground . This City , besides these Devastations from the Irruptions of the Huns and Normans , hath been divers times since destroyed by Fire ; as in the year 1146. which loss it overcame in such manner , that Twenty six years after , it recovered not only its former greatness , but was so much increased , that the large outward Wall was built by the command of the Emperor Frederick the First .

In the year 1224. happened another great Fire , in which , not only the Buildings , but many of the Inhabitants perished . And the Roof of the Church was burnt in another Fire 1236. And now of late , for it is not long since , it hath recovered its losses by the Fire in the year 1656. when twenty Churches and Chappels , and about five thousand private Houses were destroyed .

The Town-house , or Senate-house , was built 1353. being all of Free-stone , handsomly adorned with the Statues of the Emperors . The first and second Story of this Building is divided into Chambers ; but the highest is all one entire Room or Hall , 162 Foot long , and 60 Foot broad . It is well painted in divers parts by Amisaga , : Two Pieces of whose drawing are much esteemed here ; one of the Resurrection , and another of Charles the Great , giving the Charter to the City of Aken . Here the Emperors , at the time of their Coronation , used to keep their Feasts , together with the Electours & other Princes . The Roof is supported by four Pillars ; through the middle of which , the smoak of all the Chimneys of this Building , is by a handsom contrivance conveyed away .

Over against this House , in the middle of the Piazza , is a Fountain , considerable both for largeness and neat structure , contrived by a great Artist , Gerard Coris : where four Springs perpetually empty themselves from above into a large Bason of Copper , of thirty Foot Diameter ; from whence again it descends by six Pipes into a Cistern of Stone , handsomly engraved , and passes to many other Fountains in the Town . On the top of this Fountain stands a large Statue of Charles the Great , Patron of this City , made of brass , and gilded over . He is in Armour , and looks towards Germany . About the edges of the great brass Bason is this Inscription .

Hic aquis per Granum Principem quendam Romanum , Neronis & Agrippae fratrem inventis , calidorum fontium Thermae , à Principio constructae . Postea verò per D. Carolum Magnum Imp. constituto ut locus hic sit caput & regni sedes trans Alpes , renovatae sunt , quibus Thermis hic gelidus fons influxit olim quem nunc demum hoc aeneo vase illustravit S. P. Q. Aquisgranensis , Anno Domini 1620.

The Church of our Lady , built by Charles the Great , is of an odd Figure . At the West-end is a Steeple adorned with divers Pyramids ; and on the top a large Globe and Cross . From hence , higher much than the Church , passes a Gallery , supported by a large Arch , to a Cupola near the middle of the Church . At the East-end is also a small Turret or Lanthorn . The inside of the whole is adorned with Marble Pillars of divers sorts , Pillars of brass , gilded with Statues , brass Doors and Partitions , and much Mosaick work .

In the middle of the Church , where Charles the Great was buried , hangs a very large Crown , given to this Church by the Emperor Frederick the First . This Crown is made of silver and brass gilt , adorned with sixteen little Towers , and eight and forty Statues of silver , of about a Foot high , and thirty two which are lesser . Between these stand eight and forty Candlesticks to receive the Lights burnt here upon Festivals .

Of these large Crowns I have seen at Colen , and other parts ; and it hath been an ancient Ornament in Churches . The Greeks have a Crown , or large Circle much like this , in the middle of most of their best Churches ; on which they hang many Oestrich Eggs , and the Pictures of the Apostles and Saints . The Turks do likewise imiate this in their Mosques , but instead of Pictures , place Lamps .

Frederick the First took up the Body of Charles the Great out of its Sepulchre in the middle of the Church , and afterwards buried it again ; partly in a silver Coffin under the Altar of the Quire , and partly near the Wall of the old Building , covering it with the same Tomb-stone , as before ; which is here reported to have been first taken from the Tomb Rel●cks . of Julius Caesar . It is of white Marble , and hath the Figure of Proserpina upon it . Out of this Tomb of Charles the Great , were taken up a great number of Reliques and considerable Rareties , which he had got together in his life time ; some of them given him by Aaron King of Persia , by the Patriarch of Constantinople , and others ; divers of which are still preserved here : and these following we had the opportunity to see . Some of the blessed Virgins hair . One ring or link of the Chain with which St. Peter was chained in Prison . The Head of Charles the Great . The bones of his Arm. His Sword which the Emperors wear at the time of their Coronation . The Picture of the Virgin Mary , with our Saviour in her Arms , embossed upon a Jaspis , done by St. Luke , hanged about the Neck of Charles the Great , and so found in his Tomb. A Noble Manuscript of the Gospels found in the same Tomb. Charles the Great 's Horn which he used when he went ahunting . His Crucifix made out of the wood of the Cross . Our Saviour's Girdle of Leather , with the Seal of Constantine , the Great at each end . A piece of the true Manna . Some of the Bones and Blood of St. Stephen richly enchased , upon which the Emperors are sworn at their Inauguration . A piece of one of the Nails of the Cross . An Agnus Dei sent from the Pope to Charles the Great ; & many other Reliques . Here is also the Tomb of the Emperor Otho the Third , in black Marble , who in the year 1000 , first constituted the Electors of Germany . The manner of making of Brass .

Near to this City are many sorts of Minerals found ; as Lead-ore , the Sulphur , and Vitriol-stone , Iron , Coal , and Cadmia , or Lapis Calaminaris : With this latter we saw them make Brass or multiply Copper , in this manner . They take calcined Cadmia , or Calmey , as they call it , Copper from Sweden , and the melted dross of both ; to twenty eight pounds of Copper they put an hundred pound of Calmey : They put first into very large Crucibles , some old pieces of brass and slacken , or the dross , and afterwards the Calmey and Copper , and let them stand in the Furnace twelve hours ; after which , they put eight Crucibles full into one , and let what will run over , the best sinking always to the bottom ; and then cast it into a Frame made of stone , bordered with bars of Iron ; and run it into brass Plates , which are afterwards cut in pieces with large Cissors . The Baths of Aken .

The hot Baths , are very much frequented at present . Within the inward Walls are three convenient ones : The Emperors Bath , the Little Bath , and the Bath of St. Quirinus . The Emperors Bath is in the same place , and fed with the same Springs with that in which formerly Charles the Great took much delight , and frequently used to swim therein ; in which exercise sew were more expert than himself ; and spent the latter end of his days here , and would often invite to the Bath , not only his Sons , but his Nobles , his Friends and Guards ; so as it was customary to Bath a hundred together in those days . But now they are divided into lesser Partitions . The Emperors Bath having five Bathing Rooms ; and the Little Bath which comes out of it , three . These are reckoned to be Nitro-Sulphureous ; and arise so hot , that they let them cool twelve hours before they use them . From under a great round Stone which covered a Well , in which there were some of these Hot Springs , I saw Brimsto●e , hard , above an inch thick , and Salt-peter , and a petrefied Substance finely variegated , taken out .

Besides these , near unto the inward Wall of the City , there are Baths which are not so hot as the former , esteemed to be Sulphureo-nitrous : The smell of them is some-what offensive , and the water in the Cisterns not transparent . The first is the Bath of St. Cornelius , which hath two Receptacles . The second the Rose Bath , so called from Mr. Rose , a The hot Fountain . Citizen of Aken , who built it . The third Compus Badt , or the Poor man's Bath . Of this sort of warm Water there is also a Fountain , much resorted to and drank of every morning in the Summer for many Chronical The Baths of ●orset . Diseases . About a Furlong out of the South-gate of Aken , is a Village called Porcetum , or Borset , from the great number of wild Hogs , which formerly frequented that place ; in which are many Hot Springs upon both sides of a little Rivolet , and let into Houses , where they are distributed into several Baths of Stone . There are fourteen of these Houses , and twenty eight Baths ; the Baths holding ordinarily about fifty Tuns of Water , each of them : the Water is clear and pleasant , without any offensive smell ; excessive hot when it comes first out of the Ground , hotter than the hottest of Aken , and is left to cool about eighteen hours before they use it . They use also an Instrument of Wood , pierced with many holes , to help to cool them sooner , or to stir the Water when any one goes in , whereby he is not so sensible of the heat . There are many cold Springs rise near these hot ones , whereby they might be tempered ; and surely the quantity of the hot Water being so great , no place might be made more delightful , nor no Baths more Noble . The Turks in our times , do most of any Nation beautifie their Baths , and render them serviceable to their Health and pleasure .

In Austria at Baden , the Sawer Bath is built after the Turkish manner , with a Cupola over it : and if any one hereafter shall build or beautify these , they will yield to very few in Europe . At present most of them are of a square Figure , of about five or six yards over ; and the Houses in which they are , very near one another . The first House hath the name of the Ladies Bath ; the second is the Snake ; the third and fourth the Sword ; the fifth the Golden Mill ; the sixth the Fool ; the seventh the Cock ; the eight the Great Bath ; the ninth the Fountain ; the tenth the Crab ; the eleventh the World Inverted ; the twelfth the Glass ; the thirteenth the Angel ; and the fourteenth the Rose . There is also another in the open Air , called the Poor man's Bath . In the Street is a Well or Fountain of these Hot-springs , of as great a heat as any I have seen ; perpetually boyling or bubling . But of all these Baths Dr. Blondel and Dr. Didier have written so particularly , as I A Mine of La●is Calaminaris . need not to add any thing more , and particularly of their Uses .

Within two Leagues of Aken , in the Country of Limbourg , is a Mine of Lapis Calaminaris , which we went to see having a Corporal and eight Musquetiers for our Security to pass the Wood. This Mine lies over against the Castle of Einenberg . As soon as I had delivered a Letter to Mr. John Franck , Comptroller of the Mine for his Catholick Majesty , he went along with us , to shew us the manner how the Cadmia grows in the Earth , and other Curiosities . This Mine having been wrought Three hundred years , and being one of the most remarkable of that kind , it may not be impertinent to set down some particulars concerning it . It is about eighteen or nineteen Fathoms deep , lying all open like a Chalk Mine , of an Oval Figure ; they digg at present in several places , and the best Calmey lies between the Rocks , in the deepest part of the Mine : They have now found an excellent Vein so placed , of eleven or twelve Foot thick , which they digg out with Pick-axes , with some difficulty , by reason that the Lapis Calaminaris is very hard . The colour of this Stone is of a dark yellow and red , and hath Veins of natural Brimstone mixed thinly in it . The Veins of the Lapis Calaminaris , being so large , they follow them not only in one place , but digg over one anothers heads , and frame their work into the shape of large Stayrs , and one throws up what another diggs , and so upward till they lade the Carts with it . Some of the Cadmia is blackish and dark brown ; and there are Fluores between the Cavities of the Stone handsomly figured , but most of a blackish colour . The works about the Mine the most remarkable , are these : 1. An Overshot-wheel in the Earth , which moves the Pumps to pump out the water ; and this not placed in the Mine but on one side of it , and a passage cut out of the Mine to the bottom of it , by which the Mine is drained ; and another passage or cuniculus , out of the place where the wheel is turned , which lets out the water which turns the wheel , and also the water which comes out of the Mine into the Neighbouring Valley . 2. The washing of the Ore or Stone , which they perform , as at other works , by letting the water over it , and stirring it ; and this they do wheresoever they begin to work near the Superficies of the Earth , for there the Calmey is less , and more mixed with Clay and Earth : but the most remarkable work is the calcining of the Ore ( for all our Lapis Calaminaris of the Shops is the calcined Calmey ) and it is worth the seeing ; for they place Faggots in a handsome order first , and cover a large round Area with them , of about Forty or Fifty yards Diameter , upon which they place Charcoal in as good an order , till all be covered and filled up a yard from the ground ; then they place ranks of the largest Stones of Calmey , and after them smaller , till they have laid all on ; and then by setting fire to the bottom , the fire comes to each stone , and all is handsomly calcined . They make Calmey also about two English miles from Bleyberg in Carinthia , They make it after this manner , They take the Ore out of the Mine , sometimes they wash it , and sometimes not , they burn it as they do Rost . Then they take it , and beat it in pieces with a mallet ; They choose the best of it , and throw away the dross , the whitest is commonly the best . From hence we went to Limburg , meeting with divers Souldiers upon the Road , who desired money of us , but did not attempt any thing against us , we being many of us together in Company .

Limburg . Limburg is seated upon a high Rock , which overlooks all the Country , and a little River runs almost round it at the bottom . The Avenue to the Town on the North-side is difficult all along upon the edge of the Rock ; and the Gate of the Town , over which is the Governor's House , spreads it self from one side of the Rock to the other , and locks up the passage . Here we shew our Passports from the Spanish Plenipotentiaries ; and in the Afternoon had a pleasant Journey to the Spaa In the way we saw where the French Army had passed the Country towards Metz , having lain about a Fortnight at Vichet , after the taking of Maestreicht .

Spà . Spà is a neat Village in the Forest of Ardenna , seated in a bottom , encompassed on all sides with Hills , and on the North with steep Mountains . So that it happening to rain while we were there , the place was , in some hours time filled with water , the Hay washed out of the Meadows , the falls in the River made even , and Pohunt , one of the Mineral Fountains , was drowned . There was not much Company when we were there , although it were in the hottest time of the year , which is most seasonable for drinking the waters ; by reason of the wars , and the danger of coming through the Country to them . But in Spà it self all people are free from danger , all the Neighbouring Princes protecting it , and would count it very dishonourable to disturb a place which by the virtue of its Mineral Springs , is so beneficial to Mankind . These Waters are not only drunk upon the place , but are also sealed up in Bottles , and sent into many parts of Europe . And Mr. Coquelet , at whose House we lodged , told me that he sent it as far as Saragossa in Spain : and that he had at that time Thirty thousand Bottles empty , and waited for a good season to fill them , which is the hottest , dryest time of the Summer , and the hardest Frost in Winter ; at which times the water is strongest , sparkling , and brisk . The chiefest of these Mineral Fountains are these , Geronster , Saviniere , Tonnelet , and Pohunt .

Geronster . Geronster is in the middle of a thick Wood , about an English mile and a half Southward of the Spà ; it is the strongest of any , and the best adorned , being built up with stone , and a Pavilion over it , supported with four handsom stone Pillars . There is a green place cleared in the Wood near to it , and a little House for the Patients to warm themselves in , early in the morning , or in cold weather . The Arms of Sr. Conrade Bourgsdorff , who adorned this Fountain , are placed over , on two sides : and on the other two this Inscription in French , and High-dutch , in a handsom Oval .

Le Reverendissime & Excellentissime Sr Sr Conrade Bourgsdorff , Grand Chamberlan , & premier Conseiller d'Estat , Colonel & Gouverneur General de tous les Forts & Forteresses du Serenissime Electeur de Brandebourg dans son Estat Electoral , Grand Prevost des Eglises Cathedrales d' Halberstadt & Brandebourg , Chevalier de l'Ordre de St. Jean , & Commandeur du Baillage de Lagow , de gros Machenau , Golbeck , Bouckow , Oberstorff , &c. &c. &c.

This Fountain smells very strong of Brimstone , and causes vomiting in a great many , yet passes chiefly by Vrine , as they do all ; and strikes a purple with Nut-galls more inclining to red , than the waters of Tunbridge . The Sediment is of a light blew in the Fountain , but of a dark , dirty red every where else . Not far from this is another large Spring in the Wood much like it , but not as yet built and beautified .

Saviniere . Saviniere is another Fountain , almost as far from the Spà Eastward , and built after the manner of a Tower : the Acidulae are not so strong as the former . There is another Fountain hard by this , almost the same , held to be particularly good for the Stone and Gravel .

Tonnelet . The third is Tonnelet , arising in the Meadow , and built up with stone : But being there are no Trees nor Shades about it , it is not so delightful as the others . And Henricus ab Heers in his Spadacrene saith that this is more nitrous than the rest , and causes such a coldness in the mouth and stomach , that few can drink of it .

Pohunt . The fourth is Pohunt , in the middle of the Town , from whence most of the water is drawn which is sent abroad , if no particular one be sent for . This was beautified with handsome Stone-work , by the Bishop of Liege , to whom this place belongs , and this Inscription set over it , Sanitati Sacrum . It is also called the Fountain of St. Remaclus , to whom it was dedicated ; and these Verses are likewise engraven upon it : Obstructum reserat , durum terit , humida siccat Debil fortificat , si tamen arte bibis .

Being at the Spà , we visited Franchimont one Afternoon ; passing through a thick Wood , there is an old Castle , and good Brimstone and The making of Brimstone . Vitriol works , the same Stone affording both ; and I presume may also make the Spà-water under ground , or at least be a principal Ingredient in it . We saw the manner here how they melted , and cast their Brimstone first into great Pails , the florid and clear parts remaining at the top and middle , the thick and more obscure subsiding and adhering to the bottom and sides , and is that which is sold for Sulphur Vivum . We saw also the manner of casting the Brimstone into Rolls , or Magdaleons : And near unto this place a smoaking , burning , little Hill , which is thus caused : They throw out the burnt Pyrites , out of which Brimstone hath been distilled , and the Vitriol drawn out by infusion , upon this Hill ; which consists all of the same matter , and ferments in time , grows hot , smoaks and burns perpetually , and withal drinks in a new Vitriol into its self .

From the Spà we crossed over to Frapont , a Village seated upon the pleasant River Vta , or Ourte , where we took Boat and went down a rapid Stream , yet one of the pleasantest I ever saw , winding and turning between many green Hills , in part of the Forest of Arduenna . We descended afterwards thirty or forty small Falls in a long Boat made on purpose . The Oar or Pa●dle being only a square piece of Board fixed to the end of a Pole , the Pole standing perpendicularly in the middle of it . The delightful River Vesa , or the Wesdret , soon met us , and joyning together , we fell down with them into the Maes near Liege . Upon the Banks of these Rivers all the Arms , Guns , and other Instruments are made , for which the Country of Liege is remarkable .

Liege Liege , Luick , Leodium , or Augusta Eburonum ; Learned Men think this City to be seated near that Vally , wherein two Legions of Julius Caesar , under Sabinus and Cotta , were destroyed by Ambiorix , chief Commander of the Eburones . It is seated upon the River Mosa , which entring with two Streams , makes some pretty Islands . Three other small Rivers arising in the Forest , of Ardenna , are also here received into the Maes , whereby they have plenty of Fish and other Conveniencies . The City is very populous , and so it hath been in former Ages , when as Charles Duke of Burgundy , sacked it , and destroyed an hundred thousand of the people .

It abounds with fair Churches , stately Convents , and Religious Foundations , richly endowed , so that it hath been called the Paradise of Priests , and is in that kind the most notable in all these parts . The Palace of the Bishop is a noble Fabrick , built by Cardinal Erardus , Bishop of Liege . The Cathedral bears the Name of St. Lambert , who being Bishop of Maestreicht was murdered by Dodo and others , about the year 622. The Sea was afterwards translated unto Liege by Hubertus , as it had been formerly from Tongres to Maestreicht , and the Body of St. Lambert removed unto this Church , which is at present very noble , being built of a reddish Stone , very much carved without , and handsomly adorned within . Between the Quire and Sacristy , is this Inscription in very large Letters :

D. O. M.

Intemeratae Virgini Mariae , Sancto Lamberto , Ecclesiae & Patriae Divis Tutelaribus , Maximilianus Henricus utriusque Bavariae Dux , Archiepiscopus & Elector Coloniensis , Episcopus & Princeps Leodiensis , Ernesti & Ferdinandi Bavariae Ducum , Episcoporum & Principum Leodiensium Nepos & Sucessor , in sui & Predecessorum memoriam Ponebat . MDCL VIII .

The Canons here are of great riches and power , and have the Election of the Bishop and Prince , who hath also had the Titles of Duke of Bouillon , Marquiss of Franchimont , and Count of Lootz and Hasbania . In the Coin of Maximilian , the present Elector of Colen and Bishop of Liege , I find this Inscription .

Maximilianus Henricus Dei gratiâ Archiepiscopus Coloniensis , Episcopus & Princeps Leodiensis , Supremus Bullonensis Dux .

Speutus the Bishop of Liege , bought the Principality of Liege of Godfrey of Bouillon , when he went to the Holy Land : And in the Treaty of Cambray , 1559. the possession of Bouillon , and precedency of Ti le , was granted to the Bishop of Liege , although at this time also the Houses of La Tour and Mark do bear the same .

Of the Parish Churches that of St. John , and of St. Servasius are fair . Of the Abbeys that of St. Jacob within the Town , and of St. Lawrence , built by Bishop Raginardus upon an Hill out of the Town , are noble . There is also a College of English Jesuites , well-seated upon a Hill , where the Garden is handsom , and the Dyals , made by Franciscus Linus , are worth the seeing : And an English Nunnery handsomly built . In the Church of the Gulielmites , out of the Town , lies the Body of our famous Country-man Sir John Mandeville , who , after he had travelled through many parts , took an affection unto this place , and here passed the remainder of his life , and whose Epitaph , and some Rareties of his , are still to be seen .

Bishop Notger , who was consecrated by St. Gereon , Arch-bishop of Colen , and died in the year 1007. built the walls of this City , and being Tutor to Otho the third , he found means very much to beautifie it , to repair and build divers Churches , and endow them with rich Revenues , and let the River Maes into the Town , which before ran upon one side of it .

As their Churches are fair and numerous , soo are their Bells and Chimes remarkable . In the Cathedral of St. Lambert there are eight large Bells , and twelve lesser ; and there is one so great , as it is said to require Twenty four men to ring it . In the Church of St. Paul the Bells and Chimes are considerable ; as also at St. Lawrence and the crossed Friars . It is also an University , and was so famous in former Ages , that they still take notice that at one time there have been Nine Sons of Kings , Twenty four Dukes Sons , Twenty nine of Counts , besides many of great Barons Students therein .

Their Speech here , as also at Spaw , is called Roman , and is a kind of old French , or Dialect of that Languag , a great part of which is made up of Latin , or Roman words : and they call the Neighbouring Language of the Dutch , Tuiscon . But many speak very good French . They have some Vineyards affording a small Wine . The Hills about furnish them with Quarries of good Stone , and of several kinds They have also divers Mines and Minerals , and great quantity of Pit-coal for Fire , in some places fetched deep out of the Earth , in others nearer the Surface : and in one place I saw them beginning to dig where they immediately found Coal . Their Pumps and Engines to draw out the water , are very considerable at these Mines ; in some places moved by Wheels , at above a Furlongs distance , to which they are continued by strong Wood-work , which moves backwards and forwards continually .

The Cittadel stands upon a Hill , and is of great Strength ; It was built to keep the City of Liege under Subjection . For 1649. there being some disturbances in the City , Ferdinand , the Elector of Colen , offering to come into the Town to appease it , was opposed by the Consul , Jacobus Hennet , who was soon after surprized and beheaded together with Bartholomaeus Rolandus ; the Consul having sworn the Elector should never come in whilst he were alive . And the Cittadel soon after was ordered to be built . The Bridges are handsom : that over the great Stream of the Maes is very broad and fair , and hath large Arches . From hence we could read the Elector's name upon the Cittadel , Maximilianus , although it were at a very great distance , the Letters were so large .

From Liege we had a pleasant passage down the Water to Maestreicht , passing by Argentau , a Castle seated upon a high Rock on the right side of the River , belonging then to the King of Spain , afterwards by Vichet in the half way , and then by Navagne , a strong Fort in the Maes , which commands the River , and at that time did the Spaniard service ; then by pleasant Rocks on our left hand , wherein many Cuts and passages have been digged till we came in sight of Maestreicht .

This Town having been a little before taken from the Vnited States by a sharp Siege , was full of French , and had a Garrison in it of about ten Thousand men ; and in the Market-place stood about Two hundred large Fieldpieces . We saw the places where they made their Batteries and their Mines , the Out-works were very numerous , and many of them undermined . Colonel Storff shew'd us a handsom Draught of all the Works , Approaches and Manner of taking of the Town .

A noble Quarry of Stone . About a quarter of a Mile out of the Town we went into the great Quarry of Stone , which is one of the noblest sure in the World . Between Padoa and Vicenza I had formerly seen the famous Cave of Custoza , or Cubola , said to be above Five hundred Fathoms in breadth , and Seven hundred in length , but this doth far surpass it : the Roof is very high and stately in most places , the Pillars not to be numbred , all very large ; we passed two miles under ground amongst them : No Labyrinth can be contrived more intricate , and yet all parts are uniform . The Floor all in a level , and the Roof in most places of the same height , and so much hath that uniform rule , which I suppose was set to those who first digged , and so hath successively been observed , added to the beauty of this place , that there is scarce any thing more noble . It put me in mind of the hundred chambers of Nero , which he caused to be made under Ground in the Rocks at Baiae . And the Water which we met with in one place , made me think of Nero's admirable Fish-pond , built in the like manner within the Earth . We came out again near to a Convent upon the Banks of the River , and returned by water to Maestreicht .

The next day we parted Company . Mr. Newton , Mr. Ettrick , Mr. Grove , Mr. Carlton , and Mr. Newcomb went for Aken and Colen ; Mr. Bates and Mr. Daston went up the River again to Liege , at which place , staying a day or two to find a convenience to pass to Brussels , we were nobly entertained at a Dinner with Venison , Wild-boar , and other Dishes , by that worthy Person and Learned Mathematician Franciscus Slusius , one of the great Canons of Liege , who also continued his high Civilities to us to the last Minute we stayed in Town .

Leaving Liege we soon came in sight of Tongres , or Tungrorum opidum , Tongres . the most ancient place in all these Countries . Ortelius would have it to be called of old Atuatuca : It was a strong hold before the coming of Julius Caesar into Gaul , and was afterwards made a Roman Station , and in process of time became so great , that Attila the Hun destroyed an hundred Churches in it , it being at that time a Bishops See , which in the year 498 St. Servasius removed unto Maestreicht . Many old Coins and Antiquities are still found here ; and part of an old Chappel , said to be built by St. Maternus , Disciple to St. Peter , is still remaining . When the King of France made his great inroad into the Low-Countries , 1672. he borrowed this Town of the Elector of Cologne , and then passed on to Maseick , where crossing the Country to the Rhine , by the sides of these great Rivers , Rhine and Maes , he made that notable Incursion , and quitted not Tongres till he had taken Maestreicht the year following . We dined this day at Borchloe , and lodged at St. Truyn , or St. Truden , a handsome little Town , so called from a Church and Abbey herein dedicated to that Saint .

The next day we dined at Tienen , or Tilmont , on the little River Geet , once one of the chief Towns in Brabant , but long since decayed . In these Plain Countries , in many places we saw small Hills , or Sepulchral Eminences of the Ground : And near unto the Walls of Tienen , are three very remarkable ones , said to be the Tombs of great Commanders . In the Evening we came to Lovain .

Lovain . Lovain is the chief City of that quarter of Brabant , which comprehendeth Arschot , Halen , and Judoigne ; an ancient and large City , pleasantly seated upon the River Dele ; it is of great Circuit , and the compass of the wall accounted above four miles about : but there are many void Spaces , Hills , Fields , and Gardens within it , which makes it very pleasant and delightful . There are herein divers good Buildings , Convents , and Churches : the chief whereof is the stately Church of St. Peter , the Convent of the Carthusians , the Hospital . The publick Palace or Senate-house is also Noble .

It is the great Vniversity of these parts , said to have had its beginning about 926. but endowed by John the Fourth , Duke of Brabant , and confirmed by Pope Martin the Fifth , 1425. There are forty three Colleges in it ; whe●eof the four chief are Lilium , Falco , Callrum , Porcus . Goropius Becanus , a Learned Man , and Native of Brussels , affirms , That no Vniversity in Italy , France , Germany , or Spain , is to be compared unto it for its elegant and pleasant Situation . The Vniversity is under the Government of a Rector , who is in great esteem and honour among them . This Vniversity hath produced many Learned Men : But neither the Buildings of the Colleges , nor their Endowments do equal those of our Vniversities , and the Situation thereof seems not to exceed that of Oxford .

We travelled from hence to Brussels , being most part of the way in the sight of the very high Tower of the Church of St. Rombald at Machlin .

Count Monterei was then Governour of the Low-Countries , and resided at Brussels , the ordinary Seat of the Governours of the Spanish Netherlands ; which City he had taken care to fortifie , and to make it more tenable , if it should be attempted by the French .

From Brussels we passed to Antwerp , where we were handsomely treated by Mr. Wauters and Mr. Hartop , and having visited some of our Friends , the next day we passed the River Schelde , and took Coach in the morning , travelling through a fruitful , plain , flat Country , set with rows of Trees in most places , and arrived in the evening at Ghent .

Ghent . Gaunt , Gandavum , or Ghent , is esteemed to be the greatest City , not only of Flanders , but of all the Low-Countries , and challenges a place amongst the greatest in Europe ; but at present it decreases and decays rather than encreases . And if Charles the Fifth were now alive , he could not put Paris into his Gant , a greater Glove would not fit that City , which is so much increased since his time . In Ghent are many noble Convents , among which the Jesuites is one of the fairest : There is a Cloister also of English Nuns . The Cathedral is stately , and the Tower belonging to it being very high , gives a prospect of a pleasant and fruitful Country round about it . There are divers Piazza's , large and fair ; in one of which stands a large gilded Statua of Charles the Fifth , Emperor and King of Spain , who was born in this City . The whole Town is generally well built , and the Streets are fair and clean . The Inhabitants hereof have been taken notice of to be extreamly given to Sedition , and for their sakes a great many other Cities in Europe are punished , and have in a manner totally lost their Liberties : For the Spaniards , to curb the Seditious humour of the People of Ghent , were put upon the Invention of building Cittadels in Cities , whereby a few Souldiers are able to suppress any Commotion , or beat down the Town , so that here I saw the first Cittadel that was built in Europe by Charles the Fifth : It is not large , and the Bastions little , and though of a Regular Figure , yet not so convenient as those of latter days , since that Art hath been improved .

From Ghent we passed by water about Twenty English miles to Bruges . Bruges , a very elegant large City , and formerly a place of very great Trade , being within three Leagues of the Sea ; so that from the tops of their highest Buildings , the Ships under Sail are visible , and at the same time a Fleet of Ships , and a large Territory of a fruitful , pleasant Country , comes under your eye . It is fortified with Works of Earth and deep Ditches . The Convents are numerous : The artificial Cuts of Water from this Town to all places , makes it of easie access ; and though it hath no Port , the Passage from hence to Ostend by water is short : And they are at present upon a Design of bringing Ships up to this City .

Ostend . Ostend is about Ten English miles from Bruges , seated upon the waves of the German Ocean , which wash it continually on one side : And they have now contrived it so , as to let the Sea in almost round the Town for a great space , whereby it is become much more strong and defensible than before . For when I looked upon it , and considered what it was when it was besieged by Arch-duke Albertus , and taken by Marquiss Ambrosius Spinola , 1604. with an honourable Surrender after three years Siege , I cannot but ascribe very much unto their Supplies from England , and the obstinate Valour of the Defendants , especially the English under Sir Francis Vere . Sluys being in the hands of the States of the Vnited Provinces , and Dunkirk under the French . The Spaniards possess no other Port in Flanders but this and Newport ; and this being the most considerable they are now making the Haven large , and are upon a considerable Work in order to the carrying of their Ships over into that Cut which goes from Ostend to Bruges , out of their Harbour , by the means of a very great Lock or Receptacle of Water , which is to communicate with both ; which , when it is finished , may be very advantageous to the Traffick , of the Spanish Netherlands . This Town stands very low , but the Streets are straight , large , and uniform

Newport . From hence I went all along upon the Sea-shoar to Newport , a handsom Town , with large fair Streets , but low built . There were then a great number of small Ships in the Harbour . This place is famous for the Battel of Newport , fought here by Albertus , and Count Maurice , wherein the Spanish Forces lost the day , and much of the honour of the Field was due unto the English under Sir Francis Vere ; since which time , although there hath been much bloud shed in these Quarters , yet there hath not been so considerable a Battel ever since , although the English had also the fortune to do great Service hereabout at a fight called the Battel of the Sandhils , when a part of the Army of French and English , which besieged Dunkirk , fought with the Spanish Forces by Newport , and overthrew them .

From Newport we put to Sea , sailing out of the Harbour , and intending for England ; but the wind being very high and contrary , after having been at Sea all the night , and had leisure to take notice of the great number of Sands upon that Coast , in the morning we put into Mardike , where at present there is only a Fort of Wood just above the High-water mark , with some few Guns mounted . The other Fort , more into the Land , being demolished .

Dunkirk . Dunkirk , is much increased of late , and the King of France hath not spared money , to render it considerably strong . He hath very near finished a noble Cittadel , begun by the English while this Town was in their possession , which hath the Sea on one side of it , the Haven on another , and the Sandhills towards the Land , which when the wind is at South-west , doth somewhat annoy it : To prevent which , the French have made divers Cuts and Channels through the Sands , into which the Sea entring , doth moisten and fix the Sand , so as they are not so apt to fly . And every Bastion is sprucely kept and covered within with green Turf . Beyond the old Wall of the Town , there are now great Works drawn , which encompass so large a space of Ground , that the Town is made bigger by half : And in this part stands the English Nunnery , and many handsom Buildings . The new Fortifications are very large ; and the Bastion towards the North the most stately . The Port is large and capable of receiving a gr●at number of Ships , but at low water it is almost dry ; and there are so many Sands before it , that at that time the Sea comes not in any depth within a mile of it .

From Dunkirk we travelled by Land to Graveling , where the Works are of Earth , large and high , the Church stately , the Streets broad , but Graveling . the Houses low , and at present not populous . The Marquis de Bel — fonds with the French and my Lord Ruterford with his Scotch , and English , came before Graveling , upon the sixteenth of August , 1658. and carried the place in twelve days time ; Don Christopher de Manguez yielding it upon the twenty eight , on the same terms that it was delivered up by the French to the Spaniards 1652.

From Graveling I came to Calais , from whence setting Sail in the morning , we came to Dover , and the same day to London .

A JOURNEY FROM VENICE TO GENOA .

I Travelled some years since , between Venice and Genoa , through many Countries of early Civility , seated in the middle of the temperate Zone , in a fruitful and happy Climate ; affording plentifully all Necessaries for Life ; and through Countries which have not only been considerable for their copious production of Corn , Fruit , Silk , Wine and Oyl , but also for having been very fortunate in all Ages , for bringing into the World Persons of great Fame and Renown , who have rendred this Tract of Earth more than ordinarily remarkable for great Actions in all times . The memory of which is still preserved not only in their Writings , but also in their splendid Buildings , and Antiquities ; though no parts have tasted more deeply of the dangerous variety of fortune , these having suffered the frequent Incursions of many fierce and warlike Nations . Having therefore formerly enjoyed such variety of observable Objects , I could not remember this Journey without some considerable satisfaction , especially having at the same time had the good luck to travel a great part of it with my worthy friends , Sir William Trumbull , Mr. Soames , Dr. Palman , Dr. James , and Mr. Dashwood , which makes me bold , upon the opportunity of this second Impression , to add further this short Account .

We passed from Venice to Padoa by water up the stream of the pleasant River Brent , having all day long Houses of Pleasure , and well built Palaces on each hand of us . We entered this River near Lizafusina , five Miles from Venice ; where formerly a Wheel , or Engine was placed , to convey the Vessels into the River . The Venetians having long since stopped up the entrance of the Brenta , lest that by the continual Descent of the Water , the Stream , and Channel might be diminished , lost , or altered ; and the passages for their Vessels rendred dangerous , or inconvenient ; but this is otherwise contrived at present , and four large Locks or Sostegni are made use of , both to keep up the water , and to facilitate the passage of the Vessels . These are placed at Stra , Dolo , Mira , and Moranzan , and are very remarkable , considering that the River in these places is locked up , and the Vessels which are to pass are brought in between great Gates ; and the water let in or out , as they have occasion to pass up or down the River .

Padoa . The landing-place at Padoa is handsomly set off with stone steps , continued for a long space , along the side of the River , after the manner of the landing-place at Ghent , and some other elegant Cities of the Low Countries . The outward Wall is strong , being well fortified according to the Modern Rules of Fortification ▪ in the time of Leonardo Loredaro , Duke of Venice ; and to render it more strong , the Rivers of Brenta and Bacchiglione are let into the Town Ditch . The inward Wall is now most considerable for its Antiquity , and for retaining the name of its Founder ; it being still called Antenor's Wall : It contains a far less space of ground than the former , Padoa being built in this respect like to the City of Aix la Chapelle , or Aken , having own Town within another .

That Patavium , or Padoa is one of the oldest Cities of Europe , built presently after the Trojan War , is confessed by Ancient Writers ; and so generally believed of old , that Livy lays it down for the Ground-work of his History ; beginning in this manner , Jam primum omnium satis constat , Troja capta , &c. i. e.

In the first place it is sufficiently manifest that Troy being taken , the Grecians executed the utmost of their rage upon the Trojans , Aeneas and Antenor only excepted , by reason of their ancient friendship with the Greeks ; and in respect that they had always endeavoured to make Peace , and restore Helena . After various fortunes , Antenor brought a great Number of the Heneti , who having lost their King , Pylemon at the Wars of Troy , and being driven out of Paphlagonia , by a Faction , were now seeking new Seats and a Captain to lead them ; and came along with them to the bottom of the Adriatick Gulf , drove out the Eugenians who inhabited between the Sea and Alpes , and established the Trojans and the Heneti in those Countries .

Martial also saluting Flaccus , a Padoan Poet , calls him , Flacce , Antenorei spes & Alumine Laris.

And that you may more firmly give credit to it , you may further also have the authority of a Goddess for it ; for Venus is introduced expostulating in these terms with Jupiter , in the behalf of Aeneas .

Virgil. Aeneid . Quem das finem , Rex magne , malorum ? Antenor potuit , mediis elapsus Achivis , 1. Illyricos penetrare sinus , atque intima tutus Regna Liburnorum , et fontem superare Timavi ; Vnde per ora novem vasto cum murmure montis It mare proruptum , et pelago premit arva sonanti : Hic tamen ille urbem Patavi , sedesque locavit Teucrorum , et genti nomen dedit , armaque fixit . i. e. What time , great King , shall terminate our woes ? Safe could Antenor break through all his foes , Pierce to the bottom of the Illyrian bay , View Kingdoms , where Liburnian Princes sway ; Pass the nine mouths of fierce Timavus waves , Which rores upon the hills and o'er the valleys raves , And there could fix ; and on that foreign ground , Great Padoa's tow'rs ▪ for after ages found ; New name the people , and free from all alarms Hang up , in peace , his consecrated arms .

In those days when the art of Navigation was but in its infancy , and the Mariners very unwillingly parted with the sight of land , Antenor was forced to keep close , and creep along the Coast of Peloponnesus , and Epirus , and then sail by the Illyrian , and Liburnian Shoars , which are very uneven and troublesom to deal with , being full of Creeks , unsafe Bays , and Rocks ; besides very many Islands of various shapes ▪ Whereas if he had crossed over to the Italian coast , he had had a nearer voyage , and sayled with pleasure all along an even , bold , brave shoar .

The people of Padoa , are well pleased with the thoughts of their Ancient founders and Progenitors , and they still preserve the tomb of Antenor , near to which at present stands the Church of Saint Lawrence ▪ and in their publick shows they will still be representing something of Troy , and the old Trojans , and in one place I saw a horse of wood , about twenty foot high in imitation of the old Trojan horse ; but , I suppose , nothing near so big as the first original : Yet when I consider that above eleven hundred years after the destruction of Troy , when Towns and Buildings were very much amplified and improved , Pompey coming in Triumph , could not enter even the great Triumphal gates of Rome it self in a chariot drawn by Elephants , an Animal that seldom or never comes to be so high as this Horse , it may well be supposed that they could not have received , even this poor model of the first great one into the old town of Troy without pulling down their walls .

The T●mb● of Antenor .

The Buildings at Padoa , both publick , and private , are very considerable ; for most of the City is built upon Arches , making handsom Portico's or cloysters on each side of the street ; after the manner of the houses in the Piazza of Convent Garden , which at all times afford a good defence against the Sun , and Rain , and many of the houses are painted on the outside , with very good History-Painting in Fresco ; their Churches are fair , and divers well adorned ; The Domo or Cathedral Church is large , seated near the middle of the City ; endowed , and mightily enriched by the Emperor Henry the fourth ; whose Empress Berta lies buried here . The Revenues of this Church at present are reckoned to amount to a hundred thousand Crowns a Year ; and besides the Monuments of many eminent persons , they preserve here the body of St. Daniel , of Cardinal Pileo da Pratta , and of Cardinal Francesco Zabarella .

St. Anthony's Church at Padoa . The Church of St. Antonio is visited by persons far and near , and the exquisite Design , artificial Carving in Marble , the handsom Quire and rich Ornaments make it worth the seeing . The top of the Church is made up of six Cupola's covered with lead ; the Chappel of St. Antonio is nobly set out with twelve marble pillars , and a rich roof . Between the Pillars are carved the miracles of this Saint , who lies interred under the Altar , upon which stand seven Figures made by Titian Aspetti , a good statuary of Padoa , and behind the Altar there is a most excellent Basso relievo done by Sansovinus , Tullius Lomburdus , and Campagna Verone●sis . Over against the Chappel of St. Antonio stands the Chappel of Saint Faelix ; and his tomb nobly wrought , with coloured marble , and the whole splendidly adorned , with the paintings of the highly celebrated Giotto . The chief Reliques in this Church are , the Tongue and Chin of St Antonio , a Cloth dipped in the blood of our Saviour , Three thorns of his Crown , and a piece of the wood of the Cross , some of the hair and milk of the blessed Virgin , and some of the blood of the marks of St. Francis . Before the Front of the Church there is a handsom brass Statue on Horse-back , representing the great Venetian General Gattemela . St. Ant●nio , lived six and thirty years , dyed upon the thirteenth of June , 1231 , and was canonized by Pope Gregory the ninth in the City of Spoleto , 1237.

The convent of the black Monks of St. Benedict may compare with most in Italy ; and their Church dedicated to Santa Giustina , built by Palladio , is one of the fairest in Europe . Saint Giustina was a Virgin , and Martyr , daughter to Vitaliano of this City ; she suffered Martyrdom in the time of Maximianus the Emperor . In this Church there are still preserved , as they say , the body of St. Luke , the Evangelist , of St. Matthias , the Apostle , of two of the Innocent Children , of Prosdochimus , the converter of these Countries to the Christian Faith , and first Bishop , of Padoa ; of Maximus their second Bishop , and of Santa Giustina . The Front of this Church looks into a spacious place called Prato della Valle , where the Gentlemen meet in their Coaches in the Evening , for their pleasure . In a handsom room or burying place on the South-side of this Church is a round old red marble stone , upon which the heads of many Martyrs were cut off ; and near to it a fine white marble Well , called Pozzo d' Martiro , or the Martyr's Well , a place of great Devotion .

Where the Temple of Juno stood in old time , there is now built a handsom Church , dedicated to St. Augustin , wherein are divers Monuments of the Family of Carrara , the Tomb of Charlotta , daughter to James King of Cyprus , and of Petrus Aponensis , a great Philosopher .

Il Ponte Molino , where there are thirty Water-Mills together , and the Castello delle munitioni , both built by Ezzellin , are worth the seeing . La Corte del Capitanio is splendid , and was the Palace of the Carraresi . The Palazzo della Regione , where the Courts of Justice are held , is very large , beautiful , and highly considerable , both without , and within ; being built of Marble with rows of Pillars without , and within there are Heads and Inscriptions for divers eminent Persons of this City ; the length hereof is 256 Foot , and the breadth 86 without any Pillar or support in the middle .

The University of Padoa , was founded in the Year 1220. by the Emperor Frederick the Second ; and the Schools are fair , and large , containing one Quadrangle , with rows of Pillars above and below ; and besides handsom Schools on every side , there is a very convenient Anatomical Theater ▪ The Physick Garden is large , of a round Figure , walled about , and well stored with Plants . The Prefects hereof have been Men of Note , as Aloysius Mundella , Aloysius Anguillara , Melchior Guilandinus , Jacobus Antonius Cortusus , Prosper Alpinus , and Joannes Veslingius .

The Arena , or old Amphitheater at Padoa , is an Antiquity very remarkable ; and the remains of some of the Arches are to be seen still in the Gardens backward ; but the Arena it self , and the whole Podium , are preserved intire , free , and empty : And at one end thereof , there is built a handsom Palace , the Front of which looks directly into the open Amphitheater , and is a portion of an Oval Figure , and the whole area , or Arena of the Amphitheater serves for the court to it , in such manner , that the entrance being now at the end , directly opposite to the house , the handsome prospect of it , and the clear Avenue to it , is extraordinarily surprizing , and extreamly noble , and I could not imagine that any Gentleman would ever desire to have a fairer Court-yard to his house , than the spacious plain Arena of an old Roman Amphitheater , nor a better Wall than a high intire handsom Podium , the like to which perhaps is not at this day any where else to be seen . And I must freely confess , That of the Remains and Ruines of twelve old Amphitheaters , which I have seen my self , I have not met with any one that comes near it ; for in the Amphitheater at Douè in Poictou , which is cut out of a Rock , and being of a smaller dimension , and part of the bottom being filled up , there is no visible beauty of the Podiam , the like may be said also of that at Nizza , near the river Varus , and that at Puzzuolo . That at Nismes is filled up with dwelling houses , in such manner that the upper seats only are distinctly visible . The Amphitheaters of Bourdeaux , Xainctes , Arles , Garigliano , that at Rome near to the Church of Santa Croce in Gierusalemme , and others are at present so much ruined , that nothing of this nature distinguishable is to be expected ; nay even about the Arena at Verona , and the great Colisseo , or Domitian's Amphitheater at Rome , the ground is now risen so high , that the Podium is at present either buried , or disfigured . But as the Arena at Padoa is clear , and evident in this part ; so is it wanting in all the rest : and he that desires at this day to view all the Parts of an Amphitheater , must not see one , but many ; and by joyning them together in his thoughts he may collect the figure , proportion , and dimensions of this sumptuous sort of building of the old Romans .

From the Walls of Padoa , there is a pleasant Prospect of a plain Country to the North , East , and South ; and of the Euganean Hills to the West , which supply the Town with variety of Plants , and great Number of Vipers . At a few Miles distance are the hot Baths of Abano , and the Mineral drinking Waters of Monte Ortone , as also Marchese Obizzi's Country House , which we saw with great delight , it being well designed , and accommodated with a good Armory , a Theater for Comedies , handsom Stables , and a Tennis-court ▪ and nobly painted both within , and without , by that great Master , Paulo Veronese .

Leaving the Ancient City of Padoa , in the Two Thousand , Seven Hundred and Eighty Fifth Year after its first Foundation , according to their own compute , and Travelling Eighteen Miles through a fruitful Country , we came to the pleasant City of Vicenza ; a place worth the Vicenza ▪ seeing , by reason that Palladius hath here shown great skill in Architecture in his Rotunda , in imitation of the Pantheon ▪ at Rome , in his Theater exactly proportioned to the strict Rules of Building , and other fair Houses in the Town . There are also two Arches worth the observing , one near the Gate , behind which there is a noble ascent up to Santa Maria del Monte , and another in campo Martio . This City is filled with Nobility and Gentry , and drives a great Trade in making Silk , but is not of any considerable Strength .

The Piazza della Signoria is as beautiful a place as can well be contrived , and besides its being large enough to receive all the Gentry in an Evening , and to have Tilting , and Turnaments performed in it , it is beautified with the exquisite Front of the Palazzo della Ragione , of the Capitanio's Palace , and also with the Buildings of the Monte della Pietà , where Money is lent out without use to the poorer sort .

Vicenza is a rich Bishoprick esteemed at twelve thousand Ducats a Year , and in the Cathedral , besides other Reliques , are preserved the Bodies of Carpophorus , and Leontius , Martyrs of this Place ; but the most celebrated Relique of all , is kept in the Church of the Santa Corona , belonging to the Dominicans : It is one of the Thorns of our Saviour's Crown , given by Saint Lewis , King of France , to Bartolomeo Breganza , a native and Bishop of Vicenza .

The City of Vicenza , or Vicentia , is watered with the River Bacchiglione , and Rerone , or Eretenus , besides two other pretty Streams called the Astichello , and Seriola , which highly confer to its delightful Situation , and Convenience : but by reason that there are divers Hills very near , it can never be made strong , or able to make any significant Resistance ; and to speak the truth , it hath really been forced so many times , by every next bold Intruder , that few Cities , of this beauty , and perfection , have been oftner ravished . It is thought to have been built by the Galli Senones , in the time of Tarquinius Priscus ; but most Authors reckon it to be more Ancient , and will have it to be one of the twelve Cities built beyond the Apennines , by the old Tuscans ; and that the Gauls possessed it not , till the Tuscans were driven out . These in process of time yielded it to the Romans , who enjoyed it long , even till the coming of Attila the Hun , who notably sacked , and plundered it . The next to these that were Lords and Masters of Vicenza , were the Ostrogoths ; and after them the Lombards : Till the time that Desiderius , the last of the Lombardian Kings , having left his son Aldigier in this City , was taken prisoner by Charles the great ; and when it had served Charlemaigne , and his Successors with various fortune , in time it recovered its Liberty , and set up for a free City ; till the Emperor Frederick coming upon it of a sudden , took , and burnt it . Next to him Ezzellin ruled over it ; then the Padoans ; then Mastino della Scala first Signore di Verona , and his Family after him , till Giovanni Galeazzo Visconte , the first Duke of Milan , seized upon it , whose Dutchess Catharina , after the death of her husband , set them again at Liberty , and absolved them from their Oath of Allegiance , when upon Various Consultations in what manner they should govern themselves for the future and whether or no , they should unite with the Swizzers ; Henrico Caprasavio's Party prevailed , who persuaded them to give themselves Voluntarily to the Venetian ; by means of which free consent of their's , at last they enjoy at present greater immunities , and privileges than most of their neighbouring Cities .

Verona . From Vicenza we went to Verona , a noble , ancient , spacious City , of about six Miles round , well built , and now handsomly fortified by the Venetians with great Bastions . It hath three Castles , or Forts ; two upon the hill , and one by the River side ; many ancient and many handsom Churches , stately Convents and Buildings , both publick and private , and is very well watered with the pleasant River Aiche or Etshe , Athesis , Adige , or Adice .

Athesis . The River Athesis is a noble River , which arising above in the high Rhoetian Alpes and passing all along through the Vallis Venusta , comes rouling down by Trent , and then winds , and turns , within the City of Verona ; and afterwards , passing through the Fens near the l'o , enters the Adriatick Sea ; and many Authors report , That the great Incursion of the Cimbrians , was made by the sides of this River ; which is also confirmed by Hermannus Cruserius , Gulielmus Xylander , by the Bishop of Auxerres and divers other good Translators of Plutarch , as also that Catulus laid encamped upon this River , to hinder their further Invasion ; nay some proceed to mention a triumphal arch erected at Verona for Caius Marius his Victory , in these quarters : For Catulus the Consul , Collegue with Caius Mariu● , who marched against the Cimbri , despairing of being able to defend the tops of the Alp s ; where , being compelled to divide his Forces into several Parties , he might very much weaken himself , returned presently into Italy , and placed his Army by the River Athesis , say they ; where closing up the passages o● both sides of the River , with strong Fortifications , he made a bridge whereby he might assist those on either side , if the Enemies , having forced the narrow Passages should invade , and storm them . But the Cimbrians ceme on with such Boldness , and Contempt of their Enemies , that meerly to show their Plutarel ; Strength , and Courage rather than out of Necessity , they went naked in the Showres of Snow ; and through the ice , and deep Snow , climbed up to the top of the Mountains , and from thence , placing their broad Shields under their bodies , they let themselves slide from the highest precipices down those vast Descents ; and when they had pitched their Camp at a little distance from the River , and surveyed the Passage , they begun to pour in upon the Romans ; and Giant-like , tearing up the neighbouring Hills , and pulling up Trees by the Roots , and great Trees too ,

Quales Aeriae liquentia flumina circum , Sive Padi ripis , Athesin seu prop er amoenum , V. rg . 9. Aen● Consurgunt geminae Quercus , intonsaque Caelo Attolunt capita , et sublimi ver●ice nutant . Such overtopping , uncut Oakes as grow By pleasant Athesis , or th' liquid Streams of Po ; And higher than the clouds , their lofty heads do throw , Which seem to strike at Heaven , and not at us below .

And throwing in heaps of earth , and great Corners of Rocks whereby to turn the course of the River , and heaving in huge massy floats , which beat against the side of the Bridge , and broke down the supporters , the Roman Souldiers left their Camp , and fled ; yet notwithstanding all this , there may some doubt be made , whether they entred Italy by the sides of this River , and Plutarch himself doth not call the River , near which the Cimbrians descended , the River Athesis , but 〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉 ; the River Atise , or Tosa ; a River , which is at a great distance from any part of the Athesis ; and arising in the Alpes , runs evidently into the Lago maggiore , or Lacus Verbanus ; and is next to the River Lesia , or Lesitis , which passes by Vercelli , and falls afterwards into the Po : and when Baeorix , King of the Cimbrians , challenged the Roman Generals to fight , and bid them appoint their time , and place , Caius Marius returned this answer , that although it were not the Custom of the Romans to let their Enemies know , where and when , they intended to give battel ; yet he would at this time accept of his challenge , and appointed to meet him , in three days after , in the plains near Vercelli , where there was space enough for both Parties to show their valour ; and to determine this Controversy in a fair , and open field ; and where he gave a total overthrow to one of the greatest Armies perhaps that ever invaded Italy ; and hereby it seems to me , that this great drove of Cimbrians , or a good part of them , passed over Mount Sampion , or Mons Sempronius ; from which mountain the River Atiso takes its rise ; and the Description of the vast Precipices , and sliding down in their Shields , as it were a la ramasse , is by no means agreeable , nor can it any ways be allowed for a tolerable Delineation of the passage into Italy by Trent , where the road doth no where lye over any such vast Mountain ; but the terrible description by Mr Raymund , and Mr Lassels , of the bad way , and ill passage between Briga , and Domo , over Mount Sampion is very suitable to the ancient account .

As the pleasant River Athesis is very serviceable to Verona , so the four handsom Bridges over it , in this Town , are both useful , and ornamental ; and the Walls about it , in a great measure , remarkable ; though Verona being now very ancient , there is no good account at this day , to be found ; who was the founder of them , or by whom , or at what time , they were first built , it is manifest however , that they long since did good service , and that in the civil wars of the Romans , between Caesar , and Pompey ; Augustus , and Antonius ; Vitellius , and Vespasian ; Severus , and Julian ; and others ; this was a considerable place of strength , and sided with Caesar against Pompey , took Augustus's part against Marcus Antonius , was for Vitellius against Vespasian , & long after held out for some time for Maxentius against Constantine the great . The Emperor Gallienus took such particular care in fortifying Verona , that he left his name to the Town , and divers inscriptions upon the wall ; for the Roman Empire being much divided in his time , and the force of the foreign Nations encreasing in many parts , he expresly commanded , to render the walls of this place strong , which being seated in the jaws of the Alpes , was more likely to be swallowed first by the Northern Nations . Theodoricus Amalus , that great Conqueror , and excellent King of the Goths was in succeeding times , marvellously pleased with Verona , amplified and adorned it , rebuilt and fortified its walls , which were rendred , notwithstanding , in after ages , more considerable , by the Emperor Charles the great , and his Son , King Pippin ; who made this the head City of Italy . In latter times , Albertus Scaliger , brother to Mastinus Scaliger , the first Soveraign Lord of Verona , and his Son , Canis Grandis more fully enlarged and fortified Verona , against the Incursions of the Germans : And the Venetians , last of all have built large Bastions about itstrongly faced with Brick .

The City within is convenient and beautiful , the Piazza a handsome long Square , the Streets large , and the Town being built part upon the Plain , and part upon Hills , makes the variety of the Prospect more pleasing , looking somewhat like the beautiful City of Lyon in France . There are many good Houses ; Conte Augustino Giusto's Palace is particularly fair , and his Gardens delightful , in which I saw the Aloe Plant in Stem and Seed , the Stem or Stalk being about twenty Foot high ; the Churches are beautiful , among which Saint Anastastus is one of the fairest ; and the Cathedral and many others of them are antient , this City being converted to the Christian Faith by Saint Euprepius , their first Bishop , Seventy years after Christ . St. Zeno , their Eighth Bishop , is their Patron , who lived in the time of Gallienus , and Four and Thirty of their Bishops besides are Canonized . Peter Martyr was also Born in Verona , who was assassinated between M●lan and Coma , was Canonized by Pope Innocent the Fourth , and lies splendidly Entombed in Milan . Besides these great Religious Men , others though not so Famous for Piety , have , notwithstanding been living ornaments to their City ; among which the excellent Poet C. Valerius Catullus is one of the first , whom Ovid mentions .

Mantua Virgilio gaud t , Verona Catullo . And Martial complements in this manner . Tantum magna suo debet Verona Catullo , Quantum parva suo Mantua Virgilio .

C. Cornelius Nepos , was also born in the territories of Verona , to whom Catullus gives his Book .

Cui dono lepidum uovum libellum , Arido modo pumice expolitum , Corneli ? tibi , namque tu solebas Meas esse aliquid putare nugas .

Cornelius Nepos , excellently skilled in Antiquity is said to have written a Chronicle of the Roman Affairs , and other works , and the Lives of Illustrious persons , among which the life of Pomponius Atticus is only extant .

C. Aemilius Macer , a good Poet , was also of Verona . He lived in the time of Augustus Caesar , and wrote of Plants , Birds and Serpents .

Ovid. Saepe suas volucres legit mihi grandior Aevo , Quaeque nocet sorpens , quae juvat herba , Marcer .

The next is Lucius Vitruvius , a great Architect and whose Statue with other famous men of this City is set over the Court . The more known Marcus Vitruvius , who wrote the ten Books of Architecture , was of Rome .

Caius Plinius Secundus was also an honour to this City ; and of latter days many learned men by being born and living here , have added much to its credit , as Torello Sarayna , & Onuphrius Panvinius , who wrote expresly of the Antiquities of their own City . Jeronimus , Fracastorius , Joannes Baptista Montanus , Antonius Fumanellus , Alexander Benedictus , Gabriel Zerbus , Joannes Arculanus who lived a hundred years here , Guarinus , Joannes Antonius Pantheus , Joannes Baptista Bagolinus , and the admired learned Lady , Isota , Nogarola , who among other treatises wrote a dialogue , in which she ingeniously discourses who sinned first , Adam or Eve .

The Emperor Philippus was slain at Verona , by his own Souldiers . There was a Colony setled here by Pompey ; and one Pompeianus held out the Town against Constantine the great in the year 323. The Emperor Valentinian , after that he made his Brother Valens partner with him in the Empire and placed him in the East , visited this City , and Theodorick , the Conqueror of Italy and great King of the Goths lived long here . Placidia , daughter of Valentinian , the third , and of Eudoxia , lived the latter part of her time , dyed here and was buried in the Church of St. Stephen , which was formerly their Cathedral in which Church lye also buried one and twenty Bishops of Verona , forty Martyrs put to death in Dioclesian's Persecution , and four of the Innocent Children . But there are other things which still add to the beauty of this City .

Vrbibus Italiae praestat Verona superbis , Aedibus , Ingenio , Flumine , Monte , Lacu .

i. e.

Hills , Rivers , Lakes , Buildings and Arts do grace Noble Verona above any place .

The Lacus Benacus , or Lago di Garda , is a very considerable Lake , near this place , which stretches it self from Peschiera , on the South , Thirty five Italian Miles to the North , and is in some places Fourteen Miles broad , and the Winds often blowing fiercely from the Neighbouring Hills , make it rough , and troublesome , like a Sea .

Fluctibus & fremitu , assurgens , Benace , marino .

Cleopatra had once a design to carry her Ships and Vessels cross the Country through Aegypt , out of the Mediterranean into the Red-Sea , over that Isthmus , or neck of Land , which divides Africa from Asia , which would have been a notable exploit : yet considering that Aegypt is a flat Country , which renders the design more feasible , and that the Territory about this Lake is very Hilly , it is an action no less to be admired , which the Venetians effectually performed , when they brought their Ships and Galleys out of the Adriatick over Land into the Lago di Garda , to engage in a Naval Fight , upon this notable Lake , with Filippo Visconte , Commander of the Milan Forces .

There are divers handsom Towns and Villages upon the side of the Lacus Benacus , as Lacisium , Bardolinum , famous for the pleasant Bardolin Figgs , Garda , which gives it the modern name , Malsesenum , Ripa , Tusculanum , where there are still some remains of old Benacus , which gave it the ancient appellation , Maternum , Salodium , Desentianum , a populous Place , and of good Accommodation , Pischeria , through which the River Mincius passes , and lastly the ruines of old Sirmio , upon a neck of Land , which runs into the Lake , where stood formerly the beloved pleasing Villa of Catullus .

Peninsularum Sirmio , Insularumque Ocelle , &c.

The best Fish in this Lake , are the Eels , the Trouts , and a Fish peculiar to it , called a Carpione , which is thought to delight in some particular Earth , Soyl , or Mineral at the bottom thereof , seeing that it will not easily live , and thrive in any other place .

After the negligent reign of Gallienus , when the Thirty Tyrants sprung up , and the remote Provinces of the Empire had taken the liberty to do what they pleased , the Almans made use of this seasonable Opportunity , and breaking into Italy , with an Army of two hundred thousand men , the succeeding Emperor , Flavius Claudius , made a stout resistance , and at length overthrew them totally near this lake of Benacus .

Mount Baldus ▪ Mons Baldus , or Monte Baldo near Verona , is esteemed the most considerable Hill for Plants , and Medicinal Herbs of all the Alpes ; and the Calderian Baths are a further Ease and Convenience to this ancient City .

Verona is called Verona Nobile , and Verona Antica , and very ancient it is without doubt ; for Just in says expresly , That the old Gauls built Milan , Como , Breseia , Verona , Bergamo , Trent , and Vicenza ; and Livy most particularly , That the Gauls possessed themselves of those places where Breseia and Verona stand at present , but our Modern Italian Writers who are very unwilling that these spruce , polite Cities should owe their beginning to any rough tramontane Nation , are very eager in asserting , That they were built long before that time by the ancient Tuscans , but allow that they were afterwards possessed , and enlarged by the Gauls , and that Vera , a noble old Tuscan , laid the first Foundation of this place , and called it Verona , after his own Name . It was long after this , under the Romans , in the heighth and glory of their Empire ; and in the declination of it , this City shifted indifferently , till Attila took and sacked it ; and when divers others set themselves up for Emperors , and Sovereign Commanders , as ●lybrius , Glycerius , Augustulus and Odoacer , King of the Heruli , and Turingi , it served first one , and then another , till Zeno the Emperor , sent that renowned Christian Prince , Theodorick , King of the Goths , into Italy , who conquered and possessed it , as the due reward of his valour ; and by this means Verona came to serve the Goths , till Totilas , and Tevas , the last of their Kings were overthrown and slain by Narses , the Eunuch , who not long after called in the Lombards , being disobliged by the Empress Sophia , who endeavoured much to have him recalled , instigated her husband , the Emperor Justinian , against him , and sent him word after all his glorious Victories , and Services for them , That she would make him come home , like an Eunuch as he was , and Spin amongst her Maids ; to which Narses returned this Answer , That he did intend it , as soon as might be , and that he would Spin her such a Web , that she , nor all her Maids together should never be able to unravel ; and immediately sent to Alboinus , the Valiant King of the Lombards , who had lately overthrown Cunimundas , King of the Gepidae , and had taken his fair daughter Rosamund to wife , but withal had Slain the King her Father , and made a drinking Cup of his Skull . Alboinus was at that time possessed of Pannonia ; but upon the invitation of Narses came into Italy with his whole Force and Attendants , and took all the Country called formerly Gallia Cisalpina , and began the Longobardian Kingdom , which prevailed in Italy for about two hundred Years . This Alboinus being excessively merry , and pleasant at Verona , where he had placed the chief seat of his new Kingdom , amongst other Frolicks , he made poor Queen Rosamund , one day , drink out of her Fathers Skull , which so digusted her , that she perswaded Helmichild to assist her in the murder of her husband , for the reward of which action she promised herself in marriage to him with the Kingdom of Lombardy : but as soon as it was performed , they had hereby rendred themselves so intolerably odious to the Longobardian nobles , and people ; that they were forced to fly away to Longinus the Exarch of Ravenna , who being at the first sight wonderfully enamoured with the exquisite beauty of Queen Rosamund , perswaded her to dispatch Helmichild and accept of him , to which in this necessitous condition , she soon agreed , and when Helmichild was coming out of a Bath , and called for drink , she had prepared such a high poysonous draught for him , that before he had drunk half of it , he was sensible of what was done , and laying hold of her , forced her to drink the other half , whereby they both dyed together . After the Lombards , Charles the Great , Pipin , and the Berengarii , and others placed their Royal Seats here ; and in the time of Otho the first , it became a free City . Then Ezzellin came in , and tyrannized over them . Next to him , the Ancient Family of the Scaliger's , who for two hundred years together had lived here in credit and repute , and were at length advanced to the dignity of Sovereign Lords of Verona , which they held between two and three hundred years longer , and divers of their high raised Monuments are still to be seen in the streets of this City . Antonio the last of this Family that reigned here , was driven out by Giouanni Galeazzo Visconte , after him came Francisco di Carrara , then the Venetians , who lost it again to the Emperor Maximilian ; but in Conclusion , in the year , 1517. this City gave it self up totally to the State of Venice under which they live happily at present .

The Amphitheater at Verona . But the greatest remarkable curiosity , and the most noble antiquity in Verona , is the old Roman Amphitheater , the most intire within side , of any now standing , and one of the first Magnitude when it was built , the description of which deserves a Volume by it self , the Building being beyond , imagination glorious and whoever enters it at this day is presently surprized with its magnificent Structure , I have here inserted a Cut of it , as it may be imagined to have shown it self , when it was first built and intire ; which if it had been then divided into two parts , and one half removed from its Bases , the inside of the other half would have appeared in this manner . It is called at present the Arena , it was Prud. also formerly named Amphitheatrum and sometimes Cavea .

Quid pulvis Caveae semper funebris , & illa Amphitheatralis spectacula tristia pompae ?

A. Is the Altar placed in the middle of the Arena , in the perfect Center of the Amphitheater , a sacred business .

— Quid sanctius ara Quae bibit egestum ▪ per mystica tela cruorem ? This holy Altar drinks of blood , By Mystick Weapons spilt , a flood .

This was dedicated to Diana Scythica , to Saturn or to Mars ; Deities that delighted in the spilling of Human Blood , or to Jupiter Latiaris or Stygius .

The inside of the Amphitheater at ●erona . Hae sunt deliciae Jovis infernalis

The Arena . B. B. B. Is the Arena properly so called , or the sandy floor of the Amphitheater , upon which the combatants fought : It was covered with sand to suck up the Blood , for if it had been paved with Stone or plastered , upon great effusion of Blood , the Gladiators would have been apt to have slipped or fallen down ; but being of Sand , or Gravel , it was easie to be turned , or raked away , which it seems they did sometimes ; and this Martial mentions , speaking of a Lyon that broke out of his Den and killed two Youths .

Nam duo de tenera juvenilia corpora turba , Sanguineam rastris quae renovabat humum , Saevus et infelix furiali dente peremit . Martia non vidit majus Arena nefas . Two tender Striplings of the younger band , As they were raking up the blood sand , A Lyon slew , a sight more cruel ne'er Was seen in Mars's Amphitheater .

They sometimes also made use of Stone dust ; but the extravagant Emperors , Caligula , and Nero , caused the Arena to be strowed with Vermilion , and Gold dust , or with the dust of a Mineral , which resembled Gold . The Figure of the Arena is Oval . In pacing it from one extreme to the other , I found , it to be ninety paces long ; two of my paces make five foot ; and this is agreeable to the measure of Monsieur Desgodetz , and Joannes Carotus , the Painter of the Antiquities of Verona , who reckons it to be two hundred and twenty four foot long , and one hundred and thirty five foot broad ; but the Arena of Domitian's Amphitheater at Rome , is a hundred and fifty of my paces long , or three hundred and seventy five foot .

The Portul● . The Arena is walled about with a wall of thirteen or fourteen foot high , in which there are divers Portulae , C. C. C. or little Gates , or Doors , belonging to the inward Caves and Dens , from which the wild Beasts usually come out with Swiftness , Force , and Violence into the Arena , and when the fights are over , those which are left alive are driven back again into their Dens , with several Wheels and Engines . Sone●a .

Carriculi rotarumque versata facies Leonem redigit in Cavuam .

Nor is it to be much admired , that the force of the , Rota , and , Axis , which is able to remove any thing , should be powerful enough to drive back a Lyon . This device , at present , being much improved at Florence , where they place a man within a Monstrous green Dragon moved upon wheels , which runs upon the wild Beasts , and drives them back : and whilest the Lyons sometimes turn , and stare upon this formidable machine , the man within thrusts two lighted Torches , out of the eyes of the Dragon , able to out stare any Beast , and to shine more flaringly than the bright Golden Iris in the Lyons Eye . In the hunting and baiting of Lyons , in former ages , they made use of great Oval flat Shields , which covered their whole body ; and in this posture came on unseen ; and if the Lyon were still so bold , as to advance against this moving wood , as he would sometimes , and overthrow one of the hunters , yet still the Huntsman kept himself covered with his Shield , and the Lyon was satisfied with leaping upon him , and pawing the Shield , whilest the man laid in safety under it . And the manner of this hunting of Lyons is finely expressed , in Painting , in the Sepulchre of the Nasonian Family , lately discovered in the Campania di Roma , whereby we may understand in what high value , and delight , the Old Romans held these huntings and fightings with Beasts , whilest they Painted them in their Tombs , to recreate the Shades below , and thought them sports worthy to be exercised and continued in the Elysian fields . In another part of the same Sepulchre there is painted the manner of the hunting of Tigres which is performed by the huntsmen uniting their Shields together ▪ and bearing up against him , whilest one lifts up a lance above the Shields , and wounds the Beast , or else by placing a looking-glass in a wood , which the Tigre spying , comes to it , and as he regards , and admires his own shape in the glass , a Hunsman placed above , wounds him with a Spear or Javelin .

These Caves are now clearliest to be seen in the Amphitheater of Nizza , Arles , and Douè .

The Podium D. D. The top of this Wall makes the Podium , behind which the first row of seats begins .

This part of the Amphitheater was sometimes richly gilded and adorned , and the Figures of Victory placed upon it , and Statues handsomly contrived to throw forth tinged , and perfumed liquors to sprinkle and refresh the Knights , and Senators ; and upon the outside of the Podium , there were placed nets , and loose rowlers , which turned upon an axis , to hinder the wild Beasts from climbing up , and whereby the Lyons , Tigers , Leopards , when they leaped up of a Suddain , by the quick turning about of these rowlers , they immediately fell down again .

Suggustum Imperatoris : E. Is the Suggestum Imperatoris , the Pulpit , Seat , or Throne of the Emperor , a little Chamber , or Box , built for the Emperor's person , in which he might either sit privately , and see through lattices or have the forepart of it open upon the Podium . This was first caused to be made by Julius Caesar , and is mentioned by Suetonius among other excessive honours which he received , and which were thought too great by some , that is , that he permitted his Statue to be set up amongst the Kings , and a Throne , to be built for him in the chief place of the Amphitheater , and when in Nero's time by the help of Machines , they attempted to act Icarus , the poor fellow that was to fly cross the Amphitheater , fell down near the Emperors throne ▪ and imbrued it with his blood : But Trajan had the lowest Seats of the Theaters , Amphitheaters , and Circus's made plain , and equal , as at first ; where the People were highly pleased to see , not the Box , as formerly ▪ wherein Great Caesar sat , but to see him in person sitting equally with the rest of the Nobility .

The outside of the Amphitheater at Nismes Round about which there are one hundred and twenty Arches and as many Pillars , sixty in the upper rowe , and sixty in the lower

F. F. are the lower Seats , appointed for the Senators , and Vestal Virgins ; for the Emperor Nero considering , That the Virgins devoted to the Goddess Ceres , were invited to the Olympian games , made an order , That the Vestal Virgins should also be alloted seats in the Orchestra , or most honourable places of the Amphitheater .

G. G. are the Equestria , the middle places , for the Equites Romani , the Seats appointed for the Roman Knights , and Gentlemen ; and there were Officers on purpose to place every one in his due Rank , and these were called Dissignatores , and Tribuni voluptatum .

H. H. are the Popularia , the Places for the Common People , for the ordinary sort of both Sexes , and where the Women sate , whom their Husbands could not keep at home , and who would flock in such numbers as to ●ill the Amphitheaters up to the top , and bring Chairs and Stools to set upon the top of all , and in the Portico's and Galleries above .

Venimus ad sedes , ubi pulla sordida veste Inter faemineas spectabat turba Cathedras .

I. I. I. are the Vomitoria , or square holes , or entrances , through which the Spectators came pouring in , to take their places ; for considering that the Amphitheaters were Buildings capable of receiving vast numbers of People , ( that of Titus at Rome being able to contain fourscore thousand persons conveniently ) it was necessary also that the Entrances should be numerous , that the spectators might come in and out without confusion , in this Amphitheater of Verona in every ninth and tenth row of seats , there are rows of Vomitoria , every one at an equal distance from one another , eighteen in a row , which make seventy two distinct entrances , to every one of which there is a peculiar Stair-case , coming out from within the Arches , which support the Amphitheater ; beside all other Stairs , and Passages within , and Ascents from one story to another , which alone is enough , to show , that these were vast extraordinary Buildings .

L. L. L. are the rows of Arches within , built round the Amphitheater to support the Seats and upper Buildings .

M. M. is the Caenaculum , or upper Gallery , built for the Strength and ornament of the whole , into which they might retire , and walk , and refresh themselves . This part is found but in few Amphitheaters , and in those only of the larger kind , and there is but little remaining of it at present in this , most of it being thrown down by a great Earthquake in the year eleven hundred eighty three , as the Annals of Verona declare .

N. N. N. are the holes left in the building of the outward wall of the Amphitheater to stick masts into , for the better fastning of the Ropes , Sayls , and Curtains to shade the Spectators ; for the Romans not wearing hats with brims when they sate long in these open places , were often injured by the Sun , which forced some to make use of Thessalian Caps and Vmbrella's , till that at length Q. Catullus brought in the Mode of using Sayl-cloths and Coverings of Linen to shade the Seats , which Julius Caesar , according to his splendid humour , caused to be made of Silk of various colours , of Yellow , Red , and Crimson , and yet was exceeded herein by the Emperor Nero , who ordered his own picture to be embroidered in these coloured Silks , in the posture of Apollo driving the Chariot of the Sun , and round about him , the Stars , and Constellations in Gold ; and Lucretius takes notice of the graceful , beautiful shades , which these coverings made somewhat after this manner .

When purple Coverings , Yellow , or deep Red , Over the Amphitheater are spread , Which mighty Masts , and sturdy Pillars bear ; And the loose Curtains wanton in the Air , Whole Streams of colours from the top must flow , And with diffused beams stayn all below . The more the Curtains spread , the more the Dye Rides ore the Silver Air , and courts the Eye . Rich colours spread themselves o'er every thing . Each man 's as glorious as a purple King .

But the outside of the Amphitheater of Verona , was as splendid as the inside , though at present a Portion of it only remains , as much as between , O , and P. By this small part however the whole is easily known , especially in so uniform a building as this . The outside therefore being all of marble , about a hundred and twenty foot high , consisted of three rows of Pillars and Arches , one over another , which opened into large walks , and spacious Portico's within , quite round the Building ; and above these three rows of Arches , there was a handsom wall with Windows over every Arch , and Pilasters over every Pillar beneath ; each row consisted of seventy two Arches , and seventy two Pillars of a great height ; the upper row moreover is said to have been adorned with excellent Statues . But the outside of the Amphitheater at Nismes , being the most entire of any now standing , I have also inserted a Cut of it , that nothing might be wanting to the clear understanding of the manner of these buildings : and as that at Verona , hath three rows of Pillars , and a wall above them , this at Nismes hath only two rows of Pillars on the outside , and the seats withinside reach up to the top of it , and it hath no Galleries above . To supply this Amphitheater at Nismes with water sufficient to represent naval fights therein , the great Pont du Gard was built , which supports an Aquaeduct passing from one Mountain to another , a Cut whereof is also inserted , it being one of the most magnificent Roman Antiquities now standing in Europe .

These wonderful Structures were first raised by the Romans , for the more convenient exhibiting of Shows and Fights to the People ; and these Fights were either between Beasts and Beasts , Men and Beasts , or between Men and Men. The Fights between Beasts and Beasts are still continued ; for the Gentlemen of Verona take that care of this Ancient Venerable Building , that there is not at present one Stone wanting of all the Seats within ; and when they would see any strange hunting , fighting , or baiting o. Beasts , they presently enter their own old Amphitheater , where at this time , three or four and twenty thousand Persons may sit and see distinctly every Action , and pass away part of the day in pleasure and delight .

Pont du Gard near Remolin within four Leagues of Nismes in Languedoc a Remarkable Antiquity one hundred and eighty six foot high from the river A A to the top of the Aquaeduct . B. B.

But these Sports were pursued with much more eagerness in the time of the old Romans , who brought strange Beasts from all Parts of the known World to fight before them , in these publick places ; in consideration whereof , upon the successful Atchievements of Sylla in Africa . the People of Rome were not so much pleased with his making their inveterate Enemy King Jugurtha his Prisoner , as they were infinitely delighted with the thoughts of the great familiarity , that Sylla had with Bocchus , King of Gaetulia , whereby they hoped , that he might obtain most strange unheard of African Monsters of Beasts , to be shewn in their Amphitheaters ; and Pompey the Great most wonderfully gratified the inclinations of his fellow Citizens , when he first brought a great Rhinoceros to Rome ; After him Augustus Caesar brought another , and following Emperors the like . This Beast , as it is reported , performed strange things there ; and when irritated , would with his great strong Horn , presently throw up all other combatant Beasts to the Skies , and a Bull could not toss up a Ball Higher than he would toss up Bulls and Bears together .

Martial . Namque gravem gemino cornu sic extulit Ursam , Jactat ut impositas Taurus in astra pilas .

And again ;

O quam terribiles exarfit pronus in iras ! Quantus erat Cornu , cut pila Taurus erat !

The Fights between Men and Beasts were more unequal for the most part performed by Slaves , Captives , and Condemned Persons , yet some of good quality have also polluted themselves with these Brutish Sports , and acquired the true title of Bestiarij . That which happened to Androdus a Dacian , upon this occasion is well known now , but was surprizing at first , who standing ready in the Arena , and having a Lyon let out upon him , received no hurt ; for the Lyon came gently to him , caressed and fawned upon him , and he likewise stroaked , and made much of the Lyon ; and after the loud shouts of the People , being asked how this came to pass , he let them know , That being with his Master in Africa , to get rid of his hard service , he had fled into a Cave , whither this Lyon came with a Splinter in his Foot , and held up his wounded Paw to him to cure ; which having performed and free'd his Foot from the splinter and healed it , the Lyon kept him and provided meat for him three years , and when he came away the Lyon followed him so far , that he was also taken and brought to Rome , and that by the further cruelty of his old Master he was now condemned to the Beasts , where they found him ; whereupon his liberty was granted him , and the Lyon given him for his pains , with which he afterwards got his living , every one being desirous to see the Lyon that was the mans Host , and the man that was the Lyons Surgeon .

The Fights between Men and Men , were of divers kinds , for they sometimes fought on Horse-back , as the Andabatae , sometimes in Chariots , as the Essedarij , and sometimes in Ships and Vessels , and this either in the Amphitheaters , ( the Arena being filled with water ) or in a Building made on purpose , called a Naumachia ; or in artificial Ponds , and cuts out of Rivers ; and the Emperor Claudius exhibited a Naval Fight upon the Fucine Lake , the Lago di Celano , or lacus Fucinus , a days Journey from Rome , where at his first appearance both Fleets saluted him with an Ave , Caesar , morituri te salutant .

But the greatest number of their Fights was performed by Gladiators Retiarius . on foot , of which there were also divers forts ; as first , the Retiarius , who was armed with a Trident in one hand , and held a Net in the other , with which he entangled , and caught his Enemy ; or otherwise , if he missed of his foe , he then fled swistly away ; Tota fugit agnoscendus arena . Through all the Amphitheater he flies Like lightning through the Azure skies .

Until such time as he could gather up his Net again & prepare for another encounter . The whole habit and way of fight is exactly described by Juvnal , in the eighth Satyr , where he reprehends a noble Roman , one of the great Family of the Gracchi , for taking upon himself this kind of gladiatura . It was thought to be brought in fashion first , in imitation of Pittacus , one of the wise Men of Greece , who being challenged by Phryno , came into the field like a fisherman , and involving his Enemy in his Net , slew him with his Trident and Dagger ; but some were delighted to see these Gladiators slayn , for being that they fought without Armour , only in a short coat and bare-faced , they might the better take notice of the last Motions of their Limbs , and the Alterations of their colour , Famous Statues of old still preserved in Rome . lineaments and features in their dying agonies : And I have seen the Statue of a dying Gladiator in Ludovisio's Gardens at Rome , so well represented , and so exquisitely carved that it may compare with the Figures of the most famous Statuaries in any age ; since it is thought meet to be numbred in the first rank with the works of Phydias , and Praxiteles , and is not less esteemed than the wonderful Statue of Pyramus in the same gardens , nor Farnese's Hercules made by Glycon the famous Greek , nor the old Aegyptian Terme ; Nay the beautiful statues of Antinous , and Apollo Pythian , in Belvedere , the garden to the Vatican , are not at this day more to be admired . Nor the rare Figure of Venus her self in Medici's Palace ; nay furthermore the Grecian Statue of Peace , and the Greek Shepherdess that holds up her garments , to show her due proportions , are no ways ashamed to be ranked with him , who by good Artists is held in the same esteem with Farnese's bull , and the never to be out-done Laocoon and his Sons , the joynt work of the rare ancient Masters , Agesander , Polydore , and Athenodorus . This whole order of the Retiarij was devoted to Neptune , and generally fought against a party , who were followers of Vulcan , fire and water not being like to agree . These were called Secutore .

Ju●enal . Cum Graccho jussus pugnare Secutor .

Secutor . The Secutor was guarded with a Shield , which he carried high , to hinder his head from being catched in the Net , and with a Spear or long Sword .

Prud. Altius impresso dum palpitat ense Secutor .

These fought , and followed after the Retiarii , and other Gladiators , with fierceness and courage , and were favoured by divers Emperors , who liked this way of fighting ; and when five Retiarij had yielded to five Secutores , and thrown down their weapons , the Emperor Caligula , commanded the Secutores to kill them ; which they did to the last man , who becoming desperate took up his fork again , and slew all the five conquering secutores , and this loss of his dear friends was bemoaned by the Emperor in a publick Edict , with the exclusion of those who endured to see it , from being present , for the future at any sacred rite . But the Emperor Commodus not only encouraged these Gladiators , but took their parts in his own person also , and fought along with them in the Arena ; and when the flattering Romans cryed him up for a Hercules , a Mars , and shouted out that he fought like a God of war , he thought that they mocked and laughed at him , and immediately called to his marine Legion , that were tending the Ropes and Sayl cloths , come down , and kill the Spectators .

Another order of Gladiators imitated the Thracians in their fights , and bearing a small Parmula , or little plain Thracian shield , but trusting chiefly to their broad strong Swords with their points turning upward , like the present Turkish , or Persian Cimitars . They were called Threces , Threces . or Thraces , and were terrible slashing ▪ cutting Swords-players , and derived this custom , manner , and occasion of fight , from the old Thracians ; even before the time of Herodotus , when they fought with the same weapons for prizes and rewards at the suneral , and tombs of their great men in Thrace ; and these Fencers fought either against one another or against other Gladiators .

Myrmillones . A Myrmillo was a notable Sword-player and fought after the Gallick way , dopping , and squatting low and frisking about , and covering himself with his great oval shield , and had his head armed with a strong Helmet , upon the Crest of which was the Figure of a Fish ; and when his Enemy lay bare , or gave any occasion of a thrust , he would leap up briskly of a sudden , and run him through and through with his sharp pointed Sword . Who could contrast with such a cunning , strong , and active combatant ?

Quis Myrmilloni componitur aequimanus ? Thrax .

The Thracian fighter would often engage with him , and the Retiarius many a time , and would come up to him with his Net in his hand , singing this ; Non te peto , piscem peto , Quid me fugis , Galle ?

Another sort of Gladiators were named Samnites , whose armour is described by Livy . Their shields were inlayed , engraven , and imbossed with Silver , and with Gold : One end of their shield , with which they guarded their breast , was flat , broad , streight , and even ; the other end next their shoulder , was narrower , that it might be turned and moved with more ease ; besides which , they had a long strong Sword , a Breast-plate , a Helmet with Feathers upon the Crest , and a Boot upon their left leg . These Gladiators were in great request in Campania , from whence the Romans learned many of their Amphitheatrical sports , and exercises ; and they fought against the Pinnirapi , and the Provocatores .

Dimachari . Besides these , there were others called Dimachaeri who fought with Laquearij . two Swords , and others named Laquearii , these were dangerous fellows that fought with Sword and Halter , and had two ways with them to entangle , and destroy their Enemies .

Meridiani . The Meridiani were a bold desperate Crew , who came rushing into the Amphitheater at Noon , when the Gladiators had concluded , and the Spectators were dismissed , and with their drawn Swords ran at one another without Order , Art , or Armour , and scorning to make use of Head-pleces , Shields , and such like Hindrances and Delays of Death , butchered one another presently .

But that which is still more strange , the tender Female Sex was not exampted from these sharp , rude exercises .

Statius . Hos inter fremitus novosque lusus Stat Sexus rudis insciusque ferri , Et pugnas capit improbus viriles .

They picked out the most beautiful , comely , lovely young Women that could be found , and put them to School to a Lanista , or Master of Defence , to be instructed in the Art of Fighting ; where a tender young Gentlewoman that had scarce strength enough to exercise at a carving School , must be fencing every Morning with a great Fellow , and be set such rude Lessons as these :

None of your shifting Gallick play , Great Caesar likes the Samnite way . Come close , strike home , and you 'll one day Bear your Foes life and Fame away . And if you miss of Victory , In graceful postures learn to dye .

For those who were put to a Lanista in the most severe way , were bound to be burnt , whipped , and fall by the Sword .

Igne uri , virgis caedi , ferroque necari .

Now to see one of these fine young Women fight , well dressed , with her golden Shield , and her fair Plume of Feathers , the Emperor himself could not forbear commending , and crying out sometimes , Well played fair Lady ; or as Xerxes said when he beheld from a high Hill ●●r●do●s . the Sea-fight at Salamis , and Artemisia had sunk one of his own Ships instead of one of the Enemies , well fought Queen Artemisia , my Women fight like Men , and my Men like Women . However we have very good Authority to assure us that the Women fought stoutly .

To see o●e of those spruce Dames lay it on Like any right bred raging Amazon . You 'd think your self near to fierce Thermodon . Stat. Credas ad Tanaim ferumque Phasim Thermoden●iacas calere turbas .

And that they generally fought after the manner of the Samnites we may learn from Juvenal , where he takes notice , what a fine Credit it would be for a man to cry out at a publick Sale of his Wives Goods ; who gives most for my Wives Boots ? who bids Money for her Corselet , Helmet , Gauntlets ?

Quale decus , rerum si conjugis auctio fiat , Baltheus , & Manicae , & Cristae , Crurisque sinistri Dimidium tegmen ?

But Domitian the Emperor went still beyond this , when he set his Gladiators together in the night , and made his Dwarfs fight , those little Pygmaean Creatures : But we need say no more of them , for it may be thought by some that Whether they slew , or whether they were slain They'd both make but one Morsel for a Crane .

And indeed it is high time to leave this omnium Daemonum templum , as Tertullian calls it altogether , and pass forward to more pleasing objects . Parting therefore from Verona in the Morning , we travelled through a delightful plain Country 24 Miles , and came early in the Afternoon to Mantua .

Mantua ▪ Mantua is pleasantly seated in a Lake like to the Description of the situation of the great City Mexico . This Lake of about five Miles long , is made by the opening of the River Mincius , or Mentzo , a delightful stream , which runs slowly , spreads it self wide , and bears its name high amongst the noted Floods of this Region .

Frondentibus humida ripis Colla levant pulcher Ticinus , & Addua visa Caerulus , & velox Athesis , tardusque meatu Mincius ▪ Mincius .

And again ; Volucres quas excipit amne quieto Mincius .

This River runs into the Po , and rises out of the Lacus Benacus , and is so full of Reeds in many places , especially near Mantua , that I cannot omit Virgil's proper elegant way of mentioning his own Country Rivers .

Hinc quoque quingentos in se Mezentius armat , Quos patre Benaco velatus arundine glaucâ Mincius infesta ducebat in aequora pinu .

The entrances into Mantua over the lake are made good by strong Causeys , of five or six hundred paces long , having Draw-bridges at each end ; and that over which we passed , called Ponte di St. Giorgio , hath a covered Bridge for a great space together , and a Tower in the middle . The Ponte de' Molini hath twelve Mills in the Arches , called the twelve Apostles , which afford the Duke a considerable Revenue . The Streets are large , strait , and clean . Here are eight Gates , eighteen Parishes , and forty Monasteries . The Domo or Cathedral is built after the design of Giulio Romano , the Roof of which is painted with Azure and Gold ; in this Church they preserve the Body of St. Anselm , Bishop of Luca ; in the Church of St. Andrew , is the Body of St. Longinus the Martyr , together with some drops of the Blood of our Saviour , which are said to be brought hither by that holy man . The Duke's Palace is stately and magnificent , and was the best furnished of any in Italy , till the Imperial Army plundered it , in the time of the Emperor Ferdinand the Second , in the year 1630. There are three Suburbs which appear like to so many distinct little Towns , Porto Forteze , Borgo di St. Giorgio , and Il Te. The Duke hath also divers Country Houses , as that of Marmirola , in the way to Verona , which is nobly furnished , hath Royal Apartments , good Gardens , Fountains , and Water-works . La Favorita is upon the side of the Lake , and hath about a hundred Rooms in it . La Virgiliana is another pleasant Country House with a Farm adjoyning to it , called thus , by reason that it is near to the Village of Petola , formerly called Andes where Virgil was born .

Mantua Musarum domus , atque ad sidera cantu Andino evectus . Mantua the Muses dwelling all along , But rais'd up to the Stars by th' Andine song .

The Palazzo del Te , at no great distance from one of the gates of the City , is well worth the seeing , where the hall is painted with the history of the Gyants storming of heaven , and so artificially roofed , and vaulted , that it makes a double whispering place , where , at the opposite corners of the room , every little sight and whispering is distinctly heard , and in no other place ; and he that stands between hears nothing of it . I had formerly been in whispering places at Padoa , Montpellier , and elsewhere ; but those were single ones , made by the contrivance of the roof , upon this rule , That the Angle of Incidence , is always equal to the Angle of Reflection , and the whole top of the room so proportioned as to reflect all to one point , that comes from another opposite to it ; but these far exceed them all , being contrived with a double and cross Arch , and make a large double cross whispering place .

Threescore years before the Trojan war Eteocles , and Polynices , sons to Oedipus , King of Thebes , contending for the Soveraignty , that City was invaded , besieged , and ruined by the Greeks , when Mantho , the great Theban Sorceress , seeing that her Country was destroyed , fled first into Asia , where she built a Temple , and dedicated it to Apollo , then sayled into Italy , and went to Tyberinus , King of the Tuscans , by whom she had a Son named Ocnus , who alterwards passed the Apennines , & the Po , & built this City , and called it after his Mothers name , according to the Mantuan Poet.

Ille etiam patriis agmen ciet Ocnus ab oris , Fatidicae Manthus et Tusci silius amnis , Qui muros matrisque dedit , tibi Mantua nomen .

The Galli Cenomani , afterwards beat out the Tuscans , and made Reto fly into that part of the mountains since called the Rhetian Alpes . The Romans overthrew the Gauls , and Mantua followed the various Fortune of the Western Empire till the Emperour Otho , the second , gave it to Tedaldo , Count of Canossa , Boniface succeeded , and Beatrix his Countess ; then the Countess , Mathildis , who made great wars in Italy , sided with the Pope against the Emperor , and left large possessions , and revenues to the Church . The Family of the Bonacolsi ; in process of time , obtained the Lordship of this City , Passavino the last of that stock was slain in the market place by the people in the year 1328 under the command of Lodovico di Gonzaga , the first Lord of Mantua of this Family that reigns at present . Frederick , the second of this line , was made Duke of Mantua , by Charles the fifth , and Vincent the first was afterwards created Duke of Montferrat . The present Duke is Carolus Ferdinandus Gonzaga , Duke of Mantua , and Montferrat , and of Niveronis , and Retelois in France , perpetual Prince and Vicar of the holy Empire , Marquess of Gonzaga , Viadana , Gazolo , and Dozolo , Count of Rodiga , Lord of Luzara , and chief of the order of the Knights of the Blood of Christ , which order was instituted in the year 1608 , by Vincent , Duke of Mantua , who had been three times in Hungary , Austria , and Croatia , in the wars against the Turks .

Eridanus . From Mantua we travelled to the great River Eridanus , Padus , or the Po , which arises from mount Viso , or Mons Vesulus , one of the highest mountains of the Alpes towards France , and rowling down in divers branches at first , without any fixed channel unites at the foot of the mountain , and falls under ground , and after a mile or two appears again , and running with a swift course through Lombardy , after it hath received thirty Rivers more which fall from the Alpes & Apennine , discharges it self by divers mouths into the Adriatick sea , and this being by far the greatest River in Italy , it is mightily magnified by the Latin Poets who would have it no less than the Nile , and the Danube , and mention it by the name of the King of Rivers , and the greatest in the world . And it must be confessed , that it is a noble flood , and that it is the only River that hath a place in Heaven : or that hath the glory to be made a constellation , and placed in the Chambers of the South , near to the stormy , tempestuous Orion ; andsince that it is adorned with thirty eight stars , which shine visibly in the Firmament , to be called Starry and Celestial , are but its due Terms of honour : but sure there are many Rivers upon earth in Europe , Asia , Africa , and America that far exceed it .

The Po being very swift we passed it by boat , not without some peculiar Contrivances , and Engines , and the kind assistance the sisters of Phaeton , who mourn here for the dismal fall of their Brother , when Jupiter struck him down from Heaven into the Po.

Excipit Eridanus fumantiaque abluit ora . Ediranus did his Limbs imbrace And wash'd his smoaking Sun-burnt face .

And having stood so long by thebanks of this River , they may be though to be more conversant with its Course and Passages . They tye ropes in this Country to the tops of high Poplars , one end on one side of the River , and the other on the other , or build high Beacons , or Posts like those made use of in the Strapado ; on each side of the River : and upon a line fixed to them , they put a running Pully , to which they fix another long rope , and to the further end of this rope the boat is tyed , and by steering the head of the boat obliquely cross the River , the force of the Stream makes the pully run from one side to another ; by which means we passed it without labour or trouble .

Ovid. Sine Remig is ictu Concava Trajecto Cymba rudente vehit . A rope drawn through a Pully soon convey'd Us cross the Po , without the Rowers aid : And a small boat , without broad sayls and oars , Did gently waft us to the neighbouring shores .

I had formerly passed the Po , as high as Turin , and at another time went by boat through a cut made out of the Po into the Athesis , and once I travelled for some space together on horse-back at the bottom of a branch of this River , where the banks being broken down it had forsaken its channel .

Guastala . The next town we came to was Guastala , belonging to a Soveraign Prince , the Duke of Guastala ; a handsom small Town at present , but formerly larger , and more considerable when there were two General Councils held here , one under Pope Vrban the second , and another under Pope Pascal the second .

Brescello . From Guastala we travelled by Gualtea , to Brescello or Brixellum , a compact close strong Town , fortified after the modern way , upon the side of the Po : An old Roman place of habitation , where the Emperor Otho staid in his journey against Vitellius , when after the conflict at Labiuta , then called Bebriacum , he took a resolution of dispatching himself , not out of any despair of overcoming all difficulties , but rather out of his modesty , as Suetonius relates it , and unwillingness to seize upon , and continue so great an Empire , with the hazard of so many brave mens lives that served him , and therefore early in the morning after a draught of cold water he stabbed himself with a dagger under the left Pap , in the ninety fifth day of his reign , and the thirty eight year of his life . This town hath at present about three or four thousand Inhabitants , and a good Garrison belonging to the Duke of Modena , it being near to the state of Milan , Mantua , and Parma . The Spanish Troops , under the command of the Marquiss of Carracena , attempted to surprize it in the year , 1655 , but were repulsed by the Duke of Modena's forces . Having passed Briscello we crossed the River Nicia , now Lenza , and soon came to Parma .

Parma . The Dukedom of Parma , is guarded by the Apennine mountains and divers Rivers , and is a very fruitful Country , affording plenty of excellent wines , and some good Muscatelli , fruits of various sorts , rich pastures plenty of Cattel , the best Cheese in Italy , great store of Chestnuts , and Tartufali Truffes , Tubera terrae , Roots without Stems , or Plants growing from them , which they hunt after with a pig which smells them out , and discovers where they are ; these are a great dish in Italy , and though they seem to have no great nourishment in them are esteemed to be provocative . And besides these , this Country affords some mines of Copper and Silver , and very fine Wool .

Velleribus primis Apulia , Parma secundis Nobilis .

The City of Parma is very ancient , inhabited long since by the Tuscans , then by the Boii , next by the Romans ; a Colony being sent hither from Rome about a hundred and eighty two years before the coming of our Saviour ; and another in the time of Augustus Caesar . But upon the declining of the Roman Empire it ran through divers fortunes , served sometimes Venice , and sometimes Milan , till it was conquered by Pope Julius , the second , and given by Paul the third to his Son Petro Luigi Farnese , about a hundred and thirty five years since , in whose Family it still continues .

It is a Delightful , Airy , well seated City , the Houses being low , the Streets broad , and the River Parma running between the City and the Suburbs , both of which are well fortified with good Bastions and a broad Ditch . It hath three handsom bridges over the River . The Duke's Palace is splendid , his Coaches extremely rich , his Gardens worth the seeing with the Grotto's , Fountains , Water-works , and Bows of Orange Trees . The lodgings are furnished with excellent pictures , vessels of Porphyry , A gath , and Jaspis .

The Cathedral is fair and stately ; In the Capucines Church is the tomb of Alexander Farnese , Duke of Parma , one of the greatest commanders of his time , and of his Dutchess Maria of Portugal . The Church of St. John is large , and beautiful , and adorned with the paintings of those great Masters , Corregio , and Parmegiano , and the Benedictin Convent adjoyning is one of the largest and fairest of the order . This City was formerly besieged for two years together by the Emperor Frederick Barbarossa , who in hopes to make himself Master of it built another Town near to it called Victoria , but those of Parma behaved themselves so stoutly , that they freed themselves , and ruined his new Town of Victory .

Fornova . From Parma we went to Fornovo ten miles from thence , seated upon the swift River Taro , and rendred remarkable by the battel gained here by Charles the eight , King of France , against the confederate Princes of Italy in the year 1494 in hisre turn from the conquest of Naples . Taro. The River Taro is a remarkable River , which runs and plays about the plains , before it falls into the Po , and is very swift , although it be not streight , but notably winding and turning . At first sight I conjectured that it would prove a troublesome River , when it was shut up between the Hills : and so we found it ; for as soon as we had left the open spacious plain Country in which we had travelled with pleasure from Padoa hither , and had got in between the spurs of the Apennine , and entered the Val di Taro , the valley in which this River runs , we were forced to travel many times inconveniently upon the sides of the hills , on the right hand , and on the left ; and furthermore to cross the River it self above forty times , and in one passage , one Gentlemans Mule fell down with him in the middle of the River ; but after we came past Borgo di Valle the River was less , and we turned more to the right hand , and climbed up the Apennine Mountains .

Borgo di Valle . Borgo , or Borgo di Valle is a walled Town at the upper end of this valley , upon the side of the hills , where we shew our bills of health , and where the Duke of Parma keeps a Garrison . The Banditi appearing in these parts the day before , the Governor sent a guard of Musqueteers with us to convoy us with safety over the hills into the State of Genoa .

The Apennine Mountains . The Apennine is a row of Mountains of many hundred miles long , beginning at the Alpes , continued from one end of Italy to the other , and ending by Reggio , or Rhegium upon the Sicilian Sea , and in some places are more than a hundred miles broad , and by this means take up the greatest part of Italy , and render it a Mountainous Country , and though there be many valleys between , yet the hills do really reach ▪ and extend themselves from the Tyrrhene to the Adriatick , from the lower to the upper sea , conformable to the description of them by Lucan .

Hinc Tyrrhena vado frangentes aequora Pisae , Illinc Dalmaticis obnoxia fluclibus Ancon .

And this makes the travelling in Italy to be generally on Horseback , or upon Mules ; whereas in France one may travel five hundred miles together in Coaches , and in Germany all over the Country ; and if it were not for Campania foelix , and the great continued plain Country between the Alpes and Apennine , Italy could never make good the high Character it has .

Ovid mentions the Airy Alpes , and cloudy Apennine , and most Mountains have clouds about them , and in the evening the Clouds , floating in the Air after Sun set slip away towards the next high hills , and take up their rest in the hollow spaces of the Mountains , and when the Sun rises next day , and warms the Air , the clouds dislodge again , rise up , and wander through the Skies ; but the Apennines are more cloudy generally than other hills , whether for having the Seas on both sides of them , or for other reasons , I leave to the more accurate searchers into nature to judge , and we have travelled for many days together in the Countries of the Apennine Mountains with the Clouds continually about us , either a little over us , under us , or passing through them , not without admirable variety of prospect and from the top of a Mountain to see a valley with Houses , and Towns in it , and then the clouds creeping over the next hill to cover the whole valley between them , and make it look like a lake , and the top of the clouds gently waving , and to describe the Suns , rising , and coming to shine upon the upper parts of them , and to beauti●ie , and gild them all , is beyond the expression of words .

Virgil naming the Apennines , ranks them with Mount Erix in Sicicy , and Mount Athos in Greece .

Great as Mount Athos , or high Erix crown'd With those green Oakes , whose shaking boughs resound , Or Father Apennine , who loves to rise And list his Snowy head up to the Skies .

And indeed many of the Peaks of the Apennines are very high , and some of them covered with snow ; and others are rocky , but in general they are earthy , muddy , or full of clay ; whereby they stain and tincture the Tiber and many other Rivers which flow through them , and give an umber , brown , or dirty yellow colour to those streams , which being also for the most part very swift , the Apennine Rivers hereby lose much of their grace and beauty , and become also less serviceable ; and to speak the truth , not navigable with any pleasure : And this tincture which is communicated to them is of so deep a Dye in many places , that it is not easily altered or diluted , and I have seen divers Rivers run down from the Apennine with that force into the Adriatick , that the stream or colour of them is perfectly distinguished a mile or two into the Sea , as if the Gulf of Venice were painted in those places with a streight yellow stroke for two miles together .

We were told that the name of the hill which we here passed over was called , The Mountain of the Holy Cross , but the Mountain of the Cross , La montagne de la croix , much spoken of in the South part of France is one of the great Hills in the maritime Alpes , in one of the passages from Provence into Italy . The highest Mountain in the Apennine that I passed over , between Rome , and Loretto , was Mount Soma in Vmbra ; and the passage which pleased me most , was in the road from Turin , between Otagio and Genoa ; where after some difficulty having got up to the top of the Mountains , we saw Genoa , and the beautiful suburbs of St. Pietro di Arena under us at nine miles distance , and a vast tract of Sea before us , the Eastern Coast on the left hand , and the Western on the right , and descended by a broad way , and by large Windings and Turnings , upon the bare marble rock , meeting great numbers of Mules , and Mulets tossing up their Nets about their noses , which all together afforded an extraordinary prospect . But this Mountain of the Holy Cross is not rocky but all green , and it being the latter end of April we descended with ease and pleasure , and a good part of the way upon the grass , till we came to the Sea-side in the Evening , to Sestri or Sestro called by Daute in his Purgatory , Sisteri , formerly Segesta , at present Sestri di Levante , to distinguish it from Sestri di ponente , between Genoa and Savona : for the whole Coast of Genoa being divided into the East and the West , that which lyes between Genoa and Legorn is called La Riviera di Levante , and that between Genoa , and Provence , La Riviera di Ponente .

We hired a Felluca , at Sestri , and with the help of our Sayl and Oars , had a quick passage , Crossing first Porto Fin , and then keeping all along within half a mile of the Shoar , we entered the noted Port of Genoa , between the new Mole , on the right hand , and the old Mole , and Fanale or watch tower on the left , and went on shoar not far from the foot of the new Mole .