A
New
Voyage
TO
THE
LEVANT
.
LETTER
I.
SIR
,
I
must
beg
leave
to
complain
of
the
hardness
of
the
Task
you
impose
upon
me
,
by
requiring
me
to
give
you
an
exact
Relation
of
our
present
Campaign
,
with
the
Description
of
those
Cities
in
Germany
which
I
shall
have
occasion
to
visit
;
but
neither
the
Troublesomness
of
such
a
Correspondence
,
nor
the
Sence
of
my
own
Unfitness
to
Manage
it
,
shall
make
me
decline
an
Undertaking
by
which
I
may
convince
you
of
my
extream
desire
to
obtain
the
honour
of
your
Friendship
,
and
to
secure
my self
in
the
Possession
of
it
beyond
the
danger
or
fear
of
any
future
Alteration
.
I
shall
begin
,
then
,
with
acquainting
you
,
that
we
were
about
eight
Days
ago
quarter'd
in
a
City
call'd
Spire
,
which
is
now
a
heap
of
Stones
:
The
Inhabitants
have
been
threaten'd
these
three
Months
,
with
the
execution
of
that
fatal
Design
of
reducing
the
City
to
Ashes
,
and
during
that
time
liv'd
in
a
cruel
Uncertainty
,
and
perpetual
Fear
of
their
impending
Ruine
.
Spire
was
situated
in
the
Palatinate
of
the
Rhine
,
call'd
of
old
Nimetum
,
and
its
Inhabitants
Nimetes
;
it
was
the
Seat
of
the
Imperial
Chamber
,
compos'd
of
two
Presidents
,
one
a
Catholick
,
and
the
other
a
Protestant
;
and
fifteen
Counsellors
,
eight
of
the
Romish
,
and
seven
of
the
other
Persuasion
.
The
Elector
of
Triers
held
the
Bishoprick
of
that
City
,
the
Sovereignty
of
which
is
extended
over
several
fine
Territories
;
and
among
the
rest
,
Philipsburg
,
which
the
Emperor
was
oblig'd
to
restore
to
that
Prelate
,
by
the
Treaty
concluded
with
France
at
Triers
,
in
1685.
The
Cathedral
was
a
large
and
fine
Structure
,
well
furnish'd
with
Lights
,
and
adorn'd
with
great
Pyramidal
Towers
at
the
four
Corners
.
On
the
Right-side
of
the
Church
stood
the
Episcopal
Palace
,
famous
for
its
Architecture
,
and
enrich'd
on
the
Inside
with
a
great
variety
of
fine
Pictures
;
and
on
the
other
side
was
the
House
of
the
Canons
,
with
a
very
ancient
Cloyster
,
in
the
middle
of
which
there
was
a
Mount
of
Olives
cut
in
the
Rock
,
esteem'd
to
be
a
Master-piece
of
Sculpture
.
Before
the
Church
there
was
a
great
Court
or
void
Space
,
capable
of
containing
10000
Men
drawn
up
in
Battalia
.
All
the
Houses
that
surrounded
it
were
well
built
,
especially
that
of
the
Jesuits
,
which
fronted
the
Bishop's
Palace
,
where
those
Fathers
had
a
very
curious
Library
of
above
6000
Volumes
,
which
was
consum'd
in
the
general
Conflagration
of
the
City
;
with
five
or
six
others
belonging
to
private
Persons
that
were
no
less
considerable
.
The
Inhabitants
of
Spire
were
Rich
,
and
lovers
of
Pleasure
:
The
City
was
surrounded
with
a
great
number
of
Gardens
abundantly
furnish'd
with
every
thing
that
might
contribute
to
the
Advantage
and
Pleasure
of
the
Owners
;
for
besides
the
Beauty
of
the
Orange-Trees
which
were
preserv'd
there
notwithstanding
the
Coldness
of
the
Climate
;
and
the
various
Ornaments
of
cover'd
and
open'd
Walks
,
Flowers
,
Water-Works
,
and
Statues
;
there
was
a
great
abundance
of
all
sorts
of
Fruit-Trees
.
Every
Garden
had
also
the
convenience
of
a
Pleasure-House
,
very
handsomly
built
,
and
all
over
Painted
and
Gilt
after
the
German
Fashion
,
in
which
the
Gentlemen
of
Spire
pass'd
the
time
with
a
great
deal
of
Satisfaction
,
some
in
Drinking
,
and
others
in
more
charming
Diversions
.
The
Town-House
was
famous
for
its
Antiquity
,
which
was
said
to
amount
to
above
twelve
Ages
since
its
first
Foundation
,
but
had
nothing
else
to
recommend
it
to
the
Observation
of
Travellers
.
Before
the
Gate
there
hung
on
an
Iron-Ring
,
a
Bone
of
an
Arm
,
which
equall'd
a
Thigh-Bone
in
bigness
,
and
was
proportionably
long
.
'T
is
affirm'd
in
the
Records
of
the
City
,
that
the
Man
to
whom
that
Bone
belong'd
,
whose
Name
was
Olps
,
was
twenty
five
Foot
high
,
and
that
he
was
kill'd
about
1300
Years
agoe
in
a
Siege
against
the
Town
,
the
Ladder
breaking
under
him
as
he
was
scaling
the
Walls
;
which
gave
a
fair
Opportunity
to
the
Besieg'd
to
rid
themselves
of
so
formidable
an
Enemy
,
by
pouring
whole
Hogsheads
of
boiling
Pitch
upon
him
.
His
Hip-Bone
was
also
preserved
in
the
great
Hall
,
which
I
have
often
seen
,
without
giving
much
credit
to
the
Story
;
for
t
is
hard
to
conceive
,
that
a
Man
of
such
a
Gigantine
Stature
cou'd
have
escap'd
the
Obsrvation
of
Historians
.
To
return
to
Spire
;
The
City
was
taken
by
the
Dauphin
about
the
end
of
the
last
Year
,
(
when
he
made
himself
Master
of
Philipsburg
)
and
was
immediately
put
under
Contribution
;
and
besides
,
6000
Men
were
quarter'd
in
it
during
the
Winter
,
which
made
the
Inhabitants
believe
they
had
already
suffer'd
the
severest
Effects
of
their
Enemies
Fury
.
But
they
were
extremely
surpriz'd
,
when
in
the
last
Spring
they
were
commanded
to
raise
60000
Crowns
,
under
pain
of
Burning
.
This
rigorous
Order
cou'd
not
be
executed
without
reducing
'em
to
Beggary
;
for
Money
was
already
very
scarce
in
the
City
,
and
yet
those
Wretches
put
themselves
to
the
utmost
stretch
to
raise
the
Summ
;
which
they
had
no
sooner
paid
,
but
the
Baron
de
Monclair
caus'd
a
Proclamation
to
be
publish'd
with
Sound
of
Trumpet
,
commanding
all
the
Inhabitants
to
retire
with
their
Goods
,
because
the
Town
was
to
be
burnt
on
the
5
th
.
Day
after
the
publishing
of
the
Order
.
And
to
add
to
the
Cruelty
of
their
Punishment
,
they
were
not
suffer'd
to
pass
the
Rhine
,
where
they
might
have
found
some
Assistance
among
their
Friends
and
Relations
,
but
were
forc'd
to
retire
to
Alsace
,
among
the
French
,
who
treated
them
like
so
many
Beasts
,
without
the
least
Mark
of
Humanity
or
Compassion
.
After
all
these
Severities
,
they
might
have
found
some
Consolation
even
in
the
extremity
of
their
Affliction
,
if
they
had
been
furnish'd
with
Waggons
for
the
Transportation
of
their
Goods
;
but
they
were
not
to
expect
the
least
Favour
,
and
were
oblig'd
to
hire
Waggons
of
the
Peasants
and
Sutlers
,
who
,
taking
Advantage
of
their
Necessity
,
made
'em
pay
such
excessive
Rates
,
that
they
were
forc'd
to
leave
the
greatest
part
of
their
Goods
for
want
of
Carriage
.
In
that
time
of
Extremity
I
heard
some
of
those
miserable
Creatures
offer
fifteen
Crowns
a-day
for
the
use
of
a
Horse
,
that
might
have
been
bought
for
a
smaller
Summ.
Never
any
Man
beheld
so
touching
an
Object
as
was
occasion'd
by
the
Grief
and
Consternation
that
cover'd
every
Face
in
this
unfortunate
City
,
at
the
publishing
of
the
Burning-Order
.
Our
Eyes
and
Ears
were
every
where
saluted
with
Tears
and
Lamentations
;
the
Women
especially
mov'd
the
hardest
Hearts
with
Compassion
,
their
Despair
making
'em
tear
their
Hair
,
and
strike
their
Heads
against
the
Wall
.
At
last
the
fatal
Term
being
expir'd
,
they
were
forc'd
to
bid
a
lasting
Farewel
to
the
City
,
and
with
it
to
almost
all
their
Goods
and
Possessions
.
Then
their
Lamentations
began
afresh
,
and
their
Despair
appear'd
more
visibly
than
ever
;
nor
was
it
possible
for
any
Heart
that
was
not
entirely
divested
of
all
sence
of
Humanity
,
to
resist
the
Motions
of
Compassion
that
were
excited
at
the
sight
of
so
deplorable
an
Object
.
Noblemen
,
Tradesmen
,
the
Poor
and
the
Rich
,
began
their
doleful
March
,
without
any
Mark
of
Distinction
,
all
equally
Miserable
;
with
this
only
difference
,
that
the
Rich
were
more
sensible
of
their
Misfortunes
than
those
whose
Poverty
secur'd
'em
from
the
danger
of
considerable
Losses
.
I
'm
still
fill'd
with
Horrour
as
often
as
I
reflect
on
that
dismal
Spectacle
;
and
I
'm
confident
you
wou'd
not
be
less
deeply
touch'd
with
a
sence
of
the
irrecoverable
Ruine
of
so
many
innocent
Persons
,
if
you
had
been
an
Eye-Witness
of
it
.
You
cou'd
not
have
beheld
,
without
feeling
almost
the
same
Transports
of
Sorrow
,
two
or
three
hundred
Noble-women
and
Citizens
Wives
walking
on
foot
in
the
midst
of
an
Infinite
Crowd
of
People
,
and
most
of
'em
follow'd
by
five
or
six
small
Children
,
some
of
'em
hanging
at
the
Mother's
Breast
,
not
knowing
where
to
shelter
themselves
during
the
Night
,
nor
where
to
find
necessary
Refreshment
and
Sustenance
for
their
weary'd
Bodies
;
for
the
excessive
Contributions
that
were
exacted
from
'em
,
had
so
drain'd
their
Purses
,
that
three
quarters
of
'em
were
not
Masters
of
one
Peny
;
and
those
who
had
the
happiness
to
preserve
the
Remainders
of
their
Money
,
had
hid
it
under-ground
,
for
fear
of
being
robb'd
by
the
Soldiers
on
the
Road
,
as
several
of
'em
were
who
had
not
us'd
that
Precaution
.
After
their
Departure
,
the
Town
was
abandon'd
for
two
Days
to
the
Mercy
of
the
Soldiers
,
who
committed
a
Thousand
Sacrileges
;
for
hoping
to
find
some
hidden
Treasures
,
they
threw
down
the
Altars
,
dig'd
up
dead
Bodies
,
and
rif●●d
the
most
Ancient
and
Venerable
Tombs
,
without
sparing
those
of
an
Emperour
,
and
several
great
Princes
and
Prelates
that
were
in
the
Cathedral
,
which
they
turn'd
to
a
Stable
.
Places
burnt●
by
the
French
While
we
are
busi'd
in
demolishing
Spire
,
the
Queen's
Regiment
,
and
some
others
,
are
employ'd
in
the
same
Exercise
at
Manheim
,
a
small
City
built
by
Charles
Lewis
,
Elector
Palatine
,
who
had
the
conveniency
of
contriving
the
Fortifications
as
he
pleas'd
.
All
the
Houses
were
exactly
uniform
,
and
the
four
Gates
might
be
seen
at
once
from
the
Place
of
Arms
in
the
midst
of
the
Town
.
This
was
so
important
and
advantageous
a
Post
,
that
Monsieur
Vauban
said
one
Day
to
the
King
,
That
whatever
Prince
was
Master
of
Manheim
and
Philipsburg
,
might
at
once
maintain
a
War
against
his
Majesty
and
the
Emperour
.
The
Baroness
of
Aiguenfeld
,
the
second
Wife
,
or
(
if
you
will
)
the
Mistress
of
that
Elector
,
was
buri●d
in
this
City
:
And
our
Soldiers
not
only
broke
open
her
Tomb
,
but
threw
her
Bones
without
the
Walls
.
The
Dutchess
of
Orleans
pretends
to
have
receiv'd
several
ill
Offices
from
that
Lady
;
but
I
'm
the
less
inclinable
to
think
that
she
was
accessory
to
such
an
inhuman
Action
,
when
I
consider
her
Kindness
to
the
Rhograves
,
that
Barone●s's
Children
.
Worms
,
Frankendal
,
Ladenburg
,
Openheim
,
and
Keidiscum
,
are
under
the
same
Sentence
that
has
been
executed
on
Manheim
and
Spire
:
But
since
I
never
was
in
any
of
those
Places
,
I
cannot
gratifie
your
Curiosity
with
an
exact
Description
of
'em
,
only
I
can
inform
you
that
they
were
considerable
Towns
,
and
that
they
are
either
already
demolish'd
,
or
will
be
quickly
reduc'd
to
such
a
Condition
,
that
all
that
can
be
henceforth
said
of
'em
is
,
Here
stood
Worms
,
Spire
,
Manheim
,
&c.
These
,
Sir
,
are
all
the
remarkable
Transactions
with
which
I
can
at
present
acquaint
you
;
I
am
,
SIR
,
Your
&c.
From
the
Camp
at
Spire
,
June
1689.
LETTER
II.
SIR
,
I
Hope
this
Letter
will
in
some
measure
atone
for
my
long
Silence
,
and
convince
you
that
my
Neglect
was
not
the
only
Cause
of
my
not
writing
to
you
once
every
Month
,
according
to
your
Desire
:
For
I
concluded
that
a
compleat
Relation
of
the
Compaign
wou'd
be
a
more
acceptable
Present
to
you
,
than
if
I
had
sent
you
from
time
to
time
some
interrupted
and
ill-connected
Accounts
of
it
.
Besides
,
I
was
so
little
Master
of
my
Time
during
the
whole
Month
of
August
,
that
you
cannot
with
Justice
refuse
to
put
a
less
severe
Construction
on
my
Silence
:
And
I
'm
confident
that
after
you
have
read
the
Account
of
my
Misfortunes
in
the
beginning
of
this
Month
,
you
will
esteem
me
a
fitter
Object
of
your
Compassion
than
Anger
.
Perhaps
you
little
expected
to
hear
of
my
Confinement
to
a
close
Prison
for
fifteen
Days
;
but
I
can
assure
you
,
that
if
the
Marquess
D'Efiat
had
not
vouchsaf'd
me
his
Protection
,
and
clear'd
me
of
all
my
suspected
Crimes
,
in
a
Letter
to
Monsieur
de
Chamilly
,
for
ought
I
know
,
I
might
have
been
still
in
the
same
Condition
.
But
before
I
give
you
a
particular
Account
of
that
Accident
,
the
Order
of
time
obliges
me
to
entertain
you
with
a
Relation
of
our
Warlike
Expeditions
.
While
our
Army
,
in
July
,
lay
quiet
,
the
Elector
of
Brandenburg
attack'd
and
took
Keiserwaert
:
And
we
were
afterwards
inform'd
,
that
,
not
content
with
that
Success
,
he
sate
down
before
Bonn
;
and
that
Mentz
was
invested
by
the
Dukes
of
Bavaria
and
Lorrain
,
with
an
Army
of
Seventy
thousand
Men
,
which
oblig'd
us
to
make
a
Diversion
in
the
Palatinate
:
And
that
Design
was
executed
with
so
much
Fury
and
Cruelty
,
that
Posterity
will
hardly
ever
give
credit
to
that
part
of
the
History
of
our
Age.
We
pass●d
the
Rhine
at
Philips●urg
on
a
Bridge
of
Boats
,
in
the
beginning
of
August
.
I
need
not
tell
you
that
this
City
was
surrender'd
to
the
Dauphin
on
his
Birth-day
(
Novemb.
1.
)
which
he
render'd
famous
by
his
first
Conquest
:
But
I
cannot
forbear
doing
Justice
to
the
Bravery
and
Greatness
of
Mind
which
he
shew'd
on
that
Occasion
.
For
he
was
everywhere
present
,
and
neither
gave
his
Orders
by
Proxy
,
nor
suffer'd
any
thing
to
be
done
without
his
Knowledge
.
Philipsburg
is
a
very
inconsiderable
Town
,
scarce
able
to
contain
a
numerous
Garison
,
nor
can
it
boast
of
one
remarkable
House
,
but
that
which
belongs
to
the
Governour
.
But
,
notwithstanding
those
Defects
,
't
is
a
place
of
great
importance
,
both
by
reason
of
its
Situation
between
the
Rhine
and
a
large
and
deep
Marsh
,
and
its
numerous
Fortifications
.
There
was
a
Redoubt
on
the
other
side
of
the
Rhine
to
defend
the
Passage
of
the
River
,
which
the
Dauphin
took
in
two
Days
:
But
there
are
so
many
new
Works
added
,
that
it
may
be
call'd
more
properly
a
considerable
Fort
than
a
simple
Redoubt
.
The
next
Day
we
encamp'd
before
Heydelberg
,
which
we
invested
on
the
side
next
the
Rhine
.
This
City
was
part
of
our
last
Year's
Conquests
,
and
had
paid
Contributions
two
or
three
times
.
Some
of
our
Troops
had
their
Winter-Quarters
in
it
,
and
possess'd
it
without
the
least
Disturbance
till
the
Spring
,
when
by
an
unaccountable
sort
of
Policy
,
we
blew
up
the
Castle
,
and
left
the
Town
(
I
think
)
on
purpose
that
we
might
have
the
pleasure
of
Besieging
it
two
Months
after
:
For
you
must
not
imagine
because
the
Trenches
were
not
open'd
,
that
the
Siege
was
never
really
intended
,
since
't
is
plain
from
reason
that
we
sate
down
before
it
with
that
design
,
because
we
cou'd
not
have
chosen
a
more
probable
way
to
divert
the
Imperial
Forces
:
And
besides
,
't
is
certain
that
Monsieur
de
Duras
had
given
Orders
for
a
general
Assault
the
Day
on
which
the
Place
was
reliev'd
by
a
Detachment
of
3000
Men
,
who
enter'd
the
Town
with
several
Boats
laden
with
Ammunition
,
and
all
sorts
of
necessary
Provisions
.
However
,
our
Army
,
consisting
of
25000
Men
,
with
45
Pieces
of
Cannon
,
lay
seven
Days
before
it
,
during
which
time
we
lost
8
or
900
good
Soldiers
,
besides
several
Officers
;
and
were
at
last
forc'd
to
leave
a
defenceless
Town
,
that
might
have
been
storm'd
with
Sword
in
Hand
the
first
Night
we
sate
down
before
it
:
For
we
had
already
ruin'd
those
inconsiderable
Fortifications
that
defended
it
,
before
we
left
it
in
the
Spring
:
And
at
the
same
time
we
blew
up
the
Castle
,
or
at
least
the
best
part
of
it
,
in
which
alone
the
strength
of
the
Place
consisted
.
Nevertheless
all
its
Defects
might
have
been
corrected
by
an
industrious
Master
:
And
besides
,
it
must
be
acknowledg'd
to
be
a
Place
of
great
Importance
,
if
we
consider
the
Advantages
of
its
Situation
;
for
it
wou'd
have
open'd
a
Passage
on
the
Neckar
,
and
made
us
Masters
of
the
whole
Country
as
far
as
Franckfort
.
Heydelberg
is
the
Chief
City
of
the
Palatinate
of
the
Rhine
,
seated
on
the
Neckar
,
in
a
Bottom
betwixt
two
Hills
.
The
Castle
where
the
Electors
formerly
resided
,
stands
on
a
Hillock
that
commands
the
Town
,
and
has
the
Advantage
of
a
lovely
,
but
of
late
neglected
Garden
.
The
Strangers
that
pass'd
thro'
this
City
never
fail'd
to
pay
a
Visit
to
the
famous
Tun
,
of
above
a
hundred
Years
standing
,
and
were
usually
receiv'd
with
the
●●llkom
▪
which
is
a
Glass
containing
about
two
Quarts
.
The
French
,
who
quarter'd
here
during
the
Winter
,
were
so
sensible
of
the
Charms
of
that
hospitable
Vessel
,
that
they
left
not
one
Drop
in
it
,
tho'
it
contain'd
above
300
Hogsheads
of
Wine
.
Near
the
City
there
is
a
fair
Church
,
consisting
of
three
several
Vaults
,
under
which
the
Catholicks
,
Lutherans
,
and
Calvinists
perform
Divine
Service
.
It
was
built
by
Charles
Lewis
,
Elector
Palatine
,
who
nam'd
it
The
Temple
of
Concord
,
to
put
his
Subjects
in
mind
that
their
Temporal
Safety
depended
on
their
Union
;
and
that
a
diversity
of
Interests
was
not
a
necessary
Consequence
of
Difference
in
Religion
.
This
City
was
formerly
Mistress
of
one
of
the
finest
Libraries
in
the
World
,
which
she
possess'd
till
the
Year
1622
,
when
Count
Tilly
having
taken
the
City
,
sent
part
of
the
Books
to
Rome
,
while
the
rest
were
dispers'd
like
those
of
Alexandria
,
to
the
irreparable
Loss
of
the
learned
World
;
since
no
other
Library
contain'd
so
numerous
a
Collection
of
rare
Manuscripts
.
The
City
being
secur●d
by
a
seasonable
Relief
from
our
intended
Assault
,
we
decamp'd
on
the
9
th
.
before
Day
,
and
having
march'd
two
Leagues
,
arriv●d
about
eight
a-clock
at
the
little
Town
of
Wiseloch
,
which
we
burnt
in
our
Passage
,
after
we
had
thrust
out
the
Inhabitants
.
Sinsennes
,
and
several
other
Villages
,
met
with
the
same
Treatment
from
our
Dragoons
,
who
were
always
entrusted
with
these
fiery
Commissions
.
These
Ministers
of
our
Fury
allow'd
no
longer
respite
to
the
Places
they
were
order'd
to
destroy
,
than
what
might
give
'em
leisure
to
plunder
the
best
Effects
of
the
Inhabitants
,
ravish
their
Wives
and
Daughters
,
and
commit
a
thousand
other
Disorders
.
The
Fame
of
our
Cruelties
was
quickly
spread
over
the
Countries
of
Wirtemberg
and
Baden
,
and
drove
away
all
the
Inhabitants
of
the
Towns
and
Villages
to
which
we
approach'd
;
who
fled
from
us
as
from
the
Enemies
and
Destroyers
of
Mankind
,
endeavouring
to
save
their
Lives
in
the
Woods
and
Forests
,
where
many
of
'em
seeking
to
avoid
one
kind
of
Death
,
met
with
another
no
less
terrible
,
and
chose
rather
to
be
starv'd
than
kill'd
;
so
that
from
hence-forward
during
our
whole
March
,
we
found
not
one
Person
,
either
in
the
Towns
or
Country
thro'
which
we
pass'd
.
Only
Weingarten
and
Bruchsal
pretended
to
stop
our
Career
;
but
two
Days
after
they
were
constrain'd
to
Surrender
,
and
both
the
Garrisons
and
Inhabitants
were
made
Prisoners
of
War
,
and
the
Towns
were
treated
with
the
same
Severity
with
those
that
were
formerly
mention'd
,
by
the
Troops
that
enter'd
into
'em
.
At
the
same
time
Monsieur
de
Boufflers
,
who
commanded
a
Flying
Camp
,
came
before
a
little
Town
call'd
Cocheim
,
in
which
there
was
a
Garrison
of
600
Men
,
and
fearing
least
the
Place
shou'd
be
reliev'd
,
immediately
gave
Orders
for
an
Assault
,
which
was
carry'd
on
and
receiv'd
with
equal
Vigour
and
Bravery
.
The
Action
lasted
two
Hours
,
after
which
our
Men
were
oblig'd
to
retire
;
but
the
Major
,
who
commanded
in
the
Town
,
contenting
himself
with
so
remarkable
a
Success
,
and
concluding
that
the
Courage
of
the
French
Troops
was
so
well
cool'd
,
that
they
wou'd
hardly
venture
to
return
to
a
place
where
they
had
met
with
so
rough
a
Treatment
,
instead
of
taking
Measures
to
prevent
a
Surprize
,
went
to
recruit
his
Spirits
after
so
hot
an
Action
,
with
a
Glass
of
his
beloved
Wine
:
In
the
mean
time
Monsieur
de
Boufflers
,
upon
a
Signal
which
was
made
to
him
by
some
Traytors
in
the
Town
,
commanded
his
Dragoons
to
renew
the
Attack
,
which
they
did
with
greater
Vigour
than
before
,
and
storming
the
Town
,
ran
to
the
place
of
Arms
,
with
their
Swords
in
their
Hands
,
where
they
found
the
Garrison
drawn
up
in
Battalia
,
whom
they
put
to
the
Sword
,
not
allowing
them
the
benefit
of
Quarter
.
The
Slaughter
lasted
three
Hours
,
during
which
,
Men
,
Women
,
and
Children
were
kill'd
without
Mercy
:
Nor
could
the
Fury
of
the
Soldiers
be
stopp'd
till
the
General
had
by
repeated
Orders
commanded
'em
to
put
an
end
to
the
Massacre
.
They
were
Masters
of
the
Art
of
squeezing
Money
even
out
of
those
who
had
none
,
which
they
had
learn'd
in
France
,
at
the
expence
of
the
poor
Protestants
;
and
here
they
display'd
all
their
Skill
,
using
the
Inhabitants
with
the
utmost
Barbarity
,
to
make
'em
discover
their
Treasures
.
From
thence
Monsieur
de
Boufflers
,
continuing
his
March
and
his
Cruelties
,
burnt
entirely
the
Towns
of
Keyseresch
,
Dhonu
,
Hellesheim
,
Meyem
,
Ulman
,
Kerpen
,
and
all
the
other
Cities
and
Villages
of
that
Country
,
which
oblig'd
the
Elector
of
Brandenburg
to
detach
10000
Men
,
under
the
command
of
General
Schonen
,
to
give
him
Battle
;
but
that
Unfaithful
Officer
communicated
the
Orders
he
had
receiv'd
to
the
Marquess
de
Boufflers
,
who
immediately
retir'd
to
Philipsburg
.
In
the
mean
time
we
were
no
less
careful
than
Boufflers's
Dragoons
to
act
the
part
of
brave
Incendiaries
,
and
continu'd
our
March
from
Bruchsal
to
●aden
and
Durlach
,
where
we
found
the
Ware-Houses
,
Shops
,
and
Houses
full
of
Commodities
and
Furniture
,
but
altogether
void
of
Inhabitants
,
who
were
taught
by
the
Misfortunes
of
their
Neighbours
,
not
to
expect
our
Visit
.
The
Pillage
lasted
two
Days
;
after
which
the
Cities
were
set
on
Fire
,
after
the
laudable
Custom
of
this
Campaign
.
Baden
is
situated
in
Suabia
,
and
gives
the
Title
of
Marquess
to
a
Family
,
the
Head
of
which
is
a
Prince
of
the
Empire
on
a
double
Account
,
both
by
his
Birth
,
which
is
Ancient
and
Illustrious
,
and
by
his
Principality
,
which
gives
him
a
Voice
in
the
Diets
of
the
Empire
.
The
Town
was
Rich
,
embellish'd
with
fine
Houses
,
fair
Streets
,
and
lovely
Gardens
;
and
besides
had
the
Advantage
of
the
most
remarkable
Baths
in
Europe
.
The
Princess
of
Baden
left
no
means
on
her
side
to
preserve
their
City
;
she
sollicited
the
General
and
the
King
himself
,
and
offer'd
to
demolish
the
Walls
;
but
all
her
Endeavours
cou'd
not
procure
the
least
Mitigation
of
its
Doom
,
and
Baden
was
laid
in
Ashes
,
as
well
as
its
Neighbouring
Towns
.
Four
Leagues
from
hence
lay
Durlach
,
call'd
in
Latine
,
Durlacum
,
which
gives
some
Title
of
Honour
,
to
the
Younger
Branch
of
the
House
of
Baden
,
who
have
also
a
Voice
in
the
Diets
.
It
was
in
my
Opinion
a
larger
and
fairer
Town
than
Baden
,
inhabited
by
several
rich
Merchants
,
and
a
considerable
number
of
Persons
of
Quality
,
and
adorn'd
with
many
magnificent
Structures
,
which
I
had
not
time
to
consider
at
leisure
,
before
the
fatal
Sentence
was
executed
upon
'em
.
The
Castle
particularly
was
a
stately
Edifice
;
a
magnificent
Portal
open'd
a
Passage
into
a
vast
Court
;
from
whence
we
ascended
by
a
broad
Stair-Case
,
to
a
large
Hall
,
out
of
which
you
might
pass
into
the
Apartments
appointed
for
Winter
and
Summer
,
and
all
the
other
Seasons
.
The
Furniture
of
all
these
Apartments
was
very
rich
,
and
well-contriv'd
,
at
least
as
far
as
I
cou'd
judge
by
what
was
left
;
for
the
most
precious
Part
of
it
,
with
all
the
Plate
,
was
remov'd
;
only
there
remain'd
several
Pieces
of
very
fine
Tapestry
richly
Wrought
,
Embroider'd
Silk
Beds
of
great
Value
,
and
some
of
Gold
and
Silver
;
Tables
and
Cabinets
of
China-Work
,
Looking-Glasses
,
magnificent
Lamps
of
Chrystal
,
and
several
other
Ornaments
of
the
same
Nature
;
which
inspir'd
the
Beholder
with
a
great
Idea
of
the
Richness
of
that
part
of
the
Furniture
which
was
remov'd
.
The
Platfond
of
the
Library
was
enrich'd
with
Gilding
and
very
curious
Paintings
,
and
it
contain'd
between
four
and
five
thousand
Volumes
;
adjoining
to
this
were
two
Cabinets
full
of
Papers
rank'd
from
top
to
bottom
in
very
good
Order
.
The
dispositions
of
the
Gardens
were
suitable
to
the
Beauty
of
the
House
,
and
the
Eye
was
every
where
saluted
with
Objects
of
Pleasure
;
but
all
those
Beauties
were
consum'd
by
the
merciless
Fire
,
and
reduc'd
to
a
few
Heaps
of
Ashes
,
and
dismal
Ruines
.
During
our
abode
here
,
the
Germans
,
who
had
made
a
Detachment
of
Two
or
Three
thousand
Men
to
disturb
us
,
took
some
of
our
Men
,
with
Two
hundred
Horses
that
were
Forraging
in
the
Country
.
They
had
done
the
same
at
Sinsennes
,
and
besides
a
terrible
Sickness
made
such
a
prodigious
Havock
among
our
Troops
,
that
when
we
arriv'd
at
Strasburg
we
were
forc'd
to
send
above
Six
thousand
Men
to
the
Hospital
,
which
lessen'd
our
Army
to
such
a
Degree
,
that
the
Number
of
those
who
were
render'd
useless
by
the
Sickness
,
with
those
who
were
kill'd
at
Heydelberg
,
Bruch●al
,
and
Weingarten
amounted
to
11000
Men
,
of
which
there
were
at
least
5000
dead
,
without
reckoning
above
1000
Horses
,
that
were
either
taken
from
us
,
or
dy'd
by
the
Way
;
for
the
ill
Weather
that
had
lasted
during
the
whole
Campaign
,
had
so
weaken'd
and
spoil'd
'em
,
that
only
such
who
were
very
well
mounted
were
Masters
of
a
Horse
fit
for
Service
.
To
return
to
our
March
;
We
decamp'd
from
Durlach
,
and
leaving
Fort-Lewis
on
our
Right-hand
,
which
is
a
strong
and
well-fortify'd
Place
,
built
by
the
King's
Order
,
we
arriv'd
before
Stolof
,
the
only
Town
that
escap'd
the
utmost
Marks
of
our
Fury
;
for
the
Magistrates
,
to
appease
Monsieur
de
Duras
,
presented
him
with
the
Summ
of
50000
Crowns
,
which
prevail'd
so
far
on
his
good
Nature
,
that
he
contented
himself
with
ordering
the
Town
to
be
pillag'd
,
and
the
Walls
to
be
demolish'd
.
Two
days
after
we
arriv'd
near
Strasburg
,
where
I
was
constrain'd
to
leave
the
Army
,
in
a
manner
that
was
not
very
agreeable
to
my
Humour
.
I
was
struck
with
so
much
Horrour
,
when
I
reflected
on
the
Barbarities
,
and
the
Desolation
of
so
many
Towns
of
which
I
had
been
an
Eye-witness
,
and
sometimes
an
Instrument
,
that
I
cou'd
not
forbear
expressing
my
Indignation
,
and
was
therefore
look'd
upon
as
a
suspicious
Person
by
some
of
our
most
resolute
Burners
.
It
happen'd
one
day
,
that
being
engag'd
in
a
pretty
warm
Dispute
with
some
Officers
that
were
none
of
my
best
Friends
,
at
the
General
's
Quarters
,
I
handl'd
those
nice
Points
with
a
great
deal
of
Freedom
,
and
plainly
told
'em
my
Opinion
of
the
Revolution
in
England
,
and
of
the
Difference
between
King
William's
Way
of
making
War
,
and
that
which
was
in
Fashion
among
us
.
So
bold
a
Declaration
of
my
Sentiments
,
procur'd
me
the
Title
of
the
Prince
of
Orange's
Spy
;
and
Complaints
were
made
against
me
to
the
Count
de
Marsin
,
Commander
of
the
Brigade
,
who
order'd
me
to
be
apprehended
,
and
carry'd
to
Strasburg
;
tho'
I
must
own
my self
oblig'd
to
him
,
that
he
forbore
putting
me
in
the
Mercy
of
a
Council
of
War
,
till
he
shou'd
receive
a
clearer
Information
of
my
Crime
;
in
order
to
which
he
commanded
my
Trunks
to
be
seiz'd
,
where
he
found
nothing
to
confirm
his
Suspicions
,
but
a
Book
of
Psalms
,
which
was
a
sufficient
Demonstration
(
of
what
I
did
not
deny
)
that
I
had
been
a
Hugonot
.
But
the
Marquess
d'
Efiat
had
the
Generosity
(
as
I
told
you
before
)
to
give
me
so
favourable
a
Character
in
a
Letter
which
he
wrote
to
Monsieur
de
Chamilly
on
this
Occasion
,
that
I
was
set
at
Liberty
after
an
Imprisonment
of
fifteen
Days
,
without
any
other
Punishment
,
than
that
I
was
oblig'd
to
hear
the
tedious
Exhortations
of
certain
Jesuits
and
Capuchins
,
to
whom
I
promis'd
to
be
a
Good
Catholick
for
the
future
.
We
are
inform'd
that
Mentz
was
surrender'd
on
the
8
th
.
instant
,
notwithstanding
the
brave
Resistance
made
by
the
Marquess
d'
Uxelles
,
Governour
of
the
Place
,
who
perform'd
on
this
occasion
,
all
that
cou'd
be
expected
from
a
Man
of
Courage
and
an
experienc'd
Captain
;
and
defended
a
Place
which
is
not
very
considerable
for
its
Strength
,
against
a
numerous
Army
commanded
by
two
Princes
,
on
whom
,
without
running
the
hazard
of
being
accus'd
of
Flattery
,
I
may
bestow
the
glorious
Title
of
Heroes
.
'T
is
true
he
lost
a
great
number
of
Men
;
but
none
that
are
acquainted
with
Affairs
of
this
Nature
,
will
be
surpriz'd
at
the
lessening
of
the
Numbers
of
a
Garrison
that
turn
the
War
upon
their
Besiegers
,
and
make
three
vigorous
Sallies
in
one
Day
.
The
most
considerable
Loss
they
sustain'd
,
was
occasion'd
by
the
general
Assault
of
the
Counterscarp
,
on
the
7
th
.
instant
in
the
Evening
,
which
lasted
five
Hours
,
and
was
both
carry'd
on
,
and
receiv'd
with
such
an
obstinate
Fury
,
that
few
old
Soldiers
can
pretend
to
have
seen
so
warm
a
Dispute
.
But
at
last
the
Besieg'd
were
forc'd
to
retire
,
their
Powder
failing
,
and
most
of
their
Musquets
being
split
;
and
the
Imperialists
lodg'd
themselves
on
the
Counterscarp
,
and
began
to
fill
up
the
Ditch
,
in
order
to
assault
the
Town
,
which
oblig'd
the
Governour
to
beat
a
Parley
,
and
Capitulate
.
The
Garrison
march'd
out
with
their
Arms
and
Baggage
,
Drums
beating
,
Colours
flying
,
Matches
lighted
,
and
their
Bullets
in
their
Mouths
,
with
six
Pieces
of
Cannon
,
and
two
Mortars
.
I
hear
the
King
was
so
well
satisfi'd
with
the
Marquess
d'
Uxelles's
Conduct
on
this
Occasion
,
that
he
thought
he
ow'd
him
no
less
a
Recompence
for
making
so
brave
a
Defence
,
than
the
Government
of
Luxemburg
,
which
is
one
of
the
most
important
Places
in
his
Dominions
,
besides
a
Gratuity
of
1200
Crowns
,
which
he
has
already
receiv'd
.
Nor
cou'd
his
Majesty
have
chosen
a
more
deserving
Object
of
his
Favour
;
for
the
Marquess
d'
Uxelles
is
not
only
an
excellent
Captain
,
but
in
all
other
respects
a
well-accomplish'd
Person
.
I
never
heard
that
he
was
accus'd
of
any
other
Crimes
,
but
Haughtiness
to
his
Inferiour
Officers
,
and
an
Inclination
to
certain
Pleasures
that
were
brought
into
Fashion
about
20
or
30
Years
ago
:
but
I
am
so
far
from
pretending
to
warrant
the
Truth
of
these
Accusations
,
that
I
must
confess
I
believe
'em
to
be
meer
malicious
Aspersions
.
We
have
also
receiv'd
Advice
,
That
Bonn
is
very
much
straiten'd
;
so
that
if
the
King
lose
that
Place
,
he
will
only
retain
Philipsburg
,
of
all
the
Conquests
his
Son
made
last
Year
.
In
the
mean
time
I
must
tell
you
,
with
all
the
sincerity
of
a
Friend
,
that
my
late
unjust
Imprisonment
has
mightily
cool'd
my
Affection
to
the
French
Service
;
and
besides
,
as
young
as
I
am
,
my
Thoughts
aspire
sometimes
to
more
solid
Objects
than
bare
Pleasure
.
I
'm
e'en
resolv'd
then
in
good
earnest
to
encrease
the
number
of
the
Refugees
;
and
I
'm
not
a
little
confirm'd
in
that
Resolution
,
by
a
seasonable
supply
of
Money
I
have
just
now
receiv'd
.
I
have
no
other
Business
at
present
,
than
to
put
things
in
Order
for
my
Departure
;
intending
to
begin
my
Journey
in
few
Days
,
on
the
only
Horse
I
'm
now
Master
of
,
for
my
Servant
carry'd
away
the
other
two
,
which
was
my
whole
Equipage
.
I
design
in
the
first
place
to
visit
Geneva
,
and
there
to
expect
a
fresh
Recruit
of
Money
,
before
I
begin
my
remoter
Travels
.
I
remember
I
have
heard
you
express
a
desire
to
be
more
particularly
acquainted
with
Strasburg
,
than
the
Accounts
you
have
hitherto
receiv'd
of
it
cou'd
make
you
;
and
therefore
I
shall
take
this
Occasion
to
satisfie
your
Curiosity
before
I
finish
my
Letter
.
Strasburg
is
a
large
City
,
very
well
built
,
after
the
German
Fashion
,
seated
at
the
end
of
a
vast
and
fertil
Field
,
extremely
smooth
and
level
,
so
that
you
may
discover
the
City
from
the
Mountains
of
Saverne
,
which
are
eight
Leagues
distant
from
it
.
'T
is
wash'd
by
the
River
Ill
,
and
divided
into
the
Old
and
and
New
City
by
the
Beusche
;
and
both
these
Rivers
fall
into
the
Rhine
,
which
is
but
a
quarter
of
a
League
distant
from
the
Town
.
The
Bishop
of
this
place
is
Suffragan
to
the
Elector
of
Mentz
;
and
at
present
the
Cardinal
of
Furstemberg
is
Bishop
of
Strasburg
by
the
Mercy
of
God
,
and
of
the
Crown
of
France
.
The
Count
of
Chamilly
,
Lieutenant-General
of
his
Majesty's
Armies
,
is
Governour
,
and
Monsieur
de
Labadie
formerly
Major
,
was
made
the
King's
Lieutenant
since
I
came
to
the
City
.
'T
is
a
very
ancient
City
,
but
was
never
acknowledged
for
a
Republick
till
the
time
of
Luther
,
whose
Doctrine
it
receiv'd
:
And
its
Rights
were
never
since
disputed
till
the
Year
1682
,
when
the
King
made
himself
Master
of
it
,
as
a
Dependence
,
or
rather
the
Capital
City
of
Alsace
,
which
belongs
to
him
by
Virtue
of
the
Treaty
of
Munster
.
You
are
not
unacquainted
with
the
Methods
that
were
taken
to
justifie
his
Pretensions
.
The
Eyes
of
some
of
the
principal
Burgomasters
were
so
well
enlighten'd
with
the
Summ
of
100000
Crowns
,
that
all
their
Doubts
were
clear'd
in
a
Moment
;
and
those
Conscientious
Magistrates
put
his
Majesty
in
possession
of
a
Place
to
which
he
had
asserted
his
Right
by
such
convincing
Arguments
,
with
all
the
Self-denial
and
Disinteressedness
that
cou'd
be
desir'd
.
But
this
Restauration
was
not
made
with
the
Unanimous
Consent
of
the
Citizens
,
the
greatest
part
of
whom
bewail'd
,
and
continue
still
to
bewail
the
Loss
of
their
Liberty
,
which
,
next
the
Sovereign
Good
,
ought
to
be
the
dearest
Blessing
to
all
generous
Minds
.
Nor
are
their
Complaints
ill-grounded
;
for
they
have
been
extremely
harras'd
of
late
,
and
even
their
Religion
cou'd
not
escape
the
Fury
of
their
new
Masters
.
I
know
not
what
Excuse
can
be
pretended
for
so
manifest
a
Violation
of
the
Rights
of
a
free
City
,
that
submitted
on
Condition
that
its
Liberty
,
and
all
its
other
Privileges
,
shou'd
be
preserv'd
intire
.
Besides
,
if
they
be
only
consider'd
as
Natives
of
Alsace
,
what
plausible
Reason
can
be
alledg'd
why
they
shou'd
be
treated
with
greater
Severity
than
the
rest
of
their
Neighbours
?
Has
not
the
King
an
equal
Right
to
the
whole
Province
?
and
why
shou'd
Strasburg
be
singl'd
out
for
the
Object
of
his
Indignation
,
since
there
are
several
less
considerable
Places
in
Alsace
,
whose
Privileges
are
suffer'd
to
remain
untouch'd
?
Thus
,
for
Example
,
the
Inhabitants
of
St.
Mary
aux
Mines
,
in
the
German
part
of
Lorrain
,
continue
still
in
the
enjoyment
of
their
ancient
Rights
;
the
River
separates
the
Precinct
of
the
Protestants
from
that
of
the
Catholicks
:
The
same
Privileges
are
common
both
to
the
Priests
and
Ministers
,
and
they
live
in
a
peaceful
Union
without
incroaching
upon
one
another
.
I
was
inform'd
by
the
Guardian
of
the
Co●deliers
in
that
place
,
that
when
the
Queen
came
thither
,
in
her
Journey
to
receive
the
Dauphiness
,
she
resolv'd
to
build
a
Chapel
,
in
performance
of
a
Vow
she
had
made
,
and
appointed
the
Place
where
it
shou'd
be
erected
in
the
Territory
of
the
Protestants
,
who
immediately
came
to
beg
her
Majesty
not
to
violate
their
Privileges
,
which
they
shew'd
her
;
and
she
was
so
well
satisfy'd
with
the
Justice
of
their
Desire
,
that
she
was
easily
prevail'd
with
to
countermand
her
former
Orders
.
And
I
can
assure
you
,
that
the
Privileges
of
that
paltry
Village
are
still
preserv'd
with
so
little
innovation
,
that
I
have
seen
with
my
own
Eyes
the
Catholicks
and
Protestants
perform
Divine
Service
by
Turns
in
the
Parochial
Church
.
But
it
seems
the
People
of
Strasburg
were
not
thought
worthy
of
so
favourable
a
Treatment
.
The
Protestants
,
who
were
sole
Masters
of
the
Cathedral
,
were
compell'd
to
give
place
to
the
Catholicks
,
who
are
at
present
possess'd
both
of
that
and
most
other
Churches
in
the
City
,
tho'
about
twelve
Years
ago
they
cou'd
only
pretend
a
Right
to
a
Chapel
that
belongs
to
the
Order
of
Malta
.
This
is
certainly
one
of
the
fairest
Churches
in
Europe
;
and
I
may
venture
to
say
,
that
its
Steeple
cannot
be
parrallel'd
in
the
whole
World
:
This
magnificent
Tower
is
contriv'd
with
wonderful
Art
,
and
the
Stones
are
all
exactly
cut
into
several
Figures
,
which
charm
the
Eye
of
the
Spectator
:
Its
heights
amounts
to
560
Foot
,
and
its
breadth
to
52
;
the
Doors
are
of
Brass
,
and
proportionable
to
the
largeness
of
the
Building
.
Since
the
Catholicks
became
Masters
of
it
,
they
have
built
a
great
Altar
,
according
to
the
Modern
way
,
in
the
Floor
of
the
Nave
,
which
is
of
a
Triangular
Figure
,
with
large
Marble
Columns
at
the
Angles
,
supporting
a
Dome
adorn'd
with
many
Basso-relievo's
,
and
fine
Paintings
.
The
Tabernacle
is
in
the
middle
of
the
Altar
,
enrich'd
with
excellent
Sculptures
;
and
all
the
other
Ornaments
are
Beautiful
beyond
the
possibility
of
Improvement
.
But
all
the
Charms
of
so
rare
a
Piece
of
Workmanship
cannot
long
detain
the
Spectator
from
satisfying
his
Curiosity
with
a
View
of
that
admirable
Clock
built
by
the
Chapter
,
which
marks
the
Minutes
,
Hours
,
Days
of
the
Month
and
Week
,
the
Age
of
the
Moon
,
Signs
of
the
Zodiack
,
and
the
Centuries
or
Ages
of
the
World
,
by
a
Wheel
that
performs
only
one
Round
in
the
space
of
a
hundred
Years
.
If
you
wou'd
have
the
pleasure
to
behold
all
the
Beauties
of
the
Clock
,
you
must
wait
till
Noon
,
when
the
twelve
Apostles
appear
,
and
each
knocks
with
a
Hammer
on
the
Bell.
The
striking
of
this
,
as
well
as
of
all
the
rest
of
the
Hours
,
is
preceded
by
the
crowing
of
a
Cock
,
who
claps
'
his
Wings
,
stretches
out
his
Neck
,
and
Crows
so
naturally
,
that
if
your
Eyes
did
not
convince
you
that
he
is
made
of
Copper
,
you
wou'd
certainly
conclude
him
to
be
really
that
which
he
represents
.
Immediately
after
the
History
of
the
Annunciation
appears
,
the
Door
of
the
Virgin
's
Chamber
opens
,
and
the
Angel
Gabriel
comes
to
intimate
her
Conception
;
the
Virgin
,
who
is
on
her
Knees
at
Prayer
,
turns
to
hear
his
Message
;
and
at
the
same
time
the
Holy
Ghost
descends
upon
her
Head
in
form
of
a
Dove
:
And
all
these
Motions
are
perform'd
with
an
admirable
Exactness
.
This
beautiful
Church
is
not
the
only
Ornament
of
Strasburg
:
The
rest
of
its
Buildings
deserve
an
attentive
Consideration
,
especially
the
Fortifications
,
on
which
the
King
has
bestow'd
such
prodigious
Summs
:
The
Citadel
has
its
peculiar
Beauties
,
where
the
King
entertains
a
Company
of
Cadets
.
But
the
City
is
so
extremely
large
,
and
lies
so
open
,
that
all
the
Works
with
which
it
is
surrounded
,
cou'd
hardly
resist
the
Attacks
of
a
powerful
Enemy
,
if
it
were
not
coverd
on
all
sides
by
the
impregnable
Forts
erected
by
his
Majesty's
Order
,
on
the
Bridge
over
the
Rhine
;
for
all
the
Advantage
an
Army
cou'd
propose
by
taking
the
City
while
those
Forts
remain
in
the
Hands
of
the
French
,
wou'd
amount
to
no
more
than
the
Possession
of
a
large
and
strong
Prison
.
'T
wou'd
be
needless
to
describe
the
Manners
and
Customs
of
the
Inhabitants
,
since
they
are
so
observant
of
all
the
Fashions
of
their
New
Masters
,
that
a
meer
Stranger
wou'd
imagine
'em
to
be
natural
Frenchmen
.
I
'm
persuaded
,
Sir
,
you
'll
be
as
weary
in
Reading
as
I
am
in
Writing
this
Letter
;
however
,
I
'm
resolv'd
that
neither
of
these
Considerations
shall
discourage
me
from
pursuing
my
Design
of
presenting
you
from
Time
to
Time
,
with
Relations
of
my
Travels
,
which
I
intend
to
begin
to
〈◊〉
.
I
am
,
SIR
,
Your
&c.
Strasburg
,
Sept.
1689.
LETTER
III.
SIR
,
I
Left
Strasburg
about
the
end
of
the
last
Month
,
and
passing
by
Saverne
,
Phalsburg
,
and
Marsal
,
(
which
is
much
different
from
what
it
was
heretofore
)
arriv'd
at
Metz
in
Lorrain
,
from
whence
the
Cardinal
of
Furstemburg
was
gone
some
Days
before
.
He
retir'd
to
this
place
in
the
beginning
of
the
Year
,
not
thinking
himself
secure
at
Bonn
:
And
he
was
even
so
sensible
of
the
Danger
with
which
that
place
was
threaten'd
,
that
he
brought
along
with
him
the
very
Bolts
of
the
Doors
of
the
Episcopal
Palace
.
In
the
mean
time
he
put
on
a
seeming
Confidence
,
and
talk'd
of
nothing
but
Conquests
and
Electorates
,
promising
great
things
to
all
his
Friends
;
and
even
levy'd
two
Companies
of
Soldiers
for
his
Guard
,
whom
he
was
afterwards
forc'd
to
disband
for
want
of
Money
to
pay
'em
.
I
staid
two
Days
at
Metz
,
to
consider
all
its
Rarities
.
The
City
is
pretty
large
,
and
tolerably
well
Fortify'd
.
There
is
a
Company
of
Cadets
in
the
Citadel
,
which
has
four
Bastions
,
with
good
Ditches
full
of
Water
.
The
Cathedral
,
which
is
dedicated
to
S.
Stephen
,
is
built
on
the
declivity
of
a
Hillock
;
so
that
whereas
we
usually
ascend
to
other
Churches
,
we
must
go
down
seven
or
eight
Steps
to
this
.
It
is
a
large
Building
,
tho'
there
is
nothing
remarkable
in
it
but
the
Bap●ismal
Font
,
consisting
of
one
piece
of
Porphyrie
,
about
ten
Foot
long
,
which
is
a
Rarity
in
this
Country
.
The
Bishop
assumes
the
Title
of
a
Prince
of
the
Holy
Empire
;
and
is
a
Suffragan
of
the
Elector
of
Triers
.
This
City
was
formerly
the
Metropolis
of
the
Kingdom
of
Austrasia
,
which
Clovis
I.
gave
to
his
Natural
Son
Thierry
,
creating
him
the
first
King
of
it
:
Afterwards
it
purchas'd
its
Liberty
for
the
Summ
of
100000
Crowns
,
of
Godfrey
of
Bouillon
,
at
his
departure
for
the
Holy
Land
,
and
maintain'd
the
Character
of
a
Republick
till
the
Year
1552
,
in
which
it
was
treacherously
seiz'd
by
the
Constable
de
Montmorenci
,
in
the
Name
of
Henry
II.
For
pretending
to
go
to
the
assistance
of
the
Protestants
in
Germany
,
he
ask'd
permission
to
enter
the
City
,
under
pretext
that
he
had
fall'n
sick
by
the
Way
;
and
the
next
Morning
sent
to
acquaint
the
Mayor
and
Echevins
of
the
Town
,
that
he
was
desirous
to
communicate
an
Affair
of
great
importance
to
'em
before
his
Death
.
When
he
saw
'em
all
met
together
in
his
Chamber
,
he
started
up
,
and
thrust
his
Poniard
into
the
Mayor's
Breast
,
for
a
Signal
to
his
Followers
to
stab
the
rest
of
the
Magistrates
:
And
immediately
after
the
Execution
of
that
cruel
Treason
,
the
French
run
about
the
Streets
,
crying
,
Vive
le
Roy
,
and
made
themselves
Masters
of
the
Gates
,
and
afterwards
of
the
whole
City
.
About
the
end
of
the
same
Year
,
it
was
in
vain
besieged
by
Charles
V.
who
was
forc'd
to
make
a
shameful
Retreat
by
the
Duke
of
Guise
,
who
defended
the
place
.
Since
that
unsuccessful
Attempt
,
Metz
remain'd
still
under
the
Dominion
or
rather
Protection
of
our
Kings
:
For
the
Inhabitants
carry'd
all
their
Appeals
before
the
Imperial
Chamber
at
Spire
,
till
Lewis
XIII
.
establish'd
a
Parliament
in
this
place
,
extending
its
Jurisdiction
over
Toul
,
Verdun
,
and
the
Country
of
Messin
.
The
Emperour
complain'd
of
this
Innovation
;
nor
was
the
Contest
that
happen'd
on
this
Occasion
entirely
decided
,
till
the
Peace
that
was
concluded
in
1648.
Besides
the
Parliament
,
the
King
erected
a
new
Court
of
Judicature
here
some
Years
ago
,
which
has
had
the
Impudence
(
if
I
may
use
that
Expression
without
exposing
my self
to
the
same
Censure
)
to
cite
before
it
Kings
and
Sovereign
Princes
,
to
yield
Homage
and
Fealty
for
some
Territories
over
which
they
pretend
to
have
a
Right
of
Superiority
,
as
the
Counties
of
Chini
and
Alost
,
the
Dutchy
of
Deux-Ponts
,
and
several
others
.
This
is
the
only
City
in
France
where
Jews
are
permitted
to
settle
;
and
there
are
even
some
Towns
in
Alsace
where
they
dare
not
lodge
one
Night
.
At
Strasburg
they
are
forc'd
to
pay
thirty
Sous
at
the
Gate
,
before
they
are
suffer'd
to
enter
the
City
;
and
I
have
been
often
surpriz'd
at
the
extraordinary
dexterity
of
the
Toll-gatherers
in
discovering
a
Man
of
that
Nation
.
From
Metz
I
came
to
Nanci
,
the
chief
City
of
Lorrain
,
and
Residence
of
the
Dukes
of
that
Name
.
'T
is
hardly
possible
that
a
Town
which
has
chang'd
its
Masters
so
often
,
shou'd
be
remarkable
for
its
Riches
:
However
,
't
is
very
well
fortify'd
;
and
the
same
Prince
by
whose
Orders
't
was
almost
entirely
ruin'd
in
1661
,
was
afterwards
pleas'd
to
repair
it
.
The
River
Meurte
passes
by
the
Walls
,
and
fills
the
Ditches
,
which
are
of
a
considerable
Depth
.
The
City
is
divided
into
the
High
and
Low
Town
;
and
the
Ducal
Palace
,
which
is
seated
in
the
former
,
is
a
very
large
Structure
,
of
an
admirable
Architecture
,
and
adorn'd
with
many
fine
Pictures
.
Among
its
other
Rarities
,
there
is
a
Humane
Figure
of
Wood
,
consisting
of
several
Pieces
,
fitted
together
with
so
much
Exactness
and
Art
,
that
it
may
be
made
to
imitate
all
the
Motions
and
Gestures
of
a
living
Man
.
S.
George's
Church
is
particularly
remarkable
for
the
Magnificent
Tombs
of
the
Dukes
that
lie
inter●d
there
.
About
seven
or
eight
Years
ago
this
City
was
depriv'd
of
two
of
its
noblest
Ornaments
;
the
famous
Culverin
,
that
shot
a
Bullet
to
S.
Nicholas
,
a
Village
two
large
Leagues
from
Nanci
;
and
the
Brazen
Horse
,
that
carri'd
the
Statue
of
one
of
the
Dukes
of
Lorrain
.
These
are
certainly
the
finest
cast
Pieces
in
France
,
and
were
always
thought
too
heavy
for
Carriage
,
till
a
certain
Engineer
undertook
to
remove
'em
,
and
succeeded
in
the
Attempt
.
The
latter
was
design'd
to
support
the
King's
Statue
in
the
Place
of
Conquests
at
Paris
,
but
was
found
to
be
of
too
small
a
size
;
and
the
other
was
carry'd
to
Dunkirk
.
The
Inhabitants
of
this
City
,
and
,
in
general
,
all
the
Third
State
(
or
Commons
)
of
Lorrain
,
are
still
extremely
devoted
to
the
Interest
of
their
true
and
natural
Prince
;
and
scruple
not
to
express
their
Affection
to
him
on
all
Occasions
,
with
a
certain
innocent
Frankness
,
which
together
with
their
Clownish
way
of
Speaking
,
is
esteem'd
by
the
French
rather
worthy
of
Laughter
than
Anger
.
But
the
Nobility
are
so
dazzl'd
with
the
glaring
Prospect
of
Court-Preferment
,
that
they
seem
to
have
quite
forgot
the
loss
of
their
ancient
Privileges
,
which
were
so
great
under
the
Government
of
their
Dukes
,
that
they
were
in
a
manner
Sovereign
Princes
;
whereas
at
present
they
are
reduc'd
to
an
equal
Level
with
the
rest
of
the
Gentlemen
of
the
Kingdom
.
I
stay'd
not
at
Nanci
,
but
continuing
my
Journey
towards
Dijon
,
arriv'd
at
Langres
in
Champagne
.
This
City
is
seated
on
a
Mountain
almost
inaccessible
on
all
sides
:
but
the
Inhabitants
have
no
reason
to
be
proud
of
the
strength
of
its
Situation
,
which
makes
it
a
kind
of
Prison
;
for
the
Descent
from
the
Town
is
extremely
uneasie
,
and
a
Man
may
without
Vanity
boast
of
his
Lungs
,
if
he
can
climb
from
the
bottom
of
the
Hill
to
the
Gate
,
without
losing
his
Breath
.
The
People
of
the
Country
call
this
the
Maiden-City
,
both
because
it
has
not
been
taken
for
several
Ages
,
and
by
reason
of
its
Fidelity
to
the
Crown
:
The
Bishop
is
both
a
Spiritual
and
Temporal
Lord
,
and
has
the
Title
of
Duke
and
Peer
of
France
.
The
next
Day
I
pass'd
thro'
one
of
the
most
charming
and
fertil
Plains
in
France
,
and
arriv'd
at
Dijon
.
The
City
begins
to
appear
at
a
considerable
distance
,
and
presents
a
Traveller
with
the
pleasant
Prospect
of
100
Spires
that
overtop
the
Houses
;
for
which
reason
Dijon
is
usually
call'd
the
Town
of
Steeples
.
'T
is
seated
on
the
Banks
of
the
O●che
and
Suson
,
and
was
founded
by
the
Emperour
Aurelian
,
tho'
some
affirm
that
't
is
much
more
ancient
,
and
that
he
only
repair'd
it
.
But
not
to
invade
the
Province
of
Antiquaries
,
I
shall
content
my self
with
assuring
you
that
't
is
a
very
fine
City
:
The
Streets
are
large
and
fair
,
the
Courts
spacious
,
the
Buildings
very
beautiful
,
and
the
Churches
extremely
magnificent
.
Among
the
rest
I
cannot
forbear
taking
notice
of
the
famous
Abbey
of
S.
Benign
,
which
was
built
by
Gregory
,
Bishop
of
Langres
,
after
he
had
miraculously
found
the
Body
of
that
Saint
.
'T
is
one
of
the
largest
,
and
highest
Structures
that
are
anywhere
to
be
seen
,
adorn'd
with
three
Stone-Spires
,
the
heighth
of
which
is
suitable
to
the
rest
of
the
Building
.
The
Abbey-Church
of
S.
Stephen
is
on
the
other
Side
of
the
City
,
and
is
no
less
remarkable
for
its
Beauty
.
The
Front
of
Our
Lady's
Church
surpasses
all
the
rest
,
consisting
of
a
large
Clock-Tower
all
over
wrought
,
rising
between
two
others
smaller
,
but
no
less
curiously
adorn'd
,
which
charm
the
Eyes
of
the
Beholder
.
S.
John's
Church
,
the
Holy
Chapel
,
the
Convents
of
the
Jesuits
,
and
Cordeliers
,
and
generally
all
the
rest
of
the
Churches
and
Convents
deserve
particular
Observation
,
especially
that
of
the
Carthusians
,
without
the
City
,
towards
the
Red
Gate
,
which
is
one
of
the
richest
Monasteries
in
the
Kingdom
.
There
are
a
hundred
Monks
in
it
,
who
observe
with
so
religious
a
Strictness
,
their
Vows
of
Solitude
and
Silence
,
that
a
Stranger
visiting
the
Place
wou'd
be
tempted
to
think
it
were
uninhabited
.
And
I
may
venture
to
add
,
that
perhaps
they
may
make
a
better
use
of
their
Revenues
than
any
other
Convent
in
the
Kingdom
:
for
besides
a
considerable
Summ
which
they
give
to
the
Hospital
of
the
Holy
Ghost
,
they
distribute
every
Week
five
or
six
hundred
Loaves
to
the
Poor
.
They
have
a
very
fine
Cloyster
,
and
a
finer
Church
,
where
the
Dukes
of
Burgundy
,
and
a
King
of
Poland
lie
interr'd
in
magnificent
Tombs
.
On
a
Hillock
,
on
the
other
Side
of
the
City
,
there
is
a
Convent
of
one
of
the
Orders
of
Mendicant
Friers
,
said
to
be
the
House
of
S.
Bernard's
Father
,
who
was
Lord
of
the
Place
that
still
retains
the
Name
of
Bourg-fontaines
.
The
Room
where
he
was
born
,
which
is
a
very
little
and
low
Hall
,
of
a
square
Figure
,
is
turn'd
to
a
Chapel
,
with
this
Inscription
over
the
Door
:
Come
,
my
Children
,
and
I
will
bring
you
into
the
House
of
my
Father
,
and
into
the
Chamber
where
my
Mother
brought
me
forth
.
Dijon
is
the
Capital
City
of
the
Dutchy
of
Burgundy
:
't
is
the
Seat
of
a
Parliament
,
Generality
or
general
Receipt
of
the
Finances
,
Chamber
of
Accounts
,
and
a
Court
that
takes
Cognizance
of
Affairs
relating
to
the
Coining
and
Value
of
Money
;
and
besides
the
States
of
the
Province
meet
here
once
in
three
Years
:
so
that
it
wants
only
the
Dignity
of
an
Episcopal
See
,
being
under
the
Jurisdiction
of
the
Bishop
of
Langres
.
It
had
formerly
very
considerable
Privileges
;
and
our
Kings
at
their
Accession
to
the
Crown
,
and
as
often
as
they
enter'd
into
the
City
,
were
oblig'd
to
swear
to
preserve
'em
.
But
that
Custom
was
abolish'd
by
the
present
King
,
when
he
pass'd
this
way
to
receive
the
Queen
at
her
Arrival
from
Spain
.
For
when
the
Mayor
accompany'd
with
the
rest
of
the
Magistrates
,
presented
the
Keys
of
the
City
,
together
with
a
Copy
of
their
Privileges
to
his
Majesty
,
humbly
beseeching
him
that
he
wou'd
swear
to
preserve
'em
,
after
the
Example
of
all
his
Predecessors
,
and
even
of
the
late
King
of
Glorious
Memory
;
Cardinal
Mazarin
reply'd
,
Are
you
so
insolent
as
to
impose
an
Oath
upon
your
King
?
The
Magistrates
surpriz'd
at
so
severe
a
Reprimand
,
answer'd
with
a
great
deal
of
Respect
,
that
they
pretended
not
to
impose
any
thing
,
but
only
begg'd
and
hop'd
to
obtain
that
Favour
from
his
Majesty's
Justice
and
Goodness
.
I
understand
your
Meaning
,
reply'd
the
Cardinal
,
you
wou'd
be
a
Free
City
and
Commonwealth
.
And
I
assure
you
,
in
his
Majesty's
Name
,
that
,
without
taking
an
Oath
,
he
considers
you
as
such
,
but
prepare
your selves
to
become
his
Conquest
.
This
Threatning
was
quickly
executed
,
for
the
next
Day
8000
Men
enter'd
the
City
,
and
the
Cardinal
made
a
general
Alteration
in
the
Magistracy
.
The
Mayoralty
of
Dijon
was
the
best
Place
of
that
Nature
in
France
;
for
besides
the
Title
of
a
Viscount
,
the
Government
of
the
City
,
and
of
all
the
Third
Estate
or
Commonalty
of
Burgundy
was
annex'd
to
it
.
The
Inhabitants
of
this
City
are
generally
of
a
very
free
and
sociable
Temper
,
and
the
Women
enjoy
all
the
Advantages
of
an
honest
Liberty
.
So
charming
a
Society
puts
a
kind
of
easie
Constraint
upon
Strangers
,
and
makes
'em
break
all
their
Resolutions
of
hastening
their
Departure
:
for
't
is
impossible
to
stay
here
four
and
twenty
Hours
without
making
some
agreeable
Acquaintance
,
which
may
afterwards
prove
the
Source
of
a
great
deal
of
Pleasure
.
The
narrow
Compass
of
a
Letter
will
not
allow
me
to
insert
the
Relation
of
a
very
pleasant
Adventure
that
I
met
with
in
this
place
;
but
I
'm
resolv'd
to
make
you
my
Confident
at
our
first
Meeting
.
To
morrow
I
intend
to
depart
for
Lyons
,
where
I
shall
have
time
to
give
you
an
Account
of
my
Journey
.
In
the
mean
time
,
I
am
,
SIR
,
Your
&c.
Dijon
,
Octob.
1689.
LETTER
IV.
SIR
,
CHaalons
is
a
considerable
City
,
honour'd
with
the
Title
of
a
County
,
and
is
the
same
with
the
ancient
Cabilonum
mention'd
in
Caesar's
Commentaries
.
It
appears
by
the
Ruines
of
an
old
Amphitheatre
,
that
this
place
was
formerly
possess'd
by
the
Romans
.
I
lodg'd
at
the
Pelican
,
where
I
had
the
good
Fortune
to
meet
with
three
Merchants
of
Lyons
,
who
were
returning
thither
,
and
promis'd
to
shew
me
all
the
Rarities
of
that
City
.
We
had
scarce
travell'd
a
Mile
,
when
we
met
with
a
Priest
walking
a-foot
,
in
a
pretty
genteel
Garb
:
He
was
a
Man
of
a
very
serious
Mien
,
but
talk'd
wittily
.
He
accepted
the
Civility
of
one
of
our
Company
,
who
offer'd
him
the
Conveniency
of
riding
behind
him
half
a
League
of
bad
way
,
thro'
which
we
were
oblig'd
to
pass
.
This
Accident
gave
us
occasion
to
discourse
of
the
Uneasiness
of
travelling
on
Foot
,
and
of
the
Happiness
of
those
who
by
Virtue
of
certain
Charms
,
can
ride
30
or
40
Leagues
a
day
.
I
was
never
fond
of
believing
what
I
cannot
comprehend
,
and
I
must
confess
my
Reason
was
too
hard
for
my
Faith
on
this
Occasion
.
However
I
know
not
whether
I
shou'd
have
been
able
to
withstand
the
Opposition
of
some
of
my
Fellow-Travellers
,
if
he
who
had
the
Priest
behind
him
had
not
vigorously
undertaken
my
Defence
.
The
Dispute
continu'd
for
some
time
pretty
warm
on
both
sides
,
till
our
mutual
Weariness
rather
than
Want
of
Arguments
,
made
us
at
last
consent
to
chuse
the
Priest
,
who
had
not
yet
sided
with
either
Party
,
to
be
Judge
of
our
Difference
.
He
very
gravely
told
us
,
that
the
controverted
Story
was
a
certain
Truth
,
and
that
he
knew
some
Persons
who
were
Masters
of
that
Secret
;
I
cou'd
not
forbear
laughing
at
the
serious
Tone
with
which
he
pronounc'd
Sentence
against
me
;
and
he
was
so
vex'd
at
my
Incredulity
,
that
he
began
to
maintain
his
Assertion
with
a
great
deal
of
heat
.
Immediately
his
Fellow-Horseman
took
up
the
Cudgels
,
and
they
engag'd
in
a
Debate
which
lasted
about
a
Quarter
of
an
Hour
;
till
at
last
the
Priest
perceiving
that
't
was
in
vain
to
contend
longer
with
so
obstinate
an
Adversary
,
told
us
plainly
that
he
himself
cou'd
do
the
Feat
,
tho'
he
never
us'd
to
put
it
in
Practice
;
and
that
if
his
Opponent
had
a
Mind
to
see
the
Experiment
,
he
wou'd
make
his
Horse
carry
him
to
Mascon
in
two
Hours
.
The
Merchant
took
him
at
his
word
,
and
summon'd
him
to
perform
his
Promise
,
to
which
he
consented
,
and
immediately
the
Horse
gallop'd
away
with
so
prodigious
a
Swiftness
,
that
we
lost
sight
of
'em
in
a
Moment
.
This
Accident
did
not
much
surprize
us
at
first
;
for
we
thought
the
Priest
had
a
Spur
conceal'd
in
his
hand
,
with
which
he
prick'd
the
Horse
:
in
the
mean
time
we
rode
on
,
but
cou'd
neither
see
,
nor
hear
the
least
News
of
our
Gallopers
till
we
arriv'd
at
Mascon
on
the
morrow
,
where
we
found
the
Merchand
very
melancholick
.
He
told
us
that
he
was
carry'd
to
Mascon
exactly
in
two
Hours
after
he
left
us
,
with
so
much
Ease
,
that
he
imagin'd
all
the
while
he
was
riding
at
a
Hand-Gallop
;
but
that
his
Horse
fell
dead
assoon
as
he
enter'd
the
Stable
.
He
concluded
that
the
Priest
was
a
Wizard
,
and
was
so
firmly
perswaded
of
the
Truth
of
his
Opinion
,
by
the
concurring
Testimony
of
our
Landlord
,
who
knew
the
Man
,
that
he
enter'd
an
Accusation
against
him
,
and
procur'd
him
to
be
apprehended
the
same
day
.
I
was
oblig'd
to
give
Evidence
with
the
rest
,
and
to
declare
all
that
I
had
seen
him
do
,
which
,
in
my
Opinion
,
cou'd
not
amount
to
a
convincing
Proof
of
his
Guilt
.
I
know
no
Reason
that
shou'd
hinder
us
from
supposing
that
a
good
English
Horse
,
such
as
the
Merchant
's
was
,
might
with
a
good
Spur
be
made
to
gallop
eight
Leagues
in
two
hours
,
and
without
any
Enchantment
fall
dead
at
his
Journey
's
End
.
Yet
this
Accident
made
a
great
Noise
,
and
the
Poor
Devil
was
sent
to
Prison
,
where
I
left
him
.
I
had
almost
forgot
to
tell
you
that
they
found
in
his
Pockets
a
Piece
of
Parchment
four
fingers
breadth
long
,
and
two
broad
,
with
this
Sentence
in
Red
Letters
,
Adjutor
meus
,
&
Protector
meus
,
tu
Domine
,
nè
derelinquas
me
,
with
four
small
Crosses
,
one
at
each
End
,
one
above
,
and
another
below
,
which
they
fansi'd
to
be
a
certain
Charm
or
Character
.
From
Mascon
we
proceeded
on
our
Journey
to
Lyons
,
where
I
was
forc'd
to
sell
my
Horse
,
who
was
gall'd
under
the
Saddle-Bow
.
I
resolv'd
to
spend
some
Days
in
this
Place
,
that
I
might
have
time
to
take
a
full
View
of
a
City
that
is
esteem'd
the
Largest
and
most
Considerable
in
the
Kingdom
,
next
to
Paris
,
and
is
certainly
worthy
of
all
the
Curiosity
of
a
Traveller
.
'T
is
seated
at
the
Confluence
of
the
Rhone
and
the
Saône
,
in
a
Bottom
between
two
Hills
.
The
Houses
equal
,
or
rather
exceed
those
of
Paris
in
Heighth
,
some
of
'em
amounting
to
six
Stories
;
which
makes
the
Streets
somewhat
Dark
,
by
reason
of
their
Narrowness
.
There
are
many
fine
Courts
in
the
City
,
but
none
of
'em
are
comparable
to
Belle-Cour
,
which
is
embellish'd
with
Rows
of
Trees
;
tho'
its
principal
Ornament
consists
in
the
Company
that
resort
to
it
;
for
't
is
the
general
Rendezvous
of
all
the
People
of
Quality
and
good
Breeding
;
and
since
the
Ladies
here
are
no
less
Generous
than
Charming
,
and
cannot
justly
be
accus'd
of
Inhumanity
to
their
Captives
,
there
are
many
Intrigues
form'd
in
this
Place
,
which
are
carry'd
on
with
all
the
Tenderness
and
Pleasure
that
a
reciprocal
Passion
can
inspire
.
To
give
you
a
compendious
Account
of
the
publick
Edifices
in
Lions
,
in
which
respect
it
holds
the
first
Rank
,
without
Controversy
,
among
all
the
Cities
of
France
;
I
shall
begin
with
the
Metropolitan
Church
,
dedicated
to
S.
John
,
and
founded
by
John
King
of
Burgundy
,
on
the
Ruines
of
a
Temple
formerly
consecrated
to
Augustus
.
There
is
a
Clock
near
the
Choir
,
which
surpasses
that
of
Strasburg
in
the
fineness
of
its
Contrivance
and
Workmanship
;
for
,
besides
all
the
Rarities
mention'd
in
the
Description
of
that
famous
Machine
,
the
Clock
of
Lions
has
several
peculiar
Beauties
;
among
which
I
shall
only
take
notice
of
the
Angel
that
Chants
the
Hymn
of
S.
John
with
all
the
exactness
imaginable
.
The
Needle
that
marks
the
Hours
,
and
grows
longer
or
shorter
according
to
the
various
dimensions
of
the
Oval
Dial
,
and
the
Days
of
the
Week
mark'd
by
Figures
that
appear
every
Morning
in
a
Nich
on
the
top
of
the
Clock
,
in
the
room
of
those
that
possess'd
the
same
place
the
Day
before
.
The
King
of
France
by
Virtue
of
his
Crown
,
is
the
first
Canon
of
this
Church
;
and
all
the
rest
have
the
Title
of
Counts
;
and
must
prove
their
Nobility
before
they
can
be
receiv'd
.
There
are
several
other
Magnificent
Churches
in
Lions
.
That
of
Nôtre-dame
de
Forvieres
is
one
of
the
most
ancient
,
which
was
formerly
dedicated
to
Venus
.
Every
curious
Traveller
ought
to
view
the
City
from
the
Steeple
of
this
Church
,
where
he
may
have
a
distinct
Prospect
of
its
Extent
and
Situation
.
Adjoining
to
this
are
the
Ruines
of
the
Palace
of
Augustus
,
and
of
a
Neighbouring
Amphitheatre
,
where
Learned
and
Inquisitive
Antiquaries
may
find
an
excellent
Opportunity
to
display
their
Skill
in
the
Examination
of
an
infinite
Number
of
Inscriptions
,
Statues
,
Tombs
,
Urns
,
Medals
,
and
other
rich
Monuments
of
the
Roman
Grandeur
.
But
my
unacquaintedness
with
those
Studies
makes
me
purposely
decline
entring
upon
this
Subject
;
since
I
'm
confident
you
'll
be
better
pleas'd
with
my
Silence
,
than
if
I
shou'd
send
you
an
imperfect
or
erroneous
Account
,
under
the
specious
Title
of
A
Description
of
the
Antiquities
of
Lions
.
The
Town-House
is
a
Master-piece
of
Art
,
compleatly
furnish'd
with
all
the
Advantages
and
Ornaments
of
Beauty
,
Situation
,
Extent
,
Height
,
Architecture
,
Marbles
,
Paintings
,
Gardens
,
Fountains
,
Antiquities
,
and
every
thing
else
that
may
recommend
a
Building
to
the
Observation
of
a
Curious
and
Knowing
Traveller
.
It
s
Front
regards
the
Place
des
Terreaux
,
which
is
one
of
the
most
pleasant
Courts
in
in
the
City
;
and
before
it
there
is
a
lovely
Fountain
,
which
is
none
of
its
least
Considerable
Ornaments
.
In
the
first
place
I
took
notice
of
a
large
Clock-Tower
,
rising
between
two
high
Pavilions
,
under
which
is
the
Entry
to
the
Palace
adorn'd
with
large
Columns
of
a
precious
kind
of
Marble
.
Then
I
went
up
some
Steps
,
and
coming
under
the
Pavilions
,
observ'd
two
Tables
of
Brass
,
where
I
found
engrav'd
in
Ancient
Characters
,
the
Patent
granted
by
the
Emperour
Cla●dius
to
the
Inhabitants
of
Lions
,
when
he
bestow'd
the
Privileges
of
Roman
Citizens
upon
'em
.
From
thence
I
enter'd
into
the
First
,
and
afterwards
into
the
Second
Court
,
where
I
consider'd
with
a
great
deal
of
Pleasure
and
Attention
,
the
Structure
and
Design
of
that
Majestick
Mass
of
Building
,
which
is
of
a
Square
Figure
,
and
bounded
at
the
four
Corners
with
as
many
large
and
very
high
Pavilions
.
Afterwards
I
went
down
to
the
Garden
,
which
is
embellish'd
with
Gravel
Walks
,
Beds
of
Flowers
,
Fountains
,
and
a
hundred
other
Ornaments
.
After
I
had
satisfy'd
my
Curiosity
with
a
View
of
the
external
Beauties
of
this
Noble
Structure
,
I
return'd
to
admire
the
inside
of
it
.
I
went
up
a
pair
of
winding
Stairs
,
of
a
very
excellent
Contrivance
,
to
the
Hall
,
where
I
was
agreeably
surpriz'd
with
its
Largeness
,
Gilding
,
Paintings
,
and
especially
a
great
number
of
Pictures
of
the
Kings
of
France
,
which
are
all
finish'd
Pieces
:
And
in
the
the
other
Apartments
I
observ'd
a
vast
variety
of
different
Beauties
,
which
I
dare
not
undertake
to
describe
.
I
spent
the
whole
Morning
in
this
House
,
and
employ'd
the
Afternoon
with
a
great
deal
of
Satisfaction
,
in
visiting
the
Hospitals
,
which
may
be
reckon'd
among
the
most
considerable
Foundations
of
that
Nature
in
France
.
Hòtel
Dieu
is
a
spacious
Structure
,
well
built
,
and
very
rich
:
All
sorts
of
diseas'd
Persons
are
receiv'd
into
it
;
so
that
't
is
always
very
full
,
and
wou'd
hardly
be
able
to
maintain
so
vast
a
Charge
,
notwithstanding
the
greatness
of
its
Revenues
,
if
the
Archbishop
did
not
bestow
upon
it
the
Profits
accruing
from
the
Dispensation
of
eating
Eggs
,
Milk
,
Flesh
,
&c.
The
Hospital
de
la
Charite
is
a
Modern
Foundation
;
and
tho'
t
is
not
near
so
large
as
the
former
,
it
may
be
justly
reckon'd
equal
to
it
in
other
respects
.
On
the
top
of
a
great
Portal
,
that
serves
for
an
Entry
to
the
Building
,
there
is
the
Figure
of
a
Pelican
,
tearing
her
Breast
,
to
feed
her
young
ones
;
the
true
Emblem
of
Charity
I
observ'd
one
thing
at
Lions
which
I
had
not
seen
in
any
other
part
of
France
,
I
mean
the
Place
of
Refuge
for
Criminals
,
which
is
neither
a
Church
nor
Royal
Palace
,
but
a
House
appointed
for
that
Purpose
,
and
usually
call'd
the
Sanctuary
.
Towards
the
Gate
des
Trions
,
I
saw
the
Aqueducts
that
were
built
by
the
Romans
for
the
Conveyance
of
Water
into
the
City
;
and
not
far
from
thence
there
is
a
Cave
,
call'd
the
Grotto
,
which
is
also
said
to
be
one
of
their
Works
.
The
Country
about
the
City
is
embellish'd
with
a
vast
number
of
lovely
Seats
,
among
which
la
Duchere
and
la
Claire
deserve
a
particular
Observation
.
The
City
has
six
Gates
,
three
Bridges
,
about
two
hundred
Streets
,
and
above
a
hundred
Churches
,
Convents
,
or
Chapels
.
The
Archbishop
is
the
chief
Prelate
of
the
Gauls
,
and
by
Virtue
of
his
Primacy
receives
Appeals
from
all
the
parts
of
France
in
Ecclesiastical
Cases
.
Monsieur
de
Villeroy
is
the
present
Archbishop
,
and
Lieutenant-General
of
the
whole
Province
.
He
is
descended
of
a
very
honourable
Family
,
but
is
certainly
one
of
the
roughest
and
least
Complaisant
Men
in
the
World
.
I
cannot
forbear
relating
to
you
,
upon
this
occasion
,
a
very
pleasant
Discourse
that
pass'd
between
this
Prelate
and
Monsieur
de
la
Feuillade
.
That
Mareschal
,
says
the
Story
,
riding
Post
to
Turin
,
in
a
very
mean
Garb
,
to
dispatch
some
Affairs
of
Importance
,
stopt
at
Li●ns
to
deliver
a
Packet
from
the
King
to
the
Archbishop
,
who
taking
the
Bearer
for
an
Ordinary
Courier
,
because
he
pretended
to
no
higher
Quality
,
ask'd
him
,
Whether
there
were
any
News
at
Paris
.
Green
Pease
,
my
Lord
,
reply'd
the
Mareschal
.
You
mistake
my
meaning
,
Friend
,
said
the
Archbishop
;
I
wou'd
know
what
People
were
saying
when
you
left
Paris
?
My
Lord
,
answer'd
the
Mareschal
,
they
were
saying
Vespers
.
Then
the
Prelate
perceiving
that
the
pretended
Courier
abus'd
him
,
fell
into
a
Passion
,
saying
,
How
,
Friend
?
where
were
you
taught
to
speak
thus
to
Persons
of
my
Quality
and
Character
?
What
are
you
?
—
What
do
People
use
to
call
you
?
Why
,
my
Lord
,
reply'd
the
Mareschal
,
some
are
pleas'd
to
call
me
Friend
,
others
Monsieur
,
and
the
King
calls
me
Cousin
.
These
Words
surpriz'd
the
Archbishop
,
who
,
considering
the
Mareschal
more
attentively
,
at
last
knew
him
,
and
made
an
Apology
for
his
incivility
.
Nevertheless
I
can
hardly
be
induc'd
to
believe
that
a
Man
of
his
Quality
wou'd
have
stoop'd
to
such
punning
Wit
,
which
is
only
graceful
in
the
Mouth
of
a
true
Courier
:
Tho'
't
is
well
known
that
Monsieur
de
la
Feuillade
was
a
Person
of
a
very
odd
and
singular
Humour
.
You
have
doubtless
read
what
an
Author
of
great
Reputation
relates
concerning
his
Discourse
to
the
King
about
the
Archbishop
of
Rheims
;
and
if
you
can
believe
that
Story
,
you
will
not
think
this
incredible
.
Lions
is
a
very
ancient
City
,
known
to
Titus
Livius
and
Plutarch
by
the
Name
of
The
Island
.
The
Name
which
it
still
retains
was
given
to
it
by
Anthony
,
(
who
obtain'd
Celtica
Gallia
for
his
part
of
the
Empire
)
when
he
enter'd
the
City
on
a
Triumphant
Chariot
drawn
by
twelve
Lions
;
and
he
afterwards
caus'd
Money
to
be
coin'd
in
the
same
place
,
of
which
I
have
seen
some
Pieces
,
bearing
his
Figure
on
one
side
,
and
on
the
other
a
Lion
,
with
the
Word
Lugduni
.
The
Town
it self
neither
is
,
nor
can
be
made
very
strong
;
but
't
is
commanded
by
three
good
Castles
which
defend
its
Avenues
.
The
first
is
the
famous
Fort
of
Peter
Ancise
,
built
on
the
top
of
a
steep
Mountain
,
with
the
rare
Advantage
of
an
excellent
Spring
of
Water
;
the
second
is
that
of
S.
Sebastian
;
and
the
third
has
the
Name
of
S.
Clair
.
I
intended
to
have
gone
directly
from
Lions
to
Geneva
;
but
I
soon
found
that
I
cou'd
not
prosecute
that
Design
without
throwing
my self
into
unavoidable
Dangers
;
for
the
Protestants
are
so
narrowly
watch'd
every
where
,
that
't
is
absolutely
impossible
to
travel
thither
without
a
Pass-port
,
unless
a
Man
were
Master
of
the
Invention
of
flying
thro'
the
Air.
Nor
is
it
very
safe
to
demand
a
Pass-port
of
the
Archbishop
;
for
very
lately
he
order'd
two
Merchants
to
be
apprehended
,
for
no
other
reason
than
that
they
were
going
to
Geneva
.
That
Name
alone
is
sufficient
to
make
any
Man
pass
for
a
Heretick
that
dares
venture
to
pronounce
it
;
and
he
may
reckon
himself
favourably
treated
if
his
Crime
be
not
immediately
judg'd
worthy
of
the
Gallows
.
You
cannot
imagine
with
what
care
I
avoid
the
mentioning
of
so
dangerous
a
Word
;
and
,
I
assure
you
,
I
'm
so
much
in
Love
with
the
Principle
of
Self-preservation
,
that
I
talk
of
nothing
but
Rome
;
and
pretend
that
the
only
Design
of
my
Travels
is
to
wait
upon
the
Duke
de
Chaûnes
.
All
this
Caution
,
and
the
Commotions
that
at
present
disturb
this
Country
,
are
occasion'd
by
the
return
of
the
Vaudois
,
who
arming
themselves
in
the
Canton
of
Bern
in
Switzerland
,
with
a
Secrecy
that
prevented
even
the
Suspicions
of
their
Enemies
,
form'd
two
Bodies
,
one
of
1200
,
and
the
other
of
3000
Men
;
and
embarking
on
the
Lake
of
Geneva
,
forc'd
their
way
thro'
Savoy
to
their
own
Country
,
in
spite
of
the
united
Forces
of
France
and
Savoy
,
who
oppos'd
their
Passage
,
and
oblig'd
'em
to
five
or
six
Battels
,
or
rather
Skirmishes
,
in
which
the
Vaudois
had
still
the
Advantage
;
but
all
those
who
were
caught
straggling
were
made
to
pay
for
their
Fellows
,
and
immediately
hang'd
without
Mercy
.
'T
is
impossible
for
a
considering
Person
to
reflect
without
amazement
,
on
the
Success
of
that
Enterprize
.
The
first
Body
of
those
poor
Exiles
had
so
little
Experience
in
the
Management
of
Warlike
Expeditions
,
that
there
was
not
one
Officer
among
'em
to
conduct
the
rest
;
for
they
had
no
other
Commanders
but
one
Monsieur
Arnaud
,
a
Minister
,
and
under
him
a
Mason
,
nam'd
Turel
,
for
their
Lieutenant-General
.
Judge
,
Sir
,
whether
such
doughty
Captains
were
fitted
for
the
Atchievement
of
an
Attempt
,
which
a
Triple
number
of
regulated
Troops
durst
not
have
undertaken
.
This
Consideration
makes
me
very
inclinable
to
believe
that
the
Duke
of
Savoy
not
only
knew
and
allow'd
,
but
was
the
Promoter
,
and
even
the
Author
of
their
Design
;
especially
since
't
is
plain
that
he
might
have
easily
prevented
the
Execution
of
it
,
by
cutting
off
their
Passage
,
and
making
'em
perish
in
the
Mountains
.
I
have
said
enough
to
convince
you
,
that
't
is
not
safe
for
me
to
prosecute
my
intended
Journey
to
Geneva
;
however
I
'll
leave
no
means
unessay'd
,
to
get
out
of
the
limits
of
France
,
and
to
break
thro'
all
the
Difficulties
that
lie
in
my
Way
.
In
pursuance
of
that
Design
,
which
I
confess
seems
in
a
manner
impracticable
,
I
'm
resolv'd
at
all
Adventures
to
go
to
Grenoble
,
that
I
may
at
least
draw
nearer
the
Confines
of
the
Kingdom
,
in
expectation
of
a
more
favourable
Opportunity
to
get
beyond
'em
.
I
am
,
SIR
,
Your
&c.
Lions
,
Nov.
1689.
LETTER
V.
SIR
,
I
Acquainted
you
in
my
last
with
my
Resolutition
to
continue
my
Journey
to
Grenoble
.
At
my
departure
from
Lions
I
hir'd
a
Post-Ass
at
S.
Siforins
,
out
of
pure
Curiosity
to
try
so
rare
an
Experiment
:
Tho'
I
must
confess
this
way
of
Travelling
is
not
altogether
without
its
Advantages
;
for
the
Rider
may
boldly
venture
a
Fall
,
without
running
the
hazard
of
breaking
his
Neck
.
I
pass'd
thro'
Vienne
,
a
very
Ancient
City
,
and
of
Old
much
esteem'd
by
the
Romans
,
notwithstanding
its
disadvantageous
Situation
at
the
bottom
of
two
great
Mountains
,
which
darken
the
Place
extremely
.
Pilate
,
the
Governour
of
Jerusalem
,
and
our
Saviour's
Judge
,
was
afterwards
sent
hither
;
and
they
still
show
the
Praetorium
,
or
Hall
of
Justice
,
where
he
was
wont
to
pronounce
Judgment
.
There
is
a
round
Stone
in
the
Wall
with
this
Inscription
,
This
is
the
Globe
of
Pilate's
Scepter
;
tho'
its
unfitness
for
such
an
Use
makes
me
rather
inclinable
to
believe
,
that
the
Inscription
speaks
of
the
House
,
which
might
be
call'd
The
Globe
of
a
Sceptre
,
by
way
of
Figure
or
Allusion
.
They
also
make
Strangers
take
notice
of
a
square
Tower
,
where
they
pretend
he
ended
his
Days
,
after
an
Imprisonment
of
Seven
Years
.
The
City
is
full
of
such-like
Antiquities
,
which
are
the
only
things
in
it
that
deserve
a
Traveller's
Observation
;
for
the
Buildings
are
very
inconsiderable
.
S.
Severus's
Church
stands
in
a
Place
where
formerly
the
Heathens
ador'd
a
Hundred
Gods
,
under
a
great
Tree
,
that
was
afterwards
cut
down
and
rooted
up
by
that
Saint's
Order
,
as
appears
by
this
Inscription
on
a
Column
:
Arborem
Deos
Severus
evertit
Centum
Deorum
.
There
goes
a
Story
,
that
under
that
Tree
there
was
found
a
Death's-Head
,
full
of
Gold
and
Silver
,
with
which
the
Church
was
built
.
I
will
not
pretend
to
demonstrate
the
falseness
of
this
Tradition
;
but
I
think
I
may
venture
to
conclude
,
that
either
the
Head
was
very
big
,
or
the
Wages
of
Workmen
in
those
Days
very
low
;
for
such
a
Structure
cou'd
not
now
be
erected
for
sixty
thousand
Crowns
.
Without
the
City
,
in
a
place
call'd
The
Field
de
l'
Aguillé
,
there
is
an
high
Pyramid
,
consisting
of
several
Stones
join'd
together
without
Mortar
or
Cement
,
and
supported
by
an
Ancient
Vault
of
the
same
kind
of
Architecture
,
resembling
a
little
Chapel
.
The
Inhabitants
of
Vienne
pretend
that
this
Pyramid
was
erected
by
an
Emperour
,
with
a
Design
that
his
Ashes
shou'd
be
plac'd
in
an
Urn
on
the
top
of
it
,
that
his
Tomb
might
be
nearer
Heaven
.
The
Archiepiscopal
Church
is
consecrated
to
S.
Maurice
,
whose
Head
is
preserv'd
in
it
.
The
Archbishop
assumes
the
Quality
of
Primate
of
the
Primates
of
the
Gauls
;
pretending
a
right
to
that
Title
,
in
opposition
to
the
Archbishop
of
Lions
,
against
whom
he
has
a
Suit
on
this
Occasion
,
that
(
if
we
we
may
judge
by
Appearances
)
will
not
be
soon
decided
.
Vienne
was
the
Capital
City
of
Dauphiné
,
before
the
erection
of
a
Parliament
at
Grenoble
;
and
therefore
the
Kings
of
France
,
among
the
rest
of
their
Titles
,
style
themselves
Dauphins
of
Viennois
.
From
thence
continuing
my
Journey
,
mounted
as
before
,
at
the
rate
of
five
Sous
by
the
Stage
,
which
is
the
ordinary
Price
;
I
and
my
Ass
had
the
Fortune
to
meet
with
a
Couple
of
Fellow-Travellers
.
Immediately
I
accosted
my
Companion
,
and
finding
nothing
either
in
his
Mien
or
Discourse
that
deserv'd
Contempt
,
I
concluded
that
he
was
a
Merchant
of
Lions
or
Grenoble
.
About
two
Hours
after
our
Meeting
,
perceiving
at
a
considerable
distance
a
Coach
drawn
by
Six
Horses
,
and
attended
with
some
Horsemen
,
coming
towards
us
,
he
presently
alighted
,
and
turn'd
his
Ass
loose
:
Then
shrinking
up
one
of
his
Arms
,
and
turning
it
awry
,
as
if
he
had
been
Lame
,
he
walk'd
bare-headed
to
the
Boot
of
the
Coach
,
and
begg'd
Charity
of
the
Passengers
.
I
was
extremely
surpriz'd
at
so
odd
and
unexpected
an
Action
,
nor
cou'd
I
divine
the
Meaning
of
it
;
for
I
thought
it
almost
impossible
that
a
Man
,
who
,
I
imagin'd
,
was
neither
Poor
nor
Sick
,
cou'd
be
guilty
of
so
much
Baseness
:
However
,
since
my
Beast
had
already
carry'd
me
so
far
,
that
I
cou'd
not
observe
distinctly
what
he
said
or
did
,
I
resolv'd
to
suspend
my
Judgment
till
I
shou'd
learn
the
reason
of
it
from
his
own
Mouth
.
Assoon
as
he
came
up
,
I
ask'd
what
he
went
to
do
at
the
Coach
;
Somewhat
,
reply'd
he
,
that
will
doubtless
surprize
you
:
Perhaps
you
did
not
believe
me
to
be
a
profess'd
Beggar
;
yet
I
assure
you
I
have
no
other
Trade
;
and
if
you
stay
at
Grenoble
,
you
may
be
a
Witness
of
my
Diligence
in
that
Vocation
.
I
'm
going
to
the
Hospital
in
that
City
,
where
I
'm
sure
of
a
Lodging
,
for
three
Days
,
during
which
I
hope
to
get
three
Pistoles
.
I
was
no
less
astonish'd
at
what
I
heard
him
say
,
than
at
what
I
had
already
seen
him
do
:
But
he
went
on
with
the
same
Frankness
,
and
told
me
the
whole
History
of
his
Life
.
He
said
he
was
born
at
Avignon
,
of
a
considerable
Family
in
that
City
,
and
that
he
had
actually
a
Revenue
of
above
200
Livres
;
that
during
his
Infancy
he
had
so
strong
an
Inclination
to
Begging
,
that
he
usually
stole
away
from
his
Father
and
Mother
to
ask
Alms
on
the
High-ways
;
where
he
sometimes
pick'd
up
twenty
or
thirty
Sous
a
Day
,
which
made
him
so
fond
of
that
Course
of
Life
,
that
he
cou'd
never
afterwards
leave
it
.
He
assur'd
me
,
that
the
Trade
of
Begging
was
attended
at
least
with
as
much
Pleasure
as
Pain
;
and
that
he
was
so
accustom'd
to
it
,
that
he
was
resolv'd
to
make
it
the
only
Business
of
his
Life
.
In
the
mean
time
I
hearken'd
to
him
with
an
Admiration
that
wou'd
not
suffer
me
to
interrupt
him
;
and
he
scrupl'd
not
to
acquaint
me
with
most
of
the
usual
Tricks
of
his
Fellow-Vagabonds
.
They
spend
their
whole
Lives
in
wandring
from
one
Hospital
to
another
,
and
know
exactly
all
the
Customs
of
those
Places
,
and
the
various
Offices
of
Charity
that
were
appointed
by
the
Founders
to
be
perform'd
in
'em
.
Some
of
'em
cover
themselves
with
Rags
,
and
putting
their
Arms
or
Legs
out
of
Joint
,
take
up
their
Post
at
a
Church
Door
from
Morning
to
Night
,
while
others
go
about
in
a
pretty
decent
Garb
,
and
pretending
to
be
poor
Officers
who
have
been
robb'd
of
their
Money
,
and
are
at
a
great
distance
from
their
Friends
and
Relations
,
beg
the
Charitable
Assistance
of
those
whom
they
meet
,
with
a
certain
Bashfulness
,
and
mournful
Tone
,
that
deceives
many
well-dispos'd
Persons
.
He
that
instructed
me
in
all
these
Mysteries
,
was
of
the
Second
Order
,
and
contemn'd
the
others
as
a
sort
of
Puny
Mumpers
,
who
had
neither
Courage
nor
Ambition
:
Adding
,
that
he
got
more
in
a
Day
that
the
best
of
them
cou'd
do
in
a
whole
Month.
Nevertheless
these
Strolers
depend
not
wholly
on
Charity
;
they
have
another
Trade
which
is
no
less
Gainful
than
Begging
,
I
mean
the
selling
of
Pass-Ports
to
Travellers
.
My
Companion
perceiving
that
I
had
none
,
desir'd
me
to
buy
one
of
him
;
and
at
the
first
Inn
where
we
alighted
,
shew'd
me
at
least
a
Hundred
.
I
ask'd
him
the
Price
of
One
:
There
are
some
,
answer'd
he
,
of
all
Prices
,
as
well
as
other
Commodities
;
for
some
are
Authentick
,
others
forg'd
;
some
of
an
old
,
others
of
a
fresh
Date
;
and
if
you
will
be
satisfy'd
with
such
as
are
Counterfeit
,
you
shall
have
'em
for
fifteen
Sous
a-piece
.
I
thank'd
him
for
his
Ingenuity
;
but
told
him
,
that
I
cou'd
not
trust
to
a
false
Pass-Port
.
Yet
they
are
as
sure
as
the
rest
,
answer'd
he
,
for
they
are
never
call'd
in
Question
;
and
all
the
Authentick
Pass-Ports
I
have
,
are
procur'd
on
the
Credit
of
such
as
I
wrote
with
my
own
Hand
,
for
otherwise
they
wou'd
not
give
me
any
:
However
,
you
may
please
your self
both
in
the
Choice
and
Goodness
of
your
Commodity
;
for
I
have
some
for
all
Places
.
Then
I
ask'd
him
one
for
Geneva
;
but
he
told
me
,
that
to
his
great
Sorrow
and
Loss
,
't
was
impossible
to
obtain
one
for
that
Place
;
assuring
me
,
that
if
he
had
a
Hundred
of
'em
,
he
cou'd
dispose
of
'em
all
at
the
Rate
of
Ten
Pistoles
a-piece
.
At
last
I
gave
him
two
Pistoles
for
a
Pass-Port
to
Rome
,
pretended
to
be
granted
by
the
Archbishop
of
Lions
to
one
Bidault
,
and
afterwards
ratify'd
and
approv'd
at
Vienne
.
He
swore
and
protested
that
't
wou'd
infallibly
procure
me
an
unquestion'd
Passage
;
but
the
extream
desire
I
had
to
make
my
Escape
out
of
France
rather
than
any
Credit
I
gave
to
his
Asseverations
,
made
me
willing
to
run
the
Hazard
;
tho'
,
after
all
,
I
apprehended
the
Danger
to
be
greater
than
it
really
was
:
For
assoon
as
I
presented
my
counterfeit
Pass-Port
to
the
Marquess
de
S.
André
,
he
granted
me
another
without
the
least
Difficulty
,
appointing
me
to
pass
thro'
Chambery
,
S.
John
de
Morienne
,
and
Turin
.
Grenoble
became
the
Capital
City
of
Dauphiné
,
when
Charles
VII
.
establish'd
a
Parliament
in
it
,
and
has
ever
since
continu'd
in
the
possession
of
that
Dignity
.
This
Country
was
bequeath'd
to
King
Philip
de
Valois
,
by
Humbert
,
the
last
Prince
of
Dauphine
,
on
condition
that
from
thenceforth
the
Presumptive
Heir
of
the
Crown
of
France
,
shou'd
be
stil'd
Dauphin
of
Viennois
;
and
bear
in
his
Coat-Armorial
the
Arms
of
France
quarter'd
with
those
of
Dauphiné
,
which
are
,
Or
,
a
Dolphin
Azure
,
Crested
,
Finn'd
,
and
Ear'd
Gules
.
The
Tomb
of
Andrew
,
Humbert's
Son
,
is
in
the
Church
of
the
Dominicans
that
fronts
the
Place
de
Grenette
,
which
is
the
finest
in
Grenoble
,
both
for
its
Largeness
,
and
the
Magnificence
of
the
Building
with
which
't
is
adorn'd
,
especially
the
Parliament-House
,
to
which
you
enter
thro'
a
Court
,
border'd
with
Shops
full
of
all
sorts
of
Commodities
:
'T
is
of
an
Antique
Structure
,
and
the
Chambers
are
very
well
furnish'd
.
The
Governour
's
House
is
large
,
and
has
the
Advantage
of
a
very
pleasant
Prospect
.
The
Episcopal
Church
of
Nôtre-Dame
is
another
Piece
of
Architecture
remarkable
for
its
Antiquity
.
But
after
all
,
't
is
certain
that
the
principal
Glory
of
Grenoble
consists
not
in
its
Buildings
;
and
they
who
wou'd
have
the
pleasure
to
be
acquainted
with
all
its
Beauty
,
must
not
expect
to
gratifie
their
Curiosity
by
a
Transient
View
of
it
.
For
it
has
the
Honour
to
be
the
Seat
of
several
Noble
Families
,
who
are
so
far
above
the
Clownishness
that
might
be
expected
in
so
remote
a
Province
,
that
their
Conversation
and
Deportment
may
be
justly
reckon'd
the
Standard
of
Civility
and
good
Breeding
:
So
that
a
Stranger
is
amaz'd
to
find
the
most
refin'd
Politeness
of
the
Court
in
the
midst
of
those
wild
Mountains
.
'T
is
seated
on
the
Banks
of
Issere
,
in
a
Valley
,
which
my
Natural
aversion
to
all
Hilly
Countries
will
not
suffer
me
to
call
Pleasant
.
Yet
at
my
departure
from
the
City
,
I
saw
some
places
that
must
be
acknowledged
to
have
a
kind
of
dismal
Beauty
,
especially
the
Monastery
of
the
Carthusians
.
The
very
Ascent
to
it
is
a
Journey
of
six
Hours
,
thro'
Ways
that
are
almost
only
passable
for
Mules
,
which
are
very
common
and
extremely
fine
in
this
Country
:
At
least
I
can
assure
you
,
that
those
who
live
in
it
may
for
ever
despair
of
seeing
any
Coach
or
Waggon
near
their
Habitation
,
unless
it
be
made
upon
the
Place
.
These
Mountains
,
that
seem
to
have
been
appointed
by
Nature
as
a
wild
Retreat
for
Wolves
and
Boars
,
are
nevertheless
inhabited
by
Humane
Creatures
,
if
I
may
give
that
Name
to
Animals
that
seem
to
have
a
nearer
resemblance
to
Bears
than
Men.
Their
Habit
consists
of
so
Course
a
Cloth
,
that
they
never
wear
above
one
Suit
of
Clothes
during
their
whole
Life
,
tho'
it
shou'd
last
an
hundred
Years
.
'T
is
a
certain
reddish
Stuff
,
of
the
thickness
of
two
Crown
Pieces
,
and
every
Thread
in
it
is
at
least
as
big
as
Packthread
.
These
miserable
Wretches
are
perfect
Strangers
to
all
manner
of
Pleasure
:
Their
main
or
only
Happiness
consists
in
filling
their
Stomachs
with
a
sort
of
Bread
that
none
of
our
Dogs
wou'd
taste
;
and
even
that
is
a
Rarity
among
'em
:
They
drink
Water
,
and
live
Night
and
Day
in
Huts
of
Straw
in
the
midst
of
their
Oxen
,
Cows
,
and
Hogs
,
which
are
their
usual
Companions
,
and
are
utterly
unacquainted
with
the
Transactions
of
the
rest
of
Mankind
.
'T
is
impossible
to
approach
the
Monastery
without
feeling
an
over-bearing
Melancholy
that
damps
the
gayest
Spirits
:
't
is
seated
between
two
high
and
rugged
Mountains
or
rather
perpendicular
Rocks
,
and
the
Ghastliness
of
the
Prospect
is
heighten'd
by
the
Pine-Trees
,
that
cast
a
dismal
Shade
upon
the
jutting
Cliffs
.
And
to
compleat
the
Horrour
of
the
Place
,
the
Ears
are
stunn'd
with
the
amazing
Dinn
of
a
Torrent
that
rolls
impetuously
thro'
the
Bottom
which
separates
the
Mountains
.
The
Monks
have
spar'd
no
Pains
to
cut
a
Way
thro'
those
naturally
impassable
Precipices
;
and
't
is
certain
that
so
laborious
a
Work
cou'd
not
be
perform'd
without
a
vast
Expence
of
Treasure
.
However
they
cannot
be
accus'd
of
throwing
away
their
Money
upon
useless
Projects
;
for
,
if
you
except
the
trouble
of
ascending
and
descending
,
a
Man
may
walk
pretty
easily
to
the
Convent
from
the
Bridges
that
are
built
at
the
two
Ends
,
and
in
the
narrowest
Places
at
the
Bottom
,
especially
that
next
Grenoble
,
which
joins
the
opposite
Mountains
with
a
little
Arch
that
over-looks
the
Torrent
,
and
is
commanded
by
a
House
at
the
End
of
the
Bridge
,
which
Ten
Men
might
defend
against
a
Hundred
thousand
.
Nor
is
the
Passage
to
the
Convent
less
difficult
on
the
other
side
,
so
that
it
might
be
justly
esteem'd
a
very
considerable
Post
,
if
it
were
as
important
as
't
is
strong
:
but
in
my
Opinion
the
Uselesness
of
the
Conquest
secures
it
as
effectually
against
the
Attacks
of
an
Enemy
,
as
the
Strength
of
its
Situation
.
These
Passages
end
in
a
sort
of
Meadow
or
little
Valley
,
containing
a
hundred
Paces
in
breadth
,
and
a
large
quarter
of
a
League
in
length
,
where
the
Monastery
is
seated
.
The
Monks
have
made
several
successless
Attempts
to
cultivate
and
embellish
their
solitary
Abode
;
which
are
so
many
convincing
Proofs
of
the
Badness
of
the
Soil
,
that
makes
it
incapable
of
Improvement
.
However
,
they
still
continue
to
encrease
their
Buildings
,
for
they
have
the
Advantage
of
Wood
,
Stones
,
and
Iron
upon
the
Spot
,
besides
the
Conveniency
of
Mills
,
that
are
turn'd
by
a
small
Torrent
which
passes
by
the
Convent
,
and
furnishes
'em
plentifully
with
Water
.
I
'm
perswaded
they
cannot
eat
one
half
of
their
Yearly
Revenue
,
which
amounts
to
300000
Livres
:
tho'
Gentlemen
of
their
Order
are
seldom
guilty
of
pinching
their
Bellies
,
and
tho'
they
are
at
a
vast
Charge
in
bringing
every
thing
from
Grenoble
.
Assoon
as
I
arriv'd
,
the
Father
,
who
is
appointed
to
take
Care
of
Strangers
,
brought
me
into
the
Chamber
call'd
the
Inn
,
or
Place
of
Entertainment
,
where
they
immediately
kindl'd
a
great
Fire
,
which
was
a
very
seasonable
piece
of
Hospitality
,
for
I
was
almost
frozen
with
Cold.
Not
long
after
the
the
Father-Prior
came
to
make
me
a
Compliment
,
and
left
a
Monk
to
keep
me
Company
during
my
Abode
in
that
Place
.
The
Earliness
of
my
Arrival
gave
me
an
Opportunity
to
visit
the
whole
House
,
after
I
had
enjoy'd
for
some
time
the
comfortable
Warmth
of
the
Fire
.
In
the
first
place
,
my
Father-Companion
shew'd
me
the
Church
,
which
is
long
and
narrow
for
want
of
Room
:
the
Walls
are
lin'●
with
Wood
,
as
in
all
the
other
Apartments
,
by
reason
of
the
Moisture
of
the
Place
,
that
not
only
spoils
the
Paintings
and
Ornaments
,
but
occasion●
violent
Distempers
.
Afterwards
we
visited
the
Ha●
of
the
Chapter-General
,
which
is
wainscotted
lik●
the
Church
,
and
adorn'd
with
some
Pictures
;
an●
among
the
rest
I
took
particular
notice
of
a
ver●
fine
Piece
,
representing
the
Martyrdom
of
certai●
Fathers
of
the
Order
in
England
.
From
thence
〈◊〉
went
to
the
King
's
and
Bishop's
Apartments
,
whe●●
they
usually
receive
Persons
of
great
Quality
;
fo●
others
are
generally
entertain'd
in
the
Room
where
〈◊〉
was
lodg'd
:
the
Furniture
of
these
Apartments
is
ne●●
without
Magnificence
.
The
Chapel
of
the
Novice●
is
,
in
my
Opinion
,
the
principal
Ornament
of
th●
Monastery
:
for
't
is
wholly
built
of
Marble
,
ver●
curiously
wrought
with
Basso-relievo's
,
and
excelle●●
Paintings
;
and
besides
the
Altar
is
adorn'd
with
〈◊〉
Tabernacle
of
Amber
,
which
is
a
valuable
Piec●
and
was
presented
to
'em
by
a
Polander
.
Since
th●
usual
Contrivance
of
this
kind
of
Structures
w●●
impracticable
in
this
place
,
instead
of
a
Square
Cloyster
,
they
were
forc'd
to
build
a
Row
of
Cells
,
above
300
Paces
in
length
.
After
I
had
taken
a
View
of
all
the
Apartments
,
my
Guide
brought
me
back
to
my
Chamber
,
where
we
supp'd
on
Fish
;
for
there
is
no
Flesh
eaten
in
the
House
;
after
which
he
left
me
to
repose
.
Next
Morning
about
Nine
a-clock
he
return'd
,
to
conduct
me
to
the
Place
where
S.
Bruno
perform'd
his
Penance
,
which
is
not
accessible
without
great
difficulty
,
being
on
the
Top
of
the
Mountain
,
and
so
extremely
Cold
,
that
I
cannot
imagine
it
was
ever
inhabited
by
Men.
Nevertheless
these
Fathers
assur'd
me
,
that
't
was
the
constant
Habitation
of
that
Saint
,
with
his
Six
Companions
;
and
shew'd
me
certain
Caves
or
Grotto's
cut
out
of
the
Rock
,
where
they
spent
their
Days
in
the
Exercise
of
Religious
Austerities
.
Since
that
time
the
Monks
erected
a
very
fine
Chapel
,
enrich'd
with
several
Pictures
;
among
which
that
of
the
Saint
himself
is
particularly
remarkable
for
its
finish'd
Beauty
.
They
forget
not
to
make
Strangers
take
notice
of
their
Rock
,
on
which
,
if
you
can
believe
their
Tradition
,
an
Angel
appear'd
to
him
every
Day
,
and
brought
him
his
necessary
Food
.
But
it
seems
his
Companions
were
not
so
much
in
love
with
Mortification
;
for
after
his
Death
they
left
the
Hermitage
,
and
descended
half
a
League
lower
,
to
the
place
where
the
Monastery
is
now
seated
,
with
the
permission
of
S
Peter
himself
;
who
did
'em
the
favour
to
appear
in
Person
on
that
Occasion
,
and
promis'd
'em
the
Virgin
's
Assistance
,
on
condition
they
shou'd
rehearse
her
Office
once
every
Day
:
It
must
be
acknowledg'd
that
these
Fathers
do
not
content
themselves
with
a
bare
verbal
Renunciation
of
the
World
and
of
Themselves
;
for
their
Practice
is
suitable
to
the
Austerity
of
their
Profession
.
The
Solitude
of
their
Recess
is
certainly
worthy
of
Admiration
;
they
live
in
a
perpetual
Confinement
among
those
almost
inaccessible
Mountains
,
where
they
spend
their
Lives
in
Prayer
,
Contemplation
,
and
the
Severities
of
Repentance
;
and
are
so
little
acquainted
with
the
rest
of
the
World
,
that
they
are
ignorant
even
of
the
most
Remarkable
Occurrences
that
are
transacted
in
it
.
They
never
eat
Flesh
,
fast
three
quarters
of
the
Year
,
submit
to
the
rigour
of
Monastical
Discipline
twice
every
Week
,
wear
Sackcloth
,
spend
nine
Hours
in
the
Church
every
Day
,
observe
a
perpetual
Silence
,
and
undergo
voluntary
and
frequent
Acts
of
Mortification
:
So
that
if
those
Persons
be
damn'd
at
last
,
I
may
venture
to
say
that
they
buy
Hell
at
as
dear
a
rate
as
the
Saints
purchase
Paradise
.
To
make
you
less
apt
to
suspect
the
Truth
of
this
Relation
,
't
will
be
sufficient
to
tell
you
,
that
the
very
sight
of
the
place
inspir'd
me
with
so
resistless
a
Melancholy
,
that
I
spent
the
whole
Night
in
making
serious
Reflexions
on
the
Vanity
of
the
World
.
But
,
after
all
,
you
must
not
have
so
favourable
an
Opinion
of
the
force
of
this
Religious
Charm
,
as
to
imagine
it
sufficient
to
imprint
an
indelible
Character
of
Sanctity
;
for
I
assure
you
,
a
little
of
the
Air
of
the
World
soon
dissipated
all
my
additional
Devotion
,
and
I
began
to
recover
my
wonted
Gaiety
by
degrees
,
as
I
approach'd
Chambery
.
The
Way
thither
is
a
remarkable
Monument
of
the
Grandeur
and
Magnificence
of
Charles
Emmanuel
,
Duke
of
Savoy
,
by
whose
Orders
it
was
cut
out
of
the
Rock
,
for
the
Conveniency
of
his
Trading-Subjects
;
as
it
appears
by
an
Inscription
fasten'd
to
the
Rock
,
and
accompany'd
with
the
Arms
of
that
Prince
.
The
Road
for
a
considerable
distance
from
the
Monastery
,
is
border'd
with
Precipices
,
and
rugged
Cliffs
,
that
cast
forth
an
almost
innumerable
Multitude
of
impetuous
Torrents
,
which
roll
along
with
a
horrid
Dinn
.
But
afterwards
the
Traveller
has
time
to
recover
his
Senses
,
when
at
the
end
of
this
frightful
Passage
,
he
meets
with
a
pleasant
Road
,
that
brings
him
insensibly
to
Chambery
.
Chambery
is
the
principal
City
of
the
Dutchy
of
Savoy
,
seated
among
the
Mountains
on
the
little
Rivers
of
Orbane
and
Esse
.
As
for
Spiritual
Affairs
,
't
is
under
the
Jurisdiction
of
the
Bishop
of
Grenoble
;
and
for
its
Temporal
Government
,
there
is
a
Senate
,
or
Court
of
Justice
,
resembling
a
French
Parliament
,
which
takes
Cognizance
of
all
Civil
and
Criminal
Suits
;
and
its
Authority
is
extended
over
the
whole
Dutchy
.
This
is
all
the
Account
I
can
give
you
of
Chambery
;
only
I
can
assure
you
't
is
neither
large
,
strong
,
nor
beautiful
.
I
took
a
Pass-Port
of
the
President
,
and
proceeding
on
my
Journey
,
pass'd
by
Montmelian
,
about
two
Leagues
distant
from
Chambery
,
and
seated
on
the
Top
of
a
little
Hill
,
that
rises
like
a
Sugar-Loaf
in
the
midst
of
a
Valley
:
It
may
be
reckon'd
almost
impregnable
;
for
it
seems
to
be
plac'd
out
of
the
reach
of
all
other
Enemies
but
Famine
,
and
want
of
Provisions
:
But
the
Town
,
that
is
seated
below
,
is
a
Place
of
no
Defence
,
and
much
less
considerable
than
a
Thousand
Villages
in
France
.
S.
John
de
Morienne
,
where
I
arriv'd
the
next
Day
,
deserves
no
better
Character
,
tho'
it
be
honour'd
with
a
Bishop's
See
.
Here
I
took
another
Pass-Port
of
the
great
Vicar
,
which
I
may
reckon
cheap
,
tho'
it
cost
me
very
dear
;
for
it
brought
me
safe
to
this
place
,
without
being
at
the
Charge
of
renewing
it
.
Two
Days
after
I
arriv'd
at
the
Village
of
Laneburg
,
seated
directly
at
the
Foot
of
Mount
Cennis
.
This
remarkable
Hill
is
famous
both
for
its
height
,
in
which
respect
it
exceeds
the
tallest
Mountains
of
the
Alps
;
and
for
a
Bottomless
Lake
,
situated
in
the
middle
of
its
Surface
.
I
ascended
a
League
and
a
half
before
I
arriv'd
at
the
Lake
;
after
which
I
found
a
Plain
;
extending
about
a
large
League
;
and
in
that
an
Inn
,
where
I
was
accommodated
with
the
most
desirable
Entertainment
in
these
Mountains
,
I
mean
the
warmth
of
a
good
Fire
;
for
the
Way
is
lin'd
on
both
sides
with
vast
Hills
of
Snow
;
and
the
Wind
is
so
cold
and
piercing
,
that
the
poor
Traveller
is
hardly
able
to
support
himself
on
his
numm'd
Limbs
.
After
I
had
rested
an
Hour
,
I
mounted
my
Mule
,
for
there
are
no
other
Beasts
of
Carriage
able
to
pass
the
Mountain
;
and
found
the
Descent
on
the
other
side
as
troublesome
and
uneasie
as
the
Ascent
,
which
I
have
already
describ'd
.
The
same
Evening
I
arriv'd
at
Suza
,
a
little
City
in
the
Frontiers
of
Piedmont
,
seated
at
the
Foot
of
a
Mountain
,
and
separated
from
Turin
by
a
vast
and
fertil
Plain
:
It
has
the
Advantage
of
a
pure
and
healthy
Air
,
pleasant
Meadows
,
good
Wine
,
and
beautiful
Houses
.
The
warmth
of
the
Climate
exceeds
that
of
France
,
but
the
Heat
is
not
so
intollerable
as
at
Rome
;
so
that
the
Traveller
finds
as
great
an
Alteration
at
his
Descent
from
the
Mountains
of
Savoy
,
as
if
he
were
transported
in
an
Instant
from
Norway
to
Italy
;
and
is
agreeably
ravish'd
at
the
sudden
Change
of
a
stormy
Winter
into
a
Mild
and
Temperate
Spring
.
The
City
of
Turin
is
seated
at
the
other
end
of
this
charming
Plain
,
between
the
Po
and
the
Loire
,
which
furnish
it
abundantly
with
all
the
Necessaries
and
Conveniences
of
Life
.
'T
is
enclos'd
with
strong
Walls
,
and
surrounded
with
broad
,
deep
,
and
well-lin'd
Ditches
.
The
Cittadel
is
a
Master-piece
of
Fortification
;
for
the
Duke
has
spar'd
no
Cost
to
make
it
Strong
and
Magnificent
;
and
if
the
Goodness
of
the
Soil
had
been
suitable
to
the
Care
he
has
taken
to
improve
it
,
I
'm
confident
't
wou'd
have
been
absolutely
impregnable
.
The
Town
is
all
glorious
within
,
and
adorn'd
with
a
Thousand
Beauties
:
The
Publick
Places
are
spacious
,
all
newly
built
with
an
admirable
Regularity
:
The
Streets
are
broad
,
and
streight
as
a
Line
:
The
noblest
improvements
of
Architecture
are
magnificently
display'd
in
the
Palaces
;
the
Gilding
,
Paintings
,
and
other
Ornaments
of
the
Churches
are
suitable
to
the
Beauty
of
the
Buildings
;
the
Shops
are
full
of
all
sorts
of
rich
and
fine
Stuffs
;
and
the
Academies
for
riding
the
Great
Horse
,
Dancing
,
and
Martial
Exercises
,
deserve
a
particular
Observation
.
And
to
compleat
the
Glories
of
the
Place
,
there
is
a
Court
,
that
,
notwithstanding
its
smallness
,
may
be
justly
reckon'd
the
Seat
of
Gallantry
and
Politeness
;
'T
is
compos'd
of
a
Society
of
both
Sexes
,
that
are
equally
Admirable
;
the
Ladies
for
their
resistless
Charms
;
and
the
Men
for
a
Nobleness
of
Mien
,
and
Magnificence
of
Garb
,
that
seems
peculiar
to
themselves
.
Thus
,
Sir
,
I
have
endeavour'd
to
give
you
in
few
Words
,
a
just
Idea
of
this
Charming
City
;
for
it
wou'd
be
an
endless
Labour
to
undertake
the
particular
Description
of
every
fine
Church
,
and
beautiful
Palace
,
in
a
place
where
such
Structures
are
no
Rarities
.
All
the
Ornaments
of
this
City
are
Modern
;
at
least
I
cou'd
not
,
upon
the
strictest
Enquiry
,
discover
any
other
Antiquities
than
those
in
the
Duke's
Gallery
,
which
is
full
of
all
sorts
of
fine
Paintings
,
rare
Munuscripts
,
Medals
,
Vases
,
and
other
Curiosities
of
that
Nature
.
The
Gate
of
the
Palace
is
defended
with
two
Culverins
,
admirable
for
their
Largeness
and
Workmanship
;
and
a
Mortar
of
a
prodigious
bigness
.
The
Metropolitan
Church
is
dedicated
to
S.
John
,
and
exceeds
all
the
rest
in
Magnificence
:
'T
is
a
stately
Dome
,
enrich'd
on
the
Inside
with
Paintings
,
of
a
finish'd
Regularity
and
Fineness
:
And
to
all
the
other
Ornaments
,
there
was
lately
added
a
Chapel
of
a
surprizing
Beauty
and
Richness
.
This
admirable
Structure
is
of
an
excellent
Architecture
,
and
seems
in
a
manner
to
be
overlaid
with
a
glittering
Cover
of
Gold
and
Silver
:
'T
was
built
on
purpose
for
the
Holy
Handkerchief
,
which
is
kept
there
at
present
.
You
cannot
imagine
with
what
Devotion
the
People
of
this
Place
adorn
that
Relick
;
which
is
a
little
Sheet
,
with
the
Image
of
our
Saviour
painted
very
imperfectly
in
the
middle
,
of
a
yellowish
Colour
.
I
need
not
tell
you
that
this
is
commonly
pretended
to
be
the
same
Cloth
in
which
Christ's
Face
was
wrapt
at
his
Burial
,
and
that
his
Image
was
miraculously
stamp'd
upon
it
:
But
there
are
so
many
other
Pretenders
to
the
same
Dignity
,
that
I
will
not
undertake
to
decide
so
doubtful
a
Controversie
.
According
to
all
Appearance
,
the
Duke
of
Sav●y
will
not
remain
long
in
the
King's
Interests
;
for
he
has
already
given
out
Commissions
for
the
levying
of
two
Regiments
of
Foot
,
and
one
of
Dragoons
,
with
an
express
Order
,
not
to
receive
a
Frenchman
into
'em
;
and
besides
,
't
is
certain
that
he
did
not
oppose
the
Passage
of
the
Barbets
,
as
he
might
have
easily
done
:
For
all
the
Motions
of
his
Troops
,
were
only
in
Order
to
their
Encampment
at
Verecil
;
and
I
'm
persuaded
the
only
reason
why
he
suffer'd
the
French
to
act
on
that
Occasion
,
was
because
he
cou'd
not
hinder
'em
.
I
have
met
with
another
Obstacle
,
that
will
retard
my
Journey
to
Isaly
for
some
time
;
for
the
whole
Country
is
full
of
Spaniards
,
who
Infest
all
the
Roads
,
and
commit
a
Thousand
Robberies
.
The
People
here
are
daily
alarm'd
with
fresh
Accounts
of
these
Disorders
;
so
that
I
have
been
at
last
prevail'd
with
to
alter
my
Resolution
,
and
am
going
to
take
Journey
for
Marseilles
,
where
I
'm
certainly
inform'd
I
may
find
daily
Opportunities
of
embarking
for
Genoa
or
Leghorn
.
I
am
,
SIR
,
Your
&c.
Turin
,
Nov.
1689.
LETTER
VI.
SIR
,
DUring
my
short
stay
at
Turin
after
the
Wriing
of
my
last
Letter
,
I
had
not
the
Opportunity
of
making
any
remarkable
Observation
that
I
had
not
taken
notice
of
before
;
and
therefore
all
that
I
shall
add
to
the
Account
I
gave
you
of
that
City
,
is
,
that
the
People
have
an
extraordinary
Love
to
their
Sovereign
.
You
'll
perhaps
tell
me
,
that
this
is
not
a
very
uncommon
Observation
,
since
't
is
natural
for
all
Men
to
respect
their
Governours
:
But
I
hope
you
'll
acknowledge
,
that
there
are
various
Degrees
in
this
kind
of
Affection
,
as
well
as
in
all
others
;
and
that
I
cannot
be
accus'd
of
Trifling
,
when
I
assure
you
,
that
never
was
the
Breast
of
any
Subject
fill'd
with
a
more
ardent
and
respectful
Love
to
his
Prince
,
than
that
which
the
Inhabitants
of
Piedmont
have
for
the
Duke
of
Savoy
.
Nor
is
their
Zeal
for
his
Interest
,
and
Affection
to
his
Person
,
the
Effect
of
a
blind
Inclination
:
For
't
is
no
wonder
that
those
who
owe
their
Happiness
to
the
mild
Influences
of
his
Government
are
charm'd
with
the
Greatness
of
his
Courage
and
Magnamity
,
and
a
Thousand
other
rare
Perfections
,
of
which
he
is
certainly
Master
in
a
very
eminent
Degree
.
The
Dutchess
is
an
illustrious
Example
of
Conjugal
Affection
:
't
is
true
,
she
is
not
unmindful
of
the
Blood
that
fills
her
Veins
;
nor
will
ever
forget
that
Natural
Inclination
to
the
place
of
her
Nativity
,
that
obliges
her
to
be
the
declar'd
Protectress
of
the
French
:
But
her
Love
to
her
Country
is
not
strong
enough
to
lessen
that
which
she
owes
to
her
Lord
,
and
puts
not
the
least
Byass
on
her
Mind
when
it
comes
in
Competition
with
his
Interest
.
I
forgot
to
tell
you
in
my
last
,
that
it
Rains
almost
perpetually
at
Turin
;
and
,
(
whatever
you
may
think
on
't
)
this
is
a
very
important
Remark
for
Persons
of
my
Humour
and
Fortune
.
I
cannot
forbear
complaining
of
the
Unkindness
of
my
Destiny
,
that
exposes
me
to
be
drench'd
with
every
Shower
for
want
of
a
Coach
,
and
even
envying
the
Happiness
of
those
who
are
better
provided
;
for
,
if
God
had
thought
fit
to
intrust
me
with
the
Management
of
10000
Livres
a
Year
,
I
wou'd
not
have
deny'd
my self
the
Pleasure
of
Travelling
in
a
portable
House
.
From
Turin
I
came
in
seven
Hours
to
Pignerol
.
The
Town
is
very
well
fortify'd
;
and
the
Cittadel
,
as
now
it
stands
,
after
so
many
Additions
and
Alterations
,
may
be
justly
reckon'd
one
of
the
strongest
places
in
his
Majesty's
Possession
,
and
a
terrible
Thorn
in
the
Duke
of
Savoy's
Foot
,
which
may
one
Day
make
him
halt
,
if
he
do
not
take
care
to
pluck
it
out
.
Here
the
unfortunate
Monsieur
Fouquet
spent
the
last
part
of
his
Life
,
and
(
as
't
is
generally
believ'd
)
compos'd
that
admirable
Treatise
,
entitul'd
,
The
Counsels
of
Wisdom
.
If
that
Report
be
true
,
even
his
Enemies
must
acknowledge
,
that
the
Confinement
of
his
Body
disturb'd
not
the
Freedom
and
Tranquillity
of
his
Mind
,
and
that
he
was
entirely
disengag'd
from
the
Allurements
of
this
World
.
Nevertheless
,
I
'm
certainly
inform'd
by
Persons
of
unsuspected
Credit
,
that
he
attempted
to
make
his
Escape
by
cutting
the
Sheets
of
his
Bed
;
and
that
he
was
afterwards
put
under
a
Guard
of
four
Centinels
instead
of
one
,
as
well
as
the
Count
de
Lausun
,
who
about
four
Years
ago
had
little
reason
to
flatter
himself
with
the
hopes
of
a
Release
.
The
Marquess
d'Herville
,
the
present
Governour
of
Pignerol
,
is
a
Man
of
a
large
and
comely
Stature
,
brave
,
and
well
acquainted
with
the
Duties
of
his
Office
.
Leaving
Pignerol
I
proceeded
on
my
Journey
thro'
the
long
Valley
of
Sestriere
to
Guillestre
,
and
from
thence
by
the
Way
of
Briançon
to
Ambrun
,
a
little
City
on
the
Frontiers
of
Dauphiné
,
inaccessible
on
one
side
,
by
reason
of
the
Steepness
of
the
Rock
on
which
't
is
built
,
but
only
defended
on
the
other
with
a
weak
and
single
Wall
.
The
Archbishoprick
of
this
Place
is
at
present
possess'd
by
Monsieur
de
Genlis
,
Nephew
to
the
Marquess
de
Genlis
,
Lieutenant-General
of
his
Majesty's
Forces
,
and
Captain-Lieutenant
of
the
Duke
of
Anjou's
Company
of
Geudarms
.
This
Prelate
signaliz'd
his
Courage
and
Zeal
in
the
late
Campaign
against
the
Vaudois
;
for
he
remain'd
in
the
Camp
all
the
Summer
,
and
was
personally
engag'd
in
the
Battel
of
Salbertrand
:
And
this
unusual
Bravery
in
a
Man
of
his
Character
,
has
procur'd
him
so
much
Honour
and
Authority
in
the
Country
,
that
when
I
produc'd
his
Pass-Port
at
Gap
,
the
Major
,
who
commanded
in
the
Place
,
told
me
that
if
it
had
been
sign'd
by
the
King
himself
it
wou'd
not
have
been
so
much
respected
.
'T
is
true
he
gave
me
a
very
favourable
Character
,
for
he
was
not
ignorant
that
I
had
the
Honour
to
be
very
well
known
to
his
Uncle
:
and
't
was
also
on
that
Score
that
he
kept
me
two
days
at
Ambrun
,
and
entertain'd
me
with
a
great
deal
of
Kindness
.
You
must
give
me
leave
to
detain
you
a
while
with
an
Account
of
my
fatiguing
Passage
over
Mount
Genevre
:
for
tho'
it
be
neither
so
large
nor
so
high
as
Cenis
,
the
crossing
of
that
Mountain
put
me
to
more
Trouble
and
Pain
than
ever
I
suffer'd
in
any
one
day
of
my
Life
.
I
was
mounted
on
a
Horse
that
was
not
worth
Six-pence
,
which
I
hir'd
of
a
Peasant
at
Briançon
,
and
accompany'd
with
a
Guide
who
was
utterly
unacquainted
with
the
Roads
,
and
carry'd
me
quite
out
of
the
Way
.
But
that
was
not
my
greatest
Misfortune
,
for
my
Horse
stuck
so
fast
in
the
Snow
,
which
reach'd
above
his
Belly
,
that
I
cou'd
not
make
him
go
one
Step
farther
,
and
was
at
last
forc'd
to
alight
and
endeavour
to
open
a
Passage
for
him
to
the
High-way
;
for
I
perceiv'd
certain
Sticks
at
a
considerable
distance
,
which
(
I
knew
)
were
set
up
as
Marks
to
keep
Travellers
from
wandring
out
of
the
Road.
But
I
quickly
found
my
Design
impracticable
,
for
both
I
and
my
Horse
were
so
benumn'd
with
the
Cold
,
that
we
cou'd
hardly
stir
a
Leg
;
and
besides
the
Wind
drove
the
Snow
upon
me
faster
than
I
cou'd
rake
it
away
:
so
that
I
was
beginning
to
give
over
my
useless
Labour
,
and
to
reflect
in
good
earnest
on
a
Death
that
seem'd
unavoidable
,
when
I
discover'd
certain
black
Spots
,
that
gave
me
some
hope
of
finding
a
Village
not
far
the
place
where
I
thought
to
have
ended
my
days
.
Immediately
I
left
my
Guide
,
Horse
and
Baggage
,
and
,
feeble
as
I
was
,
ventur'd
into
the
midst
of
the
Snow
,
in
quest
of
those
Houses
,
where
at
last
,
by
God's
Assistance
,
I
arriv'd
,
and
was
receiv'd
with
all
imaginable
Marks
of
Kindness
by
those
Hospitable
Wretches
,
who
brought
me
into
one
of
their
Hutts
,
which
I
found
stuff'd
with
Oxen
,
Cows
,
Sheep
,
Cats
,
Dogs
,
and
(
the
most
miserable
Part
of
the
Family
)
Men
and
Women
.
Nevertheless
I
assure
you
that
the
Sight
of
this
Place
,
which
perhaps
at
another
time
wou'd
have
turn'd
my
Stomach
,
seem'd
more
charming
to
me
in
that
Extremity
,
than
the
most
glorious
Palace
that
ever
I
beheld
:
I
fansi'd
my self
restor'd
from
Death
to
Life
assoon
as
I
enter'd
that
Resemblance
of
a
Hog's
Stie
,
which
was
as
hot
as
a
Stove
.
In
the
mean
time
I
begg'd
some
of
my
kind
Hosts
to
compleat
their
Charity
,
by
going
to
relieve
the
Poor
Creature
,
whom
I
had
left
with
my
Horse
in
the
midst
of
the
Snow
:
and
their
Assistance
came
very
seasonably
,
for
he
had
certainly
perish'd
if
they
had
stay'd
half
a
quarter
of
an
hour
longer
.
After
I
had
the
Satisfaction
of
seeing
him
alive
,
I
stretch'd
my
weary'd
Body
on
a
Heap
of
Straw
,
where
I
enjoy'd
the
most
comfortable
Night's
Rest
that
ever
I
had
in
my
Life
.
The
next
day
I
feasted
on
a
Piece
of
Bread
exactly
of
the
Colour
of
Soot
,
and
a
little
dry
and
salt
Cheese
;
and
was
in
the
mean
time
entertain'd
with
an
Account
of
their
Way
of
Living
in
this
Place
.
They
told
me
that
they
were
imprison'd
in
their
dismal
Habitations
,
and
almost
bury'd
in
the
Snow
for
the
Space
of
seven
Months
,
every
Year
;
during
which
time
they
linger
out
a
miserable
Life
in
the
midst
of
Stench
and
Nastiness
.
After
my
Arrival
at
Gap
,
I
sent
back
my
Horse
,
and
hir'd
another
,
which
I
found
there
by
chance
,
to
Sisteron
.
But
to
compleat
the
Misfortunes
of
my
disastrous
Journey
,
as
I
was
crossing
a
very
rapid
Torrent
about
a
League
from
the
last
of
these
Places
,
having
occasion
to
blow
my
Nose
,
I
pull'd
my
Handkerchief
out
of
my
Pocket
,
and
with
that
the
Box
with
my
Pass-Ports
,
which
fell
into
the
Stream
,
and
was
in
an
instant
carry'd
quite
out
of
my
Sight
.
If
my
Purse
with
all
the
Money
I
was
Master
of
,
had
been
irrecoverably
lost
,
I
cou'd
not
have
been
more
sensibly
vex'd
:
for
when
I
consider'd
with
what
Rigour
I
had
been
every
where
examin'd
notwithstanding
my
Pass-Ports
,
I
concluded
that
Imprisonment
was
the
mildest
Treatment
I
cou'd
expect
to
receive
at
Sisteron
.
These
Reflexions
kept
me
for
some
time
in
an
Irresolution
,
whether
I
shou'd
go
forwards
;
but
since
the
Danger
was
equal
either
Way
,
I
resolv'd
to
proceed
on
my
Journey
,
tho'
I
shou'd
be
forc'd
to
take
up
my
Lodging
in
a
Gaol
.
I
found
,
to
my
Cost
,
the
Accomplishment
of
those
Melancholick
Presages
;
for
the
Governour
laugh'd
at
my
Excuses
,
and
told
me
that
I
must
needs
have
a
very
mean
Opinion
of
his
Judgment
,
if
I
thought
to
put
him
off
with
such
an
ill-contriv'd
Story
.
Confess
the
Truth
,
added
he
,
you
are
one
of
the
Barbets
,
and
are
going
to
Languedoc
and
Dauphiné
,
to
persuade
the
new
Converts
in
those
Provinces
to
join
with
your
Party
:
I
answer'd
,
That
I
was
too
Loyal
a
Subject
to
his
Majesty
,
and
too
zealous
a
Catholick
to
undertake
such
a
Commission
;
that
I
was
a
meer
Stranger
to
the
Barbets
;
that
I
came
from
Turin
,
and
was
going
to
Rome
.
What
,
Sir
,
reply'd
he
,
you
came
from
Turin
?
Morbleau
,
you
came
with
the
Barbets
:
I
'm
better
acquainted
with
your
Tricks
than
you
imagine
;
I
say
you
did
come
with
'em
,
and
I
'll
shew
you
presently
some
of
your
own
Friends
,
who
will
maintain
it
to
your
Face
.
Immediately
he
order'd
two
of
those
unhappy
Wretches
that
were
fall'n
into
his
Hands
,
to
be
brought
before
him
,
and
assoon
as
they
appear'd
,
Here
is
one
of
your
Officers
,
said
he
to
'em
,
whom
we
have
caught
straggling
.
He
wou'd
have
us
believe
that
he
has
deserted
your
Party
,
and
left
you
with
a
Design
to
submit
to
the
King
;
but
we
have
Reason
to
suspect
his
Sincerity
.
Confess
the
Truth
ingenuously
,
and
declare
all
that
you
know
concerning
him
,
as
the
only
way
you
can
take
to
obtain
the
King's
Mercy
.
If
I
had
been
guilty
of
entertaining
a
Correspondence
with
these
People
,
I
wou'd
have
immediately
said
something
to
undeceive
'em
,
and
prevent
their
biting
the
Hook
:
but
since
I
was
altogether
unacquainted
with
'em
,
I
was
glad
of
that
Occasion
to
justifie
my
Innocency
,
and
expected
their
Answer
with
a
Silence
that
confuted
all
my
Accusers
:
and
besides
,
the
Prisoners
affirm'd
that
they
did
not
know
me
.
Then
the
Governour
began
to
examine
me
more
particularly
,
and
with
less
Prejudice
than
before
:
he
ask'd
me
which
way
I
came
,
where
I
receiv'd
Pass-Ports
,
and
who
had
any
Knowledge
of
me
.
In
answer
to
the
last
Question
,
having
nam'd
several
Persons
,
and
among
the
rest
the
Archbishop
of
Ambrun
,
the
Governour
assur'd
me
,
that
I
might
conclude
my self
out
of
Danger
,
if
that
Prelate
wou'd
undertake
to
answer
for
me
;
and
I
reply'd
,
that
I
hop'd
he
wou'd
not
deny
me
his
Testimony
.
Then
the
Governour
desir
d
me
to
write
to
him
,
telling
me
that
he
wou'd
accompany
my
Letter
with
another
,
and
that
in
the
mean
time
I
shou'd
be
confin'd
to
the
Cittadel
,
where
I
was
lodg'd
with
two
Lieutenants
,
from
whom
and
the
rest
of
the
Officers
,
I
receiv'd
all
imaginable
Marks
of
.
Civility
.
Four
days
after
,
the
Governour
having
receiv'd
a
very
favourable
Answer
from
the
Archbishop
of
Ambrun
,
sent
for
me
,
and
told
me
that
I
was
at
Liberty
to
depart
when
I
pleas'd
.
I
return'd
him
my
very
humble
Thanks
for
the
Justice
he
did
me
,
and
intreated
him
to
grant
me
a
Pass-Port
,
since
without
that
I
shou'd
certainly
be
stopp'd
,
and
perhaps
also
abus'd
by
the
first
Corps
de
Garde
of
Peasants
on
the
Road.
But
he
assur'd
me
that
there
was
no
need
of
a
Pass-Port
,
and
that
all
the
Roads
were
free
,
from
Sisteron
to
Marseilles
.
Since
I
have
had
occasion
to
mention
the
Barbets
so
often
,
I
believe
it
will
not
be
an
unwelcome
Gratification
of
your
Curiosity
,
to
give
you
an
Account
of
the
Original
of
that
Name
,
which
the
Piedmontois
and
Savoyards
give
to
the
Protestants
that
inhabit
their
Valleys
.
The
Word
Barbe
in
their
Language
signifies
Uncle
;
and
besides
,
an
Ancient
and
Venerable
Person
;
so
that
in
several
Places
't
is
the
usual
Custom
to
express
a
more
than
ordinary
Respect
to
a
Person
by
prefixing
this
Word
before
his
proper
Name
,
as
Barbe
Peter
,
Barbe
John
,
&c.
And
even
by
degrees
it
grew
in
such
Esteem
among
'em
,
that
they
thought
they
cou'd
not
give
a
more
honourable
Title
to
their
Ministers
,
whom
for
that
Reason
they
call'd
Barbe
du
Plessis
,
Barbe
du
Menil
,
&c.
From
hence
the
Protestants
in
this
Country
were
nick-nam'd
Barbets
,
as
in
France
they
are
call'd
Hugonots
,
and
in
Flanders
,
Gueux
.
Sisteron
is
seated
on
the
Durance
,
and
is
so
inconsiderable
a
Town
,
that
't
wou'd
be
an
useless
Waste
of
Time
and
Paper
to
undertake
the
Description
of
it
.
The
Cittadel
stands
on
a
very
steep
Mountain
,
and
is
consequently
strong
,
but
so
small
that
't
is
scarce
capable
of
Lodging
three
hundred
Soldiers
.
The
Marquess
de
Vallevoir
,
the
present
Governour
of
this
Place
,
is
an
old
Officer
,
very
well
known
,
and
much
esteem'd
by
the
Soldiers
.
The
double
Meaning
of
his
Name
had
once
almost
cost
him
his
Life
;
for
as
he
was
walking
at
Night
on
the
Ramparts
of
a
Town
of
which
he
was
Governour
,
a
new
Soldier
who
was
then
on
the
Watch
,
not
knowing
him
,
saluted
him
with
the
usual
Question
on
such
Occasions
,
Qui
va
là
,
Who
comes
there
?
to
which
he
answer'd
,
Vallevoir
.
But
the
Centinel
imagining
he
had
said
in
a
slighting
manner
,
Va
le
voir
,
Go
see
,
and
taking
it
either
as
an
Affront
,
or
as
a
Refusal
to
discover
his
Name
and
Quality
,
discharg'd
his
Musquet
,
and
shot
him
into
the
Belly
so
dangerously
,
that
he
had
almost
dy'd
of
the
Wound
.
From
Sisteron
I
came
in
a
Day
and
a
half
to
Aix
,
which
is
but
five
Leagues
distant
from
hence
,
and
was
founded
by
Caius
Sextius
,
a
Roman
Consul
,
who
call'd
it
by
his
own
Name
,
in
Memory
of
the
Hot
Baths
he
had
built
there
,
which
are
still
to
be
seen
without
the
Walls
.
'T
is
neither
large
nor
strong
,
but
it
may
be
justly
said
to
be
a
very
pleasant
City
,
for
't
is
seated
in
a
lovely
Plain
,
that
produces
Store
of
good
Wine
;
and
besides
,
't
is
adorn'd
with
a
considerable
Number
of
new
Houses
,
which
are
very
fine
,
and
built
after
the
Italian
Fashion
.
The
Nobility
of
Provence
are
,
without
dispute
,
the
greatest
Lovers
of
Building
in
France
,
and
are
at
the
greatest
Charge
in
gratifying
their
Inclinations
to
Architecture
;
and
there
are
in
this
Country
a
great
Number
of
admirably
well-contriv'd
Structures
that
may
pass
for
little
Palaces
.
The
Metropolitan
Church
,
call'd
S.
Saviour's
,
is
particularly
remarkable
for
the
Tombs
of
four
Counts
of
Provence
,
a
small
subterraneous
Chapel
,
where
't
is
said
S.
Mary
Magdalen
ended
her
Days
,
and
especially
the
Baptismal
Font
of
white
Marble
,
adorn'd
with
Reliefs
that
are
much
esteem'd
by
the
best
Judges
,
and
cover'd
with
a
little
Marble
Dome
,
supported
with
Columns
of
the
same
,
making
all
together
a
very
valuable
Piece
.
The
Place
des
Prêcheurs
is
the
finest
of
all
the
spacious
Courts
or
Squares
in
the
City
,
both
for
its
Neatness
and
Largeness
,
and
for
the
Beauty
of
the
Structures
that
surround
it
,
among
which
the
ancient
Palace
of
Justice
deserves
a
particular
Observation
.
In
one
of
its
Apartments
,
where
the
Counts
of
Provence
kept
their
Residence
,
there
is
a
very
fine
Room
,
at
present
call'd
,
The
King's
Chamber
,
richly
gilt
,
and
hung
round
with
the
Pictures
of
our
Kings
.
After
the
Traveller
has
satisfy'd
his
Curiosity
in
this
Place
,
he
may
visit
the
Cours
,
or
publick
Walking-Place
and
Rendezvous
of
Coaches
,
which
is
800
Paces
long
,
and
15
broad
,
without
reck'ning
the
pav'd
Streets
on
both
Sides
for
the
Coaches
.
'T
is
enclos'd
with
Ballisters
of
Wood
,
and
all
over-shadow'd
with
tufty
Trees
,
whose
spreading
Boughs
cast
such
an
agreeable
Coolness
in
the
Heat
of
Summer
,
that
one
may
walk
in
this
lovely
Place
without
the
least
incommodity
,
at
Three
a
Clock
in
the
Afternoon
:
and
besides
,
at
convenient
Intervals
,
there
are
Benches
of
Stone
,
where
those
who
are
weary
may
rest
themselves
.
The
Houses
that
environ
it
are
all
very
fine
,
and
inhabited
by
Persons
of
Quality
,
who
chuse
to
live
there
for
the
Pleasure
of
the
Prospect
,
and
the
Conveniency
of
walking
without
losing
Sight
of
their
Houses
.
This
is
the
general
Rendezvous
of
the
genteeler
part
of
the
Inhabitants
of
the
Town
,
who
flock
hither
every
Evening
,
and
encrease
the
Pleasures
of
the
Place
with
their
agreeable
Society
and
Conversation
.
You
will
be
easily
persuaded
to
believe
that
there
are
some
handsome
Women
to
be
found
among
so
much
good
Company
:
but
I
'm
afraid
you
'll
stand
in
need
of
all
your
Faith
to
give
Credit
to
another
Observation
I
made
in
this
City
.
'T
is
perhaps
the
peculiar
Advantage
of
the
Gentlemen
of
Aix
,
that
they
are
possess'd
of
the
dearest
and
most
distinguishing
Privilege
of
the
Beautiful
Sex
;
Ten
or
Twelve
of
'em
especially
,
who
are
so
many
Adolphus's
and
Jucundus's
,
and
out-vie
the
most
charming
Ladies
that
ever
were
admir'd
for
the
delicate
Mixture
of
Roses
and
Lilies
in
their
Complexion
,
the
Lustre
of
their
Eyes
,
and
the
incomparable
Graces
of
their
Mouth
.
These
wondrous
Youths
are
so
many
convincing
Proofs
of
the
Reasonableness
of
the
first
Part
of
that
common
Saying
in
this
Country
,
which
ascribes
the
Preeminence
in
Beauty
to
the
Men
of
Aix
,
and
the
Women
of
Marseilles
.
The
whole
Country
of
Provence
is
under
the
Authority
of
the
Parliament
,
which
was
establish'd
here
by
Lewis
XII
.
Ann.
1501.
The
Archbishoprick
of
this
Place
is
remarkable
for
its
Antiquity
,
and
the
Extent
of
its
Jurisdiction
:
for
't
is
the
Metropolitan
See
of
a
very
large
Ecclesiastical
Province
,
and
the
first
Bishop
was
S.
Maximin
,
a
Disciple
of
S.
Lazarus
.
Since
the
County
of
Provence
was
dismember'd
from
the
Roman
Empire
,
it
has
had
the
Misfortune
to
change
its
Masters
very
often
:
but
instead
of
presenting
you
with
a
Catalogue
of
all
its
Sovereigns
,
I
shall
content
my self
with
observing
that
it
was
annex'd
to
the
Crown
of
France
,
under
the
Reig●
of
Lewis
XI
.
by
René
,
Count
of
Provence
,
and
King
of
Naples
and
Sicily
;
and
that
the
Privileges
reserv'd
to
the
Inhabitants
,
by
the
Conditions
of
that
Donation
,
were
involv'd
in
the
same
Fate
with
those
of
Languedoc
,
Dauphiné
,
Burgundy
,
Bretaign
,
&c.
For
you
know
the
King
has
a
notable
Faculty
of
Judging
in
his
own
Cause
,
and
is
furnish'd
on
all
Occasions
,
with
irresistible
Arguments
to
demonstrate
,
That
his
Will
and
Pleasure
are
the
only
Limits
of
his
Royal
Authority
.
The
Air
of
this
Province
is
so
mild
,
that
't
is
seldom
or
never
observ'd
to
be
subject
to
Frosts
:
but
the
Advantages
of
its
Climate
are
considerably
lessen'd
by
the
Boisterousness
of
the
Winds
that
reign
in
it
.
And
besides
,
the
Country
is
generally
so
mountainous
,
that
one
half
of
it
is
not
cultivated
;
and
the
little
fertil
Ground
that
remains
,
is
so
full
of
Stones
,
that
a
Man
wou'd
be
tempted
to
think
they
had
been
purposely
brought
thither
.
The
Labourers
take
care
to
remove
those
that
lie
in
their
way
,
and
,
instead
of
Hedges
,
surround
their
Fields
with
Stone-Walls
,
which
are
almost
every
where
three
Foot
high
:
so
that
if
ever
this
Country
be
made
the
Seat
of
a
War
,
't
will
not
be
an
easie
Task
to
open
a
Passage
thro'
it
for
the
Cavalry
.
But
,
to
make
amends
for
the
Inconveniency
of
the
Soil
,
which
is
neither
proper
for
Corn
nor
Pasturage
,
it
produces
very
good
Wine
,
and
great
Store
of
such
excellent
Olives
,
that
the
Oil
of
'em
is
esteem'd
the
best
and
sweetest
in
Europe
.
The
Wine
is
of
several
Sorts
;
for
,
besides
the
Red
,
which
is
most
common
,
and
not
inferiour
to
Burgundy
,
there
is
the
Pale-Red
,
Red
,
White
,
and
delicious
Muscadin
.
The
best
grows
at
Ciotat
,
a
little
Town
between
Marseilles
and
Toulon
;
but
't
wou'd
be
needless
to
describe
its
Excellencies
to
you
,
who
have
tasted
it
so
often
at
Paris
.
There
is
also
a
mix'd
Sort
of
Wine
,
call'd
Malmsey
,
much
esteem'd
by
the
People
of
this
Country
,
who
make
it
,
by
boyling
Red
Muscadin
with
Cinnamon
,
Cloves
,
and
the
best
Aqua-Vitae
.
They
have
also
abundance
of
Ortolans
,
(
which
are
delicate
,
and
very
beautiful
Birds
,
of
the
Bigness
of
a
Lark
)
good
Quails
,
Red-legg'd
Partridges
,
and
some
Francolins
,
which
are
a
Sort
of
the
immediately
preceding
Species
of
Birds
,
for
they
have
both
the
same
Cry
,
and
Colour
of
Feathers
;
only
the
Wings
of
the
latter
are
spotted
,
black
and
white
,
their
Legs
are
somewhat
smaller
,
and
they
are
thought
to
exceed
the
others
very
considerably
in
their
Agreeableness
to
the
Taste
.
But
all
these
Marks
are
not
sufficient
to
distinguish
'em
when
they
are
dress'd
,
and
therefore
the
Cooks
usually
stick
one
of
the
Feathers
of
the
Wings
into
the
Body
of
a
Francolin
,
that
it
may
not
be
taken
for
a
Red
Partridge
.
'T
is
not
so
hard
a
Task
to
know
the
delicious
Earth-Apples
or
Swine-bread
,
that
are
so
cheap
in
this
Country
:
for
tho'
they
are
brought
to
the
Table
cover'd
with
a
Napkin
to
keep
'em
warm
,
the
whole
Chamber
is
immediately
perfum'd
with
their
odoriferous
Scent
.
You
must
not
imagine
your self
to
be
a
competent
Judge
of
this
excellent
subterraneous
Fruit
,
because
you
commonly
eat
'em
dry'd
in
Ragou's
at
Paris
:
for
they
are
incomparably
more
pleasant
,
when
the
fresh
Pulp
is
eaten
like
an
Apple
,
without
any
other
Preparation
than
peeling
off
the
Rind
.
'T
is
certain
,
that
Maids
have
reason
to
complain
of
the
Tyrannical
Custom
that
restrains
'em
from
tasting
a
Dish
which
all
the
World
admires
,
under
Pretext
that
't
is
too
powerful
an
Incentive
to
Amorous
Inclinations
.
This
kind
of
Earth-Apple
is
neither
a
Plant
,
Herb
,
nor
Mushroom
:
it
grows
in
a
very
little
time
,
sometimes
equalling
a
Man's
Fist
in
Bigness
;
and
is
always
found
at
the
depth
of
half
a
Foot
under
the
Surface
of
the
Ground
.
'T
wou'd
be
impossible
to
discover
these
admirable
Productions
of
the
Earth
,
without
the
Assistance
of
the
Hogs
,
who
smell
'em
out
:
The
Country
People
follow
these
Animals
,
especially
when
they
perceive
'em
busi'd
in
digging
up
the
Ground
;
and
when
they
have
gather'd
so
many
,
that
the
Weight
of
'em
may
amount
to
five
or
six
Pounds
,
they
carry
'em
to
the
Market
,
where
they
sell
'em
for
7
or
8
Sous
a
Pound
.
Next
these
you
cannot
imagine
any
thing
of
a
more
delicious
Taste
than
the
large
Grapes
of
Provence
,
which
the
People
of
the
Country
have
the
Secret
to
preserve
till
May
,
as
fresh
as
if
they
were
newly
pick'd
from
the
Tree
,
bringing
Baskets
full
of
'em
every
Day
to
the
Market
.
But
this
is
not
the
only
Reason
why
Provence
may
boast
of
an
Autumn
in
the
midst
of
Winter
;
for
the
Arbute-Trees
are
not
only
ever
green
,
like
Bays
,
but
continue
to
bear
Fruit
till
Carnaval-time
.
This
Fru●●
resembles
a
very
large
Straw-berry
;
but
its
Goodness
is
not
answerable
to
its
Beauty
,
for
't
is
full
of
small
Seeds
like
Sand.
These
,
with
the
excellent
Figs
that
are
so
common
in
this
Country
,
and
some
Peaches
,
are
,
I
think
,
all
the
Kinds
of
Fruit
that
are
to
be
found
in
it
.
But
I
must
except
the
Canton
of
Hieres
,
which
may
justly
dispute
with
Blois
the
Title
of
The
Garden
of
France
:
For
Orange
,
Citron
,
and
Pomegranate-Trees
grow
as
naturally
there
,
and
are
brought
up
with
as
little
Care
as
Oaks
and
Chesnut-Trees
in
other
Places
.
These
Advantages
are
owing
to
the
peculiar
Advantages
of
its
Situation
;
for
it
seems
to
ingross
all
the
Heat
and
fruitful
Influences
of
the
Sun
,
and
to
be
wholly
exempted
from
all
the
Inconveniencies
of
even
the
sharpest
Winters
.
You
may
expect
in
my
next
an
Account
of
the
City
of
Marseilles
,
and
of
S.
Baume
;
In
the
mean
time
I
am
,
with
a
great
deal
of
Zeal
and
Affection
,
SIR
,
Your
&c.
Marseilles
,
Dec.
1689.
LETTER
VII
.
SIR
,
MArseilles
is
one
of
the
most
ancient
Cities
in
France
;
and
tho
it
was
famous
in
all
Ages
,
't
is
not
an
easie
Task
to
trace
its
Original
,
notwithstanding
the
Opinion
of
some
Writers
,
who
pretend
that
't
was
founded
by
the
Greek
Exiles
,
who
were
driven
out
of
their
Country
by
Cyrus
the
Great
.
'T
was
formerly
the
seat
of
an
Illustrious
Assembly
of
learned
Senators
,
and
of
an
Accademy
,
which
was
the
general
Rendezvous
of
Studious
Persons
from
all
the
Corners
of
the
World
.
These
glorious
Advantages
made
it
in
a
manner
the
Metropolis
of
the
Commonwealth
of
Learning
;
and
inspir'd
the
Romans
with
so
high
an
Esteem
for
it
,
that
they
courted
the
Friendship
of
the
Citizens
of
Marseilles
,
while
the
rest
of
the
Inhabitants
of
Provence
were
their
Conquer'd
Vassals
.
After
the
Fall
of
the
Roman
Empire
,
't
was
govern'd
as
a
Republick
by
four
Counts
;
till
at
last
the
Inhabitants
,
finding
themselves
unable
to
withstand
the
united
force
of
their
Neighbours
,
put
themselves
under
the
Authority
and
Protection
of
the
Kings
of
France
.
But
the
Conditions
of
this
Voluntary
Submission
were
very
Honourable
and
Advantageous
for
't
was
concluded
,
that
the
City
and
its
Territory
,
which
comprehends
two
Leagues
round
,
shou'd
be
exempted
from
all
manner
of
Taxes
,
Charges
,
and
Impositions
;
that
the
King
shou'd
not
pretend
a
Right
to
any
Customs
or
Duties
for
Goods
Exported
or
Imported
;
That
the
City
shou'd
be
govern'd
by
Four
Consuls
,
who
shou'd
hold
their
Office
for
Life
,
and
be
elected
by
the
Citizens
;
only
't
was
agreed
,
That
one
Judge
or
Magistrate
might
be
sent
by
the
King
,
with
the
Title
of
Viguier
:
That
they
shou'd
not
be
oblig'd
to
receive
any
Garrison
,
or
be
commanded
by
any
Cittadel
but
that
of
Nôtre-Dame
de
la
Garde
:
Besides
several
other
Articles
of
the
same
Nature
,
which
remain'd
in
force
till
the
King's
Voyage
thither
;
when
he
took
the
occasion
of
a
Mutiny
that
was
rais'd
against
the
Duke
of
Guise
,
General
of
his
Galleys
,
to
abolish
all
the
Privileges
of
Marseilles
.
You
may
imagine
with
what
Consternation
and
inward
Rage
they
heard
of
their
Sovereign's
Approach
in
a
Hostile
manner
,
with
an
Army
at
his
Heels
;
and
afterwards
beheld
him
enter
the
Breach
as
into
a
conquer'd
City
:
However
they
set
a
good
Face
on
't
,
and
resolving
to
make
the
best
they
cou'd
of
a
desperate
Game
,
received
the
Destroyer
of
their
Liberty
with
all
imaginable
Marks
of
Love
and
Respect
.
In
the
mean
time
he
order'd
ten
thousand
Men
to
march
into
the
City
,
who
seiz'd
on
the
principal
Posts
,
and
were
lodg'd
in
the
Citizen's
Houses
;
and
afterwards
told
'em
,
that
he
had
observ'd
a
great
Number
of
pretty
Buildings
in
their
Territory
,
and
was
so
well
pleas'd
with
'em
,
that
he
was
resolv'd
to
build
one
more
.
This
Design
was
quickly
put
in
execution
;
for
the
Cittadel
was
erected
at
the
Mouth
of
the
Port
on
the
Right-side
,
and
Fort
S.
John
on
the
other
.
The
People
of
Marseilles
perceiving
that
Reason
was
too
feeble
a
Defence
against
Violence
,
very
tamely
submitted
to
the
new
Yoke
that
was
impos'd
upon
'em
:
And
their
forc'd
Complaisance
on
this
Occasion
,
was
made
the
Subject
of
a
Song
;
of
which
these
are
two
Stanza's
:
He
told'em
he
wou'd
build
a
Fort
,
And
swore
't
was
meerly
to
protect
'em
:
They
swore
again
they
thank'd
him
for
't
,
Because
they
durst
not
contradict
him
.
They
vow'd
they
were
his
loyal
Slaves
,
With
Lives
and
Fortunes
to
assist
him
;
Ready
to
serve
him
to
their
Graves
,
Because
unable
to
resist
him
.
Whatever
were
the
Sentiments
of
these
unfortunate
People
at
that
time
,
I
can
assure
you
that
most
of
the
old
Inhabitants
are
struck
with
so
much
Horrour
at
the
remembrance
of
that
.
Disaster
,
that
they
never
relate
the
Story
of
it
without
the
deepest
Marks
of
a
lively
Sorrow
.
And
they
still
retain
such
an
inconceivable
Abhorrence
against
the
French
,
that
they
scarce
ever
mention
'em
but
in
the
most
reproachful
Terms
that
Spite
or
Disdain
can
invent
.
They
look
upon
all
those
of
that
Nation
to
be
contemptible
Wretches
;
and
you
cannot
do
'em
a
more
provoking
Injury
than
to
call
'em
Frenchmen
.
I
cannot
give
you
a
more
lively
Representation
of
their
implacable
Hatred
against
our
Nation
,
than
by
relating
a
Story
which
I
heard
t'other
Day
:
When
the
King
concluded
the
last
Peace
with
Algiers
,
Commissioners
were
sent
on
board
all
the
Galleys
,
and
into
the
Baths
,
to
release
all
the
French
Slaves
they
cou'd
find
:
Some
of
these
Officers
perceiving
a
Man
,
whom
they
took
to
be
one
of
their
own
Nation
,
standing
in
a
careless
manner
,
without
showing
the
least
desire
to
be
Enroll'd
in
their
List
,
ask'd
him
,
Whether
he
was
a
Frenchman
:
No
,
answer'd
he
:
What
Countryman
art
thou
then
?
said
one
of
the
Commissioners
:
I
'm
a
Native
of
Marseilles
,
reply'd
the
Slave
:
Very
well
,
said
the
Commssioners
;
write
to
thy
King
of
Marseilles
,
that
he
may
set
thee
at
liberty
.
This
is
no
contriv'd
Story
,
but
so
certain
and
well-attested
a
Truth
,
that
I
know
some
Persons
who
were
present
when
the
Accident
happen'd
:
Nor
will
the
credibleness
of
this
Relation
be
question'd
by
any
who
have
had
occasion
to
converse
with
the
Inhabitants
of
this
City
,
or
to
be
Witnesses
of
their
extreme
Aversion
against
our
Countrymen
.
If
any
of
'em
gives
his
Daughter
in
Marriage
to
a
Frenchman
,
or
makes
a
Man
of
that
Nation
his
particular
Friend
,
he
exposes
himself
infallibly
to
the
Hatred
and
Scorn
of
all
his
Neighbours
:
And
if
a
Maid
shou'd
receive
a
Visit
from
a
Frenchman
,
she
might
for
ever
despair
of
finding
a
Husband
in
her
own
Country
.
To
conclude
;
The
People
of
Marseilles
are
in
all
respects
diametrically
opposite
to
us
;
only
I
must
except
from
this
general
Rule
,
the
Nobility
of
this
City
,
and
of
the
Country
in
which
't
is
seated
,
than
whom
there
are
none
of
their
Quality
in
France
that
can
lay
a
juster
Claim
to
Antiquity
of
Descent
,
and
Politeness
of
Manners
;
nor
any
that
are
better
affected
to
his
Majesty's
Service
.
The
Language
of
Provence
is
extremely
harsh
and
unpleasant
,
especially
in
Marseilles
,
and
the
Territory
that
belongs
to
it
,
where
the
Pronunciation
is
as
Guttural
as
in
Arabia
.
You
can
hardly
imagine
what
a
vast
Alteration
the
very
Sound
or
Accent
makes
in
a
Language
:
There
is
scarce
any
difference
at
all
between
the
Words
of
the
Dialects
that
are
us'd
in
Provence
and
Languedoc
,
and
nevertheless
this
is
as
amorous
and
agreeable
as
that
is
rough
and
uncouth
.
A
Stranger
is
never
more
sensible
of
the
Truth
of
this
Observation
,
than
at
his
first
Arrival
:
And
I
remember
that
the
very
Day
on
which
I
came
to
this
City
,
I
was
astonish'd
at
the
intolerable
Clownishness
with
which
a
handsome
young
Lady
pronounc'd
these
Words
,
to
diswade
one
of
her
Kinsmen
from
quarrelling
with
an
ordinary
Woman
:
Hai
,
mon
Cousin
,
said
she
,
laché
stata
quelle
femme
,
non
sabais
pas
qua
cau
à
la
teste
dau
Diable
.
This
made
me
tell
a
Gentleman
,
who
,
some
Days
after
,
ask'd
my
Opinion
of
the
Women
of
Marseilles
,
That
I
admir'd
their
Beauty
,
but
cou'd
wish
they
were
dumb
,
because
their
Speech
was
such
a
Bugbear
,
that
all
the
Charms
of
their
Countenance
cou'd
never
retain
a
French
Lover
.
If
you
were
acquainted
with
their
Humour
,
reply'd
he
,
you
wou'd
be
easily
convinc'd
,
that
the
very
Reason
you
alledge
wou'd
make
'em
in
love
with
their
Pronounciation
.
Marseilles
is
one
of
the
most
populous
Cities
in
France
;
but
the
third
part
of
those
who
reside
in
it
are
Strangers
.
The
old
part
of
the
Town
is
neither
very
large
nor
fair
:
The
Streets
are
narrow
,
crooked
,
and
uneven
,
by
reason
of
its
Situation
on
a
Hillock
;
but
't
is
at
least
double
of
what
it
was
thirty
Years
ago
.
The
Cours
,
or
Publick
Place
for
taking
the
Air
,
is
exactly
in
the
middle
of
a
long
and
very
streight
Street
,
that
reaches
from
the
Gate
of
Aix
to
that
of
Rome
,
and
separates
the
Old
from
the
New
Town
.
'T
is
1000
Paces
long
,
(
which
is
only
the
third
part
of
the
length
of
the
Street
)
and
in
all
other
respects
is
like
to
that
of
Aix
.
Four
Men
are
hir'd
by
the
City
,
to
Water
it
twice
a
Day
in
Summer
,
that
the
Dust
may
not
offend
the
Gentlemen
and
Citizens
,
who
flock
thither
every
Evening
in
such
Multitudes
,
that
a
Man
can
hardly
turn
himself
in
the
Croud
.
The
Houses
that
Border
it
are
built
pretty
regularly
,
but
are
not
so
fine
as
at
Aix
.
The
New
City
is
well
built
;
the
Streets
are
broad
,
streight
,
and
light
;
and
besides
,
't
is
considerable
for
the
Quality
of
its
Inhabitants
;
for
all
the
Officers
of
the
Galleys
,
the
Gentry
,
and
the
richer
part
of
the
Citizens
chuse
to
live
in
it
.
The
Extent
of
the
Walls
of
the
City
has
been
considerably
augmented
within
these
three
Years
;
for
besides
what
they
contain●d
before
,
there
is
a
large
Space
enclos'd
behind
the
Arsenal
for
a
●lace
of
Arms
,
which
(
when
finish'd
)
will
be
300
Paces
square
.
The
King
bestows
the
Ground
about
this
Place
on
those
who
will
build
Houses
on
it
,
provided
they
observe
the
Lines
mark'd
out
for
that
purpose
.
By
means
of
this
new
Addition
,
the
Abbey
of
S.
Victor
is
advanc'd
further
within
the
Town
,
being
a
Monastery
of
unreform'd
Benedictines
,
who
acknowledge
no
other
Superiour
but
the
Pope
,
in
Ecclesiastical
Cases
.
There
are
50000
Livres
a
Year
annex'd
to
this
House
,
for
the
Maintenance
of
eighteen
or
twenty
Monks
,
who
know
very
well
how
to
enjoy
all
the
comforts
of
so
plentiful
a
Revenue
.
The
Neighbourhood
of
these
Independent
Gentlemen
is
so
great
an
Eye-sore
to
the
Bishop
of
Marseilles
,
that
he
has
several
times
endeavour'd
to
make
'em
consent
to
the
Re-union
of
their
Monastery
with
the
Chapter
of
the
Cathedral
,
offering
'em
all
the
Privileges
of
the
Canons
,
with
the
Coadjutorship
of
the
Bishoprick
for
their
Prior
:
But
they
have
hitherto
kept
themselves
from
being
dazzl'd
with
the
seeming
Advantageousness
of
these
Proposals
.
The
present
Bishop
is
of
the
Family
of
Vintimille
,
descended
from
the
Counts
of
Marseilles
,
and
Nephew
of
Cardinal
Fourbain
Janson
,
his
Predecessor
in
the
Bishoprick
.
He
is
well-shap'd
,
handsome
,
not
above
thirty
Years
old
,
has
very
much
the
Air
of
the
Court
,
and
might
be
reckon'd
a
very
handsome
Man
,
if
his
Teeth
were
somewhat
smaller
,
and
more
evenly
set
.
He
is
a
Man
of
Sence
and
good
Breeding
,
of
a
pleasant
Wit
and
agreeable
Conversation
.
He
is
none
of
those
morose
Censurers
,
who
affect
a
certain
Surliness
and
ill
Humour
on
all
Occasions
.
His
Life
is
a
convincing
Argument
that
the
Pleasures
of
this
World
are
not
altogether
inconsistent
with
Devotion
.
He
plays
,
hears
Opera's
,
visits
Ladies
,
and
if
we
may
believe
the
common
Report
,
is
not
hated
by
'em
:
Yet
all
these
must
be
acknowledg'd
to
be
innocent
Liberties
,
since
he
always
preserves
a
due
regard
to
the
Laws
of
Decency
,
and
never
seems
to
be
guilty
of
any
Criminal
Design
.
I
know
a
Person
who
took
the
liberey
to
desire
the
use
of
his
Purple
Habit
and
Golden
Cross
,
for
a
Masque
:
The
Prelate
reply'd
,
That
these
Accoutrements
were
Sacred
;
but
very
civilly
accommodated
him
with
his
Cassock
,
short
Cloak
,
and
Perriwig
.
He
has
a
Niece
who
is
admitted
into
the
Nunnery
of
S.
Ursula
,
at
Marseilles
,
and
is
certainly
the
most
amiable
Girl
in
the
World
:
His
Affection
to
her
is
suitable
to
her
Merit
;
and
since
she
is
yet
too
young
to
bear
the
Austerities
of
a
Religious
Life
,
he
suffers
her
to
live
with
her
Father
,
the
Marquess
de
Fourbain
:
In
the
mean
time
he
visits
her
daily
,
and
instructs
her
in
all
the
Duties
of
her
Profession
.
Let
us
leave
'em
in
this
Holy
Occupation
,
and
take
a
View
of
the
Port
of
Marseilles
.
'T
is
inclos'd
within
the
City
,
which
secures
it
on
all
sides
from
the
Violence
of
the
Winds
;
and
its
Mouth
that
before
was
not
above
thirty
Paces
broad
,
is
streighten'd
by
two
Moles
,
leaving
a
very
narrow
Passage
for
the
Galleys
,
which
is
shut
up
with
a
Chain
every
Night
,
and
open'd
at
Seven
in
the
Morning
.
The
Harbour
by
the
largest
Computation
is
not
above
twelve
hundred
Paces
long
,
and
three
hundred
broad
;
and
besides
,
't
is
so
shallow
that
a
Man
of
War
cannot
enter
into
it
.
However
't
is
the
Station
of
all
the
King's
Galleys
,
of
which
there
are
forty
five
,
including
the
old
Patronne
,
which
at
present
serves
only
for
a
Show
,
and
for
an
Instance
of
the
late
prodigious
Increase
of
the
French
Grandeur
.
All
the
rest
of
the
Galleys
are
magnificently
Painted
and
Gilt
,
especially
the
new
Patronne
,
which
is
adorn'd
with
the
finest
Basso-Relievo's
that
are
made
in
this
Age
:
Besides
the
Flags
,
Banners
,
Streamers
,
and
Pendants
,
which
are
all
incredibly
Rich.
All
these
Ornaments
are
of
the
best
and
finest
red
Dama●k
,
with
Flower-de-Luces
,
Devices
,
and
Coats
of
Arms
embroider'd
with
Gold
:
The
principal
Flag
is
above
forty
Foot
long
,
and
ten
broad
;
and
all
the
rest
are
proportionably
large
:
The
Poop
,
where
the
General
has
his
Chamber
,
is
cover'd
with
the
same
Stuff
,
enrich'd
with
a
Fringe
of
Gold
and
Silk
.
All
the
other
Galleys
are
adorn'd
after
the
same
manner
,
only
instead
of
Gold
they
have
Yellowish
Silk
,
which
is
no
less
agreeable
to
the
Sight
,
especially
at
a
Distance
.
'T
is
impossible
to
behold
a
more
stately
Prospect
than
those
Galleys
when
they
appear
in
all
their
Magnificence
on
Sundays
and
Holydays
.
But
notwithstanding
all
these
external
Beauties
,
they
are
only
splendid
Prisons
to
the
most
miserable
Wretches
in
the
World
;
the
poor
Slaves
are
chain'd
together
,
eaten
up
with
Vermin
and
Scabs
,
beaten
from
Morning
to
Night
,
and
expos'd
to
all
the
Injuries
of
Cold.
Their
only
Habit
is
a
sort
of
wide
and
short
Jacket
,
without
Shooes
or
Stockings
,
without
a
Shirt
for
Change
,
without
Straw
to
lie
upon
,
without
any
other
Food
than
a
little
Bread
as
black
as
Soot
;
and
to
crown
their
Misery
,
without
the
least
hope
of
a
Deliverance
from
this
deplorable
Captivity
,
more
insupportable
than
that
of
the
Turks
.
There
comes
not
a
Person
of
Quality
to
Marseilles
whom
the
Intendant
does
not
regale
with
this
sight
on
board
the
new
Patronne
,
which
on
these
Occasions
is
embellish'd
with
all
its
Ornaments
.
The
Galley-Slaves
perform
their
Exercise
by
the
Sound
of
a
Fisquet
:
First
they
salute
the
Intendant
and
those
that
are
with
him
,
bellowing
out
thrice
Hou
,
hou
,
hou
,
as
if
they
were
Bears
in
a
Humane
Form
:
In
the
next
place
they
stretch
a
Rope
from
one
side
of
the
Galley
to
the
other
,
and
then
a
Sail-Yard
;
this
done
,
they
set
up
the
Tent
and
take
it
down
again
;
after
which
comes
the
most
necessary
part
of
their
Exercise
,
they
pull
off
their
Jackets
and
Shirts
,
shaking
off
the
Lice
into
the
Sea
,
and
sweeping
'em
away
with
their
Hands
:
Then
they
put
on
their
Clothes
,
and
the
Haut-boys
entertain
their
Company
;
who
at
their
Departure
receive
the
same
howling
Salutation
as
at
first
.
I
know
not
what
Pleasure
some
Persons
may
take
in
beholding
so
dismal
a
Spectacle
,
but
I
assure
you
it
had
a
quite
contrary
Effect
upon
me
:
I
was
altogether
unable
to
resist
the
Motions
of
a
most
tender
Compassion
,
mixt
with
Horrour
;
and
I
'm
persuaded
you
cou'd
not
preserve
the
usual
Tranquillity
of
your
Mind
at
the
reading
of
a
lively
Recital
of
the
Reflexions
I
made
on
this
Occasion
:
I
shall
therefore
leave
this
melancholy
Subject
,
and
proceed
to
entertain
you
with
something
more
diverting
.
These
Galleys
are
Mann'd
with
a
Regiment
,
compos'd
of
as
many
Companies
as
there
are
Vessels
,
each
Company
consisting
of
one
hundred
and
twenty
Men
,
who
exceed
all
the
Soldiers
in
the
King's
Service
,
in
Comeliness
of
Person
,
and
Largeness
of
Stature
;
for
the
Captains
never
grudge
to
advance
Ten
Louis
d'
Or
's
when
they
meet
with
a
Man
that
pleases
'em
:
And
besides
,
there
are
two
considerable
Encouragements
that
invite
Men
to
enter
into
this
Service
;
for
they
have
a
Sous
a
Day
more
than
in
the
Land-Army
;
and
the
Campaign
,
or
time
of
Action
,
never
lasts
above
two
Months
.
There
is
also
a
distinct
Company
,
call'd
the
Guards
of
the
Standard
,
who
are
cloath'd
in
Red
,
with
a
Gold
Galoon
,
and
train'd
up
to
be
Ensigns
of
the
Galleys
:
This
Company
consisted
formerly
of
fifty
Men
,
but
their
Number
was
doubl'd
this
Winter
,
and
't
was
order'd
that
no
Person
henceforth
shou'd
be
admitted
into
it
,
without
a
Brevet
.
The
Duke
of
Maine
is
at
present
General
of
the
Galleys
;
but
since
that
Office
is
purely
Honorary
,
all
the
Duties
of
it
are
executed
by
the
Lieutenant-General
,
the
Chevalier
de
Noailles
,
Brother
to
the
Duke
of
that
Name
.
This
Officer
is
much
envy'd
,
if
not
hated
,
by
some
old
Commanders
of
Squadrons
,
who
grumbl'd
extremely
to
see
him
advanc'd
before
'em
;
yet
since
he
is
a
very
brave
Man
,
and
possess'd
of
his
Master's
Favour
,
his
Court
is
always
pretty
numerous
.
Some
days
ago
he
visited
the
Arsenal
,
and
I
took
hold
of
that
Occasion
to
satisfie
my
Curiosity
,
which
I
cou'd
hardly
have
done
at
another
time
;
for
Monsieur
de
Montmor
,
the
Intendant
,
keeps
the
Keys
of
the
most
considerable
Places
,
and
never
parts
with
'em
out
of
his
Custody
,
but
when
there
is
something
to
be
done
that
requires
the
opening
of
the
Doors
.
Tho'
this
Arsenal
was
not
begun
to
be
built
till
about
Thirty
Years
ago
,
it
may
be
divided
into
the
Old
and
the
New
;
since
the
Additions
that
have
been
made
within
these
four
Years
,
make
it
at
least
double
of
what
it
was
before
.
The
Length
of
the
Old
Arsenal
is
equal
to
the
Breadth
of
the
Port
which
it
fronts
;
It
contains
particular
Magazines
for
all
the
Galleys
,
mark'd
with
their
respective
Names
,
with
large
Round
Doors
.
This
is
the
Lower
Story
on
one
Side
;
the
other
contains
Magazines
of
Cannon
,
Bombs
,
Carcasses
,
and
Gun-Powder
,
in
which
't
is
said
there
are
Two
thousand
Pieces
of
Cannon
,
and
Five
hundred
Bombs
.
The
Upper
Story
is
divided
into
Rooms
,
where
the
Flags
,
Pendants
,
Sails
,
and
the
rest
of
the
Tackling
are
kept
;
but
most
of
'em
are
empty
.
Here
is
also
a
fair
Hall
of
Arms
,
the
Walls
of
which
are
hung
with
Six
thousand
Musquets
,
and
as
many
Sabres
,
all
kept
in
very
good
Order
:
And
near
this
is
another
,
where
there
are
Five
hundred
Sutes
of
Armour
,
all
intire
and
bright
as
Silver
.
The
whole
Arsenal
is
one
single
Mass
of
Building
,
in
the
Middle
of
which
there
is
a
Dome
with
a
Clock
:
and
tho'
in
the
general
it
may
be
reckon'd
a
fine
Building
,
there
is
nothing
in
it
that
deserves
to
be
admir'd
.
The
New
Arsenal
begins
where
the
other
ends
,
and
stretches
along
the
Port
almost
to
the
Cittadel
:
'T
is
larger
than
the
Old
Arsenal
,
tho'
not
so
well
built
,
but
when
't
is
finish'd
't
will
exceed
the
other
,
not
only
in
Vastness
of
Extent
,
but
in
the
Beauty
and
Conveniency
of
a
fine
Canal
,
thro'
which
the
Galleys
may
come
to
the
Doors
of
their
respective
Magazines
.
'T
is
also
said
that
there
will
be
Stoves
built
there
for
the
Galley-Slaves
,
to
lessen
the
Miseries
they
usually
suffer
in
the
Winter
.
This
is
the
Place
where
the
Galleys
are
built
,
in
a
certain
dry
Ditch
or
Dock
,
into
which
they
can
let
as
much
Water
as
they
please
,
by
a
Sluce
;
so
that
the
Galley
is
immediately
set
a-float
,
without
the
least
Trouble
in
Lanching
it
.
The
Place
of
Arms
,
of
which
I
took
notice
before
,
will
be
behind
the
Arsenal
.
There
is
not
one
fine
Church
in
Marseilles
,
but
there
are
some
very
ancient
.
That
of
Nôtre-Dame
des
Accoules
was
formerly
consecrated
to
Pallas
,
that
of
S.
Saviour
to
Apollo
,
and
the
Cathedral
or
Church
de
la
Major
,
is
said
to
have
been
a
Temple
of
Diana
.
In
the
last
the
Body
of
S.
Lazarus
,
the
first
Bishop
of
this
City
,
is
kept
in
a
Silver
Shrine
;
and
there
are
several
other
Holy
Rarities
both
in
this
and
S.
Victor's
Church
;
where
,
besides
the
Head
of
that
Saint
,
they
preserve
the
True
Cross
of
S.
Andrew
,
which
is
seven
Foot
long
,
and
consists
of
two
Joists
join'd
cross-ways
,
after
the
Figure
of
an
X.
Here
is
also
a
Grotto
,
where
Mary
Magdalen
did
Penance
for
some
time
.
The
whole
City
is
full
of
such
Places
,
but
none
of
'em
is
so
much
respected
as
S.
Baume
,
where
't
is
said
she
liv'd
33
Years
.
Notwithstanding
all
the
Difficulties
and
discouraging
Rubbs
I
met
with
in
my
Passage
thro'
the
Mountains
,
my
Curiosity
was
still
strong
enough
to
oblige
me
to
undertake
a
Pilgrimage
to
that
Place
;
and
in
my
next
you
may
expect
an
Account
of
the
Observations
I
made
there
.
I
am
,
SIR
,
Your
&c.
Marseilles
,
Feb.
1690.
LETTER
VIII
.
SIR
,
S.
Baume
is
a
Cave
in
the
midst
of
a
Rock
,
which
is
so
extremely
high
and
steep
,
that
by
taking
a
distant
View
of
this
Place
,
you
wou'd
think
it
impossible
to
ascend
to
it
.
And
certainly
the
Ascent
was
very
difficult
at
first
,
since
at
present
,
tho'
there
are
Steps
very
industriously
cut
out
of
the
Rock
,
it
requires
a
Man's
whole
Skill
and
Agility
to
mount
these
artificial
Stairs
,
holding
his
Horse
by
the
Bri●le
;
and
the
Pleasure
of
arriving
at
the
Top
of
'em
is
very
considerably
increas'd
by
the
need
one
has
of
Rest
.
This
Rock
is
the
Top
of
the
highest
Mountain
of
Provence
,
between
Marseilles
and
Toulon
;
and
you
must
ascend
continually
for
the
space
of
two
Hours
,
before
you
can
arrive
at
the
Rock
:
The
Cave
is
possess'd
by
certain
Jacobin
Friars
,
sent
thither
by
the
Prior
of
S.
Maximin
,
who
allows
each
of
'em
a
Thousand
Livres
a
Year
for
their
Maintenance
,
without
reckoning
their
Masses
:
And
I
'm
confident
they
cannot
spare
much
out
of
so
considerable
a
Revenue
,
since
they
are
oblig'd
to
be
at
a
vast
and
almost
daily
Charge
for
the
Carriage
of
such
things
as
are
necessary
for
their
Subsistence
,
the
Situation
of
the
Place
not
permitting
'em
to
lay
up
great
store
of
Provisions
.
On
the
right
side
of
the
Entrance
into
the
Cave
,
they
have
taken
Advantage
of
a
piece
of
the
Rock
that
jutts
out
beyond
the
rest
of
it
,
to
contrive
a
little
Convent
,
consisting
of
seventeen
Cells
,
and
three
double
Chambers
,
which
are
appointed
for
the
King
,
the
Bishop
,
and
the
Governour
of
the
Province
,
or
at
least
are
call'd
by
their
Names
.
On
the
other
side
of
the
Entry
there
is
an
Inn
,
where
we
paid
dear
for
what
we
eat
,
besides
the
Chaplets
and
Medals
with
which
my
Companions
loaded
themselves
.
'T
is
Morally
impossible
that
ever
any
Person
cou'd
have
liv'd
in
this
Cave
as
many
Days
as
Mary
Magdalen
,
according
to
the
Tradition
,
liv'd
Years
in
it
,
by
reason
of
the
extreme
Coldness
and
Moistness
of
the
place
,
occasion'd
by
the
continual
dropping
of
Water
from
the
impending
Rock
,
which
falls
in
such
abundance
,
that
it
fills
a
kind
of
Well
or
Cistern
below
.
The
Monks
pretend
that
this
perpetual
dropping
is
a
miraculous
Emblem
of
the
Tears
which
that
Saint
shed
in
this
place
;
and
that
't
is
naturally
impossible
for
Water
to
spring
out
of
so
high
a
Rock
.
This
is
a
Philosophical
Question
,
which
you
may
determine
at
your
leisure
;
for
I
'm
resolv'd
to
say
nothing
on
this
Subject
that
may
prepossess
your
Judgment
.
In
the
bottom
of
the
Cave
there
is
a
little
Rock
,
about
three
Foot
high
,
which
I
vehemently
suspect
to
be
Artificial
;
for
't
is
exactly
contriv'd
like
a
Bed
,
with
the
resemblance
of
a
Bolster
,
as
if
it
had
been
made
on
purpose
for
that
use
.
'T
is
inclos'd
with
a
great
Iron
Grate
,
which
the
Monks
open
,
that
the
Spectators
may
have
a
full
View
of
the
Saint's
Image
of
Marble
,
painted
and
gilt
:
She
is
laid
at
her
full
length
,
her
Head
leaning
on
her
Right-hand
,
and
in
her
other
holding
the
Pix
,
in
which
she
kept
consecrated
Wafers
or
Hosts
.
This
Image
is
much
bigger
than
the
Life
,
being
seven
Foot
long
;
and
yet
they
pretend
that
't
is
an
exact
imitation
both
of
her
Face
and
Stature
.
'T
is
strange
that
the
Scripture
shou'd
neither
mention
her
unusual
Bigness
,
her
Quality
,
(
for
they
say
she
was
a
Princess
)
nor
her
Voyage
:
And
't
is
still
more
surprizing
,
that
a
Woman
of
her
Stature
cou'd
charm
such
a
Croud
of
Lovers
:
I
know
not
whether
the
Men
of
her
Age
had
a
particular
Inclination
to
Court
Giantesses
;
but
I
question
very
much
whether
such
a
Bouncing
Girl
wou'd
find
so
many
Admirers
among
us
.
After
a
Traveller
has
satisfy'd
his
Curiosity
with
a
View
of
all
these
Rarities
,
it
is
the
usual
Custom
to
go
up
to
the
Top
of
the
Rock
,
call'd
S.
Pilon
,
whither
that
Saint
was
carried
seven
times
a
Day
by
the
Angels
,
that
she
might
have
the
Convenience
of
saying
her
Prayers
at
that
Place
.
I
will
not
detain
you
with
the
particular
Relation
of
the
rest
of
her
Adventures
:
But
since
,
perhaps
,
you
may
not
be
unwilling
to
know
how
,
and
by
what
odd
Accident
she
came
to
this
Place
,
I
shall
give
you
a
short
Account
of
that
part
of
her
History
.
After
our
Saviour's
Ascension
,
there
arose
a
violent
Persecution
against
his
Disciples
,
as
you
may
see
at
length
in
the
Acts
of
the
Apostles
:
Among
the
rest
,
the
Family
of
S.
Lazarus
was
involv'd
in
the
common
Calamity
;
but
the
Jews
,
unwilling
to
make
Persons
of
Quality
suffer
the
utmost
Severities
that
were
usually
inflicted
on
others
,
instead
of
putting
'em
to
Death
,
plac'd
Lazarus
and
his
Sister
,
S.
Maximin
,
and
some
others
,
whose
Names
I
do
not
remember
,
in
a
Bark
,
without
Oars
,
Rudder
,
or
Sails
,
abandoning
'em
to
the
Mercy
of
the
Winds
,
which
by
the
Providence
of
God
,
brought
'em
into
the
Port
of
Marseilles
,
where
they
spent
several
Years
in
Preaching
the
Gospel
:
Their
Memory
is
preserv'd
to
this
Day
,
by
a
great
number
of
Chapels
erected
in
the
places
where
't
is
pretended
the
He
and
She
Saints
usually
pronounc'd
their
Sermons
;
which
had
such
a
prevailing
Influence
on
their
Hearers
,
that
the
whole
City
was
converted
.
After
such
happy
Success
,
S.
Lazarus
was
made
Bishop
,
and
Mary
Magdalen
went
to
do
Penance
in
the
horrid
Cave
of
S.
Baume
.
Her
Head
,
and
one
of
her
Arms
are
kept
at
S.
Maximin
,
amongst
a
great
number
of
fine
Relicks
:
Her
Head
is
enchas'd
in
a
kind
of
Bust
of
Gold
,
ending
a
little
below
her
Shoulders
,
and
enrich'd
with
a
great
number
of
very
fine
Jewels
,
among
which
there
is
an
admirable
Ruby
,
equalling
a
Man's
Thumb
both
in
Length
and
Breadth
:
This
Bust
was
presented
by
Charles
II.
King
of
Switzerland
,
Count
of
Provence
.
The
whole
Face
of
this
Head
is
expos'd
to
view
,
contrary
to
the
Custom
of
other
Places
,
where
the
Shrine
is
only
show'd
,
and
the
Spectator
must
imploy
his
Faith
,
if
it
be
strong
enough
,
to
discover
the
Relicks
:
But
here
one
may
distinctly
perceive
a
Death's-Head
of
so
vast
a
size
,
that
if
it
be
Mary
Magdalen's
,
we
cannot
justly
refuse
our
Assent
to
the
Tradition
,
that
assures
us
of
the
unusual
Bulkiness
of
the
rest
of
her
Body
.
Our
Guide
made
us
observe
a
little
dry
Scurf
about
the
middle
of
her
Forehead
,
somewhat
towards
her
Left
Eye
,
and
told
us
,
that
this
was
the
place
where
our
Saviour
put
his
Finger
,
when
,
after
his
Resurrection
,
he
said
to
her
,
[
](A36827-e16450-b)*
*
John
20.
17.
Touch
me
not
,
&c.
But
since
I
had
never
observ'd
in
the
Scripture
,
that
Christ
put
his
Finger
on
her
Forehead
,
when
he
spake
these
Words
,
I
ask'd
a
Father
where
I
might
find
that
Passage
:
He
told
me
that
it
was
a
Holy
Tradition
of
the
Church
,
which
I
was
oblig'd
to
believe
,
under
pain
of
Heresie
;
adding
,
upon
the
Authority
of
the
same
Tradition
,
That
during
the
Forty
Days
which
Christ
spent
with
his
Disciples
after
his
Resurrection
[
](A36827-e16470-b)†
†
This
is
a
direct
Contradiction
to
the
last
Chapter
of
S.
Matthew's
Gospel
,
where
't
is
said
of
the
two
Maries
,
that
as
they
were
going
from
the
Sepulchre
,
Jesus
met
'em
,
and
that
they
came
and
held
him
by
the
Feet
,
and
worshipped
him
.
,
he
never
touch'd
any
thing
but
this
part
of
Mary
Magdalen's
Forehead
,
and
S.
Thomas's
Hand
,
both
which
remain
entire
to
this
Day
.
This
Head
is
preserv'd
in
a
Subterraneous
Cave
,
clos'd
with
four
Iron
Doors
;
and
we
were
told
,
that
the
Bodies
of
S.
Magdalen
,
S.
Maximin
,
S.
Marcellus
,
and
S.
Sidonius
,
were
put
into
four
Marble
Sepulchres
,
that
are
still
to
be
seen
in
this
Cave
,
which
was
contriv'd
on
purpose
for
their
Burying-place
;
but
that
these
Holy
Bodies
were
afterwards
more
honourably
lodg'd
.
In
the
same
Cave
,
or
Subterraneous
Chapel
,
they
shew
also
a
little
Glass
Vial
,
containing
certain
small
Flints
that
were
moistened
with
the
Blood
that
our
Saviour
shed
upon
the
Cross
;
endeavouring
to
make
the
Spectatours
believe
that
the
Blood
is
still
visible
;
but
whatever
care
I
took
to
consider
these
Flints
with
all
imaginable
Attention
,
I
cou'd
not
perceive
the
least
Tincture
of
Blood
.
Coming
up
from
hence
,
we
were
desir'd
to
take
Notice
of
a
Shrine
of
Porphyrie
,
which
contains
the
rest
of
that
Saint's
Bones
,
except
one
of
her
Arms
,
which
is
enchas'd
in
Silver
,
and
suitable
in
bigness
to
the
Head
:
Her
Flaxen
Hair
is
in
another
Reliquary
:
And
there
are
in
the
same
place
many
other
Rarities
of
this
Nature
,
which
't
wou'd
be
too
tedious
to
enumerate
.
The
Church
that
belongs
to
this
Convent
,
is
large
,
well
lighted
,
and
very
much
esteem'd
for
its
Architecture
.
The
Inside
is
adorn'd
with
several
fine
Marble
Columns
,
especially
the
great
Altar
,
which
was
built
by
Lewis
XIII
.
in
performance
of
a
Vow
;
and
is
reckon'd
one
of
the
largest
,
and
most
magnificent
Altars
in
France
.
All
the
rest
of
the
Church
is
cover'd
with
Paintings
,
by
the
most
celebrated
Hands
,
which
are
also
the
Effects
of
Vows
:
And
every
Altar
is
enrich'd
with
all
sorts
of
Vessels
,
Candlesticks
,
Lamps
,
and
other
Ornaments
of
Gold
and
Silver
,
in
great
abundance
.
This
Church
was
built
by
Charles
,
Duke
of
Anjou
,
King
of
Sicily
,
who
endow'd
it
with
a
very
plentiful
Revenue
;
and
the
Foundation
being
since
encreas'd
by
the
Piety
of
our
Kings
,
there
is
a
very
honourable
Maintenance
for
Fifty
Monks
who
live
here
.
I
'm
afraid
the
Holiness
of
the
Place
will
scarce
make
amends
for
my
detaining
you
so
long
at
S.
Baume
;
and
therefore
since
a
change
of
Entertainment
is
always
very
acceptable
to
a
cloy'd
Appetite
,
I
hope
you
will
have
the
less
Reluctancy
to
accompany
me
in
a
little
Journey
to
Arles
and
Nismes
,
where
you
might
divert
your self
with
a
View
of
those
Admirable
Antiquities
,
and
Illustrious
Monuments
of
the
Roman
Grandeur
that
are
to
be
seen
in
those
places
.
Arles
is
a
City
of
Provence
,
and
was
formerly
the
Metropolis
of
a
Kingdom
of
the
same
Name
.
'T
was
adorn'd
by
its
old
Masters
,
the
Romans
,
with
Temples
,
Palaces
,
Amphitheatres
,
and
other
magnificent
Works
,
most
of
which
were
ruin'd
in
the
succeeding
Revolutions
.
The
Amphitheatre
,
commonly
call'd
les
Arrenes
,
has
escap'd
the
Fate
of
the
rest
,
tho'
not
so
well
as
that
of
Nîmes
;
for
't
is
impossible
to
walk
on
the
Top
from
one
end
to
the
other
;
so
that
I
cou'd
not
measure
its
Length
and
Breadth
.
The
Town-House
is
very
remarkable
,
both
for
its
Structure
and
Antiquities
:
Among
the
rest
there
is
a
Marble
Statue
of
Diana
,
which
formerly
pronounc'd
Oracles
to
those
who
came
to
consult
her
in
her
Temple
,
which
was
seated
in
the
same
place
where
the
Town-House
stands
at
present
,
as
appears
by
the
Foundations
that
are
under
the
Clock-Tower
.
All
the
Walls
of
the
City
are
full
of
pieces
of
Statues
,
Cornices
,
and
Columns
,
which
give
the
Spectatour
a
great
Idea
of
the
Number
and
Beauty
of
its
Ancient
Ornaments
.
Among
its
finest
Antiquities
,
I
may
justly
reckon
that
admirable
Obelisk
which
some
Years
ago
was
found
entire
in
the
Ground
,
and
was
since
erected
to
the
Glory
of
Lewis
the
Great
,
by
the
Care
and
Contrivance
of
the
Gentlemen
of
the
Royal
Academy
,
with
very
beautiful
Inscriptions
on
the
Pedestal
,
both
in
Latine
and
French
;
and
a
Golden
Sun
on
the
Top
,
which
you
know
is
the
King's
Emblem
,
and
the
Soul
of
his
Device
.
This
Obelisk
wants
the
usual
Ornament
of
Monuments
of
that
Nature
,
and
,
at
least
in
this
respect
may
be
justly
esteem'd
a
Rarity
.
But
tho'
there
are
no
Hieroglyphical
Figures
upon
it
,
to
determine
its
Age
,
and
discover
its
first
Contrivers
,
't
is
generally
reputed
a
Work
of
the
Egyptians
.
I
know
not
whether
the
same
Opinion
will
prevail
in
After-Ages
;
for
perhaps
Posterity
viewing
the
Inscriptions
that
have
been
lately
added
to
it
,
will
do
our
Age
the
Honour
to
believe
that
't
was
capable
of
Undertaking
and
Finishing
such
Works
;
if
they
be
not
kept
from
falling
into
that
Errour
,
by
the
Consideration
of
the
Granite
of
which
't
is
built
.
This
City
is
the
Seat
of
an
Archbishop
,
and
of
an
Academy
of
Ingenious
Persons
,
under
the
Name
of
the
Royal
Academy
of
Arles
;
to
whom
the
Publick
must
own
it self
oblig'd
for
many
Curious
and
Learned
Treatises
.
'T
is
situated
on
the
Rhône
,
at
the
distance
of
seven
Leagues
from
its
Mouth
:
But
no
Ship
,
nor
great
Bark
,
can
come
up
to
the
City
,
by
reason
of
the
Banks
of
Sand
with
which
that
River
is
pester'd
.
Having
satisfy'd
my
Curiosity
at
Arles
,
I
resolv'd
to
visit
Nismes
,
one
of
the
most
remarkable
Cities
in
Languedoc
,
for
its
Trade
,
Antiquity
,
and
I
may
also
add
,
for
its
Largeness
,
tho'
't
is
at
present
much
less
considerable
in
that
respect
than
when
(
if
we
may
give
credit
to
History
)
't
was
founded
by
Marius
,
who
chose
this
for
the
place
of
his
Residence
,
and
built
it
in
imitation
of
Rome
,
observing
an
exact
Equality
in
the
Dimensions
of
the
New
City
,
as
well
as
in
its
Publick
Places
and
Buildings
.
But
Time
,
that
impartial
Destroyer
of
all
things
,
has
made
so
many
Alterations
in
both
these
Illustrious
Cities
,
that
at
present
there
is
not
the
least
Resemblance
between
'em
.
The
principal
Monument
of
Antiquity
at
Nismes
,
is
its
Amphitheatre
,
the
largest
and
most
entire
Structure
of
that
Nature
that
is
at
present
to
be
seen
in
any
part
of
the
World
.
I
cannot
forbear
complaining
that
Private
Persons
are
suffer'd
to
fill
it
with
Houses
,
which
quite
take
away
the
Prospect
of
it
,
and
consequently
all
its
Beauty
;
whereas
if
it
were
still
empty
,
as
when
't
was
possess'd
by
the
Romans
,
all
the
Curious
part
of
the
World
wou'd
come
to
admire
the
Magnificence
of
its
Structure
.
'T
is
of
a
perfectly
round
or
circular
Figure
,
having
only
one
Door
,
with
a
Tower
on
each
side
of
it
:
It
contains
150
Paces
in
Diameter
,
and
its
Circumference
amounts
to
460.
The
Inside
of
the
Circle
is
Pyramidal
,
in
form
of
Stairs
,
where
the
People
sate
to
behold
the
Fights
of
Beasts
,
and
other
Publick
Sights
;
and
below
there
are
very
fair
vaulted
Galleries
,
where
the
Spectatours
might
walk
till
the
Shows
began
.
This
lower
Story
is
adorn'd
with
fine
Columns
,
with
their
Cornices
;
and
from
place
to
place
there
are
Heads
of
Animals
,
Eagles
and
Fasces
in
Relief
.
The
whole
Amphitheatre
is
built
of
large
Free-Stones
,
some
of
which
are
three
Foot
square
on
all
sides
;
and
particularly
those
on
the
Top
of
the
Building
.
We
went
out
at
the
Gate
la
Bouquerie
,
to
see
the
famous
Temple
of
Diana
,
where
that
Goddess
pronounc'd
her
Oracles
.
'T
is
an
exact
Square
,
the
length
of
each
side
amounting
to
Seventy
Paces
:
The
Door
is
round
,
ten
Foot
broad
,
and
fifteen
high
.
This
is
a
very
Massive
Edifice
,
according
to
the
ancient
manner
of
Building
,
and
consists
of
Stones
as
large
as
those
of
the
Amphitheatre
;
so
that
it
might
serve
for
a
Fort
in
Case
of
Necessity
,
and
even
might
hold
out
for
some
time
against
Cannon
.
Not
far
from
thence
there
is
another
no
less
remarkable
Structure
,
call'd
,
la
Tour
Magne
,
which
we
may
reasonably
conclude
to
have
been
design'd
for
a
Mausolaeum
,
and
built
in
imitation
,
tho'
not
after
the
Model
,
of
the
Egyptian
Monuments
.
'T
is
a
high
and
solid
Pyramidal
Tower
,
without
any
Vault
or
Concavity
;
and
there
are
Steps
made
round
it
,
by
which
one
may
ascend
to
the
Top
,
tho'
not
without
Danger
;
for
they
are
extremely
worn
and
broken
in
several
places
;
so
that
I
chose
rather
to
content
my self
with
viewing
it
from
below
,
than
to
run
the
hazard
of
going
up
.
From
thence
I
return'd
to
the
City
,
and
went
to
see
an
old
Palace
,
call'd
,
The
Square
House
,
which
at
present
is
the
Dwelling-House
of
a
Private
Person
.
'T
is
much
longer
than
broad
,
built
with
great
Free-Stones
,
and
adorn'd
on
the
Outside
with
several
fine
Columns
,
with
their
Bases
and
Cornices
.
Some
think
this
House
was
formerly
the
Praetorium
,
or
Hall
of
Judgment
;
but
others
are
of
opinion
that
't
was
the
Capitol
of
Nismes
.
This
City
is
full
of
People
of
Quality
and
Breeding
;
and
tho'
there
is
so
small
a
distance
between
it
and
Provence
,
I
can
assure
you
,
that
their
Customs
are
not
only
different
but
opposite
;
and
instead
of
that
Scorn
and
Contempt
with
which
Frenchmen
are
treated
at
Marseilles
,
here
they
are
entertain'd
with
all
imaginable
Civility
,
and
with
the
highest
Marks
of
Love
and
Friendship
.
You
wou'd
hardly
give
Credit
to
some
Instances
of
this
Nature
which
I
cou'd
relate
to
you
:
The
Ladies
take
pleasure
to
accost
a
Stranger
whom
they
find
walking
alone
;
Their
Conversation
is
accompany'd
with
all
the
Sprightliness
and
innocent
Freedom
that
can
be
desir'd
.
For
tho'
they
have
as
tender
a
Regard
to
their
Honour
as
any
of
their
Sex
in
France
;
their
Vertue
is
not
barbarous
and
inhumane
;
and
provided
a
Man
have
an
Inclination
to
Love
,
and
be
Master
of
a
competent
Stock
of
Merit
,
join'd
with
some
external
Accomplishments
,
he
may
venture
to
ingage
with
those
favourable
Enemies
with
almost
certain
Hopes
of
Success
.
I
have
heard
a
hundred
Relations
of
such
amorous
Adventures
of
Strangers
,
who
taking
Fire
at
first
sight
,
were
afterwards
bless'd
with
the
Possession
of
the
Object
of
their
Flames
;
and
preserving
their
Love
after
Marriage
,
had
never
any
Reason
to
repent
of
the
Suddenness
of
their
Choice
.
For
if
I
might
depend
upon
the
Character
I
have
receiv'd
of
the
Ladies
of
Languedoc
,
and
't
is
almost
impossible
for
one
who
has
convers'd
with
'em
to
doubt
of
the
Truth
of
it
;
a
Man
cannot
trust
his
Heart
in
better
Hands
,
nor
make
a
more
advantageous
Resignation
of
his
Liberty
.
They
are
naturally
Loving
,
Complaisant
,
and
Constant
even
to
Death
;
and
besides
they
are
generally
of
a
very
pleasant
Humour
,
and
all
their
Actions
are
accompany'd
with
a
certain
Amorous
Air
that
seems
always
to
demand
a
Heart
,
and
puts
it
out
of
the
Owner's
Power
to
refuse
it
.
'T
is
not
without
an
extreme
Displeasure
that
I
must
content
my self
with
relating
what
I
heard
on
this
Occasion
,
and
that
I
cannot
add
my
own
Experience
to
the
Testimony
of
others
;
but
I
cannot
pretend
to
the
Happiness
of
those
who
find
Fortune
ready
to
compliment
'em
with
a
Mistress
at
their
first
Arrival
:
and
since
the
main
Design
of
my
Travels
wou'd
not
suffer
me
to
stay
long
in
this
Place
,
I
saw
my self
depriv'd
of
a
Pleasure
of
which
I
had
conceiv'd
so
agreeable
an
Idea
,
and
left
with
an
extreme
Reluctancy
,
that
lovely
Country
,
where
the
Customs
and
Manner
of
Living
are
so
suitable
to
my
Genius
and
Inclinations
.
But
at
my
Return
to
this
Place
I
was
somewhat
comforted
by
a
late
Instance
of
the
Misfortunes
of
Love
,
and
my
Grief
was
in
some
measure
abated
,
when
I
reflected
on
all
the
Troubles
and
Disasters
that
usually
attend
a
Passion
from
which
we
expect
nothing
but
the
Enjoyment
of
undisturb'd
Delight
and
Satisfaction
.
Two
Young
Pilgrims
betwixt
the
Age
of
Twenty
and
Twenty
two
Years
,
pass'd
thro'
this
City
about
three
Months
ago
,
and
like
the
rest
of
those
miserable
Wanderers
,
who
rove
about
the
World
under
the
Protection
of
a
Pilgrim's
Staff
,
were
constrain'd
to
take
up
their
Lodging
at
the
Hospital
de
la
Charité
,
where
one
of
'em
,
not
longer
able
to
endure
the
Fatigues
,
Cold
,
Hunger
,
and
perpetual
Want
of
every
thing
that
is
necessary
for
Life
,
sunk
at
last
under
such
an
insupportable
Load
of
Misery
,
and
fell
into
a
Fever
,
accompany'd
with
so
great
a
Weakness
,
that
the
Surgeons
began
to
despair
of
his
Recovery
.
His
Companion
seeing
him
in
this
Condition
,
was
so
overwhelm'd
with
Sorrow
,
that
the
very
Servants
of
the
Hospital
,
who
were
wont
to
be
unconcern'd
Spectators
of
such
Accidents
,
were
touch'd
with
Compassion
:
He
never
stirr'd
from
his
sick
Friend's
Bed-side
,
gave
him
his
Broth
,
serv'd
him
with
a
wonderful
Zeal
and
Assiduity
,
and
wou'd
not
suffer
any
other
to
come
near
him
.
The
sick
Person
,
on
the
other
side
,
was
not
pleas'd
with
any
thing
but
what
came
from
the
Hands
of
his
belov'd
Companion
,
and
receiv'd
his
Services
with
all
the
Marks
of
Gratitude
,
and
of
a
most
tender
Affection
.
In
the
mean
time
the
Sickness
of
the
one
,
and
the
Grief
of
the
other
were
daily
and
equally
augmented
:
The
disconsolate
Mourner
embrac'd
his
dying
Friend
every
Moment
,
and
bath'd
his
Face
with
Tears
.
At
last
,
on
the
Ninth
Day
,
the
Feaver
was
succeeded
by
a
violent
Crisis
,
and
the
sick
Pilgrim
,
after
some
Convulsions
,
fell
into
a
Swoon
,
and
was
thought
to
be
dead
.
His
Friend
then
losing
all
Patience
,
gave
himself
up
entirely
to
the
Excess
of
his
Grief
,
and
throwing
himself
upon
the
dear
Body
,
with
the
Transports
of
a
Despair
,
that
melted
the
Hearts
of
all
the
Assistants
,
burst
forth
into
Lamentations
,
which
discover'd
his
secret
,
and
made
'em
know
that
the
Person
whom
they
hitherto
treated
as
a
poor
Pilgrim
,
was
a
young
Lady
:
Alas
!
my
dear
N
...
cry'd
he
,
Thou
art
no
more
!
Thy
fair
Eyes
are
shut
for
ever
!
'T
is
done
—
Thou
hast
lost
thy
dear
Life
,
and
't
is
I
who
have
robb'd
thee
of
it
.
Ah!
my
Love
!
my
Soul
!
continu'd
he
,
thou
hast
paid
dear
for
thy
Love
to
me
,
who
am
the
wretched
occasion
of
thy
Death
in
thy
most
blooming
Age.
Ah!
fatal
Love
!
cruel
Parents
!
unfortunate
,
and
too-loving
Daughter
!
These
,
and
such-like
Exclamations
he
utter'd
with
unconceivable
Despair
,
for
the
space
of
a
quarter
of
an
Hour
;
after
which
,
perceiving
that
she
show'd
some
Signs
of
Life
,
he
sent
immediately
for
a
Physician
,
and
throwing
himself
at
his
Feet
,
Sir
,
said
he
,
I
conjure
you
by
all
that
is
dear
to
you
in
the
World
,
refuse
not
your
Assistance
to
this
young
Maid
:
She
is
a
Person
of
Quality
,
and
deserves
your
utmost
Care
for
her
Preservation
:
Leave
no
Means
unattempted
;
spare
no
Cost
,
Sir
,
I
beseech
you
,
and
be
confident
that
you
shall
not
lose
your
Labour
;
you
shall
have
whatever
you
please
to
demand
;
take
my
promise
,
and
you
shall
find
me
to
be
a
Man
of
Honour
.
The
Physician
being
mov'd
with
Compassion
,
assur'd
him
that
the
sick
Person
shou'd
not
Perish
by
his
Neglect
:
And
after
he
had
administer'd
such
Remedies
as
were
most
necessary
in
her
present
Condition
,
he
begg'd
her
Lover
to
inform
him
who
they
were
,
and
by
what
Accident
they
fell
into
such
deplorable
Circumstances
.
The
young
Man
told
him
,
that
he
was
a
Native
of
Lorrain
,
and
born
a
Gentleman
,
tho'
with
a
very
small
Fortune
;
That
he
fell
in
Love
with
this
young
Lady
,
who
was
of
a
very
Rich
and
Honourable
Family
;
That
She
requited
his
Love
with
a
Reciprocal
Affection
,
notwithstanding
the
Opposition
made
by
her
Father
,
and
all
the
rest
of
her
Family
,
who
designing
to
settle
her
Advantageously
in
the
World
,
wou'd
never
be
persuaded
to
accept
of
so
poor
a
Son-in-Law
;
That
,
nevertheless
,
they
kept
a
Correspendence
for
two
Years
,
giving
and
receiving
all
the
Marks
of
an
unexpressible
Tenderness
,
and
confirming
by
mutual
and
repeated
Oaths
,
their
resolution
to
die
,
rather
than
to
be
guilty
of
the
least
Infidelity
;
That
her
Father
having
provided
a
considerable
Match
for
her
,
wou'd
have
forc'd
her
to
comply
with
his
Inclinations
;
That
She
rejected
the
Proposal
with
great
Constancy
,
and
was
very
rigorously
treated
by
her
Father
on
that
Occasion
;
and
,
That
when
she
cou'd
not
resist
any
longer
,
they
resolv'd
to
make
their
Escape
,
chusing
rather
to
live
poorly
and
miserably
together
,
than
to
purchase
the
Enjoyment
of
a
plentiful
Fortune
at
the
rate
of
being
for
ever
separated
.
In
pursuance
of
that
Design
,
as
he
inform'd
the
Physician
,
he
seiz'd
on
one
of
her
Father's
Horses
,
and
after
she
had
disguis'd
her self
in
a
Man's
Habit
,
he
brought
her
to
Paris
,
where
their
Money
failing
,
they
were
forc'd
to
sell
their
Horse
;
and
that
little
Stock
being
also
exhausted
,
they
were
reduc'd
to
the
miserable
Condition
in
which
he
found
'em
:
‛
Yet
,
added
he
,
we
were
firmly
resolv'd
to
spend
the
Remainder
of
our
Lives
like
wretched
Vagabonds
,
rather
than
to
submit
to
the
Tyranny
of
our
Relations
,
if
this
fatal
Sickness
had
not
made
me
alter
my
Resolution
.
I
cannot
longer
bear
,
continu'd
he
,
the
sight
of
so
dismal
an
Object
:
My
Constancy
is
overcome
by
her
Sufferings
;
and
if
God
wou'd
vouchsafe
to
restore
her
Health
,
I
design
to
carry
her
back
to
her
Father
;
tho'
considering
the
extreme
Violence
of
his
Humour
,
I
cannot
expect
a
milder
Punishment
than
Death
,
for
the
Injury
he
pretends
I
have
done
him
.
The
Physician
,
who
is
a
very
Humane
Person
,
was
struck
with
Compassion
at
the
Recital
of
their
Misfortunes
,
and
promis'd
to
assist
'em
not
only
as
a
Physician
,
but
as
a
Friend
.
Immediately
he
order'd
the
young
Lady
to
be
taken
out
of
the
nasty
Couch
where
she
lay
,
and
to
be
carry'd
to
a
convenient
Chamber
;
where
she
was
laid
in
a
good
Bed
,
and
carefully
attended
till
her
Recovery
,
which
happen'd
not
long
after
.
In
the
mean
time
,
he
made
their
Condition
known
to
the
Bishop
,
who
,
as
I
told
you
in
my
last
,
is
none
of
those
morose
Censurers
,
who
exclaim
against
the
least
Breach
of
the
Rules
of
Decency
;
and
indeed
,
he
was
sensibly
touch'd
with
the
disast'rous
Condition
of
these
sorrowful
Lovers
;
and
admiring
the
odd
Effects
of
Love
and
Fortune
,
he
look'd
upon
'em
as
Objects
of
Compassion
,
and
assur'd
'em
,
that
it
shou'd
not
be
his
Fault
,
if
their
Sufferings
were
not
crown'd
with
the
Happiness
they
deserv'd
.
They
were
soon
sensible
of
the
Sincerity
of
his
Kindness
;
for
he
joyn'd
'em
together
in
Marriage
,
Cloath'd
'em
,
and
entertain'd
'em
;
till
having
written
to
their
Relations
,
and
obtain'd
their
pardon
,
he
sent
them
back
to
their
own
Country
.
To
keep
you
from
suspecting
the
Truth
of
this
Relation
,
't
will
be
sufficient
to
acquaint
you
,
that
't
is
not
above
Fifteen
Days
since
that
admirable
pair
of
Lovers
departed
from
this
Place
.
I
am
so
much
in
Love
with
the
Bishop's
Generosity
on
this
Occasion
,
and
even
I
think
my self
so
extremely
oblig'd
to
him
for
it
,
that
I
know
nothing
so
difficult
,
which
I
wou'd
not
undertake
for
his
Service
:
And
I
'm
confident
that
a
Man
who
is
capable
of
performing
an
Action
of
that
Nature
,
must
infallibly
be
Master
of
all
the
Cardinal
Virtues
.
And
to
convince
you
that
he
is
no
less
remarkable
for
his
Prudence
,
and
the
solidity
of
his
Judgment
,
I
shall
add
one
Story
more
before
I
finish
my
Letter
.
The
Ghost
of
St.
Antony
of
Mar
〈…〉
P.
〈…〉
I
shall
conclude
this
Letter
with
telling
you
,
That
there
are
so
many
Occasions
of
going
to
Turkey
to
be
met
with
in
this
place
,
that
I●m
fully
resolv'd
to
undertake
a
Voyage
thither
.
I
may
perhaps
find
some
English
or
Dutch
Vessels
there
,
and
without
any
considerable
Charge
satisfie
my
Curiosity
with
the
View
of
a
Country
of
which
I
have
heard
so
many
Wonders
.
I
'm
just
going
to
embark
on
the
S.
Anthony
of
Ciotat
,
bound
first
for
Genoa
,
and
then
for
L●ghorn
,
and
commanded
by
Captain
Marin
,
who
designs
to
stay
so
long
in
the
last
of
these
places
,
that
I
shall
have
an
Opportunity
to
see
part
of
Italy
,
before
we
set
sail
for
Constantinople
,
from
whence
you
may
expect
a
farther
Account
of
my
Travels
.
I
am
,
SIR
,
Your
&c.
Marseilles
,
March
1690.
LETTER
IX
.
SIR
,
AFter
I
have
told
you
that
we
set
sail
from
Marseilles
on
the
25
th
.
of
March
,
you
must
not
expect
to
hear
more
News
of
us
till
our
Landing
;
for
I
cannot
imagine
what
pleasure
you
cou'd
take
in
reading
,
that
on
such
a
Day
the
South
or
East
Winds
were
contrary
to
us
,
or
that
we
were
forc'd
to
tack
about
to
the
North
or
West
.
I
'm
so
far
from
looking
upon
the
Sea
as
my
Element
,
that
I
never
found
the
least
Inclination
to
be
acquainted
with
it
.
Besides
,
Sir
,
I
must
confess
I
'm
naturally
apt
to
judge
of
others
by
my self
;
and
therefore
when
I
remember
how
often
I
have
skip'd
over
such
Passages
in
the
Relations
of
Travellers
,
I
cannot
forbear
concluding
that
you
wou'd
be
as
little
pleas'd
with
so
dull
an
Entertainment
.
Since
then
you
will
have
the
Advantage
of
passing
from
one
Port
to
another
,
without
feeling
the
Inconveniencies
of
bad
Weather
,
or
being
troubl'd
with
the
Noisy
Hurry
of
the
Mariners
,
I
hope
you
will
be
the
more
easily
persuaded
to
stop
a
while
with
me
at
the
Isles
of
If
,
where
we
spent
a
whole
Day
at
Anchor
,
after
we
came
out
of
the
Port
of
Marseilles
.
The
Isles
of
If
are
three
small
Islands
about
three
Miles
distant
from
Marseilles
,
forming
a
very
safe
Harbour
against
any
sorts
of
Wind
,
which
is
defended
by
two
strong
Castles
,
where
the
King
keeps
a
Garrison
.
These
Islands
are
of
great
Importance
to
secure
the
Trade
of
Marseilles
;
for
without
the
Advantage
of
their
Neighbourhood
,
that
City
wou'd
be
a
kind
of
Prison
,
since
't
wou'd
be
impossible
for
any
Vessels
to
go
out
of
the
Port
,
without
exposing
themselves
to
the
Insults
of
their
Enemies
:
And
besides
,
the
Storms
that
are
so
frequent
in
the
Mediterranean
,
wou'd
drive
many
Ships
upon
the
Shoar
,
if
they
had
not
the
Conveniency
of
standing
into
this
Harbour
.
But
notwithstanding
the
Advantageous
Situation
of
these
Islands
,
and
the
great
Importance
of
the
Harbour
for
the
Security
of
Trade
,
they
were
mortgag'd
by
one
of
our
Kings
to
the
Duke
of
Florence
,
for
six
hundred
thousand
Crowns
.
Whilst
the
Princes
of
that
Family
injoy'd
the
possession
of
this
Post
,
the
Spaniards
left
no
means
unessay'd
to
make
himself
Master
of
it
;
but
they
were
either
resolv'd
to
keep
it
in
their
own
Power
,
or
afraid
to
incur
the
Anger
of
the
French
,
since
't
is
certain
that
they
rejected
all
the
Proposals
that
were
made
to
'em
upon
this
Occasion
.
These
Islands
were
afterwards
reunited
to
the
Crown
,
by
the
Marriage
of
Mary
de
Medicis
with
Henry
the
Fourth
.
And
the
Success
of
that
Negotiation
was
in
a
great
measure
owing
to
the
Marquiss
de
Pile
,
who
was
then
Governour
of
the
Place
;
for
he
made
Duke
Francis
sensible
,
that
't
was
better
to
comply
with
the
Desires
of
that
Monarch
,
than
to
engage
himself
in
a
War
with
so
potent
an
Enemy
.
In
consideration
of
so
acceptable
a
piece
of
Service
,
the
Marquiss
was
continu'd
in
his
former
Post
,
and
the
Reversion
of
his
Office
was
bestow'd
on
his
Son
,
who
died
there
,
leaving
two
Sons
,
the
elder
of
whom
,
who
enjoys
his
Grandfather's
Title
,
succeeded
in
the
Government
of
these
Islands
;
and
the
younger
,
call'd
the
Count
de
Forville
,
was
made
Governour
Viguier
of
Marseilles
,
and
Captain
of
one
of
the
King's
Galleys
;
the
yearly
Revenue
of
these
two
Places
amounting
to
20000
Livres
.
To
make
amends
for
the
less
favourable
part
of
the
Character
I
gave
you
of
the
Natives
of
Prov●nce
,
I
shall
take
this
Occasion
to
acquaint
you
with
some
of
their
better
Qualities
:
For
I
love
to
do
Justice
to
all
Men
;
and
besides
,
I
wou'd
willingly
make
my
Peace
with
the
Inhabitants
,
before
I
leave
their
Country
:
They
are
very
good
Mariners
,
and
are
famous
over
all
Europe
for
their
Industry
and
Diligence
:
Nor
are
they
less
remarkable
for
their
Courage
and
Bravery
;
for
they
are
so
little
capable
of
Fear
,
that
they
wou'd
reckon
it
a
piece
of
Cowardice
to
turn
their
Backs
to
ten
times
their
Number
of
Enemies
.
Not
very
long
ago
,
our
Captain
's
Uncle
,
call'd
Blaise
Marin
,
in
a
Ship
of
Forty
Guns
,
maintain'd
a
Fight
for
three
Days
together
,
during
a
Calm
,
against
five
Tripolin
Men
of
War
,
with
so
much
Resolution
and
Success
,
that
they
were
forc'd
at
last
to
leave
him
.
And
a
small
Bark
of
thirty
Men
,
was
about
a
Year
ago
snatch'd
out
of
the
very
Jaws
of
the
Algerines
,
by
the
Prudence
and
Bravery
of
the
Pilot.
She
was
chas'd
by
one
of
the
largest
of
the
Enemy's
Ships
,
in
which
there
were
four
hundred
Men
,
till
seeing
no
possibility
of
escaping
,
that
Handful
of
Men
resolv'd
to
board
the
Ship
that
pursu'd
'em
,
without
lowering
their
Sails
,
or
grappling
the
Vessels
together
:
And
the
Pilot
leaping
on
board
the
Enemy's
Ship
,
with
his
Curtelas
in
his
Hand
,
cut
the
Rope
that
sustain'd
their
Main-Sail
,
which
they
cou'd
not
hoise
again
in
above
three
Hours
.
In
the
mean
time
the
Pilot
jump'd
into
his
own
Bark
,
and
Crying
,
Courage
,
my
Boys
,
we
're
sav'd
,
steer'd
away
from
the
Enemy
,
who
could
never
afterwards
come
up
with
him
.
The
Merchants
at
his
Return
,
presented
him
with
a
Gold
Medal
;
nor
cou'd
they
in
Justice
do
less
Honour
to
so
rare
a
Merit
.
But
they
will
not
be
so
kind
to
a
Captain
,
call'd
Curet
,
who
had
the
Misfortune
to
be
taken
by
the
Galleys
of
Naples
about
three
Months
ago
:
For
tho'
he
had
only
24
Guns
mounted
,
and
100
Men
on
board
,
to
resist
seven
Galleys
that
attack'd
him
;
his
Countrymen
exclaim
against
him
as
the
basest
of
Cowards
;
and
I
know
not
whether
't
will
ever
be
safe
for
him
to
show
his
Face
at
Marseilles
.
But
after
all
,
this
seems
to
be
a
Rodomontade
,
rather
than
an
effect
of
true
Courage
;
since
it
must
be
acknowledg'd
that
seven
Galleys
are
a
very
unequal
Match
for
the
strongest
Merchant-Ship
in
the
World
.
Three
Days
after
our
departure
from
If
,
we
arriv'd
at
Genoa
,
which
you
know
is
usually
call'd
Genoa
the
Proud
,
tho'
in
my
Opinion
it
cannot
pretend
the
least
Right
to
that
Title
:
'T
is
the
Capital
City
of
Liguria
,
and
had
its
Name
from
Janus
the
first
,
King
of
Italy
;
or
according
to
others
,
from
double-fac'd
Janus
.
Some
make
this
Janus
King
of
the
Toïans
;
and
others
deduce
the
Etymology
of
the
Word
from
Janua
,
a
Gate
,
or
Door
;
because
Genoa
is
as
it
were
the
Gate
of
Italy
.
Authors
are
generally
much
divided
concerning
the
true
Name
of
this
City
:
Luitprand
,
Tircin
,
and
some
others
,
call
it
Janua
;
Titus
Livius
,
Ptolomy
,
and
Strabo
,
give
it
the
Name
of
Genua
;
and
the
latter
Opinion
seems
to
be
better
grounded
than
the
former
,
especially
since
't
is
confirm'd
by
a
small
Copper-Plate
,
which
is
to
be
seen
in
this
Place
,
and
was
found
Ann.
1507.
by
a
Peasant
,
as
he
was
Tilling
the
Ground
.
The
Inscription
is
engrav'd
in
very
small
,
but
pretty
distinct
,
Roman
Characters
;
and
in
it
the
Genoese
are
call'd
Genuates
.
The
time
of
its
Foundation
is
unknown
,
at
least
I
never
had
the
Fortune
to
meet
with
a
satisfactory
Account
of
it
in
any
Author
,
either
Ancient
or
Modern
.
'T
is
seated
at
the
bottom
of
a
little
Gulf
,
on
the
Declivity
,
and
at
the
Foot
of
a
Hill
,
seeming
to
consist
of
several
Stories
.
The
Port
lies
very
open
towards
the
Sea
,
and
therefore
cannot
afford
safe
Anchorage
for
Ships
.
The
City
contains
five
and
thirty
Parishes
;
the
Streets
are
uneven
,
and
very
narrow
,
tho'
the
Houses
are
extremely
high
.
In
the
middle
of
the
Publick
Place
,
there
is
a
Marble
Statue
of
an
unusual
bigness
,
representing
Andrew
Doria
,
the
Deliverer
of
the
Republick
,
trampling
on
three
Turks
Heads
,
in
Memory
of
the
signal
Victories
he
obtain'd
over
these
Infidels
.
The
Palaces
of
Genoa
are
very
much
admir'd
;
and
it
must
be
acknowledg'd
that
some
of
'em
are
very
fine
Structures
;
but
the
principal
Beauty
of
those
few
that
deserve
that
Title
,
consists
in
the
Marble
of
which
they
are
built
.
Marble
is
no
Rarity
in
this
Country
;
all
the
Churches
are
adorn'd
with
it
,
as
well
as
the
Palace
Royal
,
where
his
Serenity
keeps
his
Residence
:
But
after
all
,
you
must
not
imagine
that
the
Streets
are
pav'd
with
it
.
Since
we
staid
but
two
Days
in
the
City
,
I
cou'd
not
find
an
Opportunity
to
see
the
Inside
of
any
of
the
Palaces
,
and
therefore
I
cannot
satisfie
your
Curiosity
with
a
Description
of
'em
.
You
are
so
well
acquainted
with
the
nature
of
the
Government
,
that
't
wou'd
be
needless
to
give
you
any
farther
Account
of
it
;
only
I
cannot
forbear
taking
notice
of
the
extreme
Decrease
of
the
Power
and
Grandeur
of
this
Republick
since
those
glorious
Days
,
when
they
extended
their
Conquests
to
the
Tanais
,
and
made
themselves
Masters
of
all
the
Coasts
of
Asia
,
and
the
Islands
of
Cyprus
,
Scio
,
Lesbos
,
&c.
They
still
retain
a
little
Island
,
with
the
Title
of
a
Kingdom
,
and
are
extremely
proud
of
it
,
tho'
,
in
my
Opinion
,
without
any
reason
.
The
Habits
of
the
Nobles
resemble
those
of
the
Counsellors
in
France
;
they
dare
not
wear
Gold
or
Silver
when
they
come
abroad
;
but
in
their
Houses
they
have
very
rich
Vests
,
and
costly
Night-Gowns
.
Since
the
late
Bombardment
of
the
City
,
they
cannot
endure
those
of
our
Nation
.
They
show'd
me
a
Convent
of
Nuns
,
into
which
there
fell
not
one
Bomb
,
tho'
there
were
above
a
hundred
shot
at
it
;
and
told
me
,
that
there
was
a
Hand
seen
in
the
Air
,
which
diverted
their
Course
,
and
threw
'em
another
way
.
The
Jews
,
who
are
detested
by
all
the
World
,
were
in
great
Favour
here
during
those
terrible
Disorders
,
because
they
found
out
a
way
to
quench
the
Bombs
with
Ox
Hides
:
Yet
this
is
not
a
new
Invention
;
for
the
same
was
practised
long
before
by
the
Inhabitants
of
Groningen
,
when
they
were
besieg'd
by
the
Bishop
of
Munster
in
1672
:
And
since
that
time
the
Algerines
made
use
of
the
same
Secret
;
besides
the
covering
of
their
Streets
with
Sand.
Nor
is
there
any
thing
wonderful
in
the
Success
of
this
Stratagem
;
for
one
may
easily
and
infallibly
smother
a
Bomb
if
he
can
come
in
time
to
stop
the
Hole
before
the
Fusee
be
spent
.
At
the
Assault
of
the
Horn-Work
at
Philipsburg
,
I
saw
a
Soldier
take
the
same
way
to
prevent
the
Effect
of
the
Granadoes
,
which
the
Germans
threw
among
us
:
For
he
gather'd
'em
as
they
fell
,
and
stopping
the
Touch-Hole
with
his
Hand
,
either
smother'd
'em
immediately
,
or
threw
'em
back
upon
the
Enemies
.
But
tho'
this
may
be
easily
done
,
it
cannot
be
attempted
without
Danger
;
for
the
Fusee
is
always
made
as
short
as
possible
;
and
if
the
Fire
shou'd
happen
to
reach
the
Powder
when
the
Man
throws
himself
upon
the
Bomb
,
the
shutting
out
of
the
Air
wou'd
only
〈◊〉
it
burst
the
sooner
.
But
tho'
the
shortness
of
our
stay
at
Genoa
wou'd
not
permit
me
to
gratifie
your
Curiosity
with
an
Account
of
the
Beauties
and
Rarities
of
that
City
;
I
confess
I
cannot
pretend
the
same
Excuse
for
declining
to
undertake
the
Description
of
Rome
,
Florence
,
and
the
place
where
I
am
at
present
.
I
have
spent
two
whole
Months
in
examining
and
admiring
that
infinite
Number
of
Wonders
that
seem
to
have
been
brought
from
all
the
parts
of
the
World
,
and
shut
up
in
this
Country
,
as
in
a
vast
Repository
.
I
have
even
wallow'd
in
Delight
,
and
been
kept
in
a
continual
Rapture
with
the
amazing
View
of
so
many
noble
Structures
,
august
Monuments
of
Antiquity
,
inestimable
Libraries
,
Statues
,
Pictures
,
Works
of
Marble
and
Porphyrie
,
and
a
Thousand
other
Curiosities
,
of
which
there
is
a
prodigious
and
even
incredible
Abundance
in
these
places
.
I
have
seen
all
these
magnificent
Rarities
;
I
have
view'd
'em
with
all
imaginable
Pleasure
and
Attention
,
and
my
Mind
is
still
full
of
their
agreeable
Idea's
;
but
tho'
I
have
not
forgot
what
I
promis'd
you
,
neither
the
Consideration
of
your
Satisfaction
,
nor
of
my
own
Engagement
,
can
make
me
willing
to
keep
my
Promise
with
respect
to
Italy
.
You
must
e'en
give
me
leave
to
claim
the
Privilege
of
a
Norman
once
in
my
Life
;
and
you
will
easily
dispense
with
the
Account
you
expected
from
me
,
if
you
peruse
the
Relations
of
so
many
Travellers
,
who
have
visited
this
lovely
Country
from
one
end
to
the
other
,
especially
the
late
Work
of
Monsieur
Misson
:
For
what
can
be
added
to
so
exact
a
Description
?
Is
there
any
Corner
in
Italy
,
that
has
escap'd
his
inquisitive
Curiosity
,
or
any
thing
remarkable
in
it
which
he
has
not
illustrated
with
Learned
and
Judicious
Reflexions
?
He
is
a
compleat
Traveller
;
he
has
forgot
nothing
that
deserves
to
be
taken
notice
of
,
and
has
so
intirely
exhausted
his
Subject
,
that
there
is
nothing
left
for
future
Observers
.
And
therefore
,
instead
of
describing
Italy
,
I
shall
only
desire
you
to
consult
his
Book
,
by
the
Assistance
of
which
,
you
may
make
one
of
the
pleasantest
Voyages
in
the
World
without
going
out
of
your
Closet
.
But
since
you
will
perhaps
expect
that
I
shou'd
at
least
add
something
to
convince
you
that
I
have
seen
these
celebrated
Places
,
I
shall
adventure
to
tell
you
,
that
among
so
many
admirable
Rarities
that
fill'd
me
with
Wonder
and
Amazement
,
there
is
nothing
,
in
my
Opinion
,
more
extraordinary
and
surprising
than
the
Pomp
and
Magnificence
of
the
Court
of
Rome
.
I
know
not
whether
this
Remark
will
make
amends
for
my
Silence
in
other
Respects
:
You
'll
perhaps
tell
me
,
that
't
is
a
stale
and
trivial
Observation
:
However
,
you
must
give
me
leave
to
assure
you
,
that
't
is
not
an
easie
Task
to
represent
all
its
Wonders
;
and
I
must
confess
,
that
hitherto
I
had
never
any
Idea
of
it
,
that
did
not
come
short
of
the
Truth
.
The
Court
of
Rome
is
no
less
Numerous
and
Magnificent
than
that
of
France
;
and
perhaps
I
might
venture
to
say
,
that
the
latter
is
exceeded
by
the
former
.
Every
Cardinal
is
a
Prince
,
who
receives
daily
all
the
Marks
of
Honour
and
Respect
from
a
Thousand
Prelates
,
and
other
Ecclesiasticks
,
that
look
upon
him
as
their
Sovereign
,
and
place
their
whole
Felicity
in
his
Favour
.
Nothing
is
wanting
to
compleat
the
Splendor
of
their
Dignity
:
Magnificent
Palaces
,
rich
Furnitures
,
delicious
Tables
,
Pleasure-Houses
,
Gardens
,
Grotto's
,
Fountains
,
numerous
Trains
of
Servants
,
and
,
to
crown
all
,
the
Conversation
and
Society
of
the
handsomest
Ladies
in
Europe
;
for
you
must
not
imagine
that
their
Character
confines
'em
to
all
the
Austerities
of
a
Monastick
Life
;
and
,
excepting
only
some
Gray-Bearded
Dotards
,
that
pretend
to
the
Popedom
,
the
rest
are
as
Gay
and
Amorous
as
any
young
French
Prince
.
'T
wou'd
be
needless
to
apply
this
Character
particularly
to
all
the
Members
of
the
Sacred
College
;
and
therefore
I
shall
content
my self
with
assuring
you
,
that
none
deserves
it
more
justly
than
the
Cardinal
Patron
,
who
has
acquir'd
so
Universal
a
Reputation
of
an
accomplish'd
Gallant
,
that
't
is
generally
reckon'd
the
most
effectual
way
to
obtain
a
Favour
of
him
,
to
make
use
of
the
Intercession
of
a
Lady
;
and
even
he
scruples
not
to
declare
,
that
he
has
not
the
Force
to
refuse
any
thing
to
a
fair
Petitioner
.
Those
who
love
Pleasure
and
Luxury
,
cannot
desire
a
more
favourable
Treatment
than
they
meet
with
under
the
present
Pontificate
.
The
Holy
Father
encourages
'em
by
his
own
Example
;
his
Table
and
Furniture
are
Magnificent
,
and
his
Nephews
resemble
so
many
Sovereigns
.
The
Prince
Mark
is
attended
with
a
Train
of
forty
Lacqueys
,
all
clad
in
a
Livery
of
Cloth
of
Gold
,
and
his
Stable
is
furnish'd
with
sixty
of
the
finest
Horses
in
Rome
;
tho'
all
this
is
a
manifest
Violation
of
the
Edicts
that
were
publish'd
to
regulate
the
Affairs
of
the
Nepotism
.
'T
is
true
,
the
People
grumble
extremely
to
see
their
Substance
exhausted
,
and
the
very
Blood
drain'd
out
of
their
Bodies
,
to
maintain
the
extravagant
Vanity
of
those
Upstart
Favourites
,
who
about
a
Year
ago
were
as
poor
as
themselves
.
But
among
so
many
Marks
of
Splendour
,
there
is
nothing
more
surprizing
,
than
the
Magnificent
Gondola's
,
built
by
the
Pope's
Orders
,
which
are
the
first
that
ever
grac'd
the
Tiber.
His
Holiness
goes
thither
very
often
to
take
the
Air
,
accompany'd
with
those
that
have
the
greatest
Share
in
his
Favour
;
and
't
is
thought
he
designs
to
bring
the
Venetian
Fresco
into
Fashion
at
Rome
,
which
in
my
Opinion
is
a
Project
that
may
be
easily
accomplish'd
,
since
the
Roman
Ladies
love
to
be
seen
,
as
well
as
the
rest
of
the
Fair
Sex
.
In
the
mean
time
the
Luxury
and
Vanity
of
the
present
Pope
,
gives
occasion
to
several
well-dispos'd
Persons
,
to
make
Comparisons
between
his
Conduct
,
and
that
of
his
Predecessour
,
which
you
may
reasonably
conclude
are
not
in
the
least
Advantageous
to
his
Holiness
:
For
there
is
certainly
a
very
remarkable
Difference
between
these
two
Pontiffs
:
He
who
at
present
fills
the
Chair
,
makes
it
his
only
business
to
gratifie
his
Inclination
to
Pleasure
,
and
to
Aggrandize
his
Family
;
whereas
the
good
Pope
Innocent
apply'd
himself
only
to
the
performance
of
the
Duties
of
his
Office
,
reforming
the
Abuses
that
had
crept
into
Rome
,
visiting
the
Hospitals
,
and
assisting
the
Poor
.
And
besides
,
he
left
no
Means
unessay'd
,
to
restore
Peace
to
Christendom
:
And
when
an
unjust
Power
endeavour'd
to
extend
its
Usurpations
to
the
Church
it self
,
we
had
the
Pleasure
to
see
that
generous
Prelate
oppose
the
incroaching
Tyranny
,
with
a
Resolution
and
Piety
worthy
of
a
Common
Father
.
His
Private
Life
,
and
Domestick
Occupations
,
were
no
less
Edifying
:
He
was
easie
of
Access
to
all
Men
,
and
hearken'd
favourably
to
the
Poor
when
they
came
to
represent
their
Grievances
to
him
,
or
to
beg
his
Assistance
.
His
external
Deportment
was
very
simple
,
and
so
free
from
the
least
Appearance
of
Worldly
Pomp
,
that
he
might
be
call'd
the
Model
of
Humility
.
I
'm
assur'd
by
several
Persons
of
unquestion'd
Credit
,
that
the
Expence
of
his
Table
was
fix'd
at
[
](A36827-e18870-b)*
*
One
Shilling
.
Two
Julio's
a
Day
,
and
that
the
whole
Charge
of
his
Provisions
did
not
exceed
Fifty
Crowns
a
Year
.
I
cannot
without
Astonishment
reflect
on
the
admirable
Sobriety
of
a
Person
who
might
be
justly
rank'd
among
the
most
Potent
Princes
in
the
World
;
and
am
not
at
all
surpriz'd
that
most
Persons
here
esteem
him
a
Saint
.
'T
is
said
that
Miracles
are
wrought
at
his
Tomb
;
and
if
that
Report
continue
a
while
longer
,
he
will
certainly
be
the
only
Object
of
the
People's
Devotion
.
I
know
not
whether
the
Zeal
of
his
Adorers
may
not
one
Day
procure
the
deceas'd
Pope
a
place
among
the
Canoniz'd
Saints
:
But
considering
the
Reputation
of
his
Successour
,
I
may
venture
to
assure
you
,
that
he
will
never
be
enroll'd
among
that
Number
.
Under
this
Pontificat
the
Curtezans
have
resum'd
their
expiring
Courage
,
and
begin
to
appear
with
the
same
Haughtiness
and
Insolency
that
seem'd
to
be
in
some
Measure
curb'd
under
the
Government
of
Innocent
XI
.
That
Jovial
Society
,
which
may
be
reckon'd
a
Fourth
Order
in
the
State
,
and
no
less
considerable
than
any
of
the
rest
,
will
,
in
all
probability
,
maintain
its
Privileges
and
Liberties
as
long
as
the
Supreme
Power
is
lodg'd
in
the
Clergy
,
who
will
never
deprive
themselves
of
so
necessary
a
Diversion
.
And
truly
,
I
know
not
how
so
many
young
Persons
that
are
engag'd
in
a
Vow
which
they
are
not
able
to
perform
,
cou'd
subsist
,
without
the
comfortable
Assistance
of
those
Communicative
Ladies
.
Honest
Matrons
are
daily
affronted
by
those
domineering
Strumpets
,
whose
Insolence
they
must
suffer
patiently
,
since
't
wou'd
be
in
vain
to
contend
with
the
Mistresses
of
their
Masters
.
I
'm
not
in
the
least
surpriz'd
at
their
Haughtiness
and
Pride
;
but
I
confess
I
cou'd
never
have
believ'd
,
without
the
Testimony
of
my
own
Eyes
,
that
they
had
so
much
Liberty
,
and
so
little
Shame
.
We
had
no
sooner
drop●d
Anchor
before
Leghorn
,
but
we
were
immediately
boarded
by
a
Dozen
of
these
Female
Pyrates
,
who
,
in
spite
of
the
Captain
,
carry'd
off
an
equal
Number
of
Prizes
;
for
Mariners
look
upon
this
Port
as
a
priviledg'd
Place
,
where
they
may
ramble
without
controul
.
'T
is
true
,
they
find
Pleasure
is
not
a
cheap
Commodity
in
this
place
;
for
these
Ladies
are
not
so
Hospitable
as
to
entertain
Travellers
Gratis
,
and
they
usually
set
a
very
high
price
on
their
Favours
,
especially
at
Rome
,
which
may
be
call'd
the
Centre
of
Whores
.
I
will
not
pretend
to
warrant
the
Truth
of
their
Opinion
,
who
say
,
That
at
Rome
Whores
may
sue
a
Man
for
their
Hire
:
But
I
can
assure
you
,
that
they
may
and
do
demand
the
Assistance
of
the
Corte
,
or
Watch
,
who
have
Orders
to
protect
'em
,
and
see
'em
paid
,
according
to
the
Quality
of
the
Person
.
The
Corte
is
a
Band
of
Sbirri's
,
who
walk
the
Rounds
every
Night
,
to
prevent
Disorders
;
but
their
Authority
is
so
small
,
and
the
care
they
take
to
suppress
Abuses
so
ineffectual
,
that
I
know
not
whether
the
City
receives
any
Benefit
by
'em
:
For
since
they
are
not
permitted
to
Fire
at
any
Person
,
't
is
easie
for
any
Man
that
has
the
Advantage
of
a
Nimble
Pair
of
Heels
,
to
avoid
falling
into
their
Clutches
;
and
there
are
some
roaring
Hectors
,
who
not
only
make
Head
against
'em
,
but
even
keep
'em
in
Awe
.
I
might
reckon
up
a
Thousand
Instances
of
such
insolent
Villanies
;
but
I
shall
content
my self
with
mentioning
one
that
happen'd
very
lately
:
The
City
was
never
plagu'd
with
a
more
desperate
Villain
than
a
certain
Neapolitan
Lord
,
call'd
,
The
Prince
de
la
Matrice
,
who
was
Ring-leader
of
Fifty
Bandits
that
were
fit
Companions
for
such
a
Master
:
He
and
his
Gang
made
all
the
Sbirri's
in
Rome
quake
,
and
continu'd
their
Insolences
above
a
Year
,
till
at
last
the
Pope
having
issu'd
out
an
Order
to
take
him
alive
or
dead
,
he
took
Sanctuary
in
a
Church
,
where
he
Capitulated
with
his
Holiness
,
and
was
permitted
to
depart
with
Bag
and
Baggage
,
he
and
all
his
Companions
.
'T
is
certainly
a
very
great
Abuse
,
that
Churches
shou'd
serve
as
places
of
Retreat
for
Villains
;
and
so
long
as
these
Privileges
remain
,
the
abolishing
of
the
Franchises
will
never
put
a
Stop
to
the
reigning
Disorders
.
But
,
which
is
still
more
intolerable
,
the
Churches
are
not
only
so
many
Sanctuaries
to
secure
Malefactors
from
Punishment
,
but
the
Theatres
where
they
act
their
Villanies
.
The
other
Day
,
when
the
People
were
met
to
hear
Vesper's
at
the
Church
of
S.
Lewis
,
and
were
busie
at
their
Devotion
,
Fifteen
or
Twenty
Persons
cry'd
out
on
a
sudden
,
Fly
,
fly
,
the
Church
is
falling
;
and
immediately
run
towards
the
Door
,
with
so
many
signs
of
Fear
,
that
the
People
were
almost
persuaded
that
the
Church
was
tumbling
about
their
Ears
.
And
since
on
such
Occasions
't
is
natural
for
a
Man
to
think
of
saving
himself
,
before
he
consider
the
greatness
or
probability
of
the
Danger
,
the
People
in
the
Church
follow'd
those
whom
they
saw
running
out
,
with
so
much
haste
and
confusion
,
that
several
Persons
were
trodden
under
Foot
,
and
so
hurt
that
they
were
forc'd
to
keep
their
Beds
.
In
the
mean
time
the
Rogues
were
not
idle
Spectatours
of
the
Fright
they
had
occasion'd
;
and
some
began
to
miss
their
Purses
,
and
others
their
Silver-hilted
Swords
,
assoon
as
the
Tumult
was
appeas'd
,
and
the
Cheat
discover'd
.
During
my
abode
at
Rome
,
I
had
the
fortune
to
meet
with
the
same
Priest
,
who
,
as
I
told
you
in
one
of
my
preceeding
Letters
,
was
imprison'd
at
Mascon
on
suspicion
of
Witchcraft
:
He
makes
his
Court
to
Cardinal
Chigi
,
whom
he
solicites
very
earnestly
,
and
expects
to
obtain
a
Benefice
from
him
;
but
he
is
certainly
an
incorrigible
Fool
,
as
you
may
perceive
by
the
Account
he
gave
me
of
himself
.
He
assur'd
me
,
that
he
entertain'd
a
most
intimate
Fellowship
and
Correspondence
with
certain
imaginary
Inhabitants
of
the
Air
,
by
whose
Assistance
he
pretends
that
one
may
easily
surmount
all
Difficulties
,
and
wou'd
have
persuaded
me
,
that
these
Spirits
open'd
the
Doors
of
the
Prison
when
he
was
in
danger
of
being
condemn'd
as
a
Sorcerer
.
I
was
so
surpriz'd
at
the
Novelty
and
Oddness
of
his
Opinion
,
that
I
resolv'd
to
discourse
seriously
with
him
about
it
,
and
ask'd
him
how
he
came
acquainted
with
that
Airy
People
,
and
why
they
wou'd
not
discover
themselves
to
the
rest
of
Mankind
.
He
reply'd
,
that
they
communicated
their
Favours
only
to
those
who
are
willing
to
hearken
to
'em
,
and
to
enter
into
a
Society
with
'em
;
adding
,
that
they
have
many
Correspondents
in
the
World
who
live
unknown
,
and
conceal
themselves
with
all
possible
Care
,
to
avoid
the
Fate
of
so
many
Honest
Persons
,
that
have
been
burnt
alive
for
Witchcraft
in
several
places
of
the
Kingdom
.
He
deny'd
positively
that
there
were
any
Witches
,
saying
,
That
God
was
too
Just
and
Good
to
give
so
much
Power
to
the
Devil
,
who
,
according
to
his
Opinion
,
lies
bound
in
Hell
,
from
whence
he
shall
never
be
releas'd
.
But
I
soon
perceiv'd
that
there
was
as
much
Confusion
in
his
Brain
as
in
his
Discourse
,
and
that
he
was
a
meer
Fantastical
Enthusiast
.
I
know
not
what
Credit
ye
will
give
to
this
Man's
Relation
concerning
his
imaginary
Acquaintances
in
the
Air
;
but
you
may
firmly
believe
the
Story
with
which
I
am
going
to
conclude
my
Letter
,
since
I
was
an
Eye-witness
of
all
that
pass'd
.
A
certain
Florentine
Soldier
in
this
City
,
without
pretending
to
be
invulnerable
,
undertook
for
a
Wager
of
a
Crown
to
stand
as
a
Mark
till
four
Bullets
were
successively
shot
at
him
,
and
perform'd
his
Undertaking
without
receiving
the
least
hurt
,
tho'
the
Man
who
discharg'd
the
Gun
stood
but
fifty
Paces
from
him
,
and
cou'd
neither
be
suspected
of
Collusion
,
nor
want
of
Skill
,
since
all
the
four
Bullets
pierc'd
the
Door
against
which
the
Florentin
stood
.
You
will
doubtless
look
upon
this
as
a
very
odd
and
surprizing
Accident
:
I
was
so
amaz'd
at
it
,
that
I
know
not
whether
I
cou'd
have
believ'd
it
if
I
had
not
seen
it
:
Yet
I
can
assure
you
,
that
the
Florentin
is
no
Magician
,
and
that
his
Secret
only
consists
in
shifting
his
place
assoon
as
he
perceives
the
flashing
of
the
Powder
:
And
the
Account
he
gave
me
of
the
easiness
of
his
Undertaking
,
has
considerably
lessen'd
my
Surprizal
at
the
Success
of
it
:
However
,
I
wou'd
not
for
10000
Pistols
try
the
Experiment
any
otherwise
than
by
shooting
a
Bullet
into
the
Sea
.
The
Soldier
found
out
this
way
to
give
me
some
Satisfaction
;
and
I
observ'd
that
the
Bullet
remain'd
so
long
in
the
Air
,
that
a
Man
might
easily
have
avoided
it
.
Our
Captain
having
taken
in
all
his
Lading
,
expects
only
a
fair
Wind
;
and
by
good
fortune
,
the
third
part
of
the
Cargo
belongs
to
Malta
;
so
that
I
shall
have
the
pleasure
of
spending
at
the
least
Fifteen
Days
in
that
celebrated
Island
.
I
am
,
SIR
,
Your
&c.
Leghorn
,
May
1690.
LETTER
X.
SIR
,
THo'
I
promis'd
in
my
last
to
excuse
you
from
sharing
with
us
in
the
Inconveniencies
of
the
Sea
,
and
to
bring
you
from
France
to
Turkey
,
without
meeting
with
one
Storm
;
I
cannot
forbear
giving
you
account
of
one
that
overtook
us
in
the
height
of
Sardinia
.
And
I
have
even
the
confidence
to
think
that
you
will
not
complain
of
my
breach
of
Promise
,
since
we
had
all
the
Trouble
,
and
you
will
only
have
the
Pleasure
;
if
there
be
any
truth
in
the
common
Observation
,
That
Men
usually
take
delight
in
hearing
a
Relation
of
distant
Misfortunes
.
The
pleasure
of
our
Voyage
was
not
disturb'd
for
the
first
two
Days
,
tho'
we
made
no
great
Progress
;
but
on
the
Third
,
about
seven
in
the
Morning
,
there
arose
on
the
sudden
a
most
furious
North-East
Wind
,
which
burst
our
Sails
as
if
they
had
been
made
of
Paper
;
and
between
the
Wind
on
one
side
,
and
the
South-West
Surges
on
the
other
,
our
Ship
was
so
violently
toss'd
,
that
our
Mariners
durst
not
stir
from
the
Sides
of
the
Ship
,
for
fear
of
being
wash'd
off
by
the
Waves
.
Never
was
there
any
Object
more
capable
of
striking
Terrour
into
the
Spectatour
;
never
any
Noise
more
frightful
and
amazing
than
that
which
was
occasion'd
by
the
tumbling
of
the
Casks
and
Boxes
,
the
Wind
,
Thunder
,
and
Sea
,
the
cracking
of
the
Ship
,
and
the
howling
of
some
Women
that
were
on
board
.
A
horrid
Gloom
turn'd
the
Day
into
Night
,
and
was
succeeded
by
a
Flash
of
Lightning
that
cover'd
our
Ship
for
above
a
Minute
,
and
was
accompany'd
with
a
terrible
and
stupefying
Crack
.
I
know
not
what
we
did
in
the
mean
time
,
nor
was
there
one
among
my
Fellow-Passengers
that
cou'd
inform
me
what
was
done
in
that
dreadful
Minute
:
For
we
were
all
so
stunn'd
,
that
there
were
hardly
any
Signs
of
Life
left
in
us
.
All
the
Account
I
can
give
you
is
,
that
when
we
recover'd
our
senses
,
we
perceiv'd
that
the
Lightning
had
left
a
thick
and
black
Smoak
,
accompany'd
with
a
sulphureous
and
noisom
Stench
,
that
wou'd
have
kill●d
us
if
it
had
lasted
a
quarter
of
an
Hour
;
but
it
was
dissipated
in
a
Moment
.
We
found
also
that
we
were
remov'd
from
the
places
where
we
were
when
the
Lightning
fell
;
which
Change
,
doubtless
,
proceeded
from
the
violent
Motion
and
Agitation
of
the
Ship
.
Among
the
rest
,
one
of
the
Ship-Boys
who
lay
sculking
in
the
Fore-Castle
,
was
thrown
upon
the
Hatches
in
the
other
end
of
the
Ship
,
and
so
bruis'd
,
and
black
with
Contusions
,
(
tho'
I
may
say
more
properly
,
that
there
was
only
one
Contusion
,
which
cover'd
his
whole
Body
)
that
we
have
still
reason
to
doubt
of
his
Recovery
.
The
Mariners
concluded
that
the
Devil
was
the
Author
of
all
these
Disorders
,
and
that
there
was
some
Person
in
the
Company
under
a
Sentence
of
Excommunication
:
For
(
you
know
)
extraordinary
Accidents
are
usually
esteem'd
Miracles
by
the
superstitious
Vulgar
.
'T
is
true
,
the
throwing
of
the
Boy
so
far
may
at
the
first
View
seem
to
be
above
the
Power
of
Nature
;
but
an
attentive
Considerer
will
not
be
much
surpriz'd
at
this
Effect
of
the
Tempest
,
since
this
is
not
the
first
time
that
a
Hurricane
has
snatch'd
up
Men
,
and
even
whole
Ships
.
This
puts
me
in
mind
of
a
Story
almost
of
the
same
Nature
,
which
I
heard
at
Guernsey
,
a
little
Island
,
subject
to
the
Crown
of
England
.
It
happen'd
one
Day
,
that
during
a
violent
Storm
,
a
Flash
of
Lightning
set
fire
to
the
Powder
in
the
Castle
,
and
blew
it
up
,
with
the
whole
Garrison
.
Only
Ten
or
Twelve
Persons
escap'd
,
among
whom
the
Governour
had
the
good
fortune
to
be
preserv'd
in
a
very
singular
manner
:
They
assur'd
me
that
he
was
carry'd
thro'
the
Air
in
his
Bed
,
and
laid
down
upon
the
Castle
Wall
,
the
Foot
of
which
is
bath'd
by
the
Sea
;
and
that
not
knowing
how
to
get
down
,
because
the
Wall
was
equally
steep
on
both
sides
,
he
remain'd
there
till
the
Weather
began
to
grow
calm
,
and
then
made
signs
to
the
People
of
the
Town
,
who
came
to
his
Assistance
.
This
furious
Tempest
was
succeeded
by
pretty
fair
Weather
,
which
we
enjoy'd
during
the
rest
of
our
Voyage
to
Malta
,
where
we
arriv'd
six
Days
after
,
and
in
nine
Days
from
Leghorn
;
so
that
we
made
above
a
hundred
Miles
a
Day
,
for
the
distance
betwixt
these
two
Places
amounts
to
about
a
Thousand
Miles
.
We
had
no
reason
to
complain
of
the
slowness
of
our
Passage
,
tho
'
we
might
have
perform'd
the
Voyage
much
sooner
if
the
Wind
had
been
constantly
favourable
:
For
the
Captain
assur'd
me
,
that
the
Great
Master
of
Malta
,
having
sent
an
express
to
Aix
in
Provence
,
the
Ship
on
which
the
Messenger
embark'd
,
met
with
so
strong
an
Easterly
Wind
,
that
she
was
carry'd
nine
hundred
Miles
in
three
Days
,
and
arriv'd
at
the
Port
of
Marseilles
,
where
finding
another
Ship
ready
to
set
sail
for
Malta
,
he
took
Post
for
Aix
,
and
having
dispatch'd
his
Business
,
return'd
the
same
Night
to
Marseilles
,
where
he
embark'd
in
that
Vessel
,
which
immediately
set
sail
with
a
most
favourable
Westerly
Gale
,
and
in
three
Days
arriv'd
at
Malta
:
So
that
in
Seven
Days
he
perform'd
a
Voyage
of
eighteen
hundred
Miles
,
travell'd
ten
Leagues
by
Land
,
and
dispatch'd
his
Affairs
.
I
must
confess
few
Travellers
are
so
fortunate
;
but
that
which
happens
rarely
may
happen
sometimes
.
This
Island
was
of
old
call'd
Melita
;
and
its
present
Name
is
an
Abbreviation
or
Corruption
of
the
former
:
It
lies
in
the
thirty
fourth
Degree
of
North
Latitude
,
being
seventy
Miles
in
compass
,
twenty
five
long
,
and
ten
broad
.
Under
the
Reign
of
Augustus
,
and
long
before
,
't
was
govern'd
by
its
own
Kings
,
from
whom
it
was
taken
by
the
Saracens
,
who
afterwards
lost
it
to
the
Christians
.
In
the
Year
1530
,
Charles
V.
erected
it
into
a
Sovereignty
,
which
he
bestow'd
on
the
Knights
of
S.
John
,
who
eight
Years
before
were
driven
out
of
Rhodes
by
the
Turks
,
and
had
till
then
●rov'd
as
Pyrates
upon
the
Sea
.
The
Conditions
of
the
Donation
were
,
That
the
Nomination
of
the
Bishop
shou'd
belong
to
him
;
That
the
Knights
shou'd
present
him
Yearly
with
a
Falcon
,
as
a
Mark
of
Homage
;
and
that
they
shou'd
not
receive
into
their
Ports
any
Ships
or
Vessels
at
Enmity
with
the
Crown
of
Spain
,
which
they
punctually
observe
to
this
Day
.
But
the
Spaniard
has
no
reason
to
boast
of
this
Custom
as
a
peculiar
Mark
of
Honour
or
Acknowledgment
,
since
his
Ships
meet
with
the
same
Treatment
with
those
of
other
Princes
,
and
are
never
admitted
into
the
Harbours
of
this
Island
.
I
'm
so
loth
to
send
you
an
imperfect
Account
of
this
Place
,
that
I
cannot
forbear
taking
notice
of
the
famous
Siege
which
it
suffer'd
Ann.
1565.
tho'
I
cannot
reasonably
suppose
you
to
be
ignorant
of
a
Transaction
that
made
so
great
a
Noise
in
the
World
.
Sultan
Solyman
,
resolving
to
extirpate
the
whole
Order
,
sent
a
formidable
Army
against
'em
,
under
the
command
of
Sinan
Bassa
,
who
possess'd
himself
of
the
Island
,
burnt
the
Villages
,
made
the
Inhabitants
Slaves
,
and
destroy'd
the
whole
Country
with
Fire
and
Sword
.
But
the
Castle
of
S.
Angelo
put
a
Stop
to
his
Fury
,
and
resisted
all
his
Attacks
,
till
upon
the
News
of
the
approach
of
the
powerful
Aids
sent
by
the
Christian
Princes
,
he
was
forc'd
to
make
a
disorderly
Retreat
,
leaving
two
great
pieces
of
Cannon
,
one
of
which
lies
at
the
bottom
of
the
Water
in
the
Port
;
and
the
other
under
the
Baraque
of
Italy
,
commonly
call
d
,
The
great
Basilisk
,
and
carrying
120
pound
Ball.
The
next
Year
the
Great
Master
,
de
la
Valette
,
laid
the
Foundation
of
the
New
City
,
and
call'd
it
by
his
own
Name
.
I
may
venture
to
say
,
without
an
Hyperbole
,
that
this
is
the
strongest
City
in
the
World
:
I
never
saw
so
many
,
nor
better
contriv'd
Works
;
and
besides
,
the
Strength
of
the
Place
is
very
considerably
augmented
by
the
Advantages
of
its
Situation
;
for
all
the
Half-Moons
and
Bastions
are
cut
out
of
the
Rock
,
as
well
as
the
Counterscarp
that
defends
'em
;
and
the
Ditches
,
which
in
some
places
are
sixty
Foot
deep
,
and
proportionably
broad
.
The
Castle
of
S.
Angelo
is
in
the
Old
City
,
which
is
separated
from
the
other
by
a
double
Port
,
consisting
of
two
Harbours
,
divided
by
a
Neck
of
Land
,
which
have
but
one
Mouth
.
At
the
end
of
this
Isthmus
stands
the
Castle
of
S.
Elm
,
defending
the
Entry
of
both
Ports
,
in
one
of
which
the
Ships
that
arrive
are
oblig'd
to
perform
their
Quarantain
,
having
the
conveniency
of
a
little
Island
,
which
serves
as
a
Lazaretto
for
the
Passengers
and
their
Goods
.
On
the
other
side
is
the
great
Harbour
,
frequented
by
those
who
are
permitted
to
converse
with
the
Inhabitants
.
Both
these
Harbours
are
safe
and
convenient
;
but
the
Entry
is
extremely
dangerous
,
by
reason
of
the
Rocks
that
lie
hid
under
the
Water
.
The
New
City
,
call'd
Valette
,
is
seated
partly
on
the
Top
,
and
partly
on
the
Declivity
of
a
rising
Ground
,
descending
to
the
Shoar
.
The
Streets
are
streight
,
running
in
parallel
Lines
both
thro'
the
Length
and
Breadth
of
the
City
,
and
are
so
contriv●d
,
that
the
Ascent
is
only
discernable
in
four
or
five
,
the
rest
being
exactly
level
.
The
Houses
are
generally
fair
,
built
after
the
Italian
Fashion
,
with
Platforms
on
the
Top
;
so
that
the
Sketch
of
the
New
City
resembles
perfectly
a
Rectilinear
Amphitheatre
.
The
Old
City
is
not
so
beautiful
,
and
is
at
present
only
inhabited
by
the
Common
People
;
yet
't
is
the
Seat
of
the
Bishop
and
his
Chapter
,
which
may
vie
with
any
Society
of
that
Nature
in
Italy
,
being
compos'd
of
four
and
twenty
Canons
,
who
wear
the
Episcopal
Habit
,
and
have
each
a
Thousand
Crowns
a
Year
.
There
is
but
one
publick
Place
or
Square
in
the
City
Valette
,
which
is
considerable
for
its
Beauty
,
adorn'd
with
a
Fountain
in
the
middle
,
the
Water
of
which
falling
into
a
Basket
of
Stone
so
artificially
cut
,
that
it
seems
to
be
transparent
,
makes
one
of
the
pleasantest
Cascades
in
the
World
.
The
Front
of
the
Great
Master's
Palace
makes
one
intire
side
of
the
Square
.
There
is
nothing
admirable
either
in
the
Inside
or
Outside
of
this
Structure
;
't
is
of
a
Square
Figure
,
and
separated
from
the
Neighbouring
Buildings
by
four
Streets
.
'T
is
divided
into
the
Winter
and
Summer
Apartments
:
The
first
,
which
is
the
most
ancient
and
least
beautiful
,
is
painted
throughout
with
the
Representations
of
Victories
obtain'd
over
the
Turks
,
and
particularly
the
raising
of
the
Siege
of
Malta
,
accompany'd
with
Explanatory
Inscriptions
.
The
Summer
Apartment
was
built
by
the
late
Great
Master
,
Vignacourt
,
who
beautify●d
Malta
with
so
many
Ornaments
,
and
wou'd
have
certainly
made
this
a
very
Magnificent
Palace
,
if
Death
had
not
interrupted
his
Designs
.
That
which
is
chiefly
remarkable
in
it
is
the
Hall
of
Arms
,
where
there
are
30000
Muskets
,
as
many
Bandaliers
,
10000
Cuirasses
and
Helmets
,
with
a
proportionable
Number
of
Swords
,
Pikes
,
Pistols
,
and
Scimitars
,
all
rank'd
in
the
finest
Order
imaginable
.
There
is
an
incredible
number
of
cast
Pieces
of
Cannon
in
this
City
;
for
tho'
I
never
reckon'd
'em
my self
,
I
'm
assur'd
by
Persons
of
unquestion'd
Credit
,
that
there
are
1060
,
and
all
of
a
considerable
bigness
.
The
Churches
of
Malta
are
incomparably
beautiful
,
the
Italian
Neatness
reigns
throughout
,
and
they
are
every
where
adorn'd
with
Painting
and
Gilding
.
The
principal
Church
is
dedicated
to
S.
John
Baptist
,
the
Patron
of
the
Order
:
The
Prospect
of
it
is
not
very
pleasant
;
but
to
make
amends
for
the
Defects
of
the
Outside
,
I
never
saw
any
thing
that
cou'd
with
Justice
be
compar'd
to
the
Richness
and
Beauty
of
the
Inside
.
'T
is
as
light
as
an
open
Field
,
and
all
its
Ornaments
appear
with
so
unclouded
a
Lustre
,
and
so
charm
the
Eye
of
the
Spectatour
,
that
I
believe
never
any
Man
came
out
of
it
without
Reluctancy
.
'T
is
pav'd
throughout
with
large
pieces
of
black
and
white
Marble
:
The
Walls
and
Columns
are
lin'd
to
the
very
Cornices
,
with
curious
Wainscotting
,
which
hardly
obstructs
the
Sight
;
and
the
Life
of
S.
John
is
painted
in
Fresco
,
on
the
Vault
,
by
the
Hand
of
the
Chevalier
Mathias
.
But
the
finest
Work
of
that
Nature
in
the
Church
is
the
beheading
of
the
Holy
Baptist
,
represented
in
a
Chapel
of
the
same
Name
,
by
the
Hand
of
Michael
Angelo
;
this
Picture
was
presented
to
the
Order
by
one
of
the
Dukes
of
Florence
,
and
may
be
reckon'd
a
very
considerable
Complement
,
since
the
Princes
of
that
Family
are
seldom
wont
to
part
with
such
rare
and
beautiful
Pieces
.
The
many
and
magnificent
Epitaphs
of
the
Great
Masters
,
and
Grand
Crosses
,
with
their
Scutcheons
,
are
none
of
the
least
remarkable
Ornaments
of
this
Church
;
and
among
the
rest
,
the
Great
Master
Vignacourt's
Epitaph
is
extremely
beautiful
.
Every
one
of
the
Seven
Languages
has
a
peculiar
Chapel
in
this
Church
,
which
they
strive
to
adorn
in
Emulation
of
one
another
.
There
is
not
a
Church
in
the
World
where
Vessels
of
Gold
and
Silver
are
more
common
than
in
this
.
Among
other
curious
Works
,
there
are
two
Angels
of
the
last
of
these
Metals
,
as
big
as
the
Life
:
But
the
most
finish'd
Piece
is
a
golden
Sun
of
Filagram-Work
,
to
receive
the
Holy
Sacrament
,
of
which
the
Workmanship
alone
cost
2000
Crowns
.
The
Treasury
is
so
full
of
Relicks
,
that
't
wou'd
be
an
endless
Labour
to
describe
●em
;
and
therefore
I
shall
only
tell
you
,
that
the
finest
Piece
I
saw
in
it
is
the
Bishop's
Mitre
,
set
all
over
with
the
richest
Jewels
.
The
Great
Altar
in
the
Nave
is
esteem'd
one
of
the
most
magnificent
Works
of
that
Nature
in
Europe
:
It
stands
by
it self
,
after
the
Modern
Fashion
,
like
that
of
Strasburg
,
which
it
exceeds
both
in
Largeness
and
Richness
.
I
saw
the
Grand
Prior
of
the
Order
say
Mass
here
in
Ceremony
,
and
after
the
same
manner
as
the
Pope
does
at
Rome
.
His
Habit
is
not
different
from
that
of
a
Bishop
;
but
he
is
serv'd
by
eight
Deacons
and
Sub-Deacons
,
with
a
great
deal
of
State
and
Ceremony
.
The
place
where
he
sits
while
the
Epistles
and
Gospels
are
read
,
is
on
the
Right-hand
as
you
go
to
the
Altar
,
and
directly
opposite
to
the
Great
Master
,
who
sits
in
an
arm'd
Chair
on
the
Left-hand
,
unde
a
Canopy
,
two
Pages
standing
behind
to
serve
him
.
The
Grand
Crosses
are
seated
in
the
middle
of
the
Nave
,
on
a
double
Row
of
Benches
,
with
Rails
or
Backs
,
which
enclose
the
place
.
The
Bailiffs
and
Commanders
are
plac'd
on
the
Seats
behind
;
and
the
rest
of
the
Knights
sit
either
in
the
Chapels
belonging
to
their
Language
,
or
in
any
other
part
of
the
Church
.
To
return
to
their
manner
of
Officiating
;
I
observ'd
two
Ceremonies
I
had
never
seen
before
,
since
they
are
Marks
of
Respect
that
are
only
show'd
to
the
Pope
:
For
there
are
two
Clerks
who
fan
the
Grand
Prior's
Head
and
Face
all
the
while
he
says
Mass
,
with
two
large
Fans
of
Ostridge
Feathers
;
and
after
he
has
done
,
he
sits
down
in
his
Chair
,
and
the
same
Clerks
coming
in
their
Surplices
,
undress
him
from
Head
to
Foot
,
pulling
off
even
his
Slippers
.
The
Prior
is
one
of
the
most
considerable
Officers
of
the
Order
,
and
is
rank'd
before
the
Grand
Crosses
,
and
immediately
after
the
Bishop
and
Great
Master
,
who
only
preceed
him
,
tho'
he
is
not
chosen
out
of
the
Classis
of
Noble
Knights
.
The
present
Possessour
of
this
Dignity
is
a
Native
of
Aix
in
Provence
,
and
is
a
Person
of
Merit
,
tho'
of
mean
Birth
.
Since
I
have
insensibly
enter'd
upon
this
Subject
,
I
shall
take
this
occasion
to
acquaint
you
with
the
various
Degrees
and
Dignities
of
these
Knights
;
but
you
must
only
expect
a
general
Idea
of
the
Order
,
and
I
believe
you
desire
no
more
.
The
usual
Title
of
these
Knights
is
of
no
older
date
than
their
Settlement
in
this
Island
;
for
according
to
their
Institution
they
ought
to
be
call'd
Knights
of
S.
John
of
Jerusalem
.
The
Design
of
the
Foundation
was
for
Hospitality
,
and
for
the
Relief
and
Assistance
of
the
poor
Pilgrims
who
came
from
all
the
parts
of
the
World
to
visit
the
Holy
Places
.
At
first
the
Order
was
compos'd
of
Persons
of
mean
Rank
or
Quality
,
living
under
a
Superiour
,
call'd
Gerard
,
a
Frenchman
by
birth
,
who
had
built
a
Hospital
in
the
same
Place
where
they
pretend
Zacharias
us'd
to
perform
his
Devotions
,
and
dedicated
it
to
S.
John
Baptist
.
This
Gerard
,
who
may
be
reckon'd
the
Founder
of
the
Order
,
was
a
Man
of
a
very
Holy
Life
,
and
spent
his
time
in
doing
all
the
Offices
of
Hospitality
,
according
to
his
Profession
.
'T
is
said
,
that
he
carry'd
Bread
every
Night
to
the
Christian
Army
,
when
Jerusalem
was
besieg'd
by
Godfrey
of
Bouillon
;
and
that
being
suspected
,
he
was
narrowly
observ'd
,
and
at
last
surpriz'd
in
the
very
act
.
Immediately
he
was
seiz'd
,
and
carry'd
before
the
Governour
,
with
a
Burthen
of
Loaves
,
which
were
miraculously
chang'd
into
Stones
when
his
Accusers
began
to
take
'em
out
of
the
Bag
;
so
that
he
was
fully
acquitted
.
Sometime
after
,
Godfrey
having
taken
the
Town
,
was
not
unmindful
of
his
Benefactour
;
he
caress●d
him
,
and
wrote
in
his
Favour
to
Pope
Paschal
II.
who
confirm'd
him
and
his
Religious
Company
in
the
Exercise
of
their
Pious
Occupations
,
by
a
Bu●
I
granted
for
that
purpose
,
and
dated
Octob.
19.
1113
,
ordaining
that
after
Gerard's
Death
,
the
Rectors
shou'd
be
elected
by
the
Members
of
the
Society
.
By
Virtue
of
this
Bull
,
they
made
choice
of
one
Roger
for
their
second
Rector
,
whom
they
afterwards
honour'd
with
the
Title
of
Master
:
'
I
was
he
who
contriv'd
and
establish
d
the
Statutes
of
the
Order
,
and
made
his
Society
take
up
Arms
against
the
Infidels
:
He
order
d
em
to
wear
black
Mantles
of
Camels
Skin
,
in
imitation
of
S.
John●s
Habit
in
the
Wilderness
;
to
which
he
added
a
white
Cross
with
eight
Points
,
to
denote
the
Eight
Beatitudes
.
This
Habit
is
clos
d
at
the
Neck
,
and
has
two
Sleeves
ending
in
a
Point
,
which
are
thrown
backwards
,
that
the
Knights
may
more
conveniently
serve
and
assist
sick
Persons
.
'T
is
not
much
different
from
that
with
which
Esculap●us
is
cloath'd
,
in
Ancient
Paintings
.
This
Institution
was
confirm
d
by
the
Popes
,
Gelasius
,
Calixtus
II.
and
Honorius
II.
and
afterwards
,
Ann.
1130.
by
Innocent
II.
who
gave
'em
for
Arms
,
Gules
,
a
Cross
Argent
.
Under
Pope
Honorius
the
Pl●beian
Knights
were
not
only
separated
from
the
Nobles
,
but
almost
excluded
out
of
the
Order
,
since
they
were
only
suffer'd
to
remain
in
it
in
the
Quality
of
Chaplains
or
Servants
.
This
is
as
properly
a
Religious
Order
as
that
of
the
Carmelites
,
or
Augustine
Friars
;
and
when
the
Great
Master
writes
to
any
of
the
Knights
,
he
directs
his
Letters
thus
;
For
our
Dear
and
Well-beloved
,
the
Religious
Brother
N
...
Knight
of
the
Order
of
S.
John
.
And
they
are
qualify
d
with
the
same
Title
in
all
Publick
Writings
at
Malta
.
On
the
Day
of
their
Profession
,
they
must
brandish
a
Sword
thrice
,
as
it
were
to
defie
the
Enemies
of
the
Name
of
Christ
:
Afterwards
they
take
the
Vows
of
Poverty
,
Chastity
,
and
Obedience
.
In
performance
of
the
First
,
they
live
in
the
Inns
of
their
respective
Languages
,
enjoying
all
things
in
Common
,
and
the
Order
inherits
their
Estates
:
The
Second
hinders
'em
from
Marrying
;
and
the
Third
obliges
'em
to
come
to
Malta
as
often
as
their
Appearance
is
requir'd
by
the
Great
Master
,
and
to
obey
all
his
Orders
by
Virtue
of
their
Holy
Obedience
.
Thus
they
content
themselves
with
a
seeming
Performance
of
these
Vows
,
but
their
Practice
is
not
in
the
least
answerable
to
their
Profession
:
For
,
in
the
first
place
,
their
Poverty
wou'd
satisfie
my
largest
Desires
,
since
most
of
'em
receive
considerable
Pensions
from
their
Relations
,
besides
Eighty
Crowns
a
Year
from
their
respective
Inns
,
which
may
be
reckon'd
a
very
comfortable
Maintenance
.
Nor
are
they
more
religious
Observers
of
their
Second
Vow
;
they
are
just
as
Chast
as
my self
,
and
I
know
not
what
they
can
pretend
to
enjoy
in
Common
but
Women
,
whom
they
have
so
well
accustom'd
to
that
way
of
living
,
that
a
Faithful
Wife
is
a
very
scarce
Commodity
in
Malta
.
And
as
for
the
last
Vow
,
if
Obedience
consist
in
Grimaces
,
they
are
certainly
the
most
Obedient
Gentlemen
in
the
World
;
but
if
,
for
Example
,
the
Great
Master
shou'd
take
a
Fancy
to
recall
the
Chevalier
de
Noailles
,
I
question
very
much
whether
he
wou'd
obey
the
Summons
.
To
conclude
,
I
cannot
give
you
a
juster
Character
of
'em
,
than
in
their
own
Words
;
They
are
only
Poor
when
a
Curtesan
demands
her
Fees
;
Obedient
at
Table
,
where
they
are
always
invited
to
Eat
and
Drink
heartily
;
and
Chast
at
Church
,
which
is
their
greatest
Penance
.
The
Order
is
compos'd
of
four
different
Classes
;
or
rather
there
is
only
one
,
which
tolerates
the
rest
out
of
Charity
.
The
first
is
that
of
the
Noble
Knights
,
who
before
their
Admission
must
prove
their
Nobility
in
the
presence
of
certain
Commissioners
,
who
are
sent
to
examine
their
Pedigree
upon
the
Place
.
They
wear
a
Cross
of
Gold
enamell'd
,
hanging
at
one
of
their
Button-Holes
,
as
you
have
doubtless
observ'd
in
France
.
The
Second
is
the
Class
of
Priests
,
who
for
the
most
part
are
not
noble
,
yet
wear
a
Cross
,
as
the
first
.
The
Third
is
that
of
the
Serving
Knights
,
who
are
not
Noble
,
and
only
wear
a
Cross
of
white
Sattin
sow'd
upon
their
Iustaucor
,
and
of
a
different
Figure
from
that
of
the
Nobles
.
The
Fourth
and
last
is
compos'd
of
the
Great
Master's
Menial
Servants
,
or
of
some
indigent
Persons
,
to
whom
he
grants
that
Favour
,
which
brings
'em
no
other
Advantage
than
the
usual
Salary
of
fourscore
Crowns
;
and
their
Cross
is
like
that
of
the
Serving
Knights
.
Of
all
the
Four
Classes
,
the
first
only
can
aspire
to
the
Dignities
of
the
Order
,
that
is
,
to
the
Title
and
Office
of
Commanders
,
Grand
Crosses
,
and
Great
Master
.
The
two
first
are
given
in
Order
,
according
to
their
Seniority
;
for
the
oldest
Knights
are
in
Course
promoted
to
be
Commanders
,
and
the
oldest
Commanders
to
be
Grand
Crosses
.
But
the
Office
of
Great
Master
is
only
obtain
d
by
Election
,
without
the
least
regard
to
Seniority
;
so
that
frequently
a
simple
Commander
is
preferr'd
before
all
the
Grand
Crosses
.
The
Grand
Crosses
are
so
call'd
from
a
large
Cross
of
white
Sattin
,
that
covers
their
whole
Breast
,
from
their
first
Button-Hole
to
the
Belly
.
'T
is
sew'd
upon
a
kind
of
Sleeveless
Vest
,
meeting
on
the
side
,
which
in
Winter
is
made
of
black
Cloth
,
and
in
Summer
of
Silk
.
All
the
rest
of
the
Knights
wear
a
red
Vest
of
the
same
Fashion
when
they
go
to
War
,
but
the
Cross
is
white
,
and
of
the
same
Figure
with
that
which
they
wear
at
their
Button-Holes
;
but
the
Cross
of
the
Serving
Knights
is
of
a
Circular
Figure
.
All
the
Employments
and
Offices
of
Honour
and
Profit
are
at
the
Disposal
of
the
Great
Master
,
who
is
oblig'd
to
chuse
one
of
the
Nobles
:
But
there
are
few
even
of
that
Classis
who
dare
aspire
to
the
Dignity
of
Captain
of
the
Galleys
,
by
reason
of
the
vast
Charge
that
attends
it
,
since
the
Order
only
allows
him
a
Set
of
Plate
,
which
he
must
restore
when
he
quits
that
Employment
.
But
to
make
amends
for
that
Inconveniency
,
the
Captains
of
the
Galleys
are
soon
after
promoted
to
a
Commandery
;
for
tho'
I
told
you
that
these
Places
are
usually
given
to
the
Senior
Knights
,
yet
there
are
a
considerable
Number
of
'em
at
the
Great
Master●s
disposal
,
who
bestows
'em
on
his
Favourites
.
These
are
call'd
Commanderies
of
Grace
,
or
Favour
,
which
exclude
not
the
Possessors
of
'em
from
enjoying
the
Commanderies
that
fall
to
'em
by
right
of
Seniority
:
And
besides
,
there
are
certain
particular
Offices
belonging
to
each
Language
,
such
as
that
of
Treasurer
,
Master
of
the
Artillery
,
&c.
The
Three
Sovereign
Jurisdictions
of
Malta
belong
to
the
College
of
the
Grand
Crosses
.
The
First
is
the
Great
Council
,
compos'd
of
all
the
Members
of
the
College
:
The
Second
is
the
Council
of
the
Treasury
;
and
the
Third
of
the
Marine
,
or
Admiralty
;
consisting
each
of
three
Members
.
Besides
,
the
Great
Master
chuses
every
Year
a
Captain
of
the
Verga
,
who
must
be
a
Native
of
Malta
,
and
consequently
no
Knight
:
His
Office
is
to
administer
Justice
to
the
Inhabitants
of
the
City
and
Country
.
This
right
of
Seniority
which
gives
a
Title
to
the
Offices
of
Commanders
and
Grand
Crosses
,
is
a
great
Mortification
to
those
who
are
not
made
Knights
in
their
Youth
:
And
therefore
they
who
design
to
obtain
that
Dignity
for
their
Children
,
procure
'em
to
be
receiv'd
into
the
Order
as
soon
as
they
are
born
,
that
they
may
not
wait
too
long
for
Preferrment
.
In
the
mean
time
,
those
who
have
no
Estates
live
in
their
respective
Inns
,
of
which
every
Language
has
one
.
The
Seven
Languages
are
those
of
Provence
,
Auvergne
,
France
,
Italy
,
Arragon
,
Germany
,
and
Castile
.
Over
every
Language
there
is
a
Grand
Cross
,
to
whom
the
Order
allows
eighty
Crowns
for
each
Man
.
The
Members
of
the
Second
Class
serve
at
the
Altar
,
and
are
only
capable
of
Ecclesiastical
Preferment
:
Thus
they
may
obtain
the
Offices
of
Vicars
,
Canons
,
and
Grand
Prior
,
which
is
the
highest
Dignity
within
the
reach
of
their
Ambition
.
The
Serving
Knights
are
incapable
of
being
promoted
to
the
Dignity
of
a
Grand
Cross
,
or
of
enjoying
a
Commandery
by
right
of
Seniority
;
but
they
may
possess
Commanderies
of
Grace
,
which
the
Great
Master
sometimes
bestows
on
'em
,
either
as
a
particular
Mark
of
his
Kindness
,
or
as
a
Reward
of
their
Valour
.
They
may
rigg
out
Privateers
under
the
Banner
of
the
Order
;
but
none
of
this
Classis
can
be
made
Captain
of
the
Galleys
,
since
the
Noble
Knights
wou'd
not
submit
to
his
Authority
.
As
for
the
Great
Master's
Knights
,
who
compose
the
Fourth
Class
,
they
receive
no
other
Honour
or
Advantage
by
their
Admission
into
the
Order
,
but
a
Salary
of
Eighty
Crowns
a
Year
,
and
the
Title
of
Knights
of
S.
John
.
To
these
Four
Classes
I
might
add
a
Fifth
,
I
mean
the
Knights
of
the
Holy
Sepulchre
,
who
wear
a
Cross
of
Gold
Potency
;
but
since
they
are
not
acknowledg'd
by
the
Knights
of
Malta
,
and
have
no
other
Patents
than
what
they
receive
from
the
Fathers
Observants
,
who
are
at
present
Guardians
of
the
Sepulchre
,
I
will
not
trouble
you
with
a
farther
Account
of
'em
.
Having
given
you
a
general
Idea
of
the
Four
Classes
,
and
of
all
the
inferiour
Offices
,
I
shall
in
the
next
place
proceed
to
consider
the
Supreme
Dignity
of
the
Order
.
The
Great
,
Master
is
very
careful
to
preserve
the
Respect
due
to
his
Character
,
and
seldom
Converses
familiarly
with
the
Knights
,
nor
even
with
the
Grand
Crosses
.
When
he
goes
to
Church
,
all
the
Knights
whom
he
meets
in
the
Square
,
and
by
the
Way
,
join
in
his
Train
;
and
when
he
returns
they
make
a
double
File
,
thro'
which
he
passes
.
All
the
Officers
of
his
Houshold
are
Noble
Knights
,
even
the
very
Pages
,
of
whom
he
entertains
twenty
four
.
His
principal
Officers
are
the
Master
of
the
Horse
,
the
Major
Domo
,
and
the
High
Chamberlain
.
The
present
Great
Master
is
descended
from
the
Illustrious
House
of
Caraffa
:
He
is
a
large
and
thick
Man
,
of
a
good
Mien
,
but
very
old
:
He
keeps
a
Table
for
a
hundred
Knights
,
whom
he
chuses
to
be
partakers
of
his
Bounty
,
and
who
by
that
means
may
save
the
Pension
they
receive
from
the
Order
.
The
Habits
of
the
Knights
are
very
different
at
Malta
:
The
French
,
Italians
,
and
Spaniards
retaining
the
Modes
of
their
respective
Nations
.
The
Garb
of
the
last
is
so
odd
,
that
I
cannot
forbear
giving
you
some
Account
of
it
:
They
wear
a
Doublet
slit
before
and
behind
,
and
the
Sleeves
are
also
slit
,
and
close
at
the
Wrists
;
an
old-fashion'd
Collar
,
narrow
Breeches
fasten'd
with
Buttons
;
and
,
in
a
Word
,
I
cou'd
not
chuse
a
more
Comical
Habit
if
I
were
going
to
act
the
Spaniard
in
a
Mask
.
The
Italians
are
dress'd
exactly
like
so
many
Scaramouchi●s
.
The
Order
takes
care
to
preserve
some
external
Marks
of
Hospitality
,
which
,
as
I
told
you
,
was
the
Design
of
their
Institution
:
They
keep
a
Magnificent
Hospital
,
endow'd
with
a
Revenue
of
50000
Livres
.
The
Commandery
of
it
belongs
to
the
French
Language
,
and
is
one
of
the
principal
Offices
of
the
Order
:
The
Magnificence
of
the
Structure
does
not
appear
on
the
Outside
,
but
the
Apartments
are
very
fine
.
There
are
five
Halls
,
capable
of
containing
four
hundred
sick
Persons
,
who
are
serv'd
by
the
Knights
when
they
Eat
or
Drink
,
the
Servants
of
the
Hospital
taking
care
of
the
rest
.
The
Vessels
are
generally
of
Silver
;
the
Beds
are
good
,
and
the
Linen
is
chang'd
pretty
often
.
And
besides
,
the
diseas'd
are
so
plentifully
furnish'd
with
all
things
that
are
proper
for
their
Entertainment
and
Cure
,
that
the
Knights
themselves
scruple
not
to
lodge
here
when
they
are
sick
.
'T
is
true
,
they
are
not
laid
in
the
same
Rooms
with
so
many
dead
and
dying
Persons
,
whose
Company
alone
wou'd
infect
the
soundest
Man
in
the
World
with
their
Distempers
:
For
they
lie
in
separate
Halls
,
and
are
serv'd
apart
.
Catholicks
of
all
Nations
,
without
exception
,
are
receiv'd
into
the
Hospital
;
but
these
Acts
of
Charity
are
not
very
Chargeable
to
the
Order
,
since
their
Guests
are
seldom
very
Numerous
.
These
few
Observations
may
suffice
to
give
you
an
Idea
of
the
Order
of
Malta
.
My
next
shall
contain
an
Account
of
the
Island
in
general
,
and
of
the
Manners
and
Customs
of
its
Inhabitants
:
In
the
mean
time
I
wish
you
good
Night
,
and
am
,
SIR
,
Your
&c.
Malta
,
June
1690.
LETTER
XI
.
SIR
,
MAlta
is
so
low
an
Island
that
't
is
scarce
discernible
above
twenty
Miles
off
at
Sea
,
even
in
the
clearest
Weather
;
so
that
many
Ships
pass
by
without
perceiving
it
.
There
are
no
Woods
in
it
by
reason
of
the
shallowness
of
the
Ground
;
for
the
whole
Island
is
only
a
dry
Rock
,
which
,
with
much
ado
,
may
be
made
to
produce
something
.
And
the
scarcity
of
Earth
makes
it
so
precious
,
that
if
a
Man
were
found
stealing
it
out
of
his
Neighbours
Grounds
,
he
wou'd
be
punish'd
with
the
utmost
Severity
.
The
only
Trees
that
grow
there
are
Oranges
,
Citrons
,
Apricocks
,
Peaches
,
and
Pomgranates
,
which
require
no
great
depth
of
Earth
;
and
even
these
grow
only
in
certain
parts
of
the
Island
,
the
rest
being
planted
with
Vines
,
which
bear
a
very
delicious
Grape
:
There
are
also
Strawberries
,
Pastaiques
,
and
excellent
Figs
,
and
a
prodigious
quantity
of
the
best
M●lo●s
in
the
World
,
which
we
eat
as
often
as
we
please
:
They
are
almost
all
white
,
but
sweet
as
Sugar
,
and
melt
in
the
Mouth
.
The
Pastaique
is
a
Fruit
very
much
resembling
a
Citrul
,
but
not
quite
so
big
.
'T
is
eaten
raw
like
a
Melon
,
and
melts
in
the
Mouth
.
Tho'
it
be
expos'd
a
whole
Day
to
the
Sun-Beams
,
it
remains
as
fresh
as
if
it
had
been
kept
in
Snow
.
There
are
two
sorts
of
it
,
one
red
,
and
the
other
white
:
The
first
is
the
best
;
but
the
Buyer
must
take
'em
at
a
venture
,
as
well
as
Melons
.
'T
is
the
usual
Custom
when
five
or
six
Citizens
meet
on
the
publick
Place
,
to
open
a
Score
of
'em
,
and
those
who
have
the
fortune
to
meet
with
none
but
white
ones
,
are
oblig'd
to
pay
for
the
rest
;
which
they
call
playing
at
Pastaiques
.
Malta
is
hotter
than
Rome
,
or
any
other
place
in
Europe
;
and
the
stifling
Heat
of
the
Climate
is
so
much
the
more
insupportable
,
because
there
are
no
cool
Breezes
to
temper
it
;
and
the
Brow
of
the
Hill
is
expos'd
directly
to
the
South
.
The
Peasants
are
as
black
as
Egyptians
;
for
they
take
no
care
to
preserve
themselves
from
the
Sun
;
and
the
most
scorching
Heat
is
not
able
to
drive
'em
into
their
Houses
,
or
even
make
'em
leave
off
working
.
This
is
an
evident
Demonstration
of
the
Power
of
Nature
in
performing
things
that
seem
to
be
impossible
:
For
there
are
few
things
which
a
Man
may
not
suffer
if
he
be
accustom'd
to
'em
from
his
Infancy
,
as
the
Maltese
are
in
this
case
,
who
inure
the
Bodies
of
their
Children
to
Heat
,
by
making
'em
go
stark
naked
,
without
Shirt
,
Drawers
,
or
Cap
,
as
soon
as
they
are
taken
from
their
Mother
s
Breast
,
to
the
Age
of
Ten
Years
;
so
that
their
Skin
grows
as
hard
as
Leather
.
You
will
easily
perceive
that
I
speak
of
the
Peasants
,
and
Meaner
sort
of
the
Inhabitants
;
for
all
the
rest
cloath
their
Children
as
they
do
in
other
Countries
:
Only
to
preserve
themselves
from
the
Heat
,
they
never
go
abroad
during
the
hottest
part
of
the
Day
;
and
besides
,
they
cloath
themselves
very
slightly
,
and
sleep
from
Noon
till
four
a-clock
.
The
richer
sort
make
use
of
a
kind
of
Fans
,
which
are
very
much
in
fashion
among
Persons
of
Quality
in
Italy
,
I
mean
certain
Machines
hung
at
the
Ceiling
,
about
three
Foot
broad
and
usually
made
of
some
Silk
Stuff
,
stretch●d
upon
small
and
very
thin
Laths
,
surrounded
with
Ostrich-Feathers
.
There
is
also
a
small
silken
Cord
fasten'd
to
it
,
and
drawn
thro'
a
Hole
into
the
Anti-chamber
,
where
a
Servant
is
plac'd
to
keep
the
Machine
playing
by
pulling
the
Cord.
These
Fans
are
usually
hung
over
a
Couch
,
or
Bed
of
Repose
,
where
a
Man
may
lie
and
enjoy
the
Pleasure
of
Fanning
as
long
as
he
pleases
:
And
sometimes
one
of
'em
is
plac'd
on
the
Table
,
both
for
Coolness
,
and
to
drive
away
the
Flies
.
If
you
consider
also
the
Sorbet
,
Straw-berries
,
Raspherries
,
and
all
the
cooling
Waters
us'd
in
Italy
,
you
will
not
blame
me
for
affirming
that
a
Rich
Man
may
live
comfortably
in
any
Climate
,
and
easily
avoid
all
the
Inconveniencies
of
excessive
Heat
or
Cold.
I
need
not
go
farther
than
Malta
for
a
convincing
Proof
of
this
Assertion
;
since
the
violent
Heat
that
reigns
here
serves
only
to
encrease
the
Pleasure
of
being
fann'd
,
and
of
drinking
cold
Liquors
,
with
which
this
Island
is
always
furnish
d
,
tho'
the
Winter
produces
neither
Snow
nor
Ice
:
For
the
Great
Master
takes
care
to
supply
that
defect
,
by
letting
out
the
Sale
of
these
Commodities
by
way
of
Farm
,
to
a
Man
,
who
sends
every
Winter
to
Sicily
for
a
sufficient
quantity
to
fill
the
Ice-Houses
,
and
is
oblig
d
to
furnish
the
Island
all
the
Summer
,
under
pain
of
paying
a
Fine
of
Ten
Crowns
a
Day
,
in
case
of
failure
.
The
Island
of
Malta
is
very
populous
,
and
reckon'd
to
contain
15000
Men
,
who
are
all
divided
into
Companies
.
They
are
oblig'd
to
wear
Swords
,
but
forbidden
to
draw
'em
under
such
rigorous
Penalties
,
that
the
natural
Malice
of
the
Inhabitants
is
very
effectually
curb●d
by
their
Fear
of
Punishment
:
Yet
they
sometimes
venture
to
execute
their
Fury
with
a
little
Poniard
or
Stiletto
,
after
the
Italian
fashion
.
I
cannot
better
express
the
barbarity
of
their
Temper
and
Inclinations
,
than
by
telling
you
,
that
their
Humour
is
not
different
from
that
of
the
Sicilians
,
that
,
like
them
,
they
are
Treacherous
and
Bloody
,
Jealous
even
to
Madness
,
and
capable
of
attempting
the
most
horrid
Villanies
when
they
are
animated
by
that
cruel
Passion
.
To
convince
you
of
the
Justness
of
this
Character
,
't
will
be
sufficient
to
relate
two
Accidents
that
happen'd
very
lately
;
for
the
two
Principle
Actors
are
still
alive
,
and
remain
in
the
Churches
of
St.
Lewis
and
St.
John
,
whither
they
f●ed
,
to
avoid
the
just
Punishment
of
their
Crimes
.
The
first
had
a
young
,
handsom
,
and
loving
Wife
,
yet
(
according
to
the
Custom
of
all
his
Countrymen
,
both
Batchelors
and
marry'd
Men
,
)
he
kept
a
Whore
,
who
possess'd
his
Heart
and
Soul
,
and
was
so
absolutely
the
Mistress
of
his
Affection
,
that
without
regarding
his
Duty
to
his
Wife
,
he
lay
every
Night
at
her
House
.
This
malicious
Woman
made
use
of
the
Power
she
had
over
him
to
irritate
him
against
his
injur'd
Wife
,
telling
him
,
that
he
had
reason
to
suspect
her
Vertue
,
since
he
gave
her
so
many
inviting
Opportunities
of
repaying
him
in
his
own
Coin
;
and
his
guilty
Conscience
prompting
him
to
conclude
that
the
might
be
as
vicious
as
himself
,
he
resolv'd
to
bring
her
along
with
him
every
Night
,
and
made
her
lie
in
the
same
Bed
with
him
and
his
Concubine
,
since
there
was
not
another
in
the
Lodging
.
Judge
,
Sir
,
with
what
Grief
and
Horrour
this
poor
Creature
cou'd
behold
her
due
Benevolence
squander'd
away
upon
an
impudent
Doxey
in
her
presence
;
and
whether
ever
any
Woman
was
so
barbarously
treated
.
'T
is
certainly
the
highest
and
most
cruel
Indignity
that
cou'd
be
put
upon
a
Wife
;
and
there
is
no
Crime
so
inhumane
which
such
a
Husband
wou'd
not
dare
to
commit
.
Thus
she
liv'd
for
above
a
Year
,
till
at
last
her
Patience
being
intirely
exhausted
,
she
was
not
able
any
longer
to
bear
the
insupportable
Torment
of
being
made
the
Spectatour
of
her
own
Shame
and
Misery
;
and
therefore
advis'd
her
Husband
,
since
he
cou'd
not
overcome
his
Passion
,
to
bring
the
Cu●t●san
home
to
his
House
,
where
he
might
enjoy
his
Pleasure
with
more
Conveniency
and
less
Charge
.
This
Advice
was
so
agreeable
to
his
Humour
,
that
he
resolv'd
once
in
his
Life
to
comply
with
her
Desires
:
But
she
had
little
reason
to
be
satisfy'd
with
the
Success
of
her
Proposal
,
for
she
liv'd
in
a
perpetual
Hell
with
her
pityless
Tormentour
,
and
his
insolent
Strumpet
.
But
instead
of
making
a
tedious
Relation
of
all
the
Affronts
they
put
upon
her
,
I
shall
only
acquaint
you
with
the
Tragical
Conclusion
of
the
Story
.
He
had
a
Son
,
about
nine
Years
old
,
who
having
seen
his
Mother
at
Church
speaking
to
one
of
her
Brothers
,
who
was
newly
come
from
Italy
,
and
whom
the
Boy
did
not
know
,
went
immediately
to
tell
his
Father
,
that
his
Mother
was
discoursing
with
a
Stranger
:
And
that
inhumane
Villain
,
without
enquiring
farther
into
the
Matter
,
or
so
much
as
accusing
her
of
her
Crime
,
stabb'd
her
with
his
Poniard
as
soon
as
she
came
home
.
The
other
,
who
retir'd
to
the
Church
of
S.
Lewis
,
was
as
unmerciful
to
his
Whore
as
the
former
was
to
his
Wife
.
He
knew
that
she
intended
to
Marry
,
and
had
often
with
horrible
Threatnings
forbidden
her
to
prosecute
that
Design
.
But
she
was
so
weary
of
her
infamous
way
of
Living
,
that
she
resolv'd
,
notwithstanding
his
repeated
Menaces
,
to
provide
herself
a
Husband
,
and
was
even
actually
engag●d
with
a
certain
Tradesman
.
Her
Gallant
hearing
of
this
new
Intrigue
,
and
having
seen
her
two
or
three
times
talking
with
the
young
Man's
Sister
,
ran
to
her
House
in
a
Transport
of
Fury
,
and
immediately
told
her
,
that
he
was
come
to
kill
her
.
She
being
ignorant
of
the
cause
of
his
Rage
,
and
imagining
that
he
only
intended
to
laugh
at
her
Fear
,
threw
her
Arms
about
his
Neck
,
and
embracing
him
,
And
why
,
my
Heart
,
said
she
,
wou'dst
thou
kill
me
?
Because
thou
art
an
impudent
Where
,
reply'd
he
,
and
wou'dst
Marry
in
spite
of
me
;
but
I
sh●ll
quickly
cure
thy
Longing
:
Immediately
he
stabb'd
her
in
the
Breast
with
his
Poniard
,
and
repeated
the
Blow
four
times
,
till
he
laid
her
dead
upon
the
Spot
.
The
Barbarity
of
these
Murderers
is
so
prodigiously
inhumane
,
that
these
two
Instances
will
give
you
a
livelier
Idea
of
the
Humour
of
this
People
,
than
the
most
pathetic
Description
I
cou●d
make
of
it
.
The
Number
of
the
Curtesans
is
extremely
great
;
their
Trade
is
not
at
all
reputed
scandalous
;
and
when
they
have
earn'd
a
little
Money
,
they
may
Marry
,
and
are
esteem'd
as
honest
Women
as
if
they
had
kept
their
Maidenhead
for
their
Husbands
.
No
Person
whatsoever
dares
offer
'em
the
least
indignity
;
for
they
are
look'd
upon
as
Publick
Persons
that
ought
to
be
Sacred
;
and
there
are
even
some
Ladies
of
Honour
who
disdain
not
their
Acquaintance
and
Society
;
so
that
't
is
not
an
easie
Task
to
distinguish
those
Prostitutes
from
Vertueus
Women
.
The
Curtesans
of
Rome
and
Mal●●
are
beholding
to
the
same
Cause
for
the
Advantageous
Privileges
they
enjoy
:
There
the
Priests
govern
,
and
here
the
Authority
is
lodg'd
in
the
Knights
.
Both
of
'em
have
sworn
Chastity
,
and
neither
of
'em
are
able
to
keep
their
Vows
.
〈◊〉
cannot
forbear
taking
notice
of
a
pretty
odd
Custom
in
this
Place
,
for
the
conveniency
of
Strangers
,
who
having
no
Acquaintance
,
and
for
the
most
part
staying
but
two
or
three
Days
in
the
Island
,
might
be
sometimes
oblig'd
to
leave
it
without
tasting
its
most
delicious
Fruit
:
For
't
is
not
the
Fashion
here
to
visit
Strangers
in
their
Ships
,
as
at
Leghorn
.
Malta
is
a
Land
of
Liberty
,
where
Pleasure
is
not
forc'd
upon
any
Man
:
But
they
who
have
a
mind
to
divert
themselves
,
may
easily
find
a
Play-fellow
by
walking
about
the
Streets
with
a
Sequin
in
their
Hand
,
holding
it
so
that
it
may
be
seen
;
for
this
is
a
never-failing
Signal
,
which
will
procure
'em
twenty
Invitations
in
a
Moment
.
The
Habit
of
the
Women
in
this
Place
is
as
Melancholic
and
Dismal
when
they
go
abroad
,
as
't
is
Wanton
and
Lascivious
when
they
are
at
home
.
In
the
Streets
you
see
nothing
but
a
long
black
Veil
instead
of
a
Woman
,
which
covers
'em
so
intirely
from
Head
to
Foot
,
that
such
a
sight
wou'd
cost
a
Low
Briton
at
least
twenty
Signs
of
the
Cross
:
for
the
Women
in
this
City
look
just
like
so
many
Ghosts
wrapt
in
Shrowds
,
stalking
about
the
Streets
.
But
if
they
are
Ghosts
in
the
Street
,
they
are
Angels
at
home
;
for
tho'
the
Peasants
are
tawny
,
the
Women
who
live
in
the
City
have
the
fairest
Complexions
in
the
World
.
I
can
only
give
you
an
Account
of
their
Summer
Dress
,
since
I
never
had
occasion
to
see
'em
in
the
Winter
.
They
wear
a
fine
White
Smock
,
plaited
at
the
Neck
like
a
Man's
Shirt
;
but
the
Opening
is
so
wide
,
that
it
leaves
their
Shoulders
and
Breasts
intirely
expos'd
to
the
View
of
the
ravish'd
Beholder
:
the
Sleeves
are
very
large
,
and
tuck'd
up
to
the
Neck-band
of
the
Smock
to
which
they
are
fasten'd
with
a
Pin
,
so
that
one
may
see
their
whole
Arms.
This
Smock
is
almost
their
intire
Habit
,
for
they
wear
nothing
above
it
but
a
very
little
Pair
of
Boddice
about
their
Waste
under
their
Breasts
,
which
being
not
above
a
Span
long
,
serves
only
to
set
off
the
Fineness
of
their
Shape
,
and
rather
exposes
than
conceals
those
alluring
Charms
that
strike
the
Eyes
and
Hearts
of
the
Spectator
with
a
sweet
but
irresistible
Violence
.
The
Mens
Habit
is
not
different
from
ours
,
at
least
they
endeavour
as
much
as
they
can
,
to
imitate
it
.
Almost
all
the
Maltese
are
serv'd
by
Slaves
,
who
are
suffer'd
to
walk
freely
about
the
Streets
all
day
,
as
well
as
those
who
belong
to
the
Order
;
but
they
are
all
oblig'd
to
retire
in
the
Evening
to
the
publick
Baths
,
as
at
Leghorn
,
and
if
any
of
'em
shou'd
fail
to
come
at
the
time
appointed
,
he
wou'd
be
put
to
death
as
a
Fugitive
.
The
Galley-Slaves
are
the
most
miserable
Wretches
in
the
World
;
yet
there
are
some
Persons
here
who
have
so
little
regard
to
their
own
Happiness
,
as
to
sell
themselves
for
a
hundred
Crowns
to
the
Order
:
they
continue
Slaves
during
their
whole
Life
without
any
Pay
,
rowing
naked
and
chain'd
as
the
rest
,
without
any
other
Mark
of
Distinction
than
the
Title
of
Bonne
Vogue
,
whereas
the
Turks
are
call'd
Slaves
.
I
know
there
are
also
some
of
these
voluntary
Slaves
at
Venice
,
where
they
are
call'd
Gallioti
,
and
even
the
Republick
finds
less
Difficulty
in
levying
'em
than
in
raising
Soldiers
:
but
they
are
only
engag'd
to
serve
three
Years
on
the
Galleys
,
whereas
the
Bonne
Vogue
at
Malta
are
perpetual
Slaves
,
without
the
least
hope
of
recovering
their
Liberty
.
There
are
only
seven
Galleys
belonging
to
the
Order
,
which
are
sent
every
Year
under
the
Command
of
a
General
to
assist
the
Venetians
.
The
Government
is
constantly
employ'd
about
raising
new
Funds
,
without
which
they
cannot
encrease
the
Number
of
their
Galleys
.
There
are
Three
Languages
spoken
in
the
City
;
the
French
,
Spanish
,
and
Italian
.
The
last
of
these
is
authoriz'd
by
the
Government
,
and
us'd
in
publick
Writings
.
The
Peasants
in
the
Country
speak
a
corrupt
Dialect
of
the
Arabic
:
and
't
wou'd
not
be
an
easie
Task
to
make
'em
leave
it
.
The
Holy
Office
of
the
Inquisition
,
that
dreadful
Tribunal
,
famous
for
its
Injustice
and
Cruelty
,
reigns
more
Tyrannically
here
than
at
Rome
it self
.
I
have
heard
a
hundred
remarkable
Stories
of
its
Barbarity
;
but
I
'm
too
much
your
Friend
to
disturb
the
Tranquillity
of
your
Mind
with
such
dismal
Relations
.
And
therefore
instead
of
entring
on
so
Melancholic
a
Subject
,
I
shall
only
observe
that
Confessors
,
who
in
any
other
Country
would
be
burnt
if
they
should
divulge
the
Secrets
with
which
they
are
intrusted
,
are
oblig'd
here
to
reveal
'em
,
as
often
as
the
Inquisition
is
concern'd
in
the
Discovery
.
'T
is
true
,
they
do
not
own
this
Maxim
,
for
fear
of
spoiling
their
Trade
;
but
the
Truth
of
it
is
too
well
known
to
be
call'd
in
question
:
In
the
mean
time
,
to
prevent
Suspicion
,
they
are
sometimes
silent
for
a
Year
or
two
,
after
which
the
Inquisitor
sends
for
the
Party
accus'd
,
and
asks
him
whether
he
knows
the
reason
why
he
is
brought
before
him
.
Then
must
the
poor
Wretch
call
to
mind
all
that
ever
he
said
;
and
if
he
has
either
forgot
his
Fault
,
or
refuses
to
own
it
,
confiding
in
the
Secrecy
and
Fidelity
of
his
Confessour
,
whom
he
knows
to
be
his
only
Confident
,
he
's
a
dead
Man
,
and
must
not
entertain
the
least
hope
of
Mercy
:
For
they
strangle
him
in
Prison
,
and
some
time
after
tell
his
Relations
that
they
may
forbear
sending
him
Provisions
.
Happy
are
they
who
are
not
subject
to
this
Yoke
!
I
saw
a
Church
,
t'other
day
,
in
which
there
is
a
little
Grotto
,
where
't
is
said
S.
Paul
liv'd
three
Months
:
But
't
is
so
small
,
and
contriv'd
in
such
a
manner
,
that
I
'm
much
enclin'd
to
suspect
the
Truth
of
this
Tradition
.
However
,
every
one
that
comes
,
carries
away
a
piece
of
it
,
as
a
Preservative
against
the
biting
of
Serpents
:
And
they
pretend
that
by
a
perpetual
Miracle
,
the
Rock
is
never
diminish'd
.
I
will
not
dispute
the
Truth
of
the
Matter
of
Fact
,
tho'
I
can
assure
you
that
there
are
visible
Gaps
or
Notches
in
the
Rock
,
and
that
they
still
continue
to
break
off
Pieces
of
it
:
But
supposing
it
to
be
as
big
as
ever
,
I
see
no
reason
why
we
shou'd
have
recourse
to
a
Miracle
on
this
Occasion
,
since
't
is
generally
acknowledg'd
,
that
there
are
some
Rocks
which
grow
naturally
till
they
be
separated
from
their
Roots
:
And
our
Mariners
,
who
are
no
very
able
Philosophers
,
show'd
me
one
in
our
Voyage
hither
,
which
is
commonly
call'd
the
Brothers
;
and
why
may
not
S.
Paul●s
Grotto
be
of
the
same
Nature
.
But
this
is
not
the
only
Miracle
in
Malta
:
They
tell
us
,
that
there
are
no
Serpents
in
the
Island
,
and
wou'd
have
us
believe
that
this
Privilege
was
the
Effect
of
a
Viper's
biting
the
same
Apostle
,
as
you
may
read
in
the
Acts
of
the
Apostles
.
For
my
part
,
I
must
confess
,
I
'm
as
little
satisfy'd
with
this
Sotry
as
with
the
other
;
for
some
Persons
assure
me
that
there
are
Serpents
in
Malta
:
But
supposing
there
were
none
,
I
had
occasion
to
mention
another
Island
in
my
last
,
which
may
boast
of
the
same
Advantage
;
and
why
shou'd
the
Miracle
be
greater
here
than
at
Guernsey
,
where
t
is
certain
there
is
neither
Toad
,
Scorpion
,
nor
any
other
Venomous
Creature
:
And
,
which
adds
to
the
Wonder
,
I
know
that
the
Governour
,
who
is
a
Curious
Person
,
having
order'd
some
of
those
Animals
to
be
brought
to
the
Island
,
they
dy●d
immediately
.
I
'm
confident
if
the
Roman-Catholicks
were
Masters
of
that
Island
,
they
wou●d
make
some
Saint
the
Author
of
this
Privilege
,
which
might
perhaps
be
pretended
with
less
improbability
,
to
be
the
effect
of
a
supernatural
Cause
,
than
at
Malta
,
since
the
Island
of
Jersey
,
which
is
but
seven
Leagues
distant
from
Guernsey
,
is
so
extremely
pester'd
with
Serpents
and
Toads
,
that
the
Houses
are
full
of
'em
,
and
none
of
the
Peasants
dare
lie
upon
the
Ground
.
This
,
I
doubt
not
will
seem
strange
to
you
;
but
you
will
be
stil●
more
surpriz'd
when
I
have
told
you
that
it
rains
Toads
in
this
Island
:
If
you
suspect
the
Truth
of
this
odd
Phaenomenon
,
you
may
receive
a
Confirmation
of
it
from
any
Man
that
has
been
upon
the
Place
.
Nature
is
so
Mysterious
and
Unsearchable
in
her
Operations
,
and
Men
are
generally
so
apt
to
admire
what
they
cannot
comprehend
,
that
their
Inclination
to
ascribe
surprizing
Events
to
supernatural
Causes
,
may
be
justly
reckon'd
an
effect
of
their
Ignorance
.
I
'm
so
fully
persuaded
of
this
Truth
,
that
I
seldom
or
never
take
Notice
of
those
Miracles
that
make
so
great
a
Noise
in
the
Countreys
thro'
which
I
have
occasion
to
pass
:
And
besides
,
since
I
have
reason
to
believe
that
such
Stories
wou'd
not
contribute
much
to
your
Diversion
:
I
'm
resolv'd
to
trouble
you
with
none
of
'em
,
unless
they
be
either
very
extraordinary
,
or
extremely
ridiculous
.
I
hope
my
next
Letter
shall
be
dated
from
Constantinople
,
for
we
intend
to
set
sail
to
Morrow
.
I
am
,
SIR
,
Your
&c.
Malta
,
June
1690.
LETTER
XII
.
SIR
,
WE
sail'd
from
Malta
,
June
...
,
and
leaving
Sicily
on
our
Left-hand
,
enter'd
the
Archipelago
.
After
a
Voyage
of
fifteen
Days
,
without
any
remarkable
Disturbance
,
we
arriv'd
at
the
Height
of
Troy
,
and
our
Vessel
standing
in
to
Tenedos
,
both
by
reason
of
the
contrary
Wind
,
and
to
take
in
some
fresh
Provisions
,
I
took
this
Occasion
to
visit
the
Ruines
of
that
famous
City
,
which
are
at
present
so
obscure
and
inconsiderable
,
that
unless
a
Man's
Mind
were
full
of
the
Idea
of
it
,
he
might
view
it
all
over
without
perceiving
the
least
reason
to
conclude
that
ever
any
Town
stood
in
that
place
.
Yet
by
a
Curious
Search
,
an
inquisitive
Traveller
may
find
enough
to
convince
him
,
that
't
was
formerly
of
a
prodigious
Extent
:
And
I
observ'd
some
Marks
of
it
in
four
or
five
different
Places
,
two
of
which
were
about
twenty
Miles
distant
.
The
next
Day
we
set
sail
with
a
favourable
Wind
,
and
enter'd
the
Canal
of
Constantinople
,
otherwise
call'd
the
Hellespont
,
at
the
Mouth
of
which
we
found
two
Castles
,
one
in
Europe
,
and
the
other
in
Asia
,
separated
by
the
Canal
or
Strait
,
which
is
about
a
Mile
and
a
half
broad
in
this
Place
,
and
retains
the
same
breadth
almost
throughout
.
The
European
Castle
is
a
Mass
compos'd
of
three
great
Towers
,
surrounded
with
a
weak
and
inconsiderable
Wall
,
after
the
manner
of
a
False-bray
,
at
the
Foot
of
which
there
are
twenty
Pieces
of
Cannon
level
with
the
Water
.
'T
is
said
that
they
carry
a
fifty
Pound
Ball
of
Stone
;
and
indeed
their
Mouths
are
so
wide
,
that
the
very
sight
of
'em
is
terrible
:
Nevertheless
,
I
'm
apt
to
believe
that
they
are
not
fit
for
Service
,
and
even
that
they
cou'd
not
bear
above
one
discharge
,
both
by
reason
of
their
thinness
,
and
because
they
are
not
mounted
on
Carriages
.
There
is
a
Mountain
behind
the
Castle
that
overlooks
and
commands
it
.
The
other
Castle
,
which
is
seated
upon
the
Asian
Shore
,
is
of
a
Square
Figure
,
according
to
the
Ancient
manner
of
Building
,
defended
only
with
some
small
Towers
join'd
to
the
Wall
;
and
without
there
is
a
Battery
of
Cannons
behind
a
Wall
,
as
in
the
other
.
The
Captain
was
oblig'd
to
stop
at
this
place
,
and
one
of
the
Officers
of
the
Custom-House
came
on
board
our
Ship
,
and
accompany'd
us
to
Constantinople
.
Having
pass'd
the
Canal
,
we
enter'd
into
the
Sea
formerly
call'd
the
Propontis
,
and
at
present
Marmora
,
from
the
Name
of
an
Island
which
contains
a
great
quantity
of
very
fine
Marble
.
Twenty
Miles
from
thence
we
discover'd
Constantinople
,
and
had
the
pleasure
of
viewing
the
finest
Landskip
that
ever
I
beheld
;
for
it
strikes
all
those
who
look
upon
it
with
Wonder
and
Astonishment
.
Imagine
you
see
a
great
City
stretch'd
along
the
Shore
for
above
six
Miles
,
and
so
situated
sloping
towards
the
Sea
,
that
you
perceive
at
once
an
infinite
Number
of
Mosquees
,
adorn'd
with
little
Domes
cover'd
with
Lead
,
and
high
Turrets
,
which
altogether
make
one
of
the
most
lovely
Prospects
in
the
World
:
Whilst
the
Eye
is
busy'd
in
contemplating
this
charming
Variety
of
Objects
,
't
is
agreeably
diverted
with
the
sight
of
the
Castle
of
the
Seven
Towers
,
and
of
the
Seraglio
,
which
are
particularly
remarkable
not
only
for
their
largeness
,
but
for
a
vast
Number
of
gilt
Globes
and
Spires
,
resembling
little
Steeples
.
The
nearer
I
approach'd
,
I
still
discover'd
new
Ornaments
;
and
after
I
had
consider●d
at
leisure
so
many
Wonders
,
I
was
at
last
agreeably
surpriz'd
with
the
Beauty
of
the
Port
:
'T
is
three
Miles
long
,
and
almost
one
broad
,
clean
and
deep
throughout
,
even
to
the
Shoar
,
the
largest
Ships
coming
up
close
to
the
Land
,
so
that
one
may
go
on
board
without
making
use
of
a
Boat
.
'T
is
strange
that
the
Harbour
is
never
fill'd
up
,
especially
near
the
Shore
,
since
all
the
Filth
of
the
City
is
cast
into
it
,
without
the
Advantage
of
a
Tide
to
carry
it
away
.
At
the
Entrance
into
the
Port
there
is
a
high
square
Tower
,
commonly
call'd
The
Tower
of
Leander
,
from
a
Person
of
that
Name
,
who
,
according
to
the
Story
,
us'd
to
swim
thither
every
Night
to
see
his
Mistress
,
who
was
imprison'd
in
the
Tower
.
There
is
a
Fountain
on
the
Rock
,
with
some
Pieces
of
Cannon
,
which
might
defend
the
Entry
in
case
of
Necessity
.
As
soon
as
we
arriv'd
,
I
went
with
the
Captain
to
salute
the
Baron
de
Chasteau-neuf
,
Ambassador
of
France
,
who
receiv'd
me
very
civilly
.
He
has
a
good
Mien
,
and
is
Master
of
a
great
deal
of
Wit
:
He
was
formerly
Councellor
in
the
Parliament
of
Paris
,
and
was
sent
to
the
Port
about
the
end
of
the
last
Year
,
in
the
room
of
Monsieur
de
Girardin
,
who
died
here
.
He
is
a
Savoyard
by
birth
,
but
a
very
zealous
Promoter
of
the
Interests
of
Franee
:
He
spares
nothing
to
gain
the
Turks
;
he
endeavours
to
win
'em
with
Presents
,
Caresses
,
and
Entertainments
;
his
Table
is
always
full
of
'em
;
but
his
principal
Care
is
to
oblige
those
whom
he
knows
to
be
the
Favourites
of
the
great
Officers
.
I
know
one
among
the
rest
,
call'd
Soliman
Aga
,
who
is
extremely
debauch'd
,
and
since
he
always
finds
excellent
Win●
at
the
Ambassador●s
Table
,
he
goes
thither
very
often
,
and
is
still
receiv'd
with
all
imaginable
Demonstrations
of
Love
and
Kindness
.
After
I
had
the
Honour
to
Sup
with
the
Ambassadour
,
I
went
to
lodge
at
a
Tavern
,
or
Victualling-House
.
If
I
had
resolv'd
to
have
stay'd
long
in
the
Country
,
I
wou'd
have
boarded
in
some
Family
,
for
Strangers
are
very
ill
accomodated
in
these
Publick-Houses
.
Every
Nation
is
permitted
to
have
three
;
so
that
there
wou'd
be
nine
in
all
,
if
the
English
and
Dutch
thought
fit
to
make
use
of
their
Privilege
:
'T
is
still
more
difficult
to
obtain
a
Permission
to
keep
an
Oven
:
One
must
procure
a
special
Mandamus
from
the
Sultan
for
that
effect
,
and
pay
a
Thousand
Avanies
to
the
Bassa
and
Cadi
;
and
there
is
only
one
allow'd
for
the
use
of
each
Nation
in
every
Town
;
for
the
Turks
are
so
extremely
afraid
of
Fire
,
that
they
suffer
very
few
Ovens
to
be
kept
in
their
Cities
.
They
are
also
very
careful
to
prevent
the
Exportation
of
Corn
;
for
't
is
a
Capital
Crime
to
carry
it
out
of
the
Country
,
or
even
to
sell
it
to
private
Families
:
And
for
the
more
effectual
Execution
of
these
Orders
,
there
are
certain
Officers
appointed
to
over-see
the
Markets
,
who
suffer
no
Man
to
buy
above
[
](A36827-e24110-b)*
*
Somewhat
more
than
20
Quarters
.
Four
Muids
at
a
time
,
nor
even
the
least
quantity
,
without
a
Licence
from
the
Nais
.
Offences
of
this
Nature
are
punish'd
with
so
much
Rigour
,
that
if
a
Peasant
were
convicted
of
selling
his
Corn
to
a
Christian
,
't
wou'd
cost
him
more
than
500
Bastinado's
.
But
before
I
proceed
to
describe
the
Manners
and
Customs
of
the
Inhabitants
,
I
shall
give
you
a
short
Account
of
the
City
of
Constantinople
.
'T
is
seated
in
Europe
,
on
a
Point
or
Tongue
of
Land
that
juts
out
into
the
Sea
of
Marmora
,
in
a
Triangular
Figure
,
six
Miles
long
,
and
fourteen
in
compass
,
two
of
its
sides
being
wash'd
by
the
Sea
.
'T
was
founded
by
Pausanias
,
King
of
Sparta
,
who
gave
it
the
Name
of
Byzantium
,
which
it
retain'd
till
Constantine
the
Great
,
resolving
to
make
it
the
Metropolis
of
the
World
,
order'd
it
to
be
rebuilt
with
all
imaginable
Magnificence
;
after
which
it
took
the
Name
of
Constantinople
,
or
Constantine's
Town
;
but
the
Turks
call
it
Stambol
.
The
French
,
in
Conjunction
with
the
Venetians
,
took
it
in
1203.
and
fifty
Years
after
▪
t
was
re-taken
by
the
Greeks
,
who
remain'd
Masters
of
it
till
the
Year
1453
,
when
it
fell
into
the
Hands
of
Mahomet
II.
'T
is
at
present
the
Capital
City
of
the
Ottoman
Empire
,
as
it
appears
by
the
Grand
Signior's
Titles
,
who
stiles
himself
,
The
Ruler
of
Kings
,
Distributer
of
Crowns
,
Lord
of
the
White
and
Black
Seas
,
of
Bagdat
,
Grand
Cairo
,
Aleppo
,
&c.
and
particularly
of
the
fain
City
of
Stambol
the
well-defended
,
which
is
the
Desire
of
the
Kings
and
Princes
of
the
Earth
.
The
Air
is
extremely
pure
,
and
so
wholsome
,
that
the
Inhabitants
are
never
subject
to
any
reigning
Disease
but
the
Plague
,
which
visits
'em
every
Year
,
and
makes
a
dreadful
Havock
among
'em
.
I
'm
apt
to
think
that
they
wou'd
live
till
they
dropt
into
their
Graves
through
meer
Age
and
Weakness
,
if
their
Days
were
not
shorten'd
by
this
Infectious
Malady
;
and
they
are
so
little
acquainted
with
any
other
mortal
Distemper
,
that
when
a
Frenchman
assures
'em
that
the
Plague
is
hardly
known
in
his
Country
,
they
usually
cry
,
What
d'
ye
die
of
then
?
The
Climate
is
so
Temperate
,
that
the
Winters
are
never
excessively
Cold
,
and
the
Summer-Heats
are
usually
allay'd
with
a
pleasant
Brieze
,
besides
the
drinking
of
cool
Liquors
,
which
,
in
my
Opinion
,
is
one
of
the
greatest
Pleasures
of
this
Life
.
In
the
Account
I
have
given
you
of
the
Situation
and
Bigness
of
Constantinople
,
I
speak
only
of
the
City
which
properly
bears
that
Name
;
for
there
are
four
other
Towns
join'd
together
,
call'd
Cassum
Pacha
,
Galata
,
Pera
,
and
Tophana
,
which
may
be
consider'd
as
a
part
,
or
rather
as
the
Suburbs
of
the
City
,
since
they
are
only
separated
from
it
by
the
breadth
of
the
Port
,
which
is
so
small
a
distance
,
that
a
Man
who
cries
aloud
,
tho'
without
extending
his
Voice
to
the
utmost
,
may
be
easily
heard
on
the
other
side
.
In
these
Towns
,
and
particularly
in
Pera
,
the
Ambassadors
and
all
the
Franks
live
;
for
they
are
not
permitted
to
reside
at
Constantinople
.
And
't
is
to
be
observ'd
,
that
the
Name
of
Franks
is
given
indifferenly
to
Men
of
all
Nations
who
wear
Hats
.
These
four
Cities
are
about
eight
Miles
in
compass
;
so
that
if
they
,
together
with
the
Village
of
Scutaret
,
and
some
other
Suburbs
,
be
added
to
the
City
of
Constantinople
,
and
all
join'd
together
to
make
one
vast
Town
,
Constantinople
,
in
this
sense
,
wou'd
be
found
to
be
double
of
Paris
.
But
there
is
a
great
variety
of
Opinions
in
this
Case
:
Some
comprehend
all
the
above-mention'd
places
under
the
Name
of
Constantinople
,
others
cut
off
the
four
Cities
;
and
there
are
some
who
include
the
City
within
the
compass
of
its
own
Walls
;
so
that
almost
every
Traveller
gives
a
different
Account
of
its
Extent
from
all
others
.
The
Walls
with
which
't
is
at
present
surrounded
,
are
the
same
that
were
built
by
Constanstine
the
Great
,
except
in
some
places
where
they
have
been
repair'd
.
They
are
double
on
the
side
next
the
Land
,
with
Battlements
,
after
the
Oriental
fashion
,
and
Towers
from
place
to
place
;
and
besides
,
they
are
defended
with
a
lin'd
but
shallow
Ditch
:
These
,
with
the
Castle
of
the
Seven
Towers
,
are
all
the
Strength
of
Constantinople
;
for
the
Number
of
its
Inhabitants
deserves
not
to
be
reckon'd
among
its
Advantages
,
since
those
Turks
who
are
never
accustom'd
to
War
,
are
so
unfit
to
resist
an
Enemy
,
that
they
wou'd
only
serve
to
consume
the
Provisions
,
and
hasten
a
Famine
:
And
besides
,
I
'm
persuaded
that
Bombs
wou'd
do
more
execution
here
than
in
any
other
City
in
the
World
;
for
the
Houses
are
generally
of
Wood
,
and
the
Streets
so
narrow
,
that
in
the
greatest
part
of
'em
two
loaded
Horses
cannot
go
a-breast
.
But
this
is
not
the
greatest
inconvenience
of
their
manner
of
Building
;
for
their
Houses
jut
out
so
far
near
the
Top
,
that
in
several
places
one
may
step
from
one
Window
to
another
,
and
cross
the
Street
without
going
down
from
his
Chamber
.
This
Contrivance
of
their
Houses
does
not
proceed
from
want
of
Room
,
for
the
City
is
full
of
Gardens
,
and
large
Courts
,
that
are
perfectly
useless
.
But
tho'
I
cannot
acquaint
you
with
the
reason
that
makes
'em
so
fond
of
this
manner
of
Building
,
I
can
assure
you
that
it
exposes
'em
to
all
those
fatal
Inconveniencies
that
are
occasion'd
by
Fire
,
which
breaks
out
very
frequently
,
and
proceeds
with
irresistable
Fury
,
till
it
meets
with
some
Garden
,
or
empty
Place
,
where
there
are
no
Houses
to
be
burnt
.
Among
so
many
Instances
of
this
Nature
,
I
shall
only
take
notice
of
one
that
happen'd
in
the
Year
88
,
which
made
so
terrible
a
Havock
in
the
City
,
that
there
were
above
3000
Houses
laid
in
Ashes
.
But
besides
the
dangerous
Consequences
of
this
kind
of
Architecture
,
't
is
also
very
offensive
to
the
Eye
;
for
the
Streets
are
extremely
disfigur'd
by
this
Irregularity
:
Nor
are
there
any
external
Ornaments
on
the
Houses
to
make
amends
for
this
Defect
,
since
they
are
only
daub●d
over
with
a
nasty
red
Paint
,
laid
upon
the
rough
Wood
,
which
is
neither
plan'd
,
nor
cut
with
any
other
Instrument
than
an
Axe
or
Saw
;
so
that
the
Houses
are
all
very
ugly
.
Judge
,
Sir
,
what
reason
I
had
to
be
surpriz'd
,
when
after
I
had
view'd
with
Amazement
the
magnificent
Prospect
of
the
City
from
the
Sea
of
Marmora
,
I
saw
all
my
Expectations
baulk'd
,
and
instead
of
so
many
Wonders
,
found
only
some
Mosques
,
and
a
few
Monuments
of
Antiquity
.
Not
that
I
wou●d
discourage
any
Curious
Person
from
undertaking
this
Voyage
;
for
tho'
the
Manners
and
Customs
of
the
Inhabitants
ought
never
to
be
propos●d
for
Imitation
,
they
are
so
odd
and
singular
,
that
an
Inquisitive
Traveller
may
employ
his
Time
and
Curiosity
with
a
great
deal
of
Pleasure
in
observing
'em
.
The
Turks
are
opposite
to
us
in
almost
all
respects
:
We
content
our selves
with
one
Wife
,
They
marry
several
Wives
;
Our
Habit
is
short
,
Theirs
long
;
We
wear
our
Hair
long
,
and
our
Beards
shav'd
,
They
shave
their
Hair
,
and
suffer
their
Beards
to
grow
;
We
write
in
a
streight
Line
from
Left
to
Right
,
and
They
in
a
crooked
from
Right
to
Left
.
I
cou'd
easily
add
several
other
Instances
of
the
same
Nature
,
since
the
Opposition
reaches
even
to
the
meanest
Actions
,
such
as
the
easing
of
Nature
;
for
they
crouch
down
to
Piss
,
like
Women
,
and
when
they
have
done
,
rub
their
Privities
on
a
Wall
,
which
they
think
purifies
'em
.
Two
Days
after
our
Arrival
at
Galata
,
the
Captain
and
I
went
to
see
Constantinople
,
with
the
French
Interpreter
,
who
accompany'd
us
on
purpose
to
show
us
all
the
Curiosities
.
There
are
always
so
many
Boats
passing
from
one
side
to
another
,
that
the
Port
is
usually
cover'd
with
'em
,
and
their
Fare
is
only
an
Asper
.
We
took
Boat
at
the
Custom-House
,
and
enter'd
the
City
at
the
Gate
of
Galata
,
or
the
next
Gate
to
the
Seraglio
,
which
we
kept
on
our
Left-hand
,
and
went
streight
to
the
Besestin
,
which
is
a
distinct
Canton
of
the
City
,
enclos'd
with
Gates
and
Walls
,
where
all
the
Merchants
keep
Shops
.
This
is
the
finest
and
most
regular
place
in
Constantinople
,
not
unlike
to
the
places
that
are
appointed
for
the
keeping
of
Fairs
among
us
,
such
as
that
of
S.
Germain
at
Paris
:
The
Streets
are
divided
after
the
same
manner
,
and
cover'd
above
with
Planks
join'd
together
upon
Rafters
,
which
form
a
kind
of
Roof
,
sufficient
to
secure
the
place
against
all
the
Inconveniences
of
bad
Weather
,
tho'
there
are
Holes
left
to
let
in
the
Light
.
Here
all
the
finest
and
most
precious
Wares
of
Constantinople
are
to
be
seen
;
for
every
Merchant
keeps
a
Shop
in
this
Place
,
as
it
were
for
a
Pattern
of
all
the
Goods
contain'd
in
his
Ware-house
;
and
the
Shops
are
rank'd
and
dispos'd
in
such
excellent
Order
,
that
the
Buyer
may
dispatch
his
Business
in
less
than
a
quarter
of
an
Hour
;
for
all
the
Trades
are
separated
,
and
confin'd
to
their
proper
places
.
Thus
one
part
of
the
Besestin
is
possess●d
by
the
goldsmiths
,
whose
Work
,
indeed
,
is
not
so
fine
,
nor
their
Shops
so
well
furnish●d
as
in
France
or
England
;
but
I
only
speak
here
of
their
Order
and
Regularity
:
Another
place
is
set
apart
for
the
Drapers
,
or
those
who
sell
Dutch
,
French
,
and
English
Cloth
:
Not
far
from
thence
are
the
Sellers
of
Silk
Stuffs
,
and
Gold
and
Silver
Brocado's
;
the
Makers
of
Talpo
,
or
Head-Dresses
for
Women
,
which
are
very
magnificent
;
the
Babouchi
,
or
Shoo●-makers
,
the
Taylors
,
Grocers
,
and
all
sort
of
Shopkeepers
,
have
also
their
distinct
Streets
.
The
Gates
are
shut
every
Evening
at
Ten
a
Clock
,
by
Persons
who
are
hir●d
for
that
purpose
,
and
those
who
have
occasion
to
pass
this
way
later
,
must
give
two
or
three
Pence
to
the
Porters
,
who
wait
constantly
at
the
Gates
.
This
is
the
only
place
in
Constantinople
where
there
are
Shops
;
for
the
rest
of
the
City
consists
only
of
little
and
narrow
Streets
,
which
for
the
most
part
are
so
desolate
that
one
may
pass
thro'
the
Town
without
meeting
so
many
Persons
as
Streets
,
unless
in
the
Publick
Places
,
such
as
the
Hyppodrome
,
whither
we
went
after
we
had
view'd
the
Besestin
.
This
spacious
Place
was
built
by
the
Emperour
Constantine
,
for
Exercises
on
Horse-back
,
and
is
still
call'd
by
the
Turks
,
the
Place
of
Horses
.
'T
is
an
Oblong
Square
,
400
Paces
long
,
and
about
200
broad
.
Towards
the
End
opposite
to
the
Seraglio
,
there
are
two
Obelisks
;
the
first
consisting
of
one
Stone
,
is
seventy
Foot
high
,
adorn'd
with
several
Hieroglyphical
Figures
in
Relief
,
and
plac'd
on
a
square
Marble
Pedestal
.
On
one
of
the
Faces
of
the
Pedestal
,
there
is
a
Latin
Inscription
,
so
ancient
and
worn
,
that
all
that
can
be
learn'd
by
it
is
,
that
it
was
built
by
Theodosius
:
The
second
contains
a
like
Inscription
in
Greek
:
The
third
is
adorn'd
with
the
Figure
of
the
Emperour
seated
on
a
Throne
,
and
accompany'd
with
his
great
Officers
;
and
in
the
fourth
there
is
a
Representation
of
a
Battle
,
in
Memory
of
some
Victory
obtain'd
over
that
Prince's
Enemies
.
The
other
Obelisk
is
a
sharp
pointed
Pyramid
,
built
of
Free-Stones
,
without
any
Inscription
,
and
begins
to
decay
extremely
.
Near
these
Obelisks
there
is
a
Brazen
Pillar
of
a
considerable
height
,
commonly
call'd
the
Serpentine
Column
,
because
it
consists
of
three
Serpents
wreath'd
and
twisted
together
,
with
their
Tails
fasten'd
in
the
Ground
,
and
ending
at
the
Top
in
three
gaping
Heads
,
which
seem
to
hiss
,
and
threaten
the
three
parts
of
the
World
that
were
known
in
that
Age.
Some
pretend
that
this
Column
is
a
Hieroglyphical
Representation
of
the
united
Empires
of
the
East
and
West
,
extending
their
Dominion
over
the
whole
Universe
:
But
the
most
common
Opinion
is
,
that
in
the
time
of
the
Emperour
Leo
Isaurus
,
who
was
a
great
Magician
,
there
were
three
Monstruous
Serpents
,
who
made
so
prodigious
a
Havock
in
the
Country
about
Constantinople
,
that
the
People
were
forc'd
to
abandon
their
Habitations
;
and
that
the
Emperor
drew
these
Serpents
by
Enchantment
into
a
large
Ditch
,
which
he
made
in
the
middle
of
the
Hippodrome
,
where
they
were
kill'd
,
and
cover'd
with
Earth
.
The
Story
adds
,
that
to
prevent
a
like
Misfortune
for
the
future
,
this
Column
was
erected
by
the
same
Prince
,
as
a
Talisman
against
Serpents
,
of
which
there
are
at
present
very
few
in
the
Country
.
One
of
these
Heads
wants
the
the
Nether-Jaw
,
and
't
is
said
that
Sultan
Morat
broke
it
off
with
his
Hand
.
The
Turks
boast
much
of
the
wonderful
Strength
of
that
Emperour
,
as
a
Memorial
of
which
,
they
preserve
in
the
Castle
of
Grand
Cairo
,
ten
great
Bucklers
pierc'd
with
a
Stake
,
or
Wooden
Javelin
,
which
they
pretend
he
darted
at
'em
;
the
Stake
sticking
still
in
the
Bucklers
,
and
keeping
'em
all
joyn●d
together
.
The
Story
of
the
Serpentine
Column
is
not
the
only
fabulous
Tradition
concerning
the
Emperour
Leo.
The
Greeks
,
especially
,
who
are
without
Contradiction
the
most
superstitious
People
in
the
World
,
and
most
addicted
to
Miracles
,
take
pleasure
in
relating
a
Thousand
Wonders
of
the
Life
of
that
Prince
.
For
Example
:
They
tell
us
that
he
made
two
Torto●ses
,
by
Art
Magick
,
of
a
surprizing
bigness
,
which
drew
his
Chariot
,
and
both
Eat
and
Drank
,
tho'
they
were
not
natural
Animals
;
adding
,
that
these
Tertois●s
are
still
to
be
seen
in
the
Grand
Sign●or's
Garden
,
but
that
they
have
remain'd
immoveable
ever
since
his
Death
.
They
pretend
also
that
the
same
Emperour
made
a
Tree
with
its
Franches
and
Leaves
so
artificially
contriv●d
,
that
they
seem●d
to
be
perfectly
Natural
,
and
that
the
Boughs
were
fill'd
with
a
hundred
Magical
Birds
of
different
kinds
,
who
upon
the
least
breath
of
Wind
,
warbl'd
out
their
various
Notes
,
and
all
together
made
a
most
charming
Melody
.
These
are
some
of
the
Tales
with
which
the
Greeks
are
wont
to
talk
Men
asleep
.
There
are
two
other
Columns
in
Constantinople
,
one
call'd
the
Historical
,
and
the
other
the
Burnt
Column
;
for
the
last
was
actually
burnt
.
Adjoining
to
these
we
saw
a
large
Court
,
appointed
for
the
use
of
Archers
:
The
Master
of
the
Sport
presented
us
with
a
Bow
,
and
we
had
the
Pleasure
to
shoot
some
Arrows
at
the
Mark
,
which
was
fasten'd
on
a
Wall
,
and
contain'd
several
lesser
Marks
,
gradually
decreasing
,
so
that
the
least
was
not
bigger
than
a
Dutch
Skelling
;
and
yet
I
saw
several
Persons
who
hit
at
every
Shoot
,
tho'
they
stood
100
Paces
off
.
In
our
return
to
Galata
we
pass'd
by
Sancta
Sophia
,
which
is
at
present
the
principal
Mosque
of
the
City
.
There
are
several
Doors
that
lead
into
a
Portico
,
which
brought
us
immediately
into
the
Mosque
.
'T
is
120
Paces
long
,
and
80
broad
:
The
Walls
are
Square
,
but
the
Vault
or
Roof
is
Round
,
and
so
artificially
contriv'd
,
that
so
large
a
Structure
is
supported
without
any
Columns
;
for
those
Rows
of
Columns
that
form
the
two
lower
Portico's
,
serve
only
for
Ornament
,
and
are
so
plac'd
that
they
cannot
be
suppos'd
to
carry
any
other
weight
than
that
of
two
Galleries
;
and
even
the
greatest
part
of
these
Columns
are
so
old
,
that
they
are
forc'd
to
bind
'em
about
with
great
Iron
Hoops
,
to
prevent
their
falling
.
I
know
not
what
cou'd
occasion
all
those
Chinks
that
are
observ'd
in
'em
,
for
they
are
built
of
a
very
hard
and
polish'd
Stone
,
which
some
think
is
a
kind
of
Marble
,
tho'
others
believe
it
to
be
the
Serpentine
Stone
.
There
are
thirty
on
each
side
,
about
sixteen
Foot
high
,
with
very
fine
Cornices
:
The
Vault
of
the
Mosque
retains
almost
all
its
ancient
Beauty
;
't
is
enrich'd
with
a
very
fine
Mosaick
Work
,
consisting
of
little
gilt
Stones
so
exactly
join'd
together
,
that
they
remain
almost
perfectly
entire
after
so
many
Ages
.
At
the
four
Corners
of
the
Building
where
the
Vault
begins
to
be
round
,
the
four
Beasts
mention'd
in
the
Apocalyps
,
are
painted
in
Mosaick
;
only
the
Turks
have
disfigur'd
their
Faces
,
as
they
have
also
done
to
an
Image
of
Our
Saviour
,
which
is
over
the
principal
Door
,
represented
after
the
Greek
Fashion
,
upon
a
Throne
,
with
his
Hand
lifted
,
and
two
of
his
Fingers
stretch'd
out
,
to
bless
a
Saint
,
who
lies
prostrate
before
him
,
with
his
Face
on
the
Ground
,
the
Virgin
appearing
on
the
other
side
.
Over
the
same
Door
there
is
also
a
Basso-Relievo
,
representing
the
Holy
Ghost
in
the
form
of
a
Dove
,
which
the
Turks
have
not
in
the
least
disfigur'd
.
The
Tomb
of
Constantine
remains
also
intire
,
which
the
Turks
hold
in
great
Veneration
;
as
well
as
the
Stone
on
which
the
Virgin
wash'd
Our
Saviour's
Linnen
.
This
Temple
is
pav'd
with
very
fine
Marble
,
and
the
Floor
is
cover'd
with
Mats
;
not
to
keep
it
from
being
foil'd
,
for
they
always
put
off
their
Babouche's
,
or
Shooes
,
before
they
enter
;
but
by
reason
of
the
coldness
of
the
Marble
,
which
might
incommode
those
who
come
to
perform
their
Devotions
in
this
place
,
especially
since
they
kneel
or
crouch
down
,
almost
after
the
same
manner
as
they
sit
upon
their
Sopha's
.
The
Keeper
of
the
Temple
was
easily
brib'd
to
permit
me
to
satisfie
my
Curiosity
with
a
distinct
view
of
all
the
Curiosities
I
have
describ'd
:
But
these
Officers
are
not
always
in
so
good
a
Humour
;
for
sometimes
they
are
very
civil
,
and
soon
prevail'd
with
to
admit
a
Stranger
into
the
Temple
;
but
at
other
times
they
are
so
Surly
and
Obstinate
,
that
one
can
hardly
procure
that
Satisfaction
at
the
rate
of
ten
Pistoles
.
'T
is
true
,
indeed
,
they
are
expresly
forbidden
to
grant
that
favour
to
Christians
;
and
the
permission
which
is
sometimes
given
to
Franks
,
is
only
an
effect
of
their
Indulgence
:
For
if
a
Greek
or
Iew
were
found
in
the
Mosque
,
he
wou'd
either
be
immediately
put
to
Death
,
or
constrain'd
to
save
his
Life
by
renouncing
his
Religion
.
Sophia
is
a
Greek
Word
,
signifying
Wisdom
,
and
this
Temple
was
so
call'd
by
the
Emperor
Justinian
,
who
consecrated
it
to
the
Sovereign
Wisdom
.
I
shall
briefly
acquaint
you
with
the
History
of
its
Foundation
,
as
I
had
it
from
the
Greeks
.
You
may
depend
upon
the
fidelity
of
my
Relation
;
but
I
dare
not
undertake
to
justifie
the
Credit
of
my
Authors
.
The
Emperor
Iustinian
being
dangerously
sick
,
his
Physician
,
call'd
Samson
,
whose
Mind
was
no
less
enlighten'd
by
the
Inspirations
of
the
Holy
Ghost
,
than
by
the
Knowledge
of
Philosophy
,
and
of
the
Art
which
he
profess'd
,
told
him
,
that
his
Distemper
was
of
such
a
Nature
,
that
it
cou'd
not
be
cur'd
by
the
Precepts
of
Physick
,
and
that
he
must
depend
wholly
upon
the
Assistance
of
Heaven
,
advising
him
to
make
some
Religious
Vows
,
and
encouraging
him
with
some
Assurances
that
God
wou'd
hear
his
Prayer
.
The
Devout
Prince
cheerfully
embrac'd
his
Counsel
,
and
vow'd
to
build
a
Temple
which
shou'd
surpass
all
the
Churches
of
the
World
in
Magnificence
.
God
was
pleas'd
with
the
sincerity
of
his
Devotion
;
he
rewarded
his
Faith
,
and
rescu'd
him
from
the
Jaws
of
Death
:
Nor
was
Iustinian
unmindful
of
his
Duty
to
his
Gracious
Deliverer
.
In
order
to
the
performanc●
of
his
Vow
,
he
fram'd
the
Model
of
the
Church
of
Sancta
Sophia
,
such
as
't
is
at
present
,
and
employ'd
a
vast
Number
of
Workmen
on
the
intended
Building
:
But
he
had
the
Misfortune
to
see
all
his
Treasures
exhausted
before
the
third
part
of
the
Work
was
compleated
;
so
that
he
cou'd
neither
prosecute
his
Design
,
nor
so
much
as
pay
50
Days
Wages
which
he
ow'd
to
the
Workmen
;
for
Christian
Emperors
had
not
then
assum'd
the
power
of
imposing
Taxes
on
their
Subjects
,
without
an
indispensable
Necessity
.
He
was
so
overcome
with
Sorrow
when
he
saw
that
he
cou'd
neither
finish
so
pious
a
Work
,
nor
,
do
Justice
to
the
poor
Men
whom
he
had
imploy'd
,
that
he
burst
forth
into
Tears
,
and
retir'd
to
his
Closet
,
where
he
was
breathing
out
his
Complaints
in
the
presence
of
his
God
;
when
a
sudden
Light
shone
thro'
the
Room
,
and
discover'd
a
Youth
of
incomparable
Beauty
,
who
assur'd
the
sorrowful
Emperour
that
God
had
seen
his
Tears
,
and
heard
his
Prayers
,
and
told
him
that
he
might
quickly
be
happy
if
he
wou'd
send
some
of
his
Servants
and
50
Camels
along
with
him
.
Justinian's
Heart
was
fill'd
with
Joy
at
the
hearing
of
such
welcome
and
unexpected
Tidings
:
He
commanded
twenty
of
his
Servants
,
with
fifty
Camels
,
to
attend
the
bright
Messenger
,
who
carry'd
'em
out
of
Constantinople
to
a
Field
,
where
they
found
a
stately
Palace
,
tho'
there
was
never
any
Building
seen
in
that
place
either
before
or
since
.
The
Beauteous
Youth
,
or
rather
Angel
,
(
for
so
it
seems
he
was
)
open'd
the
Gates
of
this
Magnificent
Structure
,
and
led
'em
to
a
Hall
,
where
they
saw
vast
Heaps
of
Gold
,
Silver
,
and
all
sorts
of
Jewels
:
He
orderd
'em
to
load
their
Camels
;
and
then
both
he
and
the
Palace
disappear'd
,
only
the
Treasure
remain'd
,
which
the
Emperor
receiv'd
with
all
the
Marks
of
a
joyful
Gratitude
,
and
employ'd
it
in
building
and
adorning
the
Church
of
Sancta
Sophia
in
so
admirable
a
manner
,
that
the
Temple
of
Solomon
in
its
highest
Glory
,
was
neither
more
Beautiful
nor
Magnificent
.
He
built
also
with
the
same
Money
a
large
and
stately
Hospital
,
where
Persons
of
all
Nations
were
charitably
entertain'd
.
And
since
there
was
still
a
great
quantity
of
Treasure
left
,
which
the
Emperor's
Piety
wou'd
not
suffer
him
to
employ
in
prophane
Uses
,
he
order'd
the
Jewels
to
be
samp'd
to
Powder
,
and
the
Gold
and
Silver
to
be
melted
,
and
mixing
'em
all
together
,
he
made
the
most
precious
Table
that
ever
adorn'd
a
Temple
,
and
plac'd
it
on
the
High
Altar
,
to
serve
at
the
daily
Consecration
of
the
Sacrament
,
where
it
remain'd
till
the
Venetians
carry'd
it
away
with
those
admirable
Brazen
Gates
,
which
are
at
present
to
be
seen
at
S.
Mark
's
.
But
God
wou'd
not
suffer
so
Holy
a
Piece
to
become
a
Prey
to
those
who
cou'd
not
pretend
any
right
to
it
;
the
Galley
that
carry'd
it
open'd
miraculously
at
the
Mouth
of
the
Canal
,
in
the
Sea
of
Marmora
,
where
it
sunk
,
and
was
never
afterwards
found
.
This
,
Sir
,
(
if
you
have
Faith
enough
to
believe
it
)
is
the
Original
of
Sancta
Sophia
,
which
was
formerly
a
Christian
Church
,
and
is
now
a
Turkish
Mosquee
.
'T
is
at
present
the
only
Ancient
Structure
of
that
Nature
in
Constantinople
;
for
all
the
rest
were
built
in
this
and
the
last
Age
,
by
the
Sultans
or
Sultanesses
,
whose
Names
they
bear
.
There
are
seven
or
eight
particularly
remarkable
,
I
mean
those
of
the
Sultans
Mahomet
,
Achmet
,
Solyman
,
and
Selim
,
with
those
of
Chazadet
,
and
Validé
,
and
some
others
,
built
after
the
same
Model
,
and
differing
only
in
the
largeness
of
the
Structure
,
the
Number
of
the
Fountains
,
and
variety
of
the
Painting
;
so
that
the
Description
of
one
will
give
a
just
Idea
of
all
the
rest
,
and
therefore
I
shall
make
choice
of
that
of
Valide
,
which
is
the
newest
and
most
beautiful
Mosque
I
have
yet
seen
:
'T
was
built
by
the
Sultaness
Validé
,
Mother
of
Sultan
Mahomet
IV.
and
is
seated
in
the
midst
of
a
large
square
Court
,
resembling
a
vast
Cloyster
,
because
of
the
arch'd
Roofs
that
inviron
it
in
form
of
Portico's
;
under
which
there
are
many
Fountains
with
Cocks
,
where
those
who
are
polluted
may
wash
themselves
before
they
enter
the
Mosquee
.
It
has
but
one
Gate
,
surrounded
with
a
Portico
of
a
considerable
height
,
pav'd
with
white
and
black
Marble
,
and
supported
by
sixty
four
Columns
of
red
Marble
,
eight
of
which
are
of
Porphyrie
,
plac'd
near
the
Entry
,
but
of
no
very
regular
Design
,
because
the
bigness
of
the
Pieces
is
preserv'd
entire
:
The
Plafond
is
adorn'd
with
Painting
and
Figures
,
after
the
Turkish
manner
,
of
which
afterwards
you
may
expect
a
more
particular
Account
.
The
Portico
is
cover'd
with
little
Domes
,
with
a
very
large
one
in
the
middle
,
over-topping
the
rest
;
the
whole
Structure
consisting
of
Mason's-Work
cover'd
with
Lead
.
At
the
four
Corners
of
the
Building
there
are
four
Turrets
,
call'd
Minarets
,
built
of
Free-Stone
,
and
so
small
that
there
is
just
room
enough
within
for
a
little
Winding-Stair-case
,
reaching
to
three
fourth
parts
of
the
Height
,
which
the
Muezans
,
or
Marabouds
,
ascend
every
Morning
and
Evening
,
to
give
the
People
notice
of
the
appointed
times
of
Prayer
,
shouting
till
they
are
out
of
Breath
,
with
an
extremely
harsh
and
disagreeable
Tone
;
for
they
begin
with
a
very
low
Voice
,
and
raising
it
by
degrees
,
end
in
a
very
loud
Shriek
,
so
that
't
wou'd
be
impossible
to
understand
'em
,
if
the
People
were
not
already
acquainted
with
what
they
say
.
As
they
cry
,
they
clap
their
Hands
upon
their
Ears
,
and
go
round
the
Turret
in
a
little
Balcony
,
that
their
Voice
may
be
heard
thro'
the
whole
Town
,
repeating
these
Words
;
Allah
ekber
,
allah
ekber
,
allah
ekber
,
eschadou
in
la
illah
,
illallah
,
hi
alle
salla
,
hi
alle
salla
,
allah
ekber
,
allah
ekber
,
allah
ekber
,
la
illah
,
illallah
.
God
is
Great
,
God
is
Great
,
God
is
Great
;
give
testimony
that
there
is
but
One
God
:
Come
yield
your selves
up
to
his
Mercy
,
and
pray
him
to
forgive
you
your
Sins
.
God
is
Great
,
God
is
Great
,
God
is
Great
,
there
is
no
other
God
but
God
.
These
Turrets
are
very
high
,
and
for
the
most
part
end
in
a
Globe
or
Crescent
,
which
is
sometimes
Gilt.
This
is
a
brief
Representation
of
the
external
Architecture
of
Valid●
,
and
consequently
of
the
other
Mosquees
.
Within
they
are
either
vaulted
,
or
cover'd
with
a
Plafond
:
That
of
Validé
is
vaulted
,
and
adorn'd
with
a
great
Number
of
Lamps
,
and
Globes
of
Glass
.
When
they
say
Prayers
,
they
turn
their
Face
towards
a
large
Frame
at
the
end
of
the
Mosque
,
in
the
same
place
where
the
High-Altar
stands
in
Roman-Catholick
Churches
.
There
is
no
Figure
represented
on
this
Frame
or
Table
,
only
the
Name
of
GOD
is
written
on
it
in
Arabick
Characters
;
and
over-against
it
stands
two
Brazen
Candlesticks
,
with
a
Taper
of
Virgin-Wax
in
each
,
bigger
than
a
Man's
Thigh
.
In
the
Mosquees
that
are
founded
by
Emperôrs
,
there
is
usually
a
Turbé
,
or
little
Chappel
,
in
which
they
are
bury'd
.
Some
Sultans
have
built
Turbe's
apart
,
resembling
little
Mosquees
.
Those
of
Amurat
and
Solyman
I.
are
thè
finest
:
The
Body
of
the
last
lies
in
a
Coffin
,
like
those
that
are
us'd
in
France
,
cover'd
with
a
large
piece
of
Tapistry
,
with
a
Turbant
on
his
Head
,
in
which
there
are
two
fine
Aigrets
.
In
the
Turbé
of
Amurat
there
are
Eleven
of
his
Children
plac'd
round
him
,
with
two
of
his
Wives
;
and
at
the
Head
of
the
Coffin
there
is
a
little
Cupboard
or
Press
,
where
his
Prayer-Books
are
kept
,
which
,
are
adorn'd
with
Gold
and
Precious-Stones
,
appearing
thro'
a
Latten
Grate
,
and
all
Mussulmen
are
permitted
to
read
there
,
for
the
Repose
of
the
Souls
of
the
deceas'd
.
The
Keepers
of
the
Turbé
are
also
oblig'd
to
pray
for
'em
at
certain
Hours
of
the
Day
.
This
Sepulchre
is
not
very
magnificent
.
Having
seen
all
the
above-mention'd
places
,
we
return'd
to
Galata
,
resolving
to
spend
another
Day
in
visiting
the
rest
of
the
Curiosities
at
Constantinople
,
which
will
furnish
me
with
Matter
for
another
Letter
.
In
the
mean
time
I
am
,
SIR
,
Your
.
&c.
Constantinople
;
July
,
1690.
LETTER
XIII
.
SIR
,
THere
are
so
few
Palaces
or
other
remarkable
Buildings
in
Constantinople
,
that
in
two
Days
I
compleated
my
Walk
thro'
the
City
;
and
the
Observations
I
made
are
so
inconsiderable
,
that
I
shall
easily
be
able
to
finish
,
in
this
Letter
,
the
Description
which
I
began
in
the
last
.
The
Grand
Signior
▪
s
Arsenal
is
at
the
End
of
the
Port
,
beyond
Cassum
Pacha
and
Galata
.
I
found
the
Building
better
than
I
expected
,
after
what
I
had
seen
in
the
rest
of
the
City
;
and
besides
,
it
contains
a
considerable
extent
of
Ground
:
The
Galleys
are
laid
up
under
120
Arches
,
and
't
is
said
there
are
Arms
in
it
for
60000
Men.
But
the
Magazins
are
inaccessible
to
Christians
,
and
they
are
only
permitted
to
see
the
Baths
where
the
Sultan's
Slaves
are
shut
up
;
the
Number
of
these
Wretches
amounts
to
several
Thousands
;
and
their
Lodgings
are
so
miserable
,
that
I
repented
the
Curiosity
that
engag'd
me
in
so
unpleasant
a
Visit
.
The
Captain
Bassa
lives
in
the
Arsenal
,
with
all
the
Officers
of
the
Admiralty
,
that
they
may
be
always
ready
upon
the
Spot
to
receive
his
Orders
.
Constantinople
is
full
of
certain
Houses
,
which
the
Poverty
and
ill
Customs
of
the
place
have
render'd
necessary
,
I
mean
the
Hans
and
Karavanseraïs
.
The
Hans
consist
of
four
Sides
of
Building
,
enclosing
a
large
square
Court
,
in
which
there
is
always
a
Fountain
,
either
in
the
midst
,
or
in
some
other
part
of
it
.
The
Walls
are
very
strong
,
and
the
Windows
well
barr'd
,
to
secure
the
Goods
that
are
laid
in
the
Ware-Houses
.
The
Roof
consists
of
little
Domes
cover'd
with
Lead
,
like
those
of
the
Mosquees
.
These
Houses
are
appointed
for
the
Entertainment
of
Foreign
Merchants
:
They
contain
only
two
Stories
,
divided
into
Rooms
,
which
have
not
the
least
Communication
with
one
another
.
The
lower
Story
is
compos'd
of
Ware-Houses
for
the
Goods
,
and
the
upper
is
divided
into
little
Chambers
,
where
the
Merchants
Lodge
,
but
they
must
take
care
to
furnish
themselves
with
Beds
,
Pots
,
Dishes
,
&c.
for
they
are
only
accommodated
here
with
four
bare
Walls
;
and
after
they
have
provided
their
Furniture
,
they
must
buy
their
Meat
at
the
Market
or
Bazar
,
and
Dress
it
themselves
,
since
otherwise
they
might
starve
with
their
Pockets
full
of
Money
.
And
,
in
the
general
,
the
way
of
Travelling
in
this
Country
is
so
inconvenient
and
troublesome
,
that
this
Consideration
alone
may
serve
to
discourage
any
Man
that
loves
his
Ease
from
visiting
it
out
of
pure
Curiosity
.
For
in
the
first
place
you
must
neither
expect
Coach
,
Waggon
,
Boat
,
Horses
,
nor
any
other
convenient
Carriage
.
If
your
Affairs
oblige
you
to
undertake
a
Journey
,
tho'
not
above
100
Leagues
,
you
must
wait
three
Months
for
a
Caravan
,
which
,
after
all
,
will
not
Travel
above
four
Leagues
a
day
,
and
carry
no
other
Provisions
but
Rice
,
Bisket
,
and
Salt
Beef
,
on
which
you
must
make
a
shift
to
live
,
and
encamp
every
Night
till
you
arrive
at
your
Journies
end
,
where
,
if
you
have
not
the
conveniency
of
Lodging
with
a
particular
Friend
,
't
will
be
in
vain
to
enquire
for
the
King's-Head
,
the
White-Cross
,
or
the
Golden-Lyon
:
You
must
e'en
creep
into
a
Han
with
a
hundred
Wretches
,
whose
Brutishness
is
altogether
insupportable
,
and
reckon
your self
happy
when
ye
can
find
such
a
Lodging
,
which
,
after
all
,
is
better
than
Encamping
with
the
Caravan
.
You
will
,
perhaps
,
think
it
impossible
to
represent
a
more
frightful
Idea
of
Travelling
;
but
I
can
assure
you
,
that
all
these
Inconveniencies
are
not
comparable
to
those
which
they
who
Travel
to
Persia
,
or
cross
the
Desarts
of
Arabia
,
must
resolve
to
undergo
.
They
must
Travel
six
Months
together
expos'd
to
all
the
Inconveniencies
of
bad
Weather
,
and
for
the
most
part
in
burning
Sand
,
where
there
is
neither
a
Stalk
of
Grass
,
nor
a
Spring
to
quench
their
Thirst
.
Besides
,
they
are
perpetually
in
danger
of
being
surpriz'd
by
the
Arabs
,
who
rob
and
kill
all
that
come
in
their
way
.
But
all
these
Incommodities
may
be
either
more
easily
avoided
or
supported
than
those
terrible
Distempers
that
usually
seize
European
Travellers
,
who
are
not
accustom'd
to
such
hot
Climates
and
fatiguing
Journeys
.
I
shall
take
this
occasion
to
relate
a
Story
of
one
of
my
Friends
who
return'd
,
not
long
ago
,
from
Poland
,
whither
he
went
about
the
beginning
of
the
last
Year
by
the
King's
Order
,
in
the
quality
of
an
Interpreter
with
Monsieur
de
Chateauneuf's
Chancellor
,
call'd
Beauchesne
.
He
was
seiz'd
by
the
way
with
a
violent
Fever
and
Looseness
,
which
brought
him
so
low
,
and
made
him
so
troublesome
to
the
Caravan-Bachi
,
or
Captain
of
the
Caravan
,
that
his
Companions
wou'd
have
left
him
to
perish
without
assistance
,
if
that
Officer
had
not
been
afraid
to
run
the
hazard
of
offending
the
Ambassador
;
yet
he
assur'd
me
that
all
their
respect
to
Monsieur
Chateauneuf
cou'd
not
have
protected
him
,
if
the
Fever
had
seiz'd
on
his
Head
,
and
so
made
him
incapable
of
sitting
on
Horseback
.
But
these
are
not
the
only
disadvantages
which
Travellers
suffer
in
this
Country
;
they
are
expos'd
to
a
thousand
other
vexatious
Accidents
,
and
are
constantly
plagu'd
with
the
Brutish
Humours
of
the
Camel-drivers
.
We
are
wont
to
complain
of
the
Sawciness
of
Carriers
and
Coach-men
;
but
I
assure
you
they
wou'd
be
reckon'd
very
mild
and
tractable
in
this
Country
,
where
every
Camel-driver
is
as
haughty
as
a
Lord
,
and
the
poor
Traveller
must
keep
in
his
Post
under
pain
of
a
Bastanado
,
which
he
must
take
very
patiently
,
for
if
he
shou'd
offer
to
return
the
Blow
,
I
wou'd
not
ensure
his
Life
for
all
the
Money
in
the
Caravan
.
I
thought
my self
oblig'd
to
give
you
a
faithful
Account
of
all
these
Inconveniencies
,
which
most
Travellers
study
to
conceal
;
that
,
if
any
of
your
Friends
have
a
mind
to
undertake
the
same
Voyage
,
they
may
at
least
have
the
advantage
of
knowing
what
they
are
to
expect
,
which
they
cou'd
not
have
done
if
I
had
only
given
you
a
view
of
the
pleasant
and
bright
side
of
a
Traveller's
Entertainment
.
For
my
part
,
I
must
confess
I
had
so
strong
an
Inclination
to
Travelling
,
that
I
know
not
whether
I
shou'd
have
stopt
on
this
side
China
,
if
I
had
not
met
with
so
many
discouraging
Rubs
:
But
my
Curiosity
is
wonderfully
abated
of
late
,
and
I
'm
so
perfectly
cur'd
of
my
gadding
Humor
,
that
I
'm
resolv'd
to
confine
my self
hereafter
to
Europe
,
and
to
Travel
only
in
such
Places
where
I
may
find
,
at
least
,
a
piece
of
Beef
,
and
a
pair
of
clean
Sheets
at
Night
.
Since
I
had
occasion
to
mention
Beauchesne's
Journey
to
Poland
,
't
will
not
be
improper
to
give
you
a
short
account
of
the
cause
of
it
.
The
Turks
being
informed
of
the
great
Losses
which
the
French
sustain'd
during
the
Campaign
of
1689.
and
of
the
ill-fortune
that
attended
His
Majesty's
Arms
in
Flanders
,
where
the
Mareschal
D'
Humiere
was
unsuccessful
in
the
only
attempt
he
made
,
began
to
give
less
credit
to
the
French
Ambassador's
smooth
Harangues
,
and
to
desire
a
Peace
with
the
Emperour
.
The
Grand
Visier
spoke
of
it
several
times
to
Sir
William
Trumbal
and
Monsieur
Collier
,
the
English
and
Dutch
Ambassadors
,
and
sent
Orders
to
His
Master's
Envoys
at
Vienna
to
hasten
the
desir'd
Accommodation
.
And
certainly
the
Grand
Signior
had
reason
to
wish
for
a
Peace
,
for
his
Affairs
were
in
a
very
hopeless
condition
.
At
the
beginning
of
the
Campaign
his
Troops
suffer'd
a
considerable
disadvantage
in
Croatia
,
where
they
lost
above
2000
Men
,
with
several
Ensigns
,
and
the
Bassa
who
Commanded
'em
.
The
Prince
of
Baden
afterwards
Routed
'em
thrice
in
three
memorable
Battels
,
and
they
saw
themselves
expos'd
to
all
the
Insults
of
the
Imperialists
,
who
talk'd
of
nothing
less
than
of
Besieging
Constantinople
.
Temeswaer
,
Canissa
,
and
Waradin
,
the
only
places
they
possest
in
Hungary
,
were
closely
Block'd
up
without
any
hope
of
Relief
.
Thus
't
was
plainly
the
Interest
of
the
Turks
to
accept
of
the
Proposals
that
were
made
by
their
Victorious
Enemies
:
But
the
King's
Interest
was
on
this
occasion
directly
opposite
to
that
of
his
Allies
.
He
dreaded
the
fatal
consequences
of
such
a
Resolution
and
left
no
means
unessay'd
to
prevent
its
taking
effect
.
He
cajol'd
the
Grand
Signior
more
than
ever
,
and
flatter'd
him
with
the
hope
of
making
a
separate
Peace
with
the
Polanders
,
since
they
had
already
enter'd
into
a
Negotiation
with
the
Tartars
,
and
had
sent
Deputies
for
that
effect
to
Count
Tekeli
,
who
was
to
perform
the
Office
of
a
Mediator
between
'em
.
This
Stratagem
produc'd
the
desir'd
effect
,
and
the
Turk
was
the
more
easily
deluded
,
because
he
knew
that
not
long
before
there
happen'd
a
sort
of
Quarrel
between
the
Courts
of
Poland
and
Vienna
.
For
the
Emperor
had
granted
his
Protection
to
the
Moldavians
,
and
on
that
score
was
to
receive
the
same
Tribute
which
they
formerly
paid
to
the
Turks
.
The
King
of
Poland
pretended
a
right
to
that
Province
,
as
an
ancient
Fief
of
his
Crown
:
But
the
Emperor
wou'd
not
give
him
any
satisfaction
,
and
even
refus'd
to
answer
the
Polish
Ambassador's
Remonstrances
on
that
subject
.
In
the
mean
time
the
French
and
Turkish
Ambassadors
at
the
Court
of
Poland
,
were
not
idle
Spectators
of
so
favourable
a
Juncture
,
they
endeavour'd
to
foment
the
difference
,
and
Beauchesne
was
dispatch'd
thither
with
several
Instructions
both
from
the
King
his
Master
,
and
from
the
Grand
Visier
.
But
all
their
Negotiations
were
unsuccessful
,
for
they
cou'd
not
prevail
with
the
King
of
Poland
to
break
his
Confederacy
with
the
Emperor
.
I
will
not
trouble
you
with
an
Apology
for
the
length
of
this
digression
,
into
which
the
way
of
Travelling
in
Turkey
has
insensibly
engag'd
me
.
For
since
at
the
beginning
of
our
Correspondence
I
resolv'd
to
entertain
you
from
time
to
time
with
a
familiar
account
,
not
only
of
my
own
Observations
,
but
of
what
I
shou'd
learn
from
others
;
I
see
no
reason
why
the
prosecution
of
that
design
shou'd
oblige
me
to
a
nice
observance
of
an
exact
and
regular
Method
.
I
have
already
told
you
,
that
there
are
two
sorts
of
Public
Houses
in
Constantinople
;
the
Hans
,
and
the
Karavanseraïs
:
And
I
shall
take
this
occasion
to
add
a
short
description
of
the
Second
to
the
larger
account
I
gave
you
of
the
First
.
They
are
both
built
after
the
same
manner
,
only
the
Hans
are
enclos'd
with
good
thick
Walls
,
whereas
the
Stone-work
in
the
Karavanseraïs
reaches
no
higher
than
the
first
or
lower
Story
,
the
second
being
built
of
Wood
,
and
cover'd
with
Bricks
.
They
have
only
one
Gate
,
as
well
as
the
Hans
,
and
serve
to
lodge
poor
Strangers
,
and
the
Servants
of
the
Caravans
;
for
which
reason
they
are
call'd
Karavanseraï
,
or
the
Houses
of
the
Caravans
.
All
Indigent
Persons
resort
to
'em
,
paying
from
half
a
Crown
,
to
a
Crown
a
Month
,
according
to
the
fineness
of
the
House
,
or
the
advantages
of
its
Situation
.
After
we
had
taken
a
slight
view
of
several
of
these
Houses
,
we
went
to
the
Grand
Signior's
Seraglio
,
which
I
cannot
describe
exactly
,
since
I
was
not
suffer'd
to
go
further
than
the
second
Court
,
tho'
I
was
accompany'd
by
an
Aga
of
the
Janisaries
,
to
whom
I
had
been
effectually
recommended
,
and
without
whose
assistance
I
must
have
contented
my self
with
a
view
of
the
first
.
The
Seraglio
is
built
on
a
Point
of
Land
that
juts
out
into
the
Sea
,
which
I
had
occasion
to
mention
when
I
describ'd
the
situation
of
the
City
.
'T
is
surrounded
with
high
Walls
of
a
greyish
Stone
,
with
a
Parapet
at
the
top
,
and
Battlements
like
those
of
the
City
.
It
contains
a
vast
extent
of
Ground
,
almost
four
Miles
in
compass
,
the
greatest
part
of
which
is
taken
up
with
Gardens
.
The
Structure
is
irregular
,
and
very
unsutable
to
the
boasted
Magnificence
of
its
Master
:
For
't
is
only
a
vast
heap
of
Buildings
not
unlike
to
some
old
Castles
in
Christendom
;
and
you
see
nothing
on
the
outside
but
a
confus'd
medley
of
Houses
,
adorn'd
with
those
little
gilt
Spires
and
Globes
I
mention'd
in
my
last
,
in
which
all
its
Beauty
consists
.
The
rest
of
the
Building
is
so
mean
,
that
a
Man
wou'd
never
imagine
it
to
be
the
Seraglio
,
that
admir'd
Palace
of
the
Grand
Signior
.
The
principal
Entry
is
near
Sancta
Sophia
,
and
exactly
resembles
the
Gate
of
an
old
paltry
Town
,
without
either
Architecture
or
Ornament
:
Yet
't
is
carefully
guarded
by
the
Capigi
,
who
keep
their
Court
of
Guard
under
it
,
and
sit
on
Benches
of
Stone
.
This
Gate
led
us
into
a
large
Court
,
where
on
the
right
hand
we
observ'd
the
Apartments
for
the
Sick
,
with
large
Matted
Sopha's
along
the
Walls
,
where
the
Diseas'd
Persons
are
plac'd
,
and
lodg'd
as
poorly
as
if
they
were
in
a
Hospital
.
On
the
left
hand
are
Magazines
containing
Arms
for
a
Thousand
Men
,
that
in
case
of
necessity
the
Grand
Signior
may
arm
his
Domestic
Servants
for
the
security
of
his
Person
.
But
notwithstanding
this
Precaution
,
Ibrahim
was
Strangled
,
Mahomet
Dethron'd
,
and
Solyman
Poison'd
,
not
to
mention
the
Tragical
Ends
of
so
many
other
Princes
of
the
same
Line
,
whose
Guards
cou'd
not
protect
'em
from
the
fury
of
a
Seditious
Multitude
.
From
this
Court
we
pass'd
into
another
,
border'd
with
two
large
Portico's
.
The
Grand
Signior's
Kitchens
are
on
one
side
,
which
are
not
kept
very
hot
at
present
,
since
he
chuses
to
reside
at
Adrianople
:
Yet
I
observ'd
some
Persons
preparing
Pilo
,
Pasties
,
and
Fish
,
for
the
Women
in
the
old
Seraglio
.
On
the
other
Side
are
the
Stables
,
where
there
is
Room
and
Accommodation
for
a
hundred
Horses
.
If
your
Curiosity
be
not
satisfy'd
with
so
imperfect
an
Account
of
so
famous
a
Place
,
you
must
consult
those
who
were
permitted
to
enter
farther
.
Very
near
this
Seraglio
,
and
within
the
same
Enclosure
,
there
is
another
Edifice
,
commonly
call'd
The
Old
Seraglio
.
'T
was
erected
by
one
who
was
no
Lover
of
ill-contriv'd
Structures
,
I
mean
Constantine
the
Great
;
and
yet
't
is
certainly
a
very
ugly
Mass
of
Building
,
surrounded
with
Walls
of
an
unusual
Heighth
,
without
any
Windows
on
the
Outside
.
I
will
not
undertake
to
justifie
the
Design
of
the
Founder
,
tho'
we
may
be
allow'd
to
suppose
that
he
had
some
secret
Reasons
for
contriving
it
after
this
Manner
.
Besides
I
only
saw
the
Back
of
it
,
and
perhaps
the
Front
may
be
more
regularly
built
.
Here
the
reigning
Sultan
shuts
up
the
Wives
of
his
Predecessours
,
who
at
their
Entrance
into
this
Place
may
bid
adieu
to
all
the
Pleasures
of
this
Life
.
The
present
Sultan's
Wives
are
lodg'd
in
a
Third
Seraglio
,
which
is
join'd
so
close
to
that
of
the
Grand
Signior
,
that
he
may
pass
from
one
to
the
other
without
exposing
himself
to
the
Rain
.
I
need
not
tell
you
with
what
severity
they
are
guarded
by
the
white
and
black
Eunuchs
,
who
never
permit
'em
to
enjoy
the
least
Shadow
of
Liberty
.
All
the
Relations
of
Travellers
are
full
of
Stories
and
Reflexions
on
this
Subject
,
and
therefore
instead
of
repeating
the
Observations
of
others
,
I
shall
only
add
,
that
't
is
a
Capital
Crime
to
look
upon
one
of
these
Women
.
I
saw
a
Turk
at
Galata
whose
Father
was
strangl'd
for
so
dangerous
a
piece
of
Curiosity
,
under
the
Reign
of
Amurath
,
whose
Memory
will
not
be
easily
forgotten
in
the
Places
that
were
subject
to
his
Dominion
;
for
he
was
certainly
one
of
the
severest
and
most
vigilant
Princes
in
the
World
.
'T
was
his
daily
Custom
to
walk
in
Disguise
thro'
the
City
,
that
he
might
be
an
Eye-witness
of
the
Care
that
was
taken
to
put
the
Laws
in
Execution
;
and
he
seldom
or
never
walk'd
the
Rounds
without
leaving
some
headless
Monuments
of
his
Justice
:
besides
he
frequently
observ'd
what
was
done
in
the
City
from
his
Seraglio
,
by
the
help
of
some
excellent
Prospective-Glasses
,
with
which
the
Venetians
had
presented
him
.
One
day
as
he
was
making
his
usual
.
Observations
,
he
perceiv'd
a
Man
in
Pera
,
who
had
also
a
Prospective-Glass
,
and
was
viewing
the
Sultanesses
,
who
were
walking
in
the
Garden
.
Immediately
he
call'd
a
Capigi
,
and
commanded
him
to
go
with
four
Mutes
to
such
a
House
,
and
hang
a
Man
,
whom
he
describ'd
,
at
the
Window
;
which
the
Capigi
executed
,
and
Amurath
saw
him
and
was
satisfy'd
.
From
the
Account
I
have
given
you
of
the
Sultan's
Palace
,
you
may
reasonably
conclude
that
the
great
Officers
of
the
Empire
are
but
meanly
lodg'd
.
Most
of
their
Houses
are
inclos'd
in
a
kind
of
Park
,
which
contains
a
Garden
,
and
a
large
Court
border'd
with
Stables
on
one
side
,
and
Kitchens
on
the
other
.
The
finest
I
have
yet
seen
is
that
of
Haly
Bassa
,
Kaimacan
of
Constantinople
,
whither
I
attended
the
Ambassadour
,
when
he
receiv'd
the
first
Audience
of
that
Minister
,
which
was
perform'd
with
the
following
Ceremonies
.
The
Audience
which
the
Caimakan
of
Constantinople
gave
to
Mr.
de
Chateau-neuf
the
French
Ambassador
P.
169
Then
putting
some
odoriferous
Matter
into
a
Censer
,
they
perfum'd
his
Head
and
Cloaths
,
holding
a
large
Cloth
or
Napkin
above
him
to
keep
the
Fumes
from
evaporating
.
After
this
Ceremony
was
over
,
they
brought
Coffee
,
Sherbet
,
and
at
last
the
usual
Presents
,
consisting
of
Twenty
five
Vests
,
which
were
laid
before
the
Kaimacan
.
The
first
was
for
the
Ambassadour
,
and
the
rest
for
his
twenty
four
Attendants
,
who
were
call'd
in
Order
by
his
Steward
.
According
as
our
Names
were
call'd
,
we
stept
forwards
to
receive
the
Vests
from
one
of
the
Kaimacan's
Officers
,
who
first
spread
it
before
the
Ambassadour
,
and
then
put
it
on
our
Shoulders
.
These
Vests
are
such
inconsiderable
Trifles
,
that
the
presenting
of
'em
seems
rather
an
Affront
than
a
Mark
of
Esteem
;
for
they
are
not
worth
above
three
Half-Crowns
a-piece
.
They
are
made
of
Cotton
,
branch'd
with
a
little
Silk
of
several
Colours
,
after
a
very
odd
and
phantastical
Manner
.
The
Ambassadour's
was
not
finer
than
the
rest
,
only
spangl'd
here
and
there
with
a
little
paltry
Gold
.
I
'm
inform'd
that
this
Custom
of
presenting
Vests
is
an
usual
Ceremony
among
the
Turks
,
proceeding
from
their
extream
Desire
of
Presents
,
which
is
the
usual
Foundation
of
their
Kindness
and
Affection
:
for
't
wou'd
be
reckon'd
as
ridiculous
,
as
't
is
in
vain
,
to
endeavour
to
acquire
their
Friendship
,
or
convince
'em
of
the
Sincerity
of
our
Love
by
Protestations
and
other
Marks
of
Affection
,
if
they
be
not
accompany'd
with
Presents
.
I
can
assure
you
that
all
my
Turkish
Acquaintances
are
of
the
same
Humour
:
and
this
Custom
prevails
so
universally
that
every
one
is
oblig'd
to
comply
with
it
.
After
we
had
receiv'd
our
Vests
,
his
Excellency
retir'd
with
the
Kaimacan
to
a
private
Chamber
,
to
discourse
of
secret
Affairs
.
In
the
mean
time
we
had
leisure
to
view
the
Apartments
of
the
House
,
which
were
all
open'd
to
us
;
tho'
we
might
have
contented
our selves
with
the
Sight
of
one
,
since
there
is
no
difference
between
'em
;
and
therefore
't
will
be
an
easie
Task
to
gratifie
your
Curiosity
with
a
Description
of
'em
.
You
must
not
expect
a
long
Catalogue
of
rare
Pictures
,
magnificent
Beds
,
large
Looking-Glasses
,
silver
Tables
,
curious
Hangings
,
and
other
rich
Furniture
:
for
there
are
no
such
Ornaments
in
the
House
.
Four
bare
Walls
,
a
Plafond
or
Cieling
,
and
a
Sopha
are
all
the
Riches
and
all
the
Beauty
of
their
Rooms
.
'T
is
true
their
Plafonds
are
very
fine
,
and
painted
all
over
with
Cochineel
,
Gold
,
and
Azure
:
their
way
of
designing
is
peculiar
to
themselves
,
but
its
Oddness
does
not
make
it
less
pleasant
;
'T
is
a
kind
of
Moresco
,
the
Figures
entering
into
one
another
,
and
appearing
the
same
on
all
sides
;
and
it
must
be
acknowledg'd
that
the
Turks
have
very
fruitful
Inventions
,
for
,
I
believe
,
there
are
a
Million
of
several
Sorts
of
Figures
.
The
middle
of
the
Plafond
is
usually
richer
than
the
rest
,
both
in
Gilding
and
Painting
;
but
't
is
impossible
to
make
you
comprehend
either
of
'em
,
unless
you
had
seen
something
of
a
like
Nature
,
which
,
I
believe
,
you
never
did
,
since
there
is
not
one
Room
in
France
thus
adorn'd
.
The
Walls
are
also
cover'd
with
the
same
sort
of
Paint
instead
of
Hangings
:
and
as
for
the
Sopha
,
I
cannot
represent
it
better
than
as
a
Bench
about
two
Foot
high
,
reaching
from
one
end
of
the
Chamber
to
the
other
,
on
the
Side
next
the
Street
,
under
the
Windows
,
which
begin
a
Foot
higher
in
the
Wall
:
't
is
always
between
ten
and
eleven
Foot
broad
,
and
cover'd
with
Turkish
or
Persian
Tapestry
;
besides
which
there
are
Mats
laid
along
the
Wall
,
4
or
5
foot
broad
,
cover'd
with
Cloth
or
Velvet
,
and
over
these
there
are
large
Cushions
,
stuff'd
with
Hair
or
Wooll
.
These
Cushions
in
great
Mens
Houses
are
either
curiously
embroider'd
,
or
made
of
a
rich
Cloth
of
Gold
:
and
't
is
here
that
the
Turks
sit
night
and
day
cross-legg'd
like
Taylors
,
smoaking
Tabacco
,
and
drinking
Coffee
,
without
any
other
Diversion
than
playing
with
Shells
,
and
sometimes
a
Game
at
Tric-trac
,
or
the
Goose
.
But
since
I
shall
have
occasion
hereafter
to
speak
of
their
Recreations
,
I
shall
at
present
only
give
you
an
Account
of
their
Houses
.
While
the
Ambassadour
was
discoursing
in
private
with
the
Kaimacan
,
I
went
down
to
the
Garden
,
which
is
not
above
100
Paces
long
,
and
60
broad
:
the
Walks
are
gravell'd
,
border'd
in
some
places
with
Orange-Trees
,
and
in
others
with
Fruit-Trees
.
The
square
Beds
in
the
Garden
are
not
cut
and
border'd
like
our
Flower-Plots
,
but
only
separated
with
Divisions
,
and
fill'd
with
Flowers
,
of
which
the
Turks
are
very
curious
.
In
the
Middle
there
is
a
pretty
large
Bason
of
Water
,
from
the
Centre
of
which
there
rises
a
little
Marble
Spire
,
gilt
and
painted
after
the
Turkish
Manner
,
and
casting
forth
Water
thro'
four
Pipes
.
There
are
also
two
other
Basons
at
each
End
of
the
Garden
,
which
are
more
remarkable
for
the
peculiar
Oddness
of
their
Structure
,
than
for
their
Beauty
.
They
are
fram'd
almost
like
Centinels
woodden
Boxes
,
only
they
are
not
quite
so
deep
,
and
there
is
a
kind
of
Chapiter
on
the
Top
,
adorn'd
with
Gilding
and
Figures
.
The
Inside
is
cut
into
the
Form
of
Scallop-Shells
,
on
which
the
Water
falling
makes
a
great
number
of
little
Cascades
that
run
into
a
Bason
,
and
form
another
large
Cascade
,
the
Water
of
which
is
receiv'd
into
a
Sort
of
Tub
or
Vat
,
and
from
thence
thro'
several
Holes
,
runs
into
little
Canals
about
the
Breadth
of
four
Fingers
,
cut
out
of
a
large
Marble
Pavement
that
reaches
from
these
Fountains
to
the
Bason
in
the
Middle
of
the
Garden
.
The
Pavement
was
contriv'd
on
purpose
for
the
Conveniency
of
cutting
out
these
little
winding
Canals
,
which
forming
a
vast
number
of
regular
and
very
pleasant
Figures
,
fall
at
last
into
the
great
Bason
.
This
,
Sir
,
is
the
best
Account
I
can
give
you
of
the
Kaimacan's
Garden
,
which
may
serve
for
all
the
rest
I
have
hitherto
had
occasion
to
see
,
since
there
is
no
great
Difference
between
'em
.
As
for
the
House
,
't
is
a
great
Mass
of
Building
,
the
Front
consisting
of
a
high
and
broad
Stair-Case
divided
by
two
Galleries
that
reach
from
one
end
of
the
House
to
the
other
;
and
the
whole
is
dawb'd
over
very
coarsly
with
a
sort
of
Red
and
Green
Paint
.
Under
the
Stair-Case
there
is
a
large
square
Gate
,
that
leads
into
a
Court
surrounded
with
Galleries
like
the
first
,
and
supported
with
woodden
Pillars
.
Here
the
Kaimacan's
Servants
lodge
,
whose
number
may
amount
to
fifty
or
sixty
,
all
cloath'd
after
the
same
manner
,
with
a
Cafetan
or
white
Coat
,
that
covers
'em
from
Head
to
Foot
.
From
thence
I
went
to
view
the
Stables
,
which
in
this
Country
is
usually
the
best
furnish'd
part
of
the
House
;
and
in
these
I
observ'd
forty
good
Horses
.
After
I
had
satisfi'd
my
Curiosity
with
a
View
of
all
that
was
remarkable
below
,
I
went
up
again
to
my
Companions
,
and
sate
drinking
Sherbet
,
till
the
Ambassadour
came
out
.
The
Kiaia
accompany'd
him
to
the
Foot
of
the
Stairs
,
where
he
receiv'd
him
at
his
coming
,
with
the
same
Officers
that
supported
him
under
the
Arms
;
but
the
Kaimacan
came
not
out
of
his
Chamber
,
which
in
my
Opinion
was
a
little
too
stately
for
a
Person
of
his
Character
.
The
Ambassadour
did
not
pull
off
his
Hat
,
either
at
his
coming
in
or
going
out
:
not
that
he
slighted
the
Kaimacan
,
but
out
of
pure
Compliance
to
the
Manners
of
the
Turks
,
who
never
uncover
their
Heads
before
Persons
for
whom
they
have
the
least
Respect
.
I
had
forgot
to
tell
you
,
that
when
he
enter'd
the
Chamber
all
the
Kaimacan's
Servants
bellow'd
out
thrice
,
Is
alla
Malec
allec
is
alla
:
and
at
his
Departure
he
was
saluted
with
another
Hollow
;
which
is
the
usual
Welcome
and
Farewell
of
the
Turks
to
Persons
whom
they
intend
to
treat
with
particular
Marks
of
Honour
.
I
am
,
SIR
,
Your
&c.
Constantinople
,
Aug.
1690.
LETTER
XIV
.
SIR
,
MY
unexpected
stay
in
this
City
has
procur'd
me
the
splendid
,
or
rather
the
mortifying
sight
of
Sultan
Solyman's
Triumphant
Entry
into
Constantinople
,
at
the
end
of
so
successful
a
Campaign
.
The
Turks
are
so
puff'd
up
with
the
advantageous
Progress
of
their
Arms
this
Summer
,
and
both
their
Contempt
and
Hatred
of
the
Imperialists
are
so
extreamly
heighten'd
that
they
look
upon
'em
as
dead
Doggs
,
ripe
for
destruction
,
and
flatter
themselves
with
the
Chimerical
Hope
of
seeing
Vienna
once
again
Besieg'd
the
next
Campaign
.
The
sight
of
so
great
a
quantity
of
Booty
which
was
brought
from
Hungary
,
and
is
sold
almost
for
nothing
in
this
City
,
has
swoln
their
Pride
to
such
a
height
,
that
they
usually
treat
Christians
with
intolerable
Insolence
,
except
the
French
,
whom
they
call
their
Friends
and
Allies
.
When
they
accidentally
meet
a
Frank
,
whom
they
know
not
,
their
first
Question
is
,
What
Country-man
are
you
?
and
if
he
answers
,
[
](A36827-e28600-b)*
*
I
'm
a
French-man
.
Sono
Francese
,
immediately
they
embrace
him
,
and
patting
him
gently
on
the
Shoulder
,
reply
,
[
](A36827-e28630-b)†
†
We
are
Brothers
.
Siamo
Fratelli
.
The
Inhabitants
of
this
City
have
not
seen
these
many
Years
a
more
Magnificent
Ceremony
than
the
late
Entry
of
the
Grand
Signior
,
which
was
made
in
the
following
Order
:
First
march'd
200
Capigi
,
or
Keepers
of
the
Grand
Signior's
Gate
,
with
tapering
Caps
,
and
a
Cone
,
or
sharp-pointed
piece
of
Cloth
hanging
down
to
their
Noses
;
they
were
Commanded
by
the
Capigi-Bachi
.
After
'em
came
the
Sorlaques
,
or
Foot-Guards
of
the
Body
,
consisting
of
,
old
pick'd
Soldiers
who
expect
Preferment
:
They
wore
tuck'd
up
Gowns
,
carrying
their
Bows
in
their
Left-hand
,
and
Quivers
on
their
Shoulders
:
Their
Caps
were
of
Cloth
,
like
those
of
the
Capigi
,
but
instead
of
a
Cone
they
were
only
adorn'd
with
Plumes
of
Feathers
.
A
Thousand
Janisaries
march'd
after
'em
,
Clad
in
Red
,
with
Zercola's
on
their
Head
,
made
of
a
large
piece
of
Felt
a
Foot
broad
,
which
falls
back
on
their
Shoulders
,
with
a
Cone
or
sharp
point
like
that
of
the
Capigi
:
Every
one
of
'em
carri'd
a
great
Reed
or
Cane
,
eight
foot
long
and
three
round
,
with
an
Ivory
Ball
on
the
top
,
and
their
Aga
walk'd
before
'em
.
The
Janisaries
were
follow'd
by
500
Chiauox's
which
are
Horse
Guards
,
the
last
of
'em
carrying
the
Standards
and
Colours
that
were
taken
from
the
Imperialists
.
They
had
large
Caps
or
Turbants
above
two
Foot
in
circumference
:
They
were
very
well
Mounted
,
and
led
by
the
Chiaoux-Bachi
.
After
'em
march'd
the
Mutefaraca's
,
who
are
a
sort
of
Officers
that
never
go
to
the
War
,
almost
like
our
Reformades
.
Next
came
the
Kisler
Aga
,
accompani'd
by
the
White
and
Black
Eunuchs
,
who
walk'd
on
each
side
of
him
,
to
Guard
the
Sultanesses
,
who
rode
in
eight
very
fine
Coaches
,
but
cou'd
not
be
seen
by
reason
of
a
piece
of
Silk
with
which
the
Glasses
were
cover'd
.
After
them
appear'd
the
unfortunate
Prince
Mahomet
IV.
who
,
with
his
two
Sons
,
was
plac'd
in
a
Coach
close
barr'd
like
a
Prison-Window
,
and
guarded
by
twelve
Chiaoux's
.
Immediately
after
came
the
Sultan's
Great
Officers
,
to
the
number
of
above
200
Persons
,
all
richly
Cloath'd
in
Embroider'd
Vests
,
and
Turbants
,
enrich'd
with
precious
Stones
:
Their
Horses
were
also
adorn'd
with
Silver
Bridles
,
and
very
fine
Foot
Cloaths
,
either
Embroider'd
,
or
of
Cloth
of
Gold
,
trailing
on
the
Ground
.
The
seven
Visiers
of
the
Bench
brought
up
the
Rear
of
this
Magnificent
Troop
,
and
were
follow'd
by
the
Mufti
,
who
was
mounted
on
a
white
Horse
(
but
not
so
stately
as
the
rest
)
and
attended
by
four
Officers
on
Foot
.
Then
came
the
Selictar
carrying
the
Grand
Signior's
Sword
bare
.
At
last
the
Sultan
himself
appear'd
seated
in
a
triumphal
Chariot
,
open
on
all
Sides
,
and
cover'd
all
over
with
silver-gilt
Plates
,
enrich'd
with
counterfeit
Jewels
,
which
nevertheless
cast
a
great
Splendour
.
The
Chariot
was
drawn
by
Eight
spotted
Horses
,
cover'd
with
Red
Velvet
,
embroider'd
with
Gold
,
and
adorn'd
with
gilt
Buckles
.
The
Inside
of
the
Chariot
was
lin'd
with
Velvet
of
the
same
Colour
,
embroider'd
also
with
Gold
;
and
in
it
there
was
a
little
Sopha
,
with
a
large
Cushion
of
a
very
rich
Stuff
,
on
which
the
Sultan
sate
.
This
place
of
the
Chariot
was
cover'd
with
a
very
rich
Canopy
,
like
that
of
a
Coach
,
and
rais'd
so
high
,
that
the
Grand
Signior
might
be
easily
seen
by
the
Spectatours
.
He
is
about
fifty
Years
old
,
of
a
severe
Aspect
,
and
no
very
fine
Shape
.
He
wore
a
large
Turbant
,
almost
like
that
of
the
Chiaoux's
,
adorn'd
with
two
very
magnificent
Aigrets
,
enrich'd
with
precious
Stones
:
His
Vest
was
of
a
very
fine
Stuff
adorn'd
with
Pearls
,
but
much
inferiour
to
the
Coat
that
cost
Fifteen
Millions
,
which
the
King
puts
on
when
he
receives
Ambassadours
.
About
and
after
the
Chair
march'd
a
hundred
Aga's
on
Foot
,
with
their
Officers
and
Commanders
;
and
in
the
last
place
came
Three
hundred
Spahi's
.
At
Night
there
were
great
Illuminations
in
the
Seraglio
and
all
the
Mosquees
:
and
the
People
express'd
their
Joy
by
Feasts
,
Bone-fires
,
and
repeated
Shouts
,
crying
,
without
Intermission
,
Long
live
our
Emperour
,
the
Restorer
of
Monarchy
,
and
the
Prophet's
Darling
.
Monsieur
de
Chateauneuf
,
who
omits
no
occasion
of
pleasing
the
Turks
,
gave
'em
so
many
and
so
expensive
Marks
of
the
Share
he
took
in
their
Joy
,
that
his
Charge
cou'd
not
be
much
less
than
theirs
.
His
Palace
was
almost
cover'd
with
Garlands
of
Myrtle
;
and
at
Night
almost
all
the
People
of
Constantinople
flock'd
thither
to
admire
the
Beauty
of
his
Fire-Works
.
The
French
Ships
signaliz'd
their
Zeal
and
Affection
to
the
Ottoman
Interest
,
according
to
the
Orders
they
receiv'd
from
the
Ambassadour
,
both
by
the
Illuminations
of
which
their
Masts
and
Ropes
were
so
full
,
that
they
seem'd
at
a
distance
to
be
on
fire
,
and
by
repeated
Discharges
of
their
Artillery
.
Besides
the
Ambassadour
prepar'd
a
splendid
Feast
for
several
Turkish
Lords
;
among
whom
was
the
Prince
of
Moldavia
:
There
were
two
Tables
for
twenty
Persons
each
,
those
who
sate
at
one
being
entertain'd
by
himself
,
and
those
at
the
other
by
his
Secretary
Pelleran
.
The
Guests
were
regal'd
with
all
imaginable
Magnificence
both
at
Dinner
and
Supper
;
and
two
Fountains
run
Wine
in
the
Court
,
all
the
while
the
Feast
lasted
,
whither
all
the
Renegado's
,
Greeks
,
and
Mariners
,
came
to
drink
the
Healths
of
the
Two
Glorious
Emperours
,
Lewis
and
Solyman
,
ever
Great
,
and
ever
Victorious
,
pronouncing
the
Word
Vivat
,
according
to
the
Custom
of
the
Country
,
with
loud
and
repeated
Acclamations
,
which
is
the
same
thing
with
the
English
Huzza
.
But
among
all
those
Expressions
of
Joy
,
that
which
scandaliz'd
me
most
,
was
a
Pyramid
of
Fire
,
forty
Foot
high
,
which
burnt
in
the
Court
till
the
Morning
.
For
there
was
an
Illumination
on
the
Top
of
it
representing
on
one
Side
the
Arms
of
France
,
and
on
the
other
,
a
Shield
charg'd
with
Three
fiery
Crescents
.
The
Turks
were
extremely
pleas'd
to
see
with
how
much
Ardour
the
French
espous'd
their
Interests
;
and
since
that
time
have
look'd
more
favourably
upon
our
Countrymen
than
before
.
'T
is
true
that
they
have
been
of
late
so
much
oblig'd
to
France
,
that
they
might
justly
be
reckon'd
the
most
ungrateful
People
in
the
World
,
if
they
were
not
sensible
of
so
many
good
Offices
.
For
without
insisting
on
the
powerful
Diversion
made
by
our
Forces
on
the
Rhine
,
which
has
contributed
so
effectually
to
the
Success
of
their
Arms
;
they
have
,
to
my
certain
Knowledge
,
receiv'd
Supplies
of
Money
from
them
,
which
,
without
pretending
to
determine
the
precise
Sums
,
I
can
assure
you
amount
to
a
very
considerable
Value
;
for
it
has
been
observ'd
in
Ships
that
brought
100000
Piasters
,
there
were
not
20000
for
the
use
of
the
Merchants
.
The
Ambassadour
has
the
most
convenient
way
that
cou'd
be
desir'd
,
to
receive
the
Sums
that
are
design'd
for
secret
Service
:
for
all
the
Money
that
comes
over
to
the
Merchants
must
be
carry'd
to
his
House
,
where
the
Owners
must
afterwards
receive
it
;
so
that
People
are
not
at
all
surpriz'd
,
when
at
the
Arrival
of
a
Ship
they
see
Chests
of
Gold
and
Silver
carry'd
to
him
.
And
besides
,
who
knows
whether
the
King
sends
not
over
Engineers
,
Gunners
,
and
Officers
:
I
have
seen
several
Persons
of
that
Character
here
,
and
I
my self
refus'd
a
Place
which
Monsieur
de
Chateauneuf
wou'd
have
given
me
in
a
Company
of
French
Granadiers
,
consisting
of
200
Men
,
who
are
publickly
levy'd
in
this
City
.
This
puts
me
in
Mind
of
a
remarkable
Accident
that
happen'd
lately
at
Thessalonica
.
Two
Engineers
arriv'd
in
that
Port
,
pretending
to
be
French
Gentlemen
,
and
that
they
travell'd
purely
out
of
Curiosity
:
the
Consul
receiv'd
'em
with
the
highest
Demonstrations
of
Civility
,
and
invited
'em
to
lodge
at
his
House
;
for
't
is
the
usual
Custom
of
all
the
Consuls
in
the
Levant
to
shew
a
great
deal
of
Respect
and
Kindness
to
Strangers
that
seem
to
be
Persons
of
Note
or
Quality
.
But
having
other
conceal'd
Designs
,
they
address'd
themselves
two
Days
after
their
Arrival
,
to
a
Greek
that
wore
a
I●ruggoman's
Cap
,
and
pray'd
him
to
carry
'em
to
the
●assa
,
and
to
interpret
for
'em
,
without
acquainting
the
Consul
.
The
Greek
,
who
was
glad
of
any
Opportunity
to
earn
Money
,
embrac'd
their
Proposal
very
chearfully
,
and
accompany'd
'em
to
the
Bassa's
House
,
where
they
declar'd
their
Profession
,
and
offer'd
him
their
Service
,
but
without
intimating
in
the
least
that
they
were
willing
to
renounce
their
Religion
.
The
Turkish
Officer
receiv'd
'em
very
favourably
,
and
promis'd
to
recommend
'em
to
some
Person
at
Constantinople
,
who
wou'd
quickly
procure
'em
an
Employment
suitable
to
their
Inclinations
.
Thus
they
return'd
to
the
Consul's
House
very
well
satisfy'd
with
the
Bassa's
Civility
:
but
the
Interpreter's
Conscience
not
permitting
him
to
have
a
Hand
in
assisting
the
declar'd
Enemies
of
his
Religion
,
he
discover'd
the
whole
Intrigue
to
the
Consul
,
without
concealing
the
Arguments
and
earnest
Intreaties
they
us'd
to
oblige
him
to
Secresie
.
Immediately
the
honest
Consul
believing
that
't
wou'd
be
an
acceptable
Piece
of
Service
both
to
God
and
the
King
,
to
prevent
the
wicked
Designs
of
his
Guests
,
order'd
'em
to
be
apprehended
,
and
sent
back
to
France
in
Fetters
.
'T
is
plain
that
his
Intentions
were
good
,
and
that
he
could
not
be
justly
blam'd
for
taking
that
Course
;
but
he
quickly
found
,
to
his
Cost
,
that
they
had
more
potent
Friends
than
he
imagin'd
,
for
after
they
had
made
their
Complaints
,
he
receiv'd
a
severe
Reprimand
from
the
Marquess
de
Seignelay
,
and
was
in
danger
of
being
turn'd
out
of
his
Office
.
The
Number
of
Deserters
that
come
over
to
the
Turks
is
almost
incredible
.
There
are
at
present
so
many
of
'em
in
the
Service
,
that
there
might
be
several
compleat
French
Regiments
in
the
Ottoman
Army
.
I
know
that
such
a
Design
has
been
several
times
propos'd
to
the
Ambassadour
by
the
Grand
Visier
,
Kopergli
Oglou
,
but
the
little
Regard
he
still
preserves
to
the
external
Rules
of
Decency
,
has
hitherto
to
restrain'd
him
from
giving
his
Consent
.
Neither
do
I
see
any
Reason
why
the
Turks
shou'd
be
offended
at
his
seeming
Niceness
,
since
't
is
not
at
all
prejudicial
to
their
Interest
:
For
while
their
main
Design
is
serv'd
,
they
may
very
well
dispense
with
a
needless
Piece
of
Formality
,
and
the
French
Soldiers
fight
as
well
when
they
are
dispers'd
among
the
Ottoman
Troops
,
as
if
they
were
all
united
in
a
distinct
Body
.
That
which
allures
'em
to
come
over
in
such
vast
Numbers
,
is
the
favourable
Treatment
they
receive
at
their
Arrival
:
about
eight
Days
ago
I
saw
a
hundred
and
fifty
of
'em
march
thro'
this
City
,
with
Drums
beating
,
and
Colours
flying
,
I
mean
a
Piece
of
White
Cloth
,
which
in
this
Countrey
,
as
well
as
upon
the
Sea
,
is
reckon'd
the
Banner
of
France
.
Prisoners
of
all
Nations
,
except
the
Germans
,
enjoy
the
same
Priviledges
,
provided
they
claim
his
Majesty's
Protection
.
'T
is
true
there
are
several
pretended
Deserters
,
who
carry
on
their
hidden
Designs
under
so
specious
a
Disguise
:
Nor
have
the
Turks
yet
learn'd
Circumspection
,
tho'
they
have
been
so
often
deceiv'd
.
I
cou'd
tell
you
twenty
Stories
of
this
Nature
,
but
I
shall
content
my self
with
relating
one
Instance
,
to
convince
you
that
the
Emperour
has
as
good
Spies
as
the
King
of
France
.
About
the
End
of
the
last
Year
,
immediately
after
the
Death
of
the
Ambassadour
Girardin
,
one
Vanel
came
over
as
a
Deserter
to
the
Grand
Visier's
Army
in
Hungary
,
pretending
to
be
a
French
Gentleman
,
who
was
taken
Prisoner
on
the
Rhine
,
and
forc'd
to
serve
as
a
Voluntier
in
the
Emperour's
Army
,
which
he
left
,
assoon
as
he
found
a
favourable
Occasion
to
make
his
Escape
.
But
not
contenting
himself
to
remain
as
a
Spy
in
the
Army
,
he
had
the
Confidence
to
assume
the
Character
of
Agent
of
France
,
till
the
Arrival
of
the
Ambassadour
whom
the
King
had
nam'd
.
The
Grand
Visier
seeing
a
Man
whose
very
aspect
seem'd
to
answer
for
his
Honesty
;
and
besides
,
perceiving
that
he
made
a
great
Figure
,
was
so
far
from
suspecting
him
,
that
he
own'd
him
as
Agent
:
So
that
during
the
whole
Winter
he
manag'd
the
King's
Affairs
with
as
much
Authority
as
if
he
had
been
empower'd
with
a
Commission
from
Versailles
.
'T
is
true
,
he
seem'd
to
be
very
jealous
of
the
Honour
and
Interest
of
the
Nation
;
but
in
private
he
endeavour'd
to
perswade
the
Grand
Visier
that
the
only
way
to
preserve
the
Ottoman
Empire
,
was
to
hasten
the
conclusion
of
a
Peace
with
the
Emperour
;
and
in
the
mean
time
he
found
out
ways
to
acquaint
the
Court
of
Vienna
with
all
the
Transactions
at
the
Port.
This
cunning
Spy
had
the
Art
to
play
so
difficult
a
Game
with
so
much
dexterity
and
success
,
that
he
gain'd
the
esteem
and
affection
both
of
the
Grand
Visier
and
Sultan
,
from
whom
he
receiv'd
considerable
Presents
.
And
even
the
French
had
at
last
so
good
an
Opinion
of
him
,
that
they
scrupl'd
not
to
address
themselves
to
him
on
all
occasions
,
as
they
wou'd
have
done
to
an
Ambassador
.
So
that
he
thought
his
Credit
so
well
established
,
that
he
might
boldly
expect
the
arrival
of
Monsieur
de
Chateauneuf
,
who
was
coming
to
perswade
the
Visier
to
continue
the
War
against
the
Empire
.
Vanel
went
to
meet
him
a
days
Journey
beyond
Sophia
,
and
told
him
,
that
since
Fortune
had
engag'd
him
in
the
Ottoman
Service
,
during
the
Vacancy
of
the
Embassy
,
he
thought
himself
oblig'd
by
the
Honour
he
had
to
be
a
French
Gentleman
,
to
do
what
Service
he
cou'd
to
the
Nation
,
as
he
had
actually
done
for
several
Months
,
and
was
ready
to
give
him
an
exact
account
of
all
his
Proceedings
.
Afterwards
he
went
with
the
Ambassador
to
the
Visier
,
who
gave
him
so
favourable
a
Character
,
that
Monsieur
de
Chateauneuf
either
did
not
,
or
seem'd
not
to
doubt
of
his
Zeal
and
Affection
to
the
King's
Service
.
However
,
't
is
probable
,
that
he
was
not
entirely
satisfi'd
with
his
Conduct
,
and
that
he
wrote
to
several
Places
for
better
Information
concerning
him
.
For
having
one
Evening
receiv'd
a
Pacquet
in
Vanel's
Presence
,
that
subtle
Spy
fearing
that
the
Intelligence
might
concern
him
,
adventur'd
to
peep
over
the
Ambassador's
Shoulder
,
while
he
was
reading
the
Letters
,
and
perceiving
that
they
gave
a
very
suspicious
Account
of
him
,
he
resolv'd
to
prevent
the
danger
that
threaten'd
him
by
a
sudden
Flight
.
Next
Morning
he
rose
as
soon
as
the
day
began
to
appear
,
and
went
immediately
to
one
D'
Etanchot
,
a
French
Captain
in
Count
Teckely's
Troops
,
who
was
his
intimate
Friend
:
He
accosted
him
with
a
Melancholic
Air
,
and
intreated
him
to
carry
him
to
Count.
Teckely's
Army
,
where
he
had
some
business
to
dispatch
that
requir'd
all
possible
expedition
.
D'
Etanchot
reply'd
,
That
he
was
ready
to
serve
him
,
and
that
he
would
immediately
go
along
with
him
after
he
had
receiv'd
the
Ambassador's
Orders
.
Vanel
,
who
dreaded
nothing
more
than
the
discovery
of
his
Design
,
conjur'd
his
Friend
not
to
insist
on
that
piece
of
Formality
;
and
to
engage
him
the
more
effectually
to
comply
with
his
Desires
,
he
offer'd
him
1000
Pistoles
,
promising
to
give
him
as
much
more
at
the
end
of
his
Journey
.
D'
Etanchot
was
extreamly
surpriz'd
at
his
Earnestness
and
Impatience
,
and
perceiv'd
by
the
great
Offers
he
made
him
,
that
the
business
was
of
greater
Importance
than
at
first
he
imagin'd
:
His
Fidelity
to
his
Prince
was
stronger
than
his
Affection
to
his
Friend
,
and
at
last
he
told
him
plainly
,
that
he
wou'd
not
go
with
him
unless
he
wou'd
suffer
him
to
ask
the
Ambassador's
Permission
before
his
departure
.
Then
Vanel
seeing
himself
discover'd
,
and
fearing
Torture
more
than
Death
,
which
he
knew
was
inavoidable
,
lest
he
shou'd
not
be
able
to
endure
the
extream
violence
of
the
Pain
,
without
divulging
his
Secret
,
he
resolv'd
to
be
his
own
Executioner
;
and
suffering
D'
Etanchot
to
walk
some
paces
before
him
,
without
speaking
a
Word
,
he
pull'd
a
Pistol
out
of
his
Pocket
,
charg'd
with
three
Bullets
,
and
shot
himself
thro'
the
Head
.
His
Friend
surpriz'd
at
the
unexpected
noise
,
look'd
back
,
and
seeing
him
lie
groveling
on
the
Ground
,
and
wallowing
in
his
own
Blood
,
run
immediately
to
acquaint
the
Ambassador
with
the
Tragical
Accident
,
who
at
first
cou'd
not
believe
him
,
but
afterwards
suspecting
him
to
be
the
Murderer
,
order'd
him
to
be
secur'd
:
Then
he
went
with
several
of
his
Servants
,
to
the
place
where
this
unfortunate
Person
lay
,
and
finding
him
still
alive
,
tho'
very
weak
,
he
ask'd
him
,
How
he
was
;
Optimé
,
reply'd
Vanel
,
for
they
us'd
to
discourse
in
Latin
.
Then
the
Ambassador
enquir'd
,
who
put
him
in
that
condition
,
I
did
,
answer'd
he
:
What
mov'd
you
to
such
an
act
,
reply'd
the
Ambassador
;
Because
,
said
he
,
I
was
weary
of
Life
.
Afterwards
the
Ambassador
ask'd
him
several
Questions
concerning
the
place
of
his
Birth
,
and
his
design
in
coming
hither
,
but
cou'd
not
obtain
any
satisfactory
Answer
;
and
(
which
is
hardly
credible
)
he
endur'd
the
most
exquisitely
cruel
Torments
they
cou'd
invent
,
without
making
the
least
discovery
,
and
even
was
so
little
daunted
,
that
while
he
lay
under
the
extremity
of
the
Torture
,
'T
is
in
vain
,
said
he
to
the
Ambassador
,
to
torment
me
thus
,
you
shall
never
know
more
than
I
have
already
told
you
.
In
short
,
he
gave
so
many
Marks
of
an
invincible
Courage
and
Resolution
,
that
I
cou'd
hardly
forbear
comparing
him
to
Socrates
,
or
Minutius
Scaevola
,
if
I
had
not
a
natural
reluctancy
to
praise
Men
of
his
Profession
.
Thus
he
died
of
his
Wounds
,
and
left
no
Papers
of
consequence
,
that
cou'd
discover
his
Intrigue
:
But
the
Ambassador
and
his
Men
seiz'd
on
ten
or
twelve
good
Horses
,
and
above
25000
Livres
in
Gold
that
were
found
in
his
Possession
.
I
shall
conclude
this
Letter
with
telling
you
,
that
I
'm
resolv'd
to
depart
with
the
first
fair
Wind
for
Alexandria
,
in
a
Vessel
belonging
to
Ciotad
,
Commanded
by
Captain
Carbonneau
,
who
is
an
old
Seaman
,
and
perfectly
well
acquainted
with
all
the
parts
of
the
Mediterranean
.
But
I
'm
afraid
he
will
stand
in
need
of
all
his
Experience
to
bring
us
safe
to
our
design'd
Harbour
;
for
this
is
the
most
dangerous
season
of
the
Year
.
However
,
I
have
stay'd
so
long
in
Constantinople
,
that
,
tho'
the
Voyage
were
more
hazardous
,
I
cou'd
willingly
adventure
on
't
.
I
am
,
SIR
,
Your
&c.
Constantinople
,
Nov.
1690.
LETTER
XV.
SIR
,
STorms
and
Contrary
Winds
are
the
main
,
and
almost
the
only
Objects
of
a
Traveller's
Fear
at
Sea
:
And
Yet
I
reckon
my self
extreamly
oblig'd
to
the
Bad
Weather
we
met
with
about
eight
days
ago
,
since
it
forc'd
our
Captain
to
stop
at
the
famous
Island
of
Scio
,
where
we
still
continue
.
The
Greeks
,
and
in
general
all
the
Christian
Inhabitants
,
enjoy
so
many
Priviledges
,
and
retain
so
many
Marks
of
their
ancient
Liberty
,
that
if
I
did
not
sometimes
see
a
Turbant
,
I
shou'd
almost
forget
that
I
am
still
in
Turkey
.
The
whole
compass
of
the
Island
does
not
amount
to
100
Miles
;
yet
there
are
above
200
Churches
in
it
,
and
at
least
30
Monasteries
belonging
to
the
Greek
and
Latin
Christians
,
who
perform
their
several
Rites
without
the
least
disturbance
.
They
are
suffer'd
to
walk
in
Procession
about
the
Streets
,
as
in
France
;
tho'
there
is
nothing
more
odious
to
the
Turks
than
that
Ceremony
:
And
which
is
still
more
remarkable
,
the
Greeks
,
who
,
in
all
other
parts
of
the
Ottoman
Empire
are
reputed
Slaves
,
live
here
under
the
Protection
of
a
Magistrate
,
who
has
the
Title
of
Consul
.
This
Happiness
,
which
ought
to
be
so
much
the
dearer
to
the
Greeks
of
this
Island
,
because
't
is
peculiar
to
themselves
,
is
only
a
continuation
of
the
Favours
bestow'd
on
'em
by
Mahomet
II.
when
he
made
himself
Master
of
Greece
.
For
the
Sciots
perceiving
that
't
wou'd
be
in
vain
to
resist
an
Enemy
who
had
lately
taken
Constantinople
from
the
Palaeologi
,
and
was
still
Victorious
in
all
his
Attempts
,
resolv'd
to
mitigate
his
Fury
by
a
voluntary
submission
,
and
own'd
themselves
his
Subjects
,
perhaps
before
he
thought
of
Attaking
'em
.
Mahomet
was
so
well
satisfi'd
with
this
Mark
of
their
Affection
,
that
he
granted
'em
several
advantageous
Priviledges
which
they
still
enjoy
.
For
the
Turks
are
very
Religious
observers
of
their
Promises
to
their
own
Subjects
;
tho'
they
scruple
not
to
violate
Treaties
concluded
with
Neighbouring
Princes
,
especially
Christians
,
and
Heretical
Mahometans
,
such
as
the
Persians
,
of
whom
the
Turks
have
almost
as
bad
an
Opinion
as
the
Roman
Catholicks
have
of
Protestants
;
because
the
Persians
embrace
the
Doctrine
of
one
Haly
,
who
pretended
to
reform
the
Mahometan
Religion
,
as
Luther
and
Calvin
have
Reform'd
the
Christian
.
At
that
time
the
Island
was
possess'd
by
the
Justiniani
,
with
the
Title
of
a
Principality
,
under
the
Protection
of
the
Genoese
,
who
were
then
Masters
of
many
fine
Countries
in
Natolia
,
as
it
appears
by
the
Escutcheons
and
Arms
of
the
Republic
,
which
are
still
to
be
seen
almost
at
every
end
of
a
Field
.
There
is
but
one
City
in
the
Island
,
and
that
a
very
small
one
,
tho'
it
has
eight
Gates
.
The
Streets
are
broad
enough
for
Coaches
;
and
the
beauty
of
the
old
Houses
is
a
sign
of
the
richness
and
splendor
of
their
ancient
Possessors
.
The
Castle
is
not
much
less
than
the
City
,
and
Commands
both
that
and
the
Port
:
Yet
some
Years
ago
the
Marquis
Du
Quesne
had
the
Courage
to
attack
some
Pirates
who
retir●d
under
its
Walls
,
and
fir'd
above
fifty
Broad-sides
into
the
City
,
because
the
Bassa
made
a
shew
of
resisting
him
.
This
attempt
caus'd
so
great
a
Consternation
among
the
Inhabitants
,
that
their
fears
continue
even
after
the
Marquiss's
Death
,
and
they
still
tremble
when
they
hear
his
Name
mention'd
.
The
French
are
very
proud
of
this
Expedition
,
tho'
't
is
certain
they
have
no
great
reason
to
boast
of
it
,
since
it
cost
the
Nation
100000
Crowns
,
which
Fabre
,
the
French
Agent
,
pay'd
to
the
Grand
Visier
.
This
was
,
in
my
Opinion
,
a
sufficient
reparation
to
the
Turks
;
and
there
was
no
Honour
got
by
so
vigorous
an
Action
,
but
that
which
is
due
to
the
Memory
of
the
brave
Man
that
perform'd
it
.
'T
is
equally
difficult
to
enter
the
Port
,
and
to
get
out
of
it
,
as
our
Captain
has
found
to
his
cost
:
For
the
charge
of
maintaining
the
Ships
Company
amounts
at
least
to
60
Livres
a
day
,
and
I
believe
he
wou'd
willingly
give
30
Louis
d'
Ors
to
be
at
Sea
again
.
The
Government
of
Scio
is
a
very
considerable
Post
,
and
the
Bassa
is
oftentimes
advanc'd
to
the
Dignity
of
Grand
Visier
.
'T
is
not
above
a
Year
since
Kopergli
Oglou
was
remov'd
from
this
place
,
and
made
Visier
after
the
Death
of
Ismael
.
He
has
under
him
a
Kiaia
,
a
Kady
,
a
Vaivoide
,
and
a
Receiver
of
Customs
,
as
all
other
Bassa's
have
.
The
Last
of
these
Officers
has
more
Employment
here
than
in
most
other
places
,
by
reason
of
the
Mastic
that
grows
in
this
Island
,
better
and
more
plentiful
than
in
any
other
part
of
the
World
.
There
are
above
a
Thousand
Chests
of
it
gather'd
every
Year
,
each
of
which
contains
Three
Hundred
Weight
,
and
the
total
Value
amounts
to
above
200000
Crowns
.
But
the
Inhabitants
are
not
much
enrich'd
by
so
considerable
a
Trade
:
For
they
are
not
only
oblig'd
to
pay
one
half
of
the
Mastic
by
way
of
Tribute
,
but
must
sell
the
rest
at
a
very
low
rate
to
the
Receiver
of
Customs
.
'T
is
a
white
odoriferous
Gumm
,
that
runs
in
the
Spring
out
of
little
holes
which
are
made
in
the
Bark
of
a
small
,
weak
,
and
twining
Shrub
that
creeps
along
the
Ground
,
as
Vines
wou'd
do
if
they
were
not
supported
.
I
have
not
hitherto
had
occasion
to
see
any
remarkable
Church
in
this
Island
,
but
that
which
is
call'd
Niaomai
:
'T
is
a
very
ancient
Building
,
and
adorn'd
with
a
piece
of
Mosaic
Work
,
like
that
of
Sancta
Sophia
.
I
will
not
trouble
you
with
the
Story
of
its
Miraculous
Image
,
since
all
these
Legends
are
only
the
same
Tale
,
repeated
with
some
small
alterations
.
The
Greeks
believe
and
maintain
these
Impostures
with
a
great
deal
of
Zeal
;
and
even
the
Turks
who
abhorr
the
Christian
Religion
,
worse
than
Magic
,
are
sometimes
cheated
by
'em
:
For
when
they
hear
that
one
of
the
Saints
cures
such
a
Distemper
,
they
procure
Masses
to
be
said
,
and
present
Candles
with
as
much
Devotion
as
the
most
Superstitious
Greek
.
I
shall
take
this
occasion
to
relate
an
accident
that
happen'd
not
long
ago
in
this
place
;
and
perhaps
you
will
not
think
your
time
ill
imploy'd
in
reading
so
odd
and
diverting
a
Story
.
You
have
doubtless
heard
of
St.
Anthony
of
Padua
,
who
is
the
Padrone
Singularo
of
all
the
Italians
,
and
has
acquir'd
so
great
a
Reputation
of
working
Miracles
,
that
tho'
he
was
a
declar'd
Papist
,
and
more
than
that
,
a
Monk
of
the
Order
of
St.
Francis
;
the
Greeks
have
plac'd
him
among
their
Tutelar
Saints
,
and
sing
Kyrie
Eleison's
to
him
with
as
much
Devotion
as
to
St.
Polycarp
himself
.
He
has
a
Magnificent
Chapel
in
this
place
,
and
in
it
a
Wooden
Image
,
which
is
very
well
painted
,
gilt
,
and
crown'd
,
and
wants
neither
He
nor
She
Votaries
in
abundance
.
His
Miracles
are
the
only
subject
of
the
common
Talk
.
Some
own
themselves
oblig'd
to
him
for
Husbands
,
and
others
for
Wives
;
sometimes
he
heals
a
broken
Leg
,
and
saves
others
from
Ship-wrack
;
and
,
in
a
word
,
I
know
not
one
Person
here
who
has
not
receiv'd
some
Marks
of
his
Favour
.
'T
is
true
,
he
's
apt
to
grow
sullen
,
and
woe
be
to
the
poor
Suppliants
when
little
St.
Anthony
takes
the
pet
,
for
he
'll
e'en
let
'em
cry
their
Eyes
out
,
without
deigning
to
take
notice
of
'em
:
However
,
there
is
no
Disease
without
its
Remedy
,
and
a
few
smart
Lashes
about
the
Shoulders
usually
cures
him
of
the
Spleen
.
But
when
the
Distemper
is
very
stubborn
,
and
the
Dose
of
the
Whip
proves
ineffectual
,
they
either
turn
him
out
of
his
Lodging
,
and
make
him
lie
abroad
in
the
Wind
and
Rain
,
or
dip
him
ten
or
twelve
times
in
Water
,
with
a
great
Stone
at
his
Neck
,
which
always
produces
the
desir'd
effect
,
and
makes
the
little
Gentleman
as
Complaisant
as
they
can
wish
.
One
of
the
Turks
in
the
Castle
,
who
had
ventur'd
all
his
Stock
on
Board
a
Saique
,
and
was
afraid
of
losing
it
either
by
Storm
or
Piracy
,
resolv'd
to
steal
St.
Anthony
,
of
whom
he
had
heard
so
many
Wonders
,
and
either
by
fair
or
foul
means
to
make
him
preserve
his
Goods
.
He
waited
some
time
for
a
convenient
opportunity
to
put
his
design
in
execution
;
and
one
day
perceiving
that
there
were
none
in
the
Church
but
himself
,
he
hid
the
miraculous
Image
under
his
Vest
,
and
carri'd
it
away
undiscover'd
.
As
soon
as
he
came
home
he
set
it
in
the
most
honourable
Place
of
his
House
,
adorn'd
it
with
Flowers
,
and
kept
two
Wax
Candles
perpetually
burning
before
it
;
addreffing
himself
to
it
every
day
with
a
great
deal
of
Reverence
,
and
humbly
acquainting
it
that
his
whole
Estate
was
on
board
the
Saique
;
and
that
the
Loss
of
that
wou'd
entirely
ruine
him
and
his
Family
.
Thus
he
continu'd
as
long
as
he
might
reasonably
hope
that
the
Saique
was
safe
;
but
when
the
time
was
expir'd
,
in
which
he
expected
to
hear
of
its
Return
,
he
took
away
the
Flowers
and
Candles
,
and
began
to
treat
the
Image
very
roughly
,
beating
it
every
day
,
and
threatning
a
worse
Usage
,
if
he
shou'd
find
that
it
had
neglected
his
Saique
.
Thou
infamous
Christian
,
said
he
,
think'st
thou
to
mock
a
Musulman
,
whose
Slave
thou
art
not
worthy
to
be
?
By
Mahomet
,
if
thou
dost
not
restore
my
Saique
,
I
'll
beat
thee
to
Pieces
.
In
the
mean
time
both
the
Greeks
and
Romanists
were
extremely
griev'd
for
the
Loss
of
their
Saint
:
and
their
Consternation
was
the
greater
,
because
they
cou'd
not
imagine
him
to
be
stoll'n
away
,
since
he
was
only
made
of
Wood.
The
Cordeliers
had
not
the
least
Share
in
the
common
Affliction
;
but
since
they
have
an
admirable
Faculty
of
improving
every
thing
to
the
best
Advantage
,
they
declar'd
publickly
that
the
Saint
was
not
able
longer
to
endure
the
Coldness
of
the
Peoples
Devotion
,
and
had
therefore
withdrawn
his
Presence
from
among
'em
.
And
even
an
old
Father
dream'd
that
S.
Anthony
appear'd
to
him
,
and
said
,
My
Son
,
I
have
left
this
City
,
because
I
was
no
longer
able
to
be
a
Witness
of
the
Crimes
that
are
daily
committed
in
it
,
and
the
Want
of
Love
to
God
,
and
Zeal
to
his
Service
.
The
good
Man
related
his
Dream
to
the
People
,
and
exhorted
'em
to
recall
the
Saint
by
Prayers
,
Vows
,
and
above
all
,
by
a
great
number
of
Masses
.
At
last
the
Turk
heard
of
the
safe
Arrival
of
the
Saique
with
his
Goods
,
so
that
thinking
himself
oblig'd
in
Conscience
to
release
the
Saint
out
of
his
Prison
,
he
carry'd
him
back
with
a
great
deal
of
Honour
,
and
told
the
whole
Story
.
The
Image
was
very
joyfully
receiv'd
by
the
Christians
,
who
look'd
upon
this
as
a
New
Miracle
;
which
re-kindl'd
their
Devotion
to
such
a
Degree
,
that
it
can
never
be
more
ardent
than
't
is
at
present
:
the
Turk
also
gave
100
Piasters
,
as
an●
Acknowledgment
of
the
Favour
he
had
receiv'd
,
and
the
Fathers
order'd
the
Money
to
be
cast
into
a
silver
Chain
,
with
which
they
fasten'd
the
Image
,
to
prevent
its
being
stoll'n
hereafter
:
for
they
consider'd
that
People
are
always
apt
to
follow
a
bad
Example
,
and
that
they
might
perhaps
miss
their
Saint
when
they
shou'd
have
most
need
of
him
.
This
Accident
has
convinc'd
me
of
a
Truth
I
cou'd
never
believe
before
,
I
mean
that
Superstition
may
bear
such
an
absolute
Sway
in
the
Minds
of
those
who
are
under
its
Power
,
that
even
Turks
and
Christians
may
join
together
in
some
Rites
of
Devotion
.
I
confess
I
was
so
far
from
giving
Credit
to
Relations
of
this
Nature
,
that
I
could
hardly
believe
my
own
Eyes
on
a
like
Occasion
at
Lampedusa
,
where
we
touch'd
in
our
Voyage
to
Malta
.
But
since
I
am
now
of
another
Opinion
,
I
shall
take
this
Occasion
to
acquaint
you
with
an
Observation
I
made
there
,
which
I
durst
not
mention
so
long
as
I
thought
it
impossible
.
There
is
in
that
Island
a
little
Chapel
dedicated
to
the
Virgin
,
in
which
there
is
an
Altar
,
and
a
Coffin
with
a
Turbant
laid
upon
it
,
which
is
usually
call'd
Mahomet's
Tomb.
Both
Turks
and
Christians
have
so
great
a
Veneration
for
this
Chapel
,
that
they
never
pass
it
by
without
leaving
Money
,
Victuals
,
or
some
other
Offering
.
At
our
Arrival
we
found
two
large
and
fresh
Pastaiques
,
a
Sequin
of
Gold
,
some
silver
Aspers
,
and
small
Coin
of
Malta
,
to
which
our
Captain
added
a
French
Piece
of
Three-pence
half-peny
.
Our
Pilot
told
me
that
these
Offerings
were
design'd
for
the
Relief
of
poor
Slaves
,
who
oftentimes
escap'd
thither
from
Malta
and
Afric
;
adding
that
the
Place
was
so
Sacred
and
Miraculous
that
none
but
Slaves
durst
take
any
of
these
things
from
the
Altar
;
or
,
if
they
did
,
that
they
could
not
possibly
get
out
of
the
Island
.
He
related
also
several
Instances
of
these
Miracles
,
but
all
his
Arguments
and
Stories
could
not
hinder
me
from
eating
one
of
the
Pastaiques
;
for
the
Weather
was
very
hot
,
and
you
know
that
those
who
are
not
accustom'd
to
the
Sea
are
usually
very
desirous
of
Fruit.
To
return
to
Scio.
I
went
t'other
day
to
see
a
Place
call'd
the
Schools
of
Homer
,
tho'
according
to
all
probability
there
were
never
any
Schools
in
it
.
I
incline
rather
to
believe
that
't
was
formerly
a
Place
where
Sacrifices
were
offer'd
to
the
God
Pan
,
or
some
other
Rural
Deity
:
for
I
saw
nothing
but
a
square
Altar
cut
out
of
a
Rock
,
on
the
Shore
,
with
some
decay'd
Basso-Relievo's
on
the
Sides
,
among
which
you
may
distinguish
the
Representation
of
an
Oxe
,
Wolf
,
Sbeep
,
and
Rabbet
,
besides
some
other
Beasts
which
are
less
distinct
.
Not
far
from
thence
I
saw
a
paltry
Village
,
where
they
assur'd
me
Homer
was
born
:
but
Smyrna
pretends
a
better
Title
to
the
Honour
of
being
the
Birth-place
of
that
great
Man
.
I
observ'd
nothing
else
remarkable
in
this
Island
,
except
their
Manner
of
Living
,
which
is
extremely
free
:
for
they
give
and
receive
Visits
,
make
Entertainments
,
and
the
Women
sit
at
the
Doors
of
the
Houses
,
and
walk
with
Young
Men
to
the
Fields
,
with
as
much
Liberty
as
if
they
were
in
France
.
Besides
they
are
of
a
very
sociable
Humour
,
and
any
Frenchman
,
who
is
Master
of
a
tolerable
Stock
of
Wit
,
may
quickly
find
a
Mistress
,
and
even
sometimes
an
advantageous
Match
in
this
Place
.
For
't
is
the
highest
Ambition
of
the
Women
of
this
Island
to
marry
a
Frank
;
both
because
they
are
naturally
of
a
freer
Temper
than
the
Men
of
the
Country
,
and
are
not
subject
to
the
Grand
Signior
,
nor
consequently
pay
any
Avanies
,
Taxes
,
or
Imposts
;
which
are
two
very
considerable
Advantages
.
This
is
the
only
Island
in
the
Levant
,
where
the
Custom
of
wearing
long
Garments
does
not
prevail
:
for
the
Sciots
retain'd
the
Fashion
us'd
by
the
Franks
,
after
their
Subjection
to
the
Turks
.
They
still
use
Doublets
or
Wast-coats
,
Breeches
,
and
Shooes
;
and
besides
they
wear
their
Hair
long
:
but
we
have
chang'd
so
many
Fashions
since
that
time
,
that
they
who
have
still
kept
that
which
was
then
in
use
appear
very
ridiculous
at
present
.
Their
Hats
have
broad
Brims
,
not
cock'd
up
,
and
tapering
Crowns
,
somewhat
resembling
a
Sugar-Loaf
:
the
Sleeves
of
their
Doublets
are
wide
and
open
,
but
close
at
the
Wrist
:
their
Breeches
are
open
below
,
edg'd
with
Ribbons
,
and
their
Drawers
appear
under
'em
:
their
Shooes
have
large
open
Ears
,
and
are
sharp-pointed
at
the
Toe
,
as
they
were
usually
made
in
our
Country
about
Twenty
Years
ago
.
The
Womens
Habit
is
not
different
from
that
which
is
us'd
by
the
Common
People
in
Bretagne
,
Maine
,
Normandy
,
and
some
other
Parts
of
France
.
For
they
wear
a
kind
of
short
Cassock
,
fasten'd
with
a
Lace
before
,
and
over
that
another
of
Silk
Stuff
,
of
which
there
is
a
great
deal
made
in
the
Island
.
This
Cassock
,
which
the
Maids
of
my
Country
wou'd
call
a
Waste-coat
,
reaches
not
below
the
Middle
of
the
Thigh
,
and
the
Sleeves
which
are
not
very
long
,
are
tied
up
a
little
below
the
Bending
of
the
Arm
,
for
the
Conveniency
of
wearing
Silken
Gloves
,
which
are
also
made
in
Scio
,
and
are
not
unhandsome
.
Besides
they
have
a
kind
of
Petty-Coat
,
in
which
there
are
(
I
believe
)
thirty
Ells
of
Stuff
,
for
't
is
pleited
quite
round
,
except
on
the
Fore-part
,
and
these
Foldings
are
all
of
an
equal
Depth
,
and
sew'd
together
:
this
Petty-coat
is
so
short
,
that
it
hides
not
above
one
half
of
their
Legs
:
and
they
are
always
very
careful
to
wear
fine
and
tight
Stockins
,
lest
that
which
appears
shou'd
give
a
Man
an
ill
Opinion
of
what
is
conceal'd
.
In
their
Head-Dress
they
differ
both
from
the
Franks
and
Levantines
;
for
it
consists
only
in
a
Piece
of
Cloth
wrapp'd
about
their
Heads
.
There
are
in
this
Island
several
Families
that
pretend
to
Nobility
,
and
even
some
that
draw
their
Pedigree
from
the
Justiniani
;
but
their
Education
,
and
Way
of
Living
,
is
so
unsuitable
to
their
high
Birth
,
that
't
wou'd
seem
altogether
incredible
,
if
it
were
not
attested
by
all
the
Inhabitants
of
the
Island
.
I
am
,
SIR
,
Your
&c.
Scio
,
Decemb.
1690.
LETTER
XVI
.
SIR
,
WE
set
said
from
Scio
on
the
20
th
.
of
the
last
Month
,
and
two
Days
after
were
in
the
Height
of
Stanchio
,
a
little
Island
,
famous
for
the
Birth
of
Hippocrates
,
and
the
celebrated
Apelles
;
and
for
a
Tree
of
such
prodigious
Bigness
,
that
its
Shadow
is
large
enough
to
cover
150
Men.
I
cannot
give
you
a
more
particular
Account
of
that
Island
,
since
we
stopt
not
there
,
but
kept
on
our
Course
till
we
arriv'd
at
Rhodes
on
Christmass-Day
:
Instead
of
a
large
Description
of
this
Island
,
you
must
content
your self
with
an
Account
of
what
Observations
I
could
make
in
the
narrow
space
of
half
a
Day
.
The
Island
of
Rhodes
is
a
hundred
Miles
in
Compass
:
'T
was
taken
from
the
Saracens
by
the
Knights
of
S.
John
of
Jerusalem
,
on
the
Day
of
the
Virgin
's
Assumption
,
Ann.
1309.
and
retaken
by
Solyman
II.
Emperour
of
the
Turks
,
in
the
Year
1522.
by
the
Treachery
of
Andrew
d'
Amaral
,
one
of
the
Knights
,
and
Chancellour
of
the
Order
;
who
aspiring
to
the
Dignity
of
the
Great
Master
;
and
being
disappointed
of
his
Hopes
to
attain
it
,
by
the
Election
of
Monsieur
de
Villiers
l'
Ile
Adam
to
that
Office
,
was
so
enrag'd
,
that
he
shot
an
Arrow
into
the
Enemy's
Camp
,
with
a
Letter
discovering
the
only
Place
where
the
Town
cou'd
be
successfully
attack'd
.
The
City
is
little
,
but
extremely
strong
,
both
by
reason
of
its
Situation
on
a
Rock
,
and
the
great
number
of
Bastions
and
Towers
that
command
one
another
very
advantageously
.
The
Great
Masters
House
,
and
the
Inns
of
the
Seven
Languages
remain
still
entire
,
and
the
same
may
be
said
of
the
Church
of
S.
John
,
tho'
the
Turks
have
turn'd
it
into
a
Mosquee
,
for
they
have
not
so
much
as
defac'd
the
Images
of
our
Saviour
and
the
Virgin
,
represented
over
the
Door
in
Bass-Relief
.
Tho'
I
had
not
known
that
this
Island
belong'd
formerly
to
the
Knights
of
Malta
,
I
shou'd
have
easily
discover'd
it
by
the
great
number
of
Inscriptions
,
and
Scutcheons
of
the
Order
,
that
are
over
the
Gate
of
the
City
,
and
almost
every
where
else
.
And
besides
there
are
so
many
other
ancient
Monuments
of
the
same
Nature
,
that
I
never
saw
so
vast
a
number
of
Inscriptions
in
so
small
a
Spot
of
Ground
.
'T
is
related
in
the
History
of
the
Order
,
that
this
Island
was
formerly
infested
by
a
horrible
Dragon
,
above
thirty
Foot
long
,
who
abode
in
a
Cave
not
far
from
the
City
,
and
made
such
a
dreadful
Havock
all
around
,
that
there
was
no
Safety
in
the
Country
.
The
Story
adds
,
that
his
very
Breath
infected
all
the
Neighbourhood
of
his
Cave
,
and
that
his
Skin
was
so
hard
,
that
no
Arrow
cou'd
pierce
it
,
but
that
he
was
kill'd
at
last
by
a
Knight
of
Provence
,
call'd
Dedoat
de
Goson
.
I
always
suspected
the
Credit
of
this
Relation
,
but
mine
Eyes
have
now
convinc'd
me
of
the
Truth
of
it
:
for
the
Monster
's
Head
is
on
one
of
the
Gates
of
the
City
towards
the
Land
,
and
I
had
time
to
take
a
full
View
of
it
.
I
cannot
represent
it
better
than
by
comparing
it
to
the
Head
of
a
Hog
;
only
't
is
longer
and
bigger
,
and
hath
no
Ears
;
the
Jaws
are
very
large
,
and
arm'd
with
long
and
sharp
Teeth
.
Since
I
am
not
over-fond
of
believing
any
thing
that
seems
strange
and
unaccountable
,
I
must
beg
leave
to
persist
in
my
Incredulity
,
concerning
the
Famous
Colossus
,
which
was
formerly
the
Glory
and
Ornament
of
this
Island
.
'T
is
true
,
Strabo
,
Pliny
,
and
several
other
Grave
Writers
,
seem
to
believe
this
Story
:
but
Authors
as
well
as
other
Men
,
take
Pleasure
in
relating
Wonders
.
This
was
the
usual
Custom
of
the
Ancients
,
especially
Pliny
and
Herodotus
,
who
have
stuff'd
their
Writings
with
such
lofty
Fables
,
as
the
Reader
may
easily
perceive
by
a
transient
View
of
their
Works
.
And
besides
when
an
Author
of
any
considerable
Reputation
in
the
Learned
World
relates
a
Matter
of
Fact
,
't
is
always
confirm'd
by
the
Testimony
of
those
who
follow
him
.
Nevertheless
in
this
Case
,
the
Opinions
of
Authors
are
very
different
;
for
Chares
according
to
some
,
erected
the
Colossus
,
whereas
others
ascribe
that
Honour
to
Lacches
:
some
with
Strabo
relate
,
that
't
was
seventy
Cubits
high
;
and
others
affirm
that
its
Height
amounted
to
Eighty
;
so
that
the
Story
is
at
the
best
doubtful
and
uncertain
.
But
to
examine
the
Matter
more
narrowly
,
the
largest
Computation
of
the
Heighth
of
the
Colossus
will
hardly
amount
to
what
is
requir'd
by
the
Circumstances
of
the
Story
:
for
the
Breadth
of
the
Port
of
Rhodes
,
between
the
opposite
Shores
,
where
the
Feet
of
the
Colossus
are
said
to
have
been
fix'd
,
amounts
to
324
measur'd
Feet
,
so
that
the
whole
Figure
must
have
been
500
Foot
high
.
And
besides
how
is
it
possible
to
conceive
that
a
Mass
of
such
a
Prodigious
Bigness
cou'd
be
cast
.
I
know
some
pretend
that
't
was
built
by
Pieces
,
and
that
it
consisted
only
of
Stone
lin'd
with
Brass
;
but
this
Opinion
as
well
as
the
other
is
clogg'd
with
unsurmountable
Difficulties
,
as
't
will
appear
from
the
following
Reflexions
.
The
tallest
of
the
Egyptian
Pyramids
,
which
are
justly
reckon'd
among
the
Wonders
of
the
World
,
cou'd
not
be
rais'd
above
520
Foot
high
;
and
the
Tower
of
Strasburgh
,
which
has
not
(
and
perhaps
never
had
)
its
equal
in
the
World
,
does
not
exceed
560
Feet
.
Now
these
admirable
Buildings
have
sufficient
Bases
or
Foundations
,
to
support
the
Weight
of
the
Superstructure
;
whereas
this
enormous
Figure
must
have
been
four
times
bigger
above
than
below
,
without
reck'ning
the
Arms
that
hung
down
,
or
at
least
one
of
'em
which
carry'd
a
Lanthorn
,
and
(
if
the
Story
be
true
)
could
not
be
made
but
by
the
Architects
whom
Aesop
sent
to
King
Nectanebus
.
I
will
not
insist
upon
the
equal
poising
of
so
great
a
Mass
,
which
was
both
absolutely
necessary
,
and
extremely
difficult
in
this
Case
;
but
shall
proceed
to
more
obvious
Reasons
.
'T
is
said
that
after
this
Colossus
was
overthrown
by
an
Earthquake
,
it
remain'd
where
it
fell
till
the
Year
656
,
or
according
to
others
952
,
which
is
a
new
Controversie
;
and
that
the
Saracens
broke
it
to
pieces
,
and
sold
the
Brass
to
a
Jew
,
who
carry'd
it
to
Antioch
.
And
here
we
meet
with
another
Variation
in
the
Relations
of
Authors
;
for
tho'
most
are
agreed
that
900
Camels
were
loaded
with
the
Brass
,
there
are
some
that
reduce
the
Number
to
800
,
but
neither
of
these
Opinions
is
well
grounded
.
Now
,
Sir
,
I
wou'd
gladly
be
inform'd
where
the
Colossus
fell
;
and
they
who
maintain
the
Truth
of
this
Story
,
will
perhaps
find
this
to
be
a
more
puzzling
Question
than
they
imagine
.
For
considering
the
Situation
of
its
Legs
,
they
cannot
pretend
that
it
fell
towards
the
Land
,
and
consequently
they
must
acknowledge
that
it
tumbl'd
into
the
Sea
,
where
it
cou'd
not
lie
without
stopping
the
Mouth
of
the
Harbour
;
nor
cou'd
that
be
done
without
ruining
the
Trade
of
the
City
,
on
which
all
its
Riches
depended
.
But
these
necessary
Consequences
of
this
Supposition
,
are
directly
contradicted
by
History
,
which
assures
us
,
that
Rhodes
was
a
very
flourishing
City
,
and
that
its
Port
was
as
good
and
as
much
frequented
,
as
ever
,
at
the
Arrival
of
the
Saracens
.
But
this
is
not
the
only
Absurdity
that
destroys
the
Credit
of
the
Story
.
T
is
well
known
that
a
Camel's
Burthen
never
exceeds
five
or
six
hundred
Weight
,
especially
when
the
Journey
is
considerably
long
:
and
how
then
cou'd
900
of
those
Animals
carry
away
so
prodigious
a
Quantity
of
Brass
.
For
you
will
find
by
Calculation
,
that
every
Foot
in
the
Heighth
of
the
Colossus
,
(
reckoning
'em
one
with
another
)
weigh'd
above
3000
Pounds
;
since
't
is
computed
that
a
square
Foot
of
that
Metal
,
containing
an
Inch
in
Thickness
,
weighs
above
fifty
Pounds
.
Now
't
is
plain
,
that
the
very
encompassing
of
the
●ody
of
the
Colossus
wou'd
require
much
more
than
sixty
such
Pieces
,
which
according
to
the
above-mention●d
Computation
,
amount
to
1500
Pounds
,
without
reckoning
the
Overplus
;
and
by
the
same
Proportion
you
may
guess
at
the
Quantity
of
Brass
that
wou'd
have
been
necessary
for
lining
the
whole
Figure
.
This
Colossus
puts
me
in
mind
of
the
extravagant
Proposal
made
to
Alexander
the
Great
by
an
Architect
call'd
Dinocrates
,
who
undertook
to
build
a
City
on
Mount
Atlas
,
and
to
cut
it
into
the
Shape
of
a
Man
,
with
a
Cup
in
his
Hand
disgorging
a
River
.
Cou'd
ever
a
more
ridiculous
Chimaera
enter
into
a
distemper'd
Brain
?
But
the
Ancients
cou'd
easily
swallow
the
greatest
Absurdity
,
and
there
are
still
too
many
profess'd
Adorers
of
those
fabulous
Writers
,
who
defend
all
their
Lies
and
Mistakes
with
a
stupid
Obstinacy
.
As
for
my
part
,
I
confess
my
Faith
is
so
weak
on
such
Occasions
,
that
I
cannot
forbear
suspecting
the
Truth
of
the
Story
of
the
Rhodian
Colossus
.
At
least
since
I
have
so
much
Complaisance
to
the
Authors
that
attest
it
,
as
to
keep
my self
from
denying
it
absolutely
;
I
hope
they
will
give
me
leave
to
think
that
't
was
somewhat
smaller
,
less
wonderful
,
and
situated
in
another
Place
,
than
they
imagine
:
for
a
much
less
incredible
Bulk
will
suffice
,
if
we
suppose
that
't
was
plac'd
at
the
Mouth
of
the
Harbour
for
Galleys
.
However
I
dare
not
venture
to
assure
you
that
I
have
seen
the
Place
where
the
Colossus
of
the
Sun
stood
,
but
only
where
't
is
believ'd
it
stood
:
for
thus
I
shall
be
sure
to
keep
close
to
the
Truth
,
which
I
have
always
made
the
Standard
of
my
Relations
.
We
stay'd
part
of
a
Day
at
Rhodes
,
and
set
Sail
the
same
Night
with
a
fair
Wind
;
but
a
sudden
Change
of
Weather
oblig'd
us
to
stand
in
to
the
Road
of
Cyprus
.
Cyprus
is
an
Island
almost
of
the
same
Bigness
with
Rhodes
.
The
Air
is
so
sweet
,
clear
,
and
temperate
,
that
the
Weather
is
perpetually
fair
;
at
least
I
can
assure
you
,
that
during
the
little
time
we
spent
in
it
,
I
cou'd
not
perceive
the
least
Sign
of
Winter
.
It
produces
great
Abundance
of
Sugar
,
Cotton
,
and
delicious
Wine
:
besides
't
is
the
best
Country
in
the
World
for
Hunting
,
and
Provisions
are
so
incredibly
cheap
,
that
,
as
the
French
Consul
assur'd
me
,
the
greatest
Lover
of
his
Belly
cannot
spend
Forty
Piasters
a
Year
in
Eating
and
Drinking
.
The
Town
is
neither
large
nor
neat
,
inhabited
by
a
Medley
of
Turks
and
Christians
,
as
all
other
Places
under
the
Grand
Signior's
Dominion
.
I
saw
a
Man
in
it
that
had
four
Arms
,
two
on
each
Side
,
one
above
the
other
,
but
he
cou'd
only
use
the
lower
.
The
27
th
.
in
the
Morning
we
set
Sail
,
and
arriv'd
at
Alexandria
on
the
8
th
.
instant
towards
Noon
.
The
Land
lies
so
extremely
low
,
that
tho'
the
Sun
shone
very
bright
,
we
cou'd
not
discover
the
Coast
,
till
we
were
very
near
it
.
At
the
same
time
we
perceiv'd
a
Saique
making
towards
us
,
with
a
Pilot
and
four
Officers
of
the
Custom-House
.
Perhaps
most
of
us
wou'd
have
willingly
dispens'd
with
the
last
of
our
Visitants
;
but
we
stood
very
much
in
need
of
the
Pilot's
Help
,
for
both
the
Road
and
Harbour
are
extremely
dangerous
,
by
reason
of
the
lurking
Rocks
that
can
hardly
be
avoided
without
the
Assistance
of
a
Seaman
of
the
Country
.
At
last
having
cast
Anchor
very
happily
,
I
went
a-shore
in
the
Saique
.
As
I
pass'd
by
the
Custom-House
,
I
was
somewhat
surpriz'd
at
the
unusual
Exactness
of
the
Officers
;
for
they
search'd
me
all
over
,
and
even
thrust
their
Hands
into
my
Breeches
,
to
know
whether
I
had
brought
any
Gold
or
Silver
,
which
pay
a
considerable
Impost
to
the
Grand
Signior
,
commonly
call'd
Gold-Duty
.
But
I
was
much
more
surpriz'd
at
Night
,
when
they
came
to
shut
us
up
like
so
many
Prisoners
,
as
they
do
every
Night
in
the
Week
,
and
on
Fridays
at
Noon
;
by
reason
of
a
foolish
Prophecy
,
that
foretells
the
Conquest
of
the
City
by
the
Franks
.
For
since
't
wou'd
be
very
troublesome
to
shut
as
many
Doors
as
there
are
Franks
in
the
Town
,
all
those
who
bear
that
Name
are
oblig'd
to
lodge
in
certain
spacious
Hans
,
call'd
Fondies
,
which
having
but
one
Gate
or
Door
,
are
quickly
secur'd
.
The
French
,
English
,
and
Dutch
have
each
a
distinct
Han
,
where
they
live
,
without
medling
in
the
least
with
one
another's
business
,
either
in
Peace
or
War
.
The
Merchants
who
reside
here
are
for
the
most
part
only
Factors
to
answer
the
Commissions
of
their
Correspondents
in
Christendom
:
Nor
can
this
City
be
reckon'd
as
a
place
of
Commerce
,
unless
by
the
bye
,
for
no
considerable
Caravans
come
hither
,
and
Aleppo
is
properly
the
Seat
of
Trade
,
and
Residence
of
the
Consuls
.
The
famous
City
of
Alexandria
,
admir'd
in
former
Ages
for
its
Extent
and
Beauty
,
is
now
a
wretched
heap
of
Cottages
,
that
seem
to
have
been
built
on
purpose
to
insult
over
the
deplorable
fate
of
the
Ruins
on
which
they
are
founded
.
There
cannot
be
a
more
lively
Instance
of
the
frailty
of
human
Grandeur
,
than
those
rich
Fragments
of
Marble
,
Porphyry
,
and
Granite
,
that
are
every
where
to
be
seen
mixt
with
Earth
,
Wood
,
and
Stone
.
The
whole
City
is
as
it
were
buri'd
under
the
Ruines
of
overturn'd
Palaces
;
and
't
is
impossible
to
behold
that
magnificent
Rubbish
,
without
reflecting
with
a
certain
Melancholic
Pleasure
on
the
ancient
Splendor
of
these
celebrated
Structures
.
But
since
I
have
reason
to
believe
that
such
general
Remarks
wou'd
not
satisfie
your
Curiosity
,
I
shall
proceed
to
give
you
a
more
particular
account
of
the
admirable
Remains
of
Alexandria
.
It
appears
by
the
Walls
(
which
are
not
so
ruinous
as
the
Houses
)
that
the
compass
of
the
City
amounted
to
Ten
Miles
:
But
they
are
infinitely
more
remarkable
for
their
Beauty
and
Magnificence
,
than
for
the
largeness
of
their
Extent
.
They
are
20
Foot
thick
throughout
,
and
join'd
with
a
certain
Cement
as
hard
as
Stone
:
From
space
to
space
they
are
flank'd
with
great
square
Towers
,
which
are
so
strong
and
massive
that
they
appear
like
so
many
Castles
;
and
within
each
Tower
there
are
Cisterns
,
Halls
,
and
a
sufficient
number
of
Chambers
to
lodge
at
least
100
Men.
But
,
which
is
still
more
convenient
and
useful
,
there
are
Casemates
under
the
Walls
round
the
whole
City
,
in
which
,
together
with
the
Towers
,
there
was
room
enough
to
lodge
50000
Men
,
who
were
always
ready
either
to
appear
in
Arms
on
the
Walls
in
case
of
necessity
,
or
to
march
upon
occasion
to
any
place
in
the
City
.
The
Walls
are
also
surrounded
with
good
False-brays
,
which
are
still
entire
;
and
if
you
add
to
these
a
broad
,
deep
,
and
well-lin'd
Ditch
,
I
think
there
cou'd
not
be
more
desir'd
in
that
Age
,
for
the
security
and
defence
of
any
City
.
Among
all
the
ruinous
Beauties
of
Alexandria
,
there
is
none
more
remarkable
than
Caesar's
Palace
.
'T
was
certainly
a
very
large
Building
,
and
if
I
may
be
allow'd
to
judge
of
the
rest
by
the
Front
which
remains
still
entire
,
I
may
venture
to
assure
you
that
't
was
a
noble
and
compleat
Work
.
I
observ'd
also
several
Columns
of
Pophyry
and
spotted
Green
Marble
,
which
heighten'd
the
Idea
I
had
already
conceiv'd
of
its
Magnificence
.
Near
these
stately
Ruines
there
are
others
equal
to
'em
in
all
respects
,
and
no
less
rich
in
Porphyry
and
Granite
,
which
are
said
to
be
Fragments
of
the
Ancient
Palace
of
the
Ptolomies
:
Besides
a
great
number
of
others
as
admirable
as
either
of
the
former
.
But
't
is
so
long
since
the
City
was
demolish'd
,
and
the
confusion
is
so
great
at
present
,
that
't
is
impossible
for
the
most
curious
Antiquary
to
distinguish
the
Foundations
of
so
many
Palaces
and
Temples
.
The
only
entire
pieces
that
have
escap'd
the
common
Fate
of
the
rest
,
are
the
Column
of
Pompey
,
and
four
Obelisks
of
Granite
.
'T
is
said
the
first
was
erected
by
Caesar
,
to
the
Memory
of
Pompey
:
Some
think
't
is
a
kind
of
Marble
,
but
others
incline
rather
to
believe
that
't
was
built
of
melted
Stone
,
cast
in
Moulds
upon
the
place
.
The
latter
Opinion
seems
most
probable
,
for
there
is
not
the
least
piece
of
that
Stone
to
be
found
in
any
part
of
the
World
,
and
the
Pillar
is
so
prodigiously
big
and
high
,
that
it
cou'd
hardly
be
erected
without
a
Miracle
.
I
know
't
is
alledg'd
by
those
who
believe
the
Story
of
the
Rhodian
Colossus
,
that
the
Ancients
had
the
advantage
of
admirable
Machines
to
raise
such
bulky
Pieces
:
But
I
shou'd
reckon
my self
extreamly
oblig'd
to
these
Gentlemen
,
if
they
wou'd
show
me
any
probable
reason
why
among
so
great
a
variety
of
Egyptian
Monuments
of
Antiquity
there
is
not
one
of
Marble
,
and
by
what
an
accountable
accident
the
Stone
call'd
Granite
,
which
was
then
so
common
,
is
now
grown
so
scarce
,
that
the
most
curious
Inquirers
into
the
Works
of
Nature
cannot
find
the
least
Fragment
of
it
;
that
was
not
employ'd
in
ancient
Structures
.
And
even
tho'
I
shou'd
suppose
with
my
Adversaries
,
that
the
Quarries
out
of
which
this
Stone
was
dug
were
by
degrees
so
entirely
exhausted
,
that
there
is
not
the
least
Footstep
of
'em
left
;
and
that
Nature
her self
has
lost
so
much
of
ancient
Vigour
and
Fecundity
,
that
she
is
not
able
to
produce
new
ones
:
I
may
still
be
allow'd
to
ask
why
Granite
was
only
us'd
in
Obelisks
or
Columns
of
a
prodigious
bigness
:
For
if
it
were
really
a
sort
of
Stone
or
Marble
,
I
see
no
reason
why
we
might
not
find
small
pieces
of
it
,
as
well
as
of
Porphyry
,
and
other
precious
kinds
of
Marble
.
These
reflections
,
in
my
Opinion
,
may
serve
to
confirm
the
Hypothesis
of
those
who
believe
that
all
these
admirable
Monuments
were
actually
cast
in
a
Mould
:
And
if
they
wou'd
take
the
pains
to
view
this
Column
attentively
,
they
wou'd
soon
be
convinc'd
by
the
testimony
of
their
own
Eyes
,
that
't
is
only
a
kind
of
Cement
,
compos'd
of
Sand
and
calcin'd
Stone
,
not
unlike
to
Mortar
or
Lime
,
which
grew
hard
by
degrees
.
I
will
not
pretend
to
determine
by
what
Artifice
those
ancient
Workmen
kept
the
Cement
from
yielding
or
sliding
till
the
Pillar
was
compleated
;
tho'
perhaps
it
might
be
probably
alledg'd
,
that
they
made
a
Mould
of
Stone
or
Wood
,
besmear'd
on
the
Inside
with
some
fat
or
unctuous
Substance
,
to
hinder
the
Matter
from
sticking
to
its
cover
;
and
that
after
the
Work
was
finish'd
,
and
the
Column
almost
dry
,
they
broke
the
Mould
that
preserv'd
the
regularity
of
its
Figure
,
and
kept
it
from
falling
.
This
Column
is
80
Foot
high
,
and
24
in
compass
:
'T
is
plac'd
on
a
Marble
Pedestal
eight
Foot
square
,
and
crown'd
at
the
top
with
a
Chapiter
of
the
same
Granite
,
of
which
the
Pillar
consists
.
I
know
not
what
Opinion
you
may
have
of
the
Ancient
Engines
,
but
for
my
part
I
must
confess
,
whether
I
consider
the
weight
or
bulk
of
so
vast
a
Mass
,
I
find
it
equally
impossible
to
conceive
that
it
cou'd
be
rais'd
by
the
strongest
and
best
contriv'd
Machines
that
ever
were
Invented
.
The
four
Obelisks
are
also
of
Granite
,
and
adorn'd
with
Hieroglyphic
Figures
in
Relief
,
like
that
at
Rome
:
Some
of
'em
are
standing
,
and
the
rest
fall'n
.
I
cannot
comprehend
the
reason
that
mov'd
the
Founders
of
Alexandria
to
chuse
such
an
uninhabitable
Country
for
the
Seat
of
so
stately
a
City
.
The
Heat
is
so
insupportable
in
the
Summer
that
it
makes
all
the
Inhabitants
as
Tawny
as
they
can
possibly
be
,
without
being
quite
Black
.
And
,
which
is
still
more
incommodious
,
they
have
no
Fountains
to
qualifie
the
scorching
Heat
of
the
Climate
:
For
the
only
Springs
in
Egypt
are
two
that
are
at
Cairo
,
of
which
I
may
perhaps
give
you
an
account
,
after
I
have
seen
'em
.
To
supply
,
in
some
measure
,
these
natural
defects
,
the
Natives
have
contriv'd
subterraneous
Buildings
,
which
are
no
less
admirable
than
the
Palaces
that
formerly
adorn'd
Alexandria
.
For
there
are
vast
Cisterns
under
Ground
,
Vaulted
and
under-prop'd
with
strong
Marble-Pillars
that
support
the
weight
of
the
Houses
,
and
of
the
City
,
which
is
wholly
built
on
these
Caves
.
All
the
Cisterns
are
border'd
with
Streets
,
as
if
they
were
Houses
,
so
that
they
seem
to
form
a
subterraneous
City
.
This
puts
me
in
mind
of
the
Roman
Catacombs
,
tho'
they
are
much
inferiour
in
beauty
to
the
Alexandrian
Cisterns
:
For
the
former
are
narrow
,
low
,
and
unadorn'd
;
whereas
the
latter
are
spacious
,
enrich'd
with
Marble
,
and
in
some
parts
with
Porphyry
:
These
Cisterns
were
fill'd
with
Water
at
the
overflowing
of
the
Nile
,
by
a
large
Canal
call'd
Khaalis
,
which
still
brings
Water
from
the
River
,
for
the
use
of
those
few
Inhabitants
that
are
left
in
the
City
.
The
Canal
is
border'd
with
Gardens
,
which
are
not
beautiful
,
tho'
they
contain
a
vast
number
of
very
large
Orange
,
Citron
,
and
Limon-Trees
.
If
you
reflect
on
the
usual
Custom
of
the
Romans
,
to
imitate
the
Egyptians
in
every
thing
,
you
will
find
your self
oblig'd
to
acknowledge
that
't
is
at
least
a
probable
conjecture
,
that
the
Catacombs
of
Rome
were
built
after
the
Model
of
certain
large
Caves
,
without
the
Walls
of
this
City
towards
the
Palace
.
These
subterraneous
Vaults
are
fifteen
Foot
square
,
and
eight
or
ten
Foot
high
:
And
there
are
Tombs
in
the
Walls
cut
out
of
the
Rock
,
like
those
in
the
Roman
Catacombs
,
but
more
artificially
contriv'd
,
and
rank'd
in
better
Order
,
in
which
there
are
many
entire
Skeletons
,
tho'
t
is
perhaps
above
2000
Years
since
they
were
laid
there
.
The
Entry
of
the
Caves
is
very
low
and
narrow
,
for
you
must
creep
into
a
little
hole
,
and
slide
several
paces
downward
before
you
come
to
the
Vaults
.
This
Country
is
Inhabited
by
a
medley
of
several
Nations
;
natural
Turks
,
Moors
,
Arabs
,
Greeks
,
and
Jews
.
The
Arabs
are
generally
Free-booters
,
infesting
the
Roads
,
and
rifling
all
the
Passengers
without
Mercy
,
so
that
't
is
extreamly
dangerous
to
Travel
without
a
numerous
Company
.
Yet
there
are
some
of
that
Nation
who
live
in
the
Cities
,
and
are
more
Civil
than
their
Country-men
in
the
Fields
:
But
they
all
pretend
to
be
Magicians
,
and
are
so
intoxicated
with
such
Chimera's
,
that
one
wou'd
almost
think
they
were
seiz'd
with
a
sort
of
Epidemical
Madness
.
They
have
several
ways
of
Divination
;
for
some
of
'em
pretend
to
Inspiration
,
others
Prophecy
by
Visions
,
and
there
are
some
who
throw
Beans
into
a
Bag
,
and
after
they
have
counted
'em
,
return
answers
to
those
who
consult
'em
.
Among
all
these
Fortune-Tellers
,
those
who
Divine
by
way
of
Vision
,
are
reckon'd
the
most
skilful
,
and
are
fewest
in
number
:
As
for
the
rest
,
the
Streets
are
full
of
'em
.
I
have
heard
several
Instances
of
their
Predictions
,
both
in
Christendom
,
and
in
this
Countrey
,
without
giving
Credit
to
any
of
'em
,
because
they
were
for
the
most
part
only
second-hand
Stories
:
But
I
'm
extreamly
puzl'd
what
to
think
of
an
account
I
had
from
the
Master
of
our
Ship
,
for
my
Author
is
a
Man
of
Honour
,
and
part
of
the
Matter
of
fact
is
attested
by
all
the
French-men
in
Alexandria
.
The
Story
is
this
.
Captain
Carbonneau
,
Master
of
the
Ship
,
call'd
St.
Augustin
,
bound
for
this
City
,
was
entrusted
at
Marseilles
with
a
Bag
of
200
Piasters
of
Sevil
,
which
he
receiv'd
without
counting
'em
,
and
oblig'd
himself
to
make
good
the
Summ.
At
his
Arrival
he
deliver'd
the
Bag
to
the
Person
to
whom
it
was
directed
,
who
told
the
Money
immediately
,
and
finding
50
Piasters
wanting
,
refus'd
to
receive
it
,
and
entred
an
Action
against
the
Captain
for
the
Overplus
.
In
the
mean
time
Carbonneau
made
a
diligent
search
on
Board
his
Ship
,
to
discover
who
had
stoln
the
50
Piasters
;
for
he
suspected
his
Clerk
and
Surgeon
as
the
only
Persons
who
had
enter'd
his
Chamber
:
But
finding
that
all
his
Inquiries
were
unsuccessful
,
he
resolv'd
to
consult
an
Arabian
Sooth-sayer
,
who
was
of
the
Visionary
Tribe
,
and
reputed
very
skilful
.
After
some
time
spent
in
Ceremonious
Grimaces
,
the
Arab
told
him
,
that
he
saw
a
Man
,
whose
Person
he
describ'd
,
tell
150
Piasters
into
a
Bag
of
strip'd
Ticking
,
and
afterwards
tye
it
up
.
The
Captain
perceiv'd
that
these
Circumstances
agreed
exactly
to
the
Bag
and
the
Person
who
gave
it
him
;
but
not
being
entirely
satisfi'd
,
he
entreated
the
Diviner
to
tell
him
positively
,
whether
there
were
only
150
Piasters
put
into
the
Bag
,
or
50
of
'em
afterwards
taken
out
.
After
some
new
Ceremonies
,
the
Sooth-sayer
told
him
,
that
he
saw
the
same
Person
endeavour
to
put
200
Piasters
into
the
Bag
,
which
not
being
large
enough
to
hold
them
all
,
there
remain'd
20
that
cou'd
not
be
put
in
for
want
of
room
.
'T
is
plain
then
,
added
he
,
that
the
compleat
Summ
neither
was
nor
cou'd
be
put
into
the
Bag
:
And
if
you
make
the
Experiment
,
you
'll
be
convinc'd
of
the
truth
of
what
I
say
.
Nor
was
he
mistaken
,
for
't
was
found
upon
trial
,
that
the
Bag
was
not
large
enough
to
contain
200
Piasters
,
and
Carbonneau's
Adversary
was
so
honest
as
to
put
a
stop
to
the
Action
.
This
accident
made
a
great
noise
among
those
of
our
Nation
;
and
the
Captain
was
so
extreamly
surpriz'd
at
his
Fortune-Teller's
Skill
,
that
some
days
before
his
departure
,
he
went
again
to
consult
him
concerning
the
Success
of
his
Voyage
.
The
Arab
answer'd
,
that
he
saw
neither
Fight
,
Ship-wrack
,
nor
Arrival
,
but
only
four
Mariners
,
whom
he
describ'd
,
carrying
Fire
in
their
hands
;
and
therefore
advis'd
him
to
have
an
Eye
upon
'em
,
and
to
prevent
any
accidents
that
might
happen
in
his
Vessel
.
Six
days
after
the
Captain
having
put
out
to
Sea
,
and
intending
to
set
Sail
the
next
Morning
,
the
four
Seamen
,
whom
the
Arabian
represented
,
smoaking
Tabacco
between
the
Decks
,
set
Fire
to
some
Bales
of
Wool
that
were
part
of
the
Lading
,
and
the
Ship
was
entirely
consum'd
.
The
Arabians
were
formerly
very
Learned
,
especially
in
Medicine
,
and
our
European
Surgeons
have
found
very
useful
Secrets
in
their
Books
:
But
at
present
they
apply
themselves
wholly
to
Divination
,
which
,
in
their
Opinion
,
is
the
only
sublime
Science
.
They
are
perfect
Strangers
to
the
knowledge
of
Religion
,
and
their
only
Trade
is
to
Rob
Passengers
:
Nevertheless
,
it
must
be
acknowledg'd
to
their
praise
,
that
they
kill
none
but
Turks
,
and
these
only
when
they
are
disoblig'd
by
the
Grand
Signior
.
They
are
divided
into
Tribes
,
commanded
by
their
particular
Captains
,
who
are
all
subject
to
a
kind
of
Duke
or
Prince
,
whom
they
call
Skeick
el
Kebir
.
They
Encamp
in
the
Deserts
,
where
they
spend
their
whole
Lives
;
for
when
they
have
consum'd
the
Grass
in
one
place
they
remove
to
another
.
They
are
lean
and
black
;
their
Aspect
is
Grim
and
terrible
:
They
are
usually
cloath'd
with
the
Skins
of
wild
Beasts
,
and
feed
upon
Milk
,
Butter
,
Honey
,
and
sometimes
a
little
Camel's
Flesh
parch'd
in
the
Sun-Beams
,
or
Roasted
in
the
Embers
:
But
when
they
go
out
on
Parties
to
Attack
Caravans
,
or
private
Travellers
,
they
carry
no
other
Provisions
but
a
little
Flesh
,
which
they
lay
under
'em
upon
their
Horse's
backs
till
it
grows
hot
and
tender
.
They
have
the
best
Horses
in
the
World
,
for
they
are
incredibly
swift
,
and
will
ride
a
whole
day
without
tyring
.
'T
is
the
Custom
of
the
Arabians
to
Gallop
perpetually
,
without
stopping
to
Dine
:
At
Night
they
tye
their
Horses
to
Stakes
,
and
feed
'em
with
Milk
,
Flesh
,
and
Wheat
,
as
they
do
themselves
.
They
esteem
a
good
Horse
above
all
things
in
the
World
;
and
to
prevent
Deceits
,
they
keep
their
Pedigrees
in
Writing
.
When
they
have
occasion
to
sell
or
exchange
a
Horse
,
they
produce
his
Genealogy
,
proving
him
to
be
lineally
descended
from
such
a
Stallion
and
Mare
of
illustrious
Memory
.
This
wandring
Nation
owes
the
preservation
of
its
Liberties
to
the
weakness
of
the
Grand
Signior
,
and
of
the
Bassa's
of
Cairo
and
Aleppo
,
who
not
only
connive
at
'em
,
but
gratifie
the
Sheck
el
Kebir
with
a
Pension
,
which
very
much
resembles
Tribute
;
For
upon
the
least
delay
of
Payment
,
they
burn
and
pillage
the
Country
in
so
barbarous
a
manner
,
that
I
cannot
give
you
a
livelier
Idea
of
the
havock
they
make
on
such
occasions
,
than
by
putting
you
in
mind
of
the
French
Campaign
in
the
Palatinate
.
I
have
done
with
the
Arabians
,
and
shall
in
the
next
place
proceed
to
give
you
a
brief
Account
of
the
Turks
that
live
in
Egypt
,
before
I
finish
my
Letter
.
They
are
so
extreamly
Superstitious
,
that
when
they
go
abroad
in
the
Morning
,
if
the
first
Person
they
meet
be
a
Christian
,
they
return
immediately
,
and
having
wash'd
themselves
,
stay
at
home
all
the
rest
of
the
day
;
for
they
believe
that
some
great
Misfortune
wou'd
certainly
befall
'em
,
if
they
shou'd
venture
to
go
abroad
again
.
Their
hatred
and
scorn
to
all
that
profess
the
Faith
of
Christ
,
is
extended
even
to
the
Franks
,
who
meet
with
a
thousand
Indignities
,
which
the
Greeks
themselves
can
hardly
bear
.
For
not
to
mention
the
Custom
of
Imprisoning
us
every
Night
,
we
are
not
permitted
to
appear
on
Horseback
in
the
City
,
but
are
oblig'd
to
ride
on
Asses
;
and
if
a
Frank
were
found
taking
a
particular
view
of
a
Fortification
,
't
wou'd
cost
him
at
least
500
Piasters
,
and
he
might
reckon
himself
very
Fortunate
if
he
escap'd
with
so
mild
a
Correction
.
'T
is
still
a
more
hainous
Crime
to
enter
into
a
Mosquee
,
and
wou'd
be
punish'd
with
greater
Severity
:
And
therefore
I
hope
you
will
not
expect
that
I
shou'd
acquaint
you
whether
the
Egyptian
Mosquees
are
different
from
those
of
Constantinople
.
I
have
already
told
you
,
that
the
Men
of
this
Country
are
very
black
;
but
I
'm
inform'd
,
that
the
Women
are
not
tann'd
in
the
least
with
that
Colour
,
so
careful
are
they
to
preserve
their
Complexions
,
and
to
keep
themselves
out
of
the
reach
of
the
Sun
.
I
cou'd
tell
you
some
very
diverting
Stories
of
the
Alexandrian
Women
,
if
I
were
fully
convinc'd
of
the
truth
of
'em
.
'T
is
true
,
my
Authors
are
very
positive
,
but
the
Thing
is
so
odd
,
that
I
dare
hardly
venture
to
relate
it
upon
their
Credit
;
and
especially
in
this
case
,
I
shou'd
be
glad
I
cou'd
speak
as
an
Eye-witness
.
However
,
Sir
,
since
the
mentioning
of
the
Subject
may
perhaps
raise
your
Curiosity
,
't
wou'd
be
ill
Manners
to
take
leave
of
you
without
giving
you
some
account
of
it
.
I
'm
inform'd
there
are
Schools
here
where
Maids
learn
to
give
and
receive
the
Pleasures
of
Love
with
more
than
ordinary
delight
.
This
pretty
Art
is
taught
by
Women
,
who
acting
the
part
of
Men
,
make
their
fair
Scholars
exercise
the
most
lascivious
Postures
imaginable
.
Maids
of
Quality
are
instructed
at
home
,
and
I
'm
assur'd
that
this
is
an
Accomplishment
which
usually
recommends
young
Ladies
to
the
most
advantageous
Matches
.
I
intend
to
Embark
to
morrow
on
a
Tartane
of
Marseilles
,
bound
for
Cairo
.
I
'm
extreamly
afraid
of
the
Mouth
of
Damieta
,
for
they
say
't
is
very
dangerous
.
I
am
,
SIR
,
Your
&c.
Alexandria
,
Jan.
1691.
LETTER
XVII
.
SIR
,
I
Cannot
express
my
Amazement
at
the
sight
of
those
stately
Monuments
that
make
Cairo
the
most
admirable
City
in
the
World
,
and
convince
the
Beholder
of
so
many
Wonders
,
that
the
ancient
Kings
of
Egypt
were
the
most
powerful
Monarchs
in
the
Universe
.
We
are
usually
fill'd
with
a
high
Idea
of
the
Roman
Grandeur
,
because
we
view
it
at
a
less
distance
:
But
how
vastly
inferiour
are
the
Pantheon
,
Collieseum
,
Capitol
,
and
all
the
other
celebrated
Structures
of
Rome
,
to
these
Magnificent
Sepulchres
which
have
for
so
many
Ages
stood
firm
against
all
the
Attacks
of
Time
and
Age
,
and
piercing
the
Sky
with
their
lofty
Tops
,
seem
to
be
Copies
of
the
Tower
of
Babel
.
At
least
't
is
plain
,
that
the
Founders
of
these
Egyptian
Monuments
were
acted
by
the
same
Designs
that
mov'd
Nimrod
to
erect
that
famous
Tower
.
They
saw
that
all
things
were
subject
to
the
irresistible
Power
of
Fate
,
which
destroys
in
a
Moment
the
most
illustrious
and
potent
Empires
,
and
annihilates
even
the
Memory
of
their
Grandeur
.
Their
Souls
were
too
elevated
to
submit
to
the
common
Destiny
of
other
Mortals
;
and
the
sublimity
of
their
Courage
inspir'd
'em
with
the
noble
and
glorious
Resolution
of
making
themselves
Immortal
in
spite
of
Death
.
This
was
the
design
of
those
Egyptian
Hero's
,
and
't
is
to
their
Heroical
Ambition
that
we
owe
the
Possession
of
these
Wonders
of
the
World
.
How
often
do
I
wish
you
had
been
an
Eye-witness
and
Partaker
of
my
Happiness
,
when
I
stood
gazing
on
so
many
Beauties
that
are
not
to
be
found
any
where
else
,
and
might
justifie
the
Curiosity
of
a
Traveller
,
tho'
he
shou'd
come
from
the
remotest
part
of
the
Universe
to
admire
'em
.
These
Monuments
are
of
several
kinds
,
but
there
are
none
so
admirably
magnificent
as
the
Pyramids
,
which
are
so
highly
celebrated
by
ancient
Historians
.
Two
of
the
three
principal
Pyramids
are
shut
,
the
other
which
appears
biggest
is
open
:
'T
is
seated
(
I
mean
the
last
)
very
near
the
other
two
,
three
Leagues
from
Cairo
,
if
that
name
be
confin'd
to
the
New
City
,
or
two
Leagues
and
a
half
,
taking
in
the
Old
.
'T
is
a
vast
artificial
Mountain
,
compos'd
of
Free-Stones
of
different
bigness
;
for
we
cannot
suppose
it
possible
,
that
there
cou'd
have
been
a
sufficient
quantity
of
Stones
found
exactly
of
the
same
Dimensions
,
for
the
building
of
so
prodigious
a
Mass
;
but
the
smallest
are
a
Foot
thick
,
and
two
Foot
long
;
some
being
three
Foot
thick
,
six
long
,
and
four
broad
.
It
s
heighth
amounts
to
520
Feet
,
and
the
breadth
of
each
Face
to
682.
The
Ascent
consists
of
between
200
and
210
Steps
.
The
Top
appears
like
the
point
of
a
Spire
to
those
that
are
below
;
but
when
they
go
up
to
it
,
they
are
surpriz'd
to
find
a
Platform
24
Foot
square
;
and
their
Wonder
is
still
encreas'd
,
when
they
observe
that
so
large
a
space
is
pav'd
only
with
12
Stones
;
for
't
is
hardly
conceivable
how
Stones
of
that
Bulk
cou'd
be
rais'd
to
so
vast
a
heighth
.
From
thence
you
have
the
Prospect
of
Boulac
,
old
and
new
Cairo
,
the
Ruines
of
Memphis
,
the
Mountain
and
the
Desarts
of
Egypt
:
But
he
who
can
look
to
the
bottom
of
the
Steps
without
Amazement
,
may
justly
boast
of
the
strength
of
his
Head
;
for
my
part
,
I
must
confess
I
was
struck
with
so
much
horror
when
I
cast
my
Eye
downward
,
that
I
was
hardly
sensible
of
any
Pleasure
in
viewing
so
great
a
variety
of
Objects
.
There
were
formerly
Steps
on
every
side
,
but
Time
that
consumes
all
things
has
so
wasted
some
of
the
Stones
,
that
in
several
Parts
there
are
dreadful
Precipices
;
and
therefore
Strangers
dare
not
venture
to
ascend
without
the
assistance
of
Guides
that
are
acquainted
with
the
safest
ways
.
At
the
bottom
of
the
Pyramid
there
is
a
heap
of
Sand
that
reaches
to
the
sixteenth
step
,
where
there
is
a
little
door
,
thro'
which
(
after
you
have
drunk
a
refreshing
Cup
)
you
may
enter
into
a
sort
of
descending
Alley
,
30
paces
long
,
about
three
Foot
and
a
half
high
,
and
of
equal
breadth
,
so
that
a
Man
cannot
walk
in
it
without
bowing
his
Body
extreamly
.
At
the
end
of
this
Alley
you
must
lie
down
upon
your
Belly
,
and
creep
thro'
a
little
Wicket
,
which
is
even
with
the
Ground
,
and
brings
you
into
another
little
Alley
like
the
former
,
only
in
this
you
must
ascend
,
whereas
you
descended
in
the
other
.
This
Alley
ends
in
two
others
;
that
on
the
Right-hand
has
no
inclination
,
and
leads
to
a
little
Vaulted
Chamber
18
Foot
long
,
and
12
broad
.
At
the
entrance
into
this
Alley
there
is
a
very
deep
Pit
or
Well
without
Water
:
Some
Travellers
go
down
into
it
,
but
I
did
not
follow
their
Example
:
For
I
thought
I
had
already
done
enough
to
satisfie
my
Curiosity
,
by
creeping
thro'
those
Caves
which
are
darker
than
Hell
it self
,
and
in
all
respects
a
fit
Habitation
for
the
Dead
.
Besides
,
they
are
so
full
of
Bats
that
flutter
about
perpetually
,
and
blow
out
the
Candles
,
that
't
wou'd
be
very
dangerous
to
venture
in
without
a
Tinder-Box
.
Directly
opposite
to
the
last
Alley
,
there
is
another
which
begins
so
high
in
the
Wall
,
that
we
were
forc'd
to
climb
up
to
it
;
but
to
make
amends
for
that
inconveniency
,
't
is
much
higher
and
broader
than
any
of
the
rest
.
After
I
had
walk'd
70
Paces
,
still
ascending
,
I
found
a
sort
of
Hall
32
Foot
long
,
and
16
broad
,
pav'd
with
nine
Stones
,
the
length
of
which
is
equal
to
the
breadth
of
the
Room
.
The
Walls
are
of
a
very
fine
and
precious
kind
of
Porphyry
;
and
at
one
end
there
is
an
empty
Tomb
of
the
same
Porphyry
,
seven
Foot
long
and
three
broad
.
I
went
afterwards
to
take
a
view
of
the
two
other
Pyramids
,
the
least
(
and
according
to
all
appearances
the
most
ancient
)
of
which
was
formerly
over-laid
with
Porphyry
.
'T
is
only
150
Foot
high
,
and
each
of
its
Sides
or
Faces
is
200
Foot
broad
.
The
common
Opinion
is
,
That
't
was
Founded
by
a
Young
Woman
call'd
Rhodope
,
who
was
Aesop's
Fellow-Slave
in
Egypt
;
and
that
the
Munificence
of
her
Lovers
enabl'd
her
to
build
so
vast
a
Work
.
The
other
is
almost
as
great
as
the
first
;
for
its
height
amounts
to
510
Feet
,
and
the
breadth
of
each
Face
to
630.
These
three
Pyramids
are
of
a
quadrilateral
Figure
,
and
I
observ'd
the
Ruines
of
an
ancient
Temple
before
each
of
'em
;
for
't
is
not
at
all
probable
,
that
there
were
ever
any
Palaces
in
that
Place
;
and
the
huge
Idol
of
Stone
that
stands
very
near
those
decay'd
Structures
,
is
,
I
think
,
an
evident
confirmation
of
the
truth
of
my
Conjecture
.
The
People
of
the
Country
say
,
that
't
was
heretofore
famous
for
Oracles
,
and
I
believe
't
is
no
fabulous
Tradition
;
for
there
is
a
very
deep
Hole
in
the
Head
of
the
Idol
,
where
the
Priests
might
lie
conceal'd
,
and
return
answers
to
those
who
came
to
propose
Questions
.
'T
is
a
Colossus
cut
in
the
Rock
,
representing
a
Woman
,
and
is
26
Foot
high
,
tho'
it
scarce
reaches
down
to
her
Bosom
,
so
that
't
is
one
of
the
most
monstrous
Figures
in
the
World
.
Three
hours
Journey
from
thence
there
is
a
Village
call'd
Sacara
,
in
which
there
are
Catacombs
or
Sepulchral
Vaults
,
but
of
a
different
Contrivance
from
those
at
Rome
and
Alexandria
.
For
these
are
distinct
subterraneous
Chambers
,
built
of
Free-Stone
,
without
the
least
Communication
between
one
another
:
There
is
an
opening
above
,
thro'
which
you
are
either
let
down
with
a
Rope
,
as
into
a
Well
,
or
must
go
down
a
Ladder
,
according
to
the
various
Depth
of
the
Caves
.
They
were
heretofore
full
of
the
Bodies
of
ancient
Egyptians
,
so
skilfully
embalm'd
,
that
they
were
preserv'd
entire
,
perhaps
above
4000
Years
,
with
their
Epitaphs
,
Coffins
,
and
curious
and
magnificent
Dresses
.
The
Coffins
were
enrich'd
with
Hieroglyphics
,
and
the
Figure
of
the
Deceas'd
in
Relievo
;
and
sometimes
there
were
Idols
and
Jewels
found
in
'em
.
But
the
Curiosity
of
the
Franks
has
at
last
exhausted
'em
;
tho'
't
is
thought
there
are
some
that
were
never
open'd
,
and
that
the
difficulty
of
finding
'em
proceeds
from
the
Avarice
of
the
Moors
,
who
only
know
where
they
are
,
and
keep
the
Price
of
such
Rarities
very
high
.
Yet
I
made
'em
let
me
down
into
two
or
three
,
where
I
saw
some
Pieces
of
Mummy
,
but
so
spoil'd
,
that
't
was
impossible
to
preserve
any
of
'em
.
This
Place
is
so
full
of
Pyramids
,
that
I
believe
there
are
above
a
hundred
;
but
they
are
not
comparable
to
those
I
mention'd
.
Yet
I
observ'd
one
that
wou'd
be
as
big
as
the
first
,
if
it
were
finish'd
:
there
are
also
ascending
and
descending
Alleys
in
it
,
at
the
end
of
which
there
are
three
Rooms
in
different
Places
.
I
will
not
trouble
you
with
a
Description
of
it
,
since
the
only
remarkable
Difference
between
it
and
the
first
,
is
,
that
this
is
only
rais'd
to
half
the
intended
Heighth
,
if
I
may
judge
by
its
Proportion
to
the
rest
,
whereas
that
is
compleatly
finish'd
.
On
the
other
Side
of
the
Nile
,
directly
opposite
to
this
Place
,
are
the
Ruines
of
the
ancient
City
of
Memphis
,
extended
along
the
River
,
till
you
come
overagainst
Old
Cairo
.
They
are
so
confus'd
at
present
,
that
I
spent
half
a
Day
in
viewing
'em
,
without
finding
any
thing
remarkable
.
I
confess
,
Sir
,
that
in
pursuance
of
the
Niceties
of
an
exact
Method
,
I
shou'd
have
made
you
acquainted
with
the
City
of
Cairo
,
before
I
had
carry'd
you
to
visit
the
Rarities
in
its
Neighbourhood
.
But
I
cou'd
not
forbear
giving
the
first
place
to
that
which
I
most
admir'd
;
and
besides
an
Account
of
Cairo
will
be
as
useful
and
perhaps
as
acceptable
to
you
at
the
End
,
as
in
the
Beginning
of
my
Letter
.
The
Observation
I
made
concerning
the
Variety
of
Opinions
about
the
Extent
of
Constantinople
,
is
equally
applicable
to
this
City
,
which
is
divided
into
three
Parts
,
Boulac
,
and
Old
,
and
New
Cairo
.
Some
Travellers
scruple
to
comprehend
these
three
Towns
under
one
Name
,
because
they
are
separated
by
Gardens
and
Fields
:
but
if
those
Gentlemen
were
to
write
to
an
Inhabitant
of
any
of
these
Divisions
,
they
wou'd
certainly
direct
their
Letters
to
Cairo
,
and
not
to
Boulac
,
&c.
And
't
is
as
impertinent
a
Piece
of
Nicety
to
make
a
Distinction
between
Places
that
are
divided
by
so
small
a
Distance
;
as
't
wou'd
be
absurd
and
improper
,
according
to
that
Opinion
,
to
give
the
City
the
Title
of
Grand
Cairo
.
But
not
to
trouble
you
with
more
Arguments
,
I
shall
only
tell
you
that
I
think
fit
to
join
all
the
three
Parts
together
;
and
that
in
this
Sense
Cairo
contains
four
large
Hours
Journey
in
Length
,
and
twelve
in
Compass
.
'T
was
taken
from
the
Soldans
of
Egypt
,
Ann.
1517.
by
Sultan
Selim
I.
who
put
to
death
all
the
Mammelucks
with
their
Soldan
:
and
since
that
it
has
been
still
subject
to
the
Turks
,
who
in
all
probability
will
not
be
soon
nor
easily
driven
out
of
it
.
'T
is
the
Metropolis
of
Egypt
,
and
the
most
considerable
Bassa-ship
in
Turkey
:
and
since
't
is
a
City
of
a
vast
Extent
,
the
three
Parts
that
compose
it
are
differently
situated
.
Boulac
is
the
Port
of
Cairo
on
the
Nile
,
and
is
alone
as
large
as
Rennes
in
Bretagne
,
or
the
Hague
in
Holland
.
The
New
City
lies
further
in
the
Country
,
at
the
Foot
of
a
great
Hill
,
and
the
Old
Cairo
a
little
beyond
it
,
on
the
Banks
of
the
Nile
.
Thus
the
New
City
is
depriv'd
of
the
advantageous
Neighbourhood
of
the
River
,
and
receives
all
its
Water
by
a
Khaalis
or
Canal
,
like
that
of
Alexandria
.
All
the
rest
of
the
Cities
of
Egypt
are
also
furnish'd
with
such
Aqueducts
,
without
which
they
wou●d
be
wholly
destitute
of
Water
.
This
is
the
Inconveniency
,
or
rather
the
Misery
of
the
Country
;
for
the
Heat
is
very
troublesome
during
the
Summer
:
and
so
much
the
more
insupportable
,
because
all
the
Ground
is
cover'd
with
Sand
,
which
grows
burning
hot
,
and
makes
the
Air
so
sultry
,
that
one
can
scarce
breathe
in
it
.
Judge
,
Sir
,
what
a
Pleasure
't
wou'd
be
in
that
Season
,
to
drink
a
Cup
of
cold
and
fresh
Water
;
and
yet
the
poor
Inhabitants
must
content
themselves
with
the
nasty
Puddle
that
has
stood
about
a
Year
in
the
Cisterns
,
or
(
which
is
almost
as
bad
)
with
the
Water
that
is
carry'd
about
the
Streets
to
be
sold
in
Pitchers
made
of
Goats
Skins
,
by
the
Moors
.
For
the
Khaalis
is
dry
for
the
Space
of
six
Months
,
and
begins
not
to
be
fill'd
till
the
Month
of
August
,
when
the
Nile
is
almost
come
to
its
greatest
Heighth
.
Then
they
cut
the
Dam
or
Bank
,
that
kept
out
the
Water
,
which
immediately
gushes
into
the
Canal
,
and
continues
to
flow
during
the
Encrease
of
the
River
,
that
is
,
till
near
the
End
of
October
,
after
which
it
decreases
by
degrees
.
The
Day
of
the
Opening
of
the
Khaalis
is
observ'd
in
this
City
as
a
Festival
,
with
extraordinary
Marks
of
Joy
:
but
since
I
have
neither
seen
,
nor
am
like
to
see
that
Ceremony
,
you
may
consult
some
other
Travellers
for
an
Account
of
it
.
The
Khaalis
passes
thro'
the
New
City
,
and
fills
a
vast
number
of
Cisterns
and
Basons
for
Gardens
.
The
Inundation
of
the
Nile
is
the
only
Cause
of
the
Fruitfulness
of
Egypt
;
for
without
that
't
wou'd
be
one
vast
Desart
,
as
those
Parts
are
,
which
are
depriv'd
of
that
Advantage
by
reason
of
their
Distance
from
the
River
.
These
Floods
,
which
are
occasion'd
by
the
Melting
of
the
Snow
in
the
Mountains
,
fatten
the
Soil
more
effectually
than
the
best
Dung
in
the
World
cou'd
possibly
do
:
and
indeed
those
Spots
of
Ground
that
are
wash'd
by
the
Inundation
are
admirably
fertil
.
I
cannot
leave
this
Subject
without
taking
Notice
of
the
Vulgar
Errour
,
That
it
never
rains
in
this
Country
;
for
during
the
little
time
I
have
spent
in
it
,
I
have
observ'd
some
Showers
;
tho'
I
must
confess
it
rains
not
so
frequently
here
as
in
other
Countries
.
The
Nile
is
very
near
as
broad
as
the
Rhine
:
it
crosses
the
whole
Country
of
Egypt
;
and
during
the
time
of
its
Inundation
,
it
overflows
for
the
space
of
two
Months
,
all
the
neighbouring
Fields
,
which
only
are
inhabited
,
the
rest
of
the
Land
being
cover'd
with
dry
and
burning
Sands
.
It
falls
into
the
Mediterranean
by
two
Mouths
,
about
80
Miles
distant
.
'T
is
famous
over
all
the
World
for
its
Crocodiles
,
and
it
must
be
acknowledg'd
that
it
contains
a
great
number
of
very
large
ones
,
but
they
are
neither
venomous
,
nor
so
terrible
as
they
are
usually
represented
.
If
I
shou'd
tell
you
that
there
are
23000
Mosquees
in
this
City
,
you
'd
certainly
laugh
at
my
Credulity
,
that
cou'd
swallow
such
a
monstrous
Fable
.
However
,
Sir
,
't
is
held
by
all
the
Inhabitants
as
a
most
certain
Truth
;
and
they
are
no
less
firmly
persuaded
that
there
are
as
many
distinct
Quarters
or
Wards
,
containing
several
Streets
each
,
according
to
which
Computation
there
are
at
least
100000
Streets
in
the
City
.
'T
is
true
,
they
are
extremely
small
and
narrow
,
but
I
dare
not
positively
assure
you
that
there
is
such
a
prodigious
Number
of
'em
,
especially
since
I
never
counted
'em
.
'T
is
also
said
that
when
the
Plague
rages
in
this
Place
,
it
sweeps
away
10000
Persons
a-day
;
nor
do
I
think
this
Story
so
incredible
as
the
other
:
for
the
City
is
extremely
populous
,
and
there
is
as
great
a
Concourse
of
People
at
the
Bazar
or
Market
every
Thursday
,
as
at
the
most
crowded
Fairs
in
Europe
.
This
Bazar
is
the
only
to
lerable
Street
in
Cairo
,
and
the
Besestin
at
one
of
the
Ends
of
it
is
at
least
as
fine
and
rich
as
that
of
Constantinople
.
At
the
other
End
there
is
a
Market
of
Slaves
,
where
a
Man
may
be
always
accommodated
with
a
pretty
Girl
,
at
the
Rate
of
100
or
150
Piasters
.
All
the
Houses
are
of
Wood
,
with
Platforms
on
the
Top
,
after
the
Turkish
Fashion
:
The
Outside
is
as
mean
,
as
the
Inside
is
said
to
be
beautiful
.
'T
is
true
,
I
never
view'd
'em
within
,
and
therefore
will
not
desire
you
to
believe
that
they
deserve
the
last
part
of
that
Character
;
for
it
depends
entirely
upon
the
Testimony
of
the
Franks
,
who
are
guilty
of
an
unaccountable
Prejudice
,
in
magnifying
the
Turkish
Magnificence
.
This
is
certainly
a
very
great
and
inexcusable
Weakness
;
and
I
know
not
whether
it
is
more
unreasonable
to
admire
all
things
or
nothing
.
We
ought
indeed
to
do
Justice
to
every
thing
that
is
either
Good
or
Beautiful
:
but
I
know
no
Reason
that
obliges
us
to
extoll
the
most
ordinary
Beauty
,
or
rather
Deformity
it self
,
especially
in
a
Place
that
may
justly
boast
of
so
many
incomparable
Wonders
,
among
which
I
may
venture
to
reckon
the
ancient
and
vast
Castle
of
Cairo
.
'T
is
true
,
it
may
be
said
to
be
a
mere
Heap
of
inhabited
Ruines
:
but
these
Ruines
are
extremely
Magnificent
,
and
suitable
to
the
Glory
and
Power
of
Pharaoh
,
who
is
reputed
to
be
the
Founder
both
of
this
Structure
,
and
of
the
great
open
Pyramid
.
It
stands
directly
in
the
Middle
of
the
City
,
between
the
Old
aud
New
Town
,
on
so
large
and
steep
a
Rock
,
that
one
wou'd
think
it
was
purposely
fram'd
by
Nature
to
secure
and
command
Grand
Cairo
.
'T
is
above
two
Miles
in
Compass
,
and
was
formerly
surrounded
with
thick
Walls
,
like
those
of
Alexandria
;
flank'd
at
the
end
of
every
hundred
Paces
with
great
and
very
strong
Towers
.
It
has
four
Gates
which
lead
into
a
fine
open
Place
,
and
from
thence
to
several
Streets
;
so
that
it
seems
rather
to
be
a
Town
than
a
Castle
.
The
Turks
have
profan'd
these
venerable
Monuments
,
by
disfiguring
'em
with
their
Cottages
,
which
look
like
so
many
Rats-Nests
.
Some
Parts
of
Pharaoh's
Palace
remain
still
to
be
seen
:
The
Room
call'd
Joseph's
Hall
,
is
enrich'd
with
Gold
and
Azure
,
and
adorn'd
with
thirty
fine
Columns
of
Porphyry
.
That
of
his
Steward
or
Intendant
,
is
not
so
entire
,
and
is
only
remarkable
for
twelve
Columns
of
Thebaic
Marble
,
which
are
not
much
inferiour
to
the
former
in
Beauty
.
But
the
entirest
and
most
admirable
Work
in
this
Place
,
is
the
celebrated
Well
of
Joseph
.
'T
is
cut
or
hollow'd
in
the
hard
Rock
,
a
hundred
and
six
Foot
deep
,
of
a
square
Figure
,
each
Side
containing
eleven
Feet
,
without
reckn'ning
the
Stair-Case
,
which
is
seven
Foot
broad
,
and
cut
out
of
the
same
Rock
.
It
turns
round
the
Well
,
and
consists
of
twelve
several
Windings
,
six
of
which
contain
eighteen
Steps
a-piece
,
and
the
other
six
,
nineteen
;
so
that
the
total
Number
of
the
Steps
amounts
to
to
Two
hundred
twenty
two
.
The
Stairs
are
so
easie
and
commodious
,
that
they
make
two
Oxen
go
down
every
day
to
the
Bottom
of
the
Well
,
which
is
dry
,
and
from
thence
to
a
little
square
Room
,
where
there
is
a
Spring
,
out
of
which
they
draw
Water
continually
,
by
a
certain
Contrivance
of
Wheels
hung
round
with
Buckets
,
that
discharge
the
Water
into
a
Bason
or
Cistern
in
the
midst
of
the
dry
Pit
or
Well
;
from
whence
't
is
rais'd
up
in
Buckets
fasten'd
to
Ropes
,
that
are
let
down
and
drawn
up
again
by
the
turning
of
other
Wheels
.
Round
the
Stair-Case
on
the
Inside
there
are
Walls
that
serve
instead
of
Rails
,
and
secure
those
that
go
down
from
falling
.
At
the
Bottom
of
the
Well
there
is
a
Door
on
the
Right-hand
,
and
another
on
the
Left
,
both
cut
out
of
the
Rock
:
and
't
is
commonly
believ'd
that
one
of
'em
leads
to
the
Red-Sea
,
and
the
other
to
the
Pyramids
.
The
first
is
impossible
,
for
the
Sea
is
above
thirty
Leagues
distant
:
but
the
second
is
not
at
all
improbable
,
considering
the
great
Works
that
were
undertaken
and
perform'd
by
the
ancient
Egyptians
,
and
the
Care
they
took
to
dig
subterraneous
Passages
to
secure
their
Retreat
in
case
of
Necessity
.
'T
is
true
,
the
Greatness
of
the
Distance
,
and
Hardness
of
the
Rock
cou'd
not
but
make
this
Attempt
very
difficult
;
but
after
all
't
is
not
near
so
vast
a
Work
as
the
Pyramids
,
and
there
must
be
some
Passage
that
begins
at
this
Place
:
for
tho'
the
Doors
are
at
present
wall'd
up
,
't
is
plain
they
were
design'd
for
some
Use
.
You
will
not
be
surpriz'd
at
the
Magnificence
of
this
Well
,
nor
wonder
what
made
the
Egyptians
bestow
so
much
Time
,
Pains
and
Cost
on
the
digging
of
it
,
if
you
consider
how
precious
and
valuable
Water
is
in
this
Country
.
For
(
as
I
told
you
in
my
last
)
there
are
but
two
Springs
in
all
Egypt
,
This
,
and
That
of
Maltharea
,
of
which
I
shall
give
you
some
Account
before
I
finish
my
Letter
.
And
it
seems
the
Egyptian
Monarchs
were
afraid
that
these
two
Fountains
shou'd
at
last
be
dry'd
up
;
for
they
took
care
to
bring
Water
from
the
Nile
in
a
very
fine
Aqueduct
,
beginning
betwixt
Old
Cairo
and
Boulac
,
and
reaching
as
far
as
the
Castle
.
Not
far
from
Joseph's
Palace
there
is
a
dreadful
Prison
,
consisting
of
several
Dungeons
cut
out
of
the
Rock
.
It
bears
the
Name
of
the
same
Patriarch
,
because
't
was
here
,
according
to
the
common
Opinion
,
where
he
interpreted
the
Dreams
of
the
Bu●ler
and
Baker
:
if
this
Tradition
be
true
,
it
must
be
acknowledg'd
,
that
he
was
in
a
lamentable
Condition
,
for
this
is
certainly
a
very
dismal
Place
.
Maltharea
is
a
Place
about
a
large
League
distant
from
the
City
,
whither
the
Franks
often
walk
to
enjoy
the
pleasant
Shade
of
its
fine
Orange-Trees
,
and
refresh
themselves
with
its
delicious
Water
.
There
is
also
a
little
Chapel
in
the
same
place
,
which
,
't
is
said
,
the
Blessed
Virgin
chose
for
her
Abode
,
when
she
fled
to
Egypt
with
her
Son
Jesus
;
but
the
Circumstances
of
the
Story
are
so
improbable
,
that
it
seems
to
be
of
the
same
Stamp
with
other
fabulous
Legends
.
For
they
pretend
that
while
she
liv'd
in
that
little
House
,
perceiving
at
a
great
distance
the
Men
whom
Herod
had
sent
after
her
,
and
,
not
knowing
where
to
flee
,
an
old
Sycamore
burst
open
to
receive
her
and
the
little
Jesus
,
and
closing
again
secur'd
'em
from
the
Rage
of
their
Enemies
.
Assoon
as
the
Danger
was
over
the
miraculous
Tree
let
'em
forth
,
and
remain'd
open
ever
afterwards
;
but
't
is
extremely
decay'd
at
present
,
and
part
of
it
is
fall'n
away
.
However
I
spent
two
Hours
near
it
with
a
great
deal
of
Pleasure
;
for
the
Sun
shone
very
bright
that
Day
,
and
the
Verdure
of
the
Myrtle
,
Orange
,
and
Limon-Trees
was
extremely
agreeable
.
There
is
another
little
Chapel
in
Old
Cairo
,
where
the
Virgin
resided
for
some
time
:
and
near
that
there
are
large
Store-houses
for
Corn
,
which
are
thought
to
be
the
same
that
Joseph
built
when
he
laid
up
Provisions
against
the
seven
Years
of
Famine
.
Thus
,
Sir
,
I
have
entertain'd
you
with
an
Account
of
some
of
the
Aegyptian
Rarities
.
'T
is
true
,
there
are
many
other
remarkable
Monuments
in
this
Country
,
that
are
worthy
of
a
Traveller's
Curiosity
;
but
the
very
Sight
of
those
howling
Desarts
deterr
me
from
undertaking
a
Journey
that
wou'd
expose
me
to
so
many
Dangers
and
Inconveniencies
.
Besides
't
wou'd
require
a
great
deal
of
Money
,
and
I
begin
already
to
perceive
that
I
must
take
more
than
ordinary
care
to
Husband
my
Stock
.
I
find
also
that
the
same
consideration
will
not
suffer
me
to
prosecute
my
design
of
visiting
the
Holy
Land
,
tho'
't
is
not
without
an
extream
reluctancy
that
I
'm
forc'd
to
deprive
my self
of
the
fight
of
a
place
which
the
Saviour
of
the
World
hallow'd
with
his
presence
.
But
the
Journey
is
prodigiously
chargeable
,
and
I
'm
resolv'd
to
deny
my self
that
satisfaction
rather
than
to
put
my self
in
a
condition
that
might
oblige
me
to
return
to
France
.
I
intend
then
to
Embark
on
a
Greek
Saique
,
which
in
few
days
will
set
Sail
for
Smyrna
,
where
,
I
hope
,
I
may
easily
find
an
occasion
for
Venice
.
I
am
,
SIR
,
Your
&c.
Cairo
,
Feb.
1691.
LETTER
XVIII
.
SIR
,
AFter
a
very
troublesome
Voyage
that
lasted
a
whole
Month
,
I
arriv'd
at
Smyrna
,
a
City
of
Natolia
,
a
hundred
Miles
from
Scio
,
where
you
may
remember
I
stay'd
so
long
that
I
found
Matter
enough
for
a
whole
Letter
.
Smyrna
was
formerly
seated
on
two
Mountains
,
separated
by
a
pleasant
Valley
that
divided
the
City
into
two
Parts
,
one
of
which
was
not
above
a
quarter
of
a
League
distant
from
the
Sea
.
This
Mountain
is
so
high
that
you
cou'd
not
go
up
or
rather
climb
the
steep
ascent
in
less
than
a
full
quarter
of
an
hour
:
And
on
the
top
of
it
was
a
large
Castle
fortifi'd
both
by
Nature
and
Art
;
for
besides
the
advantages
of
its
Situation
,
't
was
surrounded
with
high
and
thick
Walls
,
on
which
there
was
a
Parapet
embattel'd
after
the
Oriental
fashion
;
and
certainly
't
is
not
easily
conceivable
how
so
many
Stones
cou'd
be
carry'd
up
so
high
.
The
Gate
of
the
Castle
is
defended
by
two
round
Towers
join'd
to
the
Wall
:
And
in
the
Stone-work
of
the
Tower
that
stands
on
the
right
hand
as
you
enter
,
there
is
a
Figure
of
a
Woman's
Head
and
Neck
,
a
Foot
and
a
half
high
,
which
is
said
to
represent
a
certain
Amazon
call'd
Smyrna
,
who
having
Conquer'd
the
City
,
call'd
it
by
her
own
Name
,
and
built
the
Castle
.
The
inside
is
a
meer
heap
of
Ruines
,
among
which
I
observ'd
a
very
fair
Cistern
twenty
Paces
long
and
twelve
broad
,
Vaulted
and
supported
by
six
fine
square
Pillars
which
are
all
entire
.
Besides
,
there
is
a
little
Chapel
built
like
a
Mosquee
,
but
it
seems
not
to
be
very
ancient
.
This
Castle
commanded
the
City
on
one
side
,
and
the
Port
on
the
other
;
and
from
thence
you
have
an
unobstructed
Prospect
of
the
Sea
.
'T
is
at
present
only
Inhabited
by
a
Turk
with
his
Wife
and
Daughter
,
who
is
oblig'd
to
keep
Watch
,
and
give
notice
to
the
Merchants
when
he
discovers
a
Vessel
.
Descending
from
thence
we
saw
the
Ruines
of
an
Amphitheater
,
about
which
there
are
Ditches
where
the
Lions
were
kept
;
and
somewhat
higher
are
the
Niches
where
the
Magistrates
sate
.
'T
was
here
that
S.
Polycarp
,
the
first
Archbishop
of
Smyrna
was
crown'd
with
Martyrdom
.
He
was
one
of
St.
John's
Disciples
,
and
yet
even
then
the
Schism
of
the
Greek
Church
was
begun
;
for
he
was
sent
to
the
Pope
to
Negotiate
an
Accommodation
,
tho'
with
very
little
Success
.
The
City
was
heretofore
very
large
,
as
it
appears
by
the
compass
of
its
Walls
;
for
if
any
Man
will
give
himself
the
trouble
to
take
an
exact
view
of
their
Ruines
,
as
I
have
done
,
he
will
be
quickly
convinc'd
,
that
't
was
above
twelve
Miles
about
:
And
the
Error
of
those
who
contract
its
Dimensions
,
is
only
an
effect
of
their
Carelesness
.
There
is
a
very
fine
Aqueduct
still
to
be
seen
,
which
brought
Water
to
the
part
of
the
City
next
the
Sea
.
It
reaches
from
one
Hill
to
the
other
,
and
contains
300
Paces
in
length
.
In
the
same
part
of
the
Town
there
are
very
ancient
Burying-places
,
which
at
present
belong
to
the
Jews
:
And
adjoining
to
these
are
the
Burying-places
of
the
English
and
Dutch
,
where
there
are
very
magnificent
Marble
Tombs
,
enrich'd
with
fine
Relievo's
.
This
Place
is
call'd
St.
Veneranda
,
from
the
Name
of
a
Greek
Church
,
near
which
there
is
a
Spring
,
fam'd
for
curing
Fevers
miraculously
;
tho'
I
'm
confident
its
Vertue
consists
only
in
quenching
the
Thirst
,
which
it
does
very
effectually
,
for
't
is
extreamly
cold
and
clear
,
and
may
for
that
reason
be
reckon'd
one
of
the
Rarities
of
Smyrna
,
where
the
Water
is
generally
bad
.
This
City
was
ruin'd
in
the
time
of
Mark
Anthony
,
who
caus'd
it
to
be
rebuilt
at
the
foot
of
the
Hill
on
the
Sea-side
,
where
it
stands
at
present
,
stretching
in
length
about
two
short
Miles
,
and
a
little
above
one
Mile
in
breadth
.
This
situation
is
more
convenient
for
Trade
than
the
former
,
and
besides
,
the
Heat
of
the
Summer
is
agreeably
temper'd
by
a
cool
Breeze
that
blows
every
day
.
But
these
Advantages
are
counter-balanc'd
by
the
Earthquakes
that
happen
so
frequently
in
this
place
,
and
make
such
a
terrible
havock
that
the
Inhabitants
oftentimes
wish
that
their
Town
were
plac'd
again
on
the
Hill
,
where
they
think
the
danger
wou'd
not
be
so
great
.
For
't
is
generally
believ'd
,
that
the
Earthquakes
are
occasion'd
by
the
vast
and
deep
Concavities
made
by
the
subterraneous
Streams
that
fall
from
the
Mountain
,
where
the
Wind
and
Vapours
being
pent
up
,
and
endeavouring
to
break
forth
impetuously
,
cause
those
dreadful
Jolts
that
are
felt
here
so
often
.
However
I
can
assure
you
,
that
the
Hill
is
much
less
subject
to
Earthquakes
than
the
place
where
the
City
stands
at
present
:
For
since
I
came
hither
there
happen'd
four
in
one
day
,
and
all
of
'em
strong
and
violent
enough
to
strike
a
Terror
into
those
that
are
not
accustom'd
to
'em
.
Nor
does
their
frequency
make
'em
less
dreadful
to
the
Inhabitants
of
this
place
;
for
as
soon
as
they
perceive
the
least
shaking
of
the
Earth
they
run
out
of
their
Houses
with
all
the
signs
of
Fear
and
Amazement
,
and
call
upon
God
,
every
one
according
to
the
Rites
of
his
Religion
.
Nor
can
this
be
justly
call'd
a
Panic
Terror
,
for
they
were
so
roughly
handl'd
by
an
Earthquake
three
Years
ago
,
that
I
I
wonder
how
any
of
'em
durst
afterwards
venture
to
repair
their
ruin'd
Habitations
.
About
Noon
,
when
they
were
all
at
Dinner
,
the
Earth
began
to
shake
so
furiously
as
if
the
whole
Machine
of
the
Universe
had
been
falling
to
pieces
.
A
thousand
Houses
were
over-turn'd
in
an
Instant
with
a
hideous
dinn
,
and
3000
Persons
were
buried
under
the
Ruines
.
The
rest
who
had
the
good
Fortune
to
escape
,
were
seiz'd
with
a
terrible
Consternation
,
and
ran
wildly
about
,
not
knowing
whither
to
flee
,
nor
where
to
hide
themselves
;
for
they
were
still
alarm'd
with
repeated
Jolts
.
And
besides
,
the
lurking
Fires
that
lay
hid
among
the
Ruines
were
fann'd
and
blown
up
so
violently
by
a
strong
Gale
,
which
accompany'd
the
Earthquake
,
that
the
Flame
cou'd
not
be
extinguish'd
for
the
space
of
two
days
,
till
the
very
Rubbish
of
the
Houses
was
consum'd
.
Add
to
this
dismal
Spectacle
the
howlings
of
those
Wretches
that
were
not
quite
kill'd
by
the
fall
of
the
Houses
,
and
you
'll
find
your self
oblig'd
to
acknowledge
,
that
never
any
accident
produc'd
a
more
lamentable
Scene
of
Misery
.
At
last
the
Seamen
that
were
on
Board
the
Vessels
in
the
Port
,
came
a-shore
,
and
found
above
500
Persons
alive
under
the
Ruines
,
some
with
broken
Legs
,
and
others
with
broken
Arms
;
some
were
bruis'd
all
over
,
and
all
in
general
were
Objects
of
Pity
and
Compassion
.
The
Captains
of
the
Ships
carry'd
those
who
were
Hurt
or
Wounded
on
Board
,
with
the
most
considerable
Persons
of
their
respective
Nations
:
But
the
rest
of
the
Inhabitants
were
forc'd
to
lie
abroad
till
they
had
prepar'd
new
Lodgings
,
which
were
only
some
paltry
Huts
of
Straw
.
That
part
of
the
City
where
the
Franks
live
was
most
violently
shaken
,
so
that
they
were
all
Sufferers
,
and
most
of
'em
lost
in
one
day
the
fruit
of
many
Years
Labour
.
Some
that
had
strip'd
themselves
to
the
very
Shirt
to
enjoy
with
greater
Pleasure
the
Coolness
of
the
Wind
,
were
reduc'd
to
the
necessity
of
begging
Coats
to
cover
their
Nakedness
.
As
for
the
Societies
of
Merchants
,
tho'
they
were
considerable
Sharers
in
the
common
Calamity
,
the
greatness
of
their
Stocks
kept
'em
from
falling
into
such
an
excess
of
Misery
.
The
English
and
Dutch
particularly
are
so
rich
,
that
they
can
easily
support
the
loss
of
50000
Livres
:
But
every
Man
suffer'd
proportionably
to
his
Estate
,
and
it
may
be
said
that
the
Poor
lost
more
than
the
Rich
,
because
they
were
depriv'd
of
their
All.
Monsieur
Fabre
the
French
Consul
perish'd
under
the
Ruines
,
notwithstanding
all
the
Endeavours
that
were
us'd
to
save
him
;
and
several
Rich
Merchants
had
the
same
Fate
.
Next
Year
the
Plague
broke
forth
among
those
whom
the
Fire
and
the
Earthquake
had
spar'd
;
and
the
last
Year
may
be
reckon'd
as
Calamitous
as
either
of
the
former
,
by
reason
of
the
horrible
Disorders
that
were
committed
here
by
the
Algerines
and
Barbarians
.
Thus
,
within
the
compass
of
Three
Years
,
this
City
has
suffer'd
Four
of
the
severest
Judgments
that
are
usually
inflicted
by
Heaven
.
These
Misfortunes
wou'd
have
ruin'd
a
poor
Town
,
but
there
are
hardly
any
Footsteps
of
'em
left
in
this
;
for
't
is
almost
quite
Rebuilt
already
,
and
the
Street
where
the
Franks
live
is
fairer
than
't
was
before
.
This
is
the
most
considerable
seat
of
Commerce
in
the
Levant
,
and
the
Dignity
of
the
Consuls
who
reside
here
is
next
to
that
of
Ambassadors
.
Their
Jurisdiction
is
extended
over
Natolia
,
Scio
,
Metelin
,
and
several
other
Islands
of
the
Archipelago
,
in
which
they
appoint
Vice-Consuls
,
who
govern
under
their
Authority
.
This
is
a
very
Honourable
Employment
,
and
those
who
are
possest
of
it
are
much
respected
,
even
by
the
Turks
,
who
have
as
great
a
Veneration
for
Consuls
as
for
Ambassadors
,
and
receive
'em
at
Audiences
with
the
same
Ceremonies
.
When
they
go
thro'
the
Streets
,
the
Turks
draw
up
in
Files
,
and
open
a
Passage
for
'em
,
as
for
a
Bassa
:
Nor
do
they
ever
walk
abroad
without
two
Interpreters
,
and
as
many
Janisaries
,
who
march
before
'em
,
and
serve
instead
of
a
Life-Guard
;
and
besides
,
they
are
accompany'd
with
two
or
three
Merchants
,
and
follow'd
by
their
Servants
in
Livery
.
But
on
the
days
of
Audience
their
Train
is
more
numerous
and
splendid
,
for
they
are
always
preceded
by
six
Interpreters
,
and
a
like
number
of
Janisaries
,
with
Zercola's
on
their
Heads
;
and
follow'd
by
all
the
most
considerable
Persons
of
the
Nation
,
whose
number
sometimes
amounts
to
above
forty
.
Nor
does
the
Grandeur
of
this
Post
consist
meerly
in
external
Pomp
;
for
their
Power
is
as
considerable
as
their
State
,
and
their
Authority
over
their
respective
Nations
exceeds
that
of
ordinary
Governors
,
so
much
the
more
as
they
are
farther
distant
from
the
Court
.
'T
is
true
,
that
in
the
management
of
Affairs
that
meerly
regard
Trade
,
they
are
oblig'd
to
call
a
Meeting
of
the
Principal
Merchants
,
who
decide
the
Matter
by
plurality
of
Voices
,
and
the
Consul
is
only
President
of
the
Assembly
.
But
in
all
cases
that
relate
to
the
administration
of
Justice
or
the
Government
of
a
City
,
he
represents
the
Person
of
the
Sovereign
,
and
is
as
exactly
obey'd
.
He
is
the
absolute
Judge
of
all
Suits
or
Actions
,
whether
Criminal
or
Civil
;
and
has
under
him
a
Chancellor
,
who
performs
the
Office
of
a
Clerk
and
Notary
,
a
Secretary
,
and
a
Treasurer
,
who
receives
all
the
Money
that
is
sent
either
on
the
publick
Account
,
or
by
way
of
private
Commission
.
The
Dignity
of
his
Function
is
also
conspicuous
in
the
Church
,
where
he
sits
in
an
arm'd
Chair
,
with
a
Cushion
of
Crimson
Velvet
to
kneel
upon
.
But
the
main
advantage
of
this
Office
is
in
my
Opinion
the
largeness
of
its
Revenue
,
which
seldom
or
never
amounts
to
less
than
18000
French
Livres
.
All
Franks
are
oblig'd
at
their
Arrival
to
address
themselves
to
their
respective
Consuls
,
and
desire
their
Protection
,
or
otherwise
must
expect
to
be
seiz'd
,
and
sent
back
to
their
own
Country
.
Yet
,
without
any
regard
to
that
Custom
,
I
have
put
my self
under
the
Protection
of
Monsieur
de
Hochepied
,
the
Dutch
Consul
:
For
when
I
went
to
see
him
,
and
acquainted
him
with
my
design
,
he
offer'd
me
that
Favour
with
so
much
Generosity
,
that
I
neither
cou'd
,
nor
was
willing
,
to
refuse
it
.
Nor
did
his
Civility
stop
there
,
for
he
oblig'd
me
to
accept
of
a
Lodging
in
his
fine
House
,
where
I
need
not
be
afraid
of
my
Countrymen's
Indignation
.
However
,
to
avoid
any
accident
that
might
happen
,
I
seldom
or
never
go
abroad
but
in
his
Company
,
tho'
,
considering
the
kindness
he
expresses
to
me
on
all
occasions
,
I
believe
I
might
walk
alone
without
any
danger
.
For
he
is
so
much
honour'd
,
respected
,
and
belov'd
by
all
the
Nations
who
reside
here
,
and
even
by
the
French
themselves
,
that
there
is
not
one
Person
,
small
or
great
,
who
wou'd
not
run
to
Japan
,
rather
than
disoblige
him
.
He
is
usually
call'd
,
The
Consul
,
without
any
Addition
,
as
if
he
were
the
only
Person
in
Smyrna
who
cou'd
pretend
to
that
Character
:
The
rest
of
the
Consuls
are
known
by
the
Names
of
their
respective
Nations
,
but
he
is
The
Consul
by
way
of
Eminency
.
And
,
to
give
you
a
better
Idea
of
him
,
I
can
assure
you
that
so
universal
a
Love
and
Esteem
is
purely
the
effect
of
his
Merit
;
for
he
is
Master
of
a
vast
Wit
,
his
Temper
is
sweet
,
civil
,
and
obliging
,
and
in
one
world
he
is
a
compleat
Person
,
which
I
think
is
the
justest
and
most
expressive
Account
I
can
give
you
of
him
.
There
are
so
many
Perfections
requir'd
to
make
a
Man
worthy
of
that
Character
,
that
a
Compleat
Man
is
certainly
one
of
the
greatest
Rarities
of
this
Age
:
But
all
these
Qualifications
are
united
in
him
.
He
is
descended
of
a
Noble
and
Ancient
Family
in
Holland
,
which
can
boast
of
an
uninterrupted
Succession
for
above
300
Years
,
and
is
Ally'd
to
the
Principal
Houses
in
the
Netherlands
.
Among
the
rest
I
shall
only
mention
its
late
Alliance
with
the
most
ancient
Family
of
the
Collier's
,
which
is
originally
of
Scotland
:
Their
[
](A36827-e36900-b)*
*
Advance
.
Device
is
the
finest
that
ever
I
saw
,
nor
do
they
bear
it
in
vain
.
For
they
have
upon
all
occasions
signaliz'd
their
Courage
in
Military
Atchievements
;
and
there
are
at
present
three
of
that
Family
in
the
King's
Service
,
who
seem
to
make
Valour
their
Favourite
Vertue
,
and
are
known
and
esteem'd
by
the
whole
Army
,
both
for
that
and
a
thousand
other
no
less
glorious
Endowments
.
Madam
de
Hochepied
is
the
Sister
of
the
present
,
and
Daughter
of
the
late
Dutch
Ambassador
.
She
's
a
finish'd
Beauty
,
and
has
the
Air
of
a
Princess
;
and
besides
(
which
is
as
true
as
it
seems
incredible
)
she
is
absolutely
Mistress
of
Seven
of
the
most
difficult
and
opposite
Languages
in
the
World
.
For
besides
the
Dutch
,
which
is
her
natural
Tongue
,
she
speaks
the
French
,
Italian
,
Greek
,
Russian
,
Turkish
,
and
Arabian
Languages
,
and
speaks
'em
all
so
perfectly
well
,
that
I
have
often
heard
her
explaining
to
Interpreters
the
true
sense
of
certain
hard
Words
,
of
which
they
were
ignorant
before
.
In
short
,
she
's
in
all
respects
an
admirable
Person
.
Judge
,
Sir
,
whether
I
can
think
the
time
tedious
which
I
spend
in
such
agreeable
Company
,
and
in
a
House
where
I
'm
so
kindly
entertain'd
;
and
whether
you
can
blame
me
for
not
hastening
my
departure
.
I
'm
resolv'd
to
expect
an
occasion
for
Venice
,
and
I
believe
't
will
be
a
long
time
before
I
can
find
one
;
because
the
Venetian
Vessels
never
venture
to
appear
in
this
part
of
the
Sea
,
till
the
Turkish
Fleet
be
laid
up
,
tho'
they
have
no
great
reason
to
dread
it
,
since
the
Grand
Signior
,
for
all
his
Grandeur
,
is
Master
only
of
Eleven
Ships
of
War
.
'T
is
true
,
if
all
his
Galleys
wou'd
put
to
Sea
,
their
number
might
at
least
amount
to
200
;
but
as
Affairs
are
manag'd
at
present
,
his
Navy
makes
no
great
Figure
.
You
may
expect
a
more
particular
Account
of
these
things
in
my
next
.
In
the
mean
time
,
I
am
,
SIR
,
Your
&c.
Smyrna
,
Apr.
1691.
LETTER
XIX
.
SIR
,
YOU
might
justly
accuse
me
of
Laziness
,
or
want
of
Complaisance
,
if
I
shou'd
not
employ
the
leisure
I
enjoy
at
present
in
recollecting
my
Observations
concerning
the
Government
,
Religion
,
Manners
,
and
Customs
of
the
Turks
.
I
shall
endeavour
therefore
to
satisfie
your
Curiosity
,
by
entertaining
you
with
a
short
account
of
these
Subjects
,
avoiding
all
impertinent
Repetitions
of
those
obvious
and
common
Remarks
that
are
to
be
met
with
in
almost
every
Book
of
Voyages
.
And
I
hope
the
Points
I
propose
to
handle
will
furnish
me
with
sufficient
Matter
for
Three
Letters
;
the
first
of
which
shall
treat
of
the
Government
,
the
second
of
the
Religion
,
and
the
third
of
the
Manners
and
Customs
of
the
Turks
.
The
Turkish
Empire
,
according
to
the
primitive
and
fundamental
Constitution
of
the
Government
,
is
absolutely
and
entirely
Despotic
;
that
is
,
a
Supream
and
Arbitrary
Power
is
lodg●d
in
the
Person
of
the
Emperor
,
whose
Will
is
the
only
Law
by
which
he
Rules
,
and
who
acknowledges
no
other
Maxim
of
Government
than
Sic
volo
,
sic
jubeo
.
He
is
not
curb'd
by
any
written
Law
or
Custom
,
and
those
whom
he
Oppresses
have
not
so
much
as
a
right
to
Complain
.
He
may
take
away
any
Man's
Estate
,
and
either
keep
it
,
or
give
it
to
another
.
Sometimes
he
passes
by
the
most
ancient
Bassa's
,
and
in
one
day
advances
a
simple
Chiaux
,
or
even
a
Cook
,
to
the
Dignity
of
Grand
Visier
.
He
sends
for
the
Heads
of
those
whom
he
has
a
Mind
to
be
rid
of
,
who
are
Murder'd
without
any
Trial
or
Form
of
Justice
,
and
even
without
knowing
the
Reason
of
his
Displeasure
.
In
one
Word
,
his
Pleasure
is
the
supreme
and
uncontroulable
Law
.
This
unlimited
Power
of
the
Sultan
is
founded
on
the
Mahometan
Religion
,
which
enjoins
a
blind
Obedience
to
all
his
Commands
under
Pain
of
Damnation
.
But
the
Turks
of
late
have
render'd
their
Slavery
more
tolerable
;
for
tho'
they
have
made
no
Alteration
in
the
Constitution
of
the
Government
,
their
Practices
are
very
different
from
what
they
were
heretofore
.
The
Grand
Visier
is
the
Chief
Minister
of
State
,
and
is
call'd
King
by
the
Turks
,
to
shew
how
much
the
Sultans
slight
and
undervalue
that
Title
,
in
Imitation
of
the
Old
Roman
Emperours
,
who
bestow'd
Kingdoms
on
their
Favourites
.
This
is
the
Reason
why
the
Grand
Signior
stiles
himself
The
Protector
of
Persecuted
Kings
,
and
the
Distributer
of
Crowns
;
tho'
he
wears
none
himself
,
not
even
on
the
Day
of
his
Public
Inauguration
,
for
the
only
Badge
of
his
Imperial
Dignity
is
a
magnificent
Sabre
,
enrich'd
with
precious
Stones
,
which
the
Mufti
girds
to
his
Side
.
The
Grand
Visier
is
entrusted
with
the
whole
Management
of
Affairs
,
and
his
Power
is
almost
equal
to
the
Sultan's
.
He
is
in
a
great
measure
the
Arbiter
of
Peace
and
War
,
and
creates
the
Fortune
of
all
the
Great
Officers
in
the
Empire
.
'T
is
true
,
he
ought
not
to
do
any
thing
without
the
Advice
of
a
Council
,
compos'd
of
seven
Bassa's
,
call'd
the
Visiers
of
the
Bench
:
but
they
have
only
a
Shadow
of
Authority
,
which
scarce
deserves
to
be
mention'd
.
The
next
in
Order
,
are
the
Bassa's
,
who
are
a
sort
of
Vice-Roys
in
the
Provinces
.
Their
Office
is
to
administer
Justice
exactly
,
and
to
keep
the
People
in
Subjection
to
the
Government
.
They
are
also
oblig'd
to
pay
a
yearly
Tribute
to
the
Grand
Signior
,
both
of
Money
and
Slaves
,
without
reck'ning
the
Carache
,
Customs
,
and
other
Imposts
that
are
usually
exacted
.
This
is
the
utmost
Extent
of
the
Legal
Authority
of
the
Bassa's
;
but
they
commonly
abuse
their
Power
,
and
are
more
arbitrary
Tyrants
than
the
Grand
Signior
himself
.
Their
principal
Aim
is
to
raise
their
Fortune
speedily
;
and
in
order
to
that
they
rob
the
Widow
and
Orphan
,
and
fill
the
Land
with
Spoil
and
Oppression
,
never
scrupling
to
commit
a
gainful
Crime
,
tho'
attended
with
the
basest
Circumstances
.
The
Sultan
is
forc'd
to
dissemble
his
Knowledge
of
these
Disorders
,
for
want
of
Power
to
suppress
'em
:
for
every
Bassa
maintains
some
standing
Forces
at
his
own
Charge
,
whose
Assistance
he
may
command
upon
all
Occasions
,
if
their
Payment
be
not
wholly
neglected
.
Whereas
the
Sultan
,
who
for
the
most
part
wants
Money
to
pay
his
Army
,
and
perhaps
does
not
shew
himself
twice
in
his
Life
to
the
Soldiers
,
is
so
far
from
being
Master
of
'em
,
that
he
is
almost
always
constrain'd
to
submit
to
their
Authority
.
This
is
the
fatal
Source
of
all
those
Seditions
that
have
so
often
shaken
,
and
will
at
last
overturn
the
Empire
.
For
how
can
we
suppose
that
Subjects
will
either
love
or
fear
a
lazy
Prince
,
that
takes
no
Share
in
the
Business
of
State
or
War
:
a
Prince
,
that
contents
himself
with
a
Chimerical
Show
of
Grandeur
and
Power
,
and
seems
rather
to
be
a
Mock-King
in
a
Farce
than
a
Ruler
of
Kingdoms
?
'T
is
plain
both
from
Reason
and
Experience
,
that
a
great
Monarch
,
who
wou'd
be
the
absolute
Master
of
his
Subjects
,
ought
to
apply
himself
to
the
Execution
and
Reformation
of
the
Laws
,
and
above
all
,
to
gain
the
Esteem
and
Affection
of
his
Soldiers
,
whom
he
ought
to
look
upon
as
the
surest
Prop
and
Support
of
his
Authority
.
An
Army
in
a
State
cannot
remain
indifferent
;
they
must
and
will
have
a
Master
;
and
will
either
continue
faithful
to
the
Crown
,
or
espouse
the
Interest
of
some
designing
Subject
:
And
therefore
it
ought
to
be
the
Prince's
Care
to
discover
their
Inclinations
,
and
to
act
accordingly
.
Kings
are
as
feeble
Creatures
as
other
Men
,
and
as
unable
to
perform
any
Great
Action
by
their
own
Power
:
but
when
they
are
at
the
Head
of
100000
Men
,
all
devoted
to
their
Interest
,
't
is
then
they
become
the
Terrour
of
the
World
,
and
their
Power
is
almost
as
boundless
as
their
Ambition
.
The
Fate
of
Monarchs
depends
on
their
Armies
,
and
without
these
neither
Alexander
,
Caesar
,
nor
Lewis
XIV
.
cou'd
have
gain'd
one
Inch
of
Ground
.
This
is
so
evident
and
certain
a
Truth
,
that
never
any
Person
had
the
Confidence
to
controvert
it
:
and
I
believe
the
Ottoman
Emperours
are
of
the
same
Opinion
,
tho'
all
their
Actions
seem
to
be
grounded
on
very
different
,
and
even
opposite
Maxims
.
A
Prince
that
wou'd
secure
the
Loyalty
of
his
Forces
,
must
take
care
of
'em
himself
,
visit
'em
often
,
give
out
all
Orders
,
preferr
Men
of
known
Merit
,
keep
both
the
Officers
and
Soldiers
under
an
exact
Discipline
,
and
pay
'em
as
punctually
as
he
can
.
The
Grand
Signior
observes
not
one
of
these
Maxims
,
and
therefore
he
may
blame
himself
for
the
Unruliness
of
his
Army
.
But
the
Government
is
guilty
of
another
Blunder
,
which
,
in
my
Opinion
,
is
no
less
fatal
than
the
former
;
I
mean
the
usual
way
of
appeasing
Seditions
,
which
break
forth
oftner
than
once
a
Year
.
For
every
Tumult
that
shakes
the
Sultan's
Throne
,
costs
him
the
Heads
of
a
hundred
of
his
Principal
Officers
:
The
Grand
Visier
is
commonly
made
the
first
Sacrifice
,
and
afterwards
that
important
Charge
is
entrusted
to
some
young
and
unexperienc'd
Person
,
as
if
a
Minister
of
State
cou'd
spring
up
in
a
Night
like
a
Mushroom
.
This
Custom
is
directly
opposite
to
common
Sence
,
which
teaches
us
that
no
Man
ought
to
be
advanc'd
to
so
high
a
Post
,
but
one
that
has
been
long
accustom'd
to
State-Business
,
and
has
spent
his
whole
Life
in
fitting
himself
for
the
Management
of
so
great
a
Trust
.
These
Considerations
give
me
an
Idea
of
the
Turkish
Empire
,
which
I
cannot
express
better
than
by
comparing
it
to
a
Coach
drawn
by
a
Sett
of
ungovernable
Horses
,
each
of
which
pulls
a
contrary
Way
.
If
we
descend
lower
,
and
take
a
more
particular
View
of
the
Government
,
we
shall
every
where
find
the
dismal
Effects
of
these
Disorders
.
The
Distempers
of
the
Head
are
usually
communicated
to
the
Inferiour
Members
:
And
I
never
saw
a
Country
,
where
Justice
is
so
often
and
so
impudently
perverted
,
by
those
who
are
entrusted
with
the
Execution
of
it
.
I
know
't
is
the
Custom
of
some
Travellers
to
magnifie
the
Turkish
way
of
administring
Justice
:
but
such
a
groundless
Conceit
is
only
the
Effect
of
the
powerful
Inclination
most
Men
have
to
admire
every
thing
that
is
unusual
or
extraordinary
.
And
I
'm
confident
that
a
bare
Account
of
their
Method
of
Judging
Civil
and
Criminal
Causes
,
will
give
you
a
very
different
Notion
of
their
boasted
Justice
;
You
,
I
say
,
who
are
not
tainted
with
those
common
Prejudices
,
but
are
always
wont
to
judge
of
things
as
they
are
in
themselves
,
without
considering
whether
they
are
rare
or
common
.
They
have
no
written
Laws
but
what
are
contain'd
in
the
Alcoran
,
which
they
hold
to
be
the
Rule
of
Faith
,
and
Standard
of
Justice
,
and
every
thing
that
it
forbids
is
esteem'd
unlawful
and
punishable
.
Nevertheless
the
Bassa's
and
Cadi's
judge
as
they
please
,
for
the
Book
is
very
short
,
and
besides
a
great
deal
fuller
of
Dreams
and
Absurdities
than
of
Laws
or
Moral
Precepts
;
and
those
few
it
contains
are
so
ambiguously
express'd
,
and
deliver'd
in
so
loose
a
Manner
,
that
these
greedy
Officers
cannot
desire
a
more
favourable
Opportunity
to
satisfie
their
Avarice
.
Besides
they
judge
without
Appeal
,
and
cause
the
Sentence
to
be
executed
upon
the
Spot
.
'T
is
true
,
some
highly
injur'd
Persons
have
recourse
to
the
Grand
Signior's
Divan
;
but
then
the
Injustice
must
be
very
plain
and
inexcusable
,
or
't
is
in
vain
to
expect
Satisfaction
;
and
that
is
so
seldom
obtain'd
,
that
few
prudent
Men
will
venture
on
so
troublesome
and
expensive
a
Journey
:
for
since
't
is
not
the
Custom
to
record
either
the
Pleadings
,
or
the
Sentence
,
the
Judge
may
easily
elude
all
the
Arguments
of
his
Accusers
.
'T
is
true
,
the
Number
of
the
Plaintiffs
is
usually
so
great
,
and
the
Informations
of
other
Officers
so
positive
,
that
the
Truth
is
at
last
discover'd
,
and
the
Offenders
are
punish'd
.
But
tho'
few
Cadi's
leave
the
Office
with
Honour
,
there
is
not
the
least
Care
taken
to
repair
the
Losses
of
those
whom
they
have
ruin'd
.
For
,
besides
what
I
intimated
before
,
that
their
Proceedings
are
not
register'd
,
the
new
Cadi
is
usually
as
great
a
Rogue
as
his
Predecessour
;
so
that
the
poor
oppress'd
People
must
bear
their
Misfortunes
as
patiently
as
they
can
,
without
the
least
hope
of
Redress
.
The
Cadi's
are
mere
Beggars
when
they
are
first
advanc'd
to
that
gainfull
Post
,
and
their
Commission
lasts
but
a
Year
:
yet
in
less
than
three
Months
these
tatter'd
Scoundrels
exchange
their
Rags
for
gawdy
Habits
,
and
a
magnificent
Equipage
,
and
at
the
End
of
the
Year
are
Masters
of
vast
Estates
.
We
exclaim
against
our
Lawyers
in
France
,
and
will
not
suffer
those
who
have
spend
20
or
30
Years
in
a
perpetual
Hurry
of
Business
,
to
enjoy
the
Fruit
of
their
Labours
in
Peace
,
tho'
the
Fortunes
they
acquire
are
for
the
most
part
so
small
,
that
they
can
hardly
subsist
without
Employment
.
But
I
'm
confident
a
little
Acquaintance
with
the
Customs
of
this
Country
wou'd
quickly
stop
the
Mouths
of
our
Grumblers
:
for
if
the
Cadi
of
a
considerable
City
were
permitted
to
hold
his
Office
Ten
Years
,
he
wou'd
be
richer
than
a
President
au
Mortier
.
He
that
went
last
from
Smyrna
gain'd
above
40000
Crowns
;
and
you
may
easily
judge
how
miserably
the
Inhabitants
were
oppress'd
by
a
Judge
that
cou'd
in
one
Year
heap
up
so
great
a
Treasure
.
'T
is
true
he
durst
not
expect
the
Coming
of
his
Successour
,
but
march'd
off
eight
days
before
,
without
staying
to
take
leave
of
his
Friends
,
according
to
the
prudent
Custom
of
his
Brother-Rogues
.
For
they
are
oblig'd
to
give
an
Account
of
their
Administration
to
the
succeeding
Cadi's
,
who
make
a
Report
to
the
Grand
Signior's
Divan
,
and
even
secure
their
Persons
when
the
Comlaints
against
'em
are
very
numerous
and
grievous
.
But
they
are
too
conscious
of
their
Guilt
,
to
stand
a
Trial
which
they
know
wou'd
infallibly
ruine
'em
;
and
therefore
to
avoid
so
terrible
a
Danger
,
they
go
immediately
to
their
Patron
at
the
Port
,
who
receives
his
Share
in
the
Booty
,
and
grants
'em
his
Protection
,
without
which
they
wou'd
be
punish'd
without
Mercy
.
Yet
some
of
'em
chuse
rather
to
buy
their
Peace
of
the
new
Cadi
,
who
,
for
8
or
10
Purses
,
which
amounts
to
12
or
15000
Livres
,
gives
'em
as
favourable
a
Certificate
as
they
can
desire
.
All
Civil
Affairs
are
judg'd
by
the
Cadi
according
to
the
Deposition
of
Witnesses
,
without
any
regard
to
Writings
.
For
suppose
you
had
lent
1000
Piasters
to
a
Man
upon
his
Note
or
Bond
,
if
he
can
but
suborn
two
Men
to
affirm
that
they
saw
him
pay
you
such
a
Summ
,
you
must
infallibly
lose
your
Money
.
This
Custom
gives
a
fair
Opportunity
to
Men
of
dishonest
Principles
to
abuse
their
Creditors
;
since
they
may
easily
find
Witnesses
to
prove
any
thing
,
and
even
without
giving
themselves
the
trouble
to
enquire
after
'em
.
One
word
,
or
a
Sign
to
the
Cadi
is
sufficient
,
who
always
keeps
a
Score
of
Knights
of
the
Post
ready
to
serve
him
or
any
of
his
Friends
on
such
Occasions
.
After
the
two
contending
Parties
have
pleaded
their
own
Cause
as
well
as
they
can
,
for
there
are
no
Barristers
in
Turkey
,
one
of
'em
clutches
his
right
Fist
,
and
stretches
out
one
,
two
,
or
three
of
his
Fingers
,
signifying
,
that
he
intends
to
present
the
Cadi
with
a
like
number
of
Purses
:
Then
his
Adversary
makes
the
same
Sign
,
and
offers
more
or
less
,
as
he
thinks
fit
.
At
Night
the
Cadi
sends
for
the
highest
Bidder
,
and
having
receiv'd
his
Present
,
requites
his
Compliment
very
civilly
the
next
Day
,
with
a
favourable
Sentence
;
after
which
he
that
is
cast
must
either
pay
the
Debt
immediately
,
or
go
to
Prison
.
And
(
which
is
still
more
unjust
)
if
you
are
not
able
to
maintain
him
,
and
pay
the
Fees
of
those
who
arrested
him
,
you
must
resign
the
third
Part
of
your
Debt
;
in
Consideration
of
which
the
poor
Wretch
is
kept
rotting
in
the
Gaol
,
till
an
exact
Enquiry
be
made
into
his
Estate
.
And
if
it
be
found
that
the
Debt
exceeds
the
Value
of
his
Goods
and
Possessions
,
the
Payment
is
chang'd
to
a
Corporal
Punishment
,
and
he
receives
as
many
Bastinadoes
on
the
Soals
of
his
Feet
as
he
owes
Piast●rs
,
unless
the
Summ
exceed
500
;
for
they
stop
there
,
because
the
strongest
Man
cou'd
not
endure
a
greater
number
of
Blows
without
manifest
Danger
of
his
Life
.
The
Judgment
of
Criminal
Affairs
belongs
to
the
Bassa
,
who
proceeds
after
the
same
manner
:
for
Money
clears
the
most
barbarous
Malefactor
,
and
without
that
,
Justice
degenerates
to
Cruelty
.
The
Stake
and
the
Gibbet
seem
to
be
only
made
for
poor
Villains
;
nor
can
there
be
a
greater
Sign
of
Poverty
,
than
when
a
Man
is
prosecuted
for
Murder
or
Robbery
:
for
since
the
Bassa
and
Vaivode
are
always
sure
of
40000
Aspers
,
the
usual
Price
of
Blood
,
which
they
exact
of
those
before
whose
Doors
the
Murder
was
committed
;
they
seldom
or
never
take
care
to
execute
Justice
on
the
Murderer
.
I
have
seen
a
Janisary
,
who
had
kill'd
above
30
Men
,
walk
thro'
the
Streets
unmolested
,
and
with
as
much
Confidence
as
the
most
innocent
Person
in
Town
.
Nor
are
these
corrupt
Tribunals
less
favourable
to
the
Robbers
that
infest
the
Country
,
and
commit
such
frequent
Disorders
,
that
no
wise
Man
will
venture
to
travel
one
day's
Journey
without
being
compleatly
arm'd
,
and
extremely
well
accompany'd
.
'T
is
true
,
the
Grand
Signior
from
time
to
time
sends
superiour
Bassa's
,
attended
with
some
Companies
of
Soldiers
,
to
search
after
unpunish'd
Malefactors
.
'T
is
not
above
two
Months
since
one
of
'em
came
to
this
City
,
and
put
to
Death
about
20
Criminals
:
but
after
all
,
these
Great
Inquisitors
are
only
terrible
to
those
who
are
unable
to
buy
their
Favour
,
and
even
he
whom
I
mention'd
had
above
fifty
Customers
of
this
Sort.
Among
the
rest
I
shall
only
take
notice
of
one
Instance
of
his
mercenary
Clemency
;
and
I
hope
I
shall
easily
obtain
your
Pardon
for
a
Digression
which
will
not
only
divert
you
,
but
give
you
a
clearer
Idea
of
the
Genius
of
the
Turkish
Officers
of
Justice
.
A
Man
that
us'd
to
work
in
a
Dutch
Merchant's
Garden
,
was
seiz'd
for
a
Murder
,
which
he
had
committed
7
or
8
Years
before
,
and
finding
himself
to
be
in
a
very
hopeless
Condition
,
sent
to
beg
the
Merchant's
Assistance
,
who
was
too
generous
to
suffer
one
that
had
serv'd
him
to
be
hang'd
for
wan●
of
2
or
300
Piasters
.
The
poor
Man
relying
upon
his
Master
's
promis'd
Kindness
,
began
immediately
to
treat
with
the
Bassa
for
his
Ransom
,
which
at
last
was
fix'd
at
100
Turkish
Pieces
of
Gold
,
commonly
call'd
Scherifi
,
worth
2
1/4
Piasters
each
.
The
Bargain
being
thus
concluded
,
the
Merchant
gave
the
hundred
Scherifi
to
the
Bassa's
Kiaia
,
who
deliver'd
but
ninety
to
the
Treasurer
,
having
kept
the
other
ten
for
himself
.
Now
you
must
know
that
there
are
in
Turkey
a
sort
of
Men
who
pretend
to
be
Mahomet's
Kinsmen
,
and
are
highly
reverenc'd
by
all
Persons
:
They
wear
green
Turbants
,
and
are
call'd
Scherifi
,
which
(
you
may
remember
I
told
you
)
is
the
Name
of
the
Pieces
of
Gold
.
When
the
Trial
came
on
,
after
the
Witnesses
were
examin'd
,
the
Bassa
perceiving
that
there
were
Ten
Pieces
wanting
of
the
promis'd
Summ
,
and
imagining
that
Defect
to
be
a
design'd
Breach
of
the
Agreement
,
seem'd
to
be
very
nice
and
inexorable
,
and
protested
that
he
cou'd
not
acquit
a
Man
who
was
positively
charg'd
with
Murder
by
so
many
Witnesses
.
But
the
Secretary
,
who
by
good
Fortune
was
acquainted
with
the
whole
Transaction
,
told
him
,
That
tho'
these
Witnesses
declar'd
him
Guilty
,
there
were
100
Scherifi
arriv'd
,
who
asserted
his
Innocencey
,
and
that
their
Testimony
was
much
more
convincing
.
I
thought
,
said
the
Bassa
,
I
saw
but
90
;
'T
is
true
,
reply'd
the
Secretary
,
but
there
were
Ten
more
,
who
by
reason
of
their
great
Age
,
could
not
come
up
to
your
Presence
,
and
therefore
staid
below
with
the
Kiaia
.
The
Bassa
,
who
was
neither
Deaf
nor
Dull
,
understood
the
Meaning
of
those
Expressions
,
and
declar'd
the
accus'd
Person
innocent
.
There
are
several
sorts
of
Punishments
inflicted
on
Malefactors
in
this
Country
;
such
as
Beheading
,
Drowning
,
Hanging
,
Strangling
,
Burning
,
Impaling
,
and
the
Strappado
.
The
two
last
are
the
most
Cruel
,
and
are
appointed
only
for
Turks
that
renounce
the
Mahometan
Faith
,
or
Renegado's
that
return
to
the
Profession
of
the
Christian
Religion
,
or
for
those
who
are
convicted
of
some
very
enormous
Crimes
.
Robbers
and
Murderers
are
hang'd
,
Women
are
drown'd
,
those
who
are
found
guilty
of
Rebellion
or
Sedition
are
beheaded
,
and
Burning
is
the
Punishment
of
Christians
for
blaspheming
against
Mahomet
or
the
Alcoran
,
or
for
lying
with
a
Turkish
Woman
.
Not
long
ago
an
English
Merchant
at
Constantinople
very
narrowly
escap'd
Suffering
for
the
last
of
these
Crimes
.
He
kept
a
fair
Turk
with
all
imaginable
Secrecy
,
and
never
saw
her
at
his
own
House
.
To
prevent
Suspicion
,
he
procur'd
a
very
pretty
Yacht
,
in
which
he
went
with
her
almost
every
day
,
to
take
the
Air
on
the
Sea
of
Marmora
,
or
in
the
Canal
of
the
Black
Sea
,
and
usually
staid
abroad
till
Night
.
But
at
last
the
whole
Intrigue
was
discover'd
by
the
Indiscretion
of
a
Servant
;
and
they
were
both
apprehended
by
an
Order
from
the
Grand
Visier
,
who
at
first
threaten'd
to
burn
the
Merchant
,
but
was
afterwards
prevail'd
with
to
accept
a
Fine
of
10000
Piasters
,
which
he
paid
upon
the
Spot
.
Several
Travellers
have
particularly
describ'd
the
Punishments
call'd
Impaling
,
and
the
Strappado
,
as
well
as
the
Manner
of
giving
the
Bastonnado
;
and
therefore
I
shall
forbear
troubling
you
with
an
Account
of
what
I
suppose
you
know
already
.
The
Government
of
the
Cities
is
manag'd
by
Five
Kinds
of
Officers
,
the
Bassa
,
Sub-Bassa
,
Vaivode
,
Cadi
,
and
Receiver
of
the
Customs
.
The
Bassa
is
properly
the
Governor
,
and
judges
criminal
Causes
;
and
the
Sub-Bassa
is
as
it
were
his
Deputy
.
The
Vaivode
takes
care
of
regulating
Affairs
in
the
City
;
he
walks
the
Round
twice
a-week
,
to
examine
the
Weights
and
Measures
,
to
observe
whether
unlicens'd
Tipling-Houses
are
kept
,
to
punish
Drunken
Persons
,
and
all
those
in
the
general
who
commit
any
Disorders
in
the
City
.
Those
who
are
found
guilty
of
these
or
any
other
Abuses
,
must
immediately
submit
to
the
Bastonnado
,
especially
Drunkards
,
who
are
always
very
roughly
handl'd
.
The
Function
of
the
Sub-Bassa
is
not
much
different
.
The
Cadi
is
the
Judge
of
all
Civil
Suits
;
and
the
Receiver
of
the
Customs
,
who
in
France
is
only
a
private
Person
without
any
Authority
,
is
in
this
Country
empower'd
to
take
Cognizance
of
all
fraudulent
Practices
relating
to
Pecuniary
Duties
,
in
all
which
Cases
he
is
both
Judge
and
Party
.
The
Jealousie
that
reigns
among
these
Officers
is
so
furious
and
extravagant
,
that
they
make
it
their
principal
Business
to
discredit
and
ruine
one
another
.
'T
is
a
Pleasure
to
hear
the
Characters
which
they
mutually
give
of
each
other
;
and
assoon
as
they
are
acquainted
with
a
Man
,
they
begin
to
entertain
him
with
a
Harangue
on
that
Subject
.
The
Vaivode
of
this
Place
,
with
whom
I
have
contracted
a
sort
of
Friendship
,
has
told
me
a
thousand
Stories
of
the
Bassa's
and
Cadi's
,
which
,
as
diverting
as
they
are
,
I
shall
rather
chuse
to
relate
,
than
to
write
to
you
:
and
therefore
you
must
even
content
your self
at
present
with
one
,
for
a
Taste
of
the
pleasant
Entertainment
you
may
expect
at
our
next
Meeting
.
One
who
had
as
little
Money
as
Honesty
,
that
is
,
none
at
all
,
was
sent
in
the
Quality
of
a
Cadi
,
to
a
certain
Town
,
where
he
hop'd
the
Wranglings
of
the
Inhabitants
wou'd
quickly
supply
all
his
Wants
.
But
,
as
ill
Luck
wou'd
have
it
,
his
Predecessors
had
quite
spoil'd
his
Market
;
and
Oppression
,
which
makes
some
wise
Men
mad
,
had
made
these
Fools
,
wise
.
They
heard
he
was
a
very
hungry
Devil
,
and
they
resolv'd
to
starve
him
out-right
;
wisely
considering
that
't
was
both
their
Duty
and
Interest
to
live
in
Peace
,
or
at
least
to
refer
all
their
Differences
to
the
Arbitration
of
honest
Friends
,
rather
than
by
tearing
out
their
own
Bowels
to
feed
their
Greedy
Devourer
.
And
it
seems
they
show'd
as
much
Firmness
in
pursuing
,
as
Wisdom
in
making
so
advantageous
a
Resolution
:
for
the
Cadi
spent
six
Weeks
or
two
Months
after
his
Arrival
,
without
any
Employment
but
Fretting
,
Cursing
,
and
biting
his
Thumbs
out
of
meer
Spite
,
because
he
could
find
nothing
else
to
exercise
his
Teeth
upon
.
One
day
as
he
was
walking
in
the
Streets
,
meditating
no
doubt
on
his
wretched
Fate
,
he
perceiv'd
a
Baker
,
who
was
drawing
a
good
Fat
Goose
out
of
his
Oven
;
and
the
savoury
Vapours
assaulting
his
Nose
,
rais'd
a
furious
Commotion
in
his
empty
Stomach
:
his
Mouth
water'd
at
the
delicious
Obj●ct
,
and
his
Guts
began
to
rumble
with
a
more
than
ordinary
Violence
.
In
a
Word
,
he
was
so
little
Master
of
himself
,
that
he
cou'd
not
forbear
begging
a
Piece
;
but
the
Baker
told
him
that
the
Goose
belong'd
to
one
of
his
Neighbours
,
who
had
sent
it
to
him
to
be
bak'd
.
Come
,
reply'd
the
Cadi
,
take
my
Advice
:
We
'll
eat
the
Goose
,
and
when
the
Man
comes
to
fetch
it
,
tell
him
that
as
thou
wert
bringing
it
out
to
see
whether
't
was
ready
,
a
Flock
of
Geese
happen'd
to
fly
by
the
Door
,
and
that
his
Goose
perceiving
its
old
Companions
,
wou'd
not
be
persuaded
to
stay
behind
'em
.
If
he
will
not
be
satisfy'd
with
so
fair
an
Answer
,
let
him
e'en
take
his
Course
;
for
he
must
bring
thee
before
me
,
and
I
'll
find
a
Way
to
save
thee
harmless
.
There
was
no
need
of
more
Arguments
,
for
the
Baker's
Stomach
was
on
the
Cadi's
Side
,
and
his
Conscience
made
no
long
Resistance
:
and
therefore
assoon
as
he
had
signify'd
his
Consent
,
the
Cadi
began
to
bestir
his
Chaps
so
vigorously
,
that
by
the
Assistance
of
his
Friend
the
Business
was
dispatch●d
in
an
Instant
.
Two
Hours
after
the
Man
came
for
his
Goose
,
and
the
Baker
repeated
his
Lesson
very
gravely
:
but
the
Jest
was
somewhat
too
gross
,
and
the
Man
was
so
offended
at
the
Baker●s
Insolency
,
that
he
took
him
immediately
by
the
Neck
,
and
told
him
that
he
must
either
restore
his
Goose
,
or
go
before
the
Cadi
;
for
there
are
no
Sergeants
or
Bailiffs
in
this
Country
.
These
Threatnings
made
no
great
Impression
upon
the
Baker
,
since
he
knew
that
he
was
to
be
judg'd
by
his
Fellow-Rogue
;
so
that
he
was
as
free
from
Fear
,
as
the
other
was
full
of
Anger
and
Revenge
and
walk'd
very
peaceably
along
with
his
Accuser
.
But
they
had
not
gone
far
when
they
were
stopp'd
by
the
Lamentations
of
a
poor
Mule-Driver
,
whose
Mule
was
fall'n
under
her
Load
,
and
lay
sprawling
on
the
Ground
.
The
Baker
was
mov'd
with
Compassion
at
the
poor
Man's
Misfortune
,
who
came
to
beg
his
Assistance
,
and
took
hold
of
the
Mule's
Tail
,
while
the
Man
himself
endeavour'd
t●
raise
her
Head
:
but
the
Load
was
so
heavy
,
tha●
the
Baker
finding
more
Resistance
than
he
expected
,
and
pulling
with
all
the
Force
of
a
Brawny
Arm
,
at
last
pluck'd
the
Tail
off
at
the
Root
.
The
Owner
of
the
Mule
was
so
enrag'd
at
this
unlucky
Accident
,
which
made
him
incapable
of
following
his
usual
Occupation
,
that
not
regarding
the
Baker's
charitable
Intention
,
he
seiz'd
him
by
the
Collar
,
and
help'd
the
other
Man
to
hale
him
along
,
for
he
was
so
far
from
going
willingly
as
before
,
that
considering
the
Cadi
was
not
at
all
concern'd
in
this
Affair
,
and
not
daring
to
rely
too
much
on
his
Friendship
,
lest
he
should
be
oblig'd
to
pay
the
Price
of
the
Mule
,
he
made
a
shift
to
get
loose
;
and
thinking
to
make
his
Lscape
,
ran
into
a
House
not
far
from
the
place
where
he
met
the
Mule-Driver
.
But
,
as
Mischances
never
come
single
,
it
happen'd
that
there
was
a
Woman
six
Months
gone
with
Child
,
standing
in
the
Court
of
the
House
where
he
thought
to
secure
himself
,
who
was
so
terrify'd
at
the
sight
of
a
Man
running
,
with
two
others
pursuing
him
furiously
at
his
Heels
,
that
she
miscarry'd
immediately
.
Thus
the
poor
Baker
had
the
Mortification
to
see
the
Number
of
his
Enemies
encreas'd
;
for
the
Woman's
Husband
join'd
with
the
other
Two
,
and
all
together
carry'd
him
before
the
Cadi
,
whom
they
acquainted
with
the
Reason
of
their
Coming
,
expressing
their
several
Complaints
in
a
very
mournful
Tone
,
to
move
their
Judge
to
Compassion
.
I
'm
a
very
poor
Man
,
said
he
who
had
receiv'd
the
first
Injury
,
and
all
the
Town
knows
that
I
had
but
one
Goose
,
which
I
intended
to
eat
with
my
Wife
and
Children
,
in
Peace
and
Joy
,
as
I
hope
for
the
Blessing
of
the
Prophet
.
But
alas
!
this
wicked
Man
has
stoll'n
her
from
me
,
and
wou'd
put
me
off
with
a
ridiculous
Story
:
he
has
the
Impudence
to
tell
me
that
●y
Goose
after
she
was
bak'd
,
spy'd
a
Flock
of
other
Geese
,
and
flew
away
with
'em
.
I
had
but
one
Mule
,
cry'd
the
Second
,
which
maintain'd
me
and
all
my
Family
;
I
had
but
one
,
and
now
,
alas
!
I
may
say
I
have
none
:
for
the
poor
Creature
had
the
Misfortune
to
fall
under
her
Burden
,
and
this
Man
happen'd
to
pass
by
as
I
was
endeavouring
in
vain
to
relieve
her
.
I
intreated
him
to
help
me
,
but
instead
of
raising
her
up
,
he
pluck'd
off
her
Tail
.
Ah!
Wou'd
I
had
no
more
Reason
to
complain
than
either
of
the
rest
,
said
the
Third
.
I
have
but
one
Wife
,
and
that
a
very
bad
one
.
We
have
been
marry'd
these
three
Years
,
and
I
have
toil●d
Night
and
Day
to
get
her
with
Child
:
At
last
,
by
the
Blessing
of
the
Prophet
I
did
the
Feat
,
and
in
a
little
time
expected
to
see
the
Fruit
of
my
Labours
.
But
that
Traitour
has
this
Day
destroy'd
what
I
cou'd
hardly
get
in
three
Years
:
he
put
my
Wife
into
such
a
Fright
,
that
she
miscarry'd
three
Months
before
the
Time
.
Judge
,
Sir
,
with
what
Impatience
and
Fear
the
Baker
expected
his
Doom
,
and
how
the
Cadi
was
puzzl'd
to
bring
him
off
in
Spite
of
so
many
clamorous
Accusers
.
Yet
the
Difficulty
of
the
Case
serv'd
only
to
show
the
Dexterity
of
the
Judge
,
as
you
will
easily
perceive
by
his
Answers
to
the
Three
Plaintiffs
.
I
cannot
,
said
he
to
the
First
,
oblige
a
Man
to
restore
a
Goose
,
which
,
he
affirms
,
flew
out
of
his
hands
.
I
confess
the
Story
is
very
surprizing
and
improbable
,
but
we
must
always
give
credit
to
an
honest
Man's
Word
:
And
therefore
since
thou
canst
produce
no
Witnesses
to
disprove
it
,
thou
must
e'en
resolve
to
bear
thy
Mifortune
patiently
.
As
for
thee
,
said
he
to
the
Second
,
't
is
another
Case
:
He
has
pluck'd
off
thy
Mule's
Tail
,
and
made
her
unfit
for
Service
.
And
therefore
't
is
just
that
be
shou'd
be
oblig'd
to
keep
her
at
his
own
Charge
till
her
Rump
be
heal'd
.
But
thou
,
poor
Man
,
said
he
,
turning
to
the
Third
▪
art
more
to
be
pity'd
than
either
of
the
rest
.
Thou
say'st
(
and
I
believe
thee
)
that
it
cost
thee
three
Years
Labour
to
get
a
Child
:
and
after
all
thy
Toil
,
this
Man
by
an
unlucky
Accident
has
made
thy
Wife
cast
her
Bantling
three
Months
before
the
Time
.
I
condemn
the
Rogue
to
take
her
home
with
him
,
to
●ill
her
Belly
again
,
and
to
keep
her
till
she
be
in
the
same
Condition
,
and
the
Child
as
old
as
when
he
made
her
miscarry
.
I
will
not
ask
your
Opinion
of
this
Story
,
till
you
have
heard
both
Parties
:
for
the
Cadi
thinks
himself
as
honest
a
Man
,
and
as
worthy
of
your
Audience
as
the
Vaivode
;
and
therefore
you
must
e'en
be
satisfy'd
to
hear
his
Tale
next
.
A
very
Rich
Man
dy'd
,
and
left
his
Son
Heir
to
his
whole
Estate
,
except
1000
Piasters
,
which
he
bequeath'd
to
the
Tyrant
of
the
Country
.
Now
you
must
know
that
the
Turks
are
very
religious
Observers
of
the
Last-Wills
of
their
Relations
:
and
this
Young
Man
it
seems
was
very
nice
in
that
Point
.
His
Ignorance
of
his
Father's
Meaning
made
him
extremely
uneasie
;
for
he
concluded
that
if
he
shou'd
detain
another
Man's
Right
,
against
his
Father's
positive
Command
,
't
wou'd
certainly
bring
the
Curse
of
the
Prophet
upon
him
.
After
he
had
spent
some
time
in
considering
where
to
bestow
the
Legacy
,
he
resolv'd
to
carry
it
to
the
Bassa
,
whom
he
address'd
thus
:
Sir
,
My
Father
order'd
me
by
his
Last-Will
,
to
give
1000
Piasters
to
the
Tyrant
of
the
Country
,
without
mentioning
the
Name
of
any
particular
Person
.
I
was
extremely
troubl'd
at
the
Obscurity
of
these
Words
,
and
not
being
able
to
unriddle
the
Mystery
,
I
thought
my self
oblig'd
to
bring
the
Money
to
you
not
as
to
a
Tyrant
,
but
as
to
the
most
powerful
Person
in
the
Country
.
The
Bassa
,
who
by
chance
was
an
honest
Man
,
reply'd
very
calmly
,
My
Son
,
I
neither
am
,
nor
will
be
a
Tyrant
,
carry
the
Money
to
the
Cadi
,
for
he
has
more
Right
to
it
than
I.
The
Young
Man
perceiving
that
't
wou'd
be
in
vain
to
urge
him
to
accept
it
,
went
according
to
his
Advice
,
and
made
the
same
Complement
to
the
Cadi
,
whom
he
found
to
be
as
generous
as
the
Bassa
;
for
he
told
him
he
cou'd
not
take
it
without
injuring
the
Person
for
whom
it
was
design'd
,
and
desir'd
him
to
carry
it
to
the
Receiver
of
the
Customs
.
But
that
Officer
was
as
jealous
of
his
Honour
as
either
of
the
rest
,
and
sent
the
young
Heir
to
the
Vaivode
,
who
hearing
that
he
had
been
with
the
other
three
,
and
what
Answers
he
had
receiv'd
from
'em
,
told
him
that
as
his
Conscience
oblig'd
him
to
ease
a
Neighbour
of
a
Burthen
that
seem'd
to
be
so
troublesome
to
him
,
so
it
wou'd
not
permit
him
to
receive
it
absolutely
gratis
.
Let
us
,
added
he
,
make
a
feign'd
Bargain
;
you
shall
buy
all
the
Snow
in
my
Court
for
1000
Piasters
,
and
then
I
can
take
the
Money
with
a
safe
Conscience
.
The
Young
Man
,
who
had
been
bandy'd
about
so
often
,
and
was
glad
to
be
rid
of
the
Money
on
any
Terms
,
consented
immediately
to
the
Proposal
.
As
soon
as
the
Bargain
was
concluded
,
and
the
Deed
of
Conveyance
written
,
the
Vaivode's
Secretary
demanded
his
Fees
;
for
in
this
Country
the
Purchaser
must
always
pay
for
the
Contract
.
The
Young
Man
was
both
vex'd
and
surpriz'd
at
the
Impudence
of
these
Blood-suckers
,
and
upbraided
'em
with
their
Injustice
and
Barbarity
;
adding
,
That
he
did
not
expect
to
be
troubl'd
with
their
litigious
Tricks
after
he
had
freely
presented
'em
with
so
considerable
a
Summ
:
But
neither
his
Anger
nor
Arguments
cou'd
prevail
,
for
he
was
forc'd
at
last
to
give
the
Secretary
Ten
Piasters
more
;
after
which
he
went
home
with
a
Resolution
to
return
no
more
to
a
place
where
he
had
been
so
ill
treated
.
But
three
Days
after
the
Vaivode
sent
to
acquaint
him
that
't
was
time
for
him
to
remove
his
Commodity
.
The
Young
Man
imagining
that
they
intended
only
to
put
a
Jest
upon
him
for
his
foolish
Bargain
,
bid
the
Messenger
tell
his
Master
,
that
he
might
keep
both
the
Goods
and
the
Money
.
But
he
was
quickly
convinc'd
,
that
he
had
bestow'd
the
Legacy
on
the
Man
who
had
the
best
right
to
it
:
For
the
Vaivode
forc'd
him
to
remove
all
the
Snow
that
was
in
his
Court.
I
know
not
whether
you
can
read
these
Stories
without
Sleeping
:
But
I
durst
almost
lay
a
Wager
,
that
if
I
shou'd
add
a
Third
,
you
wou'd
throw
away
my
Letter
without
staying
to
hear
that
I
am
,
SIR
,
Your
&c.
Smyrna
,
1691.
LETTER
XX.
SIR
,
IN
pursuance
of
the
Method
I
propos'd
in
my
last
,
I
shall
in
this
Letter
give
you
a
brief
Account
of
the
Turkish
Religion
,
which
,
in
the
Opinion
of
those
who
profess
it
,
is
a
New
Law
,
Instituted
by
GOD
,
in
the
room
of
the
Christian
Religion
.
GOD
,
they
say
,
has
sent
Four
Prophets
to
reveal
his
Will
to
Mankind
,
and
instruct
us
in
the
way
to
Salvation
.
The
first
was
Enoch
,
who
Preach'd
and
Propheci'd
,
but
did
not
commit
his
Doctrine
to
Writing
.
For
,
in
those
Days
,
GOD
communicated
Himself
to
Mankind
in
so
sensible
a
manner
,
that
there
was
no
need
of
a
Written-Law
.
After
this
Prophet
had
executed
his
Commission
,
he
was
taken
up
into
Heaven
,
both
Soul
and
Body
.
In
the
mean
time
,
GOD
seeing
that
Men
perverted
their
Ways
,
and
made
the
want
of
a
Written-Law
,
a
Cloak
and
Pretext
for
their
Transgressions
,
sent
Moses
,
who
brought
the
Children
of
Israel
out
of
Egypt
,
and
gave
'em
the
Law
which
he
had
receiv'd
from
GOD.
This
was
the
second
Prophet
,
whose
Dispensation
was
to
continue
till
the
coming
of
JESUS
CHRIST
,
whom
they
call
the
Breath
of
God
,
acknowledging
,
that
he
was
Conceiv'd
by
Divine
Operation
,
in
the
Womb
of
his
Mother
,
who
remain'd
a
Virgin
,
even
after
his
Birth
.
He
alter'd
and
reform'd
the
Law
,
according
to
the
Power
with
which
God
had
entrusted
him
,
and
for
that
reason
incurr'd
the
hatred
of
the
Jews
,
who
sought
to
put
him
to
Death
,
and
hir'd
the
Traytor
Judas
to
betray
him
.
But
when
he
came
to
the
Oliv●-Garden
,
they
were
seiz'd
with
so
strange
an
Illusion
,
that
they
Crucifi'd
Judas
instead
of
his
Master
,
who
was
,
in
the
mean
time
,
translated
to
Heaven
,
where
he
remains
with
the
two
former
Prophets
.
They
say
,
this
Opinion
serves
much
better
to
display
the
Glory
of
CHRIST
,
than
the
Christian
Doctrine
;
and
brand
us
with
Folly
and
Impiety
for
believing
that
He
whom
we
adore
as
God
,
was
shamefully
Crucify'd
.
The
very
sight
of
a
Crucifix
fills
'em
with
Anger
and
Rage
,
pretending
that
't
is
a
horrid
Injury
to
CHRIST
,
to
represent
him
in
a
State
of
Ignominy
and
Suffering
.
They
believe
also
that
He
will
come
to
judge
the
World
at
the
last
Day
;
but
that
He
will
first
Reign
upon
the
Earth
,
and
Marry
,
and
beget
Children
.
They
affirm
,
that
He
was
a
Holy
Man
,
and
a
chosen
Vessel
;
but
they
will
not
be
perswaded
to
acknowledge
a
Trinity
of
Persons
in
the
Godhead
,
saying
,
That
such
an
Opinion
wou'd
absolutely
destroy
the
Unity
of
that
Sovereign
Being
,
without
which
He
cou'd
not
be
GOD.
CHRIST
was
succeeded
by
Mahomet
,
after
whom
there
shall
come
no
other
Prophet
.
'T
wou'd
be
an
endless
Task
to
reckon
up
all
the
Glorious
Titles
they
bestow
upon
him
.
They
differ
not
much
from
us
in
their
Opinions
concerning
the
Divine
Attributes
.
Only
they
have
such
a
peculiar
Fondness
for
Predestination
,
that
they
extend
it
even
to
the
most
Indifferent
Actions
,
yet
with
some
Limitations
and
Circumstances
which
't
wou'd
be
very
difficult
to
explain
,
and
which
they
themselves
do
not
well
understand
.
Thus
they
are
firmly
perswaded
,
that
under
the
Reign
of
such
an
Emperor
,
the
State
will
infallibly
and
perpetually
have
either
a
disast'rous
or
happy
Fate
:
And
't
is
this
Persuasion
that
makes
'em
so
inclinable
to
dethrone
their
Sultans
.
They
believe
,
that
there
is
an
infinite
number
of
Angels
,
some
Good
and
others
Bad.
The
first
are
call'd
White
,
and
the
others
Black
Angels
or
Devils
.
They
imagine
that
every
Man
has
two
Angels
that
attend
him
continually
,
and
that
one
of
'em
writes
down
all
his
Good
,
and
the
other
all
his
Bad
Actions
.
They
address
their
Prayers
to
the
Black
Angels
as
well
as
to
the
White
,
that
they
may
secure
the
Friendship
both
of
the
Inhabitants
of
Paradice
and
Hell
,
tho'
,
in
their
Opinion
,
the
Souls
of
the
Damn'd
enter
not
into
the
last
of
these
Places
till
the
Day
of
Judgment
.
For
't
is
an
Article
of
the
Turkish
Faith
,
that
the
Spirits
of
the
Wicked
remain
in
their
Graves
,
where
they
are
tormented
by
the
Black
Angels
till
the
last
Day
,
when
they
shall
be
sent
to
Hell
,
together
with
their
Bodies
,
and
suffer
very
cruel
Punishments
,
for
the
space
of
One
or
Two
Thousand
Years
,
according
to
the
Crimes
they
committed
in
this
Life
;
after
which
they
shall
be
releas'd
,
and
admitted
into
Paradice
,
where
they
shall
enjoy
the
same
Happiness
that
is
appointed
for
the
Souls
of
Good
Men.
They
think
't
is
inconsistent
with
the
Divine
Goodness
,
and
blame
us
for
believing
that
GOD
will
punish
a
Man
Eternally
for
the
Offences
of
so
short
a
Life
:
Yet
,
since
they
are
extremely
afraid
of
Hell
,
they
pray
very
devoutly
to
the
Black
Angels
that
they
wou'd
be
pleas'd
not
to
write
down
all
their
Ill
Actions
.
Since
you
will
doubtless
look
upon
their
Opinion
,
of
the
Soul
's
resting
in
the
Grave
after
Death
,
to
be
very
Absurd
and
Ridiculous
,
I
shall
endeavour
to
give
you
a
clearer
Idea
of
their
Thoughts
on
that
Subject
.
They
differ
from
us
in
the
account
they
give
of
the
manner
how
the
Soul
Informs
and
Animates
the
Body
.
For
whereas
we
believe
,
that
these
two
Substances
are
Hypostatically
united
,
and
that
Death
consists
in
their
Separation
;
they
imagine
that
the
Soul
and
Body
have
no
dependance
on
one
another
,
and
that
the
absence
of
the
Spirit
(
which
,
for
Example
,
may
take
a
Journey
to
Paradice
)
is
not
necessarily
attended
with
the
Destruction
of
the
Corporeal
Machine
;
tho'
they
acknowledge
that
the
Body
is
always
depriv'd
of
Reason
,
during
its
Separation
from
the
Soul
.
Thus
they
believe
,
that
the
only
reason
why
a
Fool
or
Ideot
acts
and
speaks
absurdly
,
is
because
his
Soul
(
and
consequently
his
Reason
)
has
forsaken
him
.
As
for
Lunatic
and
Hypochondriacal
Persons
,
who
have
some
lucid
Intervals
,
and
are
only
depriv'd
of
their
Reason
by
Fits
,
they
endeavour
to
solve
the
Difficulty
,
by
maintaining
,
that
the
Soul
leaves
her
Mansion
at
certain
times
,
and
returns
again
after
a
short
Absence
:
And
this
,
they
say
,
is
an
effect
of
Providence
,
either
for
the
Punishment
of
the
Distemper'd
Person
,
or
for
some
other
hidden
Design
.
When
a
Christian
tells
'em
,
that
these
Fits
of
Madness
proceed
from
the
Disorder
and
Indisposition
of
the
Organs
,
which
hinders
the
Soul
from
performing
her
Functions
,
they
upbraid
him
with
the
absurdity
of
his
Opinion
;
for
,
say
they
,
the
Soul
of
Man
is
a
Spirit
,
and
therefore
cannot
be
stopt
or
obstructed
in
the
exercise
of
her
Faculties
by
Matter
,
which
is
a
Substance
of
another
,
and
absolutely
different
Nature
.
From
this
Principle
they
infer
,
that
neither
the
Presence
nor
Absence
of
the
Soul
can
produce
any
alteration
in
the
Machinal
course
of
the
Body
,
which
is
only
mov'd
by
Springs
:
And
that
when
one
of
the
principal
Springs
fails
,
or
is
spoil'd
,
the
Soul
cannot
prevent
the
Ruine
of
the
whole
Engine
.
This
,
they
pretend
,
is
an
obvious
Truth
,
and
confirm'd
by
daily
Experience
:
And
therefore
we
must
not
be
surpriz'd
,
that
a
dead
Body
neither
Walks
,
Breathes
,
nor
performs
any
Operation
,
tho'
the
Soul
be
still
lodg'd
in
it
:
For
since
she
is
not
the
Author
of
the
Machine
which
she
Inhabits
,
't
is
beyond
her
Power
either
to
keep
it
entire
,
or
to
repair
it
after
it
falls
to
decay
.
GOD
alone
,
who
made
and
contriv'd
it
,
can
restore
it
,
and
renew
its
motion
,
as
he
will
do
at
the
last
Day
.
To
confirm
this
Hypothesis
,
they
cite
,
with
a
great
deal
of
Confidence
,
what
Pliny
relates
of
a
Man
whose
Soul
and
Body
were
wont
to
be
separated
every
day
,
so
that
the
Body
remain'd
without
any
appearance
of
Life
or
Motion
,
till
the
return
of
the
Soul
,
which
afterwards
us'd
to
give
an
Account
of
all
the
wonderful
things
she
had
seen
in
the
remotest
Countries
.
This
,
you
know
,
is
one
of
that
Author
's
fabulous
Stories
,
and
yet
the
Turks
pretend
to
draw
from
thence
an
evident
and
irrefutable
Proof
of
their
Opinion
.
Besides
,
they
give
the
Soul
a
Figure
exactly
like
that
of
the
Body
,
and
upon
this
Principle
maintain
,
that
the
Souls
of
the
Damned
are
beaten
in
the
Grave
,
and
suffer
Torments
,
which
a
pure
Spirit
seems
incapable
of
feeling
.
They
believe
also
,
that
the
Beasts
shall
not
be
depriv'd
of
the
benefit
of
the
Resurrection
,
and
that
at
the
Day
of
Judgment
they
will
give
an
Account
before
CHRIST
,
of
all
the
Kindnesses
and
Injuries
they
have
receiv'd
from
Men.
And
this
Conceit
makes
'em
so
charitable
to
Irrational
Creatures
,
that
some
of
'em
buy
little
Birds
and
live
Fishes
,
that
they
may
afterwards
set
'em
at
liberty
.
They
fansie
themselves
polluted
by
several
Things
,
such
as
Sleeping
,
the
touching
of
a
Woman
,
and
of
all
sorts
of
Excrements
;
and
therefore
after
any
such
Accident
,
they
perform
their
Ablution
or
Abdest
,
washing
their
Face
,
Hands
,
Ears
,
and
Feet
,
and
looking
towards
Mecca
.
In
the
Day
they
content
themselves
with
washing
their
Mouth
,
which
they
repeat
as
often
as
they
have
occasion
to
obey
the
necessities
of
Nature
:
But
after
Copulation
their
Ablutions
are
much
more
Ceremonious
,
for
they
wash
their
whole
Body
in
a
Bath
,
as
they
do
also
when
a
drop
of
Wine
falls
upon
their
Garments
.
I
have
seen
some
of
'em
so
extreamly
Superstitious
,
that
they
wou'd
never
afterwards
wear
a
Vest
that
was
pulluted
with
Wine
;
tho'
there
are
others
of
less
scrupulous
Tempers
who
never
refuse
to
taste
that
spirituous
Liquor
,
and
even
some
that
continue
Tipling
till
they
have
quite
lost
their
Senses
.
They
Pray
five
times
a
Day
,
in
the
Morning
at
the
break
of
Day
,
at
Noon
,
at
Three
a
Clock
in
the
Afternoon
,
at
Six
in
the
Evening
,
and
an
hour
after
the
close
of
the
Evening
.
But
they
go
only
twice
to
the
Mosquee
,
to
the
Sabah
in
the
Morning
,
and
to
the
Quindy
at
Three
in
the
Afternoon
:
And
even
many
of
'em
perform
their
public
Devotions
only
on
Friday
,
which
is
their
Festival-Day
,
as
Sunday
is
ours
.
On
that
day
an
Iman
,
or
Priest
of
the
Law
,
says
a
Prayer
,
and
delivers
a
kind
of
Sermon
or
Exhortation
to
the
Hearers
:
But
the
Men
are
too
jealous
to
suffer
any
of
the
Fair
Sex
to
come
to
the
Public
Places
of
Worship
.
The
Turkish
Lent
is
shorter
,
but
much
more
severe
than
that
which
the
Catholicks
observe
;
for
they
neither
Eat
,
Drink
,
nor
Smoak
Tobacco
while
the
Day
lasts
;
so
that
this
may
be
justly
reckon'd
a
very
mortifying
Season
,
especially
when
it
happens
to
fall
out
it
Summer
,
considering
the
violent
Heat
that
reigns
throughout
all
Asia
.
This
Fast
is
call'd
Ramadan
,
and
lasts
Thirty
Days
,
during
which
time
the
Turks
are
oblig'd
by
the
Alchoran
to
begin
their
Fast
every
Morning
assoon
as
they
can
discern
a
Black
Thread
from
a
White
,
and
to
continue
their
Abstinence
till
the
same
Hour
at
Night
,
which
is
proclaim'd
by
the
Muezins
and
Marabouts
from
the
top
of
the
Minare●s
.
Then
they
let
loose
the
Reins
to
their
wild
Desires
,
spending
the
whole
Night
in
Gluttony
and
Drunkenness
,
and
roaming
about
the
Streets
:
For
during
this
Month
they
turn
the
Day
into
Night
,
and
the
Night
into
Day
,
and
greedily
hunt
after
all
sorts
of
Pleasures
,
to
allay
the
severity
of
the
Fast
,
which
,
notwithstanding
all
the
Pains
they
take
to
sweeten
it
,
is
very
disagreeable
to
Flesh
and
Blood
.
It
ends
with
the
Moon
,
and
every
one
is
so
impatient
to
see
the
New-Moon
that
releases
'em
from
this
loath'd
Constraint
,
that
they
run
up
to
the
Tops
of
Houses
and
Mountains
to
see
their
Deliverer
rise
,
and
assoon
as
they
perceive
her
gilding
the
Horizon
,
they
salute
her
with
several
Bows
,
and
the
Castles
proclaim
the
glad
Tidings
with
repeated
Discharges
of
their
Artillery
.
The
Three
succeeding
Days
are
spent
in
Mirth
and
Jollity
;
every
Man
puts
on
his
best
Cloaths
,
and
entertains
his
Friends
.
This
is
properly
the
Turkish
Easter
,
and
is
call'd
the
Great
Bairam
,
to
distinguish
it
from
several
Feasts
or
Bairams
of
less
consequence
,
such
as
that
of
the
Birth
of
Mahomet
,
&c.
'T
wou'd
be
needless
to
tell
you
,
that
they
neither
eat
Hog's-Flesh
,
nor
drink
Wine
,
and
that
they
cannot
endure
Images
;
for
these
are
things
so
commonly
known
,
and
so
often
repeated
by
all
the
Crowd
of
Travellers
,
that
I
cannot
suppose
you
to
be
ignoront
of
'em
.
But
,
perhaps
,
you
have
not
so
distinct
an
Idea
of
the
Charity
that
reigns
among
'em
.
Since
they
believe
Alms
to
be
the
surest
Atonement
for
Sins
,
they
neglect
no
occasion
of
buying
their
future
Peace
.
'T
is
this
Principle
that
excites
'em
to
leave
considerable
Legacies
at
their
Death
,
which
,
according
to
the
Will
of
the
Deceas'd
,
are
employ'd
in
repairing
public
Fountains
,
building
Bridges
,
or
paying
the
Portions
of
Indigent
Maidens
.
I
have
already
told
you
,
that
their
Charity
extends
even
to
Beasts
;
and
I
shall
take
this
occasion
to
add
,
that
they
are
particularly
kind
to
Dogs
,
tho'
naturally
they
do
not
love
'em
,
and
keep
none
in
their
Houses
.
Yet
the
Cities
are
full
of
'em
,
where
they
wander
about
the
Streets
,
and
perpetuate
their
Kind
like
Wild
Beasts
.
They
are
so
mangy
,
lean
,
and
miserable
,
that
one
wou'd
think
they
cou'd
not
live
a
day
;
and
I
have
seen
some
of
'em
at
Constantinople
so
near
Starving
,
that
they
wou'd
jump
into
the
Sea
for
some
Bits
of
Carrion
which
they
perceiv'd
at
the
bottom
.
However
,
since
they
cou'd
not
possibly
live
on
what
they
find
in
the
Streets
,
the
richer
sort
of
Turks
buy
Provisions
for
'em
,
and
feed
'em
every
Morning
at
their
Doors
with
Eleemosinary
Bread
and
Flesh
.
They
reckon
it
a
heinous
Crime
to
kill
a
Dog
,
Cat
,
Horse
,
or
any
other
Creature
that
is
not
appointed
for
the
Food
and
Nourishment
of
Mankind
:
For
they
pretend
that
since
Man
is
not
the
Author
of
their
Life
,
he
ought
not
to
deprive
'em
of
it
.
I
shall
take
this
occasion
to
relate
the
Story
of
an
Accident
that
happen'd
in
this
place
,
not
above
eight
days
ago
.
There
was
a
Dog
that
us'd
always
to
howl
,
when
he
heard
the
Muezin
calling
the
People
to
Prayers
from
the
Minaret
.
The
Turks
,
who
are
Superstitious
,
even
beyond
Imagination
,
cou'd
not
behold
their
most
Holy
Rites
profan'd
by
an
Impudent
Cur
,
without
an
extream
Indignation
:
Yet
they
durst
not
kill
him
for
fear
of
offending
GOD.
However
,
they
found
out
a
way
to
chastise
the
daring
Criminal
,
without
provoking
the
Wrath
of
Heaven
:
For
notwithstanding
all
their
Veneration
for
his
Person
,
they
were
loath
to
allow
him
greater
Privileges
than
they
claim
for
themselves
.
After
mature
deliberation
on
such
a
weighty
and
important
Case
,
they
ventur'd
at
last
to
seize
him
,
and
carry
him
before
the
Cadi
,
where
they
Indicted
him
as
a
Dgiahour
,
or
Christian
,
who
derided
the
Law
of
the
Prophet
.
The
Evidence
was
so
plain
,
that
after
a
full
Hearing
poor
Towzer
was
condemn'd
to
be
Cudgel'd
to
Death
,
and
the
Sentence
was
immediately
executed
.
Perhaps
the
oddness
of
this
Relation
may
make
you
suspect
my
Veracity
so
far
as
to
imagine
,
that
I
Invented
it
on
purpose
to
divert
you
:
But
,
in
short
,
you
must
either
believe
it
,
or
in
plain
Terms
give
me
the
Lye
.
'T
is
true
,
I
dare
not
warrant
the
truth
of
the
Story
I
'm
going
to
tell
you
,
but
since
it
relates
to
the
same
Subject
,
you
must
e'en
be
content
to
read
it
.
Besides
the
ordinary
Dogs
that
wander
about
the
Streets
,
there
are
others
call'd
Jaccals
,
or
Chacaly
,
that
run
in
the
Fields
,
where
they
make
a
hideous
noise
every
Night
.
They
do
not
Bark
like
other
Dogs
,
but
have
a
kind
of
sharp
or
yelling
Cry
,
peculiar
to
themselves
.
Now
(
if
you
'll
believe
the
Turks
)
the
Chacaly
or
Wild-Dogs
,
in
ancient
Times
,
Inhabited
the
Cities
,
and
the
other
Dogs
liv'd
in
the
Fields
.
They
were
perpetual
and
irreconcilable
Enemies
to
each
other
,
and
fought
many
bloody
Battles
,
in
one
of
which
the
Chacaly
were
Victorious
,
and
the
Forces
of
the
Dogs
were
so
shatter'd
that
they
were
oblig'd
to
beg
a
Peace
,
which
was
granted
by
their
Generous
Enemies
on
these
favourable
Terms
;
That
the
Dogs
might
stay
in
the
City
till
their
Wounds
were
heal'd
,
during
which
time
the
Chacaly
shou'd
retire
to
the
Country
;
but
that
afterwards
both
Parties
shou'd
return
to
their
former
Habitations
.
These
Conditions
were
punctually
perform'd
by
the
Chacaly
,
but
the
Dogs
growing
lusty
and
strong
,
resolv'd
to
maintain
their
Post
,
and
have
ever
since
remain'd
in
the
City
.
'T
is
the
remembrance
of
this
Injury
that
makes
the
Chacaly
call
to
the
Dogs
every
Night
in
their
yelling
Language
,
and
summon
'em
to
resign
a
Place
which
they
usurp'd
so
unjustly
;
and
they
answer
as
they
Bark
,
crying
still
,
Yock
,
Yock
,
which
,
in
the
Turkish
Language
signifies
No
,
no.
But
,
instead
of
insisting
longer
on
these
insipid
Fables
,
I
shall
return
to
the
Turkish
Religion
,
which
is
little
less
absurd
and
ridiculous
.
They
are
so
besotted
with
their
Conceits
about
Predestination
,
that
they
use
no
manner
of
precaution
to
preserve
themselves
from
Infectious
Distempers
,
and
are
offended
at
the
Christians
for
taking
care
of
their
Health
on
such
occasions
.
A
Frenchman
told
me
the
other
Day
,
that
during
the
time
of
a
very
violent
Contagion
,
he
perceiv'd
at
a
distance
some
Turks
in
the
Street
,
who
were
carrying
the
Body
of
a
Man
that
dy'd
of
the
Plague
to
his
Grave
.
As
he
was
turning
another
way
on
purpose
to
avoid
meeting
'em
,
one
of
the
Company
ran
after
him
,
and
clasp'd
him
in
his
Arms
,
rubbing
his
Body
upon
him
several
times
;
after
which
opening
his
Vest
,
and
showing
him
a
large
Plague-Sore
under
his
right
Pap
,
Learn
,
said
he
,
not
to
forsake
dead
and
dying
Men.
And
indeed
,
if
we
reflect
seriously
on
the
little
care
they
take
to
stop
that
raging
Disease
,
we
may
reasonably
conclude
,
that
none
of
'em
cou'd
escape
without
a
kind
of
Miracle
,
if
the
Distemper
were
as
Contagious
as
't
is
generally
thought
to
be
.
For
they
never
avoid
the
Converse
of
those
who
come
from
an
infected
Place
,
and
there
are
few
Ports
where
there
are
not
some
Vessels
that
left
the
Plague
reigning
in
the
Towns
from
whence
they
came
.
Yet
this
neglect
of
the
Cautions
us'd
by
other
Nations
on
such
occasions
,
is
never
attended
with
the
least
ill-consequence
,
unless
when
the
disposition
of
the
Air
has
a
sort
of
natural
tendency
to
promote
and
spread
the
Contagion
,
for
then
it
bursts
forth
impetuously
like
Gun-Powder
set
on
Fire
.
But
this
is
not
the
Opinion
of
the
Turks
,
for
they
absolutely
deny
that
the
Infection
depends
either
on
the
Constitution
of
the
Air
,
or
of
humane
Bodies
,
pretending
that
it
proceeds
wholly
from
a
supernatural
Cause
,
and
that
when
GOD
designs
to
execute
the
fury
of
his
Vengeance
on
obstinate
Sinners
,
he
sends
an
Army
of
black
Angels
to
destroy
'em
.
They
add
,
that
every
Angel
receives
of
Bow
and
two
sorts
of
Arrows
,
to
inflict
either
Death
or
Sickness
,
with
orders
to
shoot
their
mortal
Arrows
at
those
whom
they
find
under
the
Power
of
Sin
,
and
to
direct
the
others
at
such
who
are
only
tainted
with
some
Pollution
.
'T
is
then
that
Men
stand
most
in
need
of
the
Protection
of
their
White
Angels
,
who
intercede
for
'em
,
and
do
what
they
can
toward
the
Blows
that
are
aim'd
against
'em
,
sometimes
covering
a
Man
entirely
,
when
they
perceive
a
great
number
of
Enemies
ready
to
attack
him
.
Yet
notwithstanding
all
their
Care
,
their
Assistance
proves
oftentimes
ineffectual
;
and
therefore
't
is
the
Interest
of
every
Man
that
regards
his
own
Safety
,
to
secure
himself
against
the
Vengeance
of
those
destroying
Spirits
,
by
leading
a
sinless
Life
.
The
Turks
pretend
,
that
they
infallibly
perceive
the
Blow
,
when
the
Arrow
pierces
'em
:
And
even
some
Franks
who
have
been
two
or
three
times
seiz'd
with
the
Plague
,
assure
me
,
that
they
felt
a
certain
Pricking
in
the
place
where
the
Carbuncles
break
forth
;
which
is
not
at
all
improbable
,
since
't
is
usual
for
such
a
troublesome
Sensation
to
accompany
all
sorts
of
Tumors
.
But
to
conclude
this
Subject
with
my
Letter
,
I
shall
only
add
,
that
the
Plague
which
rages
so
often
in
these
Oriental
Countries
,
and
sweeps
away
such
vast
numbers
of
the
Inhabitants
,
is
in
some
measure
necessary
for
their
Preservation
.
For
the
number
of
the
People
is
augmented
Yearly
by
at
least
a
fifth
Part
,
and
you
will
be
the
less
inclin'd
to
look
upon
this
as
a
Paradox
,
if
you
consider
that
they
are
allow'd
to
marry
four
Wives
,
and
to
keep
several
Concubines
,
and
that
there
are
50000
Slaves
brought
every
Year
into
Turkey
.
So
that
the
Country
wou'd
be
quickly
over-stock'd
with
Inhabitants
,
and
in
all
probability
,
the
People
wou'd
be
in
danger
of
Starving
,
if
their
numbers
were
not
lessen'd
by
Pestilential
Distempers
.
And
notwithstanding
the
terrible
Havock
it
makes
,
the
Land
is
still
so
full
of
People
,
that
a
Man
wou'd
think
their
own
Interest
shou'd
make
'em
forbid
the
Exportation
of
Corn
,
especially
since
they
have
none
to
spare
.
I
am
,
SIR
,
Your
,
&c.
Smyrna
,
May
,
1691.
LETTER
XXI
.
SIR
,
I
Proceed
now
to
give
you
an
account
of
the
Manners
and
Customs
of
the
Turks
,
which
(
you
may
remember
)
was
the
last
of
the
three
Subjects
I
undertook
to
Discourse
of
.
I
told
you
once
before
,
and
I
shall
take
this
occasion
to
repeat
it
as
an
undoubted
Truth
,
that
they
are
opposite
to
us
almost
in
every
thing
:
And
this
Opposition
appears
in
nothing
more
plainly
,
than
in
their
obstinate
adhering
to
their
ancient
Customs
.
In
our
Country
we
are
never
at
rest
till
we
have
Invented
some
new
fashion
;
and
Beauty
it self
wou'd
hardly
please
us
without
the
Charms
of
Novelty
.
Hence
the
Turks
accuse
the
Franks
of
Fickleness
and
Inconstancy
,
and
boast
of
their
own
strength
of
Mind
that
fixes
steddily
on
solid
Enjoyments
,
without
deigning
to
take
notice
of
Trifles
.
I
confess
I
was
at
first
somewhat
surpriz'd
at
the
difference
I
observ'd
between
their
Temper
and
ours
,
but
after
I
had
taken
all
possible
care
to
free
my self
of
those
Prejudices
that
are
wont
in
such
cases
to
put
a
biass
upon
the
Judgment
,
and
seriously
consider'd
the
Genius
of
that
Nation
;
I
found
that
what
they
call
Strength
of
Mind
,
Constancy
,
or
Solidity
,
is
at
the
bottom
nothing
else
but
a
pure
insensibility
,
and
a
Weakness
that
is
altogether
inexcusable
in
any
reasonable
Creature
.
And
you
will
certainly
be
of
the
same
Opinion
when
I
have
told
you
,
that
they
are
so
far
from
studying
to
improve
their
Understandings
,
that
in
a
manner
they
profess
and
glory
in
their
Ignorance
;
and
that
their
Curiosity
is
confin'd
within
so
narrow
a
compass
,
that
they
never
undertake
a
Voyage
without
some
covetous
or
sordid
Design
.
Besides
,
their
Indifference
and
Unconcern'dness
for
the
Public
Interest
;
the
almost
Monastical
Solitariness
of
their
Life
,
and
the
Laziness
of
their
Temper
are
convincing
Proofs
of
the
truth
of
my
Assertion
.
'T
is
true
indeed
,
this
Character
must
not
be
extended
so
far
as
to
comprehend
the
Principal
Officers
of
State
,
or
those
who
are
engag'd
in
Court-Intrigues
:
But
as
for
all
the
rest
,
they
scarce
ever
look
beyond
the
Sphere
of
their
own
Families
:
And
provided
their
Wives
be
handsome
,
their
Horses
well
Curry'd
,
and
their
Servants
Submissive
and
Respectful
,
they
never
give
themselves
the
trouble
of
enquiring
after
the
Affairs
of
the
rest
of
the
World
.
Contented
with
their
Lot
,
they
sit
whole
Days
on
a
Sopha
,
without
any
other
Occupation
than
drinking
Coffee
,
smoaking
Tobacco
,
or
caressing
their
Wives
:
So
that
their
whole
Life
is
a
continual
Revolution
of
Eating
,
Drinking
,
and
Sleeping
,
intermixt
with
some
dull
Recreations
.
Yet
they
cannot
be
accus'd
of
Luxury
in
Eating
,
for
a
Hen
boil'd
with
Rice
,
Coriander-seed
,
and
Sugar
is
the
best
Dish
that
comes
before
a
Man
of
20000
Livres
a
Year
,
and
't
is
this
they
call
Pilo
.
The
rest
of
the
Meal
is
made
up
with
a
Dish
of
Fish
,
and
some
Sweet-Meats
,
in
which
there
is
always
more
Honey
than
Sugar
.
When
the
Hour
of
Dinner
comes
,
they
lay
upon
the
Sopha
an
Octangular
or
Hexagonal
Table
of
Olive-Wood
or
Walnut-Tree
,
inlaid
with
Ivory
,
&c.
and
usually
not
above
a
Foot
and
a
half
in
Diameter
.
Then
having
laid
the
Cloath
,
they
serve
up
all
the
Dishes
one
after
another
:
There
are
no
Napkins
laid
upon
the
Table
,
but
a
Servant
spreads
'em
on
his
Master's-Knees
'
,
and
stands
behind
him
to
cut
his
Meat
;
for
't
is
beneath
the
Turkish
Grandeur
to
do
any
thing
for
themselves
.
All
their
Vessels
are
of
Earth
;
only
the
Great
Men
use
Porcelain
:
For
they
reckon
it
a
very
heinous
Sin
to
eat
in
Silver
,
tho'
the
Trappings
of
their
Horses
are
usually
of
that
Metal
.
They
never
drink
at
Meals
,
tho'
they
are
wont
to
sit
a
considerable
while
;
but
assoon
as
the
Table
is
remov'd
,
the
Servants
bring
a
Cup
of
Sorbet
,
and
then
Coffee
,
and
Tobacco
,
with
which
they
divert
themselves
all
the
rest
of
the
Day
,
unless
they
take
a
fancy
to
go
to
the
Women's
Apartment
,
or
to
play
at
Shells
with
one
of
their
Servants
,
who
must
always
suffer
himself
to
be
beaten
,
as
he
wou'd
avoid
a
worse
Beating
with
a
Cudgel
.
At
Night
there
is
a
Mat
brought
,
with
Sheets
and
a
Coverlet
;
and
they
Sleep
all
Night
in
the
same
place
where
they
Eat
,
Drunk
,
Play'd
,
and
Doz'd
all
the
Day
:
For
they
are
altogether
ignorant
of
the
use
of
dark
Alcoves
,
and
Beds
with
double
Curtains
.
This
is
their
constant
manner
of
Living
,
after
they
cease
to
be
Youths
;
for
betwixt
the
Years
of
Fifteen
and
Twenty
,
they
spend
their
Time
in
Riding
,
Archery
,
throwing
Darts
,
and
other
Exercises
of
that
nature
in
which
they
usually
attain
to
a
great
Perfection
.
I
do
not
think
that
we
have
any
Grooms
or
Jockeys
in
Europe
that
exceed
'em
,
tho'
if
you
saw
'em
on
Horseback
,
you
wou'd
think
they
cou'd
not
sit
a
moment
.
For
their
Stirrups
are
so
short
,
that
they
must
almost
bend
their
Legs
as
much
as
when
they
sit
upon
a
Sopha
:
Their
Boots
are
of
Spanish
or
Goat's-Leather
,
so
wide
and
ill-made
,
that
nothing
can
be
more
troublesome
to
a
Horseman
:
and
all
the
Furniture
of
their
Horses
is
still
more
incommodious
.
Their
Saddles
are
as
large
and
high
as
a
Pack-saddle
,
especially
before
,
and
fasten'd
on
the
Horse's
back
,
with
a
broad
Girth
or
Surcingle
drawn
over
it
,
without
which
't
wou'd
be
impossible
to
keep
it
from
falling
off
,
by
reason
of
its
weight
.
Instead
of
Bridles
they
use
Snaffles
that
wou'd
be
thought
bad
enough
for
a
Cart-Horse
in
France
,
if
they
were
not
richly
gilded
.
Judge
,
Sir
,
what
a
Figure
a
Man
can
make
on
the
back
of
a
Horse
Trapp'd
after
such
a
manner
,
and
what
Command
he
can
have
over
him
.
Yet
I
assure
you
the
Turks
rule
their
Horses
as
they
please
,
without
either
Spur
or
Whip
,
instead
of
which
they
only
use
a
Stick
or
Batoon
three
Foot
long
,
and
as
big
as
a
very
large
Cane
,
which
they
hold
in
the
middle
,
striking
the
Horse
sometimes
with
one
end
,
and
sometimes
with
the
other
,
according
as
they
wou'd
have
him
turn
to
either
side
.
I
never
saw
Horses
run
so
fast
as
these
,
nor
stretch
their
Bodies
to
so
great
a
length
,
for
their
Belly
almost
touches
the
Ground
.
The
Turks
have
an
admirable
dexterity
at
throwing
Darts
on
Horseback
;
for
riding
at
a
full
Gallop
,
they
Dart
their
Sticks
at
a
Turbant
,
which
is
set
up
as
a
Mark
,
without
once
missing
their
Aim
.
And
which
is
still
more
surprizing
,
they
throw
their
Batoon
as
far
before
'em
as
they
can
,
then
putting
their
Horse
to
the
swiftest
Gallop
they
take
it
up
with
their
Hand
without
stopping
.
You
will
easily
perceive
the
extraordinary
difficulty
of
stooping
so
low
to
take
the
Stick
from
the
Ground
,
if
you
remember
what
I
told
you
of
the
extraordinary
heighth
of
their
Saddles
and
lowness
of
their
Stirrups
.
None
but
Turks
are
able
to
perform
this
Feat
of
Activity
,
for
the
Franks
are
so
far
from
being
capable
of
Learning
it
,
that
they
can
hardly
ride
the
Horses
of
this
Country
.
One
of
our
Merchants
,
newly
come
to
this
place
,
met
with
an
Accident
t'other
Day
,
that
confirms
the
truth
of
what
I
was
saying
;
for
his
Horse
ran
away
with
him
so
furiously
,
that
he
cou'd
not
possibly
pull
in
his
Head
;
and
I
believe
he
wou'd
have
certainly
broke
his
Neck
,
if
he
had
not
been
stop'd
by
a
Greek
who
happen'd
to
meet
him
.
This
proceeded
from
his
Ignorance
of
the
way
of
stopping
a
Horse
in
this
Country
;
for
when
a
Horse
runs
away
with
a
Man
,
he
must
never
pull
the
Bridle
,
since
that
wou'd
only
make
him
go
the
faster
;
but
take
hold
of
one
of
the
Reins
,
and
turn
his
Head
to
the
Right-hand
,
striking
him
with
the
Rod
on
the
other
side
.
'T
is
none
of
the
least
Conveniencies
of
this
Country
,
that
the
Keeping
of
a
Horse
is
so
cheap
,
that
the
Charge
of
one
does
not
amount
to
above
30
Piasters
a
Year
:
'T
is
true
they
must
be
very
carefully
tended
,
and
the
Turks
make
it
their
principal
Business
to
look
after
'em
.
They
visit
'em
very
often
,
and
when
they
find
'em
in
a
good
Condition
,
the
Saïs
is
always
rewarded
with
some
Caresses
;
but
if
there
be
any
thing
amiss
,
he
may
certainly
expect
the
Bastonnado
.
Nor
are
their
Servants
more
chargeable
to
'em
than
their
Horses
.
Their
Valets
de
Chambre
cost
'em
not
above
40
Piasters
a
year
,
for
Wages
,
besides
their
Entertainment
,
which
is
inconsiderable
:
and
the
Servants
without
the
House
,
such
as
the
Saïs
,
Porters
,
and
Gardeners
,
have
but
25.
As
for
their
Entertainment
,
the
Rate
of
their
Board-Wages
is
fixt
at
a
Paras
a
day
,
besides
Bread
.
The
Paras
is
a
small
Piece
of
course
Silver
,
not
exceeding
the
Value
of
five
Dutch
Liards
:
and
yet
some
of
'em
are
such
admirable
Husbands
,
that
they
make
a
shift
to
save
part
of
so
poor
an
Allowance
.
I
shall
in
the
next
place
proceed
to
give
you
an
Account
of
the
usual
Habit
of
the
Men.
Their
Breeches
are
long
and
wide
,
reaching
down
to
their
Heels
,
and
close
both
behind
and
before
,
with
leathern
Stockings
or
Socks
fasten'd
to
the
lower
part
of
'em
:
and
all
this
is
call'd
the
Chascir
.
Their
Shirts
are
of
very
fine
Cotton
Cloth
,
made
exactly
like
a
Woman's
Smock
,
only
they
are
much
wider
,
especially
at
the
Sleeves
,
which
are
always
left
open
.
Over
this
,
instead
of
a
Wast-Coat
,
they
wear
a
Cafetan
,
which
is
a
kind
of
a
long
Cassock
with
narrow
Sleeves
,
button'd
at
the
Wrists
,
like
the
Sleeves
of
our
Doublets
.
In
the
Summer
the
Cafetans
are
made
of
very
white
Cotton
Cloth
,
and
in
Winter
of
Silk
Stuff
quilted
with
Cotton
.
Besides
,
they
are
girt
about
the
Waste
with
a
Silken
Scarf
,
resembling
Brocard
,
that
serves
to
hang
their
Gangiare
or
Poniard
,
the
Handle
of
which
is
pretty
large
,
and
oftentimes
made
of
Ivory
,
the
Teeth
of
a
certain
Fish
,
or
Silver
,
and
enrich'd
with
Jewels
either
true
or
counterfeit
.
They
never
appear
with
a
Sword
or
Sabre
,
but
when
they
go
into
the
Country
:
nor
are
the
Franks
suffer'd
to
wear
one
,
except
the
Ambassadours
and
Consuls
.
Their
upper
Habit
is
a
Cloth
Gown
,
which
they
call
a
Vest
.
In
Summer
't
is
only
lin'd
with
Taffeta
;
but
in
Winter
't
is
furr'd
with
a
Skin
,
call'd
Samour
,
which
is
so
costly
that
Great
Persons
have
some
that
are
worth
1000
Crowns
a
piece
.
The
Hair
of
it
is
black
,
fine
,
and
so
long
,
that
one
may
hide
an
Egg
in
it
;
I
speak
only
of
the
best
sort
;
for
there
are
some
of
all
Prices
.
Besides
they
sometimes
furr
their
Vests
with
Ermins
,
or
with
the
Skin
of
a
bluish
sort
of
Weasel
,
or
of
the
Muscovia
Fox
;
and
the
poorer
sort
with
Kid
,
Foine
,
or
Lambs
Skin
.
They
never
put
any
Gold
or
Silver
on
their
Cloaths
,
unless
on
Days
of
Ceremony
,
such
as
the
Grand
Signior's
publick
Entry
,
their
Wedding-Day
,
or
some
such
Solemnity
:
and
even
then
't
is
the
peculiar
Privilege
of
the
Bassa's
and
Grandees
of
the
Port
,
to
wear
Ornaments
of
that
Nature
.
You
see
what
a
Difference
there
is
between
the
Customs
of
this
Place
,
and
of
France
,
where
even
the
Footmen
are
gilt
all
over
from
Head
to
Foot
.
Beauty
is
the
Object
of
the
reigning
Passion
of
the
Turks
:
and
when
they
speak
of
a
handsome
Woman
they
seem
to
be
all
transport
and
extasie
.
Yet
they
are
oblig'd
to
court
their
Mistresses
by
Proxy
,
and
even
must
be
contented
to
take
a
Character
of
'em
from
Continency
,
are
forc'd
to
make
use
of
the
Privilege
of
Keeping
Concubines
,
or
buying
Slaves
.
For
a
Man
must
not
expect
to
live
upon
Charity
here
,
tho'
the
Women
are
not
at
all
guilty
of
Cruelty
:
but
want
of
Opportunity
hinders
'em
from
bestowing
their
Favours
,
and
't
is
impossible
for
a
Gallant
to
thrive
among
such
cautious
Husbands
.
There
is
no
Slavery
equal
to
that
of
the
Turkish
Women
;
for
a
Servant
may
live
Twenty
Years
in
a
Family
without
seeing
the
Face
of
his
Mistress
.
The
Door
of
the
Womens
Apartment
is
a
Ne
plus
ultra
for
every
thing
that
looks
like
a
Man
,
and
the
utmost
Limit
of
the
Womens
Liberty
;
I
mean
Women
of
Quality
,
who
have
Baths
in
their
Houses
;
for
the
meaner
Sort
must
go
to
the
public
Baths
at
least
once
a
Week
.
Notwithstanding
this
close
Confinement
,
I
'm
inform'd
that
they
sometimes
venture
upon
a
little
Recreation
;
but
they
are
seldom
so
bold
,
and
the
Motion
must
always
proceed
from
themselves
.
When
they
are
in
the
Humour
,
and
have
chosen
a
promising
Play-fellow
,
they
send
him
a
Declaration
of
Love
by
some
old
Confident
.
But
wou'd
you
not
be
surpriz'd
instead
of
a
Billet-doux
to
find
nothing
but
Bits
of
Charcoal
,
Scarlet
Cloth
,
Saffron
,
Ashes
,
and
such
like
Trash
,
wrapt
up
in
a
Piece
of
Paper
.
'T
is
true
these
are
as
significant
as
the
most
passionate
Words
;
but
't
is
a
Mystical
Language
that
cannot
be
understood
without
a
Turkish
Interpreter
.
I
know
a
Frank
that
once
receiv'd
such
an
Invitation
,
and
was
extremely
puzzl'd
to
know
the
Meaning
of
it
.
After
several
successless
Trials
to
unriddle
the
Mystery
,
he
entrusted
the
Secret
to
one
of
the
Ambassadour's
Interpreters
,
who
told
him
that
such
a
Bassa's
Wife
desir'd
him
to
visit
her
such
a
day
,
when
her
Husband
wou'd
be
gone
from
home
,
and
that
the
Woman
who
brought
him
the
Message
wou'd
introduce
him
to
her
Apartment
.
At
the
same
time
he
advis'd
him
not
to
go
,
and
us'd
all
the
Arguments
that
his
Experience
or
Prudence
cou'd
suggest
to
disswade
him
from
exposing
himself
to
so
terrible
and
unavoidable
a
Danger
.
But
the
Frank
had
such
a
longing
desire
to
taste
so
delicious
a
Bit
as
he
fansi'd
his
Unknown
Mistress
to
be
,
that
he
resolv'd
to
sacrifice
all
to
the
Dear
Expectation
,
and
went
boldly
to
the
Bassa's
House
at
the
time
appointed
,
where
he
really
found
a
kind
and
beautiful
Lady
,
who
put
him
in
possession
of
his
expected
Delight
,
and
entertain'd
him
with
all
the
Joys
of
Love
,
for
two
days
;
at
the
end
of
which
his
Strength
being
quite
exhausted
by
the
laborious
Pleasure
,
and
finding
himself
altogether
unfit
for
the
Service
,
he
ask'd
leave
to
be
gone
,
and
was
extremely
surpriz'd
when
his
Request
was
deny'd
,
in
a
very
harsh
and
uncivil
Manner
.
Then
beginning
to
reflect
on
the
Interpreter's
wise
Admonition
;
he
walk'd
about
the
whole
Apartment
,
searching
in
every
Corner
for
a
place
where
he
might
escape
unperceiv'd
.
At
last
he
came
to
the
Laundry
or
Washing-House
,
where
he
found
a
Woman-Slave
,
who
perceiving
his
Melancholy
,
and
guessing
the
Cause
of
it
,
began
to
condole
his
Misfortune
in
a
manner
that
made
him
utterly
despair
of
Relief
.
For
she
told
him
that
't
was
her
Mistress's
constant
Practice
to
secure
her
own
Reputation
by
the
Death
of
her
Lovers
;
adding
,
that
to
her
certain
Knowledge
above
Twenty
of
'em
had
been
strangl'd
since
she
came
into
the
Family
,
and
that
he
cou'd
not
reasonably
expect
a
milder
Treatment
than
his
Predecessors
had
met
with
before
him
.
Yet
,
said
she
,
since
we
are
both
Christians
,
I
'll
endeavour
to
save
your
Life
,
if
you
do
not
force
me
to
hate
you
by
refusing
to
grant
me
one
Favour
.
I
have
been
shut
up
in
this
place
these
Twenty
Years
,
and
in
all
that
time
have
not
seen
the
Face
of
a
Man
:
Oblige
me
but
once
,
and
afterwards
I
shall
find
a
way
to
set
you
at
Liberty
.
The
Terms
were
somewhat
hard
for
a
Man
in
his
Condition
;
but
since
his
Life
was
at
stake
,
he
made
a
Vertue
of
Necessity
,
and
perform'd
as
well
as
he
cou'd
.
The
poor
Woman
,
who
had
been
a
Stranger
so
long
to
the
Pleasure
of
Love
,
was
ravish'd
with
the
unaccustom'd
Delight
;
and
having
given
him
a
thousand
Blessings
,
help'd
him
to
make
his
Escape
thro'
the
Chimney
,
which
brought
him
to
a
Platform
,
from
whence
he
leap'd
into
the
Street
,
and
has
never
since
found
the
least
Inclination
to
make
Love
to
a
Turkish
Lady
;
which
is
certainly
the
most
dangerous
Recreation
that
a
Frank
can
chuse
.
The
Turks
require
so
much
Modesty
and
Discretion
in
their
Wives
,
that
they
wou'd
never
pardon
'em
if
they
shou'd
suffer
a
Man
to
see
'em
,
or
speak
to
'em
:
and
I
shall
never
forget
what
an
Aga
once
said
to
Monsieur
de
Chateauneuf's
Secretary
.
This
Gentleman
was
telling
the
Aga
after
the
French
way
,
that
is
very
indiscreetly
,
that
he
had
seen
and
spoken
with
one
of
Mahomet
the
Fourth's
Odalische's
,
who
was
turn'd
out
of
the
Seraglio
after
that
Prince's
Misfortune
.
The
Turk
,
who
cou'd
not
hear
him
longer
with
Patience
,
reply'd
very
angrily
,
that
she
was
a
base
Woman
,
and
unworthy
of
her
former
Dignity
.
Then
the
Secretary
endeavour'd
to
persuade
him
that
she
had
no
ill
Design
in
what
she
did
,
and
that
't
was
only
an
innocent
Curiosity
that
made
her
willing
to
be
inform'd
of
the
French
Customs
,
of
the
Beauty
of
the
Ladies
in
that
Country
,
and
of
their
Way
of
Living
.
But
the
Aga
,
instead
of
being
pacify'd
,
continu'd
to
rail
again
the
Odalische
so
vehemently
,
that
the
Secretary
began
to
repent
his
Freedom
,
and
to
swear
and
protest
that
she
was
one
of
the
most
vertuous
Persons
in
the
World
,
and
that
she
was
not
guilty
of
the
least
criminal
Thought
.
At
last
the
Aga
,
losing
all
Patience
,
reply'd
in
a
Rage
;
Sir
,
All
that
you
have
said
signifies
nothing
.
If
she
had
been
honest
,
she
wou'd
never
have
suffer'd
you
to
see
her
,
much
less
to
speak
to
her
.
If
a
Man
shou'd
put
his
Hand
into
your
Pocket
,
wou'd
you
excuse
him
for
saying
that
he
did
it
out
of
pure
Curiosity
.
Since
I
have
had
occasion
so
often
to
mention
the
Turkish
Women
,
't
will
not
be
improper
to
give
you
some
Account
of
their
Habit
,
which
is
not
much
different
from
that
of
the
Men
,
only
't
is
a
great
deal
richer
.
They
wear
a
Cafetan
of
Gold-Brocard
,
fasten'd
before
with
large
Pearls
,
or
little
Knots
of
Diamonds
.
It
covers
their
Shoulders
entirely
,
but
't
is
cut
so
deep
before
,
that
their
whole
Breasts
wou'd
remain
naked
,
if
their
Smock
,
and
a
little
fort
of
Waste-Coat
that
comes
over
it
,
did
not
hide
a
part
of
'em
.
This
Waste-Coat
sits
very
close
to
the
Body
,
and
keeps
up
the
Breasts
,
which
is
a
great
Conveniency
to
those
whose
Breasts
are
naturally
loose
and
swagging
:
so
that
all
Defects
are
conceal'd
,
and
the
most
curious
Eye
can
perceive
nothing
but
enchanting
Beauties
.
Above
the
Cafetan
they
wear
a
Leathern
Girdle
,
cover'd
with
Plates
and
Studs
of
Gold
and
Silver
,
and
enrich'd
with
precious
Stones
that
cast
a
great
Lustre
.
Their
Smock
is
always
of
the
finest
flower'd
Silk
,
and
hangs
over
their
Chacsir
,
which
in
Summer
is
only
made
of
the
same
Silk
,
by
reason
of
the
excessive
Heat
.
Every
prudent
Christian
ought
to
keep
his
Eyes
from
glancing
that
way
;
if
it
be
possible
for
any
Man
to
preserve
his
Reason
at
the
Sight
of
the
enflaming
Object
,
for
this
Stuff
,
which
is
no
thicker
than
Tiffany
or
Gawze
,
gives
the
ravish'd
Beholder
an
almost
unclouded
View
of
all
the
most
charming
Beauties
that
are
so
carefully
conceal'd
by
our
Ladies
.
Their
upper
Vest
is
either
of
Cloth
or
Velvet
embroider'd
,
or
of
some
rich
sort
of
Cloth
of
Gold
:
In
Summer
't
is
furr'd
with
Ermin
,
and
in
Winter
with
Samour
.
Their
Head-Dress
is
so
magnificent
and
becoming
,
that
you
can
hardly
form
a
suitable
Idea
of
it
unless
you
had
seen
it
;
tho'
the
following
Description
may
in
some
measure
satisfie
your
Curiosity
.
Their
Talpo
is
a
pretty
long
Velvet-Cap
,
made
of
Eight
Pieces
,
the
outward
Circle
being
just
large
enough
to
receive
the
Head
;
but
it
widens
by
degrees
towards
the
Top
,
not
unlike
to
a
close
Crown
.
'T
is
adorn'd
with
the
richest
Embroidery
of
Gold
,
Silver
,
and
Pearls
:
and
is
so
long
,
that
it
wou'd
fall
back
upon
the
Shoulders
,
if
it
were
not
very
artificially
rais'd
above
the
Head
,
where
they
pleit
and
fold
it
with
as
much
Care
as
our
Ladies
do
their
Fontanges
and
Top-Knots
.
'T
is
also
enrich'd
with
long
Strings
of
Pearls
curiously
interwoven
,
and
strew'd
with
Diamonds
,
Rubies
,
and
all
sorts
of
Jewels
,
besides
one
or
two
Aigrets
of
Diamonds
.
To
keep
it
up
they
bind
it
about
the
Head
with
a
Frontlet
,
about
two
Fingers
breadth
broad
,
and
so
rich
,
that
it
may
be
fitly
call'd
a
Diadem
;
for
't
is
cover'd
all
over
with
Gold
and
Precious
Stones
.
Round
this
Frontlet
there
are
little
Gold
Chains
,
with
a
Diamond
hanging
at
one
,
an
Emerald
at
another
,
&c.
which
dangle
upon
the
Forehead
,
and
on
both
sides
of
the
Face
.
I
need
not
tell
you
that
such
magnificent
Dresses
are
only
us'd
by
Bassa's
Wives
,
for
tho'
Jewels
are
cheaper
here
than
in
Europe
,
they
are
still
so
chargeable
,
that
it
requires
a
very
considerable
Estate
to
make
so
great
a
Figure
.
However
I
can
assure
you
that
every
Woman
,
according
to
her
Ability
,
decks
her self
to
the
best
Advantage
;
and
the
whole
Dowry
,
or
the
Money
that
is
given
by
the
Father
,
is
laid
out
on
Ornaments
for
the
Bride
.
But
when
a
Woman's
Portion
is
not
sufficient
to
purchase
so
many
Jewels
,
she
must
content
her self
with
a
plain
Frontlet
of
Gold
,
or
Silver-gilt
;
and
some
that
cannot
reach
so
high
,
only
tye
an
embroider'd
Handkerchief
about
their
Talpo's
,
which
is
the
Dress
of
the
poorest
Sort
,
and
even
the
meanest
Cobler's
Wife
will
not
appear
without
it
.
As
for
their
Hair
,
they
make
it
up
into
a
long
Tress
,
about
the
breadth
of
four
Fingers
,
that
falls
backward
,
and
sometimes
reaches
to
their
Heels
;
and
they
whose
Hair
is
not
becoming
,
endeavour
to
supply
that
Defect
,
by
mixing
false
Hair
among
it
.
Besides
,
there
is
a
little
Curl
on
each
side
of
the
Forehead
,
that
runs
along
the
Face
:
And
they
are
very
careful
to
keep
these
Curls
in
Order
,
and
to
dye
'em
Black
with
a
certain
Composition
,
that
serves
also
to
dye
their
Brows
,
which
are
always
extremely
handsome
:
For
they
take
care
to
have
'em
shap'd
with
a
Razor
,
and
afterwards
apply
to
the
shav'd
Parts
a
certain
Paste
,
call'd
Pilo
,
which
hinders
the
Hair
from
growing
.
In
Turkey
,
as
well
as
in
Europe
,
the
Women
generally
Paint
;
for
tho'
they
're
asham'd
to
acknowledge
it
,
I
met
with
a
Greekish
Woman
,
who
scrupl'd
not
to
confess
that
few
of
her
Sex
abstain
from
that
Custom
.
Their
White
Paint
is
a
sort
of
very
thick
Grease
,
which
I
cannot
describe
,
since
I
had
not
the
Curiosity
to
enquire
how
they
make
it
.
But
as
for
their
Red
Paint
,
't
is
nothing
else
but
Cochineel
,
prepar'd
with
Cream
of
Tartar
,
and
boil'd
so
long
till
there
remains
only
a
Tenth
Part
of
the
Composition
.
They
use
it
with
so
much
Success
,
that
I
believe
it
might
serve
for
Spanish
Vermilion
,
and
even
is
,
in
my
Opinion
,
more
natural
.
They
also
Paint
their
Nails
Red
,
but
not
with
Cochineel
.
The
Turkish
Women
are
the
most
charming
Creatures
in
the
World
:
They
seem
to
be
made
for
Love
;
their
Actions
,
Gestures
,
Discourse
,
and
Looks
are
all
Amorous
,
and
admirably
well
fitted
to
kindle
a
soft
and
lasting
Passion
.
Since
they
have
nothing
else
to
do
,
they
make
it
their
only
Business
to
Please
;
which
they
do
so
successfully
,
and
in
so
natural
and
easie
a
Manner
,
that
few
Husbands
take
the
benefit
of
the
Law
,
that
allows
'em
to
divorce
their
Wives
when
they
please
.
This
seems
so
strange
and
surprizing
,
that
I
cannot
forbear
reckoning
it
a
sort
of
Prodigy
,
when
I
reflect
on
the
Genius
of
all
other
Nations
:
For
Men
are
usually
quite
cloy'd
with
the
Pleasures
of
Matrimony
in
three
or
four
Years
;
and
if
a
Maid
had
nothing
else
but
her
Person
to
recommend
her
to
a
Husband
,
she
might
e'en
despair
of
ever
tasting
the
lawful
Joys
of
the
Bed
.
Whereas
in
this
Country
,
instead
of
enriching
or
maintaining
their
Husbands
,
they
put
'em
to
so
prodigious
a
Charge
,
that
none
but
Persons
of
high
Quality
are
able
to
keep
four
Wives
.
The
extreme
Neatness
of
the
Turkish
Women
is
none
of
their
least
considerable
Charms
;
and
this
extraordinary
Cleanness
is
an
effect
of
their
Bathing
at
least
once
a
Week
;
for
the
nicer
sort
bathe
twice
.
I
think
I
told
you
before
that
Women
of
Quality
have
the
conveniency
of
Bathing
at
Home
;
and
that
the
rest
go
to
the
common
Baths
.
I
must
now
add
,
that
the
Virtue
,
and
even
the
Modesty
of
a
Woman
is
as
secure
in
the
Public
,
as
in
the
Private
Baths
;
for
Men
are
forbidden
to
enter
into
these
Sacred
Places
under
pain
of
Death
.
These
Baths
are
large
Halls
built
of
Marble
,
and
cover'd
with
vaulted
Roofs
in
form
of
Domes
;
on
the
Top
of
which
there
are
Glass-Windows
to
let
in
the
Light
,
without
suffering
the
Heat
to
evaporate
.
There
are
no
Windows
in
the
Walls
,
that
the
Women
may
undress
themselves
without
fear
of
exposing
their
Naked
Beauties
to
the
Observation
of
some
Curious
Enquirer
into
the
Works
of
Nature
;
and
besides
,
they
take
care
to
cover
their
Distinguishing
Parts
with
a
Cloth
wrapt
about
their
Belly
,
and
tied
on
the
Back
.
Then
they
Sweat
a
quarter
of
an
Hour
or
longer
;
and
for
the
Conveniency
of
those
who
are
desirous
to
bathe
in
Water
,
there
is
in
the
same
Place
a
Va●
or
Bathing-Tub
,
which
they
fill
with
hot
Water
by
turning
a
Cock
,
tempering
and
allaying
it
when
't
is
excessively
hot
,
by
turning
another
Cock
that
lets
in
cold
Water
.
There
are
Waiting-Women
always
ready
to
attend
those
who
come
to
bathe
,
who
for
a
small
Reward
crack
all
the
Joynts
of
their
Arms
,
Legs
,
and
Thighs
.
At
the
same
time
they
anoint
the
hairy
Parts
of
the
Body
with
Pilo
,
which
makes
the
Hair
fall
off
,
and
leaves
the
Skin
extremely
white
and
smooth
.
The
Men
have
their
Baths
apart
,
and
are
serv'd
after
the
same
manner
.
There
are
three
sorts
of
Recreations
us'd
by
the
Turks
;
Gaming
,
Musick
,
and
Dancing
.
You
may
perceive
by
the
Account
I
gave
you
of
their
Games
,
that
they
are
neither
Pleasant
nor
Ingenious
:
And
I
shall
take
this
occasion
to
tell
you
,
that
their
Musick
is
rather
a
hideous
Dinn
than
a
regular
Harmony
,
and
resembles
exactly
the
howling
Shrieks
of
a
tortur'd
Wretch
.
The
first
time
I
heard
a
Turk
sing
,
I
cou'd
not
forbear
stopping
to
look
upon
him
,
concluding
that
he
was
certainly
Mad
:
For
I
cou'd
not
imagine
that
a
Man
who
had
the
use
of
his
Reason
,
wou'd
take
pleasure
in
distorting
his
Body
,
and
rolling
his
Eyes
in
so
odd
and
extravagant
a
manner
;
tho'
they
pretend
that
all
those
unusual
Motions
are
only
the
Marks
and
Effects
of
a
tender
and
violent
Passion
.
Their
Musical
Instruments
are
extremely
suitable
to
the
Nature
of
their
Harmony
:
For
they
have
a
kind
of
Violin
with
three
Strings
,
a
Neck
as
long
as
a
Man's
Arm
,
and
a
great
Belly
like
the
Block
of
a
Hat
;
some
ill-contriv'd
Flutes
;
little
Timbrels
about
the
bigness
of
one's
Fist
,
a
Drum
,
some
paultry
Hautbois
,
and
several
little
Brazen
Targets
,
which
they
hold
in
their
Hands
,
and
knock
against
one
another
.
Judge
,
Sir
,
what
a
mad
Consort
they
make
with
the
confus'd
jangling
of
so
many
inharmonious
Instruments
.
The
only
tolerable
Instrument
they
have
is
the
Psalterion
,
which
is
cover'd
with
Latten
Strings
,
stretcht
as
upon
a
Harpsical
;
and
they
strike
upon
'em
with
little
Sticks
,
which
they
hold
betwixt
their
two
Fingers
.
All
the
Women
play
admirably
well
on
this
Instrument
,
for
't
is
their
usual
Diversion
in
their
Chambers
,
especially
the
Greeks
,
whose
Musick
may
be
heard
with
Pleasure
,
since
't
is
a
great
deal
more
agreeable
than
that
of
the
Turks
.
I
shall
only
add
on
this
Subject
,
that
neither
of
'em
sing
the
Notes
without
the
Words
;
and
our
way
of
singing
Tunes
seems
so
ridiculous
to
'em
,
that
they
usually
laugh
at
the
Franks
,
and
ask
'em
what
their
Tartara
lera
signifies
.
The
Turkish
Dancing
P.
276
Dancing
is
most
in
use
among
the
Peasants
,
who
without
pretending
to
Art
,
or
learning
any
regular
Steps
,
put
their
Bodies
into
such
odd
and
extravagant
Postures
,
that
the
nimblest
Dancing-Master
wou'd
be
extremely
puzl'd
to
imitate
.
They
seem
to
be
actually
possess'd
with
a
Devil
,
and
from
Time
to
Time
break
forth
into
such
loud
and
furious
Shouts
,
that
one
wou'd
certainly
conclude
'em
to
be
acted
by
some
Daemon
,
if
he
did
not
know
that
all
these
Motions
are
only
feign'd
Transports
.
They
usually
hold
a
great
Stick
in
their
Hands
,
with
which
they
beat
the
Walls
and
Ground
in
a
furious
and
terrible
Manner
,
and
continue
those
violent
Agitations
of
their
Feet
,
Hands
,
and
Head
,
till
their
Weariness
and
want
of
Strength
oblige
them
to
give
over
;
and
even
sometimes
they
Dance
till
they
fall
down
in
a
sort
of
Extasie
or
Fit
of
Dizziness
.
I
had
the
Pleasure
to
see
all
those
various
kinds
of
Dances
at
Constantinople
,
in
Monsieur
de
Chateauneuf's
House
,
on
the
Day
appointed
to
solemnize
the
Publick
Joy
for
the
advantageous
Success
of
the
Campagne
against
the
Christians
.
And
these
Diversions
were
succeeded
by
a
certain
odd
kind
of
Show
,
perform'd
by
the
Jews
.
Since
all
sorts
of
Figures
are
an
abomination
to
the
Turks
,
there
were
Puppets
represented
in
Shadows
on
the
Wall
,
which
Danc'd
and
Sung
to
the
Satisfaction
of
all
the
Company
,
as
it
appear'd
by
their
Laughing
and
pleasant
Humour
.
I
cou'd
not
understand
the
Words
of
their
Songs
,
but
if
I
may
be
allow'd
to
judge
of
their
Expressions
by
their
Postures
,
they
were
certainly
very
obscene
;
for
I
never
saw
any
thing
so
brutish
as
the
Representations
of
those
Shadows
.
Nor
will
this
appear
strange
to
those
who
consider
that
the
Turks
are
more
addicted
to
that
infamous
Vice
for
which
Sodom
and
Gomorrha
were
destroy'd
,
than
any
other
Nation
in
the
World
;
and
that
the
Advancement
of
one
half
of
the
great
Officers
in
the
Empire
,
is
an
Effect
of
their
base
Complaisance
to
their
beastly
Patrons
.
Thus
the
Turkish
Songs
are
doubly
naufeous
to
the
Franks
,
who
are
not
accustom'd
to
such
horrid
Impurities
.
The
Puppet-Show
was
follow'd
by
another
of
almost
the
same
Nature
.
Four
Jews
ty'd
certain
Sticks
cross-wise
to
their
Wrists
and
Feet
,
and
clothing
them
like
Men
and
Women
,
plac'd
themselves
all
under
one
Covering
;
then
the
first
stretching
out
one
of
his
Arms
,
made
the
half
Figures
Dance
and
Sing
;
after
him
came
another
;
then
a
third
;
and
at
last
the
eight
Arms
of
the
four
Jews
perform'd
several
extravagant
Motions
on
the
Covering
,
accompany'd
with
a
confus'd
Din
;
after
which
they
stood
upon
their
Heads
,
and
discovering
eight
larger
Figures
that
were
fastned
to
their
Feet
,
entertain'd
the
Company
with
another
Show
exactly
like
the
former
.
I
had
occasion
in
some
of
my
former
Letters
to
mention
the
rest
of
the
Turkish
Customs
;
and
you
may
conclude
that
what
I
have
omitted
is
either
inconsiderable
,
or
very
particularly
describ'd
by
other
Travellers
.
And
therefore
I
shall
conclude
this
Subject
after
I
have
added
one
or
two
Observations
concerning
their
Civility
.
They
seldom
make
any
Visits
,
but
when
they
come
to
treat
of
Business
;
and
those
who
do
are
always
entertain'd
with
Perfumes
,
Coffee
,
and
Sherbet
,
as
in
the
Account
I
gave
you
of
Monsieur
de
Chasteauneuf's
Reception
at
the
Caimacan's
House
.
The
Left-hand
is
reckon'd
the
Place
of
Honour
,
because
't
is
next
the
Heart
;
and
when
they
salute
,
instead
of
pulling
off
their
Turbants
,
they
lay
their
Hands
upon
their
Breast
,
and
at
the
same
time
bow
their
Bodies
,
which
they
repeat
several
times
when
they
wou'd
express
a
more
than
ordinary
Affection
to
the
Person
whom
they
salute
.
This
is
the
whole
Ceremony
of
a
simple
Salutation
;
but
when
they
intend
to
show
a
profound
Respect
,
they
must
not
only
lay
their
Hand
upon
their
Breast
,
but
make
several
low
Bows
,
and
with
all
the
signs
of
Humility
kiss
the
lower
part
of
the
Person
's
Vest
;
after
which
they
stand
upright
,
and
continue
still
to
keep
their
Hand
upon
their
Breast
,
or
even
sometimes
both
Hands
,
while
they
are
in
the
presence
of
him
whom
they
wou'd
respect
.
When
he
goes
abroad
,
they
must
make
a
Lane
for
him
,
as
they
see
his
Servants
do
,
and
salute
him
with
a
low
Bow
as
he
passes
by
.
Besides
,
in
the
Absence
of
the
Servants
,
they
usually
present
their
Hands
to
hold
him
under
the
Arms
when
he
goes
up
or
down
Stairs
,
or
Mounts
his
Horse
,
and
on
some
other
Occasions
of
the
same
Nature
;
But
when
his
Servants
are
present
,
't
is
their
Office
to
offer
their
Assistance
to
their
Master
.
When
a
Frank
makes
a
Visit
to
his
Turkish
Friends
,
they
still
present
him
with
a
Pipe
after
his
Coffee
;
which
is
a
very
troublesom
piece
of
Civility
to
those
who
have
so
strong
an
Aversion
to
Tobacco
as
I
have
,
especially
considering
the
peremptory
Stiffness
of
the
Turks
,
who
will
not
admit
of
the
most
reasonable
Excuse
.
Some
great
Persons
smoak
a
sort
of
perfum'd
Tobacco
,
like
that
of
which
Spanish
Snuff
is
made
;
but
our
Franks
never
use
any
of
that
kind
.
I
have
had
occasion
five
or
six
times
to
speak
of
their
Persons
of
Quality
,
without
acquainting
you
with
the
Nature
of
their
Grandeur
and
Nobility
;
and
therefore
I
shall
conclude
this
Letter
with
a
short
Account
of
it
.
You
must
not
imagine
that
these
are
Persons
of
an
Ancient
and
Noble
Extraction
;
for
tho'
there
may
be
some
of
'em
that
are
honourably
descended
,
the
greatest
part
of
'em
owe
their
Advancement
merely
to
Fortune
,
or
are
the
Creatures
of
some
Bassa
;
and
their
first
Preferments
are
only
the
Rewards
of
their
Service
.
Thus
we
frequently
see
that
a
poor
Slave
is
advanc'd
by
degrees
to
the
highest
Dignities
in
the
Empire
;
and
it
may
be
said
in
the
general
,
that
Riches
are
the
Fountain
of
Honour
in
Turkey
.
This
Reflexion
puts
me
in
Mind
of
a
blunt
Repartee
that
was
made
to
the
Marquess
de
la
Marzelliere
by
one
of
these
Pretenders
to
Nobility
.
This
Marquess
was
descended
of
one
of
the
most
illustrious
Families
in
Bretaigne
,
and
yet
scrupl'd
not
to
marry
a
Citizen's
Daughter
of
St.
Malo's
,
who
brought
him
a
Portion
of
Two
hundred
thousand
Pounds
.
However
,
it
seems
,
her
Brother
,
whose
Fortune
was
equal
to
hers
,
did
not
think
himself
much
honour'd
by
this
Allyance
;
for
imagining
that
the
Lustre
of
his
Gold
was
bright
enough
to
make
amends
for
the
Obscurity
of
his
Birth
,
he
wou'd
never
be
persuaded
to
shew
the
least
respect
to
his
Brother-in-Law
.
One
Day
as
they
were
disputing
about
some
Points
of
Honour
,
after
several
angry
Replies
,
he
told
the
Marquess
he
knew
no
Reason
why
he
shou'd
be
so
proud
of
a
Title
,
and
at
last
added
,
that
he
was
as
good
a
Marquess
as
himself
.
Marquess
of
what
?
said
Monsieur
de
la
Marzelliere
;
Of
what
?
reply'd
he
,
I
'm
Marquess
of
Two
Hundred
Thousand
Crowns
in
good
Lewis
d'Ors
.
I
have
made
it
my
Business
to
be
acquainted
with
the
Arch-Bishop
of
this
Place
,
who
is
a
Person
of
Wit
and
Merit
,
and
has
given
me
a
particular
Account
of
the
principal
Differences
between
the
Graecian
and
Romish
Religions
;
which
I
intend
shall
be
the
Subject
of
my
next
Letter
.
I
am
,
SIR
,
Your
&c.
Smyrna
,
June
1691.
LETTER
XXII
.
SIR
,
AFter
the
general
Idea
I
have
given
you
of
the
Religion
and
Customs
of
the
Turks
,
you
will
perhaps
expect
an
Account
of
their
Christian
Subjects
,
the
Greeks
,
and
read
with
pleasure
some
Remarks
on
a
Subject
of
which
I
have
often
observ'd
that
even
the
more
inquisitive
part
of
our
European
World
have
but
a
very
slight
and
confus'd
Notion
.
The
present
Condition
of
this
Nation
is
so
miserable
,
and
so
apt
to
produce
all
the
most
tender
Motions
of
Compassion
in
those
who
seriously
reflect
upon
it
,
that
't
wou'd
be
needless
to
heighten
the
Gloominess
of
the
Prospect
by
comparing
it
with
their
former
Glory
,
which
after
a
long
and
fatal
Eclipse
,
was
restor'd
to
its
ancient
Splendor
by
Constantine
the
Great
,
whose
Memory
will
last
till
the
final
Period
of
the
World
.
But
the
Empire
of
the
East
,
which
he
founded
,
and
united
to
that
of
the
West
,
was
divided
again
after
his
Death
,
and
continu'd
in
a
declining
Condition
till
the
final
Overthrow
of
the
Palaeologi
by
the
Turks
,
in
the
Fifteenth
Age
;
since
which
time
the
Greeks
have
still
been
Slaves
in
a
Country
of
which
they
were
formerly
Sovereigns
;
and
to
redeem
themselves
from
the
Yoak
under
which
they
are
born
,
they
are
forc'd
to
pay
a
yearly
Tribute
,
call'd
the
Carache
,
which
is
only
impos'd
upon
them
,
and
their
Fellow-Slaves
the
Jews
.
The
Carache
is
a
perpetual
Poll-Tax
,
and
exceeds
not
four
Piasters
a
Man
;
and
yet
since
't
is
a
Mark
of
their
Bondage
,
they
have
left
no
Means
unessay'd
to
deliver
themselves
from
it
,
and
have
even
offer'd
to
raise
more
considerable
Summs
another
way
.
Besides
,
there
are
oftentimes
large
Avanies
impos'd
upon
'em
,
which
they
levy
among
themselves
,
according
to
the
proportion
of
their
Estates
.
All
their
Patriarchs
,
Bishops
,
and
Abbots
are
also
oblig'd
to
pay
for
their
Patents
;
and
the
Prices
that
are
exacted
of
'em
cannot
but
amount
to
a
very
considerable
Summ
,
since
there
are
above
five
Thousand
Arch-Bishops
and
Bishops
in
the
Turkish
Empire
,
who
,
reckoning
one
with
another
,
pay
above
two
Thousand
Piasters
a-piece
,
as
a
Fine
to
the
Grand
Signior
.
The
Greeks
are
naturally
Proud
,
and
lovers
of
Pomp
and
Magnificence
:
Most
of
'em
spend
higher
than
their
Estates
will
bear
,
and
are
very
fond
of
the
Title
of
Chelety
or
Lord
.
Yet
even
the
richest
of
'em
,
of
which
there
is
a
considerable
Number
,
are
look'd
upon
as
Objects
of
Scorn
and
Contempt
by
the
Turks
.
'T
is
true
,
they
are
not
insensible
of
their
Slavery
,
and
perhaps
wou'd
willingly
shake
off
the
insupportable
Yoak
of
their
Domineering
Masters
;
but
the
Natural
Impatience
of
their
Temper
is
more
than
sufficiently
curb'd
by
their
Weakness
,
and
want
of
Power
;
and
they
must
e'en
content
themselves
with
repining
in
secret
at
the
resistless
Tyranny
of
their
Oppressors
:
For
they
are
seldom
or
never
able
to
obtain
Satisfaction
for
the
Injuries
they
receive
from
the
Turks
,
if
the
Offenders
are
not
wholly
destitute
both
of
Friends
and
Money
.
The
Habit
of
the
Greeks
is
very
different
from
that
of
the
Turks
.
They
are
not
permitted
to
wear
a
white
Turbant
;
nor
must
their
Turbants
be
of
the
same
bigness
with
those
that
are
us'd
by
the
Turks
,
nor
folded
after
the
same
manner
:
For
they
only
wrap
a
little
piece
of
Course
Cloth
,
either
blue
or
strip'd
with
blue
,
two
or
three
times
about
their
Caps
;
and
even
usually
they
wear
none
at
all
,
but
content
themselves
with
a
little
red
Cap
which
is
not
large
enough
to
cover
their
Ears
.
Instead
of
a
Vest
they
have
only
a
plain
Wast-coat
,
which
is
very
short
,
and
open
before
;
and
over
that
they
wear
another
that
meets
on
the
side
.
Neither
ought
they
to
wear
a
Chacsir
after
the
Turkish
Fashion
;
for
their
Breeches
are
very
short
,
and
reach
not
below
the
Knee
.
And
besides
,
they
are
distinguish'd
from
the
Turks
by
their
red
Babouches
;
for
those
that
are
us'd
by
the
Turks
are
yellow
.
Thus
I
have
given
you
a
short
Account
of
the
Habit
of
the
Greeks
;
but
tho'
most
of
'em
do
,
and
all
of
'em
are
oblig'd
to
wear
it
,
some
of
the
richer
sort
are
so
far
from
observing
these
Regulations
,
that
they
can
scarce
be
distinguish'd
from
the
Turks
but
by
their
Turbants
:
And
even
all
Persons
of
Note
,
whether
Franks
or
Greeks
,
put
on
white
Turbants
when
they
go
out
of
the
City
,
as
I
have
had
occasion
to
see
above
fifty
times
.
The
Turks
have
of
late
conniv'd
at
those
Innovations
;
but
they
have
still
such
a
veneration
for
Green
,
that
the
Greeks
dare
not
presume
to
wear
it
:
nor
wou'd
it
be
safe
for
Franks
to
wear
Green
in
the
midst
of
Constantinople
,
tho'
I
have
often
seen
'em
make
bold
with
that
sacred
Colour
.
Since
the
Women
are
generally
invisible
,
they
are
not
oblig'd
to
observe
these
Marks
of
Distinction
;
and
the
only
difference
between
their
Habit
and
way
of
Dressing
,
and
that
of
the
Turks
,
is
that
they
must
,
as
well
as
the
Men
,
abstain
from
wearing
Green
.
Nor
is
there
a
less
Resemblance
between
'em
in
their
Manners
and
Customs
,
and
in
their
solitary
way
of
living
;
tho'
they
find
so
much
sweetness
in
the
Freedom
that
prevails
among
us
,
that
they
whose
Husbands
or
Fathers
have
frequent
Occasions
to
converse
with
Franks
,
are
easily
dispos'd
to
renounce
their
wonted
Severity
.
They
are
lovers
of
Pleasures
,
Dancing
,
and
magnificent
Habits
;
and
will
fix
a
Passion
upon
a
Man
whether
he
will
or
not
.
But
the
poor
Frank
that
suffers
himself
to
be
noos'd
,
must
resolve
either
to
be
Hen-peck'd
,
or
a
Cuckold
:
He
must
adore
his
Graecian
Spouse
;
he
must
furnish
her
with
the
richest
Habits
,
and
keep
a
numerous
Train
of
Slaves
to
attend
her
;
or
,
if
any
of
these
things
be
wanting
,
‛
Ware
Horns
.
For
the
Franks
have
an
excellent
Faculty
at
curing
a
handsome
Lady
of
the
grumbling
Disease
,
and
are
always
ready
to
do
a
kind
Office
to
a
Country-man's
Wife
.
The
Greek
Dances
are
extremely
pleasant
,
and
full
of
Mirth
.
They
are
of
two
kinds
:
The
first
is
a
sort
of
Country-Dance
or
Couranto
,
danc'd
by
Pairs
;
and
the
second
a
kind
of
Gavote
or
Branle
,
in
which
the
Men
and
Women
are
mingl'd
,
as
at
Passepied
in
France
;
only
you
must
hold
in
your
right-hand
the
Left-hand
of
your
Left-hand
Woman
,
and
in
your
Left
the
Right-hand
of
he●
that
is
on
your
Right-hand
.
The
Man
who
lead●
the
Dance
holds
the
Corner
of
a
Handkerchi●●
and
gives
the
other
to
his
Lady
,
that
he
may
hav●
room
enough
to
take
his
Measures
,
and
to
giv●
the
Dance
what
Figure
or
Turn
he
pleases
.
A●
first
they
begin
very
gravely
with
a
Saraband-Ste●
two
Steps
forwards
and
three
backwards
:
The●
mending
their
pace
by
degrees
,
they
begin
to
le●●
and
run
,
yet
still
observing
the
Rules
of
a
Harmo●
nious
Motion
;
so
that
the
Dance
becomes
very
Gay
and
Amorous
:
For
the
Women
leaping
on●
Step
forwards
,
draw
their
Bodies
backwards
with
a
certain
pretty
Turn
that
cannot
be
call'd
immodest
,
yet
gives
a
Man
occasion
to
think
of
something
more
than
he
sees
.
And
besides
,
the
Musick
contributes
very
much
to
the
pleasantness
of
their
Dances
,
for
their
Tunes
are
extremely
Brisk
and
Airy
.
The
Dancing
of
the
Greeks
P.
284
The
fittest
time
to
take
the
pleasure
of
viewing
their
way
of
Dancing
,
is
when
they
are
met
at
a
Wedding
;
for
on
such
Occasions
they
give
themselves
up
to
Joy
and
Pleasure
,
drinking
,
eating
,
and
sporting
,
and
indulging
themselves
in
all
manner
of
Diversions
.
The
next
Morning
the
young
Woman's
Relations
make
a
Visit
to
the
new-marry'd
Couple
,
and
examine
the
Bridegroom
concerning
his
Wife's
Virginity
:
Then
they
take
the
Bride
's
Bloody
Smock
,
and
expose
it
to
the
View
of
all
the
Company
,
as
if
it
were
some
rare
Curiosity
.
The
Jews
observe
the
same
Custom
at
the
Marriage
of
a
Maid
,
and
are
even
nicer
and
more
scrupulous
in
this
Point
than
the
Greeks
;
for
if
the
Bride's
Honesty
be
not
confirm'd
by
the
Blood
that
appears
on
her
Smock
,
her
Reputation
is
irrecoverably
lost
,
and
she
is
immediately
divorc'd
from
her
Husband
.
They
unanimously
agree
in
believing
that
this
is
an
infallible
Mark
of
Virginity
:
And
this
Opinion
is
so
generally
receiv'd
thro'
all
Asia
and
Africa
,
that
if
a
Man
shou'd
endeavour
to
contradict
it
,
he
wou'd
expose
himself
to
the
Laughter
and
Derision
of
all
that
shou'd
hear
him
.
The
Italians
are
also
persuaded
of
the
Certainty
of
this
Experiment
,
tho'
they
abstain
from
making
a
Shew
of
the
Bloody
Smock
,
for
fear
of
exposing
their
own
Shame
;
but
the
Husband
examines
his
Bride
very
narrowly
,
and
if
he
finds
her
not
such
as
he
expects
and
desires
,
't
is
in
vain
for
her
to
endeavour
by
the
most
solemn
Protestations
to
convince
him
of
her
Innocency
.
Nevertheless
this
way
of
trying
the
Chastity
of
a
Maid
is
esteem'd
uncertain
and
ridiculous
by
the
French
,
and
even
by
Chirurgeons
;
nor
can
I
reflect
without
a
certain
Wonder
and
Astonishment
on
this
Diversity
of
Opinions
concerning
a
Question
that
one
wou'd
think
might
have
been
fully
decided
by
so
many
repeated
Experiments
;
for
I
see
no
reason
to
believe
that
our
Country-Women
are
fram'd
after
another
manner
than
the
rest
of
their
Sex
.
But
leaving
this
Controversie
to
be
decided
by
others
who
are
better
acquainted
with
the
Works
of
Nature
,
I
shall
proceed
in
the
Account
I
promis'd
to
give
you
of
the
most
remarkable
Graecian
Customs
,
among
which
I
cannot
forbear
taking
notice
of
one
that
seems
to
be
peculiar
to
this
Nation
.
On
Easter-Day
,
and
during
the
three
following
Weeks
,
they
salute
one
another
with
three
Kisses
,
one
on
the
Mouth
,
and
one
on
each
Cheek
,
at
the
same
time
repeating
these
Words
,
Christos
anesti
,
that
is
,
Christ
is
risen
.
At
other
times
their
familiar
Salutation
is
the
same
with
that
which
is
us'd
by
the
Turks
:
But
when
they
design
to
shew
a
more
than
ordinary
Respect
to
a
Man
,
they
kiss
his
Hand
,
and
then
lay
it
upon
their
Heads
.
They
observe
the
same
Custom
when
they
receive
a
Present
,
if
it
be
not
either
too
heavy
or
bulky
:
For
this
Ceremony
of
laying
a
Man's
Hand
upon
their
Head
,
is
a
Mark
both
of
their
Respect
and
Gratitude
.
When
a
Woman
accompanies
her
Husband
in
a
Visit
to
a
Person
of
Quality
,
such
as
a
Consul
,
whether
they
come
to
treat
of
Bus'ness
,
or
only
out
of
Civility
,
she
stands
directly
behind
her
Husband
;
and
when
the
Visiter
brings
his
Daughters
along
with
him
,
they
place
themselves
at
one
another's
Back
behind
their
Mother
;
so
that
the
Husband
standing
in
the
Front
of
the
File
,
hides
all
his
Female
Train
;
and
when
they
intend
to
go
out
,
they
make
a
half-Turn
to
the
Right
,
and
the
Daughters
march
out
first
,
to
avoid
the
Indecency
of
appearing
in
a
Stranger
's
Presence
.
In
pursuance
of
the
Method
I
propos'd
to
follow
,
I
shall
in
the
next
place
consider
their
Religion
.
I
'm
oblig'd
to
my
Friend
,
the
Archbishop
,
for
the
following
Account
,
which
perhaps
will
give
you
a
clearer
Idea
of
this
Subject
than
you
can
draw
from
the
Relations
of
others
.
For
there
are
some
who
pretend
that
the
Greeks
are
only
Schismaticks
,
or
bare
Separatists
from
the
Romish
Church
;
whereas
others
stretch
the
Point
too
far
on
the
other
side
,
and
make
their
Differences
in
matter
of
Doctrine
appear
greater
and
more
irreconcilable
than
they
really
are
.
They
acknowledge
only
One
visible
Church
of
God
,
without
which
there
is
no
Salvation
,
unless
in
the
Case
of
a
sudden
Conversion
at
the
Hour
of
Death
.
They
believe
that
the
Apostles
instituted
five
Patriarchs
to
govern
the
Church
upon
the
Earth
,
who
were
seated
at
Rome
,
Alexandria
,
Constantinople
,
Antioch
,
and
Jerusalem
,
and
under
them
several
Archbishops
,
Bishops
,
and
inferiour
Pastors
.
All
the
Members
of
this
Hierarchy
have
a
Right
to
exercise
a
Spiritual
Jurisdiction
over
those
that
are
subordinate
to
'em
,
and
to
inflict
Ecclesiastical
Censures
.
But
the
Patriarchs
can
only
admonish
one
another
,
and
can
neither
be
punish'd
nor
depos'd
for
their
Offences
but
by
the
Sentence
of
a
General
Council
.
Yet
their
Power
does
not
extend
so
far
as
to
enable
'em
to
introduce
new
Laws
into
the
Church
,
and
they
wou'd
be
laught
at
if
they
shou'd
attempt
to
grant
Indulgencies
.
The
Bishop
of
Rome
is
the
first
of
the
Patriarchs
;
nor
do
any
of
the
rest
pretend
to
dispute
with
him
for
Precedency
:
But
they
refuse
to
submit
to
that
absolute
Power
he
has
assum'd
in
the
West
,
by
taking
Advantage
of
the
Superstition
and
Simplicity
of
the
People
,
and
the
Connivance
of
the
Princes
.
'T
is
plain
that
the
Greek
Bishops
had
Reason
to
refuse
their
Consent
to
the
Introduction
and
Establishment
of
a
Tyrannical
Power
in
the
Church
,
since
they
cou'd
not
but
foresee
that
it
wou'd
produce
very
fatal
and
pernicious
Consequences
:
And
yet
this
is
the
only
Cause
that
made
the
Pope
discharge
his
Thunders
against
'em
,
and
declare
'em
Schismaticks
;
thus
violently
breaking
the
sacred
Union
of
the
Church
,
for
the
Preservation
of
which
he
ought
to
have
spent
the
last
Drop
of
his
Blood
.
For
this
reason
the
Greeks
are
not
contented
with
returning
the
Charge
of
Schism
upon
the
Roman
Church
,
but
pretend
that
they
never
actually
separated
from
the
Communion
of
Rome
,
since
they
have
not
establish'd
a
Fifth
Patriarch
,
and
still
acknowledge
the
Pope
to
be
the
first
Bishop
in
the
World
,
and
that
therefore
they
cannot
with
the
least
Shadow
of
Justice
be
blam'd
for
the
Fault
of
another
,
or
said
to
separate
from
a
Church
which
has
violently
driven
'em
out
of
her
Communion
.
I
know
not
whether
this
is
the
Opinion
of
the
whole
Greek
Church
;
tho'
I
cannot
reasonably
decline
giving
Credit
to
a
Thing
which
I
have
heard
so
often
confirm'd
with
repeated
Protestations
by
the
Archbishop
of
Smyrna
,
who
is
esteem'd
one
of
the
most
learned
Doctors
of
that
Church
in
this
Age.
However
,
I
took
the
Liberty
to
ask
him
why
they
did
not
send
their
Bishops
to
the
last
Councils
that
were
held
in
the
West
,
in
which
all
their
Differences
might
have
been
amicably
terminated
.
He
reply'd
,
that
their
Absence
wou'd
be
easily
excus'd
by
those
who
consider
the
Severity
of
the
Yoak
under
which
they
groan
;
and
that
the
sending
of
Deputies
to
the
Councils
wou'd
have
given
a
terrible
Umbrage
to
the
Grand
Signior
,
who
wou'd
have
been
apt
to
suspect
that
these
Bishops
were
sent
to
contrive
a
Rebellion
against
him
,
and
to
plot
the
Ruine
of
his
Empire
;
and
to
deliver
himself
from
the
danger
of
a
Revolt
,
might
have
been
easily
persuaded
to
have
put
the
whole
Nation
under
Military
Execution
.
This
Answer
seem'd
so
reasonable
,
and
agreeable
to
the
Truth
,
that
I
was
oblig'd
to
acknowledge
my self
intirely
satisfy'd
.
Thus
I
have
given
a
short
Account
of
the
Occasion
of
the
fatal
Breach
that
divides
the
Eastern
and
Western
Churches
,
and
of
the
Reasons
alledg'd
by
the
Greeks
to
free
themselves
of
the
Imputation
of
Schism
.
I
shall
in
the
next
Place
examine
the
Points
of
Doctrine
in
which
they
differ
from
the
Romans
.
The
Difference
between
these
Churches
may
be
reduc'd
to
five
Articles
,
of
which
only
two
are
Fundamentals
:
For
tho'
the
other
three
are
of
considerable
Moment
,
they
wou'd
not
be
sufficient
to
excuse
a
Separation
.
The
first
is
the
Procession
of
the
Holy
Ghost
,
who
in
their
Opinion
proceeds
not
from
the
Son
,
but
only
from
the
Father
.
To
illustrate
and
confirm
this
Doctrine
,
the
Archbishop
told
me
,
that
the
Three
Persons
of
the
Trinity
were
only
distinguish'd
by
their
different
Operations
and
Attributes
;
That
the
Property
of
the
Father
was
to
beget
without
being
begotten
;
That
of
the
Son
,
to
be
eternally
begotten
,
without
begetting
;
and
that
of
the
Holy
Ghost
to
inspire
and
sanctifie
our
Hearts
.
I
reply'd
,
That
it
did
not
necessarily
follow
,
because
the
Son
was
begotten
,
that
he
cou'd
not
co-operate
with
the
Father
in
the
Procession
of
the
Holy
Ghost
:
But
he
wou'd
not
acknowledge
the
force
of
this
Reason
,
pretending
that
we
cou'd
not
ascribe
to
the
Son
the
Attribute
of
Generation
,
that
belongs
only
to
the
Father
,
without
overturning
the
Order
,
and
confounding
the
Persons
of
the
Trinity
.
Then
he
repeated
what
he
had
said
before
,
that
the
Persons
were
only
distinguish'd
by
their
Attributes
;
f●om
whence
he
concluded
that
the
latter
cou'd
not
be
confounded
without
confounding
the
former
.
And
for
a
farther
Confirmation
of
his
Opinion
,
he
shew'd
me
a
large
Volume
of
S.
Athanasius
,
printed
at
Venice
,
with
the
Latin
on
one
side
,
and
the
Greek
on
the
other
,
and
made
me
take
Notice
of
two
Passages
,
which
I
transcrib'd
,
but
have
unhappily
lost
the
Paper
.
However
,
tho'
I
cannot
at
present
call
to
Mind
the
very
Words
of
the
Author
.
I
remember
that
in
the
first
Passage
he
spoke
of
the
Holy
Ghost's
proceeding
from
the
Father
,
without
mentioning
the
Son
.
I
reply'd
,
that
the
Question
was
not
whether
the
Holy
Ghost
proceeded
from
the
Father
;
and
that
the
Author
whom
he
cited
did
not
deny
his
Procession
from
the
Son
.
But
I
was
oblig'd
to
acknowledge
that
the
same
Answer
wou'd
not
serve
to
elude
the
positive
Authority
of
another
Passage
which
he
shew'd
me
in
the
Nicene
Creed
,
where
't
is
expressly
said
,
à
solo
Patre
procedens
.
Thus
my
Mouth
was
stopt
on
this
Subject
,
as
well
as
on
the
former
;
and
I
must
leave
the
Decision
of
this
Controversie
to
those
whose
Profession
obliges
'em
to
search
into
these
Mysteries
.
The
second
difference
between
the
Romish
and
Greek
Churches
,
is
concerning
the
Doctrine
of
Purgatory
,
which
the
latter
expressly
denies
,
affirming
,
with
us
,
that
't
is
absolutely
injurious
to
the
Merit
and
Satisfaction
of
Christ
:
Yet
they
pretend
there
is
a
certain
Baptismal
Fire
,
through
which
every
one
must
pass
before
he
can
be
admitted
into
Paradise
.
They
believe
that
the
Souls
of
Just
Persons
at
their
Separation
from
the
Body
,
go
into
a
Third
Place
,
of
the
same
Nature
with
the
Romish
Limbo's
,
where
they
must
remain
till
the
Day
of
Judgment
,
at
which
Time
a
sudden
Fire
shall
dissolve
the
World
in
an
Instant
,
and
purifie
the
Souls
of
the
Righteous
,
who
after
their
final
Judgment
,
shall
be
receiv'd
into
everlasting
Glory
.
To
confirm
this
Doctrine
,
they
alledge
that
Passage
of
the
Scripture
which
speaks
of
the
Souls
that
rest
under
the
Altar
:
But
after
all
,
this
Opinion
seems
not
to
be
so
well
grounded
as
the
former
;
for
if
the
Dead
are
not
in
a
suffering
Condition
,
I
know
not
what
Reason
they
can
give
to
justifie
their
praying
for
'em
.
The
third
Point
is
the
Communion
under
both
kinds
:
for
they
give
the
Sacrament
to
the
People
in
a
Spoon
,
in
which
the
Bread
and
Wine
are
mixt
together
.
The
Fourth
is
concerning
Leaven'd
Bread
,
which
they
use
in
the
Consecration
of
the
Sacrament
.
The
Fifth
and
last
Point
in
which
they
differ
from
those
of
the
Romish
Persuasion
is
the
Celibacy
of
the
Clergy
:
For
a
simple
Priest
is
allow'd
to
marry
once
,
but
must
never
proceed
to
a
second
Marriage
.
The
Priests
wear
the
Violet-colour'd
Habit
of
a
Bishop
,
and
a
Cap
of
the
same
Colour
,
with
a
little
blue
Turbant
;
and
behind
their
Cap
there
hangs
a
piece
of
Cloth
of
the
same
Colour
about
half
a
Foot
long
and
broad
,
which
falls
back
on
their
Shoulders
.
Besides
these
Priests
,
there
are
certain
Religious
Persons
under
a
Vow
of
Chastity
;
and
out
of
their
Number
the
Bishops
,
and
even
the
Pastors
,
are
chosen
,
whom
they
call
Papa's
:
They
eat
no
Flesh
,
and
wear
long
Hair
,
without
ever
touching
it
with
Scissors
:
They
also
suffer
their
Beards
to
grow
without
shaving
or
clipping
'em
,
which
disfigures
their
Faces
,
and
makes
'em
seem
very
ugly
.
They
wear
a
large
black
Gown
or
Robe
,
not
much
different
from
our
Night-Gowns
;
only
their
Sleeves
are
wider
,
and
button'd
before
;
and
the
Neck
is
like
that
of
a
Cassock
.
Their
Caps
are
made
of
Felt
,
flat
beneath
like
the
Block
of
a
Hat
,
and
wou'd
be
very
deep
,
if
they
were
not
cut
before
;
so
that
the
whole
Face
appears
,
but
the
Ears
and
hinder-part
of
the
Head
are
cover'd
.
Over
this
they
wear
a
Kerchief
of
black
Serge
,
which
hangs
over
their
Shoulders
.
This
Habit
is
generally
us'd
by
all
religious
Persons
,
Pastors
,
Bishops
,
and
Archbishops
,
without
any
Mark
of
Distinction
;
only
the
Bishops
carry
in
their
Hands
a
Pastoral
Staff
of
Ebony
,
eight
Foot
long
,
with
an
Ivory
Ball
on
the
Top.
The
Bishops
are
not
usually
rich
,
but
they
are
no
less
respected
by
their
Clergy
than
our
French
Prelates
are
by
theirs
.
Their
Churches
are
built
after
the
manner
of
ours
,
but
without
the
least
appearance
of
Pomp
or
Grandeur
.
They
have
a
Quire
where
the
Priests
place
themselves
,
with
those
that
come
to
confess
;
and
a
Place
for
the
Church-Wardens
,
with
a
Crucifix
,
or
a
Saint
,
to
which
every
one
presents
an
Offering
.
The
Bishops
do
not
observe
so
much
State
as
in
France
;
for
my
Curiosity
having
one
Day
carry'd
me
to
see
'em
Officiate
,
the
Archbishop
rose
up
to
salute
me
,
and
made
me
sit
down
by
him
on
one
of
the
Seats
in
the
Quire
,
whither
a
Priest
conducted
me
by
his
Order
;
after
which
they
brought
me
some
Frankincense
,
as
they
do
to
all
Persons
of
Note
of
their
own
Nation
.
Their
Pontifical
Habit
is
so
singular
and
odly
contriv'd
,
that
't
wou'd
be
a
hard
Task
to
represent
it
distinctly
;
and
therefore
I
will
neither
undertake
the
Description
of
that
,
nor
of
their
Ceremonies
and
Rites
of
Worship
.
I
shall
only
add
,
that
when
they
enter
the
Church
,
they
take
some
Holy-Water
,
and
make
five
large
Signs
of
the
Cross
,
at
each
of
which
they
make
a
very
low
Bow
,
repeating
the
same
Ceremony
when
they
go
out
,
to
commemorate
the
five
Wounds
of
our
Saviour
.
It
has
been
so
positively
asserted
by
so
many
celebrated
Divines
,
that
the
Doctrine
of
Transubstantiation
is
not
acknowledg'd
by
the
Greek
Church
,
that
I
dare
hardly
venture
to
contradict
'em
.
However
,
since
neither
Interest
not
Authority
ought
to
deterr
us
from
owning
the
Truth
,
I
'm
resolv'd
at
all
Adventures
to
undeceive
you
of
so
vulgar
an
Error
.
'T
is
plain
that
the
Authors
of
those
Relations
,
on
whose
Credit
that
Opinion
is
grounded
,
were
either
deceiv'd
themselves
,
or
intended
to
deceive
their
Readers
;
unless
perhaps
to
soften
the
harshness
of
that
Censure
you
had
rather
believe
that
they
speak
of
some
obscure
Sect
,
which
is
not
known
in
thi●
Countrey
:
For
I
can
assure
you
that
the
Greeks
at
Constantinople
and
Smyrna
are
as
firmly
perswaded
of
the
truth
of
that
Doctrine
as
the
most
zealous
Romanists
;
and
the
only
reason
why
they
do
not
kneel
at
the
Elevation
of
the
Host
,
is
because
their
manner
of
Adoration
is
different
from
ours
.
Nor
do
they
worship
the
Sacrament
less
devoutly
by
bowing
their
Body
,
and
smiting
their
Breast
,
tho'
they
stand
all
the
while
on
their
Feet
,
than
we
do
by
prostrating
our selves
on
the
Ground
;
and
therefore
we
ought
rather
to
consider
the
Intention
of
their
Mind
than
the
Posture
of
their
Body
.
But
this
is
not
all
;
for
they
have
a
Custom
which
may
serve
for
a
convincing
Proof
of
their
Belief
of
that
Opinion
.
On
Good-Friday
they
walk
in
Procession
to
the
French
Church
,
to
adore
the
Sacrament
which
is
expos'd
there
,
and
even
pay
five
hundred
Piasters
to
the
Turks
that
they
may
be
suffer'd
to
perform
their
Devotions
there
on
that
Occasion
:
So
true
it
is
that
they
are
not
willing
to
be
separated
from
the
Church
of
Rome
.
You
may
depend
upon
the
Certainty
of
this
Story
;
for
I
can
assure
you
of
the
Truth
of
it
on
the
Faith
of
an
Eye-Witness
.
They
have
a
great
Number
of
Images
;
and
their
Devotion
to
'em
is
not
at
all
inferior
to
that
which
prevails
in
the
Church
of
Rome
.
But
I
must
confess
there
is
a
great
Difference
in
the
Structure
and
Workmanship
of
the
Images
;
for
whereas
in
our
Country
they
may
,
for
the
most
part
,
be
reckon'd
so
many
Master-pieces
of
Art
,
whether
we
consider
the
Regularity
of
the
Design
,
the
Disposition
of
the
Lights
and
Shades
,
or
the
Beauty
of
the
Colours
.
The
Greeks
are
of
Opinion
,
and
scruple
not
to
say
,
that
the
Pictures
of
the
Saints
,
as
they
are
represented
in
the
Roman
Churches
are
more
proper
to
raise
Criminal
Desires
,
than
to
inspire
the
Minds
of
the
Spectators
with
Devotion
.
And
therefore
to
avoid
the
dangerous
Consequences
of
that
Abuse
,
they
confine
themselves
to
a
certain
Antick
way
of
Painting
,
which
is
extremely
unnatural
,
especially
in
their
Figures
of
Virgins
,
who
are
almost
all
represented
black
,
and
so
muffled
up
in
Kerchiefs
and
Gowns
,
that
you
can
scarce
distinguish
their
Faces
.
And
their
Painters
are
so
ignorant
,
and
so
little
acquainted
with
the
Beauties
of
the
Art
they
profess
,
that
they
cannot
so
much
as
copy
a
Head
.
Nor
am
I
at
all
surpriz'd
at
the
Unskillfulness
of
these
pretended
Artists
;
for
their
Method
is
directly
opposite
to
that
of
our
Painters
:
First
they
lay
on
the
Shades
,
and
design
the
entire
Figure
,
after
which
they
proceed
to
the
Disposition
of
the
Light
;
which
is
the
most
preposterous
Method
cou'd
be
imagin'd
.
The
Armenians
are
not
so
scrupulous
in
this
Point
,
tho'
they
profess
almost
the
same
Articles
of
Faith
;
for
they
make
use
of
the
modern
way
of
Painting
;
and
there
is
at
present
on
their
High
Altar
an
Image
of
the
Virgin
,
made
by
a
French-man
,
which
shews
so
much
of
her
Breasts
that
I
shou'd
be
almost
Jealous
if
my
Mistress
were
painted
after
that
Manner
.
Nevertheless
you
must
not
suspect
them
of
Libertinism
;
for
I
never
heard
of
any
Religious
Order
,
except
the
Monks
of
Trape
,
that
observe
such
mortifying
Fasts
.
They
keep
four
Lents
,
which
lasts
one
half
of
the
Year
,
like
those
that
are
observ'd
by
the
Greeks
:
.
But
the
Armen●●ns
do
not
allow
themselves
so
much
Liberty
as
the
〈◊〉
of
their
Fellow
Christians
;
for
they
abstain
from
eating
Flesh
,
Fish
,
and
even
Shell-Fish
,
Butter
,
Milk
,
Cheese
,
and
every
thing
that
has
or
ever
had
Life
;
which
may
be
justly
reckon'd
a
very
severe
piece
of
Mortification
.
Their
Bishop
has
put
himself
under
the
Protection
of
France
,
to
deliver
himself
from
the
insupportable
Exactions
of
the
Turks
;
and
't
is
but
a
very
little
while
ago
since
he
was
freed
from
Prison
,
where
he
had
lain
six
Months
.
He
is
a
very
honest
and
civil
Person
,
and
diligent
in
performing
the
Duties
of
his
Function
.
His
Habit
is
almost
the
same
with
that
of
the
Greek
Bishop
,
only
he
wears
a
Hood
or
Cawle
at
the
Neck
of
his
Gown
,
and
carries
in
his
Hand
a
Cross
,
like
that
which
is
us'd
by
the
Roman
Bishops
,
only
't
is
made
of
Wood.
This
puts
me
in
Mind
of
what
a
certain
Author
said
concerning
the
Ancients
,
That
they
were
Golden
Bishops
tho'
they
wore
Wooden
Crosses
;
and
I
may
safely
venture
to
apply
that
Saying
to
this
Prelate
.
To
return
to
the
Greeks
;
I
had
almost
forgot
to
take
Notice
of
one
of
their
Opinions
in
which
they
differ
from
those
of
the
Romish
Persuasion
.
You
have
doubtless
observ'd
that
the
Romanists
have
an
extreme
Veneration
for
those
Persons
whose
Bodies
remain
free
from
Putrefaction
after
their
Death
;
and
that
the
Incorruption
of
the
Body
is
reckon'd
a
convincing
Mark
of
the
Holiness
of
the
Deceas'd
,
and
is
one
of
the
most
considerable
Proofs
that
can
be
offer'd
for
the
Canonization
of
the
Saint
;
whereas
the
Greeks
pretend
that
't
is
only
an
Effect
of
Excommunication
;
and
when
they
find
a
Body
in
that
Condition
,
they
never
leave
praying
for
the
Soul
of
the
dead
Person
,
till
his
Body
be
putrefy'd
and
corrupted
.
The
Interrment
of
dead
Bodies
is
perform'd
with
almost
the
same
Ceremonies
that
are
observ'd
in
the
Church
of
Rome
.
All
the
Clergy
meet
together
,
and
sing
the
de
profundis
,
and
Prayers
for
the
Soul
of
the
Deceas'd
.
Several
Persons
march
before
with
lighted
Candles
,
after
whom
the
Body
is
carry'd
in
an
open
Coffin
,
drest
in
its
finest
Clothes
,
with
a
little
Cotton
in
its
Mouth
;
so
that
oftentimes
the
Person
seems
to
be
alive
.
Then
comes
the
Husband
or
Wife
,
accompany'd
with
the
Children
and
Slaves
of
the
Deceas'd
,
all
bellowing
out
their
Grief
in
so
dismal
and
terrible
a
Manner
,
that
one
wou'd
conclude
they
thought
themselves
irrecoverably
ruin'd
.
The
Women
especially
signalize
their
Love
by
all
the
wildest
Marks
of
Despair
,
tossing
their
Bodies
so
furiously
from
side
to
side
,
that
they
wou'd
certainly
break
their
Necks
if
they
were
not
supported
by
two
Persons
who
are
appointed
to
attend
'em
.
Their
usual
Song
is
Hai
agamimont
,
hai
mathiamont
;
Ab
my
Eyes
!
ah
my
Love
!
And
the
Slaves
echo
back
the
howling
Musick
with
so
hideous
a
Noise
,
that
one
wou'd
think
they
design'd
to
scare
the
Devil
.
Those
who
have
not
a
sufficient
Number
of
Slaves
to
make
a
Noise
sutable
to
the
Quality
of
the
Deceas'd
,
may
supply
that
Defect
by
hiring
Weeping-Women
,
who
for
an
Jsallote
,
which
is
worth
about
forty
Pence
,
howl
and
cry
,
as
if
they
were
acted
by
the
most
furious
Transports
of
Rage
and
Despair
.
'T
is
true
,
the
Frace
is
too
gross
and
visible
;
for
there
is
something
so
moving
in
true
Sorrow
that
it
can
never
be
counterfeited
;
neither
is
it
possible
for
the
most
dextrous
Mimick
to
imitate
the
tender
Motions
of
Nature
.
And
even
when
those
pretended
Mourners
seem
to
be
transported
with
Fury
and
Despair
,
running
about
like
Mad-Women
,
with
dishevell'd
Hair
,
the
Artifice
is
easily
discernible
.
And
particularly
I
observ'd
,
that
when
they
pretend
to
tear
their
Hair
,
they
hold
it
fast
with
one
Hand
near
the
Roots
,
and
then
pull
as
hard
as
they
can
with
the
other
.
To
co●clude
,
an
unconcern'd
Spectator
wou'd
be
tempted
to
imagine
that
all
this
Mummery
is
acted
in
derision
to
the
deceas'd
;
for
as
soon
as
he
is
interr'd
,
they
make
a
Feast
on
his
Grave
at
his
own
Charge
;
and
his
Wife
and
Children
take
care
that
nothing
be
wanting
to
the
Company
,
who
eat
and
drink
and
laugh
,
as
if
they
were
carousing
in
a
Tipling
House
.
This
is
certainly
a
very
extravagant
way
of
expressing
their
Affection
to
their
dead
Friends
;
nor
cou'd
they
treat
a
Man
worse
whose
Memory
they
design'd
to
affront
.
I
have
also
had
occasion
to
see
the
Funeral
Solemnities
of
the
Jews
,
which
in
my
Opinion
are
less
inconsistent
with
the
Rules
of
Decency
;
for
tho'
they
use
those
Affected
Howlings
as
well
as
the
Greeks
,
their
Design
is
to
Mourn
and
not
to
Feast
.
Among
the
Ceremonies
that
are
us'd
by
the
Iews
at
the
Death
of
their
Relations
,
I
took
notice
of
one
which
seems
to
be
very
Troublesome
and
Inconvenient
,
I
mean
their
keeping
of
the
Dead
Body
Three
Days
unbury'd
:
And
I
leave
you
to
judge
what
a
sad
Companion
that
must
be
to
the
Widow
and
Children
,
who
are
oblig'd
to
weep
without
Intermission
till
the
Body
be
interr'd
.
Since
the
Description
of
the
Greekish
Funerals
has
given
me
an
Occasion
to
mention
the
Jews
,
I
shall
conclude
this
Letter
with
a
brief
Account
of
that
Nation
.
'T
wou'd
be
needless
to
entertain
you
with
an
Abridgement
of
their
Ancient
History
,
and
therefore
I
shall
only
observe
,
that
after
the
Romans
became
Masters
of
Palestine
,
these
unhappy
Fugitives
were
dispers'd
,
and
scatter'd
thro'
the
whole
World
,
and
have
liv'd
ever
since
like
hated
Vagabonds
,
without
King
or
Head
,
expecting
the
Messiah
with
an
Impatience
that
has
frequently
made
'em
give
Credit
to
Impostors
.
About
Thirty
Years
ago
there
arose
a
false
Prophet
or
Messiah
in
this
Country
,
call'd
Sabatai
Sevi
,
who
was
very
learned
,
and
had
diligently
study'd
the
Cabala
,
by
which
means
,
't
was
thought
,
he
came
to
the
Knowledge
of
certain
Magical
Secrets
,
which
he
afterwards
made
Use
of
to
abuse
the
Credulity
of
his
Followers
.
I
have
heard
a
Thousand
Stories
of
him
,
but
shall
content
my self
with
telling
you
that
he
manag'd
the
Cheat
with
so
much
De●terity
and
Success
,
that
he
was
follow'd
by
a
great
Multitude
of
People
,
and
began
to
exercise
so
great
an
Authority
over
the
Jews
,
that
the
Grand
Signior
himself
,
growing
jealous
of
his
Power
and
Credit
,
order'd
him
to
be
apprehended
,
and
brought
in
Chains
to
Constantinople
,
where
this
pretended
Messiah
turn'd
Turk
to
save
his
Life
.
The
Scandal
of
this
Example
,
which
ought
to
have
taught
the
Jews
more
Caution
for
the
future
,
cou'd
not
keep
'em
from
falling
not
long
after
into
another
Error
of
the
same
Nature
.
You
must
know
that
during
the
Feast
of
Tabernacles
,
the
young
Women
of
that
Nation
are
oblig'd
to
lie
abroad
under
Tents
in
a
place
appointed
for
that
purpose
;
and
they
have
an
old
Tradition
that
the
Messiah
shall
be
conceiv'd
in
the
Womb
of
a
Virgin
during
that
Festival
.
Now
it
happen'd
that
a
certain
Maid
,
who
it
seems
was
weary
of
that
Denomination
,
resolv'd
to
make
use
of
so
favourable
an
Opportunity
of
tasting
the
forbidden
Delight
,
and
to
conceal
her
Fault
,
spread
abroad
a
Report
that
God
came
to
visit
her
every
Night
,
and
that
she
was
to
be
the
Mother
of
the
Messiah
.
These
acceptable
News
were
receiv'd
with
Joy
by
the
whole
Synagogue
,
who
appointed
several
Days
of
Solemn
Thanksgiving
to
be
kept
with
all
imaginable
Secresie
,
for
fear
of
offending
the
Turks
.
But
their
Joy
was
at
last
turn'd
into
Shame
and
Confusion
,
when
instead
of
their
expected
Deliverer
,
the
pretended
Virgin
was
brought
to
B●d
of
a
Daughter
.
The
Levantine
Jews
are
extremely
Cunning
and
Deceitful
,
and
so
dextrous
in
the
Art
of
Wheedling
,
that
those
who
deal
with
'em
ought
to
be
always
upon
their
Guard
.
Cheating
is
the
Trade
by
which
they
live
,
as
others
do
by
Labour
or
Traffick
;
and
't
is
usually
said
here
,
that
a
Jew
never
eats
his
Breakfast
till
he
has
cheated
a
Christian
.
However
,
't
is
certain
that
he
who
trusts
'em
must
either
betray
his
Ignorance
or
Imprudence
;
for
by
a
modest
Computation
,
I
may
venture
to
assure
you
,
that
among
Twenty
Jews
there
are
always
Nineteen
Knaves
.
There
cannot
be
a
more
convincing
Argument
to
prove
that
Religion
is
not
always
attended
with
Honesty
;
for
if
it
were
,
the
Jews
wou'd
be
the
honestest
Men
in
the
World
.
They
observe
the
Precepts
of
their
Law
with
an
incredible
exactness
;
and
wou'd
not
do
the
least
Work
on
the
Sabbath
to
prevent
the
Ruine
of
the
Universe
.
'T
is
not
yet
a
Fortnight
since
we
had
an
eminent
Instance
of
the
Power
of
Superstition
,
on
occasion
of
a
Fire
which
broke
forth
in
the
Jews
Quarter
in
this
City
on
the
Sabbath
Day
;
for
they
suffer'd
it
to
consume
their
Houses
without
endeavouring
to
quench
it
;
and
one
among
the
rest
seeing
his
Child
just
ready
to
be
devour'd
by
the
Flames
,
contented
himself
with
tearing
his
Hair
,
instead
of
breaking
the
Window
of
his
House
,
tho'
there
was
no
other
Way
to
save
the
Life
of
his
miserable
Infant
,
which
wou'd
have
been
certainly
burnt
alive
,
if
it
had
not
been
seasonably
rescu'd
by
some
Greeks
,
whose
Compassion
drew
'em
to
its
Assistance
.
This
Fire
made
a
prodigious
Havock
,
for
it
destroy'd
above
a
Hundred
Houses
,
in
the
greatest
part
of
which
there
were
Warehouses
.
The
Jews
are
no
less
jealous
of
their
Wives
than
the
Turks
,
and
are
very
careful
in
keeping
'em
under
a
close
Confinement
.
'T
is
true
,
they
are
permitted
to
see
and
visit
one
another
;
but
if
a
Woman
shou'd
walk
a
Quarter
of
a
League
out
of
the
City
without
her
Husband
or
Brother
,
she
wou'd
infallibly
be
divorc'd
.
They
wear
a
large
Gown
of
black
Cloth
,
made
almost
like
that
of
the
Papa's
;
and
their
Shooes
are
of
a
Violet
Colour
.
Their
Caps
are
of
Felt
,
cover'd
with
Violet-colour'd
Cloth
,
and
resemble
a
long
Block
of
a
Hat
.
Round
their
Caps
they
tye
a
small
strip'd
or
Violet-colour'd
Turbant
,
which
they
call
a
Tandour
.
They
are
oblig'd
to
pay
the
Carache
as
well
as
the
Greeks
,
and
are
treated
with
more
scorn
and
Contempt
:
But
they
are
naturally
of
so
intrigueing
a
Temper
,
that
they
thrust
themselves
into
all
sorts
to
Bus'ness
,
and
are
at
present
the
only
Managers
of
Trade
;
for
there
are
no
other
Brokers
in
the
Levant
.
I
know
not
whether
you
will
complain
of
the
unusual
Length
of
this
Letter
;
but
I
can
assure
you
that
the
writing
of
it
has
fatigu'd
me
so
extremely
,
that
,
tho'
I
had
not
finish'd
my
Subject
,
I
shou'd
have
been
forc'd
to
break
off
abruptly
.
I
am
,
SIR
,
Your
,
&c.
Smyrna
,
July
,
1692.
LETTER
XXIII
.
SIR
,
JUst
now
I
'm
inform'd
that
five
Barbary
Vessels
anchor'd
this
Morning
at
Fosche
,
which
is
a
little
Harbour
at
the
Mouth
of
the
Gulph
.
If
this
be
true
,
we
must
expect
to
see
the
Streets
always
full
of
those
insolent
Scoundrels
,
from
whom
the
Franks
receive
a
Visit
once
every
Year
,
tho'
they
wou'd
gladly
dispence
with
so
troublesome
a
piece
of
Civility
.
I
have
not
yet
had
Experience
of
their
Deportment
;
but
the
Accounts
I
have
receiv'd
from
others
have
extremely
abated
my
natural
Curiosity
to
be
acquainted
with
the
Customs
of
Strangers
:
And
I
had
much
rather
hear
a
Description
than
be
an
Eye-Witness
of
the
Disorders
they
committed
in
this
City
,
which
are
still
so
fresh
in
the
Memory
of
the
People
,
that
they
hardly
talk
of
any
thing
else
.
I
know
not
whether
you
cou'd
hear
without
Disturbance
a
Relalation
of
those
Abuses
,
if
you
were
in
a
place
where
you
might
shortly
expect
to
see
'em
repeated
:
But
since
you
are
at
so
great
a
Distance
from
the
Scene
of
the
Tragedy
,
you
may
venture
to
read
it
without
fearing
to
be
made
a
Spectator
of
it
:
And
besides
,
there
can
be
nothing
more
proper
to
give
you
a
clear
Idea
of
the
Weakness
of
the
Turkish
Government
.
About
a
Year
ago
the
same
Barbary
Ships
touch'd
at
the
Port
where
they
have
now
cast
Anchor
,
which
is
only
four
or
five
Leagues
distant
from
this
place
;
and
since
these
Sea-Monsters
are
not
restrain'd
by
the
least
shadow
of
Discipline
,
one
half
of
'em
was
perpetually
in
the
City
.
These
pretended
Soldiers
are
a
meer
Rabble
of
Murderers
,
Robbers
,
and
the
most
desperate
Villains
,
who
,
to
avoid
the
just
Punishment
of
their
Crimes
,
flock
from
all
parts
of
Africk
to
the
Sea-Coast
,
where
they
find
on
board
the
Ships
,
a
Sanctuary
that
secures
'em
from
being
made
accountable
for
their
past
Offences
,
and
are
at
the
same
time
privileg'd
to
re-act
their
former
Barbarities
without
controul
;
so
that
they
are
equally
dreaded
by
the
Turks
,
Greeks
,
and
Franks
,
tho'
the
Storm
falls
heaviest
upon
the
last
,
especially
since
the
Bombarding
of
Algiers
,
which
has
inspir'd
'em
with
a
horrible
Aversion
against
the
French
,
and
against
all
other
Franks
for
their
sake
.
Two
or
three
Days
after
their
Landing
,
two
of
'em
drinking
in
a
Tipling-House
pick'd
a
Quarrel
with
a
Frenchman
,
who
seeing
'em
advance
towards
him
with
naked
Poniards
,
discharg'd
his
Pistol
at
'em
,
and
then
made
his
Escape
.
Immediately
the
two
Barbarianss
one
of
whom
had
receiv'd
a
slight
Wound
by
the
Shot
,
being
reinforc'd
by
some
of
their
Fellows
,
ran
thro'
the
Streets
,
swearing
like
enrag'd
Furies
,
and
threatning
to
murder
all
the
French
without
exception
.
In
the
Heat
of
their
Rage
they
met
three
Mariners
of
Provence
coming
out
of
a
Barber's
Shop
,
whom
they
instantly
assaulted
,
and
dragg'd
by
the
Hair
along
the
Street
to
the
Bazar
,
where
they
butcher'd
'em
with
their
Poniards
in
a
most
barbarous
manner
.
The
French
Consul
being
alarm'd
at
the
News
,
commanded
those
of
his
Nation
to
keep
within
Doors
all
that
Day
,
and
sent
for
Soldiers
and
Arms
from
on
board
the
Ships
that
were
in
the
Port
,
to
secure
him
from
the
Insolency
of
the
incens'd
Rabble
.
Next
Morning
he
order'd
forty
Men
,
arm'd
with
Carabines
and
Pistols
,
to
bring
off
the
Bodies
of
the
three
Seamen
that
had
lain
all
the
while
in
the
Street
.
As
soon
as
the
Barbaria●s
heard
of
their
Design
,
they
resolv'd
to
oppose
the
Execution
of
it
;
but
since
they
had
no
Fire-Arms
,
and
are
extremely
afraid
of
Shot
,
they
fled
after
the
first
Discharge
,
and
left
the
Bodies
to
the
French
,
who
carry'd
'em
off
without
any
Opposition
.
In
the
mean
time
the
Consul
had
sent
a
Message
to
the
other
two
Consuls
of
England
and
Holland
,
to
beg
their
Assistance
in
the
Common
Cause
of
the
Three
Nations
:
But
these
Gentlemen
did
not
think
fit
to
irritate
an
enrag'd
Mobb
that
had
not
positively
declar'd
against
any
other
Nation
but
the
French
.
And
it
appear'd
by
the
Event
,
that
they
acted
wisely
in
so
nice
a
Juncture
;
for
the
Neutrality
they
observ'd
,
and
the
Care
they
took
not
to
kindle
the
Fury
of
the
Barbarians
by
appearing
too
much
in
the
Streets
,
had
so
good
an
Effect
,
that
the
English
and
Dutch
receiv'd
not
the
least
Injury
during
the
Tumult
,
except
some
affronting
Words
.
The
French
Consul
being
disappointed
of
the
Assistance
he
expected
from
the
two
Nations
,
and
not
knowing
to
what
Saint
he
shou'd
make
h●s
next
Address
,
resolv'd
at
last
to
demand
Protection
from
the
Cadi
.
Immediately
he
sent
two
Merchants
,
and
as
many
Interpreters
to
complain
to
that
Officer
of
the
Injuries
he
had
receiv'd
from
the
Barbarians
,
and
to
assure
him
that
if
the
Tumult
were
not
quickly
appeas'd
,
he
wou●d
seek
Redress
at
the
Port
,
and
in
the
mean
time
wou'd
Arm
those
of
his
Nation
in
their
own
Defence
.
But
instead
of
the
Aid
he
expected
,
he
had
the
Mortification
to
receive
only
a
faint
Excuse
;
for
the
most
favourable
Answer
his
Messengers
cou'd
obtain
from
the
Cadi
was
,
that
he
had
not
Forces
sufficient
to
suppress
the
seditious
Multitude
;
and
that
the
best
Advice
he
cou'd
give
his
Master
,
was
to
defend
himself
as
well
as
he
cou'd
.
The
Consul
perceiving
that
this
was
in
effect
an
absolute
Denial
,
dispatch'd
an
Express
to
Monsieur
de
Chasteauneuf
,
to
acquaint
him
with
the
extreme
Danger
that
threaten'd
the
Nation
,
and
to
intreat
him
to
use
his
Int'rest
at
the
Port
for
the
procuring
a
Grand
Mandamus
against
the
Barbarians
.
Before
I
proceed
farther
,
't
will
not
be
improper
to
inform
you
,
that
a
Grand
Mandamus
is
an
express
Order
from
the
Sultan
,
which
he
never
grants
but
in
Cases
of
great
Necessity
,
and
of
the
highest
Importance
.
Those
who
refuse
to
submit
to
it
are
declar'd
Rebels
against
the
Grand
Signior
;
and
the
Law
ordains
that
such
Persons
shall
be
treated
as
Infidels
:
So
that
these
Orders
may
be
call'd
the
Grand
Signior's
Thunders
;
as
Excommunications
are
said
to
be
the
Thunders
of
the
Vatican
.
The
Consul
waited
with
an
extreme
Impatience
for
the
Return
of
his
Express
,
and
during
the
space
of
three
Weeks
which
that
Messenger
spent
in
his
Journey
,
and
in
dispatching
his
Bus'ness
,
the
French
were
forc'd
to
suffer
the
Insolency
of
the
Barbarians
,
whose
Fury
was
so
far
from
being
appeas'd
,
that
it
wanted
little
of
its
first
impetuosity
;
for
they
continu'd
still
to
beat
and
affront
all
the
Frenchmen
that
came
in
their
Way
.
Nor
cou'd
the
Greeks
and
Jews
escape
their
Rage
,
for
as
many
of
'em
as
were
found
with
yellow
Babouches
,
long
Breeches
,
or
any
sort
of
Habit
or
Ornament
prohibited
by
Law
,
were
sure
of
the
Bastinado
;
these
Villains
pretending
that
they
wou'd
restore
Justice
in
the
City
,
and
reform
the
Abuses
that
had
crept
into
the
Government
.
One
Day
they
happen'd
to
meet
an
old
Drogue-man
with
a
Chacsir
,
after
the
Turkish
Fashion
,
and
immediately
ask'd
him
by
what
Authority
he
wore
that
Habit
:
The
poor
Man
reply'd
,
that
he
wore
it
as
Interpreter
of
France
;
but
this
Answer
instead
of
pacifying
'em
,
irritated
'em
so
extremely
,
that
after
a
severe
Beating
they
took
away
his
Chacsir
,
and
sent
him
home
with
a
bare
Breech
.
At
last
the
Grand
Mandamus
came
,
forbidding
the
Barbarians
under
pain
of
Rebellion
to
molest
the
French
;
and
ordaining
the
Cadi
,
and
all
the
Inhabitants
of
Smyrna
,
to
shut
up
their
Shops
,
and
be
ready
to
assist
the
French
in
case
of
any
Tumult
or
Disturbance
.
The
Consul
was
extremely
proud
of
this
Order
,
and
after
he
had
notify'd
it
to
the
Cadi
,
thought
himself
as
secure
as
if
he
had
obtain'd
a
strong
Reinforcement
:
But
the
Barbarians
,
who
had
receiv'd
Advice
of
it
from
the
Cadi
,
instead
of
submitting
to
the
Sultan's
Command
,
began
to
Rage
with
more
Violence
than
before
.
The
first
who
felt
the
Fury
of
this
new
Storm
,
were
a
Chirurgeon
and
another
Frenchman
,
who
receiv'd
three
Wounds
with
a
Poniard
.
Afterwards
they
besieg'd
the
Consul's
House
,
and
wou'd
have
set
Fire
to
it
,
if
they
had
not
been
prevented
by
fifteen
or
twenty
Janisaries
,
whom
he
had
call'd
to
his
Assistance
.
The
Cadi
seem'd
to
be
an
unconcern'd
Spectator
of
all
these
Disorders
;
for
when
the
Consul
sent
to
require
his
Assistance
,
according
to
the
Order
he
had
receiv'd
from
the
Port
,
he
answer'd
him
in
plain
Terms
,
that
he
neither
wou'd
nor
durst
incense
the
Barbarians
,
and
that
he
was
resolv'd
to
expect
the
Event
without
interposing
in
other
Mens
Affairs
.
In
the
mean
time
the
Inhabitants
of
the
City
shut
up
their
Shops
,
according
to
the
Grand
Signior's
Order
;
but
they
were
so
far
from
assisting
the
French
,
that
they
had
not
the
Courage
to
appear
in
the
Streets
:
And
if
by
good
Fortune
the
Captain
Bassa
had
not
arriv'd
with
seven
Galleys
,
't
is
hard
to
divine
what
might
have
been
the
issue
of
these
Disturbances
.
You
may
easily
conclude
,
that
our
Country-men
,
after
such
late
and
fatal
Experience
of
the
Barbarity
of
those
Infidels
,
are
extremely
alarm'd
at
the
News
of
their
Arrival
:
And
their
Fears
are
encreas'd
by
the
Advice
they
have
receiv'd
from
Constantinople
,
that
there
were
two
Frenchmen
murder●d
by
'em
there
in
their
own
Houses
.
'T
is
true
,
the
two
Protestant
Nations
have
hitherto
suffer'd
nothing
but
Words
;
but
who
can
secure
'em
from
the
Danger
of
being
made
Sharers
in
the
common
Calamity
,
if
another
Tumult
shou'd
happen
.
'T
is
impossible
to
reflect
without
Horror
on
their
manner
of
attacking
a
Christian
that
has
the
Misfortune
to
come
in
their
way
.
As
soon
as
they
perceive
him
at
a
Distance
,
they
draw
their
Poniards
,
and
with
a
Howling
and
Wolvish
Noise
,
run
bellowing
out
these
Words
,
alla
,
alla
,
alla
,
in
the
same
Tone
they
use
when
they
board
a
Ship
.
In
such
Cases
't
is
in
vain
to
think
of
Resistance
;
and
as
soon
as
a
Man
sees
'em
coming
,
he
must
place
his
only
Confidence
in
the
Swiftness
of
his
Legs
;
For
if
a
Turk
shou'd
offer
to
stop
'em
,
they
wou'd
infallibly
turn
their
Poniards
against
him
.
These
are
the
fatal
and
inevitable
Consequences
of
the
Weakness
of
the
Turkish
Government
:
And
the
Grand
Signior
must
be
a
tame
Spectator
of
the
Insolency
of
three
or
four
Hundred
Scoundrels
,
(
for
there
were
no
more
of
'em
,
)
and
patiently
suffer
'em
to
domineer
over
a
great
City
,
slight
his
Grand
Mandamus's
,
and
assassinate
almost
under
his
Whiskers
those
whom
he
had
taken
into
his
Protection
in
so
particular
a
manner
.
The
present
French
Consul
has
been
very
unfortunate
in
the
Discharge
of
his
Office
.
He
has
been
twice
affronted
by
the
Barbarians
;
and
besides
,
he
has
a
very
small
Share
in
the
Ambassador's
Friendship
,
and
is
yet
less
belov'd
by
the
Nation
,
who
take
all
Occasions
to
mortifie
him
.
T'other
Day
there
happen'd
a
Quarrel
between
him
and
the
Capuchins
,
who
are
Curates
of
the
Parish
,
on
the
Occasion
of
the
Election
of
a
Grand-Vicar
.
For
the
Consul
was
persuaded
by
the
Jesuites
to
promote
one
whom
they
recommended
to
him
,
and
resolv'd
to
make
him
Officiate
on
S.
Lewis's
Day
,
and
pronounce
that
Saint's
Panegyrick
.
The
Capuchins
wou'd
not
own
the
new
Vicar
,
and
were
so
incens'd
against
the
Consul
,
that
they
threaten'd
to
shut
the
Doors
of
their
Church
;
but
perceiving
that
he
was
resolv'd
to
break
'em
open
,
they
were
unwilling
to
expose
themselves
to
so
publick
an
Affront
,
and
contented
themselves
with
giving
out
that
they
wou'd
Excommunicate
the
Consul
,
who
laugh'd
at
their
Anger
,
and
told
'em
in
a
deriding
manner
,
that
since
nothing
less
than
Excommunication
wou'd
satisfie
'em
,
he
wou'd
let
'em
know
that
he
cou'd
Excommunicate
as
well
as
they
,
and
that
they
shou'd
find
his
Sentences
more
effectual
than
theirs
were
wont
to
be
.
This
Consul
is
absolutely
govern'd
by
the
Jesuites
,
and
so
intirely
devoted
to
'em
,
that
he
can't
live
without
'em
.
Among
the
Marks
of
his
Affection
to
that
Order
,
I
may
reckon
the
late
splendid
Entertainment
which
he
gave
to
Father
Grimaldy
,
who
pass'd
by
this
Place
in
his
Return
from
China
,
from
whence
he
was
sent
with
the
Character
of
an
Envoy
to
the
French
King
.
This
Jesuit
has
a
strange
Ambition
to
appear
Great
,
and
talks
perpetually
of
the
Honours
he
receives
from
the
King
of
China
,
and
of
the
Favours
that
Monarch
bestows
on
some
other
Fathers
of
the
Society
,
whom
he
has
made
Mandarin's
of
the
first
Order
.
It
must
be
acknowledg'd
,
that
the
Jesuits
are
perfect
Masters
of
the
Art
of
Intriguing
;
they
have
always
made
it
their
Bus'ness
to
insinuate
themselves
into
the
Affection
of
Princes
,
and
have
manag'd
their
Ambitious
Designs
with
so
much
Dexterity
and
Success
,
that
we
have
already
seen
some
Fathers
of
that
Order
dignify'd
with
the
Title
of
Embassadors
by
the
Courts
of
Siam
,
China
,
Poland
,
Tartary
,
&c.
You
see
,
Sir
,
how
suitable
their
Actions
are
to
the
pretended
Humility
of
their
Profession
:
And
I
leave
you
to
judge
with
what
Confidence
they
can
boast
of
their
renouncing
Ecclesiastical
Dignities
,
while
they
court
Secular
Preferments
with
so
much
Eagerness
.
An
Arabian
Impostor
at
his
Conjurations
P.
309
By
this
Instance
you
may
judge
of
the
boasted
Skill
of
all
those
feign'd
Arabian
Magicians
;
for
this
Man
was
reputed
one
of
the
most
learn'd
Professors
of
that
Art
in
Asia
:
And
yet
't
is
as
certain
as
you
may
think
it
incredible
,
that
some
Franks
are
so
besotted
with
those
mystical
Fooleries
,
that
they
are
not
asham'd
to
imploy
all
their
Time
in
so
useless
an
Occupation
.
I
know
a
very
expert
and
much-esteem'd
Painter
,
call'd
Le
Brun
,
who
neglecting
his
Bus'ness
,
applies
himself
wholly
to
the
Study
of
Divination
,
and
spends
whole
Days
in
turning
over
his
Magical
Books
,
which
he
procures
to
be
translated
into
French
at
a
very
considerable
Charge
.
But
notwithstanding
all
the
Confidence
of
this
pretended
Diviner
,
't
is
impossible
that
his
Art
can
be
true
,
since
the
very
Principles
on
which
it
depends
,
are
certainly
false
;
and
to
convince
you
of
the
Absurdity
of
his
Pretensions
,
't
will
be
sufficient
to
acquaint
you
with
his
usual
Method
of
Divining
.
He
has
two
little
Bones
with
Eight
Sides
a-piece
,
on
each
of
which
there
is
a
small
Character
engrav'd
;
and
when
you
propose
your
Question
,
he
throws
the
Bones
,
and
observes
the
Characters
that
appear
on
the
sides
that
happen
to
be
uppermost
.
Then
having
made
several
Combinations
of
these
Characters
,
with
certain
Numbers
,
according
to
the
Subject
of
the
Question
,
he
draws
a
Scheme
or
Figure
,
which
he
seeks
in
one
of
his
Books
,
where
he
finds
a
Sentence
written
,
which
he
fancies
to
be
the
desir'd
Solution
.
Thus
you
see
't
is
plain
that
the
whole
Mystery
depends
on
the
Fortune
of
the
Dice
:
But
when
I
endeavour'd
to
convince
him
of
the
Uncertainty
of
his
Art
which
betray'd
him
into
so
many
Errors
,
that
not
One
Answer
in
Thirty
was
found
to
be
exactly
true
,
he
reply'd
very
gravely
,
that
these
Mistakes
were
occasion'd
by
his
Ignorance
,
and
that
he
did
not
yet
comprehend
the
Depths
of
that
infallible
Science
;
adding
,
as
a
Confirmation
of
the
Certainty
of
the
Art
,
that
notwithstanding
the
small
Progress
he
had
made
in
it
,
he
never
found
that
his
Book
had
return'd
a
Cross
or
Impertinent
Answer
.
And
to
convince
me
of
the
Truth
of
his
Assertion
,
he
made
several
Tryals
in
my
Presence
,
and
I
observ'd
always
that
the
Answer
,
whether
True
or
False
,
related
to
the
Subject
of
the
Question
;
nor
will
I
scruple
to
confess
that
I
was
somewhat
surpriz'd
at
so
odd
an
Effect
of
Chance
.
The
Turks
are
also
very
much
addicted
to
the
study
of
the
Philosopher's
Stone
,
or
the
Art
of
making
Gold
and
Silver
;
and
I
remember
a
story
on
this
Subject
,
which
I
had
from
a
Turk
,
who
is
reckon'd
a
Man
of
Honour
.
Two
Persian
Dervises
came
to
Constantinople
about
four
Years
ago
,
and
after
they
had
staid
a
Fortnight
,
told
their
Landlord
,
that
tho'
they
had
no
Money
to
pay
for
their
Lodging
and
Entertainment
,
they
were
resolv'd
not
to
go
away
without
giving
him
entire
Satisfaction
.
I
know
not
what
Credit
he
gave
to
their
Promises
,
but
he
quickly
perceiv'd
the
Effect
of
'em
,
for
they
took
a
large
Copper-Dish
,
which
they
found
in
the
House
,
and
having
melted
it
down
in
his
Presence
,
threw
a
little
Powder
upon
it
,
which
immediately
chang'd
the
Copper
into
Silver
.
They
retain'd
one
half
for
themselves
,
and
left
the
other
with
their
Landlord
,
who
upon
tryal
found
it
to
be
true
Silver
:
And
besides
,
they
presented
him
with
a
small
Quantity
of
the
Powder
.
The
Grand
Visier
Ismael
,
hearing
of
this
Accident
,
sent
for
the
Man
,
and
oblig'd
him
to
deliver
up
the
Powder
,
which
he
show'd
to
several
expert
Chymists
,
who
according
to
his
Orders
,
endeavour'd
to
find
out
the
Secret
.
But
all
their
Attempts
were
unsuccessful
;
and
I
'm
the
rather
inclin'd
to
believe
the
Conclusion
of
the
Story
,
because
I
look
upon
this
Art
to
be
no
less
frivolous
and
uncertain
than
that
of
Divination
.
I
am
,
SIR
,
Your
&c.
Smyrna
,
August
1691.
LETTER
XXIV
.
SIR
,
IN
compliance
with
your
Desire
I
shall
in
this
Letter
,
present
you
with
a
short
View
of
the
Life
of
Soliman
,
Emperour
of
the
Turks
,
who
died
June
22.
and
was
succeeded
by
his
younger
Brother
,
Achmet
.
The
present
Grand
Signior
,
Achmet
,
the
deceas'd
Soliman
,
and
the
depos'd
Sultan
Mahomet
,
were
three
Brothers
,
the
Sons
of
Sultan
Ibrahim
,
who
was
strangl'd
in
the
Castle
of
the
Seven
Towers
,
in
the
heat
of
one
of
those
mutinous
Tumults
of
the
Janizaries
,
that
happen
so
frequently
in
this
Country
.
His
eldest
Son
Mahomet
,
who
was
then
very
young
,
was
declar'd
Emperour
by
the
Interest
and
Solicitation
of
the
Sultana
Mother
,
and
of
the
famous
Visie●
,
Kopergli
,
who
ow'd
his
Advancement
to
her
,
and
ever
afterwards
serv'd
her
with
an
inviolable
Fidelity
.
This
Prince's
Reign
may
be
justly
reckon'd
disastrous
;
for
not
to
mention
those
frequent
and
terrible
Seditions
that
made
him
tremble
so
often
,
and
in
one
of
which
he
was
at
last
dethron'd
,
his
Armies
were
several
times
●outed
by
the
Venetians
,
and
the
Duke
of
Lorrain
before
his
Death
,
had
almost
driven
him
quite
out
of
Hungary
.
The
Turks
,
who
are
the
most
ungovernable
Subjects
in
the
World
to
an
unfortunate
Prince
,
and
who
are
possess'd
with
a
Belief
of
a
certain
Predestination
,
that
over-rules
the
Fate
of
their
Emperour
on
which
they
imagine
the
Fortune
of
the
Empire
depends
,
concluded
that
the
Reign
of
Mahomet
would
be
a
perpetual
Scene
of
Disasters
:
and
the
Grandees
encourag'd
the
Superstition
of
the
People
,
in
Expectation
of
a
favourable
Opportunity
to
execute
the
Designs
they
had
premeditated
against
the
Government
.
They
cou'd
not
have
desir'd
a
more
inviting
Juncture
to
attempt
and
carry
on
so
vast
an
Undertaking
,
than
the
Disturbances
that
were
occasion'd
by
the
ill
Success
of
the
Campaign
of
1687.
and
especially
by
the
Loss
of
the
Famous
Battle
of
Hersan
;
where
the
Imperialists
kill'd
Ten
thousand
Turks
on
the
Spot
,
pillag'd
their
Camp
,
made
themselves
Masters
of
Ninety
Pieces
of
Cannon
,
and
their
whole
Train
of
Artillery
.
The
Consternation
that
was
occasion'd
among
the
Turks
by
the
News
of
this
Defeat
,
was
encreas'd
by
the
Advice
they
receiv'd
almost
at
the
same
time
that
the
Bridge
of
Esseck
was
seiz'd
by
the
Count
de
Dunevalt
,
immediately
after
the
Victory
.
The
Grand
Visier
,
who
commanded
the
Army
in
Person
,
dreading
the
usual
Fate
of
his
Predecessors
on
such
Occasions
,
endeavour'd
to
secure
himself
by
laying
the
Blame
on
the
Generals
that
commanded
under
him
;
and
resolving
to
prevent
the
Designs
of
his
Enemies
,
perswaded
the
Grand
Signior
to
put
'em
to
Death
.
But
tho'
the
Orders
for
that
Effect
were
actually
given
out
,
there
was
so
strong
a
Party
already
form'd
both
against
the
Visier
and
the
Sultan
,
that
the
Great
Officers
of
the
Army
,
with
the
Chiaoux
Bassa
at
their
Head
,
made
the
whole
Army
revolt
,
and
march'd
towards
Constantinople
,
with
a
Resolution
to
depose
Mahomet
,
and
place
his
Brother
Soliman
on
the
Throne
.
The
News
of
their
Approach
so
terrifi'd
the
Sultan
,
that
knowing
no
orher
Way
to
appease
the
Fury
of
the
Rebels
,
he
abandon'd
the
Grand
visier
,
and
sent
the
Imperial
Signet
to
the
Chiaoux
Bassa
,
whom
he
thought
to
gain
by
satisfying
his
Ambition
.
But
he
quickly
found
that
the
Danger
was
greater
than
he
imagin'd
;
for
that
Officer
declar'd
that
he
would
not
accept
the
Sultan's
Offer
till
the
Grand
Visier
,
Tefterdar
,
Receiver
of
the
Customs
,
the
Caimacan
,
and
some
others
whom
he
nam'd
,
were
put
to
Death
.
The
Persons
whose
Heads
he
demanded
were
the
only
faithful
Servants
of
the
Grand
Signior
,
who
was
extremely
perplex'd
at
so
unwelcome
a
Proposal
;
knowing
that
his
Visier's
Death
wou'd
infallibly
put
a
Period
to
his
own
Life
,
or
at
least
to
his
Reign
.
However
the
Necessity
of
his
Affairs
constrain'd
him
at
last
to
sign
the
fatal
Order
:
the
unfortunate
Visier
was
strangl'd
,
and
his
Head
sent
to
the
Chiaoux
Bassa
,
who
was
so
far
from
being
appeas'd
,
that
his
Insolence
was
heighten'd
by
this
Mark
of
the
Sultan's
Condescension
.
He
dismiss'd
the
Messengers
with
Scorn
,
telling
'em
in
a
domineering
Manner
,
That
they
cou'd
not
justly
expect
he
wou'd
be
satisfied
with
one
Head
instead
of
Twenty
which
he
had
demanded
;
and
that
this
way
of
proceeding
convinc'd
him
that
the
Government
was
not
much
concern'd
for
the
Quiet
of
the
Empire
.
Thus
the
Sultan
was
constrain'd
to
send
all
the
rest
of
the
Officers
whom
those
insolent
Rebels
requir'd
;
and
soon
after
perceiv'd
there
was
no
Hope
of
reducing
'em
to
a
Sence
of
their
Duty
:
for
all
the
Prisoners
were
barbarously
murder'd
in
the
Middle
of
the
Army
by
the
Chiaoux
Bassa's
Order
.
This
last
Act
of
Inhumanity
struck
such
a
Terrour
into
the
Grand
Signior's
Mind
,
that
concluding
himself
to
be
irrecoverably
lost
,
he
resolv'd
in
the
Fury
of
his
Despair
to
put
to
Death
all
his
Brothers
and
Sons
.
To
comprehend
the
Reason
of
this
dismal
Resolution
,
you
must
know
that
the
Religion
of
the
Turks
inspires
'em
with
a
certain
Veneration
for
the
Ottoman
Blood
,
that
over-awes
'em
ev'n
in
the
the
midst
of
the
most
terrible
Seditions
,
and
is
so
deeply
rooted
in
their
Minds
,
that
they
wou'd
rather
chuse
to
suffer
the
most
cruel
Death
than
to
see
the
Throne
possess'd
by
a
Prince
of
another
Family
.
And
therefore
't
is
the
usual
Custom
of
those
Emperours
to
begin
their
Reign
with
the
Death
of
their
Brothers
,
that
the
Throne
may
be
secur'd
from
the
Attempts
of
so
many
dangerous
Pretenders
.
Thus
Sultan
Amurath
,
the
Uncle
of
these
three
Emperours
,
put
to
Death
all
the
Males
of
the
Family
;
and
if
the
Tenderness
of
a
Mother
had
not
prompted
the
Sultana
Validé
to
hide
Ibrahim
,
who
was
the
Youngest
,
the
whole
Race
had
been
extingush'd
.
For
the
Sultans
are
more
concern'd
for
their
own
Security
than
for
the
Preservation
of
the
Royal
Line
.
Nevertheless
Sultan
Mahomet
wou'd
never
hearken
to
the
Perswasions
of
some
of
his
Counsellours
,
who
advis'd
him
to
put
that
cruel
Maxim
in
Execution
,
and
endeavour'd
to
make
him
sensible
that
the
Quiet
of
the
Empire
could
never
be
secur'd
but
by
the
Death
of
Soliman
and
Achmet
.
But
since
he
wou'd
not
put
'em
to
death
while
they
were
in
his
Power
,
he
found
,
at
last
,
that
he
cou'd
not
execute
that
bloody
Resolution
when
his
Despair
constrain'd
him
to
attempt
it
:
for
the
Bostangi
Bassa
,
who
was
one
of
the
Conspirators
,
carry'd
the
two
Princes
to
the
old
Seraglio
under
a
strong
Guard
,
who
mock'd
the
Sultan
when
he
demanded
to
be
admitted
with
some
of
his
Servants
;
and
the
Army
was
already
posted
in
and
about
Constantinople
.
That
Night
a
Council
of
the
Great
Officers
was
held
in
Santa-Sophia
,
where
they
came
to
a
final
Resolution
to
place
Soliman
on
the
Throne
,
and
he
was
declar'd
Emperour
the
next
Day
with
universal
Acclamations
of
Joy
.
Thus
Mahomet
was
depos'd
,
and
Soliman
,
who
was
no
less
averse
to
Cruelty
than
his
Brother
,
contented
himself
with
ordaining
that
he
shou'd
receive
the
same
Treatment
which
he
had
made
him
suffer
for
so
many
Years
.
When
the
Capigi
Bassa
came
to
secure
his
Person
,
and
to
acquaint
him
with
the
New
Emperour's
Order
,
he
found
him
on
the
Sopha
drinking
Coffee
,
with
a
Serenity
of
Mind
that
may
be
almost
reckon'd
a
Prodigy
,
considering
the
deplorable
Circumstances
of
his
Condition
.
He
submitted
without
making
the
least
Resistance
,
saying
,
That
it
was
impossible
to
oppose
the
Decrees
of
Heav'n
,
and
that
whatsoever
is
predestinated
must
necessarily
happen
.
In
the
mean
time
the
Caimacan
,
who
was
one
of
Sultan
Mahomet's
Favorites
,
had
the
good
Fortune
or
Interest
,
to
secure
himself
from
being
enroll'd
among
the
rest
of
those
miserable
Victims
that
were
sacrific'd
to
the
Fury
of
the
Chiaoux
Bassa
.
But
assoon
as
he
perceiv'd
that
his
Master
was
irrecoverably
ruin'd
,
he
resolv'd
to
prevent
the
implacable
Malice
of
his
Enemies
by
a
speedy
flight
:
and
considering
that
Christendom
was
the
only
Place
where
he
could
expect
to
secure
his
Life
,
he
embark'd
that
Night
on
a
Saique
accompany'd
only
with
one
Servant
;
and
having
made
a
sufficient
Provision
of
Gold
,
Silver
,
and
Jewels
,
attempted
to
get
into
a
French
Vessel
of
Ciotad
,
commanded
by
one
Captain
Crevilliers
:
but
the
Mariners
who
had
been
already
alarm'd
with
the
News
of
those
terrible
Disturbanees
,
wou'd
not
suffer
him
to
approach
the
Ship
till
he
had
declar'd
his
Name
,
and
acquainted
'em
,
that
the
Caimacan
of
Constantinople
desir'd
to
speak
with
the
Captain
.
Assoon
as
the
Captain
appear'd
,
the
Caimacan
intreated
him
to
receive
him
on
Board
his
Ship
,
and
transport
him
to
France
;
assuring
him
that
he
might
set
sail
the
next
night
without
any
Opposition
,
and
offering
Twenty
thousand
Sequins
,
or
Fifty
thousand
Crowns
for
his
Passage
.
This
was
a
very
tempting
Offer
to
the
Captain
,
and
he
has
since
told
me
,
that
he
wou'd
have
most
willingly
accepted
it
,
if
the
Caimacan
had
had
the
the
Prudence
to
conceal
his
Name
;
but
since
both
that
and
his
Quality
was
known
by
the
whole
Ship
's
Company
,
neither
Compassion
nor
Covetousness
cou'd
prevail
with
the
Captain
to
run
so
great
a
Hazard
;
so
that
the
poor
Caimacan
was
forc'd
to
steer
his
Course
towards
the
Canal
of
the
Black
Sea
,
thinking
to
make
his
Escape
that
way
.
But
he
was
quickly
discover'd
by
the
great
Quantity
of
Silver
which
he
had
about
him
,
and
was
brought
back
to
Constantinople
,
where
he
was
beheaded
.
A
Hundred
other
Bassa's
underwent
the
same
Fate
;
and
the
Grand
Visier
giving
a
full
Career
to
his
Spite
and
Revenge
,
fill'd
the
whole
City
with
Blood
and
Slaughter
.
There
was
nothing
to
be
seen
in
the
Streets
but
Janizaries
and
Spahi's
,
assaulting
and
murdering
those
whom
they
met
;
and
no
Man
when
he
rose
in
the
Morning
was
sure
of
going
to
Bed
at
Night
.
The
Franks
were
extremely
afraid
,
lest
the
Storm
should
fall
on
them
:
the
Ambassadours
secur'd
their
Houses
with
strong
Guards
,
and
all
the
Vessels
in
the
Port
,
English
,
French
,
Dutch
and
Venetian
,
join'd
together
,
and
put
out
to
Sea
,
with
a
Resolution
to
defend
themselves
to
the
last
Extremity
,
in
case
they
shou'd
be
attack'd
.
To
conclude
;
I
have
heard
some
Turks
,
who
are
both
very
old
,
and
well
skill'd
in
the
History
of
their
Country
,
affirm
,
That
the
Quiet
of
the
Empire
was
never
disturb'd
by
a
more
Bloody
Sedition
.
However
't
was
at
last
appeas'd
,
tho'
the
Calm
lasted
not
long
;
for
in
March
there
broke
forth
another
terrible
Insurrection
against
the
New
Sultan
,
whom
all
Men
began
to
look
upon
as
incapable
of
the
Government
.
Nor
were
they
much
mistaken
in
their
Opinion
of
him
,
and
't
is
strange
they
did
not
sooner
foresee
the
dangerons
Consequences
of
so
great
a
Revolution
;
for
how
cou'd
a
Man
learn
the
Art
of
Ruling
so
troublesome
an
Empire
,
who
had
spent
his
whole
Life
in
a
close
Prison
,
where
he
cou'd
only
converse
with
Books
,
and
was
so
perfect
a
Stranger
to
the
Management
of
Affairs
,
that
he
was
ignorant
ev'n
in
the
most
common
Things
.
Thus
the
best
Quality
they
could
expect
or
desire
him
to
be
indu'd
with
,
was
an
Easiness
of
Temper
,
and
a
Willingness
to
be
absolutely
govern'd
by
his
Ministers
;
and
indeed
it
may
be
said
,
that
there
was
never
a
more
tractable
Prince
;
for
during
the
whole
Course
of
his
Reign
he
never
made
Use
of
his
Absolute
Power
in
any
one
Act
,
but
only
in
preserving
his
Brothers
,
whom
he
was
often
advis'd
to
put
to
Death
;
especially
on
this
Occasion
,
when
the
Rebels
threaten'd
to
restore
Mahomet
to
the
Throne
,
and
had
almost
effected
their
Resolution
:
for
the
Visier
was
massacr'd
in
his
own
House
by
the
Janizaries
,
who
were
the
Authors
of
the
Revolt
,
and
had
made
themselves
Masters
of
the
City
.
But
the
Sultan
having
very
seasonably
display'd
the
Banner
of
Mahomet
,
the
Saphi's
,
the
Leventi
,
and
the
People
run
to
his
Assistance
,
and
dispers'd
the
the
Janizaries
.
After
the
Tumult
was
calm'd
,
the
Bassa
of
Natolia
,
who
headed
the
Rebels
,
was
oblig'd
to
beg
Pardon
,
and
above
Five
hundred
of
the
Mutineers
were
hang'd
;
tho'
their
Death
made
but
a
poor
Amends
for
a
whole
Quarter
of
the
City
,
and
above
Twenty
Galleys
and
Sultana's
which
they
had
burnt
.
'T
wou'd
be
needless
to
give
you
a
more
particular
Relation
of
these
Accidents
,
since
you
have
doubtless
read
an
Account
of
'em
in
your
publick
Journals
or
News-Papers
;
and
the
only
Reason
why
I
mention'd
'em
,
is
because
they
give
some
Light
to
the
Transactions
that
succeeded
'em
,
which
perhaps
have
not
yet
come
to
your
knowledge
.
While
the
whole
City
was
in
a
terrible
Combustion
,
and
the
Leventi
animated
by
a
Desire
of
Plunder
,
were
seeking
an
Occasion
of
breaking
forth
into
fresh
Disorders
,
there
came
a
whole
Troop
of
'em
to
the
French
Ambassadour's
Palace
,
and
in
a
very
insolent
Manner
desir'd
him
to
receive
a
certain
beggarly
Greek
,
whom
they
brought
along
with
'em
,
to
be
his
Drugger-Man
,
or
Interpreter
.
At
first
Monsieur
de
Girardin
rejected
the
Proposal
,
telling
'em
that
he
did
not
want
a
Drugger-Man
,
and
would
not
take
one
upon
their
Recommendation
;
but
seeing
they
began
to
be
unruly
,
and
threaten
to
set
Fire
to
his
House
,
he
grew
more
complaisant
,
and
receiv'd
the
Drugger-Man
more
civilly
.
Nor
can
he
be
blam'd
for
suffering
himself
to
be
hector'd
by
the
Rabble
,
since
't
is
certainly
the
wisest
Course
to
submit
on
such
Occasions
.
After
the
Sedition
was
quieted
,
Soliman
retir'd
to
Adrianople
;
for
he
did
not
think
himself
safe
in
a
City
that
becomes
the
Sultan's
Prison
upon
the
first
breaking
forth
of
an
Insurrection
;
and
after
that
time
he
never
resided
in
it
.
He
conferr'd
the
Dignity
of
Grand
Visier
on
one
Ismael
Bassa
,
a
Man
without
Experience
,
and
one
who
had
nothing
to
recommend
him
but
the
Favour
of
his
Master
.
No
sooner
was
he
intrusted
with
the
Administration
of
the
Government
,
but
the
Empire
was
over-run
with
those
Disorders
and
Confusions
that
are
the
natural
Consequences
of
the
Unskilfulness
of
the
Principal
Minister
of
State
.
Several
Bassa's
began
to
form
Cabals
,
and
enter
into
separate
Associations
.
Some
espous'd
the
Interest
of
the
Sultaness
,
the
Mother
of
the
depos'd
Mahomet
,
who
plotted
to
restore
her
Son
;
others
declar'd
in
Favour
of
one
Jeghen
Bassa
,
who
pretended
to
be
of
the
Ottoman
Race
:
some
resolv'd
to
be
independent
,
without
acknowledging
any
Head
of
their
Party
,
and
all
in
general
resus'd
to
submit
to
the
present
Government
.
In
the
mean
time
the
Emperour
carry'd
on
the
War
very
prosperously
;
for
the
Duke
of
Bavaria
took
Belgrade
by
Storm
,
and
the
Prince
of
Baden
,
after
he
had
defeated
the
Bassa
of
Bosnia
,
made
himself
Master
of
the
whole
Province
.
The
next
Year
was
remarkable
for
more
Signal
and
Glorious
Advantages
;
for
the
Prince
of
Baden
,
who
commanded
the
Imperial
Army
in
Hungary
,
fought
three
Battles
successively
,
and
obtain'd
as
many
important
Victories
.
The
first
Battle
was
fought
near
Passarowitz
,
where
the
Turks
lost
seven
Thousand
Men
,
a
hundred
Pieces
of
Cannon
,
all
their
Bombs
,
Carcasses
,
Mortars
,
Powder
,
Tents
,
&c.
The
second
Victory
was
obtain'd
on
the
24
th
.
of
September
,
near
Nissa
,
where
the
Serasquier
who
commanded
in
Person
,
cou'd
not
prevent
the
Loss
of
all
his
Cannon
,
and
eight
Thousand
Soldiers
.
The
third
Battel
was
fought
near
Widen
;
and
during
the
Heat
of
the
Action
,
the
Imperialists
carry'd
the
Town
by
Storm
.
Besides
,
the
Prince
of
Baden
had
taken
Nissa
,
Zwornick
,
Nowigrath
,
Arsowath
,
and
several
other
Places
,
which
open'd
a
free
Passage
into
Bulgaria
and
Macedonia
,
and
from
thence
into
Romania
;
so
that
if
the
War
had
been
carry'd
on
for
some
time
with
the
same
Vigour
and
Success
,
the
Imperialists
might
have
advanc'd
to
the
Gates
of
Constantinople
.
But
in
the
beginning
of
the
last
Year
,
the
Visier
Ismael
was
depos'd
,
and
succeeded
by
Kopergli
Oglou
,
Bassa
of
Scio.
'T
was
then
the
Turks
began
to
hope
they
might
see
a
happy
Turn
of
Affairs
;
they
remember'd
the
great
Actions
of
the
famous
Visier
of
that
Name
,
and
were
persuaded
that
this
Minister
wou'd
imitate
so
glorious
a
Example
.
Nor
were
they
disappointed
in
their
Expectation
;
for
the
new
Visier
was
not
inferior
to
his
Predecessor
either
in
Valour
,
Strength
of
Mind
,
or
any
other
Endowments
that
are
necessary
to
fit
a
Man
for
the
Management
of
Affairs
;
and
the
Empire
was
quickly
sensible
of
the
Advantageous
Influences
of
his
Government
.
I
have
already
acquainted
you
in
a
former
Letter
,
with
the
prosperous
Success
of
their
Arms
during
the
last
Campagne
,
which
gave
Occasion
to
the
French
Embassador
to
take
notice
of
the
Sympathy
between
the
two
Empires
,
and
was
afterwards
solemniz'd
by
that
Triumph
of
which
I
gave
you
a
short
Description
.
And
therefore
instead
of
troubling
you
with
a
tedious
Relation
of
those
Events
,
which
you
have
doubtless
heard
of
,
and
have
not
yet
forgotten
;
I
shall
only
tell
you
,
that
if
that
Great
Man
had
not
been
kill'd
at
the
Battle
of
Salankemen
,
the
Christians
wou'd
have
had
Reason
to
dread
a
fatal
Revolution
,
which
they
cou'd
hardly
have
prevented
any
otherwise
,
than
by
a
speedy
Peace
.
And
indeed
that
Design
was
carry'd
on
so
successfully
,
that
every
one
expected
a
happy
Conclusion
of
their
Negotiations
,
when
they
were
unfortunately
interrupted
by
the
Visier's
Death
.
For
he
was
not
at
all
averse
to
the
Proposal
,
and
was
so
far
from
being
acted
by
that
base
Love
of
Riches
,
with
which
the
Turks
are
generally
possess'd
,
that
,
contrary
to
the
usual
Maxims
of
his
Predecessors
,
he
pursu'd
no
other
Interest
than
this
of
the
State
.
He
had
often
discours'd
on
that
Subject
with
Monsieur
Collier
,
the
Dutch
Ambassadour
,
whose
Reasons
made
the
greater
Impression
upon
him
,
because
of
the
Character
he
had
receiv'd
of
his
Merit
,
Capacity
,
and
Dexterity
in
publick
Negotiations
.
And
that
able
Minister
had
prepossess'd
the
Mind
of
the
Visier
with
such
strong
Inclinations
to
a
Peace
,
that
,
if
we
may
be
allow'd
to
judge
by
the
most
promising
Appearances
,
he
wou'd
have
actually
concluded
it
,
if
he
had
not
been
prevented
by
Death
.
For
Monsieur
Collier
had
made
so
good
Use
of
such
a
favourable
Opportunity
,
that
almost
all
the
Articles
were
agreed
on
,
and
the
Emperour
had
empower'd
the
Prince
of
Baden
to
sign
the
Treaty
;
and
had
appointed
the
Counts
of
Kinsky
and
Straatman
to
be
his
Assistants
.
The
King
of
Poland
and
the
Republick
of
Venice
had
also
sent
their
Plenipotentiaries
:
but
instead
of
the
much-desir'd
News
of
a
Peace
,
we
receiv'd
an
Account
of
the
dreadful
Battle
of
Salankemen
,
in
which
the
Visier
was
one
of
the
first
that
lost
his
Life
.
The
Aga
of
the
Janizaries
,
the
Serasquier
,
and
Ten
other
Bassa's
of
Note
,
had
the
same
Fate
;
and
the
Turkish
Army
fled
with
so
much
Precipitation
and
Terrour
,
that
the
Memory
of
the
Oldest
Men
cannot
furnish
'em
with
an
Instance
of
so
entire
a
Defeat
.
They
lost
above
20000
Men
,
all
their
Cannon
and
Baggage
;
and
,
in
a
word
,
all
they
had
in
their
Camp
.
I
cannot
express
the
Consternation
that
was
spread
over
the
whole
Ottoman
Empire
,
by
the
surprizing
and
melancholy
News
which
was
brought
into
this
Country
by
some
that
had
the
good
Fortune
to
escape
;
who
never
speak
of
that
Battle
without
a
certain
Dread
and
Amazement
in
their
Countenance
,
which
gives
us
a
more
lively
Idea
of
the
Horrour
of
that
Day
,
than
the
most
particular
Relation
that
cou'd
be
made
of
the
Action
.
Monsieur
de
Chateauneuf
takes
so
deep
a
Share
in
the
Public
Sorrow
,
that
I
know
not
whether
he
cou'd
support
so
terrible
a
Blow
,
if
the
Visier's
Death
did
not
comfort
him
a
little
.
For
that
Minister
never
had
the
Happiness
of
his
Favour
,
because
he
wou'd
not
be
led
by
his
Advice
;
and
I
know
a
Man
to
whom
the
Ambassadour
express'd
his
Thoughts
in
these
very
Words
,
speaking
of
a
Peace
;
'T
will
,
doubtless
,
be
speedily
concluded
,
said
he
;
The
Dutch
Ambassadour
is
perpetually
with
the
Visier
,
and
has
got
such
a
Power
over
him
,
that
he
can
undo
in
one
Day
all
that
I
am
able
to
do
in
Ten.
Nor
were
his
Fears
groundless
,
for
I
can
assure
you
that
Mr.
Collier
is
perhaps
the
fittest
Man
in
the
World
to
manage
such
a
Negotiation
.
In
the
first
place
,
he
knows
the
Original
of
all
the
Great
Men
at
the
Port
,
and
is
perfectly
acquainted
with
their
several
Humours
,
Intrigues
,
and
Interests
.
Besides
he
is
the
Son
of
an
Ambassadour
,
and
from
his
very
Birth
has
been
enur'd
to
Business
,
which
by
that
Means
is
become
so
natural
to
him
,
that
he
manages
the
most
intricate
Affairs
with
a
certain
happy
Easiness
that
can
only
be
acquir'd
by
a
Person
of
so
rare
an
Industry
,
and
after
a
long
Residence
at
the
Court
.
These
are
the
Advantages
which
Monsieur
de
Chateauneuf
wants
:
't
is
true
,
he
has
a
great
deal
of
Wit
,
and
never
sleeps
away
an
Opportunity
of
Acting
;
but
after
all
,
an
Ambassadour
at
his
Arrival
from
France
may
be
reckon'd
almost
as
great
a
Stranger
at
the
Port
,
as
if
he
had
dropt
from
the
Clouds
.
The
Genius
and
Humour
of
that
Nation
is
directly
opposite
to
ours
,
and
Mr.
Collier
has
studi'd
it
so
carefully
,
and
understands
it
so
perfectly
,
that
he
cou'd
easily
give
the
Bassa's
themselves
a
Lesson
on
this
Subject
.
So
that
if
Monsieur
de
Chateauneuf
did
not
counter-ballance
these
Advantages
with
large
Bags
of
Gold
and
Silver
,
which
are
always
wont
to
outweigh
Reason
in
Turkey
,
the
Peace
wou'd
have
been
long
since
concluded
.
This
puts
me
in
Mind
of
a
Story
,
which
will
give
you
an
Idea
of
the
usual
way
of
managing
Affairs
in
this
place
.
The
Captain
of
a
Venetian
Ship
,
who
arriv'd
some
Months
ago
at
Constantinople
,
under
the
Protection
and
Colours
of
Holland
,
was
solicited
by
the
French
Ambassadour
to
put
himself
under
his
Protection
,
and
was
at
last
allur'd
to
yield
to
that
Minister's
Request
by
the
Promises
he
made
him
to
obtain
considerable
Favours
for
him
,
both
as
to
the
Entry
and
Exportation
of
his
Goods
.
Mr.
Collier
,
who
upon
all
Occasions
maintains
the
Honour
of
his
Masters
with
the
highest
Zeal
and
Courage
,
wou'd
not
endure
an
Affront
that
seem'd
to
be
directly
aim'd
at
the
Republic
.
Assoon
as
he
heard
of
it
,
he
sent
Orders
to
the
Captain
to
take
down
the
Banner
of
France
,
if
he
was
not
resolv'd
to
suffer
the
utmost
Severity
of
his
just
Indignation
:
but
that
deluded
Officer
slighted
the
Message
,
and
so
was
himself
the
Cause
of
all
the
Misfortunes
that
afterwards
befel
him
.
For
after
his
Excellency
had
given
Notice
to
the
Grand
Visier
that
there
was
a
Prize
in
the
Port
,
Orders
were
immediately
sent
to
seize
the
Vessel
,
which
was
declar'd
to
be
lawful
Prize
;
and
the
Captain
with
all
the
Seamen
were
put
in
Chains
.
You
may
easily
conclude
that
the
French
were
extremely
mortifi'd
to
see
a
hundred
Wretches
loaded
with
Fetters
,
and
sold
for
Slaves
,
meerly
for
setting
up
the
Banner
of
that
Nation
.
Monsieur
de
Chateauneuf
receiv'd
a
very
severe
Reprimand
from
Monsieur
de
Pontchartrain
,
and
't
was
generally
believ'd
that
his
Indiscretion
on
this
Occasion
wou'd
make
him
be
recall'd
from
the
Port.
In
the
mean
time
he
was
perpetually
at
the
Grand
Visier's
Gate
,
importuning
him
for
the
Relief
of
the
Ship
and
Mariners
:
but
after
all
his
earnest
Solicitations
,
he
cou'd
not
obtain
a
more
favourable
Composition
,
than
that
he
was
permitted
to
redeem
the
Men
at
the
Rate
of
Fifty
Crowns
a-piece
;
and
the
Ransom
of
the
Ship
was
fix'd
at
Ten
thousand
Crowns
,
which
was
more
than
its
real
Value
.
Since
that
time
the
Credit
of
the
French
Protection
is
extremely
lessen'd
;
and
I
'm
apt
to
believe
that
few
Captains
will
hereafter
be
guilty
of
the
like
Imprudence
.
And
even
I
know
several
Venetian
Captains
who
will
not
put
themselves
under
the
Protection
of
France
,
because
the
Ambassadour
has
impos'd
a
Tax
of
Fifteen
thousand
Crowns
upon
the
Vessels
of
that
Nation
by
way
of
Reprizal
,
for
the
Money
he
paid
to
the
Grand
Visier
.
This
Imposition
occasions
a
great
murmuring
among
the
Venetians
,
who
pretend
that
he
was
oblig'd
in
Justice
to
redeem
the
Vessel
at
his
own
Charge
,
since
he
was
the
only
Cause
of
its
Misfortune
.
I
perceive
that
I
have
insensibly
wander'd
from
my
Subject
,
and
am
ready
to
acknowledge
that
this
wou'd
be
an
unpardonable
Fault
in
an
Exact
and
Methodical
History
:
but
since
I
only
promis'd
you
a
clear
and
faithful
Account
of
the
Observations
I
shou'd
have
Occasion
to
make
in
my
Travels
,
I
do
not
think
my self
oblig'd
to
make
an
Apology
for
every
little
Digression
.
The
Emperour
Soliman
died
on
the
twenty
second
of
June
last
:
some
believe
that
his
Death
was
natural
,
but
others
say
that
it
was
occasion'd
by
the
Sultaness
the
Mother
of
Mahomet
.
The
last
of
these
Opinions
is
most
generally
receiv'd
,
and
wou'd
seem
very
probable
,
if
it
had
produc'd
any
advantageous
Alteration
in
the
Condition
of
that
unfortunate
Prince
;
but
there
was
not
the
least
Motion
made
in
Order
to
his
Restauration
.
Achmet
was
unanimously
elected
,
and
his
Accession
to
the
Throne
was
attended
with
a
certain
Tranquillity
that
is
rarely
observ'd
in
this
Country
.
The
Misfortunes
that
happen'd
in
the
Beginning
of
his
Reign
seem
to
be
the
Forerunners
and
Presages
of
future
Disasters
;
for
before
the
first
Month
was
expir'd
,
he
lost
that
Great
and
Memorable
Battle
of
Salankemen
,
of
which
I
have
already
given
you
an
Account
.
And
if
I
may
be
allow'd
to
give
Credit
to
the
probable
Conjectures
of
those
who
are
best
acquainted
with
the
Genius
of
his
Subjects
,
I
may
venture
to
foretell
that
he
will
never
be
an
old
Emperour
,
tho'
he
is
already
in
the
Eight
and
fortieth
Year
of
his
Age.
For
the
Franks
are
possess'd
with
a
less
advantageous
Opinion
of
him
than
of
his
Predecessor
Soliman
,
whose
Reign
was
nevertheless
disturb'd
with
an
almost
perpetual
Revolt
that
kept
his
Throne
continually
in
a
tottering
Condition
.
The
Death
of
the
Visier
Kopergli
,
according
to
the
usual
Custom
of
this
Country
,
was
follow'd
with
several
Changes
of
Officers
,
and
the
Death
of
many
great
Persons
,
among
the
rest
of
one
Mustapha
Aga
,
whom
I
knew
at
Constantinople
.
He
was
born
at
Leghorn
in
Italy
,
and
had
the
Disadvantage
to
be
descended
of
a
Family
which
had
no
considerable
Fortune
.
He
was
taken
by
the
Turks
at
the
Siege
of
Candy
,
and
renounc'd
his
Religion
at
the
Desire
of
the
Grand
Visier
,
who
had
a
good
Opinion
of
his
Abilities
,
and
resolv'd
to
put
him
in
a
Way
of
Bus●ness
.
He
was
easily
prevail'd
with
to
embrace
the
Turkish
Faith
;
for
since
he
was
naturally
of
an
aspiring
Temper
,
he
enter'd
with
Joy
into
the
Service
of
a
Man
by
whose
Interest
he
might
expect
to
raise
his
Fortune
,
and
either
out
of
Gratitude
,
or
Policy
,
he
chose
always
to
depend
on
that
Family
.
So
that
the
late
Visier
,
Kopergli
Oglou
,
was
his
particular
Patron
,
and
advanc'd
him
to
the
Tophana
,
that
is
,
the
Founding
or
Casting
of
Metals
,
of
which
he
was
Directour-General
,
as
well
as
of
the
Mint
,
which
is
the
most
gainful
Post
in
the
Empire
.
And
besides
he
made
a
very
considerable
Addition
to
the
usual
Profits
of
that
Office
,
by
inventing
and
introducing
a
certain
Copper
Coin
,
call'd
Mangours
:
for
each
Piece
was
order'd
to
pass
at
the
Rate
of
six
French
Deniers
,
tho'
't
was
no
larger
than
a
Dutch
Doit
,
or
a
single
French
Denier
;
so
that
buying
the
Copper
at
twenty
Pence
a
Pound
,
the
Profit
amounted
to
Six
in
Seven
.
Not
long
after
the
Advancement
of
Kopergli
Oglou
,
Mustapha
propos'd
this
Expedient
to
fill
the
Treasury
,
which
till
this
time
was
very
empty
;
and
had
Orders
to
coin
Four
thousand
Purses
of
that
Money
,
or
Two
millions
of
Crowns
.
So
prodigious
a
Quantity
of
those
Pieces
cou'd
not
but
occasion
great
Disorders
,
and
a
general
Interruption
of
Trade
;
and
besides
those
that
were
coin'd
at
the
Mint
,
there
came
several
Barks
laden
with
'em
from
France
and
Thessalonica
,
where
they
were
coin'd
by
the
Jews
,
so
that
there
are
above
Two
hundred
thousand
Crowns
of
Counterfeit
Money
at
present
in
the
Empire
.
At
last
People
were
so
discourag'd
at
those
Abuses
,
that
about
three
Months
ago
they
began
to
refuse
to
take
these
Pieces
for
more
than
one
half
,
and
at
present
they
will
not
take
'em
at
all
,
notwithstanding
the
repeated
Orders
of
the
Grand
Signior
,
who
(
as
I
intimated
before
)
is
not
much
respected
in
this
Country
.
The
Disorders
occasion'd
by
the
debasing
of
the
Coin
,
and
the
vast
Estate
Mustapha
Aga
had
acquir'd
,
were
the
Causes
of
his
Death
.
His
Enemies
had
long
before
begun
to
exclaim
against
the
Methods
he
took
to
oppress
the
People
;
pretending
that
he
was
a
Christian
in
his
Heart
,
and
that
he
wou'd
at
last
make
his
Escape
to
Italy
with
all
the
Treasure
he
had
scrap'd
together
in
the
Empire
,
which
certainly
had
been
the
most
prudent
Course
for
a
Man
in
his
Circumstances
.
But
since
the
Desire
of
Riches
is
like
the
Thirst
of
some
diseas'd
Persons
,
which
is
encreas'd
by
Drinking
,
instead
of
heark'ning
to
the
Advice
of
his
Friends
,
he
took
a
quite
contrary
Method
,
and
sent
for
his
Sister
and
Nephews
,
thinking
by
that
Means
to
vindicate
himself
from
the
Aspersions
that
were
fix'd
upon
him
by
his
Adversaries
.
Besides
he
plac'd
an
entire
Confidence
in
the
Grand
Visier
,
and
thought
himself
absolutely
secure
under
the
Protection
of
so
kind
and
powerful
a
Patron
:
but
he
ought
to
have
consider'd
that
his
Patron
was
Mortal
,
and
that
his
Interest
wou'd
expire
with
his
Life
.
'T
is
plain
by
the
Event
,
that
he
shou'd
have
acted
more
warily
in
so
dangerous
a
Post
;
for
I
have
just
now
receiv'd
a
Letter
which
informs
me
that
he
was
strangl'd
,
after
they
had
given
him
the
Torture
to
make
him
discover
his
Money
.
And
he
was
even
so
strangely
infatuated
,
that
tho'
he
was
not
apprehended
for
the
Space
of
Eight
Days
after
the
Visi●r's
Death
,
instead
of
making
his
Escape
,
he
chose
rather
to
expect
his
Fate
at
his
own
House
;
where
he
was
at
last
arrested
by
the
Caimacan
,
with
his
Wife
,
Sister
,
and
Nephews
.
These
unfortunate
Creatures
,
who
have
not
yet
renounc'd
the
Catholic
Religion
,
sent
to
beg
Monsieur
de
Chateauneuf's
Protection
for
the
obtaining
of
their
Liberty
:
but
he
is
too
much
a
Politician
to
hazard
his
Interest
at
the
Port
to
preserve
the
Honour
of
his
Religion
.
They
begin
again
to
talk
of
Peace
more
than
ever
;
and
I●m
inform'd
that
the
Dutch
Ambassadour
has
prevail'd
with
the
New
Visier
Hali
,
to
continue
the
Negotiations
for
that
Effect
at
Adrianople
,
whither
he
and
the
English
Ambassadour
,
Sir
William
Hussy
,
will
set
forward
in
few
Days
;
and
't
is
generally
believ'd
that
the
Treaty
will
be
brought
to
a
happy
Conclusion
,
assoon
as
the
Count
de
Marsigli
is
return'd
from
Vienna
,
whither
he
went
to
receive
the
Emperour's
final
Instructions
:
So
that
I
hope
I
shall
be
able
in
my
next
to
send
you
some
considerable
News
.
In
the
mean
time
I
am
,
SIR
,
Your
,
&c.
Smyrna
,
Septemb.
1691.
LETTER
XXV
.
SIR
,
I
Have
not
forgot
the
Promise
I
made
you
at
the
End
of
my
last
Letter
;
but
I
know
not
if
you
will
thank
me
for
keeping
my
Word
,
since
instead
of
the
News
I
hop'd
to
send
you
,
I
must
acquaint
you
that
the
Negotiations
for
a
Peace
are
at
an
End
,
or
rather
interrupted
for
some
time
;
for
't
is
so
much
the
Grand
Signior's
Int'rest
to
conclude
a
Treaty
,
that
without
pretending
to
the
Spirit
of
Prophesie
,
I
may
venture
to
foretel
that
it
will
be
renew'd
.
In
the
mean
time
it
will
not
be
improper
to
give
you
an
Account
of
this
unexpected
Accident
.
The
English
and
Dutch
Ambassadors
arriv'd
at
Adrianople
in
the
Beginning
of
the
last
Month
,
and
had
several
Conferences
with
the
Grand
Visier
,
in
which
the
greatest
part
of
the
Articles
were
mutually
agreed
on
;
and
the
only
Difficulty
that
obstructed
the
happy
Conclusion
of
the
Treaty
,
was
the
Visier's
insisting
upon
the
Restoring
of
Buda
,
and
the
keeping
of
Caminiec
,
concerning
which
they
expected
Instructions
from
the
Emperor
.
While
Affairs
were
in
this
Posture
,
the
Plague
began
to
rage
so
violently
at
Adrianople
,
that
the
Ambassadors
thought
fit
to
retire
to
a
Vilage
two
Leagues
on
this
side
the
Town
,
till
the
Fury
of
the
Distemper
shou'd
be
somewhat
abated
.
But
the
Baron
de
Chateauneuf
having
receiv'd
new
Instructions
,
which
in
all
probability
were
accompany'd
with
some
weighty
Proposals
,
came
to
Adrianople
,
tho'
he
was
neither
sent
for
nor
expected
;
and
without
the
least
Regard
to
the
preservation
of
his
Life
,
he
had
the
Courage
to
brave
Death
in
the
midst
of
a
City
where
she
seem'd
to
have
fix'd
the
Seat
of
her
Empire
;
for
the
Plague
made
so
terrible
a
Havock
,
that
there
died
above
a
Thousand
Persons
a
Day
.
At
the
same
time
it
happen'd
that
Sir
William
Hussy
was
in
a
Gallery
,
and
perceiving
a
Company
of
Men
in
the
Plain
,
he
had
the
Curiosity
to
send
one
of
his
Servants
to
inquire
who
they
were
.
As
soon
as
he
heard
that
't
was
the
French
Ambassador
,
he
began
to
dread
the
Consequences
of
that
Minister●s
Journey
;
for
he
consider'd
that
he
wou'd
never
have
expos'd
himself
to
so
imminent
a
Danger
,
and
even
without
being
call'd
,
if
there
had
not
been
some
hidden
and
extraordinary
Design
in
Agitation
.
'T
is
thought
that
the
French
King
being
inform'd
of
the
great
Progress
that
was
made
in
the
Treaty
,
sent
Instructions
to
his
Ambassador
,
impowering
him
to
conclude
a
secret
Alliance
with
the
Turks
;
and
't
is
but
too
plain
that
these
are
more
than
bare
Conjectures
;
for
the
Visier
wou'd
never
afterwards
hear
the
least
Word
of
a
Peace
.
However
,
't
is
certain
that
Sir
William
Hussey's
Vexation
at
so
unexpected
a
Disappointment
,
contributed
not
a
little
to
his
Death
;
for
you
must
not
give
credit
to
the
Surmises
of
those
who
pretend
that
he
was
poyson'd
,
since
there
was
not
the
least
Mark
of
Poyson
found
in
his
Body
,
which
was
open'd
by
his
own
Chirurgeon
,
in
the
presence
of
his
Chaplain
,
Secretary
,
and
the
rest
of
his
Domestick
Servants
.
But
tho'
in
all
probability
the
French
had
no
hand
in
this
Gentleman's
Death
,
I
dare
not
pronounce
'em
guiltless
of
the
Attempt
that
was
made
upon
Count
Marsigli
,
who
was
assaulted
near
Belgrade
,
in
his
return
from
Vienna
with
his
Imperial
Majesty's
Answer
.
His
Chiaoux
,
and
two
of
his
Servants
,
were
kill'd
upon
the
Spot
,
and
he
was
wounded
in
five
places
both
with
Sabres
and
Pistols
:
But
before
they
had
time
to
dispatch
him
,
the
Prince
of
Moldavia
came
seasonably
to
his
Assistance
,
tho'
he
cou'd
not
seize
the
Murderers
,
because
they
fled
as
soon
as
they
perceiv'd
him
.
All
these
Circumstances
,
and
the
Juncture
of
the
Time
,
make
me
very
inclinable
to
believe
that
this
Attempt
was
not
made
without
a
particular
Order
.
I
took
Occasion
Yesterday
to
discourse
concerning
this
Accident
with
the
Consul
de
Hochepied
,
whose
Vertue
makes
him
so
incapable
of
Suspicion
,
that
he
cannot
believe
the
French
wou'd
be
guilty
of
so
Barbarous
an
Action
;
and
besides
,
he
is
persuaded
that
the
Murderers
wou'd
have
seiz'd
on
the
Count's
Papers
,
if
they
had
been
set
on
by
the
French
.
But
in
my
Opinion
that
Circumstance
ought
not
to
be
alleg'd
as
an
Argument
in
their
Vindication
;
for
the
seizing
of
the
Papers
wou'd
have
plainly
discover'd
the
Authors
of
the
Murder
;
and
we
may
reasonably
suppose
,
that
tho'
the
French
King
takes
no
care
to
conceal
the
boundlesness
of
his
Ambition
,
he
wou'd
be
loath
to
be
reckon'd
an
Abettor
of
Murderers
.
And
besides
,
he
might
well
dispense
with
a
Sight
of
the
Emperor's
Orders
and
Count
Marsigli's
Instructions
,
since
he
entertains
so
many
Spies
at
the
Port
,
who
make
it
their
Business
to
discover
the
most
secret
Transactions
,
and
had
in
all
probability
acquainted
him
with
every
thing
that
related
to
the
Negotiation
.
Thus
Mr.
Collier
has
had
the
Misfortune
to
see
all
his
Hopes
unexpectedly
blasted
;
and
we
may
reasonably
suppose
that
his
Vexation
is
considerably
heighten'd
by
the
impossibility
of
regaining
his
Ground
:
For
Money
is
the
prevailing
Argument
at
the
Port
,
and
the
infallible
Rule
by
which
all
Controversies
are
decided
.
I
cannot
better
represent
the
Genius
of
the
Aga's
,
Bassa's
,
that
Visiers
that
compose
this
Court
,
than
by
comparing
'em
to
a
Company
of
Merchants
,
who
wou'd
sell
the
very
State
if
they
cou'd
,
to
the
highest
Bidder
.
And
the
same
Character
may
be
universally
apply'd
to
private
Persons
;
for
Int'rest
is
the
Idol
to
which
they
sacrifice
their
Quiet
,
Honour
,
Emperor
,
and
even
the
Empire
it self
.
This
is
the
fatal
Source
of
all
those
terrible
Disorders
and
Revolutions
,
of
which
we
find
so
many
Instances
in
History
,
that
wou'd
seem
altogether
incredible
if
almost
every
Day
did
not
furnish
us
with
fresh
Examples
of
'em
.
There
is
at
present
in
this
Place
one
of
Count
Tekely's
Relations
,
who
came
lately
from
France
;
and
't
is
observable
,
that
he
was
not
at
all
surpriz'd
at
the
News
of
the
unsuccessful
Conclusion
of
the
Treaty
,
which
makes
us
believe
that
he
expected
so
sudden
a
Change
,
and
was
not
ignorant
of
the
Causes
of
it
.
He
lodges
at
the
Consul's
House
,
and
is
just
ready
to
depart
for
Constantinople
,
where
't
is
said
he
intends
to
lodge
with
Mon●ieur
Chateauneuf
.
I
know
not
what
Treatment
he
expects
from
the
Ambassador
,
but
I
'm
apt
to
believe
he
will
not
meet
with
a
very
Ceremonious
Reception
:
For
when
the
Count
himself
paid
a
Visit
to
the
Ambassador
at
Sophia
,
he
receiv'd
him
in
his
Bed
,
and
pretended
a
Fit
of
Sickness
,
to
avoid
the
Ceremony
of
a
formal
Reception
;
for
there
were
some
Reasons
that
inclin'd
him
to
receive
the
Count
as
Prince
of
Transilvania
,
as
there
were
others
that
oblig'd
him
to
treat
him
only
as
Count
Tekely
.
The
Triumph
of
a
Christian
that
has
renouned
the
Faith
I
had
Occasion
this
very
Day
to
see
the
Triumphant
Procession
of
a
Genoese
Renegado
,
who
came
hither
in
a
Ship
belonging
to
Provence
.
Since
the
Cadi's
are
oblig'd
by
the
Chartel
not
to
receive
a
Christian
that
intends
to
abjure
his
Religion
till
they
have
first
acquainted
the
Consul
of
his
Nation
,
who
is
to
examine
whether
his
Apostacy
be
voluntary
or
constrain'd
;
the
Cadi
of
the
City
sent
to
inform
the
French
Consul
,
that
a
Frank
who
came
under
the
Banner
of
France
,
was
resolv'd
to
turn
Musulman
,
adding
,
that
he
might
send
his
Interpreters
to
examine
the
new
Convert
,
and
re●eive
his
Declaration
.
The
Consul
reply'd
,
that
he
did
not
know
the
Man
,
nor
was
at
all
concern'd
with
his
Resolution
;
but
hearing
that
the
Cavalcade
was
to
pass
by
his
Gate
,
he
sent
Word
to
the
Cadi
,
that
he
wou'd
take
it
as
an
Affront
,
and
order
the
Renegado
to
be
seiz'd
in
the
midst
of
his
Triumph
,
and
chastis'd
with
five
hundred
Bastonado's
.
Nevertheless
he
was
so
far
from
endeavouring
to
execute
his
Menaces
,
that
he
suffer'd
the
whole
Procession
to
pass
under
his
Windows
without
making
the
least
Attempt
to
disturb
●em
.
I
shall
take
this
Occasion
to
give
you
a
●●ief
Account
of
the
Ceremonies
that
are
us'd
when
a
Christian
intends
to
abjure
his
Religion
.
First
they
instruct
him
in
the
Principles
of
the
Mahometan
Religion
,
and
after
a
whole
Month
spent
in
that
Exercise
,
they
gather
a
Contribution
to
buy
a
Sute
of
Clothes
for
him
,
which
sometimes
amounts
to
fifty
Crowns
,
but
rarely
exceeds
that
Summ
;
and
they
commonly
use
Force
when
People
are
not
willing
to
contribute
out
of
Charity
.
Then
the
Renegado
is
carry'd
before
the
Cadi
,
in
whose
Presence
,
and
of
two
Effendi's
,
and
several
other
Persons
,
he
makes
a
public
Profession
of
his
Faith
with
the
following
Ceremonies
.
First
an
Isman
makes
him
perform
the
Goul
,
which
is
their
most
Solemn
Ablution
,
and
as
he
begins
to
wash
himself
,
he
pronounces
these
Words
,
bis
millah
el
azem
ve
ellem
doullillah
allah
din
is
lam
;
In
the
Name
of
the
Great
God
,
Glory
be
to
God
,
the
God
of
the
Musulman
Faith
.
Then
the
Isman
himself
performs
the
Goul
,
for
they
reckon
themselves
polluted
by
touching
a
Christian
;
after
which
they
both
put
on
their
Clothes
,
and
come
before
the
Cadi
,
who
says
to
the
Renegado
,
Art
thou
willing
to
turn
Musulman
.
After
he
has
reply'd
,
Yes
,
the
Isman
takes
the
Alcoran
in
both
his
Hands
,
and
holding
it
above
the
Christian's
Head
,
he
says
first
bis
millah
,
in
the
Name
of
God
;
then
addressing
himself
to
the
Christian
,
he
proceeds
thus
;
Allah
ecber
,
allah
ecber
,
allah
ecber
,
eschad
in
la
illah
,
illallah
,
eschad
in
Mebemet
resoul
allah
;
which
are
almost
the
same
Words
that
are
proclaim'd
by
the
Muezins
from
the
Minarets
or
Steeples
of
the
Mosquees
.
The
Renegado
replies
,
Illah
,
illallah
Mehemet
resoul
allah
;
There
is
no
other
God
,
and
Mahomet
is
his
great
Prophet
;
and
as
soon
as
he
has
made
a
public
Profession
of
his
Faith
by
pronouncing
these
Words
,
they
put
a
Turbant
on
his
Head
,
and
make
him
kiss
the
Alcoran
,
which
he
cou'd
not
do
before
without
a
Crime
.
Then
they
embrace
and
caress
him
,
and
put
all
things
in
order
for
the
Cavalcade
,
having
already
provided
two
or
three
Hundred
Men
,
arm'd
with
Sabres
,
Carabines
,
and
Pistols
,
with
six
Ensigns
,
two
of
which
march
before
,
and
the
other
four
surround
the
Renegado
,
who
is
almost
entirely
cover'd
by
'em
.
He
is
mounted
on
a
fine
Horse
,
which
the
Cadi
lends
him
,
adorn'd
with
a
rich
Vest
,
which
he
wears
all
the
rest
of
the
Day
.
The
Soldiers
march
four
in
a
Rank
,
expressing
their
Joy
by
loud
Shouts
and
repeated
Volleys
of
Shot
,
the
Renegado
walking
in
the
midst
of
'em
with
the
Ensigns
.
Thus
they
march
in
a
Triumphant
manner
thro'
the
City
;
but
all
this
Pomp
is
but
an
Introduction
to
the
Scene
of
Pain
,
for
as
soon
as
the
Triumph
is
over
,
they
proceed
to
Circumcision
,
which
is
thus
perform'd
:
They
draw
their
Prepuce
over
the
Glans
or
Nut
of
the
Yard
,
and
pressing
it
between
two
little
Pieces
of
Iron
,
they
cut
off
with
a
Razor
that
part
of
the
Fore-Skin
which
reaches
beyond
the
Glans
,
and
at
that
very
Moment
the
Apostate
must
once
more
repeat
these
Words
,
la
illah
illallah
,
Mehemet
resoul
allah
.
After
this
Ceremony
,
the
new
Musulman
must
keep
his
Bed
fifteen
Days
;
for
the
Cure
of
the
Wound
is
rarely
compleated
sooner
;
after
which
he
may
chuse
what
Imployment
he
pleases
;
that
is
,
he
may
either
List
himself
in
the
Army
,
or
enter
into
Service
,
tho'
such
Persons
usually
become
extremely
miserable
.
For
there
is
nothing
more
common
than
to
see
a
Renegado
begging
;
and
the
Turks
are
so
far
from
relieving
'em
in
their
Distress
,
that
the
very
Name
of
a
Renegado
is
sufficient
to
make
those
who
bear
it
hated
and
despis'd
,
not
only
by
the
Christians
,
who
look
upon
'em
as
base
and
cowardly
Apostates
,
but
even
by
the
Turks
,
who
can
never
be
persuaded
by
all
their
seeming
Devotion
that
they
are
sincere
Professors
of
the
Musulman
Faith
.
Thus
,
Sir
,
I
have
at
last
finish'd
the
Account
I
promis'd
to
give
you
of
this
Country
,
which
I
intend
to
leave
very
speedily
.
I
design
to
embark
on
a
French
Ship
,
which
,
with
another
Vessel
of
the
same
Nation
,
is
bound
for
Venice
,
from
whence
I
resolve
to
continue
my
Journey
to
Holland
by
Land
,
during
which
I
hope
my
Observations
will
furnish
me
with
fresh
Matter
to
entertain
you
now
and
then
with
a
Letter
.
I
thought
to
have
pass'd
by
Thessalonica
,
that
I
might
have
satisfy'd
my
Curiosity
with
a
View
of
a
very
considerable
Rarity
,
I
mean
the
Bones
of
a
Giant
that
were
found
by
some
Work-men
in
that
Place
,
as
they
were
digging
the
Foundations
of
a
House
for
the
Bassa
.
All
the
Chirurgeons
of
the
Country
have
examin'd
'em
,
and
have
given
in
a
formal
Attestation
in
which
they
conclude
that
these
are
the
real
Bones
of
a
Man
,
whose
Height
,
according
to
their
Computation
,
amounted
to
above
Twenty
Feet
;
so
that
this
may
be
look'd
upon
as
a
Confirmation
of
the
Story
of
the
Giant
at
Spire
in
Germany
.
But
I
must
e'en
content
my self
with
the
Accounts
I
have
heard
of
that
Curiosity
,
since
our
Captain
intends
not
to
touch
at
that
Place
.
I
shall
have
the
good
Fortune
during
our
Voyage
to
have
the
Conversation
of
one
Signior
Stephano
,
an
Italian
Engineer
,
who
having
spent
Eight
or
Ten
Years
in
the
Turkish
Service
,
is
not
willing
to
continue
longer
in
so
dangerous
a
Post
.
He
is
an
ingenious
and
witty
Person
,
and
will
doubtless
prove
a
very
agreeable
Companion
:
Besides
,
he
intends
to
carry
his
Wife
along
with
him
,
who
is
a
little
Greek
,
about
Eighteen
Years
old
,
and
the
prettyest
Creature
in
the
World
;
so
that
I
hope
to
pass
these
Seas
with
more
Pleasure
than
I
did
before
.
We
have
just
now
receiv'd
the
good
News
of
Count
Marsigli's
Recovery
,
with
which
I
shall
conclude
this
Letter
.
I
have
already
told
you
that
he
was
very
dangerously
wounded
,
and
am
glad
I
can
now
inform
you
that
the
Vigour
of
his
Constitution
,
and
the
Care
of
his
Physicians
,
have
happily
restor'd
him
to
his
Health
.
If
the
Malice
of
his
Enemies
had
succeeded
according
to
their
Desire
,
the
Emperor
wou'd
have
had
reason
to
bewail
the
Loss
of
a
Man
who
is
very
well
fitted
for
the
Management
of
important
Negotiations
.
He
was
born
at
Pisa
in
Italy
,
and
is
descended
of
a
very
considerable
Family
;
but
has
not
yet
been
dignify'd
with
any
other
Character
than
that
of
Secratary
to
the
English
Embassy
;
tho'
he
is
really
a
secret
Envoy
from
the
Emperor
,
and
only
assumes
the
other
Title
that
he
may
with
more
Security
negotiate
his
Master's
Affairs
.
But
if
the
Peace
were
concluded
,
he
wou'd
certainly
be
rewarded
with
a
higher
Post
.
I
am
,
SIR
,
Your
&c.
Smyrna
,
Octob.
1691.
LETTER
XXVI
.
SIR
,
OUR
present
Confinement
puts
me
in
mind
of
the
eager
Impatience
of
a
Lover
who
sees
,
but
dares
not
approach
his
Mistress
.
For
here
we
must
lie
in
the
Lazaretto
,
and
content
our selves
with
making
Court
to
the
Signora
Venetia
Bella
,
without
the
least
hope
of
enjoying
her
Beauties
,
till
we
have
purchas'd
the
Charming
Delight
at
the
rate
of
Forty
Days
sighing
and
whining
.
We
are
detain'd
here
by
an
Order
from
the
Tribunal
of
Health
,
least
we
shou'd
spread
some
Infectious
Distemper
;
and
I
among
the
rest
am
forc'd
to
bear
this
uneasie
Restraint
,
tho'
I
'm
at
present
in
as
perfect
Health
as
any
of
these
Cautious
Gentlemen
.
But
perhaps
you
'll
be
more
inquisitive
to
know
how
we
came
hither
,
than
how
we
spend
our
Time
here
;
and
therefore
I
shall
proceed
to
give
you
a
short
Account
of
our
Voyage
.
I
left
Smyrna
some
Days
after
the
writing
of
my
last
Letter
,
not
without
a
very
sensible
Affliction
at
my
taking
leave
of
Monsieur
and
Madam
de
Hochepied
,
from
whom
I
had
receiv'd
so
many
Favours
and
Civilities
during
my
abode
in
their
House
.
Our
Voyage
was
disturb'd
by
an
almost
perpetual
Storm
,
which
redoubling
its
Fury
from
Day
to
Day
,
made
us
conclude
more
than
once
that
we
shou'd
certainly
be
bury'd
in
the
Waves
.
Poor
Signior
Stephano
,
whom
I
mention'd
in
my
last
,
fell
sick
two
Days
after
he
embark'd
,
and
being
unable
to
bear
the
tempestuous
Working
of
the
Sea
,
dy'd
Eight
Days
after
.
The
Superstition
of
our
Ship
's
Crew
furnish'd
us
with
a
very
pleasant
Scene
;
for
they
unanimously
concluded
him
to
be
a
Sorcerer
,
because
they
had
seen
him
draw
some
Mathematical
Figures
during
the
first
two
Days
of
our
Voyage
,
and
were
absolutely
confirm'd
in
that
Opinion
by
a
curious
Mechanical
Experiment
he
happen'd
to
try
in
their
presence
,
by
lifting
up
a
very
considerable
Weight
with
one
Hand
,
which
those
thick-skull'd
Animals
thought
impossible
to
be
perform'd
without
the
Assistance
of
Magic
.
This
ridiculous
Conceit
made
so
strong
an
Impression
upon
upon
'em
,
that
they
slighted
all
the
Arguments
and
Asseverations
I
cou'd
use
to
undeceive
'em
,
and
not
only
persist
in
their
Belief
of
Signior
Stephano's
Skill
in
the
Diabolioal
Art
,
but
impute
all
the
bad
Weather
to
his
Conjurations
▪
The
Captain
pretends
to
be
of
the
same
Opinion
,
tho'
I
know
not
how
to
reconcile
his
Complaisance
to
the
young
Widow
to
the
Sentiments
he
seems
to
have
of
her
Husband
;
For
he
obliges
her
to
perform
her
Quarantain
on
Board
his
Ship
,
and
resolves
to
make
her
his
Wife
.
The
Storm
forc'd
us
to
stand
in
to
a
Canal
between
two
little
Islands
,
call'd
Millo
and
Argentiere
.
The
first
is
Forty
Miles
in
Compass
,
and
the
whole
Country
is
Mountainous
,
except
a
pleasant
and
fertil
Plain
,
six
or
seven
Miles
long
,
in
the
midst
of
which
stands
the
City
of
Millo
,
containing
about
Twenty
narrow
Streets
.
The
Inhabitants
are
generally
Greeks
;
but
there
are
also
3
or
400
Souls
of
the
Latin
Church
,
who
have
their
Bishop
and
Cathedral
.
The
Venetians
maintain
a
Podestat
in
the
Island
to
gather
the
Tribute
;
but
there
is
no
Garrison
kept
in
it
,
tho'
it
receives
frequent
Visits
from
the
Turks
;
so
that
the
first
Corsair
who
comes
with
a
numerous
Company
,
is
King
of
the
Island
so
long
as
he
pleases
to
reside
it
it
.
Yet
the
Pyrates
never
commit
any
disorders
in
this
place
,
by
reason
of
the
Assistance
they
receive
from
the
Merchants
that
live
here
,
who
furnish
'em
with
Commodities
to
be
paid
out
of
the
next
Prize
that
falls
into
their
Hands
.
There
is
a
French
Ordinary
in
the
Town
,
where
one
may
find
pretty
good
Entertainment
:
And
I
remember
I
saw
a
Man
there
of
so
free
and
open
a
Disposition
,
that
I
shou'd
have
thought
him
a
Rarity
in
that
Country
,
if
I
had
not
been
told
that
all
these
Islanders
are
generally
of
that
Humour
.
He
took
occasion
to
Discourse
of
a
Maid
who
was
his
Wife's
Daughter
,
and
declar'd
that
he
wou'd
willingly
dispose
of
her
to
a
Husband
.
One
who
was
present
lik'd
the
Proposal
,
and
told
him
that
he
wou'd
ease
him
of
the
Burden
if
he
pleas'd
to
bestow
her
upon
him
.
With
all
my
Heart
,
reply'd
the
Father
:
Then
,
said
the
other
,
I
desire
to
know
what
you
are
willing
to
give
with
her
.
What
d'
ye
●ean
,
reply'd
the
old
Gentleman
,
Give
with
her
,
●●oth
'
a
;
Why
,
I
wont
give
her self
for
nothing
.
You
most
take
me
for
a
silly
Coxcomb
indeed
,
if
you
think
I
'll
give
you
a
pretty
lively
Girl
,
and
hire
you
to
take
her
?
No
,
I
beg
your
pardon
,
't
is
you
must
give
the
Money
:
And
if
I
can
find
none
that
will
take
my
Daughter
on
these
Terms
,
I
'll
e'en
keep
her
,
and
make
use
of
her
my self
.
The
Women
are
so
accustom'd
to
the
Converse
of
the
Pyrates
,
that
they
are
generally
very
liberal
of
their
Favours
,
but
not
quite
so
frank
as
their
Neighbours
of
Argentiere
,
which
is
another
little
Island
,
about
Twenty
Miles
in
Compass
,
containing
only
a
little
Town
and
a
Village
,
both
inhabited
by
about
Five
hundred
Women
;
for
there
is
not
a
Man
in
the
Island
,
except
Seven
or
Eight
Papa's
,
who
perform
Divine
Service
.
These
Women
have
no
Trade
to
maintain
'em
,
but
live
purely
on
the
Work
of
Nature
;
so
that
all
the
Merchants
and
Corsairs
,
who
come
to
the
Island
,
chuse
a
Female-Companion
,
either
fair
or
brown
,
according
to
every
Man
's
particular
Fancy
.
The
Children
are
left
to
the
Disposal
of
the
Women
;
the
Girls
grow
up
and
work
to
maintain
their
Mothers
;
but
assoon
as
the
Boys
are
Twelve
Years
old
,
they
are
put
on
Board
the
first
Vessel
that
touches
at
the
Island
.
From
thence
we
continu'd
our
Voyage
to
Zant
,
a
considerable
Island
belonging
to
the
Venetians
.
It
contains
a
hundred
Miles
in
Compass
,
and
produces
great
Store
of
delicious
Wines
,
both
Muscadin
and
other
Sorts
.
But
since
Italy
is
sufficiently
stock'd
with
these
Commodities
,
the
Inhabitants
of
this
Island
dry
most
of
their
Grapes
,
and
send
'em
to
England
and
Holland
.
Both
the
City
and
Harbour
are
commanded
by
a
very
fine
Castle
,
where
the
Proveditore
,
who
is
always
chosen
out
of
the
Principal
Nobility
,
resides
.
The
Inhabitants
are
Rich
,
and
there
are
several
Gentlemen
among
'em
.
This
is
the
first
place
as
you
come
from
the
Archipelago
,
where
you
meet
with
People
cloath'd
after
the
manner
of
the
Franks
;
yet
many
of
'em
wear
a
Turkish
Vest
above
their
other
Cloaths
.
The
Venetians
have
built
several
Churches
for
the
Use
of
those
who
profess
the
Romish
Faith
;
and
do
what
they
can
to
establish
that
Religion
,
in
Opposition
to
that
of
the
Greeks
,
which
is
the
Religion
of
the
Natives
.
The
City
is
long
and
narrow
;
which
is
all
the
Account
I
can
give
you
of
it
,
for
those
who
come
from
the
Levant
are
not
suffer'd
to
go
a-shore
till
they
have
perform'd
their
Quarantain
.
The
Prince
of
Brunswick
,
who
serves
in
the
Army
of
the
Republick
,
pass'd
the
whole
last
Winter
in
this
place
;
and
gain'd
the
Love
of
the
Inhabitants
to
such
a
Degree
,
that
there
is
not
a
Man
of
'em
who
wou'd
not
sacrifice
himself
for
his
Sake
.
I
heard
a
Story
of
that
Prince
,
which
I
'm
confident
will
give
you
some
Diversion
.
He
fell
in
Love
with
a
very
Beautiful
Courtezan
,
who
treated
him
with
an
extraordinary
Coyness
;
either
because
she
had
a
particular
Aversion
to
him
,
or
(
which
is
the
more
probable
Reason
of
the
two
)
because
she
thought
he
was
very
deeply
engag'd
,
and
intended
to
make
him
pay
dear
for
a
Favour
which
he
desir'd
with
so
much
Ardour
.
But
whatever
was
the
true
Cause
of
her
Rigour
,
the
Prince
persisted
in
his
unsuccessful
Courtship
;
but
his
Patience
being
at
last
exhausted
,
he
resolv'd
upon
a
Stratagem
to
satisfie
at
once
both
his
Love
and
Revenge
:
There
are
in
Zant
certain
Porters
call'd
Cestariols
,
whose
Business
is
to
carry
home
the
Provisions
that
are
bought
by
the
Citizens
at
the
Market
.
The
irritated
Prince
procur'd
a
Cestariol's
Habit
,
which
disguis'd
him
so
well
that
he
had
no
Reason
to
fear
a
Discovery
.
In
that
Dress
he
went
to
the
Courtezan's
Waiting-Maid
,
and
told
her
,
that
he
was
so
passionately
in
Love
with
her
Mistress
,
that
he
shou'd
certainly
lose
his
Reason
if
she
wou'd
not
suffer
her self
to
be
touch'd
with
a
compassionate
Sense
of
his
Sufferings
.
And
to
engage
the
Maid
to
employ
her
Interest
in
his
Favour
,
he
presented
her
with
Ten
Sequins
,
which
amount
to
about
Five
and
twenty
Crowns
;
and
assur'd
her
that
if
by
her
Assistance
he
cou'd
procure
one
Night's
Pleasure
,
he
wou'd
give
her
as
many
Sequins
more
,
and
wou'd
besides
reward
the
Signora
so
liberally
,
that
she
shou'd
never
have
Reason
to
repent
her
Condescension
to
him
.
The
Maid
was
extremely
surpriz'd
at
the
Cestariol's
Bounty
:
however
she
forgot
not
to
deliver
his
Message
to
her
Mistress
,
who
seem'd
to
receive
it
very
coldly
;
for
she
thought
such
an
Action
wou'd
make
her
be
look'd
upon
as
a
common
Prostitute
.
But
the
Maid
,
who
perhaps
was
not
so
scrupulous
,
and
had
so
considerable
an
Interest
in
the
Success
of
this
Affair
,
us'd
all
the
Arguments
she
cou'd
invent
,
to
perswade
her
Mistress
to
a
Compliance
,
and
concluded
her
Exhortations
with
this
wise
and
prevailing
Remark
,
That
a
Cestariol
with
a
full
Purse
wou'd
prove
a
better
Customer
than
a
Proveditore
with
an
empty
one
;
adding
,
that
the
Mistress
might
expect
a
very
Noble
Acknowledgment
from
one
that
had
been
so
liberal
to
the
Maid
.
These
sage
Remonstrances
had
so
good
an
Effect
,
that
the
Cestariol
was
introduc'd
in
the
Evening
to
the
Signora's
Chamber
,
where
he
quickly
storm'd
the
Place
that
had
so
long
withstood
his
Attacks
.
'T
wou'd
be
as
needless
to
give
you
a
more
particular
Account
of
his
Night's
Work
,
as
it
wou'd
be
to
represent
the
Confusion
and
Astonisment
that
seiz'd
the
Fair
One
in
the
Morning
,
when
she
saw
her
Chamber
full
of
Servants
that
came
to
dress
her
Bed-fellow
,
and
found
that
the
pretended
Cestariol
was
transform'd
into
the
Prince
of
Brunswick
.
However
she
endeavour'd
to
set
the
best
Face
she
cou'd
on
so
cross
an
Adventure
,
and
comforted
her self
with
the
Expectation
of
a
magnificent
Reward
.
But
she
cou'd
no
longer
conceal
the
Discomposure
of
her
Mind
,
when
instead
of
a
Handful
of
Sequins
the
Prince
presented
her
with
Three-pence
,
adding
,
That
if
she
had
entertain'd
him
as
a
Prince
,
he
wou'd
have
paid
her
as
a
Prince
;
but
since
she
had
only
treated
him
as
a
Porter
,
she
must
content
her self
with
Porter's
Wages
.
Departing
from
Zant
,
we
left
Corfou
on
our
Left-hand
,
and
enter'd
the
Gulf
,
at
the
Mouth
of
which
we
lost
our
Long-Boat
in
a
Storm
.
The
Fury
of
the
Tempest
being
somewhat
abated
,
we
continu'd
our
Course
with
a
Side-Wind
,
and
about
Midnight
perceiv'd
,
by
the
Light
of
the
Moon
,
a
Sail
,
which
pass'd
very
near
our
Ship
without
haling
us
.
But
she
had
scarce
left
us
half
a
Mile
when
she
tack'd
about
,
and
bore
down
upon
us
with
full
Sails
;
and
since
she
was
lighter
than
our
Vessel
,
she
quickly
came
up
with
us
.
Our
Captain
concluding
that
she
design'd
to
attack
us
,
commanded
every
Man
to
his
Post
,
and
put
all
things
in
a
Readiness
for
an
Engagement
,
swearing
that
he
wou'd
fire
at
her
,
if
she
came
nearer
.
Some
of
the
Seamen
endeavour'd
to
perswade
him
that
a
Corsair
wou'd
hardly
venture
to
cruize
in
the
Gulf
;
and
that
if
the
Vessel
we
fear'd
had
had
such
a
Design
,
she
wou'd
have
either
fir'd
at
us
,
or
boarded
us
as
she
pass'd
by
.
But
he
continu'd
fix'd
in
his
Resolution
,
telling
'em
that
he
plac'd
more
Confidence
in
his
Guns
than
in
their
Arguments
;
and
that
if
the
Captain
did
not
know
his
own
Business
,
he
wou'd
endeavour
to
instruct
him
.
And
indeed
he
kept
his
Word
,
for
assoon
as
cou'd
have
a
full
Aim
to
point
his
Guns
at
her
Side
,
he
gave
her
a
Broad-side
,
and
tacking
about
,
rak'd
her
fore
and
aft
:
but
it
seems
she
was
better
acquainted
with
the
Rules
of
Good-breeding
than
we
expected
,
for
she
quickly
return'd
our
Compliment
with
the
same
Ceremonies
,
and
then
bore
away
.
Our
Cabbin
was
pierc'd
with
a
Shot
,
which
was
all
the
Dammage
we
receiv'd
,
except
the
breaking
of
a
Barrel
of
excellent
Wine
,
which
I
had
provided
at
Zant
for
my
own
Use
,
during
the
Quarantain
.
Two
Days
after
we
made
the
Height
of
Ragusa
,
which
is
a
considerable
City
seated
on
the
Sea-side
;
Toward
the
Sea
't
is
defended
by
a
strong
Cittadel
,
and
on
the
other
Side
by
a
high
and
inaccessible
Mountain
.
It
s
Figure
is
almost
round
,
and
its
Circuit
exceeds
not
two
Miles
.
The
Houses
are
generally
pretty
well
built
;
but
there
are
none
that
deserve
a
particular
Observation
.
The
Government
is
Aristocratical
,
not
much
different
from
that
of
Venice
,
only
its
Weakness
makes
it
act
more
cautiously
for
the
Preservation
of
its
Liberty
.
The
Senate
is
compos'd
of
Gentlemen
and
a
Doge
:
but
this
Dignity
instead
of
continuing
for
Life
,
as
at
Venice
,
lasts
but
a
Month
,
after
which
a
New
Doge
is
Elected
with
so
little
Intriguing
,
that
oftentimes
a
Gentleman
walking
in
the
Public
Place
,
is
surpriz'd
with
the
News
of
his
Election
.
During
the
time
of
his
Government
he
is
serv'd
and
entertain'd
at
the
Public
Charge
,
after
which
he
returns
home
to
dress
his
Garden
.
Since
the
Government
of
the
Castle
is
a
more
important
Office
,
and
the
Ill-management
of
it
might
prove
more
fatal
to
the
Republic
,
it
lasts
not
so
long
as
the
former
:
for
a
New
Governour
is
chosen
every
Night
,
and
oblig'd
to
remain
in
the
Castle
till
his
Successour
come
to
relieve
him
.
So
that
the
Nobles
reckon
this
Commission
rather
a
Trouble
than
an
Honour
;
and
wou'd
be
as
glad
to
be
exempted
from
it
,
as
a
Captain
wou'd
be
pleas'd
to
be
excus'd
from
mounting
the
Guard
.
The
Garrison
consists
of
Two
hundred
Men
,
and
besides
the
Burgers
are
oblig'd
to
keep
Guard
with
'em
.
The
Gentlemen
are
exempted
from
that
Trouble
,
but
they
must
not
lie
one
Night
out
of
the
City
without
a
special
Permission
.
S.
Blaise
is
the
Patron
of
Ragusa
,
as
S.
Mark
is
of
Venice
:
and
is
painted
on
their
Banners
and
Ensigns
,
and
wherever
't
is
the
Custom
to
place
the
Arms
of
the
Republic
.
A
Mile
from
the
Town
towards
the
Mouth
of
the
Gulf
,
stands
the
ancient
City
of
Ragusa
,
which
at
present
is
call'd
Ragusa
Vecchio
.
'T
is
inhabited
by
some
poor
People
,
and
seems
rather
to
be
a
Village
than
a
City
.
The
whole
Territory
of
Ragusa
extends
not
Thirty
Miles
round
the
City
,
and
at
Sea
they
are
only
possess'd
of
the
Island
of
Augusta
.
This
little
Republic
makes
a
great
Noise
with
a
certain
imaginary
Liberty
,
of
which
the
Ragusans
are
extremely
fond
,
tho'
really
they
are
not
Masters
of
themselves
;
for
they
are
absolutely
commanded
by
the
Venetians
,
and
must
do
what
whatever
they
please
.
The
Turk
and
Emperour
content
themselves
with
a
moderate
Tribute
,
without
medling
with
the
Affairs
of
the
Republic
;
but
if
the
Payment
be
delay'd
,
the
Ragusans
run
the
the
Hazard
of
paying
dear
for
their
Neglect
.
And
besides
they
are
on
several
Occasions
insulted
over
by
the
French
King
,
and
other
European
Princes
;
and
must
tamely
suffer
the
greatest
Abuses
,
without
daring
to
repine
at
the
Hand
which
oppresses
'em
.
I
have
all
along
observ'd
,
during
the
whole
Course
of
my
Travels
,
that
one
may
find
every-where
fresh
Instances
of
the
Folly
and
Weakness
of
human
Nature
:
and
the
very
Sight
of
this
Place
is
sufficient
to
put
a
Man
in
mind
of
that
Reflexion
.
For
't
is
certain
that
the
Liberty
or
Independency
of
the
Ragusans
,
as
well
as
of
several
other
States
,
is
their
greatest
Misfortune
;
and
that
they
wou'd
be
infinitely
more
happy
under
the
Dominion
of
some
potent
Master
,
that
cou'd
protect
'em
from
all
the
Injuries
and
Affronts
which
they
are
daily
oblig'd
to
suffer
without
the
least
Hope
of
Redress
.
And
I
'm
confident
,
if
you
consider
,
without
Prejudice
,
the
Advantages
on
both
sides
,
you
will
conclude
with
me
,
That
,
notwithstanding
their
boasted
Liberty
,
a
Wise
Man
wou'd
rather
chuse
to
be
a
Subject
of
Venice
,
than
to
be
a
Free
Citizen
of
Ragusa
.
But
to
return
to
my
Voyage
.
The
Wind
coming
fair
,
we
left
Ragusa
,
and
the
next
Morning
we
came
to
an
Anchor
in
the
Harbour
of
the
little
City
Parenzo
in
Istria
,
where
we
took
a
Pilot.
For
the
Republick
keeps
always
a
sufficient
Number
of
Pilots
in
this
place
,
for
the
Conveniency
of
Ships
that
are
bound
for
Venice
;
which
are
oblig'd
to
have
Recourse
to
their
Assistance
,
because
from
thence
to
the
Lagunes
the
Passage
is
extremely
hazardous
,
by
reason
of
the
Banks
of
Sand
that
are
form'd
by
the
Rivers
Po
and
Brent
at
their
Falling
into
the
Sea
.
These
Banks
are
so
dangerous
,
and
subject
to
so
frequent
Alterations
,
that
the
most
skilful
Pilots
,
who
are
acquainted
with
every
Rock
and
Shoal
in
the
Passage
,
are
forc'd
to
steer
perpetually
with
a
Line
in
their
Hand
,
for
fear
of
some
fatal
Blunder
,
which
wou'd
certainly
be
punish'd
with
Death
.
The
Difficulty
of
the
Passage
is
a
very
considerable
Disadvantage
and
Obstruction
to
Trade
;
but
it
may
be
reckon'd
the
main
Security
of
Venice
,
which
cannot
be
attack'd
on
that
Side
.
For
tho'
a
Fleet
of
Ships
shou'd
be
conducted
to
Malamoca
by
Venetian
Pilots
,
't
wou'd
be
impossible
for
'em
to
ride
there
,
by
reason
of
the
stormy
Gusts
that
happen
so
frequently
in
that
place
.
After
the
charming
View
of
Constantinople
from
the
Sea
of
Marmora
,
I
never
beheld
a
finer
Prospect
than
that
of
Venice
.
At
the
Distance
of
Thirty
Miles
you
begin
to
perceive
the
Spires
of
the
Churches
,
and
the
Prospect
is
still
enlarg'd
the
nearer
you
approach
;
which
gives
the
ravish'd
Spectatour
the
Idea
of
a
Great
City
springing
out
of
the
Water
.
Nor
can
you
possibly
free
your self
from
this
pleasant
Delusion
of
the
Fancy
till
you
have
enter'd
the
Town
;
for
all
the
outer
Houses
of
the
City
are
founded
on
Piles
in
the
midst
of
the
Water
.
The
Port
of
Venice
is
a
large
Plain
cover'd
with
Water
,
in
which
there
are
certain
Islands
or
Rising-Grounds
,
level
with
the
Water
,
on
the
biggest
of
which
Venice
is
built
.
most
of
the
other
Islands
are
also
cover'd
with
Buildings
,
and
make
particular
Towns
;
the
most
considerable
of
which
is
call'd
Judeca
,
or
the
Jews
Quarter
.
'T
is
said
to
contain
Forty
thousand
Souls
;
the
Houses
are
fair
,
and
there
are
large
Gardens
,
whither
the
Inhabitants
go
to
divert
themselves
during
the
Summer
,
and
are
accommodated
with
all
sorts
of
Provisions
,
cool
Liquors
,
and
oftentimes
with
very
agreeable
Company
.
The
curious
Traveller
ought
also
to
take
a
View
of
the
Island
of
Mouran
,
where
the
fine
Looking-Glasses
are
made
that
are
so
famous
over
all
Europe
;
besides
several
other
Curious
Works
in
Glass
and
Crystal
.
These
Islands
are
call'd
Lacunes
or
Lagunes
,
both
such
as
are
,
and
such
as
are
not
,
inhabited
.
Two
of
'em
are
set
apart
for
the
use
of
those
who
come
from
the
Levant
,
where
they
are
oblig'd
to
perform
their
Quarantain
in
certain
large
Hospitals
,
call'd
Lazaretti
.
The
first
,
call'd
Lazaretto
Vecchio
,
is
but
a
Mile
distant
from
Venice
;
but
the
other
,
where
we
are
confin'd
,
is
five
Miles
from
the
City
.
'T
is
one
continu'd
Building
,
consisting
of
two
Stories
,
300
Paces
long
,
and
divided
by
High
Walls
into
six
Apartments
,
each
of
which
has
a
particular
Gate
that
leads
into
a
Square
Court
,
where
there
is
a
Well
,
but
the
Water
is
so
bad
,
that
we
never
use
any
but
what
is
brought
from
Venice
.
Every
Apartment
contains
Twenty
Chambers
,
Ten
above
,
and
as
many
below
,
separated
like
Cells
,
with
a
Chimney
in
each
.
Those
who
perform
their
Quarantain
are
constantly
attended
by
a
Guardian
or
Keeper
,
sent
for
that
purpose
by
the
Tribunal
of
Health
.
And
we
have
the
Misfortune
to
be
plagu'd
with
one
who
mortifies
us
extremely
:
For
he
not
only
denies
us
the
Liberty
of
conversing
familiarly
with
those
who
come
to
see
us
,
but
will
not
suffer
us
to
approach
within
Ten
Paces
of
'em
;
and
besides
,
they
are
oblig'd
to
take
the
Wind
of
us
.
No
Person
whatsoever
,
nor
even
the
Doge
himself
,
is
exempted
from
these
troublesome
Severities
,
which
are
appointed
for
the
Publick
Security
,
and
for
the
Preservation
of
the
City
from
contagious
Distempers
.
But
tho'
we
are
not
permitted
to
entertain
those
who
are
without
the
Lazaretto
,
there
are
some
things
which
they
are
allow'd
to
receive
from
us
,
such
as
Bread
,
Wine
,
Vessels
,
Tobacco
,
Money
,
Wood
,
and
generally
every
thing
that
does
not
consist
of
Threads
.
And
yet
,
which
in
my
Opinion
is
the
most
intolerable
piece
of
Nicety
in
the
World
,
they
will
not
suffer
a
Letter
to
come
out
of
our
Hands
till
it
be
open'd
and
smoak'd
:
And
I
was
even
forc'd
to
open
Monsieur
de
Hochepied's
Letters
to
his
Friends
in
Holland
;
so
that
I
shall
be
oblig'd
to
deliver
'em
unseal'd
to
the
Persons
to
whom
they
are
directed
.
When
a
Man
comes
to
lodge
in
one
of
these
Rooms
,
he
finds
nothing
but
Four
bare
Walls
,
and
must
therefore
buy
an
entire
Set
of
necessary
Furniture
:
But
as
for
Provisions
,
there
are
Barcarioli
,
who
bring
whatever
you
call
for
,
allowing
'em
a
third
part
of
the
Price
for
their
Pains
.
Every
Man
must
be
his
own
Cook
,
a
Disadvantage
which
is
more
easily
supported
here
than
any
where
else
;
for
our
Time
is
so
great
a
Burthen
to
us
,
that
we
are
glad
of
any
Occupation
;
and
that
which
in
another
Place
would
be
reckon'd
a
Trouble
,
is
esteem'd
a
Recreation
here
.
The
Lazaretto
is
govern'd
by
a
Prior
,
appointed
by
the
Tribunal
of
Health
.
His
Revenue
amounts
to
a
Thousand
Ducats
,
worth
about
3
s.
9
d.
a-piece
.
He
is
entrusted
with
the
Keys
of
the
six
Apartments
,
which
are
kept
shut
from
Sun-setting
till
Eight
a-Clock
in
the
Morning
.
The
Guardians
are
under
his
Command
,
and
are
oblig'd
to
give
him
an
Account
of
every
thing
.
There
are
120
of
'em
in
Office
,
who
are
employ'd
by
Turns
,
according
to
the
Number
of
Ships
that
arrive
in
the
Port.
Their
Salary
,
which
amounts
to
half
a
Ducat
a-Day
,
besides
their
Entertainment
,
is
not
paid
by
the
Republic
,
but
by
a
Tax
laid
upon
the
Passengers
and
Goods
that
are
committed
to
their
Care
.
In
the
same
Lagune
there
is
a
large
Enclosure
where
the
Goods
are
laid
in
a
sort
of
Stalls
or
Market-Houses
,
supported
by
Pillars
without
Walls
,
and
open
on
all
Sides
.
And
there
are
Faquini
or
Porters
appointed
to
remove
'em
from
time
to
time
,
and
to
take
care
that
nothing
be
lost
or
damag'd
.
You
have
doubtless
heard
of
the
great
Number
of
Spies
that
are
kept
by
the
Senate
to
give
notice
of
every
thing
that
is
said
or
done
against
the
Government
.
These
Informers
are
a
horrible
Plague
to
those
who
are
under
the
Dominion
of
this
Republick
,
as
well
natural
Venetians
as
Greeks
.
For
the
least
Offence
exposes
a
Man
to
the
Severity
of
the
Inquisition
of
the
State
,
which
is
at
least
as
terrible
a
Tribunal
as
that
of
Rome
.
Nor
is
it
possible
for
a
Man
to
know
when
he
shou'd
be
upon
his
Guard
;
for
those
who
profess
the
greatest
Friendship
and
Fidelity
,
are
oftentimes
mere
Informers
.
And
besides
,
there
are
Spies
of
all
Ranks
and
Orders
;
Servants
,
Merchants
,
Officers
,
Citizens
,
and
Nobles
,
who
disguise
themselves
with
so
much
Care
and
Dexterity
,
that
't
is
impossible
to
penetrate
into
their
hidden
Designs
.
The
Republic
is
so
cautious
in
preventing
Discoveries
of
this
Nature
,
that
those
who
undertake
such
a
Commission
are
enjoyn'd
to
conceal
it
even
from
their
Wives
and
Children
,
under
pain
of
suffering
the
most
rigorous
Penalties
.
And
the
Scandal
and
Odium
that
attends
their
Profession
is
alone
sufficient
to
oblige
'em
to
Secresie
,
tho'
they
were
not
kept
in
awe
by
the
Fear
of
Punishment
.
This
breeds
an
universal
Diffidence
and
Shieness
among
all
sorts
of
People
,
and
makes
'em
extremely
reserv'd
in
discovering
their
Sentiments
to
one
another
,
especially
in
the
presence
of
certain
Persons
who
are
more
particularly
suspected
,
such
as
Monks
,
and
the
Guardians
of
Health
in
the
Lazaretti
,
who
are
generally
reckon'd
to
be
the
Inquisitor's
Spies
,
and
I
believe
not
without
reason
,
as
you
will
perceive
by
the
Relation
of
an
Accident
that
happen'd
to
my self
.
As
soon
as
a
Vessel
enters
the
Port
,
the
Tribunal
of
Health
sends
immediately
a
Guardian
with
a
Phanti
on
board
to
conduct
the
Passengers
to
the
Lazaretto
,
that
no
time
may
be
lost
;
for
the
Quarantain
is
not
reputed
to
begin
till
the
Day
after
they
come
a-shore
.
But
tho'
this
Custom
is
very
exactly
observ'd
on
all
Occasions
,
there
arose
a
Dispute
in
our
Ship
about
some
Matters
relating
to
Trade
,
that
retarded
our
Landing
Four
Days
,
which
consequently
were
not
reckon'd
in
the
Forty
Days
of
our
Quarantain
.
This
Delay
occasion'd
a
general
Discontent
among
us
,
and
we
were
the
more
sensibly
afflicted
,
because
we
neither
foresaw
nor
knew
how
to
remedy
our
Misfortunes
.
However
,
the
Greeks
and
Venetians
whom
he
had
take
on
board
at
Zant
,
conceal'd
their
Resentments
with
all
possible
Care
.
But
I
who
was
not
so
well
acquainted
with
the
Customs
of
the
Place
,
and
perhaps
am
naturally
of
too
free
a
Humour
,
cou'd
not
forbear
complaining
of
this
Injustice
that
was
done
us
,
and
was
even
so
far
transported
,
that
I
express'd
my
Impatience
and
Indignation
in
very
bold
and
emphatic
Terms
.
In
the
mean
time
I
was
extremely
surpriz'd
to
perceive
an
universal
Silence
among
those
who
heard
me
,
and
was
so
vex'd
to
find
that
none
of
'em
wou'd
join
with
me
,
that
at
last
I
held
my
Peace
.
An
Hour
after
,
the
Captain
took
me
aside
,
and
told
me
that
I
was
ruin'd
:
I
entreated
him
to
let
me
know
the
reason
that
made
him
give
me
so
unwelcom
an
Admonition
:
Because
,
reply'd
he
,
you
have
spoken
disadvantageously
of
the
Government
before
a
Guardian
,
who
is
certainly
an
Informer
;
adding
,
that
he
wou'd
not
have
spoken
so
freely
for
a
Hundred
thousand
Crowns
.
Then
he
related
five
or
six
Tragical
Stories
of
Persons
that
had
lost
their
Lives
for
less
provoking
Crimes
,
and
added
so
many
Arguments
to
convince
me
of
my
Danger
,
that
I
began
to
be
afraid
in
good
earnest
,
and
to
complain
of
his
Unkindness
in
not
giving
me
more
timely
warning
.
He
reply'd
,
that
he
ne'er
thought
of
it
,
and
that
he
cou'd
not
imagine
me
to
be
ignorant
of
a
thing
that
was
so
universally
known
.
The
only
way
I
can
suggest
to
you
,
added
he
,
to
prevent
your
Ruine
,
is
to
be
silent
for
the
future
,
and
to
bribe
the
Guardian
with
a
Present
,
which
perhaps
will
stop
his
Mouth
.
In
pursuance
of
his
Advice
,
I
gave
the
Guardian
two
Sequins
,
and
endeavour'd
to
oblige
him
by
all
the
Marks
of
Friendship
and
Kindness
during
the
two
days
we
remain'd
on
Board
after
that
Accident
.
Yet
after
all
,
he
inform'd
against
me
,
at
least
I
had
reason
to
suspect
him
;
for
the
Prior
told
me
t'other
Day
,
that
the
Inquisitor
had
spoken
concerning
me
,
and
had
signify'd
to
him
,
that
there
was
a
very
turbulent
and
impatient
Frenchman
in
his
Lazaretto
.
This
Reprimand
abated
,
instead
of
encreasing
,
my
Fears
,
for
the
Inquisitor
wou●d
not
have
spoken
to
the
Prior
,
if
he
had
intended
to
punish
my
Boldness
.
However
,
this
Accident
shall
teach
me
Circumspection
for
the
future
;
and
may
serve
for
a
Warning
to
such
of
your
Friends
whose
Curiosity
may
incite
'em
to
visit
this
Place
in
their
Travels
:
For
Strangers
are
in
a
more
particular
manner
expos'd
to
the
Severities
of
that
dreadful
Tribunal
;
and
I
'm
persuaded
that
such
indiscreet
Expressions
have
oftentimes
prov'd
fatal
to
Travellers
.
I
am
,
SIR
,
Your
,
&c.
Lazaretto
at
Venice
,
Decemb.
1691.
LETTER
XXVII
.
SIR
,
AT
last
I
have
obtain'd
my
Liberty
,
and
have
bidden
a
joyful
Farewel
to
that
nasty
Lazaretto
,
where
I
was
forc'd
to
do
so
tedious
a
Penance
for
my
Sins
.
And
since
I
have
reason
to
believe
that
all
my
Transgressions
are
blotted
out
by
so
severe
a
Mortification
,
I
'm
e'en
resolv'd
to
venture
upon
a
New
Score
:
There
is
not
a
Town
in
the
World
so
full
of
Invitations
as
this
:
I
see
every
Day
such
charming
and
enflaming
Objects
at
the
Opera
,
Ridotti
,
and
whither
so
ever
I
go
,
that
a
less
sensible
Heart
than
mine
cou'd
not
long
resist
the
powerful
Temptation
.
There
is
a
greater
Number
of
lovely
Women
here
than
in
any
other
Place
of
Europe
,
and
their
Charms
are
more
alluring
.
Three
Divinities
seem
to
contend
which
of
'em
shou'd
contribute
most
to
the
Embellishment
of
a
City
where
they
have
fix'd
the
Seats
of
their
several
Empires
.
Venus
makes
it
the
Scene
of
all
the
soft
Delights
of
Beauty
and
Love
;
Apollo
displays
the
ravishing
Variety
of
his
belov'd
Harmony
;
and
Momus
charms
both
the
Eye
and
Ear
with
splendid
Masks
and
ingenious
and
witty
Comedies
.
Venice
is
a
Cluster
of
inchanted
Islands
,
where
Joy
and
Pleasure
have
establishd
their
peaceful
Sway
,
without
the
least
Disturbance
from
tumultuary
or
gloomy
Passions
.
'T
is
all
over
charming
;
every
Object
inspires
Love
,
and
fills
the
Mind
with
a
resistless
and
surprizing
Delight
.
But
I
must
not
forget
that
I
write
to
one
who
is
too
inquisitive
to
be
satisfy'd
with
general
Hints
;
and
therefore
I
shall
proceed
to
give
you
a
particular
Account
of
this
admirable
City
.
I
intended
to
have
begun
my
Letter
with
the
Story
of
a
pleasant
Accident
that
happen'd
to
one
of
my
Friends
at
our
coming
out
of
the
Lazaretto
,
where
he
perform'd
his
Quarantain
with
me
;
but
tho'
I
am
not
often
guilty
of
a
scrupulous
Niceness
in
observing
the
Rules
of
an
exact
Method
,
I
'm
loath
on
this
Occasion
to
invert
the
Order
I
intend
to
follow
in
the
Description
of
the
City
;
and
therefore
I
shall
defer
the
Relation
of
my
Friend's
Adventure
,
till
I
come
to
speak
of
the
Venetian
Curtezans
.
The
Observation
I
made
concerning
Constantinople
and
Cairo
,
may
with
equal
Justice
be
apply'd
to
Venice
,
and
in
the
general
to
all
great
and
populous
Cities
;
that
there
are
very
different
Opinions
concerning
their
Extent
,
and
the
Number
of
their
Inhabitants
.
Nor
is
this
Controversie
so
easily
decided
as
some
Persons
imagine
:
For
when
did
ever
a
Traveller
undertake
to
count
the
Streets
of
a
great
City
?
Or
what
more
can
the
most
inquisitive
Stranger
do
than
to
measure
the
Dimensions
of
a
Publick
Place
,
or
of
a
Temple
?
Judge
then
whether
any
one
can
make
a
certain
Computation
of
the
Number
of
the
Houses
,
or
of
the
Persons
that
inhabit
'em
.
And
I
may
venture
to
add
,
that
none
but
a
Soveraign
is
able
to
manage
such
a
Design
;
and
that
the
exactest
Calculations
that
can
be
made
by
Private
Persons
,
are
mere
uncertain
Conjectures
,
that
can
never
be
true
but
by
a
lucky
Hit
,
on
which
there
can
be
no
dependance
.
The
same
may
be
said
of
the
Bigness
of
a
City
,
which
ought
rather
to
be
computed
from
the
Figure
,
than
from
the
Extent
of
its
Circumference
:
And
't
is
so
difficult
a
Task
to
find
and
describe
the
true
Figure
of
a
Town
,
that
the
Inhabitants
themselves
are
ignorant
of
it
.
How
many
different
Judgments
are
made
of
the
comparative
Bigness
of
London
and
Paris
?
Yet
every
Man
thinks
his
own
Opinion
true
;
and
the
same
Remark
may
be
apply'd
to
all
other
large
Cities
.
I
will
not
undertake
then
to
determine
so
intricate
a
Controversie
,
but
shall
content
my self
with
acquainting
you
,
that
Venice
,
as
to
its
Extent
,
may
,
in
my
Opinion
,
be
compar'd
to
Rome
,
that
the
Streets
are
Narrow
,
the
Ground
extremely
well
Husbanded
,
and
the
Houses
full
of
People
to
the
very
Top.
It
has
neither
Gates
,
Walls
,
nor
Cittadel
,
and
yet
cannot
be
justly
said
to
be
Weak
.
'T
is
esteem'd
impregnable
by
many
Authors
,
and
that
Opinion
is
so
generally
receiv'd
,
that
you
shall
hardly
hear
any
Man
give
an
Account
of
Venice
without
that
Encomium
at
the
End
of
it
.
The
Venetians
themselves
tell
the
Story
so
often
,
that
at
last
they
imagine
it
to
be
a
certain
Truth
,
and
wou'd
fain
persuade
others
to
be
of
the
same
Opinion
.
But
tho'
they
alledge
some
Reasons
in
Confirmation
of
that
Assertion
,
they
must
not
expect
to
make
us
swallow
'em
by
an
implicit
Faith
.
At
least
I
can
assure
you
,
their
Arguments
have
made
no
great
Impression
upon
me
;
for
I
cou'd
never
boast
so
strong
a
Faith
as
to
give
Credit
to
an
obvious
Absurdity
.
However
,
Experience
has
taught
me
so
much
Wisdom
,
that
I
shall
hardly
venture
to
own
my
Opinion
in
this
Case
during
my
abode
here
.
Let
'em
magnifie
their
City
beyond
all
the
Forts
in
the
World
,
and
defie
the
Ambition
of
the
most
potent
Sovereigns
in
Europe
;
their
Arrogance
shall
never
extort
one
indiscreet
Word
from
me
so
long
as
I
remain
within
the
reach
of
the
Inquisition
:
But
as
soon
as
I
can
set
my
Foot
beyond
the
Limits
of
their
Dominions
,
I
shall
e'en
make
bold
to
talk
as
freely
to
any
Man
of
the
boasted
Strength
of
their
City
,
as
I
now
intend
to
write
to
you
.
You
may
remember
I
acknowledg'd
that
Venice
is
impregnable
on
the
Side
next
the
Sea
,
and
gave
you
an
Account
of
the
Reasons
which
inclin'd
me
to
be
of
that
Opinion
.
But
I
'm
fully
persuaded
that
't
is
not
impossible
to
attack
it
with
Success
on
the
other
side
,
unless
it
be
defended
by
an
Army
strong
enough
to
baffle
all
the
Attempts
of
the
Besiegers
,
in
which
Case
,
I
must
confess
,
it
may
be
said
to
be
impregnable
;
but
upon
the
same
Supposition
any
Town
in
the
World
may
plead
a
Right
to
that
Title
:
Whereas
a
Place
that
may
be
properly
call'd
impregnable
,
must
be
strong
enough
to
endure
a
Siege
two
or
three
Years
without
Relief
;
that
is
,
it
must
be
able
to
resist
any
Enemy
but
Famine
,
which
is
a
necessary
Consequence
of
a
long
and
close
Siege
.
I
confess
there
are
very
few
such
Places
in
the
World
;
yet
I
have
seen
one
,
I
mean
Malta
,
and
't
is
probable
there
are
some
other
Forts
which
merit
the
same
Character
.
As
for
those
Places
that
may
be
subdu'd
by
Force
,
tho'
not
without
extreme
Difficulty
,
they
may
and
ought
to
be
call'd
Strong
,
but
cannot
justly
be
said
to
be
Impregnable
.
Yet
the
last
of
these
Epithets
is
very
frequently
abus'd
and
misapply'd
;
for
't
is
as
usual
to
honour
a
Place
with
that
Title
,
as
't
is
rare
to
find
one
that
deserves
it
.
If
this
be
the
true
meaning
of
the
controverted
Term
,
and
if
none
but
such
Places
as
these
can
be
properly
said
to
be
impregnable
,
as
't
is
plain
they
cannot
;
I
know
no
reason
that
shou'd
hinder
me
from
excluding
Venice
out
of
that
Number
.
It
seems
to
be
no
very
difficult
Undertaking
to
seize
on
the
Lido
and
Malamoca
,
two
inhabited
Islands
,
and
by
securing
those
Posts
,
to
intercept
the
Communication
of
the
City
with
the
Sea
,
and
to
cut
off
all
Relief
that
might
be
expected
that
way
.
An
Army
might
also
soon
take
Possession
of
several
little
uninhabited
Lagunes
about
Venice
,
from
whence
the
City
might
be
easily
batter'd
and
bombarded
;
and
God
knows
what
Havock
the
Bombs
wou'd
make
in
so
compact
a
City
as
this
.
And
besides
,
the
Multitude
of
the
Inhabitants
wou'd
quickly
expose
'em
to
all
the
Desolations
that
are
usually
caus'd
by
Famine
.
I
confess
the
Arsenal
is
so
well
furnish'd
that
all
the
Burghers
might
be
arm'd
in
Four
and
twenty
Hours
;
but
what
use
cou'd
they
make
of
their
Arms
in
a
Town
which
in
case
of
a
Siege
wou'd
instantly
be
turn'd
to
a
Prison
:
For
there
is
no
cover'd
Way
thro'
which
they
cou'd
sally
out
upon
their
Enemies
;
and
tho'
they
cou'd
contrive
one
,
the
Citizens
of
Venice
wou'd
make
but
a
very
feeble
resistance
.
I
have
so
mean
an
Opinion
of
their
Military
accomplishments
,
that
I
dare
boldly
affirm
that
Ten
thousand
well-discipln'd
Soldiers
wou'd
do
more
execution
than
a
Hundred
thousand
of
'em
.
Was
not
Paris
starv'd
by
30000
Men
,
tho'
at
the
same
time
it
was
defended
by
150000
Citizens
,
who
might
have
sally'd
out
when
they
pleas'd
?
What
then
wou'd
become
of
Venice
in
such
a
Case
,
where
the
besieg'd
must
be
coop'd
up
in
their
Houses
,
and
cou'd
never
make
a
Sally
to
disturb
or
annoy
their
Enemies
?
Perhaps
I
shall
be
laugh'd
at
for
maintaining
that
this
wonderful
Place
that
dispises
and
defies
the
most
potent
and
triumphant
Enemies
,
might
be
enter'd
and
set
on
Fire
by
a
sufficient
Number
of
Men
with
Torches
in
their
Hands
,
without
the
Trouble
or
Charge
of
Bombardment
.
But
I
wou'd
willingly
be
inform'd
what
cou'd
hinder
100000
Men
from
making
and
executing
such
an
Attempt
.
There
are
no
Walls
to
stop
or
retard
their
Progress
;
the
City
is
open
in
Fourscore
several
Places
,
all
the
Houses
that
surround
it
are
pierc'd
with
Doors
and
Shops
,
and
many
of
'em
are
built
of
Wood.
I
confess
such
an
Expedition
wou'd
require
a
vast
Number
of
Boats
;
but
when
I
speak
of
100000
Men
,
I
do
not
mean
that
they
shou'd
all
be
employ'd
in
the
Attempt
:
The
Fifth
part
of
'em
wou'd
serve
to
carry
on
the
Attack
;
and
the
Besiegers
might
find
a
sufficient
Number
of
Boats
in
the
adjacent
Harbours
,
without
giving
themselves
the
trouble
of
making
new
ones
.
My
Opinion
in
this
Case
is
so
singular
,
and
so
directly
opposite
to
the
Notions
that
are
entertain'd
by
the
generality
of
Mankind
,
that
you
will
doubtless
scruple
to
give
Credit
to
my
single
Testimony
,
especially
since
the
Arguments
I
bring
to
confirm
it
depend
on
certain
Circumstances
with
which
you
never
had
occasion
to
be
acquainted
.
And
you
will
be
apt
to
tell
me
,
that
the
Venetians
wou'd
certainly
have
taken
care
to
fortifie
their
Capital
City
,
if
its
Natural
Strength
were
not
incapable
of
any
Artificial
Improvements
.
In
answer
to
the
first
part
of
this
Difficulty
,
I
shall
only
repeat
what
I
have
already
told
you
,
that
't
was
never
my
Custom
to
make
my
Judgment
a
Slave
to
Authority
,
or
to
regulate
my
own
,
by
the
Opinions
of
others
.
I
'm
persuaded
that
a
blind
Submission
to
Vulgar
Notions
,
is
one
of
the
most
fertil
Sources
of
Error
,
and
that
there
is
nothing
so
variable
and
uncertain
,
as
the
Sentiments
of
Men
in
different
Places
and
Ages
.
I
confess
the
other
part
of
the
Objection
contains
a
greater
and
more
puzzling
Difficulty
.
But
tho'
the
Conduct
of
the
Venetian
Senate
in
this
Case
seems
at
first
View
to
depend
upon
some
secret
Reasons
of
State
,
the
Mystery
lies
not
so
deep
but
that
it
may
be
easily
unriddl'd
by
a
moderate
Degree
of
Application
.
You
know
that
the
Government
of
Venice
is
purely
Aristocratical
,
and
that
the
Revolutions
which
happen
in
such
Constitutions
,
are
usually
occasion'd
by
suffering
one
of
the
Members
of
the
Body
in
which
the
Government
is
lodg'd
,
to
over-top
the
rest
:
For
an
Ambitious
Person
may
be
easily
tempted
by
so
inviting
an
Opportunity
,
to
establish
the
Grandeur
of
his
Family
by
oppressing
his
Fellow-Citizens
,
and
to
erect
a
Monarchy
upon
the
Ruines
of
the
Republick
.
History
and
Experience
furnish
us
with
so
many
Instances
of
such
Revolutions
,
and
these
Examples
are
so
universally
known
,
that
't
wou'd
be
needless
either
to
cite
'em
,
or
to
alledge
any
other
Arguments
to
prove
so
well-attested
a
Truth
.
Now
the
Senate
of
Venice
,
whose
Maxims
are
,
without
Controversie
,
grounded
on
the
most
refin'd
Politicks
,
making
a
wise
use
of
the
Misfortunes
of
other
States
,
and
being
well
acquainted
with
the
weak
part
of
their
own
,
have
endeavour'd
to
prevent
the
Inconveniences
that
might
arise
from
that
necessary
Flaw
in
their
Constitution
,
by
the
most
prudent
Laws
and
Proviso's
that
ever
were
invented
;
and
their
Care
for
the
Preservation
of
the
State
has
been
attended
with
such
excellent
Success
,
that
the
Republic
continues
still
to
subsist
on
the
same
Foundations
on
which
't
was
first
establish'd
.
To
give
you
a
Specimen
of
the
admirable
Politicks
of
that
wise
Body
,
I
shall
briefly
take
notice
of
some
of
those
Laws
and
Customs
that
are
interwoven
with
the
Constitution
of
their
Government
.
The
Doge
is
entrusted
with
so
small
a
Share
in
the
Management
of
the
State
,
that
he
may
be
justly
call'd
a
meer
Shadow
of
Grandeur
.
There
are
Inquisitors
appointed
to
have
an
Eye
upon
his
Actions
,
who
may
call
him
to
an
Account
when
they
please
.
He
is
not
allow'd
the
Liberty
of
public
and
familiar
Conversation
,
nor
suffer'd
to
appear
in
the
City
but
on
certain
Days
of
Ceremony
.
The
Nobles
are
forbidden
to
entertain
any
correspondence
with
Foreign
Princes
,
or
their
Ministers
.
They
are
not
permitted
to
wear
Arms
,
to
use
any
Ornaments
of
Gold
or
Silver
,
to
keep
a
numerous
Train
of
Servants
,
or
to
affect
any
Marks
of
Grandeur
.
The
Custom
of
walking
in
the
Broglio
was
introduc'd
to
prevent
the
dangerous
Consequences
of
private
Cabals
.
The
Inquisitors
of
State
were
establish'd
for
the
Security
of
the
Government
;
and
't
is
the
same
Consideration
that
moves
'em
to
entertain
above
a
Thousand
Spies
.
And
to
conclude
,
that
illustrious
Body
in
which
the
Government
is
lodg'd
,
the
celebrated
Senate
of
Venice
,
which
knows
so
well
how
to
maintain
its
Honour
on
other
Occasions
,
keeps
neither
Guards
about
the
Place
of
its
meeting
,
nor
a
Garrison
in
the
Town
;
wisely
considering
,
that
if
ever
an
Insurrection
shou'd
happen
,
those
Mercenary
Soldiers
,
however
appointed
for
the
Defence
and
Preservation
of
the
State
,
wou'd
be
made
the
Instruments
of
its
Ruine
.
I
will
not
trouble
you
with
a
particular
Account
of
all
the
Laws
and
Regulations
that
were
instituted
for
the
same
end
,
and
are
still
observ'd
in
this
place
.
But
from
what
has
been
said
on
this
Subject
,
you
may
easily
perceive
that
those
prudent
Senatours
make
it
their
principal
Care
to
prevent
Intestine
Disorders
,
and
to
render
the
Nobles
incapable
of
invading
the
Public
Liberty
.
Now
if
the
Senate
shou'd
order
a
Citadel
or
Fort
to
be
built
at
Venice
,
they
might
with
Justice
be
accus'd
of
contriving
the
Instruments
of
their
own
Ruine
,
and
of
undermining
that
Noble
Fabric
,
which
they
have
taken
so
great
Care
to
secure
.
But
they
are
too
wise
to
be
guilty
of
so
fatal
a
Blunder
;
and
't
is
better
to
be
in
some
measure
expos'd
to
the
Insults
of
Foreign
Invaders
,
than
to
lie
at
the
Mercy
of
Domestic
Enemies
.
Besides
they
have
no
Reason
to
be
afraid
of
their
Neighbours
;
for
't
is
the
Interest
of
all
the
Princes
and
States
of
Italy
,
to
preserve
the
Republic
,
that
it
may
continue
to
be
the
Bulwark
of
Christendom
on
that
side
,
and
to
counter-balance
the
Power
of
the
House
of
Austria
.
And
as
for
the
Turks
,
they
are
at
too
great
a
Distance
to
undertake
an
Expedition
against
the
City
.
Thus
you
see
that
there
are
several
weighty
Considerations
that
deter
the
Senate
from
fortifying
their
Capital
City
:
and
there
are
no
less
pressing
Reasons
that
oblige
'em
to
encourage
the
Vulgar
Opinion
of
its
pretended
Impregnability
.
If
I
shou'd
send
you
a
particular
Description
of
this
City
,
I
cou'd
only
entertain
you
with
a
Repetition
of
what
you
have
read
perhaps
in
a
hundred
Authors
.
And
therefore
I
shall
content
my self
with
communicating
some
of
my
Remarks
to
you
,
in
a
loose
and
familiar
manner
.
Some
pretend
that
Venice
is
built
on
seventy
two
Islands
or
Lagunes
,
which
are
separated
by
such
narrow
Chanels
that
they
seem
to
form
one
little
Continent
:
and
there
are
others
who
reject
this
Opinion
.
I
will
not
undertake
to
decide
the
Controversie
,
but
only
tell
you
what
I
have
seen
,
and
leave
the
whole
Matter
to
your
Judgment
.
'T
is
certain
that
Venice
is
founded
on
a
Spot
of
Ground
that
rises
at
least
to
the
Surface
of
the
Water
;
for
the
Earth
appears
in
the
Streets
,
Keys
,
public
Places
,
and
Houses
.
'T
is
true
they
are
forc'd
to
make
use
of
Piles
,
because
the
Ground
is
not
firm
enough
to
support
the
Weight
of
a
large
Palace
without
sinking
:
but
that
ought
not
to
make
us
doubt
the
Truth
of
a
thing
that
is
confirm'd
by
the
Testimony
of
our
own
Eyes
;
for
the
same
way
of
Building
is
generally
us'd
in
all
Moorish
or
Fenny
Places
,
and
particularly
in
Holland
.
'T
is
no
less
certain
that
this
Spot
of
Ground
is
at
present
a
Mass
of
Islands
,
so
that
it
remains
only
to
consider
whether
the
Canals
that
separate
these
little
Islands
be
Natural
or
Artificial
.
This
Question
is
not
easily
to
be
determin'd
,
for
one
may
alledge
very
plausible
Arguments
either
for
the
Affirmative
or
Negative
part
.
'T
is
probable
the
Venetians
might
dig
these
Chanels
,
for
the
more
convenient
Carriage
of
Goods
,
which
by
this
means
are
brought
to
their
Doors
,
and
for
the
Embellishment
of
the
City
,
which
is
the
only
Town
in
the
World
that
can
boast
of
such
a
Situation
.
But
there
are
so
many
,
and
so
considerable
Reasons
,
which
favour
the
contrary
Opinion
,
that
I
'm
almost
entirely
convinc'd
of
the
Truth
of
it
.
In
the
first
place
,
'T
is
plain
that
the
Venetians
have
taken
all
possible
Care
to
husband
the
Ground
on
which
the
City
is
founded
.
The
Streets
are
so
narrow
,
that
in
most
of
'em
three
Men
cannot
walk
a-breast
,
and
in
some
,
one
Man
can
hardly
pass
by
another
.
And
the
Foundations
of
the
Houses
on
one
side
are
laid
in
the
Water
,
without
any
Key
or
Passage
betwixt
'em
and
the
Canals
.
We
cannot
then
suppose
,
with
the
least
Shadow
of
Probability
,
that
the
Prospect
of
any
Conveniency
cou'd
oblige
'em
to
waste
so
considerable
a
quantity
of
that
Ground
which
they
manage
so
thriftily
,
that
the
City
is
every-where
full
of
Boundaries
,
to
restrain
the
Proprietors
of
the
Houses
from
breaking
in
upon
the
Streets
.
And
besides
,
what
Reason
can
there
be
alledg'd
for
their
leaving
so
many
large
Spots
of
Ground
entire
;
for
tho'
you
are
inform'd
that
a
Man
may
go
in
a
Boat
to
any
House
in
the
City
,
you
must
not
take
these
Words
in
a
strict
and
literal
Sense
,
but
only
as
a
figurative
Expression
,
to
signifie
that
there
are
a
great
Number
of
such
Houses
in
Venice
.
I
can
assure
you
that
there
is
not
a
Canal
within
five
hundred
Paces
round
of
the
House
where
I
lodge
;
and
that
there
are
twenty
such
Places
in
the
City
.
I
shall
only
add
that
the
Canals
are
crooked
,
and
generally
unequal
both
in
Length
and
Breadth
;
which
,
in
my
Opinion
,
may
serve
to
convince
any
considering
Person
,
that
they
are
not
Artificial
.
All
the
Streets
in
the
City
,
without
Exception
,
are
narrow
and
crooked
;
but
to
make
amends
for
these
Disadvantages
,
they
are
so
clean
that
one
may
walk
a
Year
in
'em
without
meeting
with
any
Dirt
:
and
besides
they
are
pav'd
with
large
square
Stones
,
which
always
after
a
Shower
grow
as
white
as
Marble
.
In
several
parts
of
the
City
there
are
little
empty
places
call'd
Campi
or
Fields
;
which
were
probably
left
for
the
Conveniency
of
intrenching
,
if
an
Enemy
shou'd
enter
the
Town
;
for
they
are
not
at
all
Ornamental
.
The
only
considerable
Place
or
Field
in
Venice
,
is
that
of
S.
Mark
,
which
certainly
claims
all
our
Admiration
.
'T
is
two
hundred
and
fifty
Paces
long
,
and
eighty
broad
.
The
Church
of
S.
Mark
faces
one
of
the
Ends
of
it
,
and
that
of
S.
Geminian
the
other
.
'T
is
border'd
on
each
side
with
those
stately
Piles
of
Building
call'd
the
Old
and
New
Pro●●●aties
,
which
make
it
,
without
Controversie
,
the
most
Magnificent
Place
in
the
World
.
The
Front
of
each
Procuraty
is
supported
by
a
large
Portico
,
ten
Paces
broad
;
and
all
along
there
are
double
Piazza's
,
one
of
which
entering
into
the
Building
serves
for
Shops
,
which
are
lett
by
the
Signiory
to
those
who
sell
Perfumes
,
Limonade
,
and
Coffee
.
The
Procurators
of
S.
Mark
lodge
in
these
Palaces
,
which
for
that
Reason
are
call'd
the
Procuraties
:
but
when
any
Foreign
Prince
comes
to
take
a
View
of
'em
,
or
on
some
other
Occasions
of
Public
Rejoicing
,
the
Partitions
are
taken
down
,
so
that
one
may
walk
from
one
End
to
the
other
,
and
all
the
several
Apartments
are
united
into
one
spacious
House
.
That
on
the
Right-hand
,
as
you
go
to
S.
Mark
's
Church
,
is
call'd
the
New
,
and
that
on
the
Left
the
Old
Procuraty
.
The
first
has
two
principal
Fronts
,
one
of
which
looks
into
the
Place
of
S.
Mark
,
and
the
other
into
the
Broglio
,
over-against
the
Palace
of
St.
Mark
,
which
is
an
Ancient
and
Magnificent
Structure
,
where
all
the
Councils
meet
;
such
as
the
Grand
Council
,
the
Council
of
the
Finances
call'd
the
Ceca
,
the
Marine
Council
,
&c.
The
Ceca
is
a
distinct
Apartment
in
the
Palace
of
S.
Mark
;
and
tho'
't
is
built
after
the
same
Manner
,
and
with
the
same
Stones
,
the
large
Grates
and
double
Doors
of
Iron
,
with
which
't
is
inclos'd
,
make
it
resemble
a
Prison
rather
than
a
Palace
:
And
besides
the
Smoak
that
arises
from
the
Furnaces
has
so
penetrated
the
Stone-Walls
,
that
they
are
black
even
within
the
Chambers
.
Here
the
Money
is
coin'd
,
and
the
Public
Treasure
kept
in
great
Iron
Chests
,
secur'd
with
three
Locks
,
the
Keys
of
which
are
committed
to
the
Custody
of
three
Procurators
,
who
,
under
Pain
of
Death
,
dare
not
make
the
least
Attempt
to
open
'em
till
they
are
all
met
together
.
The
Council
sits
twice
a
Week
,
which
are
the
only
Days
for
all
sorts
of
Payments
.
The
little
Arsenal
of
the
Nobles
,
whose
Arms
are
always
kept
ready
charg'd
,
is
in
the
same
Palace
of
S.
Mark
;
and
the
Doge's
Apartment
is
in
the
Right-Wing
,
from
whence
there
is
a
Passage
to
the
Church
,
whither
he
goes
sometimes
incognito
to
hear
Mass
;
but
usually
he
performs
his
Devotions
at
a
private
Chapel
in
his
own
Apartment
.
S.
Mark
's
Church
is
a
large
Structure
,
square
on
the
Out-side
,
cover'd
with
four
Leaden
Domes
,
of
which
the
largest
is
in
the
Middle
,
without
any
Spires
or
Steeples
.
The
Top
is
surrounded
with
Stone
Balisters
for
the
Conveniency
of
walking
.
You
enter
the
Church
thro'
a
Portico
compos'd
of
five
Arches
,
the
highest
of
which
is
in
the
Middle
.
There
you
may
take
a
View
of
those
Large
and
Stately
Gates
of
Brass
,
which
the
Venetians
brought
from
Santa
Sophia
at
Constantinople
,
when
they
robb'd
that
City
of
so
many
valuable
Curiosities
to
enrich
their
own
.
Among
the
rest
,
I
cannot
forbear
taking
Notice
of
the
four
Brazen
Horses
that
are
plac'd
upon
the
same
Portico
.
'T
is
Pity
they
are
not
more
carefully
preserv'd
;
for
they
are
so
finely
shap'd
,
that
Nature
her self
cou'd
not
mend
those
Artificial
Animals
.
'T
is
true
,
they
have
endeavour'd
to
piece
'em
,
but
all
their
Care
and
Skill
will
never
be
able
to
restore
'em
to
their
primitive
Beauty
.
The
Figure
of
the
Church
within
resembles
a
Cross
,
the
Quire
representing
the
upper
part
.
'T
is
vaulted
throughout
,
and
enrich'd
with
very
fine
Mosaic-Work
,
like
that
of
Santa
Sophia
,
but
not
near
so
lasting
:
for
it
decays
so
fast
,
that
they
are
forc'd
to
keep
some
Workmen
on
purpose
to
repair
it
;
whereas
the
other
remains
entire
notwithstanding
its
great
Antiquity
.
And
besides
there
is
another
Difference
betwixt
the
Mosaic-Work
at
Venice
,
and
that
at
Santa
Sophia
;
for
the
latter
is
smooth
and
plain
,
whereas
the
former
is
full
of
Figures
.
These
are
the
only
Pieces
of
this
Nature
I
have
had
occasion
to
see
in
my
Travels
,
except
one
at
Scio.
The
Floor
of
the
Church
is
adorn'd
with
another
sort
of
Mosaic
no
less
precious
than
the
former
,
consisting
of
several
small
Pieces
of
Porphyrie
,
Jasper
,
and
Serpentine
or
speckl'd
Marble
,
not
unlike
to
the
Tables
and
Cabinets
of
Ebony
,
that
are
inlaid
with
Shells
and
Naker
.
The
Arms
of
all
the
Doges
that
have
hitherto
govern'd
the
Republic
are
plac'd
round
the
Walls
.
They
are
generally
magnificent
,
and
even
some
of
'em
are
of
Silver
curiously
wrought
.
The
only
Fault
I
can
find
in
this
Church
is
its
Obscurity
,
which
hides
the
greatest
part
of
its
Beauties
:
For
in
all
other
respects
't
is
enrich'd
with
the
finest
Ornaments
,
such
as
Altars
,
Pictures
,
and
Vessels
of
Gold
and
Silver
.
'T
wou'd
be
needless
to
present
you
with
a
Catalogue
of
the
rare
Curiosities
that
are
to
be
seen
either
in
the
Church
or
Treasury
,
since
you
will
find
'em
all
particularly
describ'd
in
a
Treatise
written
by
Monsieur
de
S.
Didier
.
'T
is
Pity
the
Venetians
shou'd
have
lost
the
Body
of
their
good
Patron
,
S.
Mark
,
and
that
their
Loss
shou'd
be
attended
with
this
mortifying
Circumstance
,
that
they
know
neither
the
Time
nor
Occasion
of
it
.
'T
is
true
the
common
People
believe
that
he
retir'd
into
a
Pillar
,
which
they
shew'd
me
,
and
that
he
thrust
his
Hand
out
of
that
Column
when
he
gave
the
Ring
to
the
Doge
;
but
most
of
'em
scruple
not
to
confess
that
they
know
not
where
he
is
,
nor
whither
he
went
.
They
made
me
also
take
Notice
of
a
Stone
,
which
they
pretend
is
the
same
that
yielded
Water
to
the
Israelites
,
when
they
were
tormented
with
Thirst
in
the
Wilderness
.
If
this
be
true
,
we
must
allow
that
Rock
a
Power
to
multiply
its
Kind
;
for
't
is
still
to
be
seen
in
the
Desarts
of
Arabia
,
between
Sues
and
Tor
,
as
I
have
heard
several
credible
Persons
affirm
,
as
well
Christians
,
as
Turks
and
Moors
,
who
assure
me
that
it
stands
by
it self
in
the
midst
of
a
Sandy
Desart
;
and
that
one
may
both
easily
perceive
the
Holes
that
gave
a
Passage
to
the
Water
,
and
discern
the
very
Track
or
Print
that
was
made
by
the
Stream
.
The
next
place
in
Venice
that
claims
a
particular
Observation
,
is
the
Arsenal
,
which
is
certainly
the
best
furnish'd
Magazine
in
the
World
.
For
tho'
it
contains
no
less
than
two
Miles
in
Compass
,
't
is
fill'd
and
even
crowded
with
Cannons
,
Bombs
,
Granadoes
,
Muskets
,
Sabres
,
Gun-powder
,
Ropes
,
Sails
,
Anchors
,
&c.
To
give
you
an
Estimate
of
the
prodigious
Quantity
of
Ammunition
that
is
hoarded
up
in
this
Place
,
't
will
be
sufficient
to
tell
you
,
that
in
case
of
Necessity
,
't
is
sufficient
to
arm
and
equip
fifteen
Galleys
,
four
Galeasses
,
as
many
Ships
,
and
a
hundred
thousand
Men.
The
Arsenal
is
govern'd
by
three
Nobles
,
and
under
them
by
the
Pilot
of
the
Republic
,
whom
they
call
the
Admiral
,
who
is
entrusted
with
the
Care
and
Inspection
both
of
the
Stores
,
and
of
two
or
three
hundred
Men
,
that
are
constantly
kept
at
Work
.
He
never
goes
to
Sea
but
once
a
Year
,
to
steer
the
Bucentaur
on
Ascension-Day
,
when
the
Duke
accompany'd
by
all
the
Nobles
,
performs
the
Ceremony
of
Wedding
the
Sea
.
They
set
so
high
a
Value
upon
this
Vessel
,
that
the
Pilot
is
oblig'd
under
Pain
of
Death
to
bring
it
back
in
Safety
;
which
makes
him
so
cautious
in
observing
the
Weather
,
that
when
he
perceives
any
Clouds
,
or
the
least
Appearance
of
a
Wind
on
the
Day
appointed
for
the
Solemnity
,
he
procures
it
to
be
delay'd
till
the
next
Sunday
.
'T
is
the
Opinion
of
one
,
That
Venice
contains
Four
hundred
Palaces
,
fit
to
receive
and
entertain
a
King
.
This
is
certainly
a
very
bold
Assertion
;
and
yet
I
dare
not
positively
contradict
it
:
for
the
Palaces
are
so
Numerous
and
Magnificent
,
that
I
may
venture
,
without
a
Hyperbole
,
to
affirm
that
they
are
sufficient
to
adorn
Ten
Cities
.
On
the
great
Canal
alone
there
are
at
least
Two
hundred
,
which
seem
to
out-rival
one
another
,
whether
you
consider
the
Boldness
of
the
Design
,
or
the
Fineness
of
the
Structure
;
and
confound
the
amaz'd
Spectatour
with
so
vast
a
Medley
of
different
Beauties
,
that
he
knows
not
which
to
prefer
,
or
where
to
point
at
the
Principal
Object
of
his
Admiration
.
If
your
Curiosity
shou'd
lead
you
out
of
the
City
,
to
take
a
View
of
the
neighbouring
Continent
,
especially
towards
Padua
,
you
wou'd
be
tempted
to
fansie
your self
among
the
Habitations
of
the
Gods
;
for
every
Palace
resembles
a
Magnificent
Temple
,
adorn'd
with
all
the
most
exquisite
Beauties
of
Architecture
.
It
must
be
acknowledg'd
that
the
Italians
,
and
particularly
the
Venetians
,
are
the
best
Architects
in
the
World
;
and
that
the
finest
Houses
in
France
are
not
comparable
to
these
Palaces
on
the
Outside
.
I
shall
take
this
Occasion
to
give
you
a
general
Idea
of
their
Manner
of
Building
.
The
Height
of
the
Edifice
is
exactly
proportion'd
to
its
Bigness
,
according
to
the
nicest
Rules
of
Architecture
.
The
Houses
are
cover'd
with
fine
Platforms
,
where
a
Man
may
enjoy
the
Pleasure
of
walking
without
going
out
of
his
own
House
;
and
when
he
grows
weary
may
either
sit
down
on
the
Benches
,
or
rest
on
the
Balisters
that
surround
the
Platform
.
The
Fronts
of
the
Houses
are
adorn'd
with
Portico's
,
Columns
,
Balconies
at
the
Windows
,
Frizes
,
Festoons
,
Niches
,
and
Statues
.
These
Ornaments
are
accompany'd
with
Courts
,
Anti-Courts
,
delicious
Gardens
,
Fountains
,
Grotto's
,
and
all
the
other
Embellishments
that
a
luxurious
Fancy
can
contrive
.
I
can
assure
you
that
this
is
a
true
and
faithful
Representation
of
these
glorious
Edifices
;
and
I
leave
you
to
judge
whether
they
may
not
justly
be
call'd
Palaces
,
and
whether
any
thing
cou'd
give
a
higher
Idea
of
the
Grandeur
of
the
Venetian
Nobles
.
The
main
Reason
,
in
my
Opinion
,
that
makes
'em
employ
so
great
a
part
of
their
Treasure
in
Building
,
is
because
they
are
not
permitted
to
display
their
Magnificence
any
other
way
.
For
since
they
are
not
suffer'd
to
consume
their
Money
in
splendid
Equipages
,
and
rich
Habits
,
't
is
plain
they
must
either
build
,
or
find
some
other
way
to
bestow
their
superfluous
Cash
.
And
,
't
is
probably
the
same
Restraint
that
tempts
'em
to
throw
away
such
vast
quantities
of
Money
on
Courtezans
and
at
Play
.
You
wou'd
hardly
believe
me
,
if
I
shou'd
tell
you
what
prodigious
Summs
are
consum'd
every
Year
at
Bassette
,
especially
during
the
Carnaval
;
when
the
Ridotti
or
Gaming-Houses
are
open
.
None
are
admitted
into
these
Houses
without
Masks
;
that
all
sorts
of
People
may
enjoy
an
equal
Liberty
,
and
that
there
may
be
no
Occasion
for
Disputes
,
nor
any
Marks
of
Distinction
in
a
place
where
every
one
is
welcome
for
his
Money
,
and
where
there
is
always
a
confus'd
Medley
of
Noblemen
,
Citizens
,
Ladies
,
and
Courtezans
:
Yet
this
Order
is
not
observ'd
with
the
utmost
Rigour
;
for
one
that
has
a
false
Nose
,
or
counterfeit
Whiskers
is
held
to
be
sufficiently
Mask'd
.
The
Nobles
keep
the
Bank
,
and
relieve
one
another
by
turns
from
Morning
till
Night
.
They
bear
good
or
bad
Fortune
without
discovering
the
least
Alteration
either
in
their
Countenance
or
Humour
:
and
seem
as
little
concern'd
when
they
lose
a
Thousand
Sequins
by
one
Card
,
as
when
they
gain
One
by
another
.
I
have
had
Occasion
two
or
three
times
to
see
the
Bank
broke
,
but
cou'd
never
perceive
the
least
Sign
of
Disturbance
in
the
unfortunate
Gamester
.
And
which
is
no
less
surprizing
,
I
have
seen
other
Noblemen
continue
to
play
with
the
Loser
,
upon
his
bare
Word
,
to
the
Value
of
Ten
thousand
Ducats
,
which
were
always
punctually
paid
next
Morning
.
'T
is
true
,
the
Loss
does
not
fall
wholly
upon
one
Person
,
for
there
are
sometimes
a
Hundred
of
'em
join'd
together
;
and
this
is
perhaps
the
main
Reason
that
makes
'em
bear
their
Misfortunes
so
patiently
.
Besides
the
Bank
is
seldom
a
Loser
at
the
last
;
and
the
Ridotti
are
sometimes
so
full
of
Money
,
that
they
know
not
where
to
keep
it
.
All
the
Cash
is
entrusted
to
the
Care
of
some
Nobleman
,
who
is
usually
one
of
the
poorer
Sort
;
and
yet
't
is
never
observ'd
that
he
retains
so
much
as
one
Peny
.
You
may
expect
,
in
my
next
,
an
Answer
to
your
Questions
concerning
the
Nobility
.
I
am
,
SIR
,
Your
&c
Venice
,
Jan.
1692.
LETTER
XXVIII
.
SIR
,
I
Remember
I
told
you
,
that
the
Order
of
Malta
might
be
divided
into
four
Classes
;
and
I
shall
begin
this
Letter
with
applying
the
same
Observation
to
the
Noblemen
of
Venice
:
for
tho'
all
who
bear
that
Name
are
united
into
one
Body
,
their
Families
are
not
equally
Illustrious
.
The
first
Classis
or
Rank
,
consists
of
those
Families
who
founded
the
Republic
,
and
were
Noble
before
that
time
.
The
second
comprehends
those
who
were
elected
before
the
Shutting
up
of
the
Council
,
which
was
call'd
,
Il
Serrar
del
Consiglio
.
The
third
contains
those
who
obtain'd
that
Honour
as
a
Recompence
for
some
eminent
Services
done
to
the
State
;
and
are
therefore
call'd
Gentlemen
by
Merit
.
And
the
fourth
is
made
up
of
Nobili
per
Soldi
,
or
Gentlemen
by
Purchase
,
who
bought
the
Title
.
But
notwithstanding
so
considerable
a
Difference
in
their
Pedigrees
,
they
have
all
an
equal
Right
to
give
their
Voices
,
and
enjoy
the
same
Privileges
:
All
,
from
the
Highest
to
the
Lowest
,
go
to
the
Great
Council
,
and
are
honour'd
with
the
Title
of
Excellency
.
And
even
it
happens
not
unfrequently
that
the
most
Illustrious
Members
of
that
Body
are
not
most
respected
:
for
oftentimes
a
Gentleman
of
three
Days
standing
is
advanc'd
to
the
Dignity
of
a
Procurator
,
while
the
Ancient
Families
,
and
those
that
gave
a
Being
to
the
Republic
,
are
in
a
miserable
Condition
.
Here
,
as
well
as
every
where
else
,
't
is
the
Custom
to
worship
the
Rising
Sun
,
and
to
court
those
who
seem
to
be
the
Darlings
of
Fortune
:
The
Richest
are
always
esteem'd
the
Greatest
Lords
,
and
stand
fairest
for
Preferment
.
However
since
all
Elections
are
decided
by
Plurality
of
Voices
in
the
Grand
Council
,
the
poorer
Sort
of
Gentlemen
are
treated
with
more
Complaisance
than
they
cou'd
expect
,
if
they
had
not
a
Right
to
Vote
on
such
Occasions
;
since
it
may
sometimes
be
in
their
Power
to
dispose
of
the
Procuratorship
,
and
even
of
the
Ducal
Coronet
.
This
puts
me
in
mind
of
a
Story
,
which
perhaps
will
divert
you
;
you
must
take
it
on
the
Credit
of
its
Authors
.
There
was
,
say
the
Venetians
,
a
certain
poor
Gentleman
,
who
had
Occasion
to
take
a
Journey
into
the
Country
:
Before
his
Departure
he
went
to
a
Great
Lord
,
who
was
his
Neighbour
,
and
intreated
him
to
lend
him
a
Cloak
;
but
had
the
Mortification
to
receive
a
flat
Denyal
,
and
was
forc'd
to
have
Recourse
to
another
.
Not
long
after
the
Doge
di'd
,
and
the
rich
Nobleman
had
so
great
an
Interest
in
the
Council
,
that
when
they
proceeded
to
Balloting
,
he
wanted
but
one
Voice
to
be
chosen
.
In
the
mean
time
the
poor
Gentleman
happen'd
to
come
in
,
and
was
immediately
accosted
by
his
wealthy
Neighbour
,
who
,
with
all
imaginable
Submission
and
Respect
,
begg'd
his
Voice
;
and
assur'd
him
,
that
he
wou'd
always
look
upon
him
as
the
Author
of
his
Fortune
.
But
the
Gentleman
remembring
his
late
Incivility
,
reply'd
in
an
angry
and
disdainful
manner
,
No
,
my
Lord
,
you
must
e'en
resolve
to
go
without
a
Coronet
,
as
you
made
me
go
without
a
Cloak
.
The
Consideration
of
the
frequent
Occasions
they
have
to
make
use
of
the
Assistance
of
the
rest
of
their
Body
,
makes
'em
treat
one
another
with
a
great
deal
of
Civility
,
if
I
may
be
allow'd
to
use
so
weak
an
Expression
to
signifie
the
Compliments
and
Ceremonious
Niceties
of
their
Salutations
,
which
are
so
extravagant
,
that
in
any
other
Country
they
wou'd
be
esteem'd
Ridiculous
.
'T
is
pleasant
to
observe
how
they
court
one
another
when
they
meet
on
the
Broglio
:
I
have
often
seen
Noblemen
who
stood
Candidates
for
the
highest
Preferments
,
prostrate
themselves
before
a
poor
Gentleman
whose
Vest
was
not
worth
a
Groat
,
as
if
he
had
been
a
King
,
or
somewhat
more
than
Humane
.
The
Venetian
Salutations
are
quite
different
from
Ours
;
they
perform
'em
slowly
,
to
express
the
Modesty
and
Humility
of
their
Respect
,
and
bowing
their
Heads
to
their
very
Knees
,
continue
sometimes
for
the
Space
of
a
Minute
in
that
Posture
,
offering
their
Service
in
the
most
submissive
Expressions
;
after
which
they
raise
their
Bodies
,
and
immediately
begin
again
,
repeating
the
same
Ceremony
two
or
three
times
.
And
they
are
so
nicely
scrupulous
in
such
Cases
,
that
if
any
Nobleman
shou'd
venture
to
shorten
his
Reverences
,
or
to
imitate
the
French
Air
in
the
least
,
he
wou'd
be
reckon'd
a
base
Man
,
who
had
lost
all
Sense
of
Honour
.
When
a
Stranger
comes
to
serve
in
the
Venetian
Army
,
he
must
immediately
learn
their
Fashions
,
as
the
only
way
to
avoid
their
Hatred
,
and
to
raise
his
own
Fortune
;
tho'
it
must
be
acknowledg'd
these
fawning
Ceremonies
are
extremely
troublesome
and
uneasie
.
I
had
occasion
t'other
Day
to
see
the
Entry
of
a
Procurator
,
and
took
notice
of
some
Colonels
and
other
Officers
who
march'd
before
the
Senate
to
the
Church
,
where
they
stopt
within
the
Door
,
and
saluted
every
Nobleman
as
he
pass'd
by
,
with
a
Reverence
,
such
as
I
describ'd
before
;
so
that
for
a
large
Quarter
of
an
Hour
they
were
perpetually
employ'd
in
that
troublesome
Task
.
But
besides
those
profound
Reverences
,
there
are
a
Thousand
other
Niceties
,
and
nauseous
Flatteries
,
which
are
the
necessary
Consequences
of
their
Excessive
Civility
.
You
must
weigh
every
Expression
you
use
either
in
Letters
or
Discourse
;
for
't
is
not
enough
to
avoid
the
Word
Voi
or
You
,
which
wou'd
be
reckon'd
a
Downright
Affront
,
and
to
use
always
the
Third
Person
Lei
,
or
Ella
,
but
you
must
take
care
to
repeat
the
most
submissive
Phrases
,
such
as
If
it
please
my
Patron
,
If
my
Patron
vouchsafe
to
command
me
,
&c.
You
must
still
say
,
My
Patron
said
or
did
such
a
thing
;
and
whatever
Epithet
you
bestow
upon
him
,
you
must
never
forget
to
add
issimo
to
the
End
of
it
;
for
't
wou'd
be
reckon'd
a
poor
Compliment
to
call
a
Man
Nobile
,
Docto
,
or
Galanto
,
instead
of
which
you
must
say
he
is
Nobilissimo
,
Doctissimo
,
and
Galantissimo
.
The
same
,
or
rather
greater
Ceremonies
,
are
observ'd
in
Writing
;
I
remember
I
have
seen
some
Letters
from
the
Captain
Generals
Cornaro
and
Mocenigo
to
a
Greek
Merchant
,
in
which
they
gave
him
the
Title
of
Molto
Illustre
Signor
.
Four
Fingers
breadth
lower
the
Letter
began
thus
,
Ho
ricevuto
de
vostra
Signoria
molto
Illustre
,
&c.
and
the
rest
was
all
of
a
Piece
:
At
the
End
of
the
Letter
were
these
Words
,
de
vostra
Signoria
molto
illustre
,
devotissimo
Servitore
;
then
a
Space
of
Six
Fingers
breadth
,
and
the
Subscription
at
the
Bottom
.
I
was
extremely
surpriz'd
at
the
Extravagancy
of
these
Compliments
,
when
I
consider'd
the
Quality
of
the
Writers
,
and
of
him
to
whom
the
Letters
were
directed
;
and
I
leave
you
to
judge
what
Ceremonies
must
be
observ'd
between
Equals
.
A
Letter
to
a
Nobleman
must
be
directed
thus
,
Al'
Illustrissimo
&
Excellentissimo
Signor
,
&
mio
Padrone
Colendissimo
,
il
Signor
,
&c.
and
the
Body
of
the
Letter
must
be
sutable
to
the
flattering
Superscription
.
You
must
take
care
to
give
every
Man
the
Titles
that
are
appropriated
to
Persons
of
his
Rank
and
Quality
:
Thus
when
you
speak
to
a
Tradesman
,
you
must
call
him
Signor
Pietro
,
or
Signor
Paolo
;
to
a
Citizen
or
Merchant
you
must
say
Vostra
Signoria
,
and
,
in
Letters
,
Vostra
Signoria
molto
Illustre
.
A
Counsellor
,
Physician
,
Notary
,
or
a
Gentleman
who
is
a
Subject
is
styl'd
la
Signoria
Illustrissima
;
The
proper
Title
of
the
Nobles
is
l'
Excellenza
;
and
the
Doge
is
usually
call'd
la
Serenita
,
or
il
Serenissimo
;
for
they
rarely
say
il
Dogio
.
But
when
they
say
il
Principe
,
they
always
mean
the
Republic
.
Thus
all
Orders
and
Proclamations
begin
thus
,
Il
Serenissimo
Principe
fa
sapere
;
The
most
Serene
Prince
declares
,
or
gives
Notice
:
And
t
is
usually
said
in
familiar
Discourse
,
Il
Principe
ha
prohibito
le
Pompe
;
The
Prince
has
prohibited
the
wearing
of
Costly
Apparel
,
&c.
Thus
they
speak
when
they
do
not
so
much
as
think
of
the
Doge
,
who
has
no
more
Power
to
make
such
Regulations
,
than
the
meanest
Officer
that
belongs
to
the
Republic
;
and
far
from
being
a
Soveraign
,
he
is
so
much
a
Subject
,
that
he
dares
hardly
move
one
Inch
without
Orders
.
Francis
Morosini
,
the
present
Doge
,
was
elected
to
that
Dignity
in
April
1688
,
while
he
was
obtaining
Victories
for
the
Republick
abroad
.
And
yet
as
told
and
infirmas
he
is
,
he
was
forc'd
to
continue
in
that
fatiguing
Employment
,
and
at
last
,
with
much
ado
,
and
after
a
whole
Year
spent
in
humble
and
earnest
Solicitations
,
he
obtain'd
leave
to
quit
the
Service
,
and
return'd
to
Venice
last
Year
.
He
is
the
first
Doge
that
ever
enter'd
the
City
with
the
Ducal
Coronet
on
his
Head
:
Nor
cou'd
the
Senate
refuse
to
grant
some
unusual
Mark
of
Honour
to
the
Conqueror
of
all
Morea
.
However
,
I
'm
strongly
inclin'd
to
suspect
that
the
main
Consideration
which
made
him
so
uneasie
till
he
had
obtain'd
a
Permission
to
leave
the
Army
,
was
his
Fear
of
losing
the
Glory
he
had
acquir'd
.
And
you
will
be
of
the
same
Opinion
if
you
consider
the
ill
Success
of
his
Attempt
upon
Negropont
;
and
the
slow
Progress
he
made
in
the
Siege
of
Napoli
di
Malvasia
,
which
held
out
two
Years
against
him
,
and
was
still
in
so
good
a
Condition
at
his
Departure
,
that
there
was
little
or
no
hope
of
reducing
it
;
tho'
for
want
of
Provisions
the
Garrison
was
oblig'd
to
surrender
the
Place
to
the
General
during
the
last
Campaign
.
The
length
of
this
Siege
puts
me
in
mind
of
Candy
,
which
for
so
long
a
time
was
attack'd
and
defended
with
equal
Obstinacy
and
Vigour
.
'T
was
the
same
Morosini
who
commanded
in
the
Place
,
and
the
Senate
being
unwilling
to
waste
so
much
Blood
and
Treasure
in
the
Defence
of
a
Place
which
,
after
all
,
they
cou'd
not
hope
to
preserve
,
sent
him
positive
Orders
to
Capitulate
.
But
he
was
so
desirous
of
Glory
,
and
had
so
mean
an
Opinion
of
the
Turkish
Valour
,
that
he
assur'd
the
Senate
,
if
they
wou'd
continue
to
supply
him
with
necessary
Provisions
,
he
wou'd
either
save
the
Place
,
or
bury
himself
under
its
Ruines
.
Yet
,
for
all
his
bravery
,
he
was
forc'd
to
submit
to
the
Chance
of
War
,
without
performing
either
part
of
his
Promise
:
And
at
his
return
to
Venice
he
had
the
mortification
to
meet
with
a
very
bad
Reception
on
the
Broglio
.
Some
of
the
Nobles
were
so
incens'd
against
him
,
that
they
discover'd
their
Spite
by
abusing
him
to
his
Face
,
asking
by
way
of
Derision
,
Ha!
is
not
this
Morosini
;
while
others
reply'd
with
equal
Bitterness
and
Contempt
,
No
,
no
,
that
can't
be
the
Man
who
promis'd
to
bury
himself
under
the
Ruines
of
Candy
,
if
he
shou'd
find
himself
unable
to
preserve
it
.
But
the
Malice
of
his
Enemies
did
not
evaporate
in
Jests
,
they
were
not
satisfy'd
with
so
poor
a
Revenge
,
but
prosecuted
him
so
warmly
,
that
his
Head
was
in
a
tottering
Condition
.
One
of
'em
represented
his
Crime
to
the
Council
,
and
in
a
vehement
and
pathetic
Discourse
,
accus'd
him
of
abusing
the
Senate
,
by
promising
such
things
as
he
cou'd
not
perform
,
and
of
engaging
the
Republick
in
a
prodigious
Charge
,
which
might
have
been
better
employ'd
another
way
.
Nor
was
this
the
single
Opinion
of
one
Person
,
for
several
others
voted
him
guilty
:
Yet
his
good
Fortune
deliver'd
him
from
so
great
a
Danger
,
and
has
now
set
the
Coronet
on
his
Head
;
he
is
somewhat
lean
,
and
of
a
middle
Stature
;
his
Hair
and
Beard
are
white
;
he
wears
Whiskers
,
and
a
little
Tuft
of
Hair
upon
his
Chin.
I
saw
him
at
the
Entry
of
his
Kinsman
the
Procurator
Morosini
;
and
since
I
have
occasion
again
to
speak
of
that
Solemnity
,
which
I
only
mention'd
before
,
I
shall
now
give
you
a
particular
Account
of
it
:
But
before
I
describe
the
Order
of
the
Cavalcade
,
it
will
not
be
improper
to
acquaint
you
with
the
Preparations
that
were
made
in
the
Church
of
S.
Mark
.
From
the
Door
of
the
Nave
or
Body
of
the
Church
to
that
of
the
Quire
,
there
was
a
Lane
border'd
with
Rows
of
Benches
,
thro'
which
the
Doge
and
Procurators
were
to
pass
;
and
both
the
Floor
and
Benches
were
cover'd
with
Turkish
Tapestry
.
The
Quire
was
also
full
of
Benches
,
without
any
Difference
or
Mark
of
Distinction
;
only
the
Doge's
Place
was
cover'd
with
red
Velvet
;
and
besides
,
there
was
a
Cushion
of
the
same
Velvet
at
his
Feet
,
and
another
on
the
Place
where
he
lean'd
at
Prayer
.
The
Altar
was
embellish'd
with
the
richest
Jewels
,
Relicks
,
Candlesticks
,
and
other
Ornaments
;
and
the
Patiarch's
great
Vicar
waited
in
his
Seat
for
the
Doge's
coming
.
He
wore
a
Chasuble
embroider'd
with
Pearls
,
worth
above
6000
Ducats
;
and
the
Hangings
of
the
Altar
were
no
less
rich
.
The
Church
being
thus
prepar'd
,
the
Signiory
or
Noblemen
began
their
Cavalcade
from
the
Hall
of
the
Great
Council
in
S.
Mark
's
Palace
,
where
they
were
assembl'd
to
assist
at
the
Solemnity
.
In
the
first
place
march'd
the
Doge's
Servants
,
to
the
Number
of
Forty
,
in
long
Livery
Cloaks
.
Then
came
the
Societies
of
Tradesmen
,
or
rather
a
confus'd
Company
of
private
Persons
who
came
of
their
own
accord
to
honour
the
new
Procurator
;
for
their
Presence
was
not
requir'd
by
any
positive
Order
.
These
were
follow'd
by
a
Hundred
Sclavonian
Soldiers
,
arm'd
only
with
Sabres
,
who
had
obtain'd
leave
to
come
from
the
Army
,
and
appear'd
on
this
Occasion
at
the
desire
of
their
Commanders
.
Twelve
or
Fifteen
Officers
march'd
before
'em
,
among
whom
was
a
Sergeant
Major
;
and
there
were
some
also
in
the
Rear
.
These
Officers
were
not
arm'd
,
because
they
came
voluntarily
,
not
by
command
;
for
at
Venice
every
Man
is
welcome
on
such
Occasions
,
tho'
he
be
not
invited
.
Then
came
the
Eight
Standards
of
the
Republick
,
Two
Red
,
Two
White
,
Two
Blue
,
and
Two
of
a
Violet-colour
;
the
Red
being
carry'd
first
,
to
signifie
the
present
War
.
These
were
immediately
follow'd
by
the
Signiory
,
who
march'd
Two
and
Two
,
in
open-sleev'd
Gowns
,
or
Robes
of
Red
Cloth
furr'd
with
Ermines
.
There
were
at
least
Three
hundred
Nobles
,
comprehending
the
Senators
and
the
Procurators
,
who
form'd
the
last
Ranks
,
and
consequently
were
next
the
Doge
.
He
that
made
his
Entry
walk'd
among
the
rest
,
without
any
Mark
of
Distinction
either
in
his
Habit
,
or
any
other
Respect
;
so
that
if
some
Persons
had
not
shew'd
him
to
to
me
,
I
cou'd
not
have
distinguish'd
him
from
the
rest
of
the
Procurators
.
The
Robes
or
Gowns
of
all
the
Procurators
are
exactly
alike
;
nor
is
there
any
difference
among
the
Nobles
in
respect
of
their
Habits
;
that
so
none
may
pretend
to
Superiority
over
another
.
After
them
came
the
Doge
,
who
represents
the
Soveraign
:
He
had
a
Vest
of
Red
Brocado
,
with
Gold
Flowers
,
and
over
that
a
Duc●●
Mantle
,
of
a
very
rich
Stuff
of
Gold
.
His
Coronet
is
a
Cap
of
Pastboard
neatly
cover'd
with
the
same
rich
Stuff
,
and
adorn'd
with
some
Galoons
,
without
either
Pearls
or
Precious
Stones
.
There
is
a
sort
of
Point
on
the
hinder
part
of
the
Cap
,
that
bends
a
little
forwards
.
The
magnificent
Coronet
that
is
kept
in
the
Treasury
,
is
only
us'd
on
the
Day
of
the
Doge's
Coronation
.
He
was
accompany'd
on
the
Right-hand
by
the
Pope's
Nuncio
,
and
on
the
Left
by
the
French
Ambassador
,
Monsieur
de
la
Haye
.
The
first
was
in
a
Camail
and
Rochet
,
and
the
other
in
a
black
Cloak
.
Two
Citizens
bore
the
Doge's
Train
,
which
otherwise
wou'd
have
trail'd
above
four
Feet
on
the
Ground
.
Last
of
all
march'd
Fifty
or
Sixty
Nobles
,
in
the
same
Order
as
before
.
As
the
Noblemen
pass'd
by
,
there
were
certain
old
and
young
Women
that
strew'd
the
Way
with
Flowers
and
Green
Leaves
,
especially
before
the
Doge
:
In
the
mean
time
the
Guns
at
the
Arsenal
were
fir'd
,
and
the
Company
was
entertain'd
with
the
Noise
of
the
Prince's
Trumpets
and
Kettle-Drums
,
which
were
plac'd
on
the
Top
of
the
Portico
of
the
Church
,
between
the
two
Brazen
Horses
,
from
whence
they
might
be
easily
heard
,
because
't
is
not
Three
hundred
Paces
from
thence
to
the
Hall
of
the
Great
Council
.
As
soon
as
the
Doge
enter'd
,
he
went
immediately
to
perform
his
Devotions
upon
the
Steps
of
the
Altar
,
where
he
kneel'd
without
a
Cushion
.
As
he
return'd
to
his
Place
,
the
Nuncio
happen'd
to
be
on
his
Left-hand
,
and
the
Ambassador
on
his
Right
,
but
they
instantly
chang'd
Places
,
and
proceeded
as
before
to
the
Place
where
the
Doge
was
to
sit
.
After
the
Doge
had
seated
himself
,
the
Nuncio
sate
down
on
his
Right-hand
,
and
Monsieur
de
la
Haye
took
his
Place
on
the
Right-hand
of
the
Nuncio
;
so
that
the
Nuncio
sate
between
the
Doge
and
the
Ambassador
.
This
preposterous
Order
will
perhaps
surprize
you
;
for
according
to
the
Ceremonies
that
are
observ'd
on
such
Occasions
,
the
Doge
ought
to
have
sate
in
the
Middle
:
But
I
had
forgot
to
tell
you
,
that
there
was
no
particular
Place
appointed
for
the
Doge
,
neither
a
Tribune
,
Pew
,
nor
so
much
as
an
arm'd
Chair
;
so
that
he
was
forc'd
to
make
use
of
the
Seat
that
belongs
to
the
Dean
of
the
Canons
,
which
is
the
first
on
the
Right-hand
next
the
Door
of
the
Quire
.
The
rest
of
the
Seats
in
the
same
Row
were
fill'd
by
the
Procurators
and
Senators
;
so
that
the
Doge
had
only
the
first
Place
among
the
Senators
,
without
any
other
Mark
of
Distinction
than
the
red
Velvet
with
which
his
Seat
was
cover'd
.
The
Doge's
Behaviour
during
the
Mass
was
not
very
edifying
,
for
he
spent
the
whole
time
in
discoursing
with
the
Nuncio
and
the
French
Ambassador
,
and
express'd
a
great
deal
of
Earnestness
by
his
Actions
.
Tho'
I
cou'd
not
pretend
to
divine
the
Subject
of
his
Discourse
,
I
cou'd
easily
perceive
that
he
talk'd
of
some
important
Affair
;
for
Monsieur
de
la
Haye
rose
from
his
Place
,
and
talk'd
with
him
above
a
quarter
of
an
Hour
,
chusing
rather
to
stand
while
the
Nuncio
sate
,
and
to
turn
his
Back
to
the
Altar
,
than
to
lose
the
Opportunity
of
imparting
something
with
which
,
in
all
probability
,
he
long'd
to
entertain
him
.
After
the
Mass
was
ended
,
the
Doge
and
Nobles
return'd
in
the
same
Order
as
before
,
to
the
Palace
of
S.
Mark
,
where
they
were
regal'd
by
the
New
Procurator
with
a
splendid
Collation
of
Wax
,
for
so
it
might
be
properly
call'd
,
since
most
of
the
Dishes
contain'd
nothing
else
.
The
whole
Table
was
cover'd
with
Trophies
,
Confections
,
Turky-Cocks
,
Partridges
,
and
Fruits
represented
in
Wax
,
excepting
two
or
three
Places
where
there
were
Dishes
of
good
and
delicious
Victuals
:
For
the
Italian
Cooks
are
at
least
as
skilful
as
ours
.
I
never
saw
People
eat
more
heartily
than
these
Gentlemen
,
and
I
'm
apt
to
believe
that
their
Custom
of
serving
up
the
Dishes
singly
might
sharpen
their
Appetite
;
for
't
is
certain
that
the
very
sight
of
a
full
Table
cloys
the
Stomach
.
Yet
I
cou'd
not
forbear
telling
one
of
the
Company
,
that
this
manner
of
Entertainment
,
and
especially
the
Feast
of
Trophies
was
very
odd
and
ridiculous
:
But
the
Person
to
whom
I
addrest
my self
,
made
a
shift
to
answer
my
Objection
by
pretending
that
they
observ'd
this
Method
to
avoid
the
trouble
of
covering
so
large
a
Table
several
times
,
which
cou'd
not
be
done
without
Confusion
.
That
and
the
two
following
Days
were
spent
in
rejoycing
;
The
Streets
were
full
of
People
in
Masquerade
,
and
the
Merchants
expos'd
their
richest
Commodities
.
There
was
nothing
to
be
seen
in
the
Shops
but
Brocado's
of
Gold
and
Silver
,
Galoons
,
Fringes
,
and
Ribbons
;
Sonnets
in
Honour
of
the
Procurator
were
scatter'd
about
by
Thousands
,
and
Prints
of
him
every
where
hung
out
.
At
Night
there
were
great
Illuminations
at
his
Palace
,
and
at
that
of
S.
Mark
;
and
the
whole
City
in
the
general
seem'd
to
be
full
of
Joy
;
tho'
't
is
certain
the
Pomp
wou'd
have
been
much
greater
if
the
Magistrates
,
to
whom
the
Regulation
of
such
Ceremonies
does
properly
belong
,
had
not
publish'd
an
Order
three
Days
before
,
to
moderate
the
Expence
of
the
Solemnity
:
For
otherwise
the
whole
City
wou'd
have
been
illuminated
,
the
Ladies
wou'd
have
adorn'd
themselves
with
Pearls
and
Jewels
,
all
the
Lacqueys
wou'd
have
appear'd
in
Liveries
,
and
the
Canal
wou'd
have
been
cover'd
with
magnificent
Gondola's
,
embellish'd
with
Flaggs
and
Streamers
,
and
fill'd
with
Consorts
of
Musick
.
Besides
the
Procurator's
Friends
wou'd
have
signaliz'd
their
Joy
in
a
particular
manner
,
by
Feasts
,
Illuminations
,
and
Fire-Works
:
But
all
this
Pageantry
was
prevented
by
a
positive
Order
from
the
above-mention'd
Tribunal
.
At
the
same
time
,
another
Edict
was
publish'd
,
which
concerns
all
Persons
in
general
,
and
is
only
a
Repetition
of
those
Regulations
that
were
formerly
made
on
such
Occasions
.
By
this
last
Order
all
Venetians
,
whether
Nobles
or
Citizens
,
are
prohibited
to
wear
any
sort
of
Stuff
,
embroider'd
Fringe
or
Galoon
,
of
Gold
,
Silver
,
Steel
,
or
any
thing
that
shines
or
casts
a
Lustre
.
The
same
Edict
forbids
Lace
,
new
Fashions
of
Cloaths
,
Liveries
,
and
the
Painting
or
Adorning
of
Gondola's
;
and
restrains
the
Women
from
using
Gold
or
Silver
Ribbons
,
and
from
wearing
above
three
Rows
of
Fringes
or
Lace
on
their
Pettycoats
,
and
even
those
Ornaments
must
only
be
worn
on
the
Fore-part
of
the
Pettycoat
.
But
those
who
are
call'd
Novices
are
allow'd
,
during
the
two
first
Years
of
their
Noviciate
,
to
wear
a
String
of
Pearls
,
and
a
Gold
Fringe
about
their
Pettycoats
.
The
Novices
are
such
as
are
newly
married
.
All
Strangers
are
excus'd
from
complying
with
this
Order
for
six
Months
after
the
Day
of
their
Arrival
;
but
assoon
as
that
time
is
expir'd
,
they
must
submit
to
the
Custom
as
well
as
the
Natives
,
unless
they
belong
to
the
Retinue
of
an
Ambassadour
;
tho'
Offences
of
this
Nature
are
rarely
punish'd
.
When
I
consider
the
extreme
Eagerness
with
which
the
Noble
Venetians
contend
for
the
Ducal
Dignity
,
I
cannot
forbear
reflecting
on
the
Weakness
of
Humane
Nature
,
which
exposes
us
to
the
most
fatal
Delusions
,
and
prompts
us
to
court
the
dazzling
Appearances
of
Grandeur
,
tho'
we
are
convinc'd
of
the
Vanity
of
that
Enjoyment
in
which
we
seem
to
place
our
Happiness
.
For
,
in
my
Opinion
,
the
Condition
of
a
simple
Senatour
is
infinitely
more
happy
than
that
of
the
Doge
.
He
is
permitted
to
enjoy
the
Pleasure
of
Walking
,
to
visit
his
Friends
,
and
to
go
to
the
Opera
and
Ridotti
.
He
is
not
perpetually
watch'd
,
and
haunted
Night
and
Day
by
a
Multitude
of
Spies
,
under
the
Name
of
Counsellours
;
nor
is
he
oblig'd
to
give
an
exact
Account
of
his
Actions
.
But
the
Doge
is
a
gawdy
Slave
loaded
with
Fetters
,
which
are
not
the
less
heavy
because
they
are
gilded
:
And
his
Authority
extends
no
farther
,
than
to
nominate
some
Officers
of
the
Palace
,
and
to
create
some
Knights
of
S.
Mark
.
This
Order
of
Knighthood
may
be
divided
into
three
Classes
or
Ranks
.
The
First
comprehends
the
Knights
of
the
Golden
Star
,
who
are
all
Noble
Veneians
,
that
owe
their
Dignity
to
their
Merit
,
and
wear
a
Star
border'd
with
a
Gold
Galoon
.
The
Second
Rank
consists
of
the
Knights
of
S.
Mark
,
who
are
call'd
Knights
of
the
Senate
:
And
this
Honour
is
usually
conferr'd
as
a
Recompence
,
on
Colonels
,
and
even
sometimes
on
Captains
,
who
have
signaliz'd
their
Bravery
in
an
extraordinary
manner
,
or
render'd
some
important
Services
to
the
Republic
.
The
Captain-General
recommends
the
Person
to
the
Senate
,
who
,
if
the
Balloting
run
in
his
Favour
,
receives
the
Order
,
and
with
it
a
Pension
of
at
least
a
Thousand
Ducats
a
Year
.
These
Knights
wear
a
Medal
at
one
of
their
Button-holes
,
with
the
Figure
of
S.
Mark
on
one
Side
,
and
a
Device
on
the
Reverse
,
according
to
the
Pleasure
of
the
Senate
.
They
are
honour'd
with
the
Title
of
Illustrissimo
,
and
are
much
respected
:
but
the
Dignity
is
indifferently
bestow'd
upon
all
,
whether
Noble
or
Ignoble
,
Venetians
or
Foreigners
.
The
Third
and
last
Rank
is
made
up
of
the
Doge's
Knights
,
who
confers
the
Honour
on
whom
he
pleases
,
and
oftentimes
on
those
who
never
wore
a
Sword
;
for
any
Man
may
purchase
the
Title
of
Illustrissimo
at
the
Rate
of
a
Hundred
Sequins
,
which
,
if
I
am
not
mistaken
,
is
the
usual
Price
of
this
Dignity
.
Yet
notwithstanding
the
Lowness
of
the
Rate
,
the
Doge
finds
but
few
Customers
;
for
the
Italians
are
not
over-fond
of
so
unprofitable
Honour
.
So
that
this
Classis
of
Knights
consists
chiefly
of
Foreign
Officers
,
who
receive
some
Benefit
by
the
Title
;
since
it
not
only
procures
'em
a
more
than
ordinary
Respect
,
but
confirms
'em
in
the
Possession
of
their
Employments
.
Since
the
mentioning
of
these
Officers
puts
me
in
mind
of
the
Venetian
Army
,
I
shall
take
this
Occasion
to
give
you
some
Account
of
the
Forces
that
are
maintain'd
by
the
Republick
.
The
total
Number
of
the
Soldiers
both
at
Land
and
Sea
,
hardly
amounts
to
Four
and
twenty
thousand
;
and
of
these
there
are
usually
Twelve
or
Fifteen
thousand
in
the
Field
.
The
Captain-General
,
who
commands
'em
,
is
always
a
Noble
Venetian
,
and
has
under
him
a
General
of
the
Land-Forces
,
Lieutenant-Generals
,
and
Sergeant-Majors
,
who
are
almost
al-always
Foreigners
;
for
the
Noble
Venetians
are
not
very
ambitious
of
Military
Employments
.
'T
is
true
,
they
cannot
be
accus'd
of
Want
of
Courage
;
but
since
a
Soldier
must
serve
his
Apprenticeship
with
his
Musquet
on
his
Shoulder
,
before
he
can
attain
to
any
Perfection
in
his
Art
,
they
cannot
endure
to
think
of
stooping
so
low
:
and
even
there
is
hardly
one
of
'em
that
wou'd
not
think
it
beneath
him
to
accept
a
Captain
's
Commission
.
The
Soldiers
are
for
the
most
part
Foreigners
,
as
well
as
the
Generals
;
for
,
except
three
or
four
small
Italian
Regiments
,
which
are
not
much
esteem'd
,
the
rest
of
the
Army
consists
either
of
Germans
,
or
Frenchmen
,
whom
they
call
Tramontani
.
The
Pay
of
Foreigners
is
double
to
that
which
is
allow'd
to
the
Italians
;
and
no
Captain
must
receive
a
Soldier
of
another
Nation
into
his
Company
,
under
Pain
of
being
cashier'd
without
Remission
.
But
the
same
Order
is
not
observ'd
in
the
Italian
Regiments
,
for
any
Man
may
be
admitted
to
serve
in
'em
.
And
since
the
Foreign
Captains
wou'd
be
at
a
Loss
for
want
of
Men
,
the
Republic
takes
care
to
supply
'em
with
Recruits
:
Only
they
must
be
very
cautious
in
preventing
the
Desertion
of
their
Men
;
for
when
a
Company
is
extremely
diminish'd
,
the
Captain
is
always
reform'd
,
and
the
Soldiers
serve
to
recruit
the
rest
of
the
Regiment
.
I
know
several
Officers
,
who
lost
their
Places
by
Misfortunes
of
this
Nature
;
which
sometimes
cannot
be
avoided
,
especially
among
the
French
,
who
desert
by
Hundreds
at
a
time
.
If
it
were
not
for
this
only
Inconveniency
,
I
shou'd
have
a
very
good
Opinion
of
the
Venetian
Service
;
for
a
Foreign
Captain
has
no
less
than
a
Hundred
Ducats
a
Month
,
which
makes
Two
hundred
and
fifty
French
Livres
;
a
Lieutenant
has
Thirty
,
and
an
Ensign
Twenty
five
.
Besides
there
is
not
a
Place
in
the
World
where
a
Soldier
has
a
nearer
Prospect
of
Advancement
;
for
since
the
Army
is
not
very
Numerous
,
and
the
Noble
Venetians
never
pretend
to
Military
Preferments
,
a
Stranger
has
a
fair
Opportunity
of
raising
his
Fortune
:
So
that
a
Captain
must
either
be
extremely
unfortunate
,
or
negligent
in
the
Performance
of
his
Duty
,
if
his
Service
be
not
rewarded
with
a
Colonel's
Commission
,
or
even
with
more
considerable
Preferment
.
The
Army
is
full
of
Sergeant-Majors
,
who
owe
their
Fortune
meerly
to
their
Merit
;
and
there
is
no
Post
so
high
which
a
brave
Man
may
not
in
time
hope
to
obtain
.
'T
is
a
wonderful
Encouragement
to
a
Young
Aspirer
,
to
see
daily
so
many
Examples
that
flatter
and
excite
his
Ambition
.
Besides
their
travelling
by
Sea
frees
'em
from
the
Charge
of
providing
an
Equipage
;
which
is
a
great
Advantage
to
those
who
are
not
over-stock'd
with
Money
.
Add
to
these
Conveniencies
the
free
and
unconstrain'd
Way
of
living
a-la-mode
de
Venice
;
and
it
must
be
acknowledg'd
,
that
a
Man
may
easily
chuse
a
less
comfortable
Employment
.
I
know
the
World
has
generally
so
bad
an
Opinion
of
the
Venetian
Service
,
that
't
is
usually
the
last
Refuge
of
those
who
are
reduc'd
to
Extremity
:
Nor
am
I
ignorant
that
the
Officers
are
not
here
on
the
same
Foot
as
in
France
,
and
that
the
meanest
Scoundrels
find
Admittance
;
but
,
after
all
,
the
Service
is
not
really
less
advantageous
for
these
Inconveniencies
.
But
,
as
for
the
Common
Soldiers
,
their
Condition
is
so
miserable
,
that
I
wou'd
rather
chuse
to
serve
a
Tinker
,
than
to
carry
a
Musquet
at
Venice
.
Their
Pay
amounts
to
no
more
than
Three
Pence
a
Day
;
and
besides
they
must
furnish
their
own
Clothes
.
Judge
then
what
Provision
they
can
make
for
their
Bellies
,
and
whether
their
Desertion
can
be
reckon'd
a
Fault
.
Those
who
serve
at
Sea
have
the
same
Pay
,
and
Clothes
into
the
Bargain
;
but
they
must
buy
their
Provisions
,
for
they
are
allow'd
only
Bread
and
Water
.
There
are
Eleven
Ships
belonging
to
the
Republic
,
commanded
by
the
Captain-General
;
for
there
is
no
Admiral
.
But
besides
the
little
Care
that
is
taken
to
keep
'em
in
Repair
,
they
are
so
defective
in
all
Respects
,
that
they
hardly
deserve
the
Name
of
Ships
,
much
less
of
Men
of
War
.
In
every
Ship
there
is
a
Noble
Venetian
,
with
the
Title
of
Commander
,
who
pehaps
never
saw
a
Mast
before
his
coming
on
Board
:
but
he
has
under
him
a
Captain
,
whom
he
consults
,
or
rather
suffers
to
command
.
These
Captains
(
who
are
usually
old
and
expert
Pilots
)
have
Thirty
Ducats
a
Month
besides
their
Entertainment
;
and
may
in
time
be
advanc'd
to
the
Command
of
a
Merchant-Ship
,
if
the
Owners
think
fit
to
trust
'em
.
The
Banner
of
Venice
is
Red
,
with
a
Lyon
in
the
Middle
,
holding
an
open
Book
in
one
of
his
Paws
,
with
these
Words
,
Pax
tibi
,
Marce
,
Evangelista
meus
.
Many
take
this
Lyon
for
the
Arms
of
Venice
,
but
they
are
extremely
mistaken
;
for
the
Republic
has
no
Coat
of
Arms
,
and
wou'd
be
loth
to
adorn
a
Scutcheon
with
that
Sacred
Beast
,
whom
they
honour
as
an
Emblem
of
S.
Mark
,
or
rather
that
Evangelist
himself
represented
under
the
Figure
of
a
Lyon
.
I
knew
that
Painters
usually
give
that
Saint
a
Lyon
for
his
Companion
;
but
I
cou'd
not
believe
that
the
Venetian
Lyon
was
the
Saint
himself
,
till
I
was
convinc'd
by
the
repeated
Affirmations
of
several
credible
Persons
,
and
even
of
some
Noblemen
;
who
,
to
satisfie
my
Scruples
,
told
me
the
following
Story
.
S.
Mark
was
a
Youth
of
such
exquisite
Beauty
,
that
his
only
Sister
fell
so
desperately
in
Love
with
him
,
that
notwithstanding
all
his
Holy
Admonitions
,
she
haunted
him
Night
and
Day
,
follow'd
him
whithersoever
he
went
,
and
continually
begg'd
him
to
satisfie
her
Passion
.
At
last
the
young
Saint
perceiving
that
all
his
Severity
cou'd
not
extinguish
her
Criminal
Flame
,
besought
God
to
transform
him
into
the
most
hideous
Creature
in
the
World
.
His
Prayer
was
granted
,
and
he
was
instantly
turn'd
to
a
Lyon
,
whose
gaping
Mouth
,
and
horrid
Roaring
,
so
terrify'd
his
Sister
,
that
immediately
she
fell
upon
her
Knees
,
pray'd
to
God
to
forgive
her
,
and
was
converted
.
The
Open
Book
he
holds
in
his
Talons
,
represents
the
Gospel
,
of
which
they
pretend
to
have
the
Original
in
the
Treasury
;
and
the
Words
that
are
written
in
it
are
the
same
with
which
Christ
saluted
him
when
he
came
to
visit
him
in
Prison
.
Perhaps
you
'll
think
that
this
Story
deserves
a
place
in
Ovid's
Metamorphoses
;
but
I
can
assure
you
the
Venetians
are
oblig'd
to
believe
it
,
under
Pain
of
being
accounted
Hereticks
.
Sometimes
they
represent
him
with
,
and
sometimes
without
Wings
,
but
they
seldom
or
never
forget
to
draw
Rays
about
his
Head
;
and
very
often
the
Doge
is
painted
kneeling
before
him
.
At
least
he
is
thus
represented
in
all
the
most
remarkable
Places
,
such
as
the
Front
of
the
Palace
of
S.
Mark
,
&c.
I
'm
sensible
I
have
already
detain'd
you
too
long
,
but
I
must
not
finish
my
Letter
before
I
have
finish'd
the
Account
I
promis'd
to
give
you
of
the
Venetian
Nobles
.
I
had
form'd
so
strange
an
Idea
from
the
Character
I
had
receiv'd
of
'em
,
that
I
look'd
upon
'em
as
the
most
Haughty
and
Ill-natur'd
Men
in
the
World
.
And
even
a
Famous
Author
has
the
Confidence
to
affirm
that
one
of
their
usual
Recreations
is
to
affront
Strangers
who
seem
to
be
Persons
of
Note
;
thrusting
'em
into
the
Canal
as
they
walk
along
the
Streets
,
spitting
upon
'em
at
the
Opera
,
beating
'em
with
flaming
Torches
,
and
hiring
Bravo's
to
murder
'em
.
Yet
to
do
Justice
to
that
Illustrious
Body
,
I
can
assure
you
,
that
I
never
met
with
more
civil
and
obliging
Persons
in
the
World
.
I
have
the
Honour
to
know
two
or
three
of
'em
,
and
perceive
daily
so
many
conspicuous
Marks
of
good
Nature
in
all
their
Actions
,
that
I
cannot
,
without
Indignation
,
reflect
on
the
Impudence
of
those
who
have
so
unjustly
blacken'd
their
Character
.
'T
is
true
,
they
take
Care
to
maintain
the
Honour
of
their
Birth
,
and
their
Authority
over
the
Citizens
and
the
rest
of
their
Subjects
:
but
they
are
so
far
from
insulting
or
tyrannizing
over
'em
,
that
they
are
always
ready
to
grant
their
Protection
to
honest
Men
;
and
as
for
Strangers
,
there
is
not
a
City
in
the
World
where
they
meet
with
a
kinder
and
more
civil
Entertainment
.
They
may
do
what
they
please
,
for
no
Man
either
enquires
into
,
or
comments
upon
their
Actions
;
and
when
they
meet
with
a
Nobleman
,
they
are
treated
with
all
imaginable
Marks
of
Honour
and
Civility
.
There
are
several
Coffee-Houses
under
the
Procuraties
,
some
of
which
are
set
apart
for
the
Nobility
;
and
that
Order
is
so
strictly
observ'd
that
a
Citizen
never
enters
into
'em
.
But
if
a
Foreigner
,
who
has
the
Appearance
of
a
Gentleman
,
go
in
to
one
of
these
Places
,
all
the
Nobles
that
are
there
begin
immediately
to
caress
him
;
and
there
is
not
one
of
'em
who
wou'd
not
willingly
embrace
the
Offer
of
his
Acquaintance
,
provided
he
belongs
not
to
the
Retinue
of
an
Ambassador
:
for
they
are
severely
prohibited
by
the
Laws
of
the
State
to
entertain
any
correspondence
with
such
Persons
.
As
for
the
Bravo's
,
I
will
not
pretend
to
affirm
that
Venice
was
never
plagu'd
with
those
barbarous
and
inhuman
Murderers
.
It
must
be
acknowledg'd
that
the
Senate
tolerated
these
Abuses
too
long
:
There
was
a
time
when
some
Nobles
kept
Fifteen
or
Twenty
o●
those
Ruffians
;
and
there
were
others
who
were
still
ready
to
serve
any
Man
in
their
Way
,
that
is
,
for
so
many
Sequins
wou'd
agree
to
kill
a
Man
,
or
to
break
his
Arms
for
such
a
Number
of
Ducats
.
But
the
Face
of
Affairs
is
wonderfully
chang'd
since
that
time
,
and
so
vast
a
Number
of
those
Villains
have
ended
their
Lives
either
on
a
Gibbet
,
or
in
the
Galleys
,
that
the
Race
of
'em
seems
to
be
quite
extinct
.
The
Shirts
of
Mail
that
were
sold
in
those
Days
for
Fifty
Pistoles
a-piece
,
are
now
sold
for
half
a
Crown
to
Fishermen
,
who
use
'em
for
catching
Oysters
:
For
these
Cautions
,
that
were
once
thought
so
necessary
for
preventing
secret
Assassinations
,
are
now
become
so
useless
,
that
one
may
walk
as
secure
thro'
the
City
by
Night
as
by
Day
,
and
during
the
Carnaval
as
in
Lent
:
At
least
I
have
not
yet
heard
of
any
Disord●rs
since
my
Arrival
.
On
the
contrary
,
I
shou'd
never
desire
to
converse
with
a
more
harmless
and
peaceable
People
;
and
if
there
are
any
Insolencies
committed
,
I
shou'd
rather
accuse
the
French
as
the
Authors
of
'em
,
who
in
this
,
as
well
as
in
all
other
Places
,
assume
those
Liberties
by
which
they
affect
to
distinguish
themselves
from
other
Nations
.
Only
I
wou'd
not
advise
any
Man
to
hunt
too
boldly
in
a
Nobleman's
Inclosure
;
for
't
is
certain
that
there
is
none
of
'em
so
Complaisant
as
to
see
his
Wife
kiss'd
,
without
resenting
the
Affront
,
and
that
notwithstanding
the
seeming
Extirpation
of
the
Bravo's
,
the
injur'd
Nobleman
wou'd
quickly
find
a
sufficient
Number
of
'em
to
execute
his
Revenge
.
Their
Jealousie
is
accompany'd
with
so
implacable
a
Fury
,
that
they
wou'd
rather
ruine
themselves
and
their
whole
Family
,
than
suffer
a
bold
Intruder
into
their
secret
Delights
to
escape
unpunish'd
;
and
after
they
had
sacrific'd
the
Lover
to
their
Rage
,
they
wou'd
infallibly
compleat
their
Revenge
by
the
Death
of
her
who
betray'd
'em
.
Such
Accidents
have
sometimes
happen'd
,
and
't
is
to
be
observ'd
,
that
in
such
Cases
the
Senate
never
enquires
into
the
Murder
.
For
every
Nobleman
may
poison
his
Wife
for
Adultery
,
and
cause
her
Gallant
to
be
poniarded
,
without
fearing
to
be
call'd
in
question
for
so
bloody
a
Revenge
;
since
't
is
suppos'd
that
no
Man
wou'd
have
recourse
to
such
violent
Methods
,
if
he
were
not
fully
convinc'd
of
his
Wife's
Infidelity
.
I
confess
this
way
of
satisfying
their
Revenge
seems
at
first
View
to
be
extremely
base
and
unworthy
of
a
Man
of
Honour
:
But
you
will
be
the
less
surpriz'd
at
their
manner
of
Proceeding
in
these
Cases
,
if
you
consider
that
,
notwithstanding
their
Nobility
,
't
is
not
their
Profession
to
bear
Arms.
For
they
are
as
much
Men
of
the
Gown
as
the
Presidents
of
the
Parliament
at
Paris
;
and
are
therefore
under
a
sort
of
Obligation
to
abstain
from
Duels
.
Nevertheless
since
't
is
not
just
that
they
shou'd
tamely
suffer
themselves
to
be
Cuckolded
,
they
must
execute
their
Vengeance
by
Proxy
,
since
their
Profession
restrains
em
from
making
their
own
Hands
the
Instruments
of
their
Revenge
.
I
shall
in
the
next
place
give
you
a
short
Account
of
their
Habit
:
They
wear
a
black
Gown
exactly
like
that
of
a
Minime
Friar
;
only
't
is
longer
,
wider
,
and
open
before
;
the
Sleeves
are
so
big
that
they
hang
down
almost
to
the
Ground
,
and
they
have
a
little
Collar
or
Neckband
like
that
which
is
us'd
by
the
Jesuites
.
In
the
Winter
their
Gowns
are
lin'd
with
a
greyish
Fur
,
which
reaches
a
hands-breadth
beyond
the
Cloth
,
all
along
the
Breast
,
and
are
ty'd
about
with
a
Leathern-Girdle
,
adorn'd
with
Silver
Buckles
and
Bosses
.
In
Summer
they
use
neither
Girdles
nor
Furrs
;
for
they
wear
their
Vests
loose
by
reason
of
the
Heat
,
and
line
'em
with
very
thin
Taffata
:
But
they
still
wear
Cloth
Gowns
of
the
same
bigness
as
in
Winter
.
On
their
Shoulders
they
wear
a
sort
of
Bag
or
Hood
of
the
same
Cloth
,
call'd
the
Stole
,
18
or
20
Inches
broad
,
and
twice
as
long
,
which
is
extremely
troublesome
.
Under
their
Gowns
they
have
only
a
little
Doublet
,
almost
quite
cover'd
with
black
Lace
,
and
adorn'd
with
Ribbans
at
the
turning
up
of
the
Sleeves
.
Their
Shirts
are
always
very
white
and
fine
.
Their
Breeches
are
open
and
very
wide
,
like
those
that
were
us'd
by
Citizens
in
France
Fifty
Years
ago
;
and
they
are
also
full
of
Lace
and
Ribbans
.
This
Garb
is
both
stately
and
cheap
;
for
a
Gown
lasts
at
least
three
or
four
Years
.
The
only
Fault
I
find
in
their
Habit
is
that
they
use
neither
Bands
nor
Cravates
.
Formerly
they
were
oblig'd
to
wear
their
own
Hair
,
but
now
they
use
the
finest
and
longest
Periwigs
,
which
is
certainly
one
of
the
most
necessary
parts
of
their
Dress
:
for
their
Caps
are
so
ill-contriv'd
,
that
there
can
be
nothing
more
proper
to
disfigure
a
Man's
Face
,
which
perhaps
is
the
reason
why
at
present
they
only
wear
'em
in
their
Hands
like
a
Fan.
These
Nobles
,
notwithstanding
the
Dignity
of
their
Character
,
scruple
not
to
go
to
the
Market
,
and
buy
all
the
little
Provisions
that
are
requir'd
for
the
maintaining
of
a
Family
.
But
I
believe
they
are
injur'd
by
those
who
pretend
that
they
carry
home
their
Provisions
in
the
Sleeves
of
their
Gowns
;
for
there
are
Porters
or
Cestarioli
,
who
have
no
other
Occupation
,
and
whose
Hire
is
so
small
,
that
even
the
meanest
Tradesmen
make
use
of
'em
.
Nor
must
you
imagine
that
the
Principal
and
Rich
Nobles
buy
their
own
Provisions
;
for
the
Markets
are
only
frequented
by
the
poorer
sort
of
Gentlemen
,
of
whom
there
is
a
considerable
Number
,
and
whose
Condition
is
the
more
deplorable
,
because
they
must
not
endeavour
to
improve
it
by
Trading
.
I
know
not
what
Apology
to
make
for
the
excessive
Length
of
my
Letter
,
unless
you
will
be
satisfy'd
with
that
common
Excuse
for
all
sorts
of
Faults
,
that
I
did
not
intend
it
.
I
confess
that
will
not
make
amends
for
the
trouble
I
have
given
you
,
but
I
hope
you
'll
for
once
admit
a
Plea
that
can
never
be
more
justly
urg'd
than
in
Cases
of
this
Nature
;
for
it
oftentimes
happens
,
that
when
a
Man
comes
to
the
End
of
the
Leaf
where
he
design'd
to
have
ended
his
Letter
,
he
finds
himself
oblig'd
to
begin
another
,
and
perhaps
two
or
three
before
he
can
finish
his
Matter
.
I
am
,
SIR
,
Your
,
&c.
Venice
,
1692.
LETTER
XXIX
.
SIR
,
I
Have
seen
the
famous
Ceremony
of
Ascension-Day
,
and
was
so
transported
with
Pleasure
at
the
Sight
of
that
celebrated
Solemnity
,
that
I
was
strongly
tempted
,
and
almost
fully
resolv'd
to
send
you
a
Description
of
it
.
But
upon
second
and
cooler
Thoughts
,
I
consider'd
that
I
cou'd
add
nothing
to
what
so
many
Authors
have
already
said
on
that
Subject
,
and
therefore
I
shall
only
tell
you
,
that
the
prodigious
Quantity
of
Gondola's
that
cover'd
the
whole
Surface
of
the
Sea
from
Venice
to
the
Mouth
of
the
Lido
,
made
me
almost
give
Credit
to
the
usual
Computation
of
the
Venetians
,
who
affirm
,
that
there
are
Five
and
twenty
Thousand
Gondola's
in
the
City
.
The
Number
of
those
little
Vessels
might
be
more
easily
calculated
than
that
of
the
Inhabitants
;
because
every
Gondolier
is
oblig'd
to
pay
a
certain
Tax
to
the
State
.
The
Dexterity
of
these
Boatmen
is
surprizing
,
and
even
almost
incredible
;
for
tho'
they
seem
to
fly
as
swift
as
a
Bird
,
and
tho'
the
Canals
are
both
narrow
,
and
in
several
Places
cross
one
another
,
they
never
run
foul
of
those
whom
they
meet
.
To
avoid
the
Disorders
that
happen
on
such
Occasions
,
they
make
a
Noise
at
each
Corner
of
the
Canal
to
give
Warning
to
those
that
are
within
the
reach
of
their
Voice
,
who
answer
in
a
Dialect
consisting
of
Words
that
are
only
known
to
themselves
,
such
as
Preci
,
Prami
,
and
Sia
,
which
they
understand
so
well
,
that
immediately
they
turn
their
Gondola's
,
and
pass
by
without
touching
one
another
.
These
Gondola's
,
which
are
all
made
after
the
same
Fashion
,
from
that
which
belongs
to
the
first
Procurator
to
those
that
are
commonly
hir'd
,
are
a
sort
of
flat-bottom'd
,
narrow
,
and
very
long
Boats
.
In
the
middle
there
is
a
little
Chamber
cover'd
with
course
black
Serge
,
with
an
Opening
before
instead
of
a
Door
;
and
on
each
Side
there
is
a
Window
that
may
be
shut
with
Curtains
,
or
sometimes
with
a
Piece
of
the
same
Serge
which
hangs
at
the
Top
of
the
Gondola
,
and
is
usually
turn'd
up
in
fair
Weather
.
The
Price
of
a
Gondola
ready
made
amounts
to
five
and
twenty
Ducats
;
but
in
those
that
belong
to
some
of
the
principal
Noblemen
,
there
are
Grates
that
sometimes
cost
above
a
Hundred
Crowns
;
and
besides
,
the
Windows
may
be
adorn'd
with
Glasses
like
those
that
are
us'd
on
Coaches
;
which
is
all
the
Embellishment
that
is
allow'd
by
the
Republick
.
The
meanest
Gondolier
earns
half
a
Ducat
a
Day
;
and
there
are
some
who
will
not
serve
under
a
Crown
:
So
that
considering
that
every
Gondola
requires
four
Men
,
it
will
be
found
at
the
End
of
the
Reckoning
that
one
of
these
Boats
consumes
as
much
Money
as
the
keeping
of
a
Coach
and
Six
Horses
.
The
Ceremony
of
the
Bucentaur
,
according
to
the
usual
Custom
,
was
succeeded
by
a
very
magnificent
Feast
,
that
lasted
Fifteen
Days
.
This
may
be
reckon'd
a
second
Carnaval
,
and
does
really
exceed
the
first
.
'T
is
true
,
there
are
no
Opera's
nor
Comedies
,
but
that
Defect
is
more
than
supply'd
by
the
enlivening
Beauty
of
the
Season
,
and
by
one
of
the
finest
and
richest
Fairs
in
Europe
,
which
is
kept
in
the
Place
of
S.
Mark
,
and
in
the
Broglio
,
where
the
Shops
are
rank'd
with
such
a
harmonious
Proportion
and
Uniformity
,
that
one
wou'd
think
it
were
a
City
purposely
built
for
Pleasure
.
The
Street
of
the
Goldsmiths
,
and
that
of
the
Mercers
are
extremely
magnificent
;
for
the
Shops
are
full
of
the
richest
Commodities
,
and
every
Morning
and
Evening
one
may
have
the
Pleasure
to
see
the
best
Company
in
Town
,
and
especially
the
Ladies
,
who
come
to
oblige
the
longing
Spectators
with
a
View
of
their
Charms
,
and
to
make
Strangers
confess
that
they
are
better
furnish'd
with
the
noblest
Ornament
of
their
Sex
than
all
the
most
celebrated
Beauties
in
other
Countries
.
And
I
cannot
forbear
adding
upon
this
Occasion
,
that
the
Liberty
I
observ'd
in
this
Place
seems
to
be
altogether
inconsistent
with
the
Slavery
which
these
fair
ones
are
said
to
suffer
.
'T
is
certain
that
the
Ladies
in
this
Place
are
more
closely
confin'd
than
in
France
;
but
their
Restraint
is
not
so
severe
as
we
commonly
imagine
.
'T
is
true
,
't
wou'd
be
thought
indecent
for
a
Woman
to
walk
,
or
to
entertain
a
private
Discourse
with
those
of
our
Sex
;
nor
is
it
usual
for
Ladies
to
make
Matches
for
Gaming
.
But
to
make
amends
for
these
Niceties
,
they
are
permitted
to
see
Opera's
and
Plays
,
to
go
to
the
Ridotti
,
the
Fresco
,
and
Fairs
,
and
to
walk
about
the
Streets
in
Masquerade
,
either
alone
or
in
Company
.
I
leave
you
to
judge
whether
their
Confinement
be
so
rigorous
as
't
is
usually
represented
,
and
whether
they
have
reason
to
complain
of
the
Severity
of
their
Husbands
.
For
my
part
,
I
'm
apt
to
think
that
there
are
few
Men
in
France
or
Holland
that
wou'd
willingly
allow
their
Wives
the
Liberty
to
go
abroad
without
any
other
Company
than
one
or
two
Maids
,
and
after
they
have
run
Masqu'd
about
the
Streets
all
Day
long
,
to
pop
into
a
publick
Gaming-House
,
where
there
are
more
Courtesans
than
any
other
Company
.
This
is
the
usual
Recreation
of
the
Venetian
Ladies
,
which
they
daily
use
without
exposing
themselves
to
their
Husband's
Anger
,
or
the
Censure
of
their
Neighbours
;
tho'
in
such
Frolicks
they
meet
with
many
a
fair
Opportunity
of
indulging
themselves
in
more
criminal
Diversions
;
for
they
are
perpetually
surrounded
with
Temptations
,
and
't
is
impossible
for
a
Lady
to
ramble
about
a
whole
Day
without
hearing
Twenty
Compliments
of
that
Nature
.
'T
is
the
Custom
of
the
Place
,
and
the
particular
Privilege
both
of
the
Carnaval
and
Fair
,
that
any
Man
may
demand
the
last
Favour
of
a
Woman
whom
he
finds
alone
in
a
Vizor-Mask
;
for
that
Circumstance
alone
gives
her
the
Denomination
of
Signora
Mascara
,
and
she
's
reckon'd
as
lawful
Prize
as
if
she
were
cloath'd
in
the
obscenest
and
most
extravagant
Garb.
You
may
freely
accost
any
Woman
that
wears
this
Badge
,
without
putting
off
your
Hat
,
or
using
any
other
Ceremony
whatsoever
;
but
if
they
return
no
Answer
to
your
second
or
third
Question
,
you
may
leave
off
your
Courtship
,
and
conclude
that
they
will
not
be
debauch'd
.
Nevertheless
't
is
highly
dangerous
to
use
the
same
Freedom
with
a
Lady
that
walks
without
a
Mask
;
for
in
such
Cases
we
are
only
allow'd
the
Privilege
of
Gazing
and
Wishing
,
and
all
other
Liberties
are
so
rigorously
prohibited
,
that
the
highest
Affront
that
can
be
offer'd
to
a
Woman
,
is
to
salute
her
;
for
none
but
Curtezans
will
permit
that
Freedom
.
These
Masquerades
are
not
only
very
diverting
,
but
extremely
commodious
for
several
sorts
of
People
.
How
many
Persons
are
there
who
wou'd
be
confin'd
to
their
Houses
by
the
Gravity
of
their
Character
,
if
such
a
Disguise
did
not
give
'em
an
Opportunity
of
sharing
in
the
publi●
Diversions
.
How
many
Princes
,
Dukes
,
Procurators
,
and
other
Persons
of
high
Quality
,
take
the
Advantage
of
so
savourable
an
Occasion
to
shake
off
that
Load
of
Grandeur
with
which
they
are
continually
oppress'd
;
and
breaking
loose
from
their
gawdy
Prisons
,
ramble
about
Incognito
among
the
Crowd
,
and
find
more
Pleasure
in
personating
a
Citizen
or
Tradesman
,
than
ever
they
cou'd
enjoy
in
their
Palaces
.
For
a
Mask
has
this
admirable
Quality
,
that
it
can
in
a
Moment
transform
a
Prince
into
a
Porter
;
and
one
of
the
greatest
Advantages
of
such
a
surprizing
Metamorphosis
is
,
that
every
Man
may
resume
his
own
Figure
when
he
pleases
.
If
we
may
believe
the
Venetians
,
a
certain
Great
Prince
,
who
is
known
over
all
the
World
,
scrupl'd
not
to
act
a
part
in
these
agreeable
Frolicks
.
The
whole
Carnaval
,
and
the
Festival
after
Ascension-Day
is
spent
in
Masquerading
,
and
all
that
while
there
seems
to
be
a
New
Republic
form'd
in
the
midst
of
the
other
.
There
is
an
universal
Change
in
the
Habits
,
Customs
,
and
Laws
.
All
Marks
of
Distinction
and
Superiority
are
forgotten
,
or
at
least
neglected
;
All
Persons
are
,
or
seem
to
be
equal
:
Respect
,
Constraint
,
Ceremony
,
Care
,
and
Business
,
are
banish'd
from
Society
,
and
are
succeeded
by
Joy
,
Liberty
,
and
an
agreeable
Sort
of
Folly
.
Under
this
Disguise
many
pleasant
Intrigues
are
carry'd
on
;
and
Strangers
are
oblig'd
to
that
Concealer
of
Blushes
for
many
a
happy
Moment
.
I
know
one
that
was
accosted
by
a
Lady
,
who
carry'd
him
to
a
little
House
;
where
,
having
open'd
the
Door
with
a
Key
that
she
had
in
her
Pocket
,
she
put
him
in
Possession
of
a
thousand
charming
Beauties
;
yet
all
his
Arguments
and
Intreaties
cou'd
not
procure
him
a
sight
of
her
Face
;
for
her
Mask
was
ty'd
on
with
a
Silver
Chain
fasten'd
with
a
little
Padlock
.
But
the
strangest
Mascara
that
ever
I
had
occasion
to
see
,
or
perhaps
that
ever
appear'd
in
Venice
,
was
a
Woman
who
came
to
the
Fair
,
cover'd
from
Head
to
Foot
with
a
sort
of
long
Gown
or
Shroud
.
She
had
no
Clothes
under
it
,
not
so
much
as
a
Smock
,
and
from
time
to
time
she
open'd
her
Gown
,
and
oblig'd
the
Company
with
a
full
View
of
her
Wares
.
Thus
she
walk'd
three
or
four
times
about
the
Fair
,
and
was
doubtless
very
narrowly
and
attententively
view'd
by
the
Spectators
.
This
Frollick
was
thought
to
be
occasion'd
by
a
Wager
.
During
the
Fair
,
the
whole
Place
of
S.
Mark
,
and
part
of
the
Broglio
,
is
cover'd
with
Shops
:
The
other
part
is
full
of
Juglers
,
Tumblers
,
Puppet-Players
,
Bears
,
and
Mountebanks
,
who
are
dancing
frequented
by
all
sorts
of
People
,
from
the
Nobleman
to
the
Gondelier
.
But
the
greatest
Croud
is
about
certain
Female-Astrologers
,
who
are
mounted
on
little
Stages
or
Scaffolds
,
cover'd
with
Lace
and
Ribbons
like
Puppets
;
their
Faces
painted
white
and
red
,
and
surrounded
with
a
great
Number
of
Books
,
full
of
Figures
and
Characters
,
tho'
they
understand
no
more
of
'em
than
to
distinguish
the
White
from
the
Black
.
There
are
also
some
Men
who
follow
the
same
Trade
;
but
they
are
not
so
much
follow'd
as
the
Women
,
whose
triple
Top-knots
draw
the
Multitude
after
'em
.
They
sit
upon
a
Chair
,
from
whence
,
as●from
a
Tripos
,
they
blow
good
Fortune
to
their
Customers
thro'
a
Tin
Trunk
eight
or
ten
Foot
long
,
the
Querist
putting
the
other
End
to
his
Ear.
The
Price
of
a
Consultation
is
no
more
than
Five-pence
;
and
for
so
small
a
Summ
you
may
have
the
Promise
of
as
much
Honour
and
Riches
as
you
please
.
These
Wenches
,
who
sometimes
are
not
ugly
,
observe
an
admirable
Gravity
in
pronouncing
their
Responses
;
but
they
are
not
so
starch'd
in
private
,
and
may
be
easily
prevail'd
with
to
lay
aside
their
affected
Severity
.
One
of
my
Friends
,
who
is
a
Germain
Officer
,
happen'd
t'other
Day
to
try
the
Experiment
;
and
since
the
Story
is
not
unpleasant
,
I
shall
make
bold
to
entertain
you
with
it
.
As
we
were
taking
our
Diversion
in
the
Fair
,
we
took
particular
Notice
of
one
of
those
She-Astrologers
,
who
was
one
of
the
prettyest
and
gravest
of
the
whole
Tribe
.
She
was
surrounded
with
a
Croud
of
People
of
all
Ages
and
Ranks
,
who
approach'd
one
after
another
to
the
End
of
her
Trunk
to
learn
their
Fate
,
and
to
hear
the
Oraculous
Sentences
which
she
pronounc'd
with
an
incredible
Majesty
and
Authority
.
My
Friend
took
his
Turn
among
the
rest
,
and
after
she
had
acquainted
him
with
his
Fortune
,
told
her
that
he
was
desirous
to
consult
her
about
some
private
Affair
,
and
therefore
intreated
her
to
turn
the
other
End
of
the
Trunk
,
that
he
might
communicate
his
Secret
to
her
without
disclosing
it
to
the
Company
.
But
instead
of
proposing
some
Questions
to
her
about
his
Fortune
,
he
told
her
thro'
her
Trunk
,
that
he
came
not
to
desire
the
Assistance
of
her
pretended
Art
,
which
serv'd
only
to
amuse
the
Vulgar
;
that
't
was
in
her
Power
to
grant
him
a
more
solid
Favour
;
and
that
his
Business
was
to
enquire
where
and
when
he
might
spend
a
Night
with
her
.
Assoon
as
she
had
heard
his
Proposal
,
she
turn'd
the
Trunk
and
reply'd
,
that
he
ought
not
to
be
surpriz'd
at
her
way
of
Living
,
by
imposing
upon
the
Credulity
of
the
People
,
since
the
only
Occupation
of
the
greatest
part
of
Mankind
consisted
in
cheating
one
another
,
every
one
in
his
own
Way
,
and
according
to
the
Nature
of
his
Employment
;
and
that
for
her
part
she
thought
five
or
six
Crowns
a
day
but
a
moderate
Recompence
for
the
Pains
she
took
in
deceiving
those
that
were
willing
to
be
deceiv'd
;
adding
however
that
she
was
glad
she
had
found
a
Man
of
Sense
,
that
knew
the
Infirmities
of
Humane
Nature
,
and
wou'd
laugh
with
her
at
the
Follies
of
Mankind
,
and
concluded
with
giving
him
an
Assignation
at
an
Inn
,
where
she
promis'd
to
meet
him
that
Evening
.
Her
agreeable
Humour
furnish'd
us
with
Matter
of
Discourse
for
above
an
Hour
;
but
this
was
the
End
of
the
Adventure
,
for
the
Officer
did
not
think
fit
to
drive
the
Jest
further
.
Tho'
the
Summer
is
scarce
begun
,
the
Heat
is
already
so
violent
,
that
every
one
endeavours
to
make
it
less
insupportable
by
the
Thinness
and
Lightness
of
his
Clothes
.
Now
I
speak
of
Habits
,
I
wish
you
cou'd
see
that
which
is
us'd
by
the
Girls
that
visit
the
Fair
every
Day
to
look
out
for
a
Customer
.
For
every
Mother
that
is
willing
to
be
rid
of
her
Daughter
,
carries
her
thither
every
Day
as
to
a
Market
,
with
all
the
alluring
Ornaments
of
an
advantageous
Dress
.
They
have
large
and
very
fine
Top-knots
;
their
Neck
and
Breasts
are
bare
;
and
their
Habit
consists
chiefly
of
a
little
Cloak
or
Mantle
of
white
Muslin
,
adorn'd
with
red
Ribbons
,
a
single
Petticoat
of
the
same
Cloth
,
a
neat
Pair
of
Shooes
and
Silk-Stockins
,
exactly
fitted
to
their
Legs
.
There
is
nothing
more
proper
to
inspire
Love
than
the
sight
of
those
young
Creatures
,
who
for
the
most
part
are
charming
Beauties
;
nor
is
a
Man
forc'd
to
purchase
his
Happiness
at
the
Rate
of
a
tedious
Courtship
;
for
assoon
as
he
feels
Nature
begin
to
work
,
he
may
immediately
address
himself
to
the
Mother
,
who
is
always
ready
to
make
the
Bargain
.
But
tho'
it
will
not
cost
you
a
Sigh
to
gain
your
Mistress's
Heart
,
you
must
pay
dear
for
the
Enjoymnent
of
her
Person
:
for
you
cannot
purchase
a
handsome
Maiden-Girl
under
150
Crowns
in
hand
,
and
as
much
every
Year
for
Entertainment
.
For
200
you
may
have
the
Choice
of
the
Market
,
where
you
may
find
some
that
look
like
little
Angels
.
Nor
are
you
oblig'd
to
buy
a
Pig
in
a
Poke
;
for
you
may
view
and
handle
her
as
much
as
you
will
,
and
examine
your
Commodity
both
with
your
Eyes
and
Hands
before
you
agree
upon
the
Price
.
As
for
the
Maiden-head
,
if
the
Mother
promise
to
warrant
it
,
you
may
depend
upon
her
word
:
for
these
Matrons
are
too
conscientious
to
impose
second-hand
Goods
upon
a
Customer
;
and
besides
they
dare
not
venture
upon
a
Cheat
which
they
believe
may
be
so
easily
discover'd
.
For
't
is
as
impossible
to
root
this
Opinion
out
of
the
Minds
of
the
Italians
,
as
of
the
Oriental
Nations
;
and
whether
it
be
true
or
false
,
't
is
attended
with
this
advantageous
Consequence
,
that
it
makes
the
young
Women
very
careful
of
preserving
their
Treasure
,
since
they
believe
it
impossible
to
conceal
the
Loss
of
it
;
at
least
it
has
this
Effect
on
those
who
intend
to
marry
.
But
they
who
pretend
only
to
be
kept
are
not
so
nice
,
for
tho'
they
take
care
to
preserve
their
Maiden-head
,
they
never
scruple
to
allow
a
Man
all
the
Liberties
that
can
be
us'd
without
deflowring
'em
.
I
know
a
Woman
that
has
three
Daughters
;
the
two
Eldest
are
public
Courtezans
,
but
the
Third
,
who
is
very
pretty
,
is
still
[
](A36827-e59040-b)*
*
A
Maid
.
una
Putta
,
una
Vergine
,
tho'
she
has
lain
perhaps
with
a
Hundred
Men.
Yet
she
is
really
a
Maid
,
and
wou'd
not
sell
her
Maiden-head
a
Farthing
under
Two
hundred
Crowns
.
I
cannot
leave
this
Subject
without
taking
Notice
of
the
extravagant
Opinion
of
the
Italians
,
concerning
one
of
the
Properties
of
a
Beautiful
Woman
.
Instead
of
little
,
hard
,
and
well-separated
Breasts
,
they
love
to
have
'em
large
and
fleshy
;
so
that
when
they
put
their
Hand
into
the
Bosom
of
a
Maid
whom
they
intend
to
purchase
,
if
she
be
not
so
well
provided
as
they
commonly
desire
,
she
is
forc'd
to
make
some
pretty
Excuse
,
or
to
tell
'em
laughing
,
That
she
has
lent
her
Bubbies
to
her
little
Sister
,
or
has
plaid
'em
away
at
Bassette
.
And
even
when
a
Frenchman
meets
with
such
Girls
,
and
tells
'em
that
he
is
no
Admirer
of
fleshy
Breasts
,
they
usually
answer
,
Ay
,
Sir
,
you
are
pleas'd
to
say
so
;
but
if
they
were
larger
you
wou'd
like
'em
better
.
You
will
be
apt
to
look
upon
this
Way
of
buying
Girls
as
very
odd
and
extravagant
;
but
I
'm
confident
you
will
be
no
less
surpriz'd
at
the
Relation
of
an
Adventure
that
happen'd
to
one
of
my
Friends
,
who
is
a
French
Officer
lately
return'd
from
the
Venetian
Army
.
I
remember
I
promis'd
you
the
Story
,
and
I
'm
resolv'd
to
keep
my
Word
,
tho'
I
must
run
the
Hazard
of
giving
you
an
ill
Opinion
of
my
Friend's
Chastity
.
During
our
Confinement
in
the
Lazaretto
,
we
had
no
other
Recreation
,
but
what
we
found
in
conversing
with
the
Prior
,
who
is
a
very
accomplish'd
Person
:
You
may
easily
divine
the
usual
Subject
of
our
Discourse
.
We
hardly
talk'd
of
any
thing
but
the
Venetian
Ladies
,
of
whose
Beauty
and
Gracefulness
he
gave
us
so
lively
a
Description
,
that
his
feeling
Expressions
made
a
very
strong
Impression
on
the
Officer's
Mind
.
Then
he
proceeded
to
tell
us
,
that
we
might
easily
satisfie
our
Inclinations
to
Love
in
this
great
City
,
without
exposing
our selves
to
the
Censures
of
a
Critical
and
Ill-natur'd
World
.
In
short
,
my
Friend
was
so
charm'd
with
his
agreeable
Conversation
,
and
so
well
pleas'd
with
the
Hope
he
gave
him
,
that
he
cou'd
not
forbear
protesting
and
repeating
his
Protestations
more
than
once
,
that
he
wou'd
not
leave
the
City
without
tasting
the
Dear
Delight
.
His
Guardian
,
who
never
left
him
,
and
had
often
heard
us
talk
on
that
Subject
,
concluded
that
he
had
met
with
a
Man
fit
for
his
Purpose
,
that
is
,
one
who
wou'd
spare
no
Cost
to
indulge
his
Inclination
to
Pleasure
.
Resolving
then
to
make
the
best
Advantage
of
so
promising
an
Opportunity
,
he
took
occasion
to
talk
with
him
in
private
two
days
before
our
Departure
,
and
told
him
with
a
great
deal
of
Confidence
,
that
perceiving
him
to
be
a
great
Admirer
of
handsome
Women
;
and
knowing
that
he
wou'd
probably
meet
with
some
in
that
great
City
whither
he
was
going
,
he
thought
himself
oblig'd
to
admonish
him
of
the
dangerous
consequences
that
frequently
attended
the
Rashness
of
an
unexperienc'd
Adventurer
upon
an
unknown
Coast
;
since
those
who
seem
to
be
very
sound
and
beautiful
,
are
oftentimes
mere
lewd
and
rotten
Strumpets
.
But
,
added
he
,
if
you
will
trust
my
Honesty
,
and
lodge
at
my
House
,
which
is
both
very
neat
and
civil
,
I
have
an
only
Daughter
,
who
has
as
much
Beauty
as
any
Lady
in
Venice
;
her
I
'll
bestow
upon
you
,
and
warrant
her
as
sound
and
clean
as
a
Pearl
,
as
I
hope
in
the
most
holy
Madona
.
Then
the
Officer
ask'd
him
whether
she
was
a
Maid
,
and
he
very
ingenuously
acknowledg'd
that
she
was
not
,
and
that
she
was
kept
by
a
Venetian
Nobleman
,
who
allow'd
her
a
[
](A36827-e59220-b)*
*
200
Crowns
.
hundred
Sequins
a
Year
:
but
,
continu'd
he
,
tho'
she
has
hitherto
observ'd
an
inviolable
Fidelity
to
her
Keeper
,
I
have
so
strong
an
Inclination
to
make
you
my
Friend
,
that
I
'm
resolv'd
to
give
her
to
you
,
and
I
'm
confident
you
'll
be
satisfy'd
with
her
Person
when
you
see
her
.
My
Friend
considering
that
at
Venice
a
Man
that
loves
to
keep
himself
clean
and
neat
,
must
not
take
a
Lodging
at
a
Public
House
of
Entertainment
,
and
not
knowing
where
to
find
a
convenient
Lodging
,
accepted
his
Guardian
's
Offer
,
and
went
to
his
House
,
where
he
took
a
very
neat
Room
,
and
agreed
both
for
Diet
and
Lodging
at
a
very
reasonable
Rate
.
The
next
Morning
his
Landlord
carry'd
him
to
his
Daughter
,
who
had
a
very
magnificent
Apartment
,
consisting
of
three
fine
Chambers
on
a
Floor
,
adorn'd
with
large
Looking-Glasses
,
Cupboard
and
Scrutores
of
China
,
with
two
Maids
in
a
very
handsome
Garb
to
attend
her
.
My
Friend
was
doubtless
extremely
well
satisfy'd
with
every
thing
he
saw
,
and
especially
with
the
lovely
Donna
,
who
was
one
of
the
most
charming
Beauties
in
the
World
:
But
his
Satisfaction
lasted
not
long
,
for
when
he
came
to
talk
of
the
Price
,
she
ask'd
four
times
as
much
as
he
was
able
or
willing
to
give
her
;
so
that
after
two
hours
Wrangling
,
he
was
forc'd
to
leave
her
without
concluding
the
Bargain
.
Yet
he
continues
still
to
lodge
at
her
Father's
House
,
who
professes
as
much
Friendship
to
him
as
ever
.
He
told
me
that
he
observ'd
one
Piece
of
Furniture
in
the
Young
Lady's
Chamber
that
was
very
suitable
to
one
of
her
Profession
.
'T
was
a
very
large
Couch
cover'd
with
a
Quilt
of
black
Sattin
,
and
directly
over
it
there
hung
at
the
Cieling
one
of
those
Fans
which
I
had
occasion
to
mention
in
one
of
my
former
Letters
.
She
confess'd
that
this
was
her
Lover's
Contrivance
,
to
qualifie
the
extreme
Heat
of
the
Weather
,
which
is
never
more
insupportable
than
when
one
is
already
sufficiently
heated
with
the
eager
Recreations
of
Love
.
And
she
assur'd
him
that
the
all
Nobles
have
such
Fans
in
their
Houses
.
Of
all
the
Customs
that
are
peculiar
to
the
Italians
,
I
know
none
that
seems
odder
and
more
incommodious
than
that
of
lying
stark-naked
in
their
Beds
,
which
is
generally
observ'd
by
Men
,
Women
,
Boys
,
and
Girls
;
and
notwithstanding
the
Indecency
of
such
a
Custom
,
the
most
bashful
Virgin
never
scruples
to
strip
her self
to
a
state
of
pure
Nature
on
her
Wedding
Night
,
and
to
become
an
Eve
to
her
new
Adam
.
'T
is
true
,
most
Persons
of
Quality
lie
as
we
do
,
tho'
there
are
several
even
of
that
Rank
,
who
follow
the
common
Fashion
.
The
Curtezans
enjoy
here
no
less
Liberty
than
at
Rome
,
and
are
divided
into
two
distinct
Orders
.
The
first
consists
of
such
as
are
kept
by
particular
Persons
,
such
as
the
Guardian
's
Daughter
;
and
these
are
so
far
from
being
imputed
infamous
or
contemptible
,
that
they
are
envy'd
by
their
Companions
,
and
are
esteem'd
(
as
they
say
themselves
)
if
not
Donne
Honorate
,
at
least
Donne
de
proposito
.
And
besides
,
they
have
this
Advantage
,
that
they
can
easily
find
a
Husband
after
they
have
gain'd
Seven
or
Eight
hundred
Ducats
;
for
most
Tradesmen
are
extremely
fond
of
such
considerable
Fortunes
.
The
other
sort
of
Curtezans
are
such
as
prostitute
themselves
to
all
Comers
,
and
expose
their
Bodies
indifferently
to
all
sorts
of
Persons
.
And
even
these
,
tho'
they
must
for
ever
despair
of
retrieving
their
Honour
by
Matrimony
,
disown
the
Name
of
Putane
,
and
call
themselves
Donne
d'amore
.
But
notwithstanding
the
extraordinary
Kindness
and
Beauty
of
the
Women
,
the
Venetians
are
generally
so
brutish
,
that
they
wou'd
rather
chuse
a
Boy
,
tho'
as
ugly
as
an
Ape
,
than
the
most
Amiable
Girl
in
the
World
.
This
is
the
predominant
Vice
of
the
Nation
,
with
which
they
are
so
miserably
intoxicated
,
that
they
spare
no
Pains
or
Cost
to
satisfie
their
beastly
Passions
:
And
even
some
of
'em
are
such
Prodigies
of
Infamy
,
and
have
so
entirely
lost
all
sense
of
Humanity
,
that
they
turn
S●ccubus's
to
Porters
and
Gondoliers
,
whom
they
hire
to
act
that
Filthiness
upon
their
polluted
Bodies
.
All
their
Conversations
are
larded
with
those
detestable
Impurities
;
and
as
in
France
't
is
the
usual
Custom
of
young
Persons
to
divert
themselves
with
talking
of
their
Intrigues
with
a
lovely
Mistress
,
their
Discourses
in
this
Place
run
perpetually
on
their
Masculine
Amours
.
Nor
are
the
Turks
,
themselves
more
addicted
to
this
unnatural
Abomination
than
the
Italians
seem
to
be
.
The
Monks
,
especially
,
are
infamous
for
Sodomy
as
well
as
Whoredom
;
and
perhaps
not
without
reason
,
for
tho'
I
am
not
so
particularly
acquainted
with
their
manner
of
Living
,
as
to
give
you
an
exact
Account
of
their
Customs
and
Practice
,
I
can
assure
you
(
and
one
sight
of
their
Convents
wou'd
convince
you
)
that
they
assume
a
great
deal
more
Liberty
than
their
Brethren
in
France
.
About
some
Weeks
ago
I
visited
the
Convent
of
S.
Joanni
Paolo
,
to
see
the
fine
Pictures
with
which
't
is
adorn'd
,
especially
that
of
S.
Peter
Martyr
,
by
Titian
,
which
is
esteem'd
one
of
the
most
finish'd
Pieces
in
the
World
;
and
that
of
the
Last
Supper
,
at
the
bottom
of
the
Refectory
.
After
I
had
satisfy'd
my
Curiosity
with
a
View
of
these
admirable
Pictures
,
they
show'd
me
the
Apartment
of
one
of
the
Fathers
,
which
certainly
merits
the
particular
Observation
of
every
curious
Traveller
;
for
I
must
confess
I
shou'd
have
rather
fansy'd
it
to
be
the
Residence
of
a
Cardinal
than
the
Habitation
of
a
solitary
Friar
.
It
consists
of
three
small
Pavilions
,
rank'd
in
a
streight
Line
,
each
of
which
contains
two
Chambers
and
a
Hall
.
They
are
separated
by
two
Gardens
,
planted
with
Orange-Trees
,
and
divided
into
several
Borders
or
Beds
of
Flowers
,
adorn'd
with
Busts
and
Statues
.
'T
is
true
,
there
is
no
Water
;
but
that
defect
is
supply'd
by
a
very
fine
Perspective
,
representing
a
Fountain
at
the
end
of
a
long
Walk
,
border'd
with
Trees
.
And
this
artificial
Fountain
is
discover'd
from
the
first
Pavilion
thro'
the
second
,
which
is
pierc'd
and
left
open
for
that
Purpose
.
The
Beauty
of
the
Chambers
is
sutable
to
that
of
the
Garden
;
and
to
conclude
,
there
are
few
Places
in
the
World
less
fit
to
inspire
a
Man
with
Thoughts
of
Mortification
and
Repentance
.
I
must
not
finish
my
Letter
without
giving
you
some
Account
of
the
Opera's
and
Comedies
,
which
may
be
reckon'd
one
of
the
principal
Diversions
of
the
Carnaval
.
All
the
Beauty
of
the
Opera's
consists
in
Vocal
Music
and
Machines
;
for
there
is
nothing
in
the
Habits
,
Dancing
,
and
even
in
the
Plays
themselves
,
that
merits
a
particular
Description
.
And
,
generally
speaking
,
they
are
much
Inferior
to
those
that
are
represented
at
Paris
;
for
tho'
the
French
must
acknowledge
themselves
indebted
to
the
Venetians
for
their
Opera's
,
't
is
certain
that
in
this
,
as
well
as
in
several
other
Cases
,
they
have
surpass'd
their
Masters
.
The
Venetian
Music
does
not
please
all
sorts
of
Ears
;
some
dislike
the
Affectation
of
their
excessive
Quavering
,
which
made
one
say
,
That
they
seem'd
to
contend
with
Nightingales
,
who
shou'd
be
most
admir'd
for
the
Volubility
of
their
Throats
.
But
I
must
confess
I
'm
of
another
Opinion
,
and
I
'm
so
charm'd
by
the
melodious
Accents
of
a
fine
Italian
Voice
,
that
I
can
hardly
forbear
crying
out
with
the
Venetians
,
I
'm
lost
,
I
faint
,
I
die
.
'T
is
true
,
those
agreeable
Transports
I
usually
feel
on
such
Occasions
,
are
purely
occasion'd
by
the
Music
,
and
by
the
Beauty
of
the
Voice
,
without
any
regard
to
the
Words
,
which
are
so
far
from
contributing
to
the
Delight
of
the
Hearer
,
that
he
ought
not
to
give
the
least
attention
to
'em
;
since
the
Italian
way
of
singing
is
extremely
unsuitable
to
tragical
Subjects
:
For
what
Impression
wou'd
it
make
upon
your
Mind
to
hear
an
Orlando
Furioso
,
or
a
despairing
Atis
,
warble
out
the
terrible
Passions
with
which
they
are
agitated
,
in
a
perpetual
Quavering
for
a
Quarter
of
an
Hour
together
?
Wou'd
you
not
imagine
that
those
Actors
design'd
to
ridicule
the
passionate
Lovers
whom
they
pretend
to
represent
?
This
puts
me
in
mind
of
the
Air
with
which
Harlequin
us'd
to
sing
on
the
Theatre
of
Burgundy
,
Ha!
tu
vas
trahir
malheureuse
,
&c.
This
,
Sir
,
is
the
main
Advantage
that
recommends
the
French
Way
of
Singing
beyond
the
Italian
;
for
the
Music
is
made
purposely
for
the
Words
,
and
so
admirably
well
fitted
to
'em
in
every
respect
,
that
the
Singing
is
more
expressive
,
and
infinitely
more
touching
than
the
Words
,
especially
when
there
is
Occasion
to
represent
a
Person
transported
with
Sorrow
,
Despair
,
or
Fury
.
But
abstracting
from
this
Consideration
,
I
'm
still
of
the
Opinion
,
that
the
Italian
Music
,
singly
consider'd
,
is
finer
than
ours
,
and
that
its
Charms
are
extremely
improv'd
by
a
sweet
and
tuneful
Voice
,
which
is
no
Rarity
in
this
Place
.
There
are
also
many
different
Opinions
concerning
the
Venetian
Comedies
;
for
I
have
heard
several
Men
of
Sense
not
only
despise
'em
as
Trifles
,
but
absolutely
condemn
'em
,
as
only
fit
to
amuse
the
Eyes
and
Ears
of
Footmen
and
Porters
.
Others
,
on
the
contrary
,
are
so
much
in
love
with
this
Diversion
,
that
they
wou'd
rather
chuse
to
deprive
themselves
of
Meat
and
Drink
,
than
to
lose
their
Share
in
so
agreeable
a
Pleasure
.
For
my
part
,
I
think
these
Opinions
are
equally
guilty
of
an
Excess
,
and
I
see
no
reason
that
shou'd
oblige
us
to
run
to
either
of
these
opposite
Extremities
.
If
every
thing
that
is
not
properly
instructive
,
and
does
not
directly
tend
to
the
Advancement
of
Vertue
must
be
absolutely
rejected
;
I
confess
indeed
,
that
the
Italian
Comedies
ought
to
be
banish'd
out
of
the
Republick
;
but
by
the
same
Principle
Masks
,
Balls
,
Turnaments
,
and
all
sorts
of
Games
must
be
condemn'd
,
and
the
most
innocent
Pleasures
must
be
reputed
criminal
.
But
since
my
Conscience
is
not
so
nice
,
I
must
own
my self
so
much
a
Friend
to
the
Venetian
Comedies
,
that
I
can
easily
bear
with
all
their
Defects
.
'T
is
true
,
they
can
neither
make
us
wiser
nor
better
;
but
that
Fault
,
if
it
be
one
,
is
sufficiently
atton'd
for
by
the
Pleasure
they
give
us
.
And
I
have
often
observ'd
,
that
those
morose
Criticks
who
talk
of
nothing
but
Edification
,
are
the
first
who
burst
forth
into
Laughter
,
and
express
their
Satisfaction
by
clapping
their
Hands
.
Yet
there
are
certain
Indecencies
which
I
cou'd
wish
the
Italian
Poets
wou'd
avoid
;
and
it
were
to
be
desir'd
,
that
they
had
more
Regard
to
the
Respect
that
is
due
to
the
Modesty
of
Ladies
,
and
to
the
Rules
of
Civility
that
ought
to
be
observ'd
between
Man
and
Man
.
But
after
all
,
I
have
a
much
better
Opinion
of
the
French
than
of
the
Italian
Theatre
:
For
I
had
rather
learn
to
know
my self
in
the
Characters
of
Moliere
,
than
to
be
an
useless
Spectator
of
the
Postures
of
Harlequin
,
or
of
the
Dreams
of
Dr.
Balouarde
;
tho'
if
I
had
a
convenient
Opportunity
,
and
knew
not
how
to
employ
my
Time
better
,
I
shou'd
never
scruple
to
laugh
an
Hour
or
two
at
their
diverting
Fooleries
.
I
had
almost
forgotten
to
acquaint
you
with
a
pleasant
Custom
which
is
usually
observ'd
in
this
Place
at
the
hearing
of
Opera's
.
The
Female
Musicians
are
always
applauded
at
the
End
of
their
Songs
;
but
the
Hearers
make
use
of
different
ways
to
express
their
Satisfaction
.
If
they
only
say
Cara
,
Cara
,
't
is
a
sign
they
are
but
indifferently
pleas'd
;
but
when
they
are
touch'd
to
the
quick
,
they
fill
the
whole
Theatre
with
repeated
Acclamations
,
crying
as
loud
as
they
can
,
Mi
Moro
,
Mi
Buto
;
and
not
unfrequently
make
use
of
such
immodest
and
obscene
Expressions
,
that
I
dare
not
so
much
as
repeat
'em
.
In
Obedience
to
your
Desire
,
I
have
made
it
my
Bus'ness
to
enquire
into
the
Birth
and
Original
of
the
late
Pope
Alexander
VIII
.
You
are
misinform'd
by
those
who
assure
you
that
he
was
descended
from
a
Noble
Family
:
For
John
Ottoboni
,
his
Great-Grand-Father
,
was
a
Merchant
,
and
was
not
much
taken
Notice
of
at
first
,
tho'
he
afterwards
gain'd
a
considerable
Estate
,
which
recommended
both
him
and
his
Children
to
the
Consideration
of
the
Publick
.
His
Eldest
Son
,
John
Francis
,
was
advanc'd
to
the
Dignity
of
Great
Chancellor
,
the
highest
Office
to
which
a
Citizen
can
pretend
;
for
those
who
are
rais'd
to
that
Post
are
honour'd
with
the
Title
of
Excellency
,
and
wear
a
Red
Gown
.
His
Son
Leonard
,
who
had
already
serv'd
the
Republic
as
Secretary
to
the
Spanish
Embassy
,
and
afterwards
as
Agent
in
that
Country
,
was
advanc'd
to
the
same
Office
in
the
Year
1639.
and
continu'd
in
that
Post
till
his
Death
.
He
left
two
Sons
,
Francis
,
and
Peter
who
was
afterwards
made
Pope
:
Francis
marry'd
,
and
left
a
Son
call'd
Anthony
,
who
is
still
alive
;
but
Peter
,
who
had
not
yet
taken
a
Wife
,
endeavour'd
to
procure
a
certain
Office
,
which
,
notwithstanding
all
his
earnest
Solicitations
,
was
bestow'd
on
another
Citizen
,
whose
Family
had
never
been
intrusted
with
the
Management
of
any
Public
Affairs
:
And
he
was
so
nettl'd
at
such
an
unexpected
Disappointment
,
that
for
mere
Vexation
he
resolv'd
to
embrace
an
Ecclesiastical
Life
.
Two
or
Three
Years
after
,
the
Bishop
of
Padua
gave
him
a
Place
in
his
Chapter
,
where
he
continu'd
for
some
time
;
but
being
naturally
of
an
impatient
and
ambitious
Temper
,
he
soon
grew
weary
of
that
Post
:
And
I
'm
inform'd
that
he
us'd
frequently
to
tell
his
Friends
that
something
whisper'd
perpetually
in
his
Ears
,
and
bid
him
go
to
Rome
.
These
Suggestions
flatter'd
his
Ambition
,
and
made
him
so
uneasie
at
Padua
,
that
he
left
his
Place
,
and
went
to
that
Great
Ecclesiastical
Court
,
where
by
his
Intrigues
,
Complaisance
,
and
Dissimulation
,
of
which
he
was
an
Absolute
Master
,
he
acquir'd
several
powerful
Patrons
,
and
insinuated
himself
so
dexterously
into
the
Favour
of
the
rest
,
that
in
1652
,
he
obtain'd
a
Cardinal's
Cap
of
Pope
Innocent
X.
and
was
afterwards
made
Bishop
of
Brescia
in
the
State
of
Venice
.
But
his
Ambition
was
not
satisfy'd
by
so
considerable
a
Preferment
;
for
he
still
continu'd
to
manage
his
Game
with
so
much
Dexterity
and
Success
,
that
at
last
he
was
advanc'd
to
the
Papal
Throne
by
the
French
Faction
,
and
by
the
Interest
and
Solicitation
of
Cardinal
de
Bouillon
,
who
to
regain
his
Master's
Favour
,
left
no
Means
unessay'd
to
raise
this
Prelate
to
the
Apostolic
See
.
'T
was
on
the
6
th
of
October
,
1689
,
that
the
Supreme
Dignity
was
conferr'd
upon
him
;
and
his
Advancement
occasion'd
a
general
Satisfaction
.
Rome
thought
she
had
now
a
Bishop
,
who
wou'd
aim
at
nothing
so
much
as
the
Exaltation
of
the
Church
and
the
Holy
See
:
France
concluded
that
she
had
at
last
obtain'd
a
Pope
who
was
absolutely
devoted
to
her
Interest
:
The
Empire
and
Spain
hop'd
that
he
wou'd
promote
the
Public
Good
of
Christendom
:
And
Venice
was
over-joy'd
to
see
one
of
her
Citizens
in
a
Condition
to
raise
the
Glory
of
his
Country
.
In
the
last
of
these
Places
,
especially
,
all
possible
Care
was
taken
to
express
the
publick
Satisfaction
with
all
the
Marks
of
Splendor
and
Magnificence
:
Anthony
the
Pope's
Nephew
was
honour'd
with
the
Title
of
a
Nobleman
,
and
at
the
same
time
was
made
Knight
of
the
Golden
Star
,
and
Procurator
of
S.
Mark
by
Merit
.
He
sent
his
two
Sons
Peter
and
Mark
to
Rome
,
where
the
latter
was
immediately
preferr'd
to
an
advantageous
Match
;
and
the
former
was
made
Cardinal
Patron
.
Dignities
and
Riches
were
heap'd
without
measure
upon
all
the
rest
of
the
Pope's
Relations
,
who
seem'd
,
like
so
many
Mushrooms
,
to
spring
up
in
a
Night
.
Their
sudden
Advancement
gave
Pasquin
occasion
to
say
,
That
his
Holiness
had
signaliz'd
his
Accession
to
the
Pontifical
Throne
by
a
Miracle
:
And
Marforio
demanding
what
it
was
,
he
reply'd
,
That
the
Pope
had
restor'd
to
Life
one
that
was
Dead
;
meaning
the
Nepotism
,
which
seem'd
to
have
been
utterly
extinguish'd
by
Innocent
XI
.
And
indeed
never
Pope
made
so
good
Use
of
his
Time
as
this
Alexander
:
But
since
I
have
already
given
you
an
Account
of
his
Character
and
Actions
,
I
shall
only
add
,
that
he
went
out
of
this
World
loaded
with
Curses
,
that
his
Memory
is
odious
to
all
Mankind
,
and
that
never
any
Man's
Death
was
less
lamented
than
his
.
Rome
detests
him
by
reason
of
his
Luxury
,
and
because
he
establish'd
the
Nepotism
:
The
Empire
and
Spain
hate
him
as
one
that
was
their
declar'd
Enemy
:
France
is
incens'd
against
him
because
of
the
terrible
Blow
he
gave
her
towards
the
end
of
his
Pontificate
:
And
Venice
abhors
the
Memory
of
a
Citizen
,
who
instead
of
proving
a
Benefactor
to
his
Country
,
seem'd
on
all
Occasions
to
be
its
mortal
Enemy
.
At
Rome
they
began
to
express
their
Hatred
before
he
expir'd
;
for
in
the
Night
in
which
he
dy'd
there
was
a
Paper
affix'd
to
the
Gate
of
the
Vatican
,
in
which
he
was
represented
in
the
Posture
of
〈◊〉
that
is
going
to
take
Horse
,
with
these
Words
written
underneath
,
If
any
Man
wou'd
send
a
Letter
to
the
Devil
,
here
is
a
Post
just
ready
to
depart
.
After
his
Death
,
Prince
Anthony
his
Nephew
,
endeavouring
by
his
Intrigues
to
exclude
Cardinal
Barberino
,
and
to
promote
the
Faction
of
the
Pignatelli
,
the
Venetians
depriv'd
him
of
the
Procuratorship
,
and
at
the
same
time
remov'd
him
from
the
Management
of
Publick
Affairs
,
and
even
prohibited
him
to
appear
in
the
Council
;
so
that
at
present
instead
of
a
Procurator's
Vest
,
he
wears
only
a
Citizen's
short
Cloak
.
Yet
he
was
not
degraded
,
but
only
suspended
from
the
Exercise
of
his
Offices
.
I
must
not
leave
Venice
without
acquainting
you
with
the
ridiculous
Opinion
the
Italians
have
of
the
French
Customs
:
They
imagine
that
a
Man
may
Kiss
and
Handle
a
Young
Woman
as
roughly
and
indecently
as
he
pleases
before
her
Father
and
Mother
,
and
that
one
may
take
the
same
Liberty
with
a
Wife
in
the
Presence
of
her
Husband
;
and
from
thence
they
infer
,
that
they
are
guilty
of
more
Criminal
Familiarities
in
private
.
You
see
what
an
injurious
Opinion
they
have
of
our
Nation
,
and
especially
of
the
Chastity
of
our
Ladies
;
and
yet
this
extravagant
Conceit
is
only
grounded
on
the
Civility
of
our
Countrymen
,
who
permit
a
Friend
or
Relation
to
Salute
a
Woman
with
a
Kiss
after
a
long
Absence
;
and
are
not
so
horn-mad
as
to
enter
an
Action
against
a
Man
for
every
Kiss
he
steals
from
a
Woman
.
Thus
we
see
how
fatally
Men
are
deluded
by
that
unconquerable
Inclination
they
have
to
magnifie
every
thing
.
As
soon
as
they
hear
of
any
thing
that
is
unusual
,
they
instantly
fansie
it
to
be
a
Prodigy
,
and
conclude
that
't
is
either
against
the
ordinary
Course
of
Nature
,
or
contrary
to
common
Sense
.
I
have
had
occasion
to
discourse
with
several
Persons
that
are
no
Italians
,
who
assure
me
that
in
England
a
Man
may
freely
Kiss
the
first
handsome
Woman
he
meets
in
the
Street
,
and
even
that
all
Women
,
not
excepting
the
chief
Ladies
of
the
Court
,
are
oblig'd
to
allow
such
Liberties
.
But
tho'
I
never
was
in
that
Country
,
I
'm
so
far
from
believing
the
Story
,
that
I
'm
confident
,
and
dare
venture
to
affirm
,
that
't
is
absolutely
false
.
I
shall
conclude
my
Letter
with
telling
you
that
I
have
seen
Padua
,
which
is
a
very
large
Town
,
but
so
dispeopl'd
,
that
one
half
of
the
Houses
are
not
inhabited
;
and
that
I
have
bought
a
Horse
to
carry
me
to
Holland
;
for
I
cou'd
not
endure
to
be
so
long
shut
up
in
a
Coach
.
I
have
already
sent
my
Horse
to
Mestre
,
a
little
Harbour
about
five
Miles
from
this
City
,
in
the
Road
to
Ausburg
,
and
am
putting
all
things
in
a
readiness
for
my
Departure
.
And
therefore
to
finish
the
Description
of
Venice
,
which
some
call
the
Rich
,
others
the
Fair
,
and
I
the
Licentious
,
I
shall
only
tell
you
,
that
I
'm
extremely
pleas'd
with
three
things
in
it
,
which
I
despair
of
finding
in
any
other
Place
:
First
,
the
Festival
Solemnities
,
which
are
always
accompany'd
with
Shows
:
Secondly
,
the
obliging
Sweetness
and
Beauty
of
the
Women
:
And
in
the
last
Place
,
the
Neatness
of
the
Houses
within
.
I
have
often
heard
Holland
commended
for
the
extraordinary
Neatness
of
its
Houses
,
but
I
'm
persuaded
that
even
in
this
respect
it
does
not
exceed
Venice
:
For
the
very
Floors
are
cover'd
with
a
certain
red
Cen●●t
,
as
●ard
as
a
〈◊〉
,
and
as
smooth
and
clear
as
a
Looking-Glass
:
And
all
the
Furniture
of
the
House
is
kept
in
the
best
Order
,
and
with
the
same
Care
and
Exactness
.
Every
Cobler
in
the
City
takes
care
to
furnish
his
Apartment
with
Hangings
of
gilt
Leather
,
a
large
Looking-Glass
,
and
some
pretty
Pictures
;
and
the
Magnificence
of
the
Houses
is
always
sutable
to
the
Riches
of
the
Inhabitants
.
I
am
,
SIR
,
Your
&c.
Venice
,
May
1692.
The
END
.