CHAP. I. Captain Coxon , Sawkins , Sharp , and others , set forth in a Fleet towards the Province of Darien , upon the Continent of America . Their designs to pillage and plunder in those parts . Number of their Ships , and strength of their Forces by Sea and Land .

AT a place called Boca del Toro , The place where they met together . was the general Rendezvouz of the Fleet , which lately had taken and sackt Puerto Velo the second time ; that rich place having been plundered once before , under the Conduct of Sir Henry Morgan , as is related in the History of the Bucaniers . At this place also were two other Vessels ; the one belonging unto Captain Peter Harris , and the other unto Captain Richard Sawkins ; both Englishmen and Privateers . Here therefore a report was made unto the Fleet , of a Peace concluded between the Spaniards and the Indians of the Land of Darien , who for the most part wage incessant Wars against one another . Also , that since the conclusion of the said Peace , they had been already tryed , and found very faithful unto Captain Bournano , a French Commander , in an attempt on a certain place called Chepo , nigh the South Sea . Further , that the Indians had promised to conduct him unto a great and very rich place , named Tocamora : upon which he had likewise promised them to return in three Months time with more Ships and Men. Hereupon we all agreed to go visit the said place , and thus dispersed our selves into several Coves , They 〈◊〉 for Tocamora . ( by the Spaniards called Cúèvas , or hollow creeks under the Coasts ) there to careen and fit our Vessels for that purpose . In this place Boca del Toro , we found plenty of fat Tortoises ; the pleasantest meat in the world . When we had refitted our Vessels , we met at an Island , called by us , the Water-key ; and this was then our strength , as followeth .

Tuns . Guns . Men. Captain Coxon in a Ship of 80 8 97 Captain Harris in another of 150 25 107 Captain Bournáno 90 6 86 Captain Sawkins 16 1 35 Captain Sharp 25 2 40 Captain Cook 35 00 43 Captain Alleston 18 00 24 Captain Row 20 00 25 Captain Macket 14 00 20

●hey set sail and 〈◊〉 at the Zamblas . We sailed from thence March the 23. 1679. and in our way touched at the Islands called Zamblas . These are certain Islands reaching eight Leagues in extent , and lying fourteen Leagues Westward of the River of Darien . Being here at an Anchor , many of the Indians , both men and women , came to see us . Some brought Plantans , others other Fruits , and Venison , to exchange with us for Beads , Needles , Knives , or any trifling bauble whereof they stand in need . But what they most chiefly covet are Axes and Hatchets to sell Timber withal . The men here go naked , Habit of the Indians of those Isles . as having only a sharp and hollow tip , made either of Gold , Silver , or Bark , into which they thrust their Privy Members ; the which tip they fasten with a string about their middle . They wear as an ornament in their Noses , a golden or silver Plate , in shape like unto a Half Moon ; which when they drink , they hold up with one hand , mean while they lift the cup with the other . They paint themselves sometimes with streaks of black ; as the women do in like manner , with red . These have in their Noses a pretty thick ring of Gold or Silver ; and for cloathing , they cover themselves with a Blanket . They are generally well featured women : among whom I saw several fairer than the fairest of Europe , with Hair like unto the finest flax . Of these it is reported , they can see far better in the dark , than in the light .

These Indians misliked our design for Tocamora , They change their design of Tocamora for another . and disswaded us from it , asserting it would prove too tedious a march , and the way so mountainous , and uninhabited , that it would be extream difficult to get Provisions for our men . Withal , they proffered to guide us undiscryed , within few Leagues of the City of Panama , in case we were pleased to go thither ; where we could not choose but know our selves , we should not fail of making a good Voyage . Upon these , and other reasons which they gave us , we concluded to desist from the Journey of Tocamora , and to proceed to Panama . Having taken up these Resolutions , Captain Bournano and Captain Row's Vessels separated from us , as being all French , and not willing to go to Panama , they declaring themselves generally against a long march by Land . Thus we left them at the Zamblas . From thence an Indian Captain , or chief Commander , They go to the Golden Island named Andraeas , conducted us to another Island , called by the English , the Golden Island ▪ situated something to the westward of the mouth of the great River of Darien . At this Island we met , being in all seven Sail , on the third of April , 1680.

Here at the Golden Island , the Indians gave us notice of a Town called Sancta Maria , 〈◊〉 set forth for Sancta Maria . situate on a great River , which beareth the same name , and which runneth into the South Sea , by the Gulf of San Miguèl . That in the Town was kept a Garrison of four hundred Souldiers ; and that from this place much Gold was carried to Panama , which was gathered from the Mountains thereabouts . That in case we should not find sufficient purchase there , we might from thence proceed by Sea to Panama , where we could not easily fail of our designs . This motion of the Indians we liked so well , that we landed three hundred and thirty one men , on April the 5th 1680. leaving Captain Alleston , and Mackett , with a party of Seamen , to guard our Ships in our absence ; with which we intended to return home .

Their Provision and Colours These men that were landed , had each of them three or four Cakes of Bread , ( called by the English Dough-boy's ) for their provision of Victuals ; and as for drink , the Rivers afforded them enough . At that time of our Landing , Captain Sharp was very faint and weak , as having had a great ●it of sickness lately , which he had scarcely recovered . Our several Companies that marched , were distinguished as followeth . First , Captain Bartholomew Sharp with his Company had a red Flag , with a bunch of white and green Ribbons . The second Division led by Captain Richard Sawkins , with his men had a red Flag striped with yellow . The third and fourth , which were led by Captain Peter Harris , had two green Flags , his Company being divided into two several Divisions . The fifth and sixth , which being led by Captain John Coxon , who had some of Alleston's and Macketts men joyned unto his , made two Divisions or Companies , had each of them a red Flag . The seventh was led by Captain Edmond Cook with red Colours striped with yellow , with a Hand and Sword for his devise . All , or most of them , were Armed with Fuzee , Pistol , and Hanger .

CHAP. II. They march towards the Town of Santa Maria with design to take it . The Indian King of Darien meeteth them by the way . Difficulties of this March , with other occurrences till they arrive at the place .

BEing landed on the Coast of Darien , First days march . and divided into Companies , as was mentioned in the preceding Chapter , we began our march towards Santa Maria , the Indians serving us for guides in that unknown Country . Thus we marched at first through a small skirt of a wood , and then over a bay almost a League in length . After that , we went two Leagues directly up a woody valley , where we saw here and there an old Plantation , and had a very good path to march in . There we came to the side of a River , which in most places was dry , and built us Houses , or rather Huts to lodge in .

Unto this place came unto us another Indian , An Indian Commander joyneth them . who was a chief Commander , and a man of great parts , named Captain Antonio . This Indian Officer encouraged us very much to undertake the Journey of Santa Maria , and promised to be our Leader ; saying , he would go along with us now , but that his Child lay very sick . However , he was assured , it would dye by next day ; and then he would most certainly follow and overtake us . Withal , he desired we would not lye in the grass , for fear of monstrous Adders , which are very frequent in those places . Breaking some of the stones that lay in the River , we found them shine with sparks of Gold . These stones are driven down from the neighbouring Mountains in time of floods . Four of their number return back . This day four of our men tyred , and returned back unto the Ships . So we remained in all 327 men , with six Indians to conduct us . That night some showers of rain fell .

The next day of our march we mounted a very steep hill , and on the other side , at the foot thereof , we rested on the bank of a River , which Captain Andraeas told us , did run into the South Sea ; being the same River on which the Town of Santa Maria was situated . Hence we continued our march until noon , and then ascended another Mountain extreamly higher than the former . Here we ran much danger oftentimes , and in many places , the Mountain being so perpendicular , and the path so narrow , that but one man at a time could pass . We arrived by the dark of the evening to the other side of the Mountain , and lodged again by the side of the same River , having marched that day , according to our reckoning , about eighteen miles . This night likewise some rain did fall .

The next morning , being April the 7th , we marched all along the River aforementioned , crossing it often , almost at every half mile , sometimes up to the knees , and at other times up to the middle , in a very swift current . About noon we came to a place , where we found some Indian houses . Th●se were very large and neat : the sides were built wi●h Cabbage-trees , and the roofs of wild Canes , being , over them , 〈…〉 Darien thatcht with Palmito Royal , but far more neater than ●urs at Jamaica . They had many divisions into rooms , though no ascent by s●airs into Chambers . At this place were four of these houses together , that is , within a stones throw one of another , each of them having a large Plantane walk before it . At the distance of half a mile from this place , lived the King or chief Captain of these Indians of Darien , who came to visit us in Royal Robes , with his Queen and Family . His Crown was made of small white 〈◊〉 ▪ which were curiously woven , having no other top than its lining , which was red silk . Round about the middle of it was a thin plate of gold , more than two inches broad , la●ed behind ; from whence did stick two or three Ostrich feathers . About this pla●e went also a row of golden beads , which were bigger than ordinary pease ; underneath which the red lining of the Crown was seen . In his nose he wore a large plate of gold , in form of an half Moon ; and in each ear a great golden ring , nigh four inches in diameter , with a round thin plate of Gold of the same breadth , having a small hole in the center , and by that hanging to the ring . He was covered with a thin white cotton robe , reaching unto the small of his legs , and round its bottom a fringe of the same three inches deep . So that by the length of this Robe , our sight was impeded , that we could see no higher than his naked Ankles . In his hand he had a long bright Lance , as sharp as any knife . With him he had three Sons , each of them having a white Robe , and their Lances in their hands , but standing bare-headed before him ; as also were eight or nine persons more of his Retinue , or Guard . His Queen wore a red Blanket , Attire of the Queen . which was closely girt about her wast : and another that came loosely over her head and shoulders , like unto our old fashion striped hangings . She had a young Child in her arms , and two Daughters walked by her , both Mariageable , with their faces almost covered with stripes or streaks of red , and about their Neck and Arms , almost loaden with small Beads of several colours . These Indian women of the Province of Darien , are generally very free , airy , and brisk ; yet withal very modest , and cautious in their Husbands presence , of whose jealousie they stand in fear . With these Indians we made an exchange , or had a truck , as it is called , for Knives , Pins , Needles , or any other such like trifles ; but in our dealing with them we found them to be very cunning . Here we rested our selves for the space of one day ; and withal , chose Captain Sawkins to lead the Forlorn , unto whom , for that purpose , we gave the choice of Fourscore men . The King ordered us each man to have three Plantans , with Sugar-canes to suck , by way of a Present . But when these were consumed , if we would not truck we must have starved ; for the King himself did not refuse to deal for his Plantans . This sort of Fruit is first reduced to mash , then laid between leaves of the same tree , and so used with water ; after which preparation they call it Miscelaw .

Fourth days march . On April the Ninth we continued our march along the banks of the River abovementioned , finding in our way here and there a House . The owners of the said Houses would most commonly stand at the door , and give , as we passed by , to every one of us , either a ripe Plantane , or some sweet Cazave-root . Some of them would count us by dropping a grain of Corn for each man that passed before them ; for they know no greater number , nor can tell no farther then Twenty . That night we arrived at three great Indian Houses , where we took up our Lodgings , the weather being clear and serene all night .

The next day Captain Sharp , Captain Coxon , and Captain Cook , with about threescore and ten of our men , embarked themselves in fourteen Canoas upon the River , to glide down the stream . Among this number I did also embark ; and we had in our company our Indian Captain Andraeas , of whom mention was made above ; and two Indians more in each Canoa , to Pilot or guide us down the River . But if it was so that we were tired in travelling by Land before , certainly we were in a worser condition now in our Canoas . For at the distance of almost every stones cast , we were constrained to quit , and get out of our Boats , and hale them over either Sands or Rocks : at other times over Trees that lay cross and filled up the River , so that they hindred our Navigation ; yea , several times over the very points of Land it self . That night we built our selves Huts to shelter in upon the River side , and rested our wearied Limbs until next morning .

This being come , we prosecuted our Journey all day long with the same fatigue and toil , as we had done the day before . At night came a Tygre and looked on us for some while , but we dared not to fire at the Animal , fearing we should be descryed by the sound of our Fuzees : the Spaniards , as we were told , not being at much distance from that place .

But the next day , which was April the Twelfth , Seventh day● march . our pain and labour was rather doubled than diminished ; not only for the difficulties of the way , which was intolerable , but chiefly for the absence of our main body of men , from whom we had parted the day before . For now hearing no news of them , we grew extreamly jealous of the Indians and their Councels , suspecting it a design of those people thus to divide our Forces , and then cutting us off , betray us unto the Spaniards our implacable Enemies . That night we rested our selves by building of Huts , as we had done , and hath been mentioned before .

On Tuesday morning , the next ensuing day , Eighth days march . we continued our Navigation down the River , and arrived at a beachy point of Land ; at which place another Arm joyneth the same River . Here , as we understood , the Indians of Darien did usually Rendezvous , whensoever they drew up in a Body , with intention to fight their ancient Enemies the Spaniards . Here also we made a hault , or stayed for the rest of our Forces and Company , the Indians having now sent to seek them , as being themselves not a little concerned at our dissatisfaction and jealousies . In the afternoon our Companions came up with us , and were hugely glad to see us , they having been in no less fear for us , than we had been at the same time for them . We continued and rested there that night also , with design to fit our Arms for action , which now , as we were told , was nigh at hand .

We departed from thence early the next morning , Ninth days march . which was the last day of our march , being in all now , the number of threescore and eight Canoa's , wherein were imbarked 327 of us Englishmen , and 50 Indians , who served us for Guides . Unto the point above-mentioned , the Indians had hitherto guided our Canoas with long Poles or sticks ; but now we made our selves Oars and Paddles to row withal , and thereby make what speed we could . Thus we rowed with all hast imaginable , and upon the River hapned to meet two or three Indian Canoas that were laded with Plantans . They arrive at Santa Maria. About midnight we arrived and landed at the distance of half a mile , more or less , from the Town of Santa Maria , whither our march was all along intended . The place where we landed was deeply muddy , insomuch , that we were constrained to lay our paddles on the mud to wade upon , and withal , lift our selves up by the boughs of the trees , to support our Bodies from sinking . Afterwards we were forced to cut our way through the woods for some space , where we took up our Lodgings for that night , for fear of being discovered by the Enemy , unto whom we were so nigh .

CHAP. III. They take the Town of Santa Maria with no loss of Men , and but small purchase of what they sought for . Description of the Place , Country , and River adjacent . They resolve to go and plunder the second time the City of Panama .

THe next morning , which was Thursday April the Fifteenth , 〈…〉 the Town and Fort. about break of day , we heard from the Town a small Arm discharged , and after that a Drum beating a travailler . With this we were roused from our sleep , and taking up our Arms , we put our selves in order and marched towards the Town . As soon as we came out of the Woods into the open ground , we were descryed by the Spaniards , who had received before-hand intelligence of our coming , and were prepared to receive us , having already conveyed away all their Treasure of Gold , and sent it to Panama . They ran immediately into a large Palizada Fort , having each Pale or Post twelve foot high , and began to fire very briskly at us as we came . But our Vanguard ran up unto the place , and pulling down two or three of their Palizadas , They take the place . entred the Fort incontinently , and made themselves Masters thereof . In this Action there were not fifty of our men that came up before the Fort was taken ; and on our side only two were wounded , and not one killed . Notwithstanding within the place were found two hundred and threescore men , besides which number , two hundred others were said to be absent , being gone up into the Countrey unto the Mines to fetch down Gold , or rather to convey away what was already in the Town . This golden Treasure cometh down another branch of this River unto Santa Maria , from the neighbouring Mountains , where are thought to be the richest Mines of the Indies , or , at least , of all these parts of the Western World . Of the Spaniards we killed in the assault twenty six , and wounded to the number of sixteen more . But their Governour , their Priest , and all , or most of their chief men , made their escape by flight .

Having taken the Fort , Description of the Town . we expected to find here a considerable Town belonging unto it . But it proved to be only some wild houses made of Cane , the place being chiefly a Garrison designed to keep the Indians in subjection , who bare a mortal hatred , and are often apt to rebel against the Spaniards . But as bad a place as it was , our fortune was much worse . For we came only three days too late , or else we had met with three hundred weight of Gold , They miss of their design● . which was carried thence to Panama in a Bark , that is sent from thence twice or thrice every year , to fetch what Gold is brought to Santa Maria from the Mountains . This River , called by the name of the Town , is hereabouts twice as broad as the River of Thames is at London , and floweth above threescore miles upwards , rising to the heighth of two fathom and a half at the Town it self . As soon as we had taken the place , the Indians who belonged to our company , and had served us for Guides , came up unto the Town . For mean while they heard the noise of the Guns , they were in a great consternation , and dared not approach the Palizadas , but had hidden themselves closely in a small hollow ground , insomuch that the bullets , while we were fighting flew over their heads .

Here we found and redeemed the eldest Daughter of the King of Darien , of whom we made mention above . She had , as it should seem , been forced away from her Fathers house by one of the Garison , ( which Rape had hugely incensed him against the Spaniards ) and was with Child by him . After the Fight the Indians destroyed as many more of the Spaniards , as we had done in the assault , by taking them into the adjoyning Woods , and there stabbing them to death with their Lances . But so soon as we understood this their barbarous cruelty , we hindred them from taking any more out of the Fort , where we confined them every one Prisoners . Captain Sawkins with a small party of ten more , put himself into a Canoa , and went down the River , to pursue and stop , if it were possible , those that had escaped , who were the chiefest of the Town and Garrison . But now our great expectations of making an huge purchase of Gold at this place being totally vanished , we were unwilling to come so far for nothing , or go back empty-handed ; especially , considering what vast riches were to be had at no great distance from thence . Hereupon , we resolved to go for Panama , which place if we could take , we were assured we should get Treasure enough , to satisfie our hungry appetite of Gold and Riches , that City being the receptacle of all the Plate , Jewels , and Gold that is digged out of the Mines of all Potost and Peru. Unto this effect therefore , and to please the humours of some of our company , we made choice of Captain Coxon to be our General , or Commander in chief . Before our departure , we sent back what small booty we had taken here by some prisoners , and these under the charge of twelve of our men to convey it unto the Ships .

〈◊〉 Panama . Thus we prepared to go forward on that dangerous enterprize of Panama . But the Indians who had conducted us having gotten from us what Knives , Sizars , Axes , Needles , and Beads they could obtain , would not stay any longer , but all , or the greatest part of them returned to their home . Which notwithstanding , the King himself , Captain Andraeas , Captain Antonio , the Kings Son , The chiefest remain . called by the Spaniards , Bonete de Oro , or King Golden-cap , as also his Kinsman , would not be perswaded by their falling off to leave us , but resolved to go to Panama , out of the desire they had to see that place taken and sackt . Yea , the King promised , if there should be occasion , to joyn fifty thousand men unto our Forces . Besides which promises , we had also another encouragement very considerable to undertake this journey . For the Spaniard who had forced away the Kings Daughter , as was mentioned above , fearing lest we should leave him to the mercy of the Indians , who would have had but little on him , having shewed themselves so cruel unto the rest of his Companions , for the safety of his life had promised to lead us , not only into the Town , but even to the very bed-chamber door of the Governour of Panama , and that we should take him by the hand , and seize both him and the whole City , before we should be discovered by the Spaniards , either before or after our arrival .