CHAP. I. Of the Name of Lapland .

THIS Country doth not every where pass by the same name . By some 't is called Lappia , as Johann . Magnus in the Preface of his history , and Saxo Grammat . in his 5th book ; by others Lapponia , as Olaus Magnus in the explication of his Map of Scandinavia , and Ziegler in his description of the Northern Countries , and before these Ericus Versaliensis , and after them Andr. Buraeus . The Swedes usually call the Country Lapmarkia , in whose language Mark signifies Land ; the Danes and Norwegians , Laplandia , and also Findmarkia , as appears from Petr. Claudus description of Norway : for no one can gather any thing else but an account of this Country , from his whole 38th Chapt. which himself too seems to intimate , when he promises more about Findmarkia in his description of Lapland . Of i'ts being call'd Findmark , I shall speak in another place ; Now we will see why 't is call'd Lapponia and Lappia , the Etymology of which words is not yet agreed upon by the Learned . Ziegler thinks they were named so by the Germans , from the dulness and stupidity of the people , which the word Lappi signifies amongst them ; but this seems improbable , since this Country is but of late known to the Germans , and none of their antient Writers make any mention of Lappia . Moreover , the Finlanders , Swedes and Russians , who differ much in their language from one another , as well as from the Germans , call it all by the same name ; and the Germans , who are so remote from Lapland , could not transmit this name to these more Northern Countries , especially when they had little or no commerce with them . Neither are the people so very dull and stupid ; as Ziegler himself afterwards acknowledges , when he confesses they are good at the needle , and make delicate embroidered clothes . Neither can I assent to Wexionius's opinion , that the Swedes gave them this name from their wearing of Skins ; for Lapper and Skinlapper do not signify skins , but the same as the Greeks 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 ( in English Rags ) from whence Ol. Petr. Nieuren , who writ of Lapland in Guslavus Adolphus's time , derives their name from their coming into Swedland every year with rags lapt about them , which is the signification of Lapp in that language . But they do not deserve that name , meerly for this reason , any more than the Finlanders and others , for they are generally cloth'd in good woollen garments , as we shall shew hereafter . Grotius thinks they are call'd Lapps from running or leaping , but Loepa , which in the Swedish language signifies to run , is writ with a single P , and the name of this Country with a double one : and these People naturally are no great runners , tho by an art they have of sliding over the frozen snow , they are very swift in their motions . Some think that the Inhabitants do not denominate the Country , but the Country the Inhabitants , as in the name of Norwegians and others , which seems to be strengthned by this , because Ol. Magnus calls them Lappomanni , after the manner of Nordmanni , Westmanni , and Sudermanni , in which words Manni signifying Men , they were call'd Lappomanni , i. e. Men of Lappia . a a Johann . Tornaeus . Others fancy that the name of the Country is deriv'd from Lappu , which in the Finnonick language is furthermost , because it lies in the farthest part of Scandinavia . There is yet another opinion which may seem no less plausible then any of the former , which agrees as well with the signification of the word Lapp among the Laplanders themselves , as the credit given to what has been matter of fact , viz. that 't was call'd Lappia , not from its situation , or other such like accident , but from the Lappi that inhabited it . So that I take Lappi to signify no other than banish't persons , which is the genuine signification of Lapp in the Lapland language ; for the Laplanders were originally Finlanders , and from leaving their Country may be presum'd to have took their name ; and that not of their own choosing , but the Finlanders b b Ol. Petr. Nieuren . Plantin . jun. Praef. M S. Lexic . Lappon . imposition , with whom to Lapp signifies to run away : whence the compellation seeming something scandalous , no person of quality to this day will endure to be call'd by it , tho from the Finlanders others Nations , as the Germans , Swedes and Moscovites , have learnt to call them so . But they of Lappia Vmensis stile themselves Sabmienladti , and those of Lappia Tornensis , Sameednan , from the word Sabmi or Same ; the signification of which , and whence they had it , we shall see hereafter .

At what time this Country and it's inhabitants were first distinguish't by these names Lappia and Lappi , 't is hard to prove : 't is certain 't was but of late , for the words are not found in any antient writer , neither in Tacitus , who mentions their neighbours and forefathers the Finlanders , nor in Ptolomy , Solinus , Anton. Augustus , Rutilius , or others , neither in Authors nearer home ( not to name Jornandes , Paul Warnefrid , &c. ) nor in those who have writ the actions of Heraud and Bosa , or Goetricus and Rolfus , or King Olafus in the Islandick , Norwegian or Gothick language : we find nothing of them in Adam Bremensis , whose diligence in writing of the Northern Countries , his Scandinavia sufficiently testifies ; or in Sturlisonius , who writ very accuratly of these parts in his own language . Therefore I cannot be so easily persuaded with Grotius to believe Cluverius , who says they were mention'd in the Peutingerian Tables , the Author of which is thought to have liv'd at least before Theodosius's time , i. e. 600 years before Adam Bremensis : how then could he , that was none of the best Geographers , if we may beleive Welserus , and very far distant from these parts , give us any account of them , since Adam Bremensis , who was so near a neighbour , and had commerce with those that lived there , could give us none ? Besides , in that Table the Sarmatians are called Lupiones , with whom the Lappi were nothing concerned ; neither doth any antient Author say they were seated so far Northward : wherefore the Lupiones there described are any People rather then the Laplanders , for at that time , when the Author writ , they were not so much as known to any of their neighbours , the Gothick Norwegian or Danish writers . The first that mentions Lapland is Saxo Gramat . Hist. Dan. l. 5. who lived and wrote about Ann. 1190 , and therefore was after Adam Bremensis ( who lived about 1077 ) near 130 years , in which interval this name must needs come first in use . For Saxo making mention of such a Country a great while before , in the time of Frotho the third contemporary to Alricus King of Swedland ( who they say lived before Christ ) doth not prove that 't was called so then , but that that Country might afterwards have had this appellation ; and I am fully perswaded , that Adam Bremensis would not have omitted this name if he had had any knowledge of it . Afterward Er. Vpsaliensis speaks of it about 1470 i. e. almost 300 years after Saxo , and 200 before this present time . After them Jac. Ziegler made a large and learned description of it , by which it came to be known all over Europe . For however we may meet with the name Lappia in Saxo , none but the Swedes and Finlanders , before Zieglers time , knew any thing of it . And so much for the names of Lapland .

CHAP. II. Of the Situation of Lapland .

THE true and exact situation of this Country the Antients seem not to have sufficiently discovered . Saxo makes it bordering upon Jamtia , extending its self as far , or rather lying as it were between Helsingia and Finland , when in these words he says the Provinces of the Helsingi , Iarnberi , Iemti , with both the Lappia's , as likewise Finnia and Estia paid annual tribute to one Domarus . Ericus Vpsaliensis seems to make it a part of Finland , mistaking it for a certain part of that Kingdome so called , on the one side adjoining to Swedland , on the other to Russia , giving it a place between Carelia and Nylandia . Ol. Magn. in his Table , and so his brother Johan . Magnus in the Preface of his History , place it higher then the western Bothnia , making neighbours to it Scrikfinnia furthest towards the North , and Biarmia towards the East ; though some a a Buraeus in his descr . of Swedland . think there is no such place as Scrikfinnia , as it is certain there is none in those parts at this day called by that name . But yet we must not slightly pass over the unanimous opinion of so many learned men , especially Saxo , not a little knowing in the Northern affairs , who have all not barely named it , but have described the humours of the Inhabitants , their manners , habits and fashion of their governments , with other matters belonging to them . Instead of the Scrickfinni or Scricfinni of Johan . and Ol. Magn. I would rather read it Scritofinni ; and as for Skidfinni as Adr. Burae would have it , all the Antients , what ever else they differ in , will agree in this , that there must be an R in the word . Jornandez calls them Scretfennae , Paul . Warnefrid . and Diacon . Scritobini changing f in b ( of which and some other things of the like nature I will treat in due time and place ) Adam Bremensis Scritefinni : and the Greeks agree in this writing , so that we ought not to doubt of the Latines . Procopius will have them sometimes 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 , other times 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 . Besides 't is manifest since the Scritefinni are the same with the Finni , whose Etymology in their own language is from leaping , by an art they have , by which with crooked pieces of wood under their feet like a bow they hunt wild beasts ; they could not therefore take their name from Skidh , signifying the wooden shoes themselves , but from their leaping , i. e. swift running with them , which doubtless antiently was meant by Skriida , and which the Author cited by Warnius in the 46 page of his Lexicon confirms , where he relates the form of an oath made by Hafur , that he would preserve the peace Quamdiu Finnur skriidar , i. e. as long as the Finlanders continued their manner of leaping . As for the Etymology that is there given , that it signifies their wandring up and down , 't is altogether false , for Skridsko at this day denotes those wooden shoes which they run upon the ice with ; neither doth Skirida signify any thing else among the Antients but to glide along the ground , for they do not take up one foot after the other , as in common running , but carrying themselves steady upon the frozen snow , they move forward stooping a little , as shall be shewn hereafter . And perhaps this is the onely cause that they are called Himantopodes , People creeping upon their knees ; which agrees exactly with these Scritofinni : for they hearing that Skriida was to creep along , what could they fancy the Scritofinni to be , but People not going like other men , but crawling forward like creeping animalls , but of this I shall speak more at large when I come to the Laplanders gliding upon the ice . That which I would chiefly evince here , is , that there are such a people rightly called Scritofinni , and the Country which they inhabit is Scritofinnia or Scritfinnia , and that there is no reason we should think there was no such place , since there are those who are called Scritfinni , i. e. Finlanders , who run upon the ice with wooden shoes , whose Country from thence may well be called Scritofinnia . And the same may be urged for Biarmia against those that will not allow there is any such place . For first the antient Writers making frequent mention of it , as that Author of the History thereof , calls it often Biarmaland in the old Gothick or Islandick language , who also calls the King of it Hereker in Ch. 7. and his two Sons , the one Roerik the other Siggeir . Saxo likewise in his 9th book , speaks of a certain King of this place , who reigned in the time of Regner King of the Danes , making it border upon Finland , when he says the King of Biarmia fled for refuge to Matullus , who then reigned in Finland . But now granting there were antiently such names as Biarmia and Scritfinnia , it remains doubtfull still whether they were distinct Countries or no. All Authors except Johan . and Ol. Magn. seem to make them the same , Procop. Jornand . Paul . Warnfrid . and Adam Bremensis speak of Scritfinnia , but none of Biarmia , and the Northern writers do just contrary . Saxo indeed mentions them both , but not at the same time : once in his Preface he names Scritfinnia , leaving out Biarmia , in other places he names Biarmia omitting the other ; from whence I am almost of opinion that 't is the same Country called by native Writers Biarmia , by forreign Scritfinnia . We may add further that as Adam Bremensis makes Scritfinnia next to Helsingia , the Author of the History of Herand and Bosa sets Biarmia in the same place , speaking of some Woods in it , and Rivers that emty themselves into the Sinus Bothnicus or bay of Ganduia next to Helsingia . And moreover as the Scritfinni are a People of Finland , which not onely their name , but an old Chorographick Table commended by Grotius doth intimate , distinguishing the Fenni into the Scritfenni and Redefenni , so 't is probable of the Biarmians b b Paul . Warnefrid . c c Ad. Erem . Solin . c. 44. as well for their neighbourhood to Helsingia , of which before , as for their worshipping a God by the name of Jomala , which is a Finland word , denoting God amongst them to this day . Moreover the Biarmians have many other things like the Finlanders , as the Art of darting , of Magic , &c. So that Biarmia may be a Colony of Finland , whose People were , called by Strangers , from their skirring along , or gliding upon the snow , Scritofinni . But now supposing all this true , and that the Biarmia of the Ancients , and Scritfinnia were the same , 't is a question still whether Lapland be distinct from them or not . Joh. and Ol. Magnus in their Geographic Tables and descriptions , make them distinct Countries . But that cannot be ; for if Scritfinnia and Biarmia reach one way to Helsingia and Jamtia , on the other to Finland ; if they lye so near these Provinces , and extend to the Bay of Bothnia ( both which have bin demonstrated before ) I do not see where Lapland can have any place at all . And the same Authors are also mistaken in putting it South of Biarmia and Scritfinnia , whereas the Antients placed these beyond it . For that they mean't only by Biarmia that which the Swedes now call Trennes , appears to be false from what has bin said before : for where are any Rivers in Trennes that run into the Bay of Bothnia ? and how is it bordering upon Finland ? Wherefore contrary to Joh. and Ol. Magnus , I think rather that Lapland is the same that was first by the Inhabitants called Biarmia , by Strangers Scritfinnia , then changing the name for some of the reasons here produced , it came to be Lappia or Lapponia ; which beginning from Jamtia and Angermannia , goes all about each Bothnia , and at length ends in the extremities of Carelia and Finland , so as to comprehend all the whole tract from the North even to the main Ocean , the white Sea , and the Lake Ladek , which are the very bounds of old Biarmia and Scritfinnia . But that it went as far as the Ocean , the Antients seem not to have so well understood ; nor indeed Johan . and Ol. Magnus , who in those parts have made Scritfinnia and Biarmia different Countries from Lapland . So also Damianus Goes , who , whatever he knew of Lapland , had it from them , says it extends it self to unknown Regions , because he knew not who lived further towards the North Sea . But the Antients have placed there , besides the Scritfinni , the Cynocephali , Busti , Troglodytes , Pygmies , Cyclops's , : and some others , passing by the Himantopodes , of whom we have spoken before : tho in this age none doubts but the Laplanders inhabit it all , and those who have sailed along those Coasts have met with none others but Laplanders . In fine Charles the 9th King of Swedland in the year 1600 , being desirous to know the truth of that Country , sent two famous Mathematicians , M. Aron . Forsius a Swedish Professour , and Hicronymus Birkholten a German , with instruments , and all necessaries to make what discoveries they could of Lapland ; who at their return , did certify , and make it out , that beyond the Elevation of the Pole 73 degrees there was no Continent towards the North but the great frozen Sea , and that the farthest point was Norcum or Norcap , not far from the Castle of Wardhouse . But of this distant Lapland those that are curious may enquire at their leisure , we purpose to treat here only of that which is subject to the Government of the Swedes ; and this is a vast Country , thought by Paulinus in his history of the North , of equall extent almost with all Swedland properly so called . Andr. Buraeus says it contains in length above 100 German miles , and in breadth 90. All this Country comes now under the name of Lapland , in which all agree that ever described it , and if we would take an account of the Climate of it by this vast compass of Earth , we must begin from the 64th degree of latitude , and so to the 71 ; but in longitude it must extend at least to the 27th Meridian , or more . Moreover if we will compute the longitude from journies that have bin made thither , all hitherto have unanimously put the beginning of it about the 38th degree , and the end in the 65th . And this may suffice partly for an account of the situation of Lapland in general ; and partly of that which is subject to the Swedes . Dam. à Goes , a Knight of Portugall , sets its bounds thus in his description of Spain : Lapland is divided into the Eastern and Western part , the Bothnick Sea coming between . The extremity of it is Tornia . Eastward it reaches to the white Lake , towards the North comprehending diverse Provinces , and extends it self beyond all knowledge . On the West towards Island it joins to part of Norway , and on the other side of Norway 't is bounded with Swedland , Finland , and both the Bothnia's . But Ol. Petr. Nieuren confutes this of the Bothnic Sea lying between ; for so part of Lapland would lie in Finland or Ostrobothnia , part in Westrobothnia , which every one knows is false : and the very vulgar can tell so much , that the Bothnic Sea comes not any where within 18 or 20 miles of Lapland : tho this ought not to pass beyond Damianus's time , since Nieurenius himself confesses in another place , that the Laplanders had their feat about the Bothnic Sea , but that afterwards they were driven out , of which I shall speak hereafter . I will only add here a Table of the latitudes and longitudes of the chiefest Places , as they were taken by M. Aronis Forsius and Hieronymus Birckholten Ann. 1600.

Longit. Latit . Uma 38 , 0. 65 , 11. Pitha 40 , 0. 66 , 14. Lula 40 , 30. 66 , 30. Toerna 42 , 27. 67 , 0. Kimi 42 , 20. 67 , 1. Lappijaerf 42 , 33. 70 , 9. Antoware 44 , 4. 70 , 26. Tenokijle 46 , 0. 70 , 50. Porsanger 44 , 2. 71 , 42. Porsanger 43 , 35. 71 , 35. Lingen 37 , 30. 70 , 30. Traenees 32 , 30. 70 , 25. Euvenes 33 , 35. 70 , 0. Titisare 37 , 55. 69 , 40. Piala 41 , 40. 60 , 15. Siguar 38 , 35. 68 , 59. Tingwar 38 , 0. 69 , 40. Rounula 39 , 30. 69 , 47. Kontokrine 42 , 0. 69 , 17. Waranger 45 , 0. 71 , 35. Lanzoard 45 , 35. 71 , 26. Hwalsund 42 , 40. 71 , 12. Skrisae 38 , 50. 71 , 18. Trumsae 35 , 52. 70 , 55. Andaces 32 , 0. 70 , 30. Serghen 32 , 20. 69 , 3. Wardhus 52 , 0. 71 , 55. Norkaap . 45 , 30. 72 , 30.

I proceed next to the disposition and nature of the Country , having first given you a Map of it .

CHAP. III. Of the temperature of the Air , and soil of Lapland .

WE have seen how Lapland is situate ; let us next proceed to other particularities of it . That 't is very near the Pole appears from its latitude , insomuch that for some months in the Summer the Sun here never sets , and on the contrary in the Winter it never rises ; which Herbersten says is but forty days , and tho three hours in the night the body of it is something darkned , so that his raies appear not , yet there is so much light , that they continue their work all the while . Indeed the same account is not to be taken of the whole Country , since part of it lies nearer , and part further distant from the Pole ; and of these too some parts are more East , and some more to the West , from whence 't is that with some of them the Sun is scarce above the Horizon for so many daies as he pretends . And altho in the Summer it never sets and goes below the Earth , yet neither does it rise much above it , but as it were kisses and gently glides along the Horizon for the most part ; as likewise in the Winter when lowest it is not much beneath it : which is the reason that tho they have one continued night for some months , yet every day the Sun comes so near , that it makes a kind of twilight . Joh. Magnus saies that in the absence of the Sun there are two twilights , one in the morning , the other in the evening , in which those poor remainders of day provide that the night should not be utterly destructive . And by how much the Sun is farther absent , the light of the Moon is clearer . Hence Petr. Claud. saies that when the Moon shines they go a fishing , and dispatch all other necessaries that are to be done without doors ; and when it does not , if the air be clear , even the light of the Stars so much abates the darkness , that the horrour of the night is much lessened , and there is light enough for the dispatch of severall businesses , which is farther assisted by the whiteness of the Snow . The Air of Lapland is cold , but fresh and clear , and consequently very wholesome , being much purified by the winds which are here very frequent and violent . It has bin attested to me by eye-witnesses , that there rises a certain wind out of the Sea , which beginning to blow raises presently such thick and dark clouds even in the midst of Summer , that they utterly hinder the sight , and in the Winter drives the snow with such force and quantity , that if any person be surprised abroad , he hath no other remedy but to throw himself on the ground with some garment over him , suffering himself to be quite buried in snow till the storm is past , which don , he rises up , and betakes himself to the next Cortage he can meet , all paths and roads being hid in the snow . But the strongest and most irresistible winds are upon the Mountains , where they throw down all things they meet with , and carry them away by their violence into far distant places , where they are never seen or heard of afterwards . Their only help against these is to convey themselves into dens and caves . Here is rain as in other places , sometimes more , and sometimes less , but in the midst of Summer , this as likewise the neighbouring Countries have very seldom any at all . Snow they have more often , and so much that in the Winter it covers all the Country , of which they make this advantage , that they can travel the more securely in the night ; for the light of the Moon reflected from the snow , enlightens all the fields , that they can discern and avoid any pits , precipices and wild Beasts , that would otherwise annoy them : so convenient are the wayes for any journy , that two rein deer will draw a greater load over the trodden snow , then a Cart and ten Horses can in the fields at other times . These snows in some places , as on the tops of their highest hills , remain perpetually , and are never melted by the strongest heat of the Sun . In the upper part of Lapland there are Mountains rising to such a vast hight , that the snow continues upon them Summer and Winter , and is never dissolved , but in other places the Land is every year overflown with floods of melted snow . They have also very great frosts and mists , and good store of them , which sometimes so thicken the air , that the sight is quite obstructed , and Passengers cann't distinguish one man from another to salute or avoid him , tho he be come close up to them . It is so extreme cold here in the Winter , that 't is not to be endured but by those who have bin bred up in it . The swiftest Rivers are sometimes frozen so hard , that the ice is more than three or four cubits thick ; and their greatest Lakes and deepest Seas bear any burdens whatever . Nor is the Summer , which to some may seem incredible , more moderately hot . For tho the Sun be very low , and his raies oblique , yet lying upon them so long together , their force is strangely increast ; the only allay being from the vapors rising out of the neighbouring Sea , and from the snows , which as well in Summer as Winter continue undissolv'd in hollow places between the hills . As for Spring and Autumn they know neither , there being so very little space between the extremity of cold in the Winter , and heat in Summer , that by Strangers 't is look't upon as a miracle to see every thing springing fresh and green , when but a week before all things were overwhelm'd with frost and snow . Ol. Petr. Nieuren . has observed it as a memorable thing , and which he would not have believ'd from any one had he not seen it himself , that in the year 1616 , June 24 , going to the Church of Thor , he saw the trees budding , and the grass coming up green out of the ground , and within a fortnight after he saw the Plants full blown , and the leaves of the trees at their perfection , as if they had known how short the Summer was to be , and therefore made such hast to enjoy it . Their soil is generally neither very fertile nor barren , but between both , full of flints , stones and rocks , every where appearing high , by whose unevenness and roughness the rest of the ground about is useless . The ground is generally very soft and slabby , by reason of the many Lakes and Rivers overslowing , yet would it be sit either for tillage or pasture if any would be at the pains and charge of draining it . Ol. Petrus saies of the Southern part , lying under the same climate and influence of the Heavens with Bothnia , that 't is as apt to bear any grain as the Western Bothnia it self , but this is not without a concurrence and aptitude likewise of the soil : and he himself confesses in Chap. 12th , that the Land is stony , sandy , uneven , overrun in some places with briars and thornes , and in others nothing but hills ; moores , fennes and standing waters , which are not the qualities that usually commend Land for agriculture . Then as to his urging its verdant and rich pastures , it doth not follow that all Land which yields much grass should be equally capable of bearing good corn . Yet doth the Land afford plenty of grass , and that so good that their Cattel are fatned much cheaper and sooner with it than any other thing , as also divers hearbs , but particularly 't is happy in all kind of pot-hearbs . There are many large Woods and Forests , especially towards Norway , but not very thick ; likewise steep rocks and high mountaines called Doffrini ; upon whose naked tops , by reason of the violence of the winds to which they are exposed , never yet grew tree . Below these hills lie most pleasant Vallies , in which are clear fountaines and rivulets innumerable , which emtying themselves into the rivers , at length are carried into the Bothnic Sea . Their water is clear , sweet and wholesome , only their Forests abound with stinking and standing Pools . This Country Winter and Summer hath an incredible number of all kinds of wild beasts , especially the lesser sorts , which suffice not only for their own use , but to drive a great trade with their neighbours . They have Birds also of all sorts very many , but Fish in such abundance that a great part of the Natives are entirely fed by them . But of all these we shall speak in their proper places , I will add no more here but this , that the Description of old Finland or Scritofinnia by the Ancients is the same which hath bin given here of Lapland ; to confirm what I said before that these Countries differ only in name , and not in nature and situation . We come now to its Division .

CHAP. IV. Of the Division of Lapland .

THoSE who have writ of Lapland , mention disserent divisions of it . Saxo in his 5th Book , and elswhere , speaks of two Laplands , and after him Johannes Magnus tells us , that both the Laplands are joined together Southward . I suppose in that division they had respect to their situation , and meant the Eastern and the Western Lapland : for so Damianus Goes , who seems to borrow from Joh. Magnus , expresses it . Lapland , saith he , is divided into the Eastern and the Western , separated from each other by the Bothnic Sea . From whence we may gather that that part of the Country which lies on one side of the Bothnia , was called the Eastern Lapland , and that which lies on the other , the Western .

Besides this division of Lapland , there is another taken from the places most frequented by the Inhabitants . For one part thereof , lying along the Coasts of the Ocean , is from thence called Sioefindmarken , that is the maritime Lapland ; the other lying higher on the Continent , Fioeldmarken , that is , inland Lapland : tho by some they are called simply Findmarken and Lappmarken . This last division Pet. Claud gives us in his 27th Chapter . All the Sea Coasts , saith he , Northward and Eastward as far as Findmarkia reaches , are possest by the Siaefinni , or maritime Finlanders , but the mountainous and champaign Country , by the Lapfinni , from thence named Lapmarkia or Wildfindlandia , that is wild or savage Findland . Where he calls one part of the Country Lapmarckia , the other Findmarckia , the one lying along the shore , and bordering on the Sea , the other mountainous , woody , and savage , upon the Terra firma . And this too may be worth our notice , that Wildfinland with him is that which others call Lappmarkia : I suppose , because the Natives live by hunting , as those of the other do by fishing . For he presently adds , There are many thousands in that place that feed on nothing but the flesh of wild Beasts . And indeed some there are with whom those only pass for the true Laplanders : as Samuel Rheen , who in his 2d Chapter of his forementioned Book , tells us , that besides the Scrickfinni ( so he calls them that with Pet. Claud. are Sioefinnes ) there are other true Laplanders , that live on nothing but rain deer . And so from the Natives feeding on wild Beasts , Lapland properly so called , is also stiled Wildfindland , in opposition to Findmarkia , whose Inhabitants live both on Fish and Cattel . And yet there may be given another reason for the imposition of this name , from the many woods of that Country . Olaus Magnus in more places then one calls the natives , men that dwell in woods , or Savages : as in the title of his 3d Chapt. of his 4th Book , which is , Concerning the fierceness of the Savages , or those that dwell in woods , in which Chapter he describes the Laplanders . And in the following Chapter he says , that the wild Laplanders are clothed with rich skins of several Beasts . The Baron Herberstenius also in his History of Moscovy , calls them Savage Laplanders , who tho they dwell , says he , on the Sea Coast in little Cottages , and lead a brutish kind of life , are yet more civilized then the Savages of Lapland : whence 't is plain , that by the Findlanders living near the Sea , he means those that others call Sioefinnes , and by the Savage Laplanders those that possess the inland Country , who he thinks were so called from their wildness and barbarity . And by and by he adds , that by converse with Strangers , who come thither to trade , they begin to lay aside their Savage nature , and become a little more civilized . Afterwards he calls them Diki Loppi , which name the Moscovites give them at this time , as hath been shewed elswhere .

There is also a 3d Division of Lapland , that respects the several Princes to whom the Country is in subjection . And this Andr. Buraeus intends , when he tells us , The greatest part of Lapland , viz. the Southern and inland Country , belongs all to the Kingdom of Sweden : The maritime tract , that lies on the Ocean , and is called Findmark ( whose Inhabitants the Sioefinni , or maritime Findlanders , are so named from their living by fishing ) to Norway : The rest of them that dwell from the Castle of Warhuus to the mouth of the white Sea , are subject to the Russians ; which part the Swedes call Trennes , the Natives Pyhinienni , and the Russians Tarchana voloch . Of their subjection to these severall Princes , we shall speak when we come to treat of their Government ; and also of those parts that belong to Norway or Denmark , and Russia . At present we shall only mention the division of that part which is under the Swedes , and is named by Buraeus , the Southern and inland Lapland , and by Petr. Claud. Lappmarkia properly so called . This is divided into six lesser parts called marker , or lands , tho Buraeus chuses to render them Territories or Provinces . Each of these have their distinct names , and are called Aongermandlandslapmark , Vmalappmark , Pithalappmark , Lulalapmark , Tornalapmark , Kiemilapmark . So Samuel Rheen in his first Chapter , That part of Lapland which belongs to Sweden is divided into the Kiemensian , Tornensian , Lulensian , Pithensian , Umensian , and Angermanlandensian Lapmark . Buraeus mentions but five of these Provinces , viz. Vmalappmark , Pithalappmark , Lulalapmark , Tornelapmark , and Kimilapmark , comprehending Angermandlandslapmark under Vmalapmark , not that they are one and the same Province , but because they are both governed by one Lieutenant . Each of these Provinces take their name from Rivers that run thro the midst of them , as Wexionius in his description of Swedland assures us . As for their situation , Angermanlandslapmark borders upon Andermannia and Jemtia , to this joins Vmalapmark , next to that is Pithalapmark , and then Lulelapmark , all of them lying Westward , reaching on one side to that ridg of Hills that divides Swedland from Norway , and on the other side to the Western Bothnia . Northward of them lies Tornelapmark , and extends it self from the fartheh corner of the Bay of Bothnia all along the North Sea , called by Seamen Cape Noort . Next to this lies Kimilapmark , winding from the North toward the East , and bounded on one side by the Eastern Bothnia , on another side by that part of Lapland that belongs to Russia , and on a third side by Cajania and Carelia .

Moreover these Provinces we are speaking of , are subdivided into lesser parts , called by the Swedes Byar , as Samuel Rheen tells us , and are equivavalent to our Shires , and the Pagi of the Ancients . So in Caesar we meet with Pagus Tigurinus , and Pagi Suevorum , which were not Villages or Country Towns , but large parts of a Country , such as the Greeks called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 , used in ancient times in the division of Aegypt . Hence the Glossary renders the ancient Toparchiae , Pagus , 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 . There are several of these Pagi or Shires in each Province , except Angermanlandslapmark , which makes but one Pagus , vulgarly called Aosahla . Vmalapmark hath four , Vma , Lais or Raanby , Granby , and Vapsteen . Pithalapmark seven , Graotreskby , Arfwejerfsby , Lochteby , Arrieplogsby , Wisierfby , Norrvesterby , Westerby . Lulalapmark five , Jochmoch , Sochjoch , Torpinjaur , Zerkislocht , and Rautomjaur . Tornelapmark eight , Tingawaara , Siggewaara , Sondewara , Ronolaby , Pellejerf , Kiedkajerf , Manstalka , Saodankyla , Kithilaby . So that all the Territories or Provinces are divided into 33 Byars . In each of these there are several Clans or Families , which the Swedes call raekar , each of which have a certain allotment of ground assign'd them for the maintenance of themselves and their Cattel ; not in the nature of a Country Farm with us , but of a very great length and bredth , so as to include Rivers , Lakes , Woods , and the like , which all belong to one Clan or family . In every Biar there are as many allotments as there are families that can live of themselves , and are not forced by poverty to serve others . In the Byar called Aosahla there are about 30 of these Clans , or families , in others more or less according as they are in bigness , which all have their several names , tho 't is not worth while to repeat them . And thus much shall suffice of the third division of Lapland , not lately made ( except that under Charles IX some Clans had certain allotments assign'd them ) but derived from very ancient time ; as appears from hence that neither the Laplanders have known , nor the Swedes given them any other , since the Country hath bin under their subjection . Nor are the words modern , or taken from any thing that may give any cause to suspect them of novelty : which I the rather observe , that from hence the native simplicity , agreable to the antiquity of the Nation , may appear .