THE SIX VOYAGES OF JOHN BAPTISTA TAVERNIER , BARON of AUBONNE ; THROUGH Turky , INTO Persia AND THE EAST-INDIES , For the space of Forty Years .

GIVING An Account of the present STATE of those Countries , Viz. Of the RELIGION , GOVERNMENT , CUSTOMS , and COMMERCE of every Country ; and the Figures , Weight , and Value of the MONEY currant all over ASIA .

TO WHICH IS ADDED , A new Description of the SERAGLIO .

Made English by J. P.

ADDED LIKEWISE , A VOYAGE INTO THE INDIES , &c.

By an English Traveller , never before Printed : Publish'd by Dr DANIEL COX .

LONDON : Printed by WILLIAM GODBID , for ROBERT LITTLEBURY at the King's Arms in Little Britain , and MOSES PITT at the Angel in St Paul's Church-yard . 1677.

SInce 't is the Mode of the Age , that no Book comes forth without a Dedication , I hope I shall not be blam'd for addressing these Travels to your Self , as being the Person that has contributed so much to the Ornament and Perfection of the whole Work . Hereby have I sav'd the labour of making Encomiums upon an Author , of whom You have testifi'd your Approbation , by the Encouragement You gave the Publisher . Nor is it reasonable , that TAVERNIER coming into England , should prefer others before a person that hath shew'd him particular kindnesses . For my part , after I had tak'n a Prospect of your personal Candor , I knew not where to give so choice a Stranger better Accommodation : not without some regard to my self ; since I could not think that he who had been so kind to the Original Author , would be an Enemy to his Interpreter . Upon which score , as I presum'd at first , I hope You will pardon the farther presumption of styling my self ,

IF the effect of Education may be liken'd to a second Birth , I may truly say , that I came into the World with a desire to travel . The daily discourses which several Learned men had with my Father upon Geographical subjects , which my Father had the reputation of understanding very well , and to which , though very young , I was with much delight attentive , inspir'd me betimes with a design to see some part of those Countries , which were represented to me in the Maps , from which I never could keep off my Eyes . By two and twenty years of Age , therefore I had seen the fairest Regions of Europe , France , England , the Low Countries , Germany , Switzerland , Poland , Hungary , and Italy ; and I spake indifferently well the Languages most necessary and most generally spoken .

My first sally was into England , where at that time Reigned King James ; from thence I pass'd into Flanders to see Antwerp , my Father 's Native Country , and so into the Low Countries , where my inclination to travel became the stronger , by reason of the great concourse of Strangers which I met at Amsterdam , that crouded thither from all parts of the World .

Having seen what was most considerable in the united Provinces , I pass'd into Germany , and when I came to Norimbergh , by the way of Frankfort and Auspurgh , the noise of the Armies that were marching into Bohemia to retake Prague , instill'd into me a desire to go to the Wars , where I might learn something that might be useful to me in the series of my travels . I was not above a days journey from Norimbergh , when I met a Colonel of Horse , whose name was Hans Brener , the Son of Philip Brener , Governour of Vienna , who engag'd me to follow him into Bohemia . Sometime after I bore the same Colonel company to Vienna , who presented me to the Governour of Raab , his Uncle , then Viceroy of Hungary also ; who receiv'd me into his Family as one of his Pages . For it is a usual thing in Germany for Gentlemen's Sons to serve in that quality 'till five and twenty years of age , and seldom to quit that service , 'till they have a Commission for a Cornet , or Ensigns place . Four years and a half I serv'd the Viceroy , when the Prince of Mantua came to Vienna , to engage the Emperour in certain designs of his own without success . At that time the Count of Arc , whose Sister the Viceroy had Marry'd , was chief Minister to the Prince of Mantua ; and coming to visit the Viceroy at Javarin , I was appointed to attend him during his stay there . Upon his departure , he told the Viceroy , that the Prince of Mantua had no person about him that understood the Language , and that therefore he might be sure that the Prince would take it for a great kindness , to permit me to attend his person during his stay at the Emperours Court . This was a thing easily granted to the Count of Arc ; who thereupon carry'd one along with him to Vienna , where having had the good fortune not to displease the Prince , he testify'd to me at his departure , that he should be glad to see me at Mantua , where he would not forget the services I had done him . This presently infus'd into me a desire of seeing Italy , especially upon the opportunity that offer'd it self not long after .

For Monsieur de Sabran , the King of France's Envoy to his Imperial Majesty , being to go for Venice , and desirous of one that understood the German Language to bear him Company , I laid hold of the occasion , so that in eight days we got to Venice . While we stay'd at Venice , I took a view to my great satisfaction , of that most Celebrated City , and in regard it is in many things like to Amsterdam , as in Situation , Greatness , Magnificence , Commerce , and Concourse of Strangers , my being there did but still reinforce my inclination to Travel .

From Venice I went to Mantua with Monsieur de Sabran , where the Prince being glad to see me again , gave me my choice of an Ensign , or of a place in the Company of the Ordonnance of the Duke his Father . I accepted the latter , as being glad to be under the Command of the Conde de Guiche , who was then Captain . At the Siege of Mantua I had like to have been slain , but for the goodness of a Cuirass which I had chosen out of the Princes Magazin , being hit with two Bullets above and upon the left pap , which had enter'd , had not my Arms been excellent proof : So that after I was recover'd of my Bruises , a longer stay at Mantua did not agree with my desire to travel .

Therefore some time after the Siege was rais'd , I took leave of the Prince , who gave me an honourable Pass , by vertue whereof five or six Horse-men bore me Company back to Venice . From Venice I went to Lauretta , from Lauretta to Rome , from Rome to Naples , from whence returning to Rome again , I stay'd there ten or twelve days . After that I went to see Florence , Pisa , Ligorn , and Genoa , from whence I Embark'd for Marseilles .

From Marseilles I hasted to Paris , where I could not stay long ; for being desirous to see Poland , I pass'd once more into Germany through Switzerland , after I had tak'n a survey of the principal Towns of the Cantons . I went by the Rhine by Water , to visit Strasburgh and Brisack ; thence by Land crossing Suabia , I passed through Ulme and Auspurgh to go to Munich . There I saw the Magnificent Palace of the Dukes of Bavaria , which William the fifth began , and which Maximilian his Son finish'd , in the heat of the Wars that troubl'd the Empire . From thence I went the second time to Norimbergh , and Prague , and leaving Bohemia I enter'd into Silesia , and pass'd the Oder at B●eslaw . From Breslaw I went to Cracovia , one of the greatest Cities of Europe , or rather a Town compos'd of three Cities , the ancient Seat of the King of Poland . From thence , keeping the Vistula upon the left hand , I went to Warsaw , and saw there the Court of King Sigismund , which is a noble and splendid Habitation .

From Warsaw I return'd to Breslaw , taking the Road toward the Lower Silesia , designing to visit one of the principal Officers of the Emperours Houshold , who was my particular acquaintance . But about two Leagues from Glogaw , meeting with Colonel Butler , a Scotch Gentleman , Colonel of one of the Emperours Regiments of Horse , who afterwards kill'd Walesteyne in pursuance of the Orders he receiv'd , I gave over my first intended journey . His Wife was a great lover of the French , so that being earnestly oblig'd by both together , I could not withstand the testimonies of their kindness . There I understood that the Emperour was going to Ratisbone with his Son Ferdinand the Third , to Crown him King of the Romans , so that I , who had seen the Coronations of the Kings of Hungary and Bohemia , being desirous to see the third Solemnity also , took leave of my Colonel , and hasted to Ratisbone .

At that time arriv'd to Ratisbone several Jewellers , one of which came to his end by an accident so tragical , that all the whole Court pity'd his untimely fate . He was the only Son of one of the riohest Merchants of Europe , that liv'd in Frankfort , whose Father had sent him with Jewels to sell at the Coronation . For fear of being Robb'd he had conveigh'd them before into the hands of a Jew in Ratisbone , his Correspondent , to be deliver'd to his Son at his coming . This young man arriving at Ratisbone , went to the Jew , who told him that he had receiv'd a small Casket of Jewels from his Father , which he might take away , when he pleas'd . At the same time the Jew invited the young man to drink , and carry'd him to a publick House upon the Key of the City , where they continu'd 'till about an hour after day was shut in . At this time , both going out together , the Jew led the young man through a private Street where few people pass'd by , and there having stabb'd him five or six times in the Belly with a Dagger , left him wallowing in his Blood . A while after , one of the Emperour's Trumpets going that way in the dark , stumbl'd at the Legs of the unfortunate youth , who still breath'd , and fell upon his Body . At first feeling his hands wet , he thought it had been some drunken fellow that had eas'd his stomach ; but upon second thoughts , imaging it might be some wounded person , he ran and call'd the Officers , who coming with Lanthorns , beheld the tropick spectacle of a young man weltring in his own gore . Thereupon the Officers carrying the Body to the same publick House , as being next at hand , his face was no sooner wash'd , but the Woman and Maid of the House knew him to be the same young man that had been there drinking with the Jew not long before . But as for the young man he presently expir'd , without being able to make the least discovery . However the Jew was seiz'd that evening , and being seiz'd , cofess'd the Crime . The Imperial Laws ordain , that a Jew for killing a Christian should be hung upon a Gibbet by the Heels , and that two fierce Dogs should be hung by him in the same manner , to the end , that the Dogs in their madness should tear out his Bowels . But the Jews made such presents to the Empress that the Sentence was chang'd , though the punishment was not much less rigorous . For his flesh was torn with red hot Pincers from several parts of his body , in several Streets of the City , and boyling Lead pour'd into the raw wounds ; after which he was broken alive upon the wheel , at the publick place of Execution .

Being upon my departure from Ratisbone , I met with Father Joseph , Resident there for the King of France , who knowing me in Paris , propos'd to me to go along with the Monsieur , the Abbot of Chapes , Brother of the Marshal de Aumont , and Monsieur St. Liebau , who were then intending for Constantinople , and so for Palestine . I lik'd the proposition well , and immediately put my self into the Society of those two Gentlemen , from whom I never separated 'till they departed for Syria from Constantinople .

But before we left Germany , we resolv'd to see the Court of Savony , whither we got in a few days . By the way we pass'd through Freybergh , a small City , but well worth seeing , for the beauty of the Electors Tombs , and most splendid and magnificent both for Materials and Workmanship in all Europe . From thence we went and view'd the stately Castle of Augustburgh , seated upon a high Mountain , wherein among other things there is a great Hall , adorn'd from top to bottom with nothing but Horns fasten'd to the Wall ; among the rest is the Head of a Hare with two Horns , sent the Elector by the King of Denmark for a great Rarity . In one of the Courts of the Palace stands a Tree so large in Body , and spreading out the Branches at so wide a distance , that they will cover three hundred sixty five Tables with their shade . And that which makes this Tree more wonderful is , that it is only Birch , that rarely grows to that Immensity .

Dresde is the Residence of the Elector , a little City , but a very near one , and well fortify'd ; with a Stone Bridge over the Elbe , that parts the Old and New Town . The Palace is one of the largest and fairest in Germany . But it wants a Piazza before it , the principal Gate standing just at the bottom of a narrow Lane .

From Dresde we went to Prague , which was a third time that I saw that great and fair City , or rather three Cities together , only separated by the Molda , that throws it self into the Elbe , some five or six Leagues below .

Having travers'd Bohemia , and touch'd upon the corner of Moravia , we enter'd Austria , and came to Vienna , resolving there to Embark with all speed , because the Winter came on .

We stay'd one day at Presburgh to see the great Church , and some Relicks which they shew'd us , and from thence fell down to Altenburgh .

Altenburgh is a City and Province belonging to the Count of Arach . It was the Childs part of one of the Queens of Hungary , who upon her death-bed bequeathed it to one of the Lords of her Court , upon condition that he and his Successors should always keep such a number of Peacocks ; for defect whereof , the Territory should revert to the Crown .

Thence we came to Signet , from whence I took a little Boat and hasted to Raab , where I did my Devoirs to the Viceroy , who was glad to see me , and gave noble entertainment to the Messieurs de Chapes , and de St. Liebau . Here we stay'd eight or ten days for the Basha of Buda's Answer , whether he would give liberty to two French Gentlemen , to pass with their Train through his Garrison or no ; which being return'd such as we could desire , we Embark'd at Comorra in a sort of Brigantines well fitted for defence and convenience .

From Vienna to Javarin we laid three days upon the water , by reason of the great turnings and windings of the Dunaw . Leaving Javarin we lay at Comorra ; and from Comorra we row'd to Buda in two days . For the Road by Land is seldom travell'd , in regard that the Frontiers of both Empires are full of Thieves and Boothaylers . In fair weather you may go from Bada to Belgrade in less than eight days , but we were forc'd to stay longer upon the Water , in regard of the Cold weather .

It is the custom in Hungary , that in all Roads little frequented by Strangers , not to take any Money of the Traveller ; For the Burghers lodge and entertain them civilly , for which the Burgo Master at the years end repays them out of the publick stock . But besides , that they are not troubl'd with many passengers ; Hungary , which is one of the best Countries in Europe , affords provision at so cheap a rate , that to Belgrade it costs us not above two Crowns a day for fourteen people .

Buda stands upon the right hand of the Danaw , about half an hours travelling from the River . The Basha being advis'd of our arrival , sent his Squire with led Horses , and several Slaves in very good Liveries to conduct us to the Town . And though we stay'd twelve days before we could speak with him , by reason of his being sick at that time , yet he allow'd us a fair provision of Mutton , Pullets , Rice , Butter , and Bread , and two Sequins a day for small expences . He was a comely person , and of a handsom carriage ; and at our departure , he sent six Caleshes with two Spahi's to conduct us to Belgrade , with order to defray our expences , which would by no means be accepted .

Coming to Belgrade we found the Sangiai as rude , as we had found the Basha civil before . For he made a ridiculous demand of two hundred Ducats a Head , and for fifteen days prolong'd the contest . But at length I so terrify'd him , by threatning to send our Complaints to the Ottaman Port , of his ill usage of two Gentlemen ; kinsmen to the Embassador of France , that he was contented with fifty Ducats for all . Belgrade is scituated upon a point of Land , where two great Rivers , the Danaw and the Sava meet ; and is furnish'd with Wine , Bread , and all sorts of provisions at a cheap rate .

From Belgrade we took some Saddle Horses , some Coaches for Adrianople , as every one lik'd best . We pass'd through Sophia , a large and well peopl'd City , the Metropolis of the ancient Bulgarians , and the residence of the Basha of Romeli . In it stands a fair Mosquee , which hath been a Christian Church , built with so much Art , that three men may go up to the top of the Steeple , and not see one another .

From Sophia we came to Philippoli , between which Town and Adrianople we met with two Troops of Tartars well mounted . When they saw us , they made a Lane for us to pass through them , with a design most certainly to have fall'n upon us ; since they could not hope to do any good upon us , but by surprize and number ; for they were ill provided of Weapons , and we rarely well Arm'd . Thereupon we alighted and Barricado'd up our selves with our Chariots . In the mean time we sent our Spahi's to the Commander of those Tartars , to tell them , we would not stir 'till they were gone , and that being Souldiers as they were , they could not hope for any booty from us . The Commander answer'd , that he had divided his men in that manner only to do us Honour ; but since we desir'd they should be gone , they requested us but to send them a little Tobacco . A boon which we readily granted them , and so we pass'd on .

We came to Adrianople the three and twentieth day after we parted from Belgrade . Adrianople takes its name from the Emperour Adrian , being formerly call'd Orestes . It is pleasantly situated at the mouth of three Rivers that throw themselves into the Archipelago . The old Town is not very big , but the Turks dayly enlarge the Suburbs , being a place which the Grand Signors very much delight in for the pleasures of Hunting and Hawking , especially at the wild Duck and Heron.

The fifth day after we departed from Adrianople , and the forty second after we departed from Vienna , we happily arriv'd at Constantinople , and crossing through the City over to Galata , went to the Ambassador's House . While we stay'd there to winter , we made a small Voyage to the Dardanells , to the Ruins of Troy , where we beheld nothing but Stones , not worth the while of going so far to see . Another day we took three Barks and Sail'd to Calcedon , that lies upon the Sea . There is in it a very ancient Church ; and they shew'd us the Room where the Council was held , with the same Chairs which were then made use of . Now it is only a Monastery , where two Bishops after they had shew'd us what they could , handsomly entertain'd us .

Then we went to view Pompey's Pillar at the mouth of the Black Sea . Concerning the Channel of which Sea , I must make one Observation ; that though there be no part of the Sea but has one Current , yet this has two quite contrary one to another . That part next to Europe carries the Vessel to the Black Sea ; and that next Asia brings it back again to the Mediterranean . So that you have no more to do but to cross over from one Shore to the other .

The Winter being over , the two French Gentlemen pursu'd their Voyage for Alexandretta . But for my part , I having another design in my head , stay'd at Constantinople , in expectation of a Caravan , which the people told me from Month to Month was coming . I was then ignorant , and did not understand that every year there were five or six Caravans that went from Bursa . Besides , that sometimes eight or ten Merchants travelling together , might go safe to Ispahan . Which ignorance of mine made me stay longer than I intended . At length , after I had continu'd eleven Months in Constantinople , I departed with a fair and numerous Caravan for Ispahan , which was the first time I travell'd into Asia . After that I made five others , wherein I had time better to understand the Qualities of the Countries , and the Genius of the People . The three last times I went beyond Gauges , to the Island of Java ; so that for the space of forty years , I have travell'd above sixty thousand Leagues by Land ; never returning but once into Europe by Sea . And thus in my six Voyages , and by travelling different Roads , I had the leisure and opportunity to see all Turky , all Persia , and all India ; particularly the famous Diamond Mines , where no European had been before me . Of these three great Empires therefore have I resolv'd to make an ample and exact Description : and I will begin with the several Roads which may be taken from Paris into Persia.