IN the beginning of this year , at my departure from Persia , I writ last to you from aboard the Ship call'd the Whale , in which I was newly embarqu'd upon the coasts of that Country , and had not yet begun my Voyage . Since which time having sail'd over a good part of the Ocean , arriv'd at the famous Countries of India , travell'd and view'd no inconsiderable portion thereof ; by conveniency of the same Ship which brought me hither , and is ready to set sail speedily towards Muchà in the Arabian Gulph , ( and the rather for that a German Gentleman a friend of mine is embarqu'd in her , with an intention to travel from thence , in case he can get passage , to see Aethiopia ; ) with this Letter ( which I recommend to him to get transmitted into Italy , if possible , from those Ports of the Red Sea , or by the way of Cairo , where they trade , or by some other conveyance ) I come again to give you an Account of my Adventures , and the Curiosities which have hitherto afforded delicious repast to my alwayes hungry Intellect . To begin therefore : Upon Thursday the 19 of January , having dispatch'd and taken order for what was needful , a little before day , after the discharge of some Guns , as 't is the custome at going off from any Coast , we began leisurely to display our sails , moving but slowly , because we waited for the ship-boat which was still at shore ; upon whose return we unfolded all our Canvase , and though with a small gale , directed our course between the Islands of Ormuz and Kesom , passing on the outer side of Ormuz next Arabia , in regard the shallowness of the Channel towards Persia afforded not water enough for such great Ships as ours . We were in company only two English Ships , namely , the Whale , which was the Captain-ship , ( in which I was embarqu'd ) commanded by Captain Nicholas Woodcock , and another call'd the Dolphin , which had for Captain , Master Matthew Willis . At noon , being near Lareck , and no wind stirring , we cast Anchor without falling our sails , and our Captain sent his long boat a shore to Lareck , with two Grey-hounds which the English of Combrù had given him , to catch what game they could light upon . Towards night we set sail again ; but though the wind somewhat increas'd , yet because the boat was not return'd we struck sail a little , and staid for it , discharging also several musket-shots , to the end those that were in it might hear and see where we were : And because 't was one a clock in the night , and the Boat was not yet come , we doubted some disaster might have befaln it , in regard of the multitude of those Arabian Thieves call'd Nouteks , which rob upon that Sea , and frequently reside in this Island of Lareck : Yet at length it return'd safe and sound , and brought us abundance of Goats ; whereupon we again spread our sails freely to the wind , which was pretty stiff , although not much favourable to our course . However , we went onwards , plying from the coast of Arabia to that of Persia ; and on Saturday morning , as we drew near the Arabian shore , we saw three small Islands , situate near one another , and not far from a certain Cape , the name of which , and the Islands , they could not tell me , so as that I might set it down truly ; whereby I perceiv'd how it comes to pass that many names of places in these parts are very corruptly written in Geographical Charts ; for in the Countries themselves , where commerce is had for the most part with rude and ignorant people , few of them know how to pronounce the same aright . On Sunday we went from our Ship to recreate our selves in the Dolphin , our companion , where the Captain entertain'd us liberally all day . In the mean time we had a good fresh gale , and sailing directly in the middle of the gulf , we beheld both the coasts of Arabia Felix and Persia ; and in the latter discern'd a famous white Rock , which standing in the midst of a low sandy shore , looks like a little hill made by hand . We pass'd the Cape , which they call in Persian Combarick , that is , small sand ; and the next night we left behind us the point or peak of Giasck . On Monday , the Sea being calm , the Captain and I were standing upon the deck of our ship , discoursing of sundry matters ▪ and he took occasion to shew me a piece of a Horn which he told me himself had found in the year 1611. in a Northern Country , whither he then sail'd , which they call Greenland , lying in the latitude of seventy six degrees . He related how he found this horn in the earth , being probably the horn of some Animal dead there ; and that when it was intire it was between five and six feet long , and seven inches in circumference at the root , where it was thickest . The piece which I saw ( for the horn was broken , and sold by pieces in several places ) was something more then half a span long , and little less then five inches thick ; the colour of it was white , inclining to yellow , like that of Ivory when it is old ; it was hollow and smooth within , but wreath'd on the outside . The Captain saw not the Animal , nor knew whether it were of the land or the sea ; for according to the place where he found it , it might be as well one as the other : but he believ'd , for certain , that it was of a Unicorn ; both because the experience of its being good against poyson argu'd so much , and for that the signes attributed by Authors to the Unicorn's horn agreed also to this , as he conceiv'd . But herein I dissent from him ; inasmuch as , if I remember aright , the horn of the Unicorn , whom the Greeks call'd Monoceros , is by Pliny describ'd black , and not white . The Captain added that it was a report , that Unicorns are found in certain Northern parts of America , not far from that Country of Greenland ; and so not unlikely but that there might be some also in Greenland , a neighbouring Country , and not yet known whether it be Continent or Island ; and that they might sometimes come thither from the contiguous lands of America , in case it be no Island . This Country of Greenland is of late discovery ; and the first Christian that discover'd it , or went thither , was this Captain Woodcock , in the year above-mention'd ; and he gave it the name of Greenland upon this account , because whereas the other Northern Countries thereabouts are destitute of grass , ( whence the white Bears and Wolves which inhabit them live upon dead Whales and other like things ) he found this green and full of Grass , although it be always cover'd over with Snow ; so that when the Animals there mind to feed , they hollow the snow with their feet , and easily find the grass which is kept continually fresh under the same . The English now yearly sail thither , where they take abundance of Whales ; and some so vast , that when they open the mouth , the wideness is above three Geometrical paces , or fifteen foot over . Of these Whales the English make Oyle , drawing it onely out of the fat of their paunch ; and they make such plenty , that out of one single Whale , they say , they often get 19 , 20 , and 21 , Tun of Oyl . This Greenland , by what Captain Woodcock saw , who discover'd it , from the end of seventy six degrees , to seventy eight and a half , ( the cold not suffering him to go further ) was un-inhabited ; he not having found any person there but only wild beasts of many sorts . The Company of the Greenland Merchants of England had the horn which he found , because Captains of ships are their stipendiaries , and , besides their salary , must make no other profit of their Voyages ; but what ever they gain or find , in case it be known , and they conceal it not , all accrues to the Company that employes them . When the Horn was intire , it was sent to Constantinople to be sold , where two thousand pounds Sterling was offer'd for it : But the English Company hoping to get a greater rate sold it not at Constantinople , but sent it into Muscovy , where much about the same price was bidden for it ; which being refus'd , it was carry'd back into Turkey , and fell of its value ; a much less sum being now proffer'd then before . Hereupon the Company conceiv'd , that it would sell more easily in pieces , then intire ; because few could be found who would purchase it at so great a rate . Accordingly they broke it , and it was sold by pieces in sundry places ; yet for all this , the whole proceed amounted onely to about twelve hundred pounds Sterling . And of these pieces they gave one to the Captain who found it , and this was it which he shew'd me .

On the 25. of January , sailing in the main Sea with the prow of the Ship South East and by East ; and , as I conceive , at a good distance from the Country of Macran , ( which I conjecture to be part either of the ancient Caramania , or else of Gedrosia , and at this day having a Prince of its own , lyes upon the Sea Coast between the States of the Persian and those of the Moghol ) we discern'd behind us three or four Ships which seem'd to be Frigots or Galliots , but towards Evening we lost sight of them . The same day , and the other before , began to be seen in the Sea abundance of certain things , which I took to be Snakes , or at least fishes in the form of Snakes , being exactly of the form of large Eeles , long and round , and according to the motion of the water seem'd crooked as they floated along the Sea . Nevertheless demanding of intelligent persons what they were , I understood that they were neither those Animals , nor yet living things , but onely a kind of excrement of the Sea in that shape , void of all motion , saving what the agitated water gave it ; although by reason of the motion of the ship they seem'd to move contrary to us , whilst we saw them left behind . And they told me , that the nearer we came to India , we should see more of these things . The next Evening , our Captain , who was a little more merry then ordinary , ( because , the Captain of the Dolphin dining with us that day , he had drank pretty freely in conversation ) discoursing with me , as he was wont , after Supper , spoke very frankly to me concerning their affairs of Ormuz : In conclusion he told me , that their Treaty with the Persians stood thus ; That if they would deliver to the English the Fortress of Ormuz , with half the revenues of the Custom-house and the City , as they desir'd from the beginning ; then the English would people Ormuz , and restore the trade as formerly , keeping the same continually open with Persia ; and that for this purpose , and also for guarding that Sea against the Portugals and other Enemies , they would keep four ships in Ormuz . That when this were agreed upon , the English would transport a good number of people from England , and whole Families with Wives and Children , to dwell in Ormuz , as the Portugals did before : and then they would prosecute the War against the Portugals at Machat , and every where else . But if these things were not agreed to , they would make War no longer against the Portugals ; nor car'd they for the Traffick of Persia upon other terms . Now should these Treaties take effect , they would in no wise be advantagious for the Catholick Religion ; and were there no more to be fear'd , the Portugals would thereby be for ever excluded from recovering Ormuz ; yea , all the rest which they possess in those parts would be in great danger . Imanculi Beig , who was General of the Persians in the late Wars , and with whom the English treated in Combrù concerning this affair , Captain Woodcock said , he inclin'd to the bargain ; but it was not known what the Chan of Sciraz , and ( which is more important ) the King would do . On one side , I know , the Persians insisted much upon having Ormuz wholly to themselves ; accounting it a small matter to have gain'd , with so much War , and loss of men , onely the half , or rather less then half , the Fortress being deducted which the English demanded for themselves ; so that the Persians would have but the same interest there as the King of Ormuz had with the Portugals , and no more . They conceive also , that they have done little , and perhaps ill , should they make no greater acquisition , in having onely chang'd the Portugals in Ormuz for the English , and Christians for Christians ; that upon easier terms it might be hop'd , that perhaps the Portugals , after the loss of Ormuz , would agree with the Persians , now there was no more to lose , and onely give the Persians that which the King of Ormuz , a Mahometan like themselves , injoy'd . Moreover , to the Persian , no doubt , the friendship of the Portugals would be more profitable , in regard of the many States which they possess in India , from whence they may with more facility and certainty maintain the accustomed Commerce with Persia. But , on the other side , to see the Portugals so worsted , and the English more fortunate , at least , and couragious , if not more strong , 't is a clear case that Ormuz will never be reinhabited , nor Trade set on foot again , unless some Nation of the Franks , which have ships and strength at sea , reside there ( things which the Persians wholly want , there being neither Mariners nor Timber in Persia , about that Sea , to build ships ) and the loss resulting to Persia by the extinguishtinguishing of this Traffick , the charge of maintaining the Fortress of Ormuz without any profit , and the continual danger of losing it every hour , unless the English guard the Sea with their ships and help to defend it ; these and other like considerations may not improbably induce the King of Persia ( contented to have demonstrated his power and valor , and chastis'd his Enemies , the Portugals , according to his desire ) to grant the English as much as they demand : For he should not yield it to them upon force , but out of his liberality ; and for his own profit give them that freely , which to retain to himself , as things now stand , would not onely be of no advantage , but of loss . Peradventure he may also imagine now , in the pride of his victory , that as with help of the English he has driven the Portugals out of Ormuz ; so 't will be easie for him to expel the English too , either by the help of others , or else by his own Forces alone , should they not comply with him . However , because these Treaties with the Persian are manag'd by the Company , of Merchants who also made the War , and not by the King of England ; and hitherto 't is not known , whether their King approve the fact or no , and will prosecute or let fall the enterprize ; therefore , for a total conclusion , besides the consent of the King of Persia , they also wait the determination of the King of England ; and the greatest hope I have of the defeating of these projects so prejudicial to the Catholicks , is this alone , that the English King will not meddle in them , and , perhaps also , prohibit his Subjects so to do ; as a person whom we know to be a Friend to Peace , most averse from all kind of War , especially with the King of Spain , while the Match of his Son with the Daughter of Spain is in agitation .

In the mean time we began to find the Sea sufficiently rough , being got wholly out of the Persian Gulph , and enter'd into the open Sea , ( term'd by the Ancients Mare rubrum , and by us at this day the Southern Ocean ) and having pass'd not onely the Cape of Giasck , but also that of Arabia , which the Portugals vulgarly call Rosalgate , as it is also set down in the Maps ; but properly ought to be call'd Ras el had , which in the Arabian Tongue signifies Capo del fine , or the Cape of the Confine , because 't is the last of that Country , and is further then any other extended into the Sea ; like that of Galicia in our Europe , which for the same reason we call Finis Terrae . On Saturday , the 28. of January , having taken the meridional altitude of the Sun , according to daily custom , and made such detraction of degrees as was necessary , we found our selves twenty three degrees five minutes distant from the Equinoctial towards the North : whence by consequence we had pass'd the Tropick of Cancer twenty six minutes and a half , according to the opinion of the Moderns , who reckon the Sun 's greatest declination where the Tropicks are , twenty three degrees thirty one minutes and a half distant from the Equinoctial . During the succeeding dayes we sail'd with a brisk but favourable wind , and with a Sea not tempestuous but something rough . Every day about the hour of noon the Sun's altitude was infallibly observ'd , not onely by the Pilots , as the custom is in all ships , and the Captain , ( who was a good Seaman , and perform'd all the exercises of Art very well ) but ( which pleas'd me most , and which I thought worthy of great praise and imitation ) there was no day , but at that hour twenty or thirty mariners , masters , boys , young men , and of all sorts came upon the deck to make the same observation ; some with Astrolabes , others with Cross-staffs , and others with several other instruments , particularly with one which they told me was lately invented by one David , and from his name call'd David's - staff . This Instrument consists of two Triangles united together , one longer then the other , both having their base arch'd , and between them in the circle of their bases containing an intire quadrant of ninty degrees . But whereas the shortest Triangle , whose Angles are less acute , contains sixty degrees divided by tens ( according to custom ) in the circle of its base , which are two thirds of a quadrant ; the other longer and of acuter Angles , which extends much backward , and opens in a wider circle at the base , comprehends no more then thirty , which make the remainder of the quadrant ; so that the longer Triangle contains fewer degrees by half then the shorter ; and he that would have the degrees larger for the better subdividing them into minutes , may make the circle or base of the lesser Triangle take up seventy degrees , and so there will remain to the longer no more then twenty for the complement of the quadrant . According to this distribution , the degrees in the longer Triangle will come to be so large , as to be capable of the smallest division of minutes ; a thing very important . Besides , it hath two Fanes or Sights , in each Triangle one , which are to be mov'd backward and forward ; and with these , that is , with that of the long Triangle , the level of the Horizon is taken ; and with the other of the short Triangle , that of the Sun ; with this further conveniency , that the Sights being sufficiently large , are therefore very expedient for performing the operation with speed , notwithstanding the dancing of the ship when the Sea is rough ; in which case , if the Sights be too small , 't is hard to make any observation . With this Instrument , and several others , many of the English perform'd their operations every day ; such as knew not how to do them well , were instructed ; and if any one err'd in computation or otherwise , his error was shew'd him , and the reason told him , that so he might be train'd to work exactly : The opinion of the skilful was heard , and taken notice of ; and at length all the observations being compar'd together , the Pilot and the Captain resolv'd , and with mature counsel determin'd of all ; by which means their voyages are very well manag'd , and almost always succeed prosperously to them . In the Portugal ships I hear the contrary comes to pass ; because the Pilots being extremely jealous of their affairs ( an habitual humour of that Nation ) will be alone to make their observations , and for the most part perform them in secret , without any Associate to see them : Should any other person in the ship offer to take the altitude of the Sun , or look upon the Map or Compass , or do any thing that relates to the well guiding of the Vessel , and knowing its course , they would quarrel with him , and by no means suffer him to do it ; being averse that any other should meddle with what they say is their office and belongs to them alone . From their being so little communicative , and very averse to teach others , it happens that few amongst them understand any thing of the Art of Navigation , there being none that will teach it experimentally ; and they understand little enough , because they have no conference about the practical part , and learn much less of the Theory . This is the reason that their ships frequently miscarry , to the incredible detriment both of particular persons and of the Kingdom : And which is worse , 't is said that not onely many of them are lost through the ignorance or negligence of those that guide them , but also sometime by malice : For the Portugal Pilots have got a custom when they are to make a Voyage , to take up great sums of money at Lisbon upon interest , the most they can get to trade withall ; and they take the same by way of Venture upon the ships which they guide : Now when by the way any small disaster befalls them , they not onely avoid it not , as many times they might do , but , if they be of evil intention , they cunningly run the ships aground either in these Coasts of Africa or elsewhere ; so that though oftentimes the people , and also the arms , goods , especially of the greatest value be sav'd , yet so it is , that sometimes many perish or suffer excessive loss ; and this onely to the end , that the shipwrack may be the occasion of their remaining gainers of the monies taken up at interest upon the hazard aforesaid ; which monies they carry not with them to trade withall , but leave all at home in Portugal : A practice indeed very pernicious , and which ought to be most rigorously punish'd : but the Portugals have now no King in their Country to mind their affairs , and the government depends upon Madrid , where perhaps they that administer it , being more intent upon their private interests then the publick , these and infinite other disorders pass unredress'd . The English , on the contrary , and other Europaeans which sail upon the Ocean , are most diligent and strict observers of all exact discipline , and of what concernes the good conduct of their ships ; and because they well understand all the most exquisite points of Navigation , and are extremely curious , as well in the Practice as in the Theory , they spare no pains , and neglect not the doing of any thing whereby they may render their Navigations in all places more easie and secure : Insomuch that Captain Woodcock , upon occasion of his having staid a year and odd moneths with his ship in the Persian Gulph , shew'd me a Chart or Plat-form of the whole Streight of Ormuz , made by himself during that time with the highest exactness ; for he had not onely taken the most just measures and distances of all the adjacent places , but also sounded all the Coast with a plummet , to find all the convenient places where great ships , such as theirs , might ride and cast anchor when occasion should require .

On the Third of February , conceiving by our reckoning that we were near India , in the Evening we let down the plummet into the Sea , as we us'd often to do , and found it not above seventeen fathom ; whereby 't was concluded , that we were little more then six leagues distant from land , although by reason of the darkness of the Air none could be yet discern'd ; because that precise depth of water uses to be found in those Seas at that distance from land . The Captain , who by well observing the Sun and the Winds , had every day diligently noted the ships way in the Map , as the custom is , hop'd that we might be near the City of Daman , which lies within the Gulph of Cambaia , on the right hand as you enter into it , a good way inwards ; but I , without having so much minded the Maps , said , that I conceiv'd we were much lower , and more without the Gulph towards Bassain ; because although we had always sail'd and kept the ships prow directed to Daman by the shortest line , yet for the two or three last dayes we had had the Wind for that place contrary ; which although it hinder'd us not from holding our course , because we help'd our selves with the rudder , and siding of the sails , yet the violence of the Wind must needs have continually driven the ship something lower then we intended . Two hours after midnight , the current of the Gulph of Cambaia being contrary , against which , by reason of its impetuosness , there is no sailing for a while , but the ship must stay either for the turning of it , ( which is known when it will happen , because it regularly changes according to the hours and days of the Moon ) or for a strong Wind wherewith to master the current ; for this reason , and also that the day-light might resolve us in what place we were , we cast anchor , and struk sail , to wait for a more fitting time . The Sea in this place began to be very rough , which happens by reason of the strong current which it hath . The next Morning we discern'd land afar off , and , according to my conjecture , it appear'd that we were lower , that is , more to the South of Daman about twelve leagues , in a place a little distant from Bassain , which the English call Terra di San Giovanni , but in the Sea-Chart is noted in the Portugal Tongue with the name of Ilhas das vaccas , or the Islands of Cows . About one a clock in the Afternoon , the Tide being become less contrary , we set sail again by degrees , approaching still nearer the shore of India . But a little before Night the current turning against us , we were constrain'd to cast anchor once more ; nevertheless after midnight it became favourable again , and we sail'd onwards by degrees till day . This slow course through the Gulph of Cambaia , with the plummet always in hand , and sounding every hour , it was requisite for us to hold , because the place is dangerous , in regard of the many shelves or quick-sands which are in it , and especially because the current , which turns every six hours , now setting one way , and anon the other , causes great hindrance . By reason of which shelves , from the time of our entrance into the Gulph , we did not guide the ship directly towards Suràt , which no doubt would have been the shortest way by a strait line , but keeping lower towards Daman , fetch'd a large compass to the South , tacking about afterwards to the North when we were near land , onely to avoid the many shelves and shallows , through which our great ships could not pass . On Sunday , the the fifth of February , being at anchor in the Morning , we discover'd near the land , which was not very far from us , ten or fifteen Frigots or Galliots sailing Eastwards ; which probably were either Portugal or Indian Merchants of some Cafila , ( as they call a Fleet or Consort of ships ) coming from Cambaia to go to Goa , or some other place thereabouts . The night following , we heard the report of Artillery , which we conceiv'd to come from the City of Daman , being the place nearest us . Wednesday night after , the Wind blew somewhat hard against us , in regard whereof , and the strength of the current which carry'd us in that narrow channel amongst shelves and quick-sands , we sail'd for a good while very circumspectly , and not without some danger . On Thursday we stood right against the mouth of the River of Suràt , which City is not situate upon the shore , but some leagues within land : And because there is no station there for great ships , we continued sailing Northwards to the place where is the Port most frequented by the ships of Europe ; which though the best of all that Coast , yet the Vessels of that Country , not knowing so well how to steer , make not much use of it , because the entrance is a little difficult . On Fryday the tenth of February , in the Afternoon , the favour of the current failing us , we cast anchor in sight of the Port of Suràt at a little distance ; and our boat going a shore , the President of the English Merchants ( who uses to reside in Suràt , and is superintendent of all their Trade in East-India , Persia , with the other places depending on the same , is now one Mr. Thomas Rastel ) perceiving our ships near , and being at that time at the Sea-side near the landing place , came in our boat to the ships , together with one of their Ministers , ( so they call those who exercise the office of Priests ) and two other Merchants ; and after a collation and a supper lodg'd with us all night . He spoke Italian very well , and made me many civil offers and complements ; shewing himself in all things a a person sufficiently accomplish'd , and of generous deportment , according as his gentile and graceful aspect bespoke him . He inform'd me , that Sigr Alberto di Scilling , a German Gentleman , known to me in Persia , having return'd from the Court of the Moghol , and other parts of India , which he had travell'd to see , was at that time in Surat , from whence he was gone to see the City of Barocci hard by , and would return speedily : with which intelligence I was much pleas'd , because Sig: Alberto was my great friend , and I extremely desir'd to see him . On Saturday Morning we convers'd together for some time , drinking a little of hot wine boyl'd with Cloves , Cinnamon , and other spices , which the English call burnt wine , and use to drink frequently in the Morning to comfort the stomack , sipping it by little and little for fear of scalding , as they do Cahue , ( Coffee ) by me elsewhere describ'd . And they use it particularly in the Winter to warm themselves ; though in India 't is not necessary for that end , because albeit 't was still Winter , according to our division of the seasons , yet we had more heat there then cold . After this short refection , the President return'd a shore , and I remain'd in the ship , not expecting to disimbarque till we were got into the Harbour , which was a little before night , and the anchors were cast very near the land : but because 't was now late , and the City of Surat was a good distance off , none of us car'd to land . Nor did I go out of the ship on Sunday , both because it was a sacred day , and because our Captain was pleas'd to give an Entertainment to us and the Captain of the Dolphin , our companion in the voyage . Monday , the thirteenth of the same moneth , was the day of my Ague , whereof I had had divers fits by the way at sea ; nevertheless , after a collation I went on shore , together with the Captain of our ship , where we continu'd under certain tents pitch'd for convenience of the Tonnellers , ( so the English term certain of their Mariners imploy'd to fill the Casks with water ) in expectation of Coaches to carry us to Surat ; there being in those Countries subject to the Moghol , abundance of Coaches made after their fashion , which I formerly describ'd when I saw some of them at Casbin , which the Indian Ambassador gave , amongst his presents , to the King of Persia ; nor remains any thing more to be said of them , but that they are at this day much like the ancient Indian Chariots , describ'd by Strabo , and are generally cover'd with crimson silk , Lib. 15. fring'd with yellow round about the roof and the curtains : And that the Oxen , which also as anciently draw the same , are fair , large , white , with two bunches like those of some Camells , and run and gallop like Horses ; they are likewise cover'd with the same stuff , but beset with many tufts or tassels , and abundance of bells at their necks ; so that when they run or gallop through the streets they are heard at a sufficient distance , and make a very brave show . With these kind of Coaches in India , they not onely go in Cities , but also for the most part travel in the Country . To the Sea side came no Coach , and therefore the Captain went on foot to a Town a mile off , call'd Sohali , where he intended to spend the day in recreating himself amongst the Franks , who have Houses there for repositing the goods which they continually send to the Sea side to be ship'd : but I could not accompany him , because of my Ague , and therefore staid in a Tent , well cover'd with Clothes upon my bed , which I caus'd to be laid upon the ground , waiting till the Captain sent me a Coach , and Carts from the City for my goods . Whilst I was lying in this place , the violence of my fit was scarce over , when I beheld a Cavalier appear on the shore on Horse-back , cloth'd and arm'd after the Indian manner with a Scemiter and Target , who came towards our Tent , and stood still to speak with some person , as if he inquir'd for something among us : Upon his nearer approach , and my better considering him , I perceiv'd 't was my great friend Sig: Alberto di Scilling , who being return'd from Barocci , whither the President had told me he was gone , and hearing news of us , was come from Surat to the Sea side to meet me . Whereupon , raising my self suddenly from the bed , we received one the other with such kindnesses as are usual between two good friends , who come from far , and have not seen one another a long time ; after which sitting down together , we recounted our adventures one to the other at length , he much condoling my misfortunes , and regretting to find me sufficiently different from what he had left me in Persia. Towards Evening came two Coaches and a Carr , with which we went together to the Town Sohali , where we found the two Captains of the ships waiting for us with a Collation ready prepar'd , which immediately they gave us , entertaining us in conversation till night ; and certain Indian Women of the Town , publick dancers , gave us some pastime by dancing to the sound of Drums , Bells , and other instruments of their fashion , which were sounded by their Husbands with very great noise , and not without disturbance of my head . A little within night the Captains took leave of us , and returned to their ships , and we betook our selves to rest the remainder of the night in this Town , because it was necessary to stay till day before we could enter into Surat , the Gates of the City being shut in the night time , at least that of the Dogana , or Custom-house , through which we were to pass . They told us the way to the City was seven Cos , or Corù , ( for 't is all one ) and every Cos or Corù is half a Fersegna , or league of Persia ; so that it answers to little less then two English Miles .

The next Morning very early we put our selves on the way towards Surat , and being I conceiv'd my abode there would be but short , and that when I should depart thence my way would be by Sea ; therefore to avoid greater trouble , both of conveyance and of the Dogana , or Custom-house , which is known to be rigorous in Surat , I left all my Trunks and gross luggage in the ship , and carry'd with me onely such few things as were requisite for daily use . The high-way from the Sea side to the City , ( as 't is also generally in this province of Guzarat , wherein we were ) is all very even ; the soil green all the year , and about the Town Sohali grow abundance of Trees of Indian Nuts , Tamarinds , and other fruits . Beyond the Town the Trees are not so plentiful , unless near certain houses ; but the fields are every where either ploughed , or full of living creatures feeding in them . We arriv'd at the City in good time , in the entrance of which there is a River call'd Tapì , or Taptì , which was to be pass'd over by boat : On the other side of which River , something on the right hand as you go into the City , which hath no walls , stands a Castle lately built , but very ill design'd . Moreover , near the place where the boats land stands the Dogana , or Custom-house , and it took us up some time to dispatch there , because they observe very narrowly all goods that are brought in , ( although they be but Clothes for change ) to see whether there be any thing coming to the Customes ; nor will they suffer strangers to enter till they be first known and have licence , as 't is also practis'd in Venice . In all things they proceed with so great wariness and good order , that it being known that I conducted with me the Sigra Mariuccia , although a girl very young , the Capo , or President of the Dogana , requir'd likewise to be inform'd of her quality , and gave order that she should not be conducted with any violence or other disorder : otherwise , in lawful things , there is no difficulty , either through diversity of Religion , or upon any other account . We were no sooner come to the Dogana , but the news of our arrival was , I think , by Sig: Alberto's means , carried to the House of the Dutch , many of which have Wives there which they married in India , purposely to go with them and people a new colony of theirs in Java Major , which they call Batavia Nova ; where very great priviledges are granted to such of their Country-men as shall go to live there with Wives and Families : For which end , many of them , for want of Europaean , have taken Indian , Armenian , and Syrian Women , and of any other race that falls into their hands , so they be or can be made Christians . Last year the Fleet of the Portugals which went to India was encountred at Sea , and partly sunk , partly taken by the Hollanders ; amongst other booty , three Maidens were taken , of those poor but well descended Orphans which are wont to be sent from Portugal every year at the King's charge , with a dowry which the King gives them , to the end they may be married in India , in order to further the peopling of the Portugal Colonies in those parts . These three Virgins falling into the hands of the Hollanders , and being carry'd to Suràt , which is the principal seat of all their traffick , the most eminent Merchants amongst them strove who should marry them , being all passably handsome . Two of them were gone from Suràt , whether to the abovesaid Colony , or elsewhere , I know not . She that remain'd behind was call'd Donna Lucia , a young Woman , fair enough , and Wife to one of the wealthiest and eminentest Hollanders . The President of the Hollanders call'd by them the Commendator , who resides in Suràt , and has the general superintendency of their affairs in all these parts of the East , is at this time Sig: Pietro Vandenbroecke , a Gentleman of good breeding , and very courteous ; he speaks no Italian , but Spanish very well , as being born at Antwerp : He lives in a goodly Palace , which hath many distinct apartments , with several entrances into a Court , like so many different houses , onely included within the same wall , which is entred into by one great Gate : Here the Commendator holds the best and largest apartment to himself ; in the rest lodge some of their gravest Merchants , which are of the Council for management of affairs , in order to their better conveniency and union , besides many others of inferior condition , which live out of this great inclosure , dispers'd elsewhere in the City , and when occasion requires , they all repair to the Palace of the Commendator . Amongst those whose habitation was in the Palace of the Commendator , Donna Lucia's Husband has one of the principal , where he lives with his family and and Wife , whom , according to the custom of India , he maintains with much splendor and gallantry . Now upon their knowledge of our arrival , Donna Lucia presently sent her coach to bring Sig: Mariuccia to her house , for her better accommodation with her , till we had setled out business , and provided lodgings . I was well pleas'd with the motion , because till I had well accommodated my self with a place of residence , the Sig: Mariuccia could not be better dispos'd of then with this Portugal Gentlewoman , who is a Christian , and withal secretly a Catholick , with the privity and connivance of her Husband , although in publick she makes a virtue of necessity , and in appearance conformes to the unhappy mode of that Nation , into whose power the fortune of war and the disaster of her Country-men hath brought her . Sig: Alberto Scilling , had , before we came from the Sea-side , importun'd me in the name of the Commendator to lodge at his house ; which favour I much thank'd him for , and handsomely declin'd , not thinking fit to accept it , because I had receiv'd and wav'd the like invitation made to me before by the English President , who thought me the more oblig'd to comply with his offer , because I came in their Ships : But I excus'd my self both to the Commendator and the President ; partly , because I was desirous to be at liberty by my self , and partly , for that it was requisite for Sig: Mariuccia to be amongst Women , of which there was none in the English House . Being got quit of the Custom-house , I went to see for a House ; and because I was a new comer , and and had no servant that knew the City , I referr'd my self to the direction of Sig: Alberto , who took this care upon himself , and soon after told me he had sent to get one prepar'd and put in good order ; But by what I found afterwards , he had contriv'd with the Dutch Commendator onely to delude me ; for as he was carrying me to the place where he pretended to have taken a House for me , he made me pass by the Palace of the Hollanders , out of the Gate whereof a Gentleman belonging to the Commendator step'd forth , and invited me in his name to alight from my Horse , and at least stay and dine with him that day , the rather because Sigra Mariuccia was there ; telling me that it was not convenient for me wait in the streets undecently and tediously , whilst a House was preparing for me elsewhere , which could not be done so speedily . Notwithstanding which reasons , I endeavour'd all that possibly I could to decline this invitation , out of respect to the English President , and with affectionate thanks desir'd the Gentleman to excuse me to the Sigr Commendator , straining my self to correspond to his courtesie with the best Complements I had : But this avail'd me little ; for as I was hastening to break off the discourse and be gone , the Commendator himself came forth into the street half undress'd as he was in the house , and taking hold of my Horse's bridle , told me that he would by no means suffer me to go any where else now it was late without certain quarters ; at least , I must needs stay and dine with him that day . Beholding him thus on foot before me , I alighted in civility from my Horse , and with the best words I could , endeavour'd to get quit from the courteous violence which he us'd to me : But there was no remedy ; he held me prisoner , as I may say , and I was fain to stay dinner with him as he desir'd . Moreover , when night came , being I was resolv'd to lodge in another House of mine own , under pretext that none could be got though sought for all day , ( wherein I know not whether Sigr Alberto deluded me too ) I was forc'd to accept of a large House from the Commendator which he had taken for himself , before his late removal to that great Palace wherein he liv'd with the rest of his Country-men ; which former House remaining empty at his charge and disposal , I was by his great importunity oblig'd to accept : Wherefore I went to lodge there this night , and for the conveniency of Sigra Mariuccia , they sent thither one of their Wives , a young Christian Woman of Armenian race , though born in India , with some other women-servants . Now lest the English President should take this ill , I purpos'd to prevent him with terms of courtesie ; and the next Morning after a short , and the last fit of my Tertian , I went to give him a visit , and make my excuses to him by representing to him the reasons of what had pass'd with the Hollanders , without any voluntary fault of mine : But upon my enquiry at his House , and sending my message to him , I was answer'd that he was not at home , although we perceiv'd by certain signes that he was , but fairly declin'd to receive my visit . Wherefore understanding afterwards that he was much incens'd not onely against me , but also against the Holland Commendator , conceiving that he had unhandsomely stolne and usurp'd me from him , ( as he said ) in regard of the interest he had in us , upon the account of our being brought thither in their ships ; and that he had a more particular displeasure against Sigr Alberto , knowing him to have been the principal occasion of all , I thought it expedient to appease him by all means , and upon what ever terms of satisfaction : Nevertheless I did not judge it meet to venture another repulse by going to visit him , but sent him a Letter in justification of my self , with all the civil expressions I could devise . At first he was something backward to receive it , doubting perchance that I had written angerly to him , in regard of my preceding visit : yet at length , upon the request of some mediators whom I made use of , he took it , read it , and remain'd very well satisfied with my proceedings , in which there was nothing but gentleness . The Commendator likewise , being one of an excellent nature , us'd all means he could to give the President satisfaction , and to shew him that what he had done with us was to no ill end ; he went purposely to visit him , carrying Sig: Alberto with him , to the end he might justifie himself too : both of them intreated , and both of them took the blame upon themselves ; in fine , so much was done and said that the President was reconcil'd with all . And because it was insisted on my behalf that he would admit a visit from me , he consented upon this condition , that this first time should not be simply my visit but his invitation , which accordingly he made to us to come all together that night to supper with him , where he treated us very splendidly , and every thing ended in jollity and friendship as at first . And all the while that I stay'd at Suràt , he oblig'd me continually with sundry demonstrations of his affection ; particularly , by often sending his own Coach to me , with his Interpreter , who is an Armenian Christian , and a Catholick , call'd Scander , Brother to F. Agostino Bagiezzi of Alingia , a Dominican , my acquaintance in Persia : which Interpreter being skill'd in the Country , and conversing with me in the Persian Tongue , carry'd me frequently abroad to see sundry things . As for the Hollanders , the caresses and civilities which they have done , and still continue to me , are so numerous , that I shall have them in remembrance as long as I live . But 't is time now to speak a little of this City , and the curiosities which here and elsewhere I have lately seen .