A
General
Description
of
Egypt
.
C
Ham
,
one
of
the
three
Sons
of
Noah
,
had
four
Children
Males
,
Cus
,
Misraim
,
named
by
the
Arabs
Beidar
,
Fut
,
and
Canaan
.
Cus
was
the
Father
of
the
Abyssins
,
Misraim
of
the
Copties
and
Nubians
,
Fut
of
the
Africans
,
and
Canaan
of
the
Syrians
,
and
their
Neighbours
.
Misraim
after
the
Deluge
,
as
Macrisi
an
Arabian
Historian
saith
,
pitcht
upon
Egypt
,
made
there
his
abode
,
and
left
it
and
the
Country
,
as
far
as
the
farthest
part
of
Africa
,
to
his
Posterity
.
He
had
likewise
four
Sons
,
Ischemun
,
Atrib
,
Sá
,
and
Coptus
,
unto
whom
he
divided
the
Land
of
Egypt
in
four
equal
parts
;
Coptus
had
all
that
tract
of
Land
,
from
Isvan
to
the
City
of
Coptus
;
to
Ischemun
he
allotted
the
Country
from
that
City
to
Menuf
;
to
Atrib
he
gave
the
Heart
and
middle
of
Egypt
,
now
called
Delta
;
and
to
Sá
he
appointed
all
the
Continent
,
from
the
Province
of
Beheire
as
far
as
Barbary
.
They
all
builded
Cities
in
their
several
Dominions
,
calling
them
by
their
own
Names
.
We
shall
mention
them
in
the
sequel
of
this
Discourse
.
After
the
decease
of
their
Father
,
the
four
Brothers
were
at
variance
about
the
Soveraignty
,
neither
of
them
could
endure
a
Partner
.
At
last
they
resolved
to
end
their
Controversies
by
a
Battle
,
which
was
to
give
the
chief
Command
to
the
Victor
.
Coptus
the
youngest
overcame
all
the
rest
of
his
Brethren
,
and
was
acknowledg'd
by
them
as
their
Chief
Lord
.
He
chose
the
City
of
Menuf
,
or
Memphis
,
where
his
Father
lived
,
as
his
Royal
Seat
.
From
this
King
Coptus
all
the
Race
of
the
Egyptians
are
now
called
Copties
.
Likewise
from
this
first
King
,
the
Greeks
have
given
the
name
of
〈◊〉
〈◊〉
〈◊〉
〈◊〉
〈◊〉
to
the
Land
of
Egypt
,
by
changing
the
K
into
G
;
which
is
the
custom
not
only
of
this
Language
,
but
also
of
the
Arabian
,
as
may
appear
by
the
words
Nekkade
,
and
Dunkala
,
written
in
Arabian
with
a
K
,
and
nevertheless
they
are
pronounced
in
discourse
Neggade
,
and
Dungala
,
as
if
they
were
written
with
a
G.
They
are
the
names
of
two
Towns
;
the
one
in
the
Upper
Egypt
,
and
the
other
in
Nubia
.
The
Moors
and
Copties
,
Natural
Inhabitants
of
the
Country
,
call
it
Massr
,
from
Misraim
the
Son
of
Cham
,
and
the
Grand-child
of
Noah
,
who
first
laid
the
Foundations
of
it
after
the
Deluge
.
And
from
the
same
Misraim
,
the
Turks
have
named
it
Missir
,
and
the
Jews
Eretz
Misraim
,
the
Country
of
Misraim
.
Egypt
is
scituate
in
Africa
,
according
to
the
common
and
ordinary
Opinion
;
nevertheless
,
some
of
the
Ancient
Geographers
have
placed
it
part
in
Africa
,
and
part
in
Asia
,
making
the
River
Nilus
as
the
Bounds
between
these
two
great
parts
of
the
World
.
Egypt
is
bounded
on
the
South
with
Nubia
,
and
the
last
City
of
Egypt
is
Isvan
,
called
by
the
Europeans
Siene
,
which
is
commanded
by
the
Bay
of
Girge
;
on
the
West
it
hath
the
Provinces
of
Vah
,
and
Barca
;
and
on
the
East
are
the
Desarts
that
divide
it
from
Palestina
;
and
on
the
North
is
part
of
the
Mediterranean
Sea
.
It
stretcheth
it self
in
length
from
the
City
of
Isvan
to
the
Mouth
of
the
River
Nilus
;
at
Rosetta
,
in
a
streight
line
,
that
is
from
South
to
North
about
five
hundred
and
threescore
miles
:
it
is
not
possible
to
declare
it
precisely
,
because
they
are
not
wont
to
measure
the
Country
by
Miles
,
or
by
Leagues
,
but
by
the
Camels
Journeys
only
.
I
say
here
nothing
,
but
according
to
the
Relation
of
the
Authors
that
have
examin'd
it
.
It
is
divided
,
according
to
the
accounts
of
the
Divan
,
or
Treasury
,
into
three
parts
:
1.
Into
Said
,
or
the
Upper
Egypt
,
which
begins
at
Sint
,
and
extends
as
far
as
Isvan
.
2.
Into
Vostani
,
or
the
middle
Egypt
,
in
respect
of
the
Said
and
Cairo
:
And
3.
Into
Bahri
,
or
Inferiour
Egypt
.
The
middle
begins
at
Gize
,
a
Village
over
against
Boulac
,
and
reaches
as
far
as
Momfallon
▪
and
the
lower
commenceth
at
Cairo
,
and
includes
Alexandria
,
and
Damietta
.
The
Upper
Egypt
,
or
that
part
of
it
which
is
habitable
and
useful
,
is
very
narrow
.
In
the
widest
part
,
a
Horse
in
four
hours
may
pass
over
it
;
in
some
places
it
is
not
above
three
hours
riding
:
and
the
Country
in
both
sides
is
wild
,
sandy
,
and
hilly
.
I
cannot
give
an
exact
account
of
its
wideness
in
the
middle
,
but
yet
I
am
perswaded
it
is
not
much
larger
nor
wider
than
the
higher
part
;
for
being
scituated
between
both
,
Egypt
begins
to
grow
wider
about
Cairo
;
it
must
needs
follow
,
that
the
middle
is
not
much
wider
than
the
upper
part
,
unless
it
be
about
the
Cascieflik
of
Fiúm
,
where
Egypt
in
the
middle
begins
to
be
wider
;
but
yet
I
cannot
give
any
exact
account
of
it
.
The
Inferiour
part
is
wider
:
The
Inhabitants
reckon
about
70
miles
from
Damietta
to
Alexandria
,
the
most
Western-Town
upon
the
Sea-Coast
.
A
Learned
Person
of
this
Age
,
in
a
discourse
concerning
the
causes
of
the
Inundation
of
Nilus
,
hath
very
well
proved
against
the
Ancient
Philosophers
,
that
the
lower
Egypt
hath
always
been
,
and
is
not
a
new
gift
of
Nilus
.
He
grounds
his
Opinion
first
upon
Homerus
,
who
mentions
the
old
City
of
Canopus
,
which
was
at
one
of
the
chief
entrances
into
Nilus
from
the
Sea
.
Secondly
,
upon
the
testimony
of
Moses
and
David
,
Ps.
77.
who
have
mentioned
the
City
of
Tanis
,
where
was
Pharaoh's
Court
,
and
where
God
performed
great
Wonders
.
Egypt
was
always
governed
by
Kings
,
but
the
Royal
Seats
have
not
always
continued
the
same
,
for
the
Conquerours
have
altered
them
according
to
their
pleasure
.
The
first
Royal
City
,
as
Macrisi
saith
,
was
Amsus
;
but
the
Waters
of
the
Deluge
having
ruined
it
,
the
Posterity
of
Noah
built
Menuf
,
or
Memphis
,
which
was
the
Seat
of
the
Ancient
Kings
of
the
Race
of
Coptus
,
till
Nabuchodonozor
had
sack'd
it
.
When
Alexander
the
Great
had
built
Alexandria
,
he
made
it
the
Principal
City
,
where
all
the
succeeding
Kings
of
the
Greeks
made
their
Residence
for
nine
hundred
years
,
till
the
Arabians
had
taken
Egypt
,
and
made
Fostat
Metropolis
.
But
when
Giauher
,
the
General
of
Meez
le
Din-alla
had
built
Cairo
,
about
the
year
of
the
Hegeira
362.
he
called
it
Dar
il
Memleke
,
that
is
the
Royal
Seat
,
which
it
hath
been
ever
since
.
Egypt
hath
been
govern'd
by
three
several
sorts
of
Mahumetan
Princes
,
since
the
Arabians
took
it
from
the
Greeks
.
The
first
were
named
Omara
Massr
,
or
Lords
of
Egypt
,
without
any
other
Title
.
They
were
all
Arabians
,
and
Successors
of
Amru
ibn
il
Ass
,
who
was
the
first
Conquerour
,
and
after
to
Abu
il
Fevares
,
the
last
of
that
Race
.
We
reckon
one
hundred
and
twelve
Princes
of
Egypt
,
during
the
space
of
337
Years
,
seven
Months
,
and
twenty
Days
.
Their
Conquest
happen'd
about
twenty
years
after
the
Hegeira
,
and
ended
in
the
year
358.
They
all
dwelt
at
Fostat
Masser
,
or
thereabouts
.
The
second
Race
of
the
Arabians
were
called
Caliphs
.
They
began
to
take
that
Title
,
when
General
Abuhassein
Giauher
had
built
Cairo
by
the
Order
of
Meez
le
Din-alba
,
who
was
then
Prince
of
Barbary
,
and
Conquer'd
Egypt
,
and
took
it
from
the
Arabians
.
Egypt
was
afterwards
govern'd
by
its
Caliphs
about
108
Years
,
4
Months
,
and
22
Days
;
that
is
,
to
the
death
of
Adet
le
Din-alla
,
who
was
the
last
and
Eleventh
Caliph
.
The
third
sort
,
named
Sultans
or
Soldans
,
succeeded
immediately
after
;
of
them
there
have
been
of
four
Nations
.
The
first
,
who
was
the
Posterity
of
a
certain
Eijub
,
were
called
Sultans
Curdes
.
The
second
came
from
beyond
the
Seas
,
&
were
named
Mamaluk
Turks
,
because
they
had
been
before
Slaves
,
and
sold
by
the
Merchants
of
Constantinople
to
the
Kings
of
Egypt
,
who
caused
them
to
be
brought
up
and
instructed
in
all
Martial
Discipline
.
When
the
King
was
dead
,
one
of
these
Slaves
was
chosen
to
succeed
in
the
Throne
.
The
third
sort
were
stiled
Mamaluks
Circassians
,
because
they
came
originally
from
Circassia
,
and
were
brought
thither
by
the
Merchants
as
the
former
,
and
sold
also
as
Slaves
to
the
Kings
of
Egypt
,
who
caused
them
to
be
also
train'd
up
as
the
former
,
unto
whom
they
succeeded
in
the
Regal
Dignity
and
Command
.
The
fourth
sort
,
who
are
now
in
possession
,
are
the
Sultans
of
the
Race
of
Ottoman
,
who
overcame
the
Circassian
Sultans
in
the
year
922.
of
the
Hegeira
;
for
Sultan
Selim
Conquer'd
this
Kingdom
in
the
year
1517.
Egypt
is
inhabited
at
present
by
Copties
,
Moors
,
Arabians
,
Turks
,
Greeks
,
Jews
,
and
Franks
,
and
other
strange
Nations
;
but
as
they
are
not
numerous
,
they
deserve
not
to
be
mentioned
.
The
Copties
or
Copts
are
the
Natural
Inhabitants
of
the
Country
,
thus
called
,
as
we
have
already
said
,
of
Coptus
the
Son
of
Misraim
,
who
was
King
of
Egypt
after
his
Father
.
The
Moors
,
who
are
named
by
the
Arabians
Aulad
il
Arab
,
or
Children
of
the
Arabians
,
are
likewise
as
well
as
the
Copties
descended
from
the
same
Father
,
but
they
are
become
Mahumetans
,
and
it
may
be
since
they
have
Conquered
Egypt
,
there
are
some
amongst
them
yet
that
are
come
from
the
Arabians
.
The
Arabians
are
a
people
of
Arabia
,
and
though
they
live
in
Egypt
,
they
have
no
communication
with
the
Moors
,
who
are
originally
of
the
Country
.
They
are
of
many
differing
Generations
,
govern'd
by
their
several
Chieftains
,
whom
I
shall
mention
in
the
sequel
of
this
discourse
.
The
Turks
have
establish'd
themselves
there
since
Sultan
Selimus
conquer'd
Egypt
.
These
govern
the
Country
,
defend
it
,
and
act
in
all
Offices
of
State
.
The
Greeks
that
live
there
now
,
and
that
make
yet
profession
of
the
Christian
Religion
,
have
been
invited
thither
by
the
great
Trade
of
Egypt
;
for
there
is
no
sign
of
the
Ancient
Greeks
,
who
establish'd
themselves
there
when
Alexander
the
Great
conquer'd
Egypt
;
if
there
be
any
,
they
are
mingled
with
the
Copties
,
and
are
called
by
their
names
.
And
because
the
Greekish
Emperours
that
followed
the
Council
of
Chalcedonia
were
glad
to
incourage
a
Party
in
Egypt
against
the
Copties
,
sworn
Enemies
of
that
Council
,
they
protected
there
the
Greeks
that
went
thither
from
Greece
,
that
submitted
to
that
Council
,
and
gave
them
means
to
establish
themselves
in
this
Kingdom
;
since
that
time
the
Greekish
Religion
hath
been
there
professed
.
The
Jews
have
always
lived
there
;
at
present
they
are
very
numerous
,
and
are
in
great
repute
,
chiefly
at
Cairo
,
and
in
the
Maritime
Towns
:
but
unless
it
be
in
such
places
there
are
none
to
be
found
,
for
if
their
occasions
call
them
into
the
Country
,
they
usually
disguise
and
hide
themselves
;
for
when
the
Country-people
find
them
out
,
they
abuse
and
affront
them
strangely
.
The
Copties
at
present
in
Egypt
are
not
numerous
,
in
comparison
of
what
they
have
been
heretofore
;
for
in
the
days
of
Amru
ibn
il
Ass
,
who
took
this
Country
from
the
Greeks
,
there
was
of
this
Nation
six
hundred
thousand
that
paid
him
Tribute
:
but
now
,
according
to
the
relation
of
their
own
Patriarch
,
there
is
scarce
ten
or
fifteen
thousand
.
One
of
the
Causes
of
this
decrease
,
was
their
constancy
in
the
Christian
Religion
,
in
the
time
of
the
Romans
;
their
Governours
were
so
furious
against
them
for
that
reason
,
that
they
have
put
to
death
millions
at
a
time
:
for
the
Histories
tell
us
of
the
Governour
under
Dioclesian
the
Emperour
,
who
massacred
in
one
night
,
at
Christmas
,
fourscore
thousand
;
who
are
buried
upon
Mount
Achmim
in
the
Upper
Egypt
.
And
at
another
time
near
Isna
,
either
the
same
Governour
,
or
another
,
put
to
death
so
many
that
they
were
not
to
be
numbred
,
for
they
covered
fourscore
Fiddans
,
or
Furlongs
,
with
their
dead
martyr'd
bodies
:
The
Fiddan
in
Egypt
contains
400
Cassabs
or
Yards
,
every
Yard
is
6
Cubits
.
Another
Cause
of
their
decrease
in
the
days
of
the
Christian
Emperours
,
was
their
obstinacy
in
maintaining
the
Errour
of
Dioscorus
,
one
of
their
Patriarchs
,
concerning
one
Nature
,
one
Will
,
and
Person
in
Jesus
Christ
,
which
caused
them
to
suffer
almost
the
same
destructions
as
they
had
done
formerly
under
the
Heathen
Emperours
for
the
Christian
Faith
:
For
when
the
Greek
Emperours
offered
to
force
them
to
leave
the
Errour
of
Dioscorus
,
and
to
embrace
the
Faith
established
in
the
Council
of
Chalcedone
,
and
when
they
found
them
disobedient
and
inflexible
;
they
made
use
of
the
Sword
to
compass
their
design
.
Amongst
the
rest
the
Emperour
Justinian
,
as
Macriz
saith
in
his
History
of
the
Patriarchs
,
caused
two
hundred
thousand
Copties
to
be
killed
at
Alexandria
for
that
very
purpose
.
I
shall
not
mention
the
Cruelties
of
the
other
Emperours
his
Successors
exercised
upon
them
.
So
that
such
as
survived
after
such
like
Massacres
,
when
they
saw
the
danger
that
attended
the
profession
of
this
Opinion
,
and
of
appearing
in
the
Cities
,
they
retreated
into
the
wilderness
,
or
withdrew
themselves
into
the
Monasteries
,
in
despair
,
to
lead
a
Monastical
life
,
without
marriage
,
or
thinking
to
propagate
their
Nation
.
After
this
,
the
Mahometan
Kings
and
Princes
,
that
have
governed
Egypt
since
the
Christian
Emperours
,
when
they
found
them
rebellious
against
their
Government
,
have
not
spared
them
.
They
have
killed
the
Chief
,
sold
for
Slaves
the
Wives
and
Children
of
others
,
so
that
the
weaker
sort
have
been
forc'd
to
turn
Mahometans
.
By
this
means
,
after
so
many
evils
,
this
Nation
is
reduced
to
a
very
small
number
.
They
were
anciently
Heathens
,
every
City
had
a
God
to
adore
.
Abusir
,
or
the
old
Busiris
,
worshipped
a
Calf
.
Alexandria
,
the
ancient
Racotis
,
adored
Serapis
of
Stone
.
Achmim
,
which
is
the
old
Panos
,
acknowledged
Apollo
.
Bana
worshipped
a
Dog
.
Bassa
,
or
the
old
Bubastis
,
had
for
God
a
Lion
of
Stone
.
Eida
adored
Serapis
.
Ischemunein
,
which
is
the
ancient
Hermopolis
,
worshipped
a
Man
of
Stone
.
Isvan
,
called
by
the
Copties
Sevan
,
reverenced
the
Tree
Lebaca
.
Cous
worshipped
the
Moon
and
Stars
.
Mindadi
the
Fig-tree
of
Pharaoh
.
Memphis
a
Calf
.
Atrib
,
or
the
old
Atribis
,
adored
a
Calf
of
Stone
.
Semennut
,
which
is
the
ancient
Sebennis
,
worshipped
a
Calf
of
Brass
.
Sa
a
Hog
of
Stone
.
Tuba
had
a
respect
for
the
Water
and
all
that
is
therein
.
I
have
taken
all
these
particulars
out
of
an
old
Manuscript
in
Arabick
,
that
I
have
seen
in
the
Monastry
of
S.
Anthony
.
But
since
the
coming
of
our
Saviour
Jesus
Christ
,
they
have
been
some
of
the
first
that
have
embraced
the
Christian
Religion
,
at
the
preaching
of
the
Apostle
S.
Mark
.
They
have
continued
in
the
right
Faith
,
till
Dioscorus
their
Patriarch
fell
into
this
Heresie
,
That
in
Jesus
Christ
there
was
but
one
Nature
,
one
Substance
,
one
Will
,
and
one
Operation
.
This
Errour
with
its
Author
was
condemned
in
the
Council
of
Chalcedone
,
and
such
as
receive
it
are
counted
as
Hereticks
by
the
Church
of
Rome
;
therefore
they
have
been
persecuted
by
the
Christian
Emperours
in
times
past
.
But
because
I
treat
more
amply
of
their
Belief
and
Ecclesiastical
Ceremonies
in
another
Book
named
the
Church
of
Alexandria
,
which
I
composed
for
that
purpose
when
I
was
at
Cairo
,
therefore
I
will
say
no
more
at
present
.
The
Egyptians
have
often
changed
their
Language
.
The
first
and
ancient
Language
of
the
Country
was
that
of
the
Copties
,
which
was
used
all
the
time
that
their
Kings
reigned
in
Egypt
.
But
when
Alexander
the
Great
had
subdued
that
Country
,
they
were
forced
to
learn
the
Speech
of
their
Conquerour
,
which
was
the
Greek
,
since
commonly
spoken
in
Egypt
above
nine
hundred
years
,
till
the
Arabians
had
driven
away
the
Greeks
.
They
brought
in
the
Arabian
Tongue
,
which
is
now
commonly
used
.
Of
Saida
,
or
the
Upper
Egypt
.
SAid
in
Arabick
signifies
a
Place
or
a
Country
,
higher
and
above
another
:
Therefore
because
the
Upper
Egypt
is
higher
and
above
the
Lower
,
it
bears
this
Name
.
The
Arabians
call
it
yet
Vogh
il
ard
,
or
the
Face
of
the
Country
,
being
situate
on
the
South
of
Cairo
.
The
Hogia's
or
Priests
of
Mahomet
turn
that
way
their
Faces
,
when
they
begin
to
call
the
Congregation
to
Prayers
,
because
Mecha
is
towards
the
South
,
in
respect
of
all
the
Territories
of
the
Ottoman
Empire
.
Giafer
ibn
Daleb
,
an
Arabian
Historian
,
saith
,
that
it
is
twelve
days
journey
long
,
as
they
march
with
Camels
in
Egypt
;
but
it
is
not
above
four
Hours
travelling
from
side
to
side
in
the
Country
that
is
inhabited
:
for
if
we
should
comprehend
in
the
breadth
the
Mountains
of
Sand
on
the
East
and
West
,
it
is
a
great
deal
broader
than
we
have
said
.
The
City
of
Isvan
is
the
farthest
Confine
towards
the
South
,
which
is
in
the
Cascieflick
of
Ibrîm
.
On
the
East
it
stretcheth
forth
as
far
as
the
Red-sea
,
and
on
the
West
as
far
as
the
Province
of
Vah
.
The
Chief
City
heretofore
was
Hú
,
whereof
I
shall
speak
hereafter
more
at
large
;
but
now
the
Capital
City
is
Girge
,
where
lives
the
Sangiac-Bey
that
governs
it
.
Anciently
certain
Princes
ruled
here
in
the
time
of
the
Arabians
,
called
in
their
Language
Omara
Said
.
They
dwelt
then
at
Hú
,
which
is
,
the
old
Diospolis
,
surnamed
the
Upper
,
distant
from
Girgé
about
a
days
journey
,
and
on
the
same
side
of
the
River
Nilus
as
we
go
up
:
But
when
Girgé
was
inlarg'd
by
time
,
and
Hú
fell
to
decay
,
the
Princes
of
Said
settled
their
abode
at
Girgé
,
which
hath
been
always
the
Chief
City
since
that
time
till
now
.
About
fifty
years
ago
the
Turks
drove
away
from
thence
those
Arabian
Princes
,
and
in
their
stead
they
put
the
Sangiac-Beys
,
who
are
Natural
Turks
;
the
first
was
named
Soliman-Gianballat
.
This
puts
me
in
mind
of
a
mistake
of
James
Albertus
in
his
discourse
of
Egypt
;
he
saith
,
that
Said
was
about
60
years
ago
a
Kingdom
of
it self
,
to
which
the
Grand
Seignior
did
usually
assign
a
Pacha
.
This
Errour
hath
no
ground
:
First
,
because
in
all
the
Histories
,
ancient
and
new
,
of
the
Arabians
,
the
Province
of
Said
is
never
nam'd
Memleke
a
Kingdom
,
nor
Pachalick
the
Government
of
a
Pacha
,
but
only
Arde
Said
,
i.
e.
the
Country
of
Said
;
and
its
Rulers
,
were
not
nam'd
Kings
,
or
Pachas
,
but
only
Omara
Said
,
or
Princes
of
Said
.
Secondly
,
because
all
the
Governours
of
the
Turkish
Race
,
who
have
govern'd
it
since
the
driving
out
of
the
Arabian
Princes
,
are
never
call'd
in
the
Registers
of
the
Divan
,
nor
of
the
common
people
,
otherwise
than
Sangiac-Beys
,
two
only
excepted
,
who
were
named
Pachas
,
because
they
had
been
Pachas
before
they
were
the
Governours
of
this
Province
;
and
though
they
did
bear
this
Title
,
they
were
always
subject
to
the
Pachas
of
Grand
Cairo
.
It
is
certain
,
the
Province
of
Said
is
very
large
;
and
if
it
were
all
inhabited
,
and
all
manur'd
,
as
is
the
lower
Egypt
,
its
Bey
might
contend
with
the
Pacha
of
Cairo
for
pre-eminence
.
They
have
often
endeavour'd
to
free
themselves
from
his
Command
,
but
because
the
inhabited
Country
is
very
narrow
,
and
the
Villages
and
Towns
ruinated
,
they
could
never
succeed
in
their
design
.
Nevertheless
,
the
Government
is
much
like
that
of
the
Pachas
of
Cairo
,
for
he
hath
the
same
Officers
to
attend
him
,
a
Chiaoux-Bachi
,
or
a
Captain
of
the
Chiaoux
,
an
Interpreter
,
an
Aga
of
the
Janizaries
,
and
other
Aga's
of
the
Military
Orders
,
named
in
their
Language
Boulouks
,
who
are
taken
out
of
the
Souldiery
of
Cairo
,
and
are
paid
out
of
the
Reversions
of
the
Divan
.
He
hath
likewise
his
Divan
Catebi
,
or
Chancellour
;
and
in
truth
,
he
hath
all
the
Priviledges
of
a
Pacha
,
but
he
hath
not
the
Title
,
nor
the
Quality
,
nor
ever
had
.
This
Bey
gives
to
the
Pacha
of
Cairo
,
as
James
Albertus
saith
,
forty
Purses
every
year
;
besides
,
he
sends
him
fifty
Horses
,
fifty
Mules
,
and
one
hundred
Camels
.
He
gives
also
ten
Purses
to
his
Kehaja
,
and
his
Aga
:
And
for
the
Tax
of
his
Country
,
he
pays
to
the
Divan
of
Cairo
one
hundred
and
fifty
Ardebs
of
Wheat
;
and
when
he
gives
other
Grain
,
he
delivers
one
Ardeb
and
a
half
,
instead
of
one
Ardeb
of
Wheat
;
and
besides
,
he
sends
four
hundred
and
fourscore
Purses
,
each
Purse
containing
five
hundred
Crowns
:
And
when
he
is
in
the
last
year
of
his
Government
,
he
is
bound
to
cause
all
the
Lands
of
his
Government
to
be
sown
which
the
River
hath
watered
,
and
for
his
Expences
the
Divan
gives
him
an
Allowance
.
Of
the
Casciefs
of
Egypt
.
IN
regard
the
word
Cascief
is
often
repeated
in
this
Treatise
,
I
have
thought
it
needful
,
before
I
proceed
any
farther
in
the
general
description
of
Egypt
,
to
mention
its
Origine
,
and
the
number
and
imployment
of
the
Casciefs
:
By
this
means
we
shall
see
that
all
Egypt
is
divided
into
little
Provinces
,
or
Governments
.
The
word
Cascief
proceeds
from
the
Arabik
Jickscif
,
which
signifies
to
discover
a
thing
;
because
their
Ancient
Office
was
to
visit
their
Province
and
Jurisdiction
,
to
find
out
the
Arabians
,
and
Thieves
,
and
Persons
of
an
ill
life
,
and
to
punish
them
:
But
now
their
Power
and
Riches
increasing
,
they
have
rented
the
Incomes
of
their
Provinces
without
altering
their
Names
;
so
that
at
this
time
they
are
the
Petty-Governours
of
Egypt
,
and
are
in
number
six
and
thirty
.
In
the
upper
Egypt
are
twenty
four
,
namely
of
Sint
,
where
the
upper
Egypt
begins
,
of
Abutig
,
of
Temeh
,
of
Tahta
,
of
Gezire
,
of
Sobaitg
,
of
Minscie
,
of
Tuh
il
essirat
,
of
Girgé
,
where
the
Vali
is
the
Cascief
:
All
these
are
on
the
West-side
of
Nilus
,
before
you
come
to
Girgé
.
These
following
are
likewise
on
the
West-side
of
Nilus
;
but
beyond
Girge
,
namely
,
the
Casciefs
of
Berdis
,
of
Fersciut
,
of
Hu
,
of
Bahgiura
,
of
Jarbuksas
,
of
Arment
,
and
of
Isne
.
These
following
reside
on
the
East-part
of
Nilus
;
namely
,
the
Casciefs
of
Scierkabuet
,
of
Achmin
,
of
Scierkmerg
,
of
Limbir
ve
il
cheijam
,
of
Scierkfau
,
of
Cous
,
of
Kenne
,
of
Luxorein
,
and
of
Ibrim
.
Six
dwell
in
the
middle
Egypt
;
namely
,
at
Momfallot
,
where
the
Cascief
Commands
the
other
of
Vah
;
there
is
the
Cascief
of
Ischmunein
that
dwells
at
Minie
,
the
Casciefs
of
Behnese
,
of
Fium
,
of
Gize
:
All
these
are
at
the
West-side
of
Nilus
;
and
on
the
East
there
is
only
the
Cascief
of
Atfieh
,
in
the
middle
of
Egypt
.
There
are
also
six
in
the
lower
Egypt
;
namely
,
of
Menuf
,
of
Garbie
,
which
two
Provinces
are
in
the
Isle
of
Delta
.
The
Cascief
of
Beheire
resides
in
the
West-side
of
Nilus
,
as
we
go
to
Gize
,
over
against
Cairo
.
This
Province
reaches
as
far
as
Alexandria
,
and
includes
the
little
Cascief
of
Tarane
that
depends
upon
it
.
There
is
likewise
the
Cascief
of
Kel
,
Jub
,
in
the
same
side
as
Cairo
,
and
the
Cascief
of
Mansoura
on
the
same
hand
,
near
the
Province
of
Keliub
,
and
the
Cascief
of
Bilbeis
,
which
is
on
the
side
of
Crand
Cairo
.
All
the
Casciefs
of
the
inferiour
Egypt
,
and
some
also
of
the
middle
,
never
abide
in
the
Towns
of
their
Jurisdictions
,
for
the
most
part
,
but
only
eight
or
nine
Months
,
from
January
till
August
.
When
Nilus
begins
to
overflow
the
Banks
,
then
they
retreat
to
Cairo
,
where
they
dwell
till
the
Waters
are
gone
,
and
that
the
Bersim
,
or
Sinfoin
,
is
grown
high
enough
to
feed
their
Horses
.
When
the
Governours
are
gone
out
of
their
Towns
,
there
is
no
assurance
for
a
Traveller
,
for
the
Arabians
and
Thieves
having
no
body
to
fear
in
the
quarter
,
they
watch
for
their
prey
in
the
passages
and
high-ways
;
so
it
is
not
safe
to
travel
by
Land
,
till
they
be
return'd
to
their
Jurisdictions
again
,
which
commonly
happens
at
the
Feast
of
the
Epiphany
of
the
Copties
.
They
observe
this
order
in
going
from
Cairo
;
the
Cascief
of
Garbie
departs
the
next
day
after
the
Epiphany
,
of
Menuf
,
the
day
following
;
the
third
day
the
Cascief
of
Beheire
,
the
fourth
of
Mansoura
,
the
fifth
of
Atfieh
,
the
sixth
of
Keliub
,
the
seventh
goes
away
Lord
of
Gize
.
They
all
come
back
again
to
Cairo
,
in
the
Month
of
August
,
in
the
same
order
.
This
is
the
Tax
that
was
commonly
paid
in
the
year
1634.
as
James
Albertus
saith
;
I
know
not
whether
there
is
any
alteration
.
The
Cascief
of
Beheire
pays
to
the
Pacha
30
Purses
,
to
his
Kehaja
and
Agas
six
Purses
,
and
to
the
Divan
or
Treasury
of
the
Grand
Seignior
,
yearly
in
four
portions
,
four
hundred
and
fourscore
Purses
.
He
hath
at
his
Command
two
hundred
men
,
half
Spahis
,
and
half
Metferracas
;
and
besides
these
,
he
hires
many
more
to
give
a
check
to
the
Arabians
.
He
is
bound
to
make
the
water
of
the
River
to
run
into
Alexandria
,
through
the
Calitz
or
Conduit
of
Cleopatra
,
which
conveys
the
water
from
a
Village
called
Latf
;
he
is
bound
also
to
entertain
Souldiers
all
along
the
Channel
,
to
see
that
the
water
be
not
cut
off
:
he
is
also
bound
to
cause
it
to
be
cleansed
at
his
own
charges
.
In
his
Province
are
one
hundred
threescore
and
ten
Towns
and
Villages
.
The
Cascief
of
Menuf
pays
to
the
Pacha
five
and
twenty
Purses
,
to
his
Kehaja
and
Agas
four
,
and
to
the
Divan
two
hundred
fourscore
and
sixteen
;
and
the
Divan
of
Cairo
is
obliged
to
entertain
one
hundred
Spahis
to
keep
his
Country
.
The
Cascief
of
Garbia
pays
to
the
Pacha
,
as
I
understood
when
I
was
at
Cairo
,
one
and
thirty
Purses
;
two
to
his
Kehaja
,
to
the
Emir
Achour
,
a
great
Officer
,
eighteen
thousand
Medins
;
and
in
all
,
one
hundred
and
twenty
Purses
.
The
Divan
of
Cairo
allows
him
one
hundred
and
fifty
Souldiers
;
he
lives
at
Mohelle
Kebire
,
or
the
Great
Mohelle
,
the
Chief
Town
of
the
Province
.
The
Cascief
of
Mansoura
,
as
James
Albertus
saith
,
gives
to
the
Pacha
five
and
twenty
Purses
,
four
to
his
Kehaja
and
Agas
,
and
to
the
Divan
two
hundred
fourscore
and
sixteen
.
The
Divan
entertains
a
hundred
Souldiers
in
his
Province
,
and
keeps
as
many
more
.
The
Cascief
of
Keliub
,
which
was
the
old
Calliope
,
scituated
on
the
East-side
of
the
River
Nilus
,
as
Cairo
,
pays
to
the
Pacha
five
and
twenty
Purses
,
four
to
his
Kehaja
and
Agas
,
and
to
the
Divan
two
hundred
fourscore
and
sixteen
.
The
Divan
keeps
for
him
,
as
for
the
former
,
a
hundred
Souldiers
.
When
the
Cascief
receives
the
Coftan
,
or
his
Commission
from
the
Pacha
,
he
spends
about
five
hundred
Crowns
.
All
such
persons
as
have
been
Chiaoux
and
Metferracas
may
pretend
to
this
Office
:
These
Metferracas
,
amongst
the
Turks
,
are
a
Noble
kind
of
Horsemen
.
Of
the
Seasons
of
Egypt
.
THough
the
Copties
are
much
despised
by
all
the
Mahumetans
,
they
are
esteem'd
because
of
the
computation
of
the
time
;
for
the
Mahumetans
in
all
their
actions
,
either
private
or
publick
,
never
make
use
of
their
own
computation
,
but
of
that
of
the
Copties
,
as
the
justest
and
the
best
for
their
business
:
For
example
,
they
say
not
,
that
the
Rains
fall
such
and
such
a
day
of
their
Month
,
but
such
a
day
of
the
Month
of
the
Copties
.
They
reckon
Easter
,
called
Camsins
,
not
after
their
Beiram
,
but
according
to
the
Easter
of
the
Copties
:
So
that
they
govern
all
their
actions
,
and
all
their
publick
affairs
,
not
according
to
their
own
,
but
according
to
the
Copties
Calendar
.
The
Copties
divide
thus
the
Seasons
of
the
Year
:
They
reckon
the
Autumns
,
called
by
the
Arabians
il
Charif
,
from
the
15th
day
of
the
Month
Tot
,
or
September
,
till
the
15th
of
Kijahak
,
or
December
.
Winter
,
named
by
them
il
Scitte
,
begins
on
the
15th
day
of
December
,
and
ends
on
the
15th
day
of
Baramhat
,
or
March
.
The
Spring
,
called
by
them
il
Auvel
rebie
,
begins
on
the
15th
day
of
March
,
and
ends
the
15th
day
of
Baoni
,
or
June
.
The
Summer
on
the
15th
day
of
June
,
and
ends
the
15th
day
of
the
Month
Tot
,
or
September
:
they
reckon
for
every
Season
just
three
Months
.
They
begin
the
year
the
8th
day
of
September
,
according
to
the
Gregorian
stile
,
or
on
the
28th
of
August
,
according
to
the
Calendar
of
the
Greeks
.
They
reckon
this
present
year
1672.
to
be
the
1398.
year
since
the
Vice-Roy
of
Dioclesian
massacred
so
many
Martyrs
,
at
which
time
they
begin
their
computation
.
These
are
the
names
of
their
Months
,
and
the
days
in
which
they
begin
.
-
Tot
,
or
September
,
begins
the
8th
day
of
ours
.
-
Babe
,
or
October
,
begins
the
—
of
ours
.
-
Hatur
,
or
November
,
begins
the
—
of
ours
.
-
Kijahak
,
or
December
,
begins
the
7th
of
ours
.
-
Tube
,
or
January
,
begins
the
6th
of
ours
.
-
Amscir
,
or
February
,
begins
the
4th
of
ours
.
-
Baramhat
,
or
March
,
begins
the
7th
of
ours
.
-
Bermude
,
or
April
,
begins
the
6th
of
ours
.
-
Besciens
,
or
May
,
begins
the
6th
of
ours
.
-
Baoni
,
or
June
,
begins
the
5th
of
ours
.
-
Abib
,
or
July
,
begins
the
5th
of
ours
.
-
Messr
,
or
August
,
begins
the
first
day
of
ours
.
Every
Month
hath
30
days
,
which
make
up
360.
and
because
there
wants
yet
five
to
compleat
the
year
,
they
add
the
five
at
the
end
of
all
,
and
call
them
Epagomene
,
which
signifies
added
,
to
make
up
the
full
year
.
The
most
temperate
Season
hath
something
of
the
Spring
and
the
Autumn
;
which
two
Seasons
cannot
well
be
distinguished
in
Egypt
.
Now
the
mild
Weather
begins
in
the
Month
of
September
,
then
the
people
begin
to
breath
the
fresh
air
;
but
as
about
this
time
the
Fields
are
all
drown'd
in
water
,
and
that
there
is
no
walking
up
and
down
by
Land
,
the
abode
is
not
then
so
pleasant
till
the
middle
of
November
:
Then
the
Country
is
dry
,
the
Ways
are
free
,
the
Waters
are
run
into
their
usual
Currents
,
the
Birds
are
to
be
taken
by
the
Fowler
,
the
Air
is
pleasant
,
the
heat
of
the
Sun
is
supportable
,
the
Fields
grow
green
,
and
the
sweet
and
fresh
Gales
blow
every
where
.
In
short
,
the
Season
is
then
very
pleasant
,
and
continues
so
till
the
middle
of
April
.
The
cold
season
,
which
is
answerable
to
our
Winter
,
begins
about
the
middle
of
December
:
It
is
a
delightful
time
,
unless
in
the
seven
days
which
the
Arabians
call
Berd
il
agiuz
,
or
the
cold
of
the
old
Hag
;
they
begin
about
the
7th
of
February
,
and
continue
till
the
14th
;
the
Mornings
are
then
very
cold
,
the
Sky
is
cloudy
,
the
Rains
fall
,
and
the
Winds
are
commonly
very
boisterous
.
Though
the
Winter
is
there
very
mild
,
persons
of
Estate
wear
Furr'd
Gowns
,
from
the
Month
of
November
,
till
the
Month
of
March
,
not
because
of
any
great
cold
,
for
there
is
scarce
any
,
but
because
then
the
Weather
is
variable
,
and
they
fear
to
be
incommoded
with
the
distempers
which
this
changeable
weather
produceth
.
The
Summer
is
the
worst
and
most
troublesom
season
,
because
of
the
excessive
heats
of
the
hot
Winds
,
and
the
dangerous
diseases
that
are
rife
,
chiefly
at
that
time
,
which
the
Egyptians
call
Camsins
,
which
we
name
Easter
.
This
dangerous
season
begins
about
the
Easter-Monday
of
the
Copties
,
and
ends
at
their
Whitson-Monday
.
About
this
time
the
Winds
,
called
by
the
Arabians
Merissi
,
are
boisterous
;
they
are
so
hot
and
troublesome
,
that
they
are
ready
to
stifle
the
breath
,
and
they
raise
in
the
Air
so
much
Straw
and
Sand
,
that
the
Sky
is
darkned
.
This
Sand
is
so
subtil
,
that
it
penetrates
through
every
little
chink
and
hole
.
About
this
time
Malignant
Fevers
commonly
reign
,
Dysenteries
,
and
many
other
Diseases
;
the
least
is
incurable
,
if
the
necessary
Remedies
be
not
applied
in
time
:
And
when
these
winds
blow
,
the
bodies
that
are
not
distemper'd
,
are
cast
down
,
and
not
well
.
These
Southerly
winds
blow
not
every
day
in
this
season
,
nor
every
year
in
the
same
manner
and
fury
;
for
in
the
year
1672.
they
blew
but
twelve
times
,
and
the
next
year
but
twice
,
and
that
very
moderately
;
other
fresher
and
wholesomer
winds
blew
the
rest
of
the
time
.
It
is
not
possible
to
express
the
joy
of
the
people
,
when
these
Southerly
winds
favour
them
,
and
are
mild
.
The
ordinary
time
of
Rains
and
Winds
,
which
might
be
compared
with
our
Autumn
,
begins
in
the
Month
of
December
,
and
continues
till
January
,
and
February
;
though
at
Rosetta
,
and
Alexandria
,
the
Rains
fall
at
other
times
,
because
of
the
Seas
that
are
so
near
.
At
the
Eve
of
the
Pentecost
,
in
the
year
1672.
the
weather
was
full
of
Rain
at
Rosetta
,
and
the
next
day
followed
a
very
thick
Mist
.
On
the
24th
day
of
November
,
in
the
same
year
,
the
Rains
fell
very
moderately
at
Cairo
;
the
Sky
was
obscure
,
and
full
of
wind
;
and
on
the
tenth
,
eleventh
,
fourteenth
and
fifteenth
in
the
same
Month
,
very
furious
Rains
fell
.
By
this
you
may
see
,
that
it
is
a
great
errour
to
say
,
that
it
never
Rains
in
Egypt
.
I
have
often
seen
in
my
Travels
,
that
the
weather
hath
been
so
misty
and
moist
,
that
my
Beard
and
Cloaths
have
been
so
wet
,
that
a
showre
of
Rain
could
not
have
wetted
them
more
;
and
that
which
is
wonderful
is
,
that
this
happened
in
a
season
that
none
ever
expected
it
.
During
several
mornings
in
the
Month
of
April
,
in
the
year
1672.
in
my
travelling
from
Damietta
to
Cairo
,
the
same
thing
happen'd
to
me
in
the
Month
of
June
at
Rosetta
;
and
in
the
Month
of
September
at
Benesuef
;
and
in
October
,
in
my
return
from
the
Monastery
of
S.
Anthony
.
These
wet
Mists
are
more
frequent
about
Cairo
,
than
in
other
places
.
They
begin
usually
about
the
Month
of
November
,
before
the
rising
of
the
Sun
,
and
continue
all
the
Winter
.
Some
happen
in
other
seasons
of
the
year
,
and
many
times
in
Summer
,
as
I
have
taken
notice
in
the
year
1672.
in
the
beginning
of
August
,
in
my
return
back
from
Fium
to
Mocanan
,
a
Village
about
four
hours
travelling
from
Cairo
,
I
saw
upon
the
Town
so
thick
a
Mist
,
that
I
could
not
discover
it
,
nor
the
Pyramids
that
are
near
,
though
the
Air
was
clear
where
I
stood
.
In
all
the
seasons
of
the
year
,
when
the
nights
are
serene
,
there
is
so
much
Dew
that
falls
,
that
it
may
very
well
be
taken
for
a
little
showre
;
but
when
the
Sky
is
cloudy
,
there
falls
no
Dew
.
Were
it
not
for
these
Dews
,
there
would
be
no
Grass
nor
Corn
,
the
Trees
would
bear
no
Fruit
,
the
wild
Beasts
in
the
Desarts
could
not
live
where
there
are
no
Fountains
nor
Rivers
,
and
where
the
Rains
fall
but
seldom
.
Thunders
are
not
often
heard
;
in
all
the
time
that
I
was
in
Egypt
,
I
heard
this
noise
but
twice
,
on
the
first
day
of
January
,
and
on
the
fourth
of
May
,
1673.
I
have
already
spoken
of
the
two
chief
Winds
that
blow
in
Egypt
,
Merissi
and
Maltem
.
I
must
further
take
notice
,
that
not
only
the
Southern
Winds
are
named
Merissi
,
but
also
the
Eastern
.
They
blow
commonly
twice
every
year
;
at
Easter
,
called
(
as
I
have
already
said
)
Camsin
;
and
from
the
Month
of
November
,
till
the
middle
of
February
.
They
are
helpful
to
those
that
travel
down
the
River
Nilus
,
and
to
the
Ships
that
sail
from
the
Indies
and
Arabia
through
the
Red-Sea
to
Sues
:
But
they
are
contrary
to
those
that
go
up
the
River
:
From
hence
it
sometimes
happens
,
that
Travellers
are
30
days
going
up
from
Cairo
to
Girge
,
which
Voyage
is
easily
performed
in
8
or
10
days
when
the
other
winds
blow
.
The
Winds
called
Maltem
or
Teijáb
are
Westerly
Winds
:
They
begin
about
twelve
days
before
the
Rain
falls
,
and
last
till
the
Month
of
November
;
during
that
time
scarce
any
other
Wind
blows
.
The
Winds
called
Merissi
are
hot
,
they
spoil
the
Corn
,
and
are
hurtful
to
every
thing
;
but
these
nourish
and
refresh
,
not
only
the
Corn
,
but
are
comfortable
to
Man
and
Beast
,
for
they
are
cooling
,
and
give
strength
.
They
stop
the
Mouth
of
the
River
,
and
cause
the
Waves
to
send
back
the
water
of
Nilus
,
which
makes
it
to
stop
and
swell
over
the
Banks
to
water
the
Earth
,
and
fill
all
the
Channels
with
water
.
In
their
seasons
they
begin
to
blow
about
Noon
,
and
continue
till
midnight
;
but
between
midnight
,
and
the
Noon
of
the
next
day
,
they
seldom
blow
,
or
very
faintly
.
The
Description
of
the
Egyptians
.
THe
Egyptians
generally
are
of
an
Olive-colour
,
and
the
farther
their
Country
is
distant
from
Cairo
towards
the
South
,
their
skin
is
the
more
tawny
;
such
as
live
next
to
Nubia
are
all
blackish
,
as
the
Nubians
.
Their
ordinary
Vices
are
Idleness
and
Cowardise
,
which
is
so
natural
to
them
,
that
they
are
all
toucht
with
them
,
whether
they
be
Mores
or
Copties
:
Their
ordinary
imployment
every
day
is
to
smoak
Tobacco
,
and
drink
Coffee
,
to
sleep
,
or
lye
in
a
place
idle
,
or
sit
talking
together
.
They
are
very
ignorant
in
all
manner
of
Sciences
and
Knowledges
;
they
are
very
proud
and
vain-glorious
;
and
though
they
all
know
that
they
have
lost
their
Nobility
,
their
Country
,
all
knowledge
and
exercise
of
Arms
,
their
Language
,
their
chief
Books
,
and
publick
Histories
,
and
that
instead
of
a
famous
and
valiant
Nation
that
they
were
heretofore
,
they
are
become
meer
Slaves
,
an
odious
and
a
contemptible
people
;
nevertheless
they
are
so
proud
,
as
to
think
that
they
have
need
of
nothing
.
They
are
displeased
when
we
Francs
advise
them
to
send
their
Children
into
our
Country
to
learn
the
Arts
and
Sciences
,
and
to
understand
how
we
live
and
behave
our selves
.
The
common
people
are
Thieves
,
Lyars
,
treacherous
,
and
so
greedy
of
gain
,
that
for
the
love
of
a
Meidin
they
would
kill
their
own
Fathers
.
They
are
very
negligent
of
their
business
,
and
changeable
,
troublesome
in
discourse
,
so
unconstant
in
their
promises
,
that
there
is
no
heed
to
be
taken
of
their
words
,
nor
of
their
Oaths
.
In
a
word
,
they
are
very
proper
to
be
imployed
in
all
evil
actions
;
my
Conversation
with
men
of
that
Nation
of
all
sorts
,
hath
caused
me
to
discover
them
to
the
bottom
.
The
Women
of
the
Country
are
usually
of
a
low
stature
,
of
a
brown
Complexion
,
all
their
Beauty
consists
in
a
lively
eye
;
their
discourses
are
troublesome
,
and
their
cloathing
is
not
handsom
.
The
Wives
of
the
better
sort
,
brought
from
other
parts
of
Turkie
,
are
better
bred
,
and
more
pleasing
in
all
respects
.
Of
the
River
Nilus
.
THe
discovery
of
the
Springs
of
Nilus
,
which
hath
caused
so
many
Disputes
amongst
the
Ancient
Philosophers
,
and
for
which
some
great
Persons
were
at
vast
expences
without
any
success
,
seems
to
have
been
left
to
the
Portugueses
,
who
have
found
them
out
in
our
Age.
Father
Telles
,
a
Jesuite
,
saith
in
his
History
of
Ethiopia
,
printed
at
Lisbon
,
That
in
the
Kingdom
of
Gojam
,
which
is
about
12
Degrees
from
the
Equinoctial
towards
the
West
,
and
in
the
Province
of
Sacahala
,
inhabited
by
the
Agaus
in
a
Field
of
no
great
extent
,
incompassed
about
with
many
high
Mountains
,
there
is
a
little
Lake
over
which
one
may
cast
a
stone
,
full
of
Bushes
and
low
Trees
,
whereof
the
Roots
are
so
thick
and
intangled
,
that
in
Summer
one
may
walk
upon
them
.
In
the
middle
of
this
Lake
are
two
great
and
deep
Fountains
very
near
together
;
from
hence
issues
out
a
clear
water
that
runs
under
these
Bushes
and
low
Trees
in
two
several
Channels
:
towards
the
East
,
and
about
the
distance
of
a
Musket-shot
,
they
turn
to
the
North
;
about
half
a
mile
from
thence
there
appears
a
great
deal
of
water
,
and
a
considerable
River
,
into
which
runs
many
other
streams
;
and
about
15
miles
from
thence
,
it
receives
another
bigger
water
,
called
Gema
,
which
loseth
then
its
name
:
a
little
farther
,
turning
towards
the
East
,
it
receives
also
two
other
considerable
streams
,
called
Kelti
and
Branti
;
near
this
place
is
the
first
fall
of
the
River
:
Not
much
farther
,
in
running
towards
the
East
,
it
enters
into
the
Lake
of
the
Abyssins
,
named
Bahr
Dembea
,
or
the
Sea
of
Dembea
:
when
it
is
past
through
,
without
mingling
its
waters
with
the
waters
of
the
Lake
,
it
receives
many
other
Rivers
very
great
;
and
namely
,
the
River
Tekeze
near
Egypt
.
As
soon
as
Nilus
is
out
of
the
Lake
Dembea
,
it
turns
to
the
South-East
,
leaving
at
the
left
hand
the
Kingdoms
of
Beg-amidr
,
of
Amhara
,
of
Voleca
;
afterwards
running
to
the
South
,
it
hath
upon
the
South-East
the
Kingdom
of
Sauva
;
afterwards
turning
again
to
the
East-North-East
,
it
hath
on
the
South
-
side
Ganz
,
Gafata
,
and
Bizamo
,
and
passeth
through
the
Countries
of
Gonga
and
Gafre
,
and
a
little
farther
by
Fascalo
,
then
it
enters
into
the
Country
of
Funch
,
or
Nubia
,
and
from
thence
runs
into
Egypt
,
as
Father
Telles
affirms
.
We
must
consider
besides
,
that
when
Nilus
is
fallen
down
the
last
Cataract
near
Isvan
,
it
runs
from
the
South
to
the
North
very
slowly
,
and
divides
it self
below
Boulac
into
two
great
Branches
,
the
one
meets
the
Sea
at
Rosetta
,
and
the
other
at
Damietta
.
This
latter
divides
it self
into
another
Current
at
Sciobret
il
yemen
,
a
Village
scituate
on
the
West-side
of
Nilus
,
about
half-way
between
Cairo
and
Damietta
,
which
runs
into
the
Sea
at
Brullos
.
Besides
these
three
branches
,
there
is
a
fourth
which
is
artificial
,
and
full
of
water
;
but
about
thirty
days
of
the
year
,
it
begins
at
a
Village
called
Latf
,
on
the
West-side
of
Nilus
,
in
going
to
Rosetta
,
about
thirty
miles
from
Alexandria
,
where
the
waters
of
this
Current
run
into
the
Sea
;
therefore
the
Egyptians
reckon
it
amongst
the
true
Mouths
of
the
River
Nilus
.
I
know
not
whether
besides
these
four
there
be
any
other
,
as
Herodotus
and
Strabo
affirm
,
for
they
reckon
about
seven
.
But
Egypt
is
much
alter'd
;
so
that
there
is
no
appearance
nor
remembrance
of
the
seven
Cities
where
they
were
,
as
they
say
.
When
I
was
at
Rosetta
,
I
enquir'd
from
the
Inhabitants
concerning
this
particular
,
but
they
could
not
give
me
any
account
,
but
only
of
these
four
.
Some
told
me
,
that
besides
the
great
Current
at
Damietta
,
there
was
another
artificial
Channel
at
Gaza
,
where
the
waters
did
run
into
the
Sea
,
but
I
cannot
believe
it
:
but
if
this
were
true
,
Gaza
is
not
in
Egypt
;
therefore
it
cannot
be
one
of
the
seven
Mouths
of
the
River
Nilus
spoken
of
by
the
Ancient
Geographers
.
I
could
wish
that
some
other
curious
Traveller
would
enquire
them
out
,
and
tell
us
the
truth
.
This
is
remarkable
of
Nilus
:
1.
That
it
begins
to
increase
and
decrease
on
a
certain
day
precisely
.
2.
That
when
it
first
increaseth
it
grows
green
.
3.
That
afterwards
it
appears
red
;
and
4.
That
it
changeth
its
Channel
sometimes
.
The
day
in
which
it
begins
to
increase
is
yearly
the
12th
of
June
of
the
Copties
,
or
the
17th
day
of
our
June
,
on
which
day
they
observe
the
Feast
of
S.
Michael
the
Arch-Angel
,
on
which
day
the
drops
fall
.
Now
these
drops
are
nothing
else
,
according
to
the
judgment
of
the
Inhabitants
,
but
the
Mercies
and
Blessings
of
God
:
They
believe
on
that
day
God
sends
the
Arch-Angel
S.
Michael
to
cause
the
River
to
be
fruitful
.
This
is
the
common
Opinion
of
the
people
:
But
the
Learned
say
,
that
these
drops
is
a
kind
of
a
Dew
which
falls
towards
the
last
quarter
of
the
night
,
near
the
morning
;
and
which
causeth
the
River
to
be
fruitful
,
purifies
the
Air
from
all
the
infection
of
Cumsin
,
and
gives
strength
and
vertue
to
all
things
upon
which
it
falls
.
These
drops
are
doubtless
the
only
cause
of
the
fruitfulness
of
Nilus
:
this
is
easily
seen
;
for
as
soon
as
this
Dew
is
fallen
,
the
water
begins
to
be
corrupt
,
and
to
be
of
a
greenish
colour
;
this
colour
increaseth
more
and
more
,
till
the
River
appears
as
a
Lake
cover'd
all
over
with
Moss
.
This
colour
is
to
be
seen
not
only
in
its
great
Channel
,
but
also
in
all
the
Ponds
and
Branches
that
come
from
thence
,
only
the
Cisterns
keep
the
water
pure
.
Some
years
this
green
colour
continues
about
20
days
,
and
sometimes
more
,
but
never
above
40.
The
Egyptians
call
this
time
,
when
the
River
is
green
,
il
chad
raviat
,
for
they
suffer
much
,
because
the
water
is
corrupt
,
without
taste
,
and
unwholesome
,
and
that
good
water
is
very
rare
.
These
drops
or
Dew
purifies
the
Air
,
for
as
soon
as
it
falls
,
the
Plague
ceaseth
to
be
mortal
,
none
dies
of
it
;
the
Air
is
wholesome
,
all
Distempers
cease
,
and
if
any
person
grows
sick
,
he
never
dies
.
This
Dew
gives
life
to
every
thing
;
and
when
it
falls
upon
the
Wheat
,
it
causeth
it
to
continue
many
years
without
corruption
,
or
worms
,
and
is
far
more
nourishing
than
that
Corn
upon
which
it
never
falls
;
For
this
cause
they
never
house
the
Corn
of
the
Grand
Seignior
in
the
Barns
,
till
this
Dew
is
fallen
upon
it
,
that
it
might
keep
the
longer
without
worms
.
The
increase
of
the
River
proceeds
from
several
causes
;
the
first
and
the
chief
is
,
the
fermentation
caused
in
it
by
this
Dew
,
which
falls
at
the
time
mentioned
before
.
The
continual
Rains
of
Ethiopia
,
that
come
in
July
,
August
,
and
September
,
which
is
the
Winter-quarter
of
that
Country
,
and
the
great
Torrents
of
water
that
run
down
from
the
Mountains
into
the
Rivers
that
flow
into
Nilus
,
may
be
look'd
upon
as
another
cause
of
this
increase
,
for
I
cannot
conceive
that
the
fermentation
can
continue
100
days
,
and
cause
it
alone
to
increase
so
much
as
it
is
wont
.
The
third
cause
,
in
my
judgment
,
are
the
Westerly
winds
,
called
Maestrals
,
and
by
the
Egyptians
Maltem
,
which
begin
to
blow
,
as
I
have
said
,
about
12
days
before
the
Dew
falls
;
namely
,
the
fifth
day
of
June
,
and
continue
afterwards
about
four
Months
without
alteration
.
They
blow
strait
into
the
River
Nilus
,
and
hinder
the
fresh
water
from
coming
out
,
so
that
it
returns
back
,
and
causeth
the
River
to
swell
.
These
same
Winds
have
caused
several
Travellers
,
and
namely
Monsieur
Burattini
to
affirm
,
that
the
River
observes
not
a
precise
day
to
increase
,
but
that
it
happens
some
years
sooner
,
others
later
;
because
before
the
17th
day
of
June
,
the
water
did
seem
to
swell
;
but
this
is
no
real
increase
,
the
winds
Maestrals
are
the
causes
of
this
appearance
.
The
Ancient
Egyptians
ascrib'd
the
cause
of
the
swelling
of
Nilus
to
a
superstitious
custom
.
They
bought
a
young
Damosel
,
adorned
her
with
rich
attire
,
and
afterward
cast
her
as
a
Sacrifice
into
the
River
,
on
the
12th
day
of
their
Baony
,
or
June
:
But
when
Amru-ibn
il
ass
had
conquer'd
Egypt
,
and
taken
it
from
the
Greeks
,
he
abolish'd
this
damnable
Custom
;
which
was
observed
in
that
time
,
as
Gaznevi
a
famous
Arabian
Historian
saith
.
Amru
commanded
the
Egyptians
to
forbear
and
leave
that
act
of
cruelty
;
in
that
year
it
happen'd
that
the
River
did
not
increase
,
which
caus'd
the
people
to
suspect
and
fear
a
great
Famine
,
insomuch
that
they
resolved
to
depart
out
of
the
Kingdom
.
This
caused
Amru
ibn
il
ass
to
write
to
Amru
ibn
il
Chottab
,
a
Califf
of
Mahomet
,
to
desire
his
advice
.
This
Califf
sent
him
a
Letter
written
with
his
own
hand
for
the
River
Nilus
,
commanding
him
to
read
it
,
and
to
cast
it
into
the
water
;
which
as
soon
as
Amru
had
performed
,
the
waters
rose
16
Cubits
in
one
night
,
the
14th
of
September
,
which
is
commonly
the
last
day
of
its
increase
.
This
was
sufficient
to
water
the
Country
,
and
satisfie
the
people
.
Some
of
the
Country
that
are
ignorant
of
the
true
causes
of
this
increase
,
imagine
that
it
proceeds
from
a
large
Pond
in
Ethiopia
,
in
the
River
it self
,
which
the
Abyssins
begin
to
open
about
the
12th
of
June
,
and
by
degrees
let
out
the
water
more
and
more
,
till
the
14th
of
September
,
at
which
time
they
begin
to
shut
it
again
;
but
this
is
a
foolish
fancy
of
the
Copties
.
As
soon
as
the
green
colour
is
gone
,
the
River
Nilus
begins
to
become
red
,
and
very
muddy
;
't
is
then
no
doubt
but
the
fermentation
is
pass'd
,
and
that
the
waters
of
Ethiopia
are
arriv'd
in
Egypt
,
which
are
of
that
colour
,
because
of
the
red
Earth
which
the
furious
torrents
from
the
Mountains
carry
into
the
River
;
for
it
is
not
possible
that
the
Land
of
Egypt
,
which
is
very
black
,
should
give
it
that
colour
.
In
the
year
1673.
in
the
beginning
of
July
,
the
water
began
to
be
red
,
which
continued
till
the
end
of
December
,
the
time
that
the
River
returns
to
its
ordinary
bigness
.
They
have
an
art
to
make
this
muddy
water
as
clear
as
Crystal
.
As
soon
as
the
Water-bearers
have
fill'd
their
Vessels
,
they
rub
them
in
the
inside
with
a
Paste
made
with
pounded
Almonds
,
which
causeth
the
water
to
become
in
a
short
time
very
clear
.
In
the
places
where
this
Paste
is
not
to
be
found
,
they
use
for
that
purpose
the
Kernels
of
Apricocks
,
pounded
in
the
same
manner
.
I
was
told
,
that
the
Flower
of
little
Beans
could
perform
the
same
effect
.
The
Egyptians
believe
,
that
the
River
Nilus
decreaseth
also
at
a
certain
day
;
namely
,
the
17th
of
their
September
,
and
the
24th
of
ours
,
the
day
which
they
observe
in
remembrance
of
the
Exaltation
of
the
Holy
Cross
.
They
are
so
fully
perswaded
of
it
,
that
if
any
should
deny
it
,
he
would
be
look'd
upon
as
ridiculous
.
The
occasion
of
this
belief
,
as
I
conceive
,
is
,
First
,
Because
the
next
day
after
this
Festival
,
all
the
Banks
and
Stoppages
of
the
River
,
on
this
side
the
Cairo
,
which
were
before
kept
shut
,
and
guarded
by
armed
men
,
that
such
as
need
the
water
for
their
grounds
might
not
open
them
,
are
cut
and
removed
,
and
the
water
let
into
the
Country
.
By
this
means
the
River
spreads
abroad
more
than
before
,
and
its
water
returns
not
back
,
which
makes
them
say
,
that
it
riseth
and
swells
no
more
.
Secondly
,
Because
the
day
after
the
Holy
Cross
,
they
do
not
take
notice
of
its
increase
at
the
Pillar
of
Mikias
,
nor
publish
it
about
the
Town
,
as
before
;
they
believe
therefore
that
this
is
done
,
because
the
River
never
increaseth
after
.
Thirdly
,
Because
when
the
seasons
of
the
year
in
Egypt
are
regular
,
the
winds
Maestrals
that
help
to
make
the
River
swell
,
cease
after
the
17th
of
September
,
and
the
Southerly
winds
rise
,
driving
the
waters
out
of
the
Fields
.
Though
these
reasons
appear
strong
enough
,
to
prove
the
Opinion
of
the
Copties
,
one
cannot
without
offending
them
say
,
that
the
River
may
yet
increase
after
that
day
,
because
the
winds
Maestrals
,
and
the
rains
of
Ethiopia
,
may
some
years
continue
a
longer
time
than
ordinary
,
and
so
the
River
may
increase
a
little
,
not
to
be
perceived
:
for
these
winds
have
blown
till
the
Month
of
November
.
In
the
year
1672.
at
the
Calliz
of
Cairo
it
was
visible
,
that
the
water
was
risen
three
fingers
higher
than
the
day
before
,
in
the
night
of
the
Exaltation
of
the
Holy
Cross
.
It
may
be
said
,
that
this
increase
was
not
real
,
but
only
caused
by
some
stoppage
at
the
passage
of
the
River
,
or
at
one
of
the
Bridges
of
the
Channel
out
of
the
City
:
For
my
part
,
let
every
one
believe
what
seems
most
likely
.
From
hence
we
may
see
how
much
some
Travellers
have
been
mistaken
,
when
they
have
endeavoured
to
perswade
us
,
that
the
River
Nilus
never
increaseth
above
40
days
:
For
if
you
reckon
the
beginning
of
its
increase
,
from
the
17th
of
June
till
the
14th
of
Septemb.
the
day
of
its
decrease
,
you
shall
find
that
it
increaseth
during
100
days
at
least
.
There
cannot
be
a
greater
Testimony
of
this
,
than
the
Custom
of
the
Copties
,
who
in
their
Rubrick
have
a
form
of
prayer
for
the
increase
of
the
River
,
which
they
say
from
the
12th
day
of
Baoni
,
or
June
,
till
the
8th
of
Babe
,
or
October
,
which
is
in
all
120
days
.
In
which
prayer
they
desire
,
that
God
would
cause
the
River
to
rise
to
its
necessary
height
,
to
water
sufficiently
the
Country
,
as
Abulbaracat
,
a
famous
Author
amongst
the
Copties
,
saith
in
his
work
called
Mosbah
iddolme
,
which
I
have
brought
from
Egypt
.
The
Copties
altogether
ignorant
,
ascribe
this
ordinary
decrease
to
a
Miracle
.
They
observe
the
Festival
of
the
Exaltation
of
the
Holy
Cross
,
at
which
time
they
bless
a
Cross
at
the
Celebration
of
the
Mass
,
which
they
cast
into
Nilus
,
and
imagine
that
this
Cross
stops
the
increase
of
the
River
.
Their
Patriarch
was
wont
to
perform
this
Ceremony
with
great
pomp
and
state
;
but
because
the
Mahumetans
suffer
them
not
to
go
in
Procession
about
the
Cities
publickly
,
their
Priests
observe
this
Custom
every
one
in
his
own
Village
.
The
waters
of
this
River
have
several
Operations
.
1.
They
cause
a
Looseness
to
the
new-comers
,
if
they
drink
of
them
at
their
first
arrival
,
which
continues
about
eight
days
.
2.
They
cause
an
itch
in
the
skin
,
which
troubles
such
as
drink
of
them
when
the
River
increases
.
This
itch
is
very
small
,
and
appears
first
about
the
Arms
,
next
upon
the
Stomach
,
and
spreads
all
about
the
Body
,
which
causeth
a
grievous
pain
.
This
Itch
comes
not
only
upon
such
as
drink
of
the
River
,
but
such
as
drink
of
the
waters
of
the
Cisterns
filled
with
the
River
water
.
It
lasts
about
six
Weeks
.
3.
About
the
Month
of
June
,
July
,
August
,
and
September
,
it
turns
into
a
swet
,
but
is
not
so
in
any
other
time
of
the
year
.
4.
When
this
water
covers
the
Earth
,
it
fats
the
Land
with
the
slime
that
it
leaves
behind
.
Monsieur
Th.
is
mistaken
in
his
Travels
into
the
Levant
,
when
he
saith
,
that
this
slime
makes
the
ground
so
fat
,
that
if
they
did
not
mingle
Sand
with
it
,
the
ground
would
rot
,
and
choak
what
is
put
into
it
;
and
that
in
Egypt
they
take
as
much
pains
to
carry
Sand
into
the
ground
,
as
we
do
to
carry
dung
.
This
is
not
generally
so
;
for
they
never
use
Sand
,
but
for
Melons
,
Cucumbers
,
and
such
like
Fruits
,
which
grow
only
in
sandy
ground
;
they
never
use
Sand
for
other
Fruits
and
Grains
.
When
the
River
runs
over
,
it
makes
a
great
destruction
;
it
carries
away
not
only
great
pieces
of
the
Bank
,
but
destroys
sometimes
Towns
and
Villages
near
to
it
.
This
may
easily
be
perceived
by
the
ruines
of
the
Houses
,
and
the
old
Walls
,
seen
all
along
the
sides
of
the
River
.
Sometimes
it
alters
its
Channel
.
I
have
read
in
the
Mekkin
,
an
Arabian
Historian
,
that
about
the
time
that
the
Arabians
conquer'd
Egypt
,
the
water
was
so
high
,
as
to
touch
the
Walls
of
the
Cassr
Isscémma
,
a
part
of
the
old
Cairo
;
and
that
it
ran
near
the
Church
of
Mary
Moncure
,
which
is
in
that
of
the
Patriarchs
,
in
the
Street
called
in
that
time
Háret
il
bahr
,
The
Street
of
the
River
;
whereas
now
it
is
above
a
mile
off
from
this
place
.
One
day
as
I
was
walking
out
of
the
old
Cairo
in
the
Fields
,
near
the
Church
of
S.
Michael
,
the
Copties
shewed
me
a
Garden
near
adjoyning
,
which
was
about
10
years
ago
upon
the
Banks
of
the
River
,
but
at
present
it
is
above
a
Musket
shot
off
,
because
the
River
hath
taken
as
much
ground
on
the
other
side
,
as
it
hath
lest
on
this
.
Now
let
us
see
whether
the
Kings
of
Ethiopia
are
able
to
divert
the
course
of
the
River
,
and
cause
all
the
Inhabitants
to
perish
with
hunger
,
as
some
imagine
.
I
am
of
this
Opinion
,
though
the
Father
Telles
supposeth
and
alledgeth
many
difficulties
in
his
History
of
Ethiopia
.
These
are
the
Reasons
that
oblige
me
to
believe
it
possible
.
1.
A
Letter
of
David
,
King
of
Ethiopia
,
sirnamed
Constantine
,
written
to
Abu
seid
Barcúk
,
King
of
Egypt
,
in
the
year
of
the
Martyrs
,
1193.
I
have
a
Copy
of
it
written
in
Arabick
,
in
which
he
threatens
him
in
two
distinct
places
of
his
Letter
,
to
turn
aside
the
River
Nilus
,
and
hinder
it
from
entering
into
Egypt
,
to
cause
all
the
Inhabitants
to
perish
with
hunger
,
if
he
continues
to
vex
the
Copties
,
whom
he
names
his
Brethren
.
He
saith
,
that
he
hath
received
from
God
this
priviledge
,
which
he
had
not
discover'd
to
any
of
his
Predecessors
.
2.
Because
the
Kings
of
Ethiopia
have
hindred
the
Current
of
Nilus
,
and
turn'd
it
out
of
Egypt
,
in
the
days
of
Mostansir
,
one
of
the
Califfes
of
Egypt
;
which
obliged
him
to
send
the
Patriarch
of
the
Copties
with
rich
Presents
to
the
King
of
Ethiopia
,
to
intreat
him
to
take
away
the
Bank
which
he
had
raised
to
turn
aside
the
River
.
The
King
of
Ethiopia
having
granted
him
this
request
for
the
Patriarchs
sake
,
the
River
increased
in
one
night
three
Cubits
,
which
was
sufficient
to
water
the
Fields
with
that
water
that
was
there
before
;
as
we
may
see
in
the
History
of
the
Musulmans
of
George
le
Mekkin
.
The
first
thing
that
Strangers
may
take
notice
of
in
sailing
upon
the
River
,
is
the
great
number
of
Islands
,
whereof
some
be
very
great
,
20
miles
in
compass
:
They
proceed
first
from
the
shipwrack
of
Vessels
that
have
stuck
in
the
mud
.
This
happens
frequently
through
the
unskilfulness
of
the
Mariners
,
and
the
mud
of
the
River
,
the
slowness
of
the
Current
,
the
dirt
and
mire
gathers
immediately
about
any
thing
that
stops
there
;
by
this
means
these
places
increase
into
Islands
.
Almost
every
day
new
Islands
are
discoverable
:
And
because
the
State
of
Egypt
never
chang'd
since
the
Conquest
of
Sultan
Selim
,
and
that
these
Islands
have
been
made
since
,
they
are
not
recorded
in
the
Rolls
of
the
Divan
of
that
time
.
From
hence
it
is
that
they
pay
nothing
to
the
Grand
Seignior
,
but
belong
to
the
Pacha
,
who
lets
them
out
to
the
Casciefs
of
the
Province
,
where
these
Islands
are
scituated
,
or
to
whom
he
pleaseth
.
Several
Pillars
have
been
erected
in
divers
times
to
measure
the
rising
of
the
River
.
The
first
was
at
Menuf
,
or
Memphis
,
built
by
Joseph
Jacobson
.
When
this
fell
to
ruine
,
a
rich
Lady
of
the
Copties
,
named
Deluca
,
erected
two
others
;
one
at
Insine
,
or
Thebe
,
and
the
other
at
Achmin
.
When
this
last
decayed
,
the
Greeks
built
one
at
Cassr
Isscemma
,
whereof
the
Ruines
are
yet
to
be
seen
,
as
some
say
.
Ater
that
Amru
ibn
il
Ass
had
conquered
Egypt
,
he
caused
one
to
be
built
at
Insine
for
the
same
purpose
.
This
remained
entire
till
the
days
of
Abd
il
aziz
ibn
Mervan
,
a
Califf
of
Egypt
,
who
caused
one
to
be
built
at
Helvan
,
a
place
where
he
delighted
to
dwell
.
The
last
of
these
Pillars
stands
in
the
Roude
,
an
Island
,
where
it
remains
to
this
very
day
.
It
was
erected
by
the
Command
of
Azamed
ibn
zid
,
il
Nettuchi
,
as
we
may
see
in
the
Macrizi
,
in
the
Serrur
,
and
other
Arabian
Histories
.
Of
the
Pillar
of
Mikias
,
and
in
what
manner
they
take
notice
of
the
Rivers
increase
.
THE
Name
of
Mikias
,
in
its
right
signification
,
is
nothing
but
a
place
where
something
is
to
be
measured
:
But
when
at
Cairo
Mikias
is
named
,
they
understand
only
the
Pillar
which
is
in
the
Palace
of
the
Roude
,
an
Island
,
which
serves
to
observe
the
increase
of
Nilus
.
This
Island
is
named
Roude
,
or
Garden
,
because
it
is
a
delightful
place
,
and
full
of
many
pleasant
Gardens
.
It
stands
over
against
Grand
Carro
,
from
whence
it
is
distant
about
a
Musket-shot
.
This
Pillar
is
in
the
Palace
of
the
Isle
Roude
;
and
to
come
to
it
,
one
must
pass
by
a
great
and
a
beautiful
Mosquée
:
Therefore
it
is
a
difficult
matter
for
a
Christian
to
see
it
,
because
the
Mahumetans
do
not
suffer
them
to
enter
into
their
Mosquées
,
chiefly
in
Egypt
,
for
they
believe
that
they
would
by
their
entrance
defile
and
profane
them
.
For
this
cause
I
could
not
have
the
liberty
to
see
it
;
therefore
I
cannot
give
any
other
description
than
that
of
Amer
ibn
il
verdi
,
and
of
Macrizi
,
famous
Historians
of
the
Arabians
.
It
is
,
as
they
say
,
of
white
Marble
,
of
an
Octogone
figure
,
standing
in
a
Pond
of
water
,
into
which
the
water
of
Nilus
enters
in
by
a
large
Channel
.
It
is
divided
upon
the
eight
Angles
into
two
and
twenty
Cubits
,
from
the
top
to
the
bottom
:
The
first
is
divided
into
24
equal
parts
,
called
Fingers
;
the
second
is
not
divided
;
the
third
is
divided
as
the
first
;
thus
alternatively
,
till
the
eleventh
Cubit
.
The
first
Cubit
of
the
second
side
is
not
divided
,
the
second
is
divided
into
four
and
twenty
thumbs
,
the
third
is
not
,
thus
,
till
the
eleventh
,
which
with
the
others
,
to
the
bottom
,
are
divided
into
eighteen
fingers
or
thumbs
.
All
the
other
sides
are
divided
in
the
same
manner
;
so
that
all
the
Cubits
which
are
divided
in
a
side
,
answer
to
the
Cubits
which
are
not
divided
in
the
other
side
.
The
increase
of
the
River
is
discerned
from
the
top
to
the
bottom
.
The
Copties
say
that
John
Mekaukes
,
a
famous
Man
of
their
Nation
,
and
a
Governour
of
Egypt
,
for
the
Emperour
Heraclius
,
laid
the
Foundations
of
this
Palace
,
and
of
the
Church
which
is
near
a
Mosquée
.
When
Christianity
flourish'd
in
Egypt
,
it
belong'd
to
one
of
their
Priests
to
examine
the
increase
of
the
River
;
which
action
was
performed
three
hours
after
midnight
,
and
after
Mass
.
This
is
very
likely
.
The
last
Priest
of
the
Copties
that
measured
it
,
was
named
Raddat
,
who
continued
in
that
Office
by
making
himself
a
Mahumetan
,
that
none
but
his
Posterity
might
have
this
Office
.
Ibn
Raddat
,
who
now
executes
this
Function
,
is
descended
from
him
,
and
is
a
Caddi
by
Profession
.
Though
the
Mahumetans
are
Enemies
of
the
Copties
,
they
observe
some
Customes
now
which
were
then
kept
,
when
their
Priests
did
measure
the
River
;
for
they
do
this
about
Even-song
,
that
is
,
about
three
hours
in
the
afternoon
.
They
that
must
examine
the
increase
of
the
River
,
must
be
Cadis
,
or
Judges
,
an
Ecclesiastical
Function
amongst
the
Mahumetans
.
They
do
it
after
they
have
first
purified
themselves
,
and
said
their
prayers
of
the
Even
,
as
the
Copties
after
Mass
.
When
Ibn
Raddat
hath
taken
notice
of
the
number
of
the
Fingers
that
signifie
the
increase
of
the
River
,
he
takes
three
times
the
water
in
the
hollow
of
his
hand
,
and
flings
it
as
often
into
the
air
:
He
repeats
afterwards
the
Chapter
of
Fatha
,
and
departs
with
the
news
of
the
rising
of
the
water
to
the
Pacha
.
On
the
29th
of
June
,
the
Festival
of
the
Apostles
of
S.
Peter
and
S.
Paul
,
they
begin
to
publish
abroad
this
increase
through
the
City
of
Cairo
;
the
manner
of
this
publication
is
sufficiently
describ'd
by
Monsieur
Thevenot
.
This
day
is
the
26th
of
Baoni
,
or
the
June
of
the
Copties
,
which
is
the
Festival
of
the
Angel
Gabriel
.
They
call
this
day
in
their
Language
,
Besciaret
innil
be
Massr
;
or
,
The
day
of
the
publication
of
the
River
Nilus
at
Cairo
.
They
that
are
imployed
in
this
business
,
observe
a
particular
Custom
:
They
never
declare
exactly
the
number
of
the
fingers
of
the
increase
,
but
always
keep
back
some
,
till
the
time
comes
that
the
Calitz
is
to
be
cut
.
For
example
,
if
Nilus
be
increased
ten
fingers
the
first
day
,
they
will
declare
but
seven
or
eight
the
next
day
,
and
will
conceal
three
or
four
:
if
in
another
day
it
increaseth
twelve
fingers
,
they
will
discover
but
eight
or
nine
,
and
keep
back
three
or
four
.
Thus
they
continue
20
days
,
till
the
time
comes
that
the
Bank
is
to
be
cut
that
hinders
the
River
from
running
into
the
Channel
of
Cairo
;
then
they
reveal
some
of
those
fingers
which
they
conceal'd
.
All
which
they
constantly
perform
,
until
the
day
comes
that
they
cry
out
Ouf
Alla
,
that
the
River
is
come
to
its
perfect
increase
to
water
all
the
Fields
of
Egypt
.
They
observe
this
method
,
as
they
say
,
to
cause
more
rejoycing
in
the
people
,
by
discovering
a
great
many
fingers
at
once
,
at
the
time
when
the
Bank
is
cut
.
This
makes
them
expect
a
year
of
Plenty
.
Of
the
Well
of
Argenus
.
I
Have
taken
notice
of
one
particular
thing
concerning
Nilus
,
worthy
of
the
knowledge
of
our
Learned
Wits
,
which
never
any
Traveller
of
Europe
hath
yet
given
any
account
of
.
At
Argenus
,
or
Gernus
,
as
some
call
it
corruptly
,
a
Village
near
Behnese
,
a
Town
scituate
in
the
middle
of
Egypt
,
there
is
a
Monastery
of
Copties
,
with
a
Church
dedicated
to
the
Blessed
Virgin
,
where
there
is
a
Well
whereof
the
waters
increase
and
swell
every
year
,
that
same
night
in
which
the
Dew
falls
,
in
such
a
manner
,
that
from
thence
it
is
easie
to
gather
how
many
Cubits
the
River
will
rise
that
year
above
sixteen
.
To
know
this
,
they
observe
this
Custom
.
The
Evening
before
the
Dew
falls
,
the
Cadi
,
together
with
the
Elder
of
this
Town
,
goes
to
the
Church
with
a
little
Cord
of
Cotton
,
having
eight
knots
distant
from
one
another
about
a
thumb
;
at
the
end
there
is
a
piece
of
Lead
,
which
they
let
down
into
the
Well
in
the
presence
of
a
crowd
of
people
.
As
soon
as
the
Lead
touches
the
top
of
the
water
,
they
tye
the
string
,
and
stop
the
Well
,
sealing
it
with
their
Seal
:
Afterwards
they
go
to
the
Church
,
and
continue
there
till
the
morning
,
at
which
time
they
examine
how
much
the
water
is
risen
that
night
,
for
at
break
of
day
they
take
away
the
Seal
,
they
open
the
Well
,
and
draw
up
the
Cord.
Now
by
the
rising
of
the
water
in
the
Well
,
and
the
number
of
the
knots
that
are
wet
,
they
can
Prognosticate
how
many
Cubits
the
River
will
rise
that
year
above
sixteen
.
They
reckon
a
Cubit
for
every
knot
that
is
wet
:
For
example
,
if
there
be
four
knots
wet
,
they
understand
that
the
River
will
rise
four
Cubits
that
year
,
that
is
in
all
twenty
;
so
they
judge
of
the
rest
.
Nevertheless
,
I
know
not
whether
this
be
true
,
or
whether
it
be
but
a
Cheat
,
as
the
late
holy
Greek
at
Jerusalem
of
Easter-Eve
,
as
the
appearing
of
the
Saints
at
Gemiane
.
I
could
not
go
upon
the
place
to
observe
this
passage
;
yet
I
can
say
,
that
all
the
Historians
of
Arabia
speak
of
it
as
most
true
;
as
we
may
see
in
George
le
Mekkin
,
which
is
in
the
Kings
Library
.
Of
the
Fishes
of
the
River
Nilus
.
THe
chief
Fishes
found
in
this
River
,
which
I
am
acquainted
with
,
here
follow
.
The
Fish
called
Variole
is
the
best
;
some
are
taken
weighing
three
hundred
pounds
:
next
is
the
Buni
,
and
the
Houd
;
the
latter
is
without
Scales
,
the
Flesh
is
of
no
good
taste
,
because
it
is
greasie
and
soft
.
Here
are
also
other
Fishes
,
called
Keschue
,
Abeide
,
Mischt
,
Taaban-me
,
or
Eels
,
Lebis
,
Schilan
,
the
Crocodile
,
Kersche
,
Tirse
,
Buri
,
or
Mullet
,
which
they
pickle
,
Kelbe
me
,
or
the
Sea-dog
.
The
Bulti
next
to
the
Variole
is
the
best
Fish
of
Nilus
,
it
hath
Scales
.
There
is
also
the
Feres-me
,
or
the
Sea-horse
,
the
Sebuga
,
the
Focaca
,
or
the
Orbis
marinus
,
which
turns
himself
round
when
he
sports
in
the
water
.
There
is
also
the
Reade
,
or
the
Cramp-fish
.
All
these
Fish
are
not
so
pleasing
to
the
taste
as
the
Variole
,
or
the
Bulti
,
because
the
flesh
is
soft
,
which
proceeds
from
the
mud
of
the
River
.
Of
the
Crocodile
.
THE
Crocodile
,
in
Arabick
called
Timsáh
,
is
the
most
remarkable
and
most
curious
Animal
belonging
to
the
River
Nilus
.
I
have
therefore
thought
that
it
deserv'd
a
particular
Description
amongst
the
Fishes
of
this
Current
.
That
it
might
be
the
more
punctual
and
exact
,
I
shall
first
repeat
what
Pliny
saith
,
and
afterwards
add
what
I
have
taken
notice
of
.
This
Learned
Naturalist
tells
us
that
The
Crocodile
is
an
Animal
with
four
Legs
that
makes
a
grievous
destruction
both
in
the
Water
,
and
out
upon
the
Land
.
Of
all
the
Creatures
that
live
upon
the
Earth
,
this
alone
is
without
a
Tongue
,
and
this
alone
moves
the
upper-jaw
in
eating
.
It
hath
two
ranks
of
great
Teeth
,
and
commonly
it
is
longer
than
18
Cubits
.
It
produceth
Eggs
about
the
bigness
of
a
Goose-Egg
,
that
it
sits
upon
them
out
of
the
Water
,
and
lays
them
at
the
place
unto
which
the
Water
is
to
rise
that
Year
,
when
it
is
at
its
highest
;
as
if
it
had
a
knowledge
of
this
before-hand
.
It
is
the
only
Creature
that
riseth
from
such
a
small
beginning
,
to
such
a
prodigious
bigness
.
It
is
Armed
with
Claws
to
defend
it self
.
It
s
Skin
on
the
Back
is
so
extraordinary
hard
that
no
Weapon
,
never
so
sharp
,
is
able
to
enter
it
.
In
the
Day-time
it
lies
upon
the
Ground
,
and
spends
the
Nights
in
the
Waters
.
When
its
Belly
is
very
full
,
it
sleeps
upon
the
Bank
with
its
Mouth
open
;
then
there
comes
a
little
Bird
,
named
Trochilos
,
To
eat
the
remains
of
the
devoured
Prey
which
sticks
between
the
Teeth
:
with
this
Food
it
nourishes
it self
,
and
by
the
picking
of
the
Teeth
it
gives
the
Crocodile
a
pleasure
,
which
causeth
him
to
fall
asleep
in
this
posture
.
At
that
time
the
Ichneumon
takes
notice
of
the
Crocodile
at
a
distance
,
and
when
it
sees
its
time
it
enters
into
the
others
Mouth
,
slides
down
the
Throat
into
the
Belly
,
and
gnaws
the
Entrails
;
with
this
the
Crocodile
dies
.
In
the
River
Nilus
are
also
,
as
he
saith
,
Dolphins
which
have
a
very
sharp
Back
,
with
which
they
kill
the
Crodiles
that
pursue
them
continually
.
For
that
purpose
these
Dolphins
seem
to
be
afraid
of
the
ravenous
Beast
,
which
causeth
them
to
hide
themselves
in
the
Waters
under
the
Crocodiles
;
then
,
with
their
sharp
backs
,
they
rip
open
the
others
belly
.
This
Creature
,
saith
he
,
is
very
bold
and
daring
to
them
that
run
from
it
,
but
timerous
and
fearful
if
it
be
pursued
.
It
is
very
weak-sighted
in
the
Water
,
but
out
of
the
Water
it
is
quick
.
In
the
Winter
it
spends
four
Months
in
some
Cave
,
without
eating
.
It
lives
long
,
and
grows
continually
till
it
dies
.
This
is
the
account
that
Pliny
gives
of
the
Crocodile
.
We
will
a
little
examine
what
he
saith
,
and
to
that
we
shall
add
our
own
observations
.
It
is
true
that
the
Crocodile
is
a
very
dreadful
Creature
in
Egypt
,
because
of
the
great
destructions
that
it
makes
in
the
Water
,
and
out
;
for
it
devours
not
only
all
the
Fish
that
it
can
catch
in
the
River
,
but
also
the
Camels
,
the
Horses
,
the
Sheep
,
the
wild
Beeves
,
the
Dogs
,
and
little
Children
.
In
short
,
all
that
it
can
catch
upon
the
Land
,
it
draws
into
the
River
,
and
eats
it
.
Concerning
its
length
,
which
Pliny
saith
is
commonly
above
18
Cubits
,
I
must
needs
confess
that
I
know
not
how
many
Inches
are
his
Cubits
;
for
,
many
Hunters
of
Crocodiles
have
assured
me
that
it
grows
never
above
a
Cubit
in
length
in
a
Year
;
and
when
it
comes
to
twelve
years
old
it
grows
no
more
:
so
that
,
according
to
this
account
,
the
longest
Crocodile
is
not
above
12
Cubits
in
length
.
If
this
be
true
,
the
Arabian
Author
,
whom
Ibn
Beitar
mentions
in
his
Book
of
Animals
and
Plants
,
is
mistaken
,
when
he
saith
,
that
there
are
some
Crocodiles
that
have
their
Tails
6
Cubits
long
,
their
Head
two
,
and
the
rest
of
their
Body
8.
The
Eggs
that
he
lays
,
which
are
sometimes
in
Number
30
,
never
100
,
as
a
certain
Traveller
affirms
,
are
as
big
as
the
Eggs
of
Austriches
;
three-times
bigger
than
Geese-Eggs
.
As
soon
as
they
are
out
of
its
Body
,
it
carries
them
into
some
Island
of
Nilus
,
and
puts
them
into
a
hole
made
with
its
fore-feet
,
it
covers
them
with
Sand
,
and
smooths
the
place
where
they
lye
that
no
Person
might
discover
them
.
In
this
condition
it
leaves
them
,
till
by
a
natural
Instinct
it
knows
that
the
young
are
formed
.
It
goes
then
and
opens
the
hole
and
breaks
the
shell
with
its
Musle
for
the
young
to
creep
out
.
As
soon
as
they
are
in
the
Air
,
they
run
strait
to
the
River
.
And
because
some
of
these
Eggs
are
rotten
,
it
is
from
this
corruption
that
a
certain
Lizard
,
nameed
by
the
Arabs
,
Varal
,
is
ingendred
.
We
shall
speak
of
this
Serpent
in
the
sequel
of
our
Discourse
.
That
which
Pliny
saith
of
the
Trochilos
requires
a
further
inquiry
;
for
one
might
ask
an
hundred
years
in
Egypt
,
what
this
Bird
is
,
and
yet
none
is
able
to
give
an
account
.
Beitar
saith
this
of
it
,
when
the
Crocodile
is
full
with
the
devoured
Prey
,
he
goes
out
of
the
Water
to
sleep
in
the
Sun
;
and
because
its
Teeth
are
full
of
slime
and
filth
,
in
which
the
Worms
are
ingendred
;
a
certain
Bird
,
as
little
as
a
Teitavi
,
enters
between
his
Jaws
,
eats
up
the
slime
,
and
the
Worms
,
if
there
be
any
;
and
when
the
Crocodile
feels
that
all
is
clean
,
he
shuts
his
Mouth
to
eat
the
Bird
also
.
But
Nature
hath
provided
an
expedient
to
secure
it
;
there
are
two
sharp
pricks
on
the
top
of
the
Birds
Head
,
which
when
the
Crocodile
feels
,
he
opens
his
Jaws
again
for
the
Bird
to
escape
out
.
I
inquired
from
several
Moors
,
whether
they
knew
any
Bird
that
had
any
pricks
on
the
Head
?
They
answered
,
they
knew
none
.
They
told
me
,
that
there
is
in
Egypt
the
Saksak
,
a
Bird
that
keeps
the
Crocodile
always
company
,
which
I
have
seen
very
often
,
and
which
lives
upon
the
filth
that
sticks
about
,
and
between
,
the
Crocodile's
Teeth
.
Whether
therefore
the
Saksak
of
the
Moors
,
and
the
Bird
mentioned
by
Beitar
,
be
the
Trochilos
of
Pliny
,
I
leave
to
the
Reader
to
judge
.
Concernining
the
Ichneumon
,
named
by
the
Arabians
,
Nims
,
by
the
Italians
,
Sorca
di
faraone
,
and
by
the
French-men
,
Rat
d'
Egypte
.
It
is
very
true
that
it
creeps
into
the
Mouth
of
the
Crocodile
,
enters
into
its
Belly
,
which
it
gnaws
to
the
very
Entrails
;
the
like
happens
to
the
Camels
,
and
wild
Beeves
,
and
other
Animals
,
when
they
sleep
in
the
Fields
.
That
which
Pliny
speaks
concerning
the
Dolphins
is
not
likely
,
for
there
be
none
in
the
River
.
But
it
may
be
it
is
the
Tirse
,
which
is
the
only
Fish
that
assaults
the
Crocodile
.
This
Tirse
is
as
round
as
a
Buckler
which
eats
the
young
Crocodiles
when
it
can
meet
them
.
That
the
Crocodiles
can
live
a
long
while
without
eating
,
as
Pliny
saith
,
is
a
truth
which
I
have
seen
by
experience
by
two
that
I
have
kept
alive
a
long
while
.
I
had
one
in
my
Closet
about
a
Foot
long
,
and
another
six
in
my
Cellar
.
I
caused
the
latter
to
be
tied
with
a
great
Cord
about
the
Jaws
,
that
it
might
not
offend
such
as
came
to
see
it
.
They
lived
both
about
a
Month
without
eating
.
The
Moors
told
me
that
they
could
subsist
forty
days
without
any
nourishment
.
They
have
,
in
all
,
three-score
and
twelve
great
Teeth
,
very
sharp
;
six
and
thirty
in
the
upper-jaw
,
and
as
many
in
the
lower
:
So
that
Ibn
Beitar
is
mistaken
,
when
he
saith
in
his
History
of
Animals
,
which
I
have
sent
to
the
King's
Library
,
that
they
have
threescore
in
the
upper-jaw
,
and
forty
in
the
lower
;
and
that
between
every
two
sharp
and
great
Teeth
,
there
is
one
square
and
little
one
;
for
I
have
seen
many
alive
and
dead
,
but
have
never
found
this
difference
in
the
Teeth
,
but
rather
I
have
always
found
them
to
be
sharp
and
uniform
.
It
s
four
Paws
are
furnished
with
great
Hooks
,
or
Claws
,
very
sharp
;
the
two
Fore-feet
having
five
distinct
,
separated
the
one
from
the
other
;
the
two
hinder
but
four
,
which
are
all
joined
together
by
a
very
thin
skin
,
as
are
the
Feet
of
all
Sea-fowl
,
as
Geese
and
Ducks
.
The
Arabian
Authors
say
,
That
it
casts
out
its
Excrements
by
the
Throat
,
because
it
hath
no
hole
under
the
Tail
,
and
its
Stones
have
the
smell
of
Musk
;
but
as
I
have
had
no
experience
neither
of
one
nor
t'other
,
I
refer
my self
to
their
Relation
.
Because
the
Crocodile
cannot
well
turn
it self
upon
the
Belly
when
it
lies
upon
the
Back
,
and
that
it
is
needful
that
the
Female
be
in
that
posture
when
the
Male
covers
her
.
The
Male
takes
care
when
he
hath
laid
her
upon
her
Back
and
performed
his
duty
,
to
turn
her
again
upon
her
Belly
,
for
fear
of
the
Hunters
.
I
have
also
taken
notice
,
that
from
the
City
Cairo
,
towards
the
upper
Egypt
,
there
are
many
Crocodiles
to
be
found
,
where
they
do
much
mischief
;
but
from
thence
towards
the
lower
Egypt
are
very
few
,
and
they
say
,
that
they
be
not
dangerous
.
The
Moors
give
two
Reasons
of
this
;
they
say
,
That
one
of
their
Saints
,
named
Sidi
Ibrahim
il
Zuphi
,
or
The
Lord
Abraham
of
Zug
,
hath
conjur'd
them
to
hinder
them
from
passing
beyond
the
City
Cairo
,
and
bound
them
to
hurt
no
body
.
The
other
Reason
is
,
as
they
say
,
because
under
the
Pillar
or
Mikias
there
is
a
Talisman
that
kills
them
as
soon
as
they
draw
near
.
But
it
is
most
certain
that
there
are
some
on
this
side
the
Cairo
to
be
seen
,
though
not
so
frequently
as
on
the
other
.
This
proceeds
,
as
they
say
,
from
the
Talisman
that
is
turn'd
up-side
down
in
this
Pillar
,
and
therefore
loseth
its
greatest
vertue
;
therefore
they
can
pass
beyond
it
,
swimming
upon
their
Backs
.
An
exact
Account
of
all
the
Pacha's
that
have
Govern'd
Egypt
since
Sultan
Selim
,
who
took
it
from
the
Mammeluc
Circassians
,
till
the
year
1673.
I
Think
that
this
general
Description
of
Egypt
would
be
imperfect
,
did
I
not
add
a
List
of
all
the
Pacha's
,
or
Turkish
Rulers
,
that
have
Govern'd
Egypt
till
this
present
time
,
since
Sultan
Selim
gain'd
it
with
his
Sword
from
the
Circassians
.
I
have
taken
it
from
an
Arabian
Historian
of
good
credit
,
named
il
Serrûr
;
I
have
brought
his
Book
from
Egypt
.
The
first
Pacha
that
Sultan
Selim
made
himself
,
before
his
departure
out
of
Egypt
,
was
nam'd
Cheirbek
:
He
Govern'd
five
Years
,
two
Months
,
and
one
and
twenty
Days
.
The
second
was
Mustapha
,
who
entred
into
his
Office
in
the
Year
of
the
Hegeira
,
928
,
and
continued
in
it
nine
Months
,
and
fifteen
Days
.
The
third
was
Ahmed
,
who
Govern'd
Egypt
about
one
Year
.
The
fourth
was
Cassem
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
Year
931
,
and
cashier'd
in
the
following
Year
.
He
Ruled
three
Months
,
and
four
and
twenty
days
only
.
The
fifth
was
Ibrahim
,
who
entred
into
the
Government
in
the
Year
932
,
and
continued
in
it
two
Months
,
and
twenty
four
Days
.
The
sixth
was
Soliman
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
Year
932
,
and
removed
in
the
Year
941.
He
Commanded
nine
Years
,
eleven
Months
,
and
seven
Days
.
The
seventh
was
Cosrof
,
who
began
to
Command
,
as
Pacha
,
in
the
Year
941
,
and
Ruled
one
Year
,
ten
Months
,
and
seven
Days
.
The
eighth
was
Soliman
,
who
was
made
Pacha
the
second
time
,
after
his
return
from
Arabia
,
in
the
Year
943
,
He
Govern'd
afterwards
one
Year
,
five
Months
,
and
one
and
twenty
Days
.
The
ninth
was
Davud
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
Year
945
,
and
cashier'd
in
the
Year
946.
He
Rul'd
eleven
Years
,
ten
Months
,
and
seven
and
twenty
Days
.
The
tenth
was
Ali
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
Year
956
,
and
discharg'd
in
the
Year
961.
He
Rul'd
four
Years
,
five
Months
,
and
twenty
Days
.
The
eleventh
was
Mohammed
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
Year
961
,
and
cashier'd
in
the
Year
963.
The
twelfth
was
Iscander
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
Year
963.
He
Ruled
three
Years
,
three
Months
,
and
ten
Days
.
The
thirteenth
was
Ali
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
Year
966
,
and
cashier'd
in
the
Year
967.
He
Govern'd
one
Year
,
four
Months
,
and
seven
Days
.
The
fourteenth
was
Mustapha
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
Year
967
,
and
discharg'd
in
the
Year
971.
He
Govern'd
three
Years
,
three
Months
,
and
four
and
twenty
Days
.
The
fifteenth
was
Ali
il
Sophi
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
Year
971
,
and
Govern'd
two
Years
,
and
three
Months
.
The
sixteenth
was
Mahmúd
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
Year
973.
He
Govern'd
one
Year
,
seven
Months
,
and
four
and
twenty
Days
.
The
seventeenth
was
Sinan
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
Year
975
,
and
cashier'd
in
the
Year
following
.
He
Rul'd
nine
Months
,
and
a
little
more
.
He
Conquer'd
the
Country
of
Yemen
.
The
eighteenth
was
Cirkes
Alexander
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
Year
976
,
and
Rul'd
two
years
,
six
Months
,
and
seven
days
.
The
nineteenth
was
Sinan
,
who
was
made
Pacha
the
second
time
,
after
his
return
from
the
Country
of
Yemen
,
in
the
Year
979
,
and
discharg'd
in
the
Year
980.
He
Govern'd
one
Year
,
and
ten
Months
.
The
twentieth
was
Hussein
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
Year
981.
He
Govern'd
one
Year
,
and
three
Months
.
The
one
and
twentieth
was
Messieh
,
or
Messie
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
year
982.
and
cashier'd
in
the
year
988.
He
Govern'd
five
years
,
seven
months
,
and
fifteen
days
.
The
two
and
twentieth
was
Hussein
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
year
988
,
and
discharg'd
in
the
year
991.
He
Rul'd
two
years
,
ten
months
,
and
one
day
.
The
three
and
twentieth
was
Ibrahim
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
year
991
,
and
discharg'd
in
the
year
following
.
He
Rul'd
one
year
,
and
five
months
.
The
four
and
twentieth
was
Sinan
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
year
992
,
and
Govern'd
one
year
,
sev●n
months
,
and
twenty
days
.
The
five
and
twentieth
was
Avíz
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
year
994
,
and
died
suddenly
in
the
year
999.
He
Rul'd
five
years
,
five
months
,
and
ten
days
.
The
six
and
twentieth
was
Ahmed
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
year
999
,
and
cashier'd
in
the
year
1003.
He
Rul'd
four
years
,
and
three
days
.
The
seven
and
twentieth
was
Curd
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
year
1003
,
and
discharg'd
in
the
following
year
.
He
Govern'd
one
year
,
and
eight
days
.
The
eight
and
twentieth
was
Mohammed
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
year
1004
,
and
cashier'd
in
the
year
1006.
He
Govern'd
two
years
,
one
month
,
and
twenty
days
.
The
nine
and
twentieth
was
Chidr
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
year
1006.
He
Govern'd
three
years
,
and
twelve
days
.
The
thirtieth
was
Ali
il
Selehtár
,
or
Ali
the
Sword-bearer
of
the
Grand
Seignior
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
year
1010
,
and
cashier'd
in
the
year
1012.
He
Rul'd
two
years
,
and
two
months
.
The
one
and
thirtieth
was
Ibrahim
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
year
1012
,
and
murder'd
the
next
year
at
Cairo
.
He
Govern'd
four
months
,
and
seven
days
only
.
The
two
and
thirtieth
was
Mohammed
il
Gurgi
;
he
was
made
Pacha
in
the
year
1013
,
and
cashier'd
in
the
year
following
.
He
Rul'd
seven
months
,
and
twelve
days
only
.
The
three
and
thirtieth
was
Hussein
,
who
being
Pacha
of
the
Country
of
Yemen
,
was
taken
from
thence
and
made
Pacha
of
Cairo
in
the
year
1014
,
and
put
out
in
the
year
1016.
He
Rul'd
one
year
,
and
eleven
days
.
The
four
and
thirtieth
was
Mohammed
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
year
1016
,
and
cashier'd
in
the
year
1020.
He
Rul'd
four
years
,
four
Months
,
and
twelve
days
.
The
five
and
thirtieth
was
Mohammed
il
Sophi
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
year
1020
,
and
discharg'd
in
the
year
1024.
He
Govern'd
four
years
and
six
days
.
The
six
and
thirtieth
was
Ahmed
,
who
had
been
Testerdar
,
or
Treasurer
,
of
Egypt
;
he
was
made
Pacha
in
the
year
1024
,
and
discharg'd
in
the
year
1027.
He
Govern'd
two
years
,
ten
months
,
and
twelve
days
.
The
seven
and
thirtieth
was
Mustapha
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
year
1027
,
and
cashier'd
in
the
same
year
.
He
Govern'd
eight
months
,
and
nine
days
only
.
The
eight
and
thirtieth
was
Giafer
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
year
1028
,
and
cashier'd
in
the
same
year
.
He
Rul'd
five
months
,
and
fourteen
days
only
.
The
nine
and
thirtieth
was
Mustapha
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
year
1028
,
and
cashier'd
the
next
year
.
He
Rul'd
eleven
months
,
and
twenty
days
.
The
fortieth
was
Hussein
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
year
1029
,
and
discharg'd
in
the
year
1031.
He
Rul'd
one
year
six
months
,
and
two
and
twenty
days
.
The
one
and
fortieth
was
Mohammed
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
year
1031
,
and
cashierd
the
same
year
.
He
Govern'd
only
a
month
and
a
half
.
The
two
and
fortieth
was
Ibrahim
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
year
1031
,
and
put
out
of
his
Office
in
the
year
1032.
He
Rul'd
only
one
year
.
The
three
and
fortieth
●as
Mustapha
,
who
was
made
Pacha
the
year
1032
,
and
cashier'd
in
the
same
year
.
N.
B.
The
Manuscript
is
here
ambiguous
.
The
four
and
fortieth
was
Beiram
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
year
1035
,
and
discharg'd
in
the
year
1038.
He
Rul'd
two
years
,
four
months
,
and
twenty
days
.
The
five
and
fortieth
was
Mohammed
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
year
1038
,
and
cashier'd
in
the
year
1040.
He
Rul'd
two
years
,
and
one
day
.
The
six
and
fortieth
was
Muse
,
or
Moyse
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
year
1040
,
and
cashier'd
the
same
year
,
by
the
Souldiery
of
Cairo
,
when
he
had
Govern'd
the
Country
six
months
,
and
eight
days
only
.
The
seven
and
fortieth
was
Chalil
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
year
1041
,
and
discharg'd
the
next
year
.
He
Rul'd
one
year
,
six
months
,
and
two
days
.
The
eight
and
fortieth
was
Ahmed
,
who
being
Emir
Achour
,
or
Great
Master
of
the
Grand
Seignior's
House
,
was
made
Pacha
in
the
year
1042
,
and
cashier'd
in
the
year
1045.
He
Rul'd
three
years
,
six
months
,
and
three
days
.
The
nine
and
fortieth
was
Hussein
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
year
1045
,
and
cashier'd
in
the
year
1047.
He
Rul'd
one
year
,
and
eleven
months
.
The
fiftieth
was
Mohammed
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
year
1047
,
and
discharg'd
in
the
year
1050.
He
Rul'd
two
years
,
nine
months
,
and
four
days
.
The
one
and
fiftieth
was
Mustapha
,
who
had
been
chief
Gardiner
of
the
Grand
Seignior
,
he
was
made
Pacha
in
the
year
1050
,
and
cashier'd
in
the
year
1052.
He
Govern'd
almost
two
years
.
The
two
and
fiftieth
was
Maksud
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
year
1052
,
and
put
out
the
next
year
.
He
Rul'd
one
year
,
six
months
,
and
eight
days
.
The
three
and
fiftieth
was
Eiiub
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
year
1054
,
and
cashier'd
in
the
year
1056.
The
four
and
fiftieth
was
Mohammed
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
year
1056
,
and
discharg'd
in
the
year
1058.
He
Govern'd
two
years
,
five
months
,
and
seven
and
twenty
days
.
The
five
and
fiftieth
was
Mustapha
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
year
1057.
In
the
same
year
the
former
Mohammed
was
restor'd
.
The
six
and
fiftieth
was
Ahmed
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
year
1059
,
and
cashier'd
in
the
year
1061.
He
Govern'd
full
two
years
.
The
seven
and
fiftieth
was
Abd
il
rahmán
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
year
1061
,
and
cashier'd
the
next
year
.
The
eight
and
fiftieth
was
Mohammed
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
year
1062.
He
Govern'd
Egypt
three
years
,
and
nine
months
.
This
is
die
last
Pacha
mentioned
in
the
Serrúr
.
These
that
follow
,
I
have
taken
them
out
of
the
Memoires
of
a
learned
Person
of
Cairo
.
The
nine
and
fiftieth
was
Mustapha
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
year
1066.
He
Rul'd
one
year
,
and
six
months
.
The
sixtieth
was
Gazi
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
year
1067.
He
Govern'd
three
years
.
The
sixty
first
was
Mustapha
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
year
1070.
He
Rul'd
one
year
.
The
sixty
second
was
Ibrahim
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
year
1071
,
and
continued
in
his
Office
three
years
.
The
sixty
third
was
Omar
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
year
1074.
He
Govern'd
Egypt
two
years
.
In
the
time
of
this
Pacha
I
was
in
Egypt
in
my
first
Voyage
to
Cairo
,
in
the
year
1664.
The
sixty
fourth
was
Ibrahim
,
who
was
made
Pacha
in
the
year
1077.
He
Rul'd
one
year
,
and
four
months
.
The
sixty
fifth
was
Ali
,
who
died
at
Cairo
in
the
year
1079
,
after
that
he
had
Govern'd
,
as
Pacha
,
one
year
.
The
sixty
sixth
was
Ibrahim
,
who
arriv'd
at
Cairo
in
the
year
1081
,
and
was
cashier'd
in
the
year
of
our
Lord
1673
,
when
I
was
in
Egypt
the
second
time
.
If
any
will
see
a
large
Account
of
their
Actions
,
let
them
read
the
Arabian
Historian
,
named
before
,
which
is
very
exact
.
Of
the
Sangiac-Beys
of
Egypt
.
IN
Egypt
,
as
well
as
in
other
Countries
subject
to
the
Grand
Seignior
,
there
are
several
Sangiac-Beys
,
who
be
Governors
of
great
Provinces
.
They
are
so
called
in
the
Turkish
Tongue
from
two
words
,
Sangiac
,
which
signifies
an
Ensign
,
and
Bey
,
a
Prince
;
because
when
the
Grand
Vizier
,
or
the
Pacha
,
makes
them
,
he
delivers
into
their
hands
an
Ensign
,
as
a
mark
of
their
Dignity
.
They
that
may
pretend
to
this
Dignity
are
the
Agas
of
the
Boulouks
,
the
Chieftains
of
the
seven
Orders
of
the
Militia
of
Cairo
,
and
the
Metferracas
.
The
greatest
part
of
these
Lords
are
Meltesimíns
,
or
Farmers
of
the
Provinces
that
they
hold
from
the
Divan
,
at
the
rates
mentioned
in
the
Rolls
:
heretofore
some
Beys
have
Farmed
fourscore
Villages
,
or
Towns
.
They
Lett
these
Villages
to
under
Farmers
,
and
the
usual
Rent
of
every
Town
,
is
known
to
every
one
,
chiefly
to
the
Mebascicríns
,
or
Scrivners
of
the
Copties
.
About
twenty
years
ago
this
honour
was
purchas'd
with
the
expence
of
twenty
Purses
,
or
thirty
:
This
was
called
Chidmet
il
Sangiakie
.
And
as
soon
as
any
Person
was
made
Bey
,
the
Divan
did
allow
him
half
a
Purse
every
Month
,
as
his
Sallary
;
and
when
he
travell'd
to
any
Place
,
for
the
service
of
the
Grand
Seignior
,
at
his
return
to
Cairo
the
Divan
did
give
him
half
a
Purse
more
for
his
Reward
.
In
that
time
these
Beys
wore
in
great
Credit
,
and
Power
;
for
when
they
declar'd
their
opinion
in
the
Divan
,
the
Pacha's
were
afraid
to
contradict
them
.
They
did
sometimes
depose
them
,
when
they
did
not
amend
their
manners
after
a
reproof
.
They
were
wont
to
be
six
and
thirty
in
Number
.
But
now
they
are
a
great
deal
less
,
and
are
reduc'd
to
that
condition
,
that
they
are
not
much
esteem'd
.
This
Honour
now
costs
them
fifteen
Purses
,
and
their
Allowance
given
to
them
by
the
Divan
is
one
thousand
Aspers
every
day
.
So
Aspers
is
4
s.
6
d.
Their
Office
is
,
to
Conduct
the
Hazna
,
or
Treasure
,
of
the
Grand
Seignior
to
Constantinople
,
or
to
Command
the
Caravan
that
travels
towards
Mecha
;
and
to
go
to
War
,
when
required
.
Four
of
them
are
to
watch
always
round
about
Cairo
,
with
a
Company
of
Janissaries
.
The
first
keeps
Guard
at
Adelía
,
where
the
way
leads
to
Sues
;
the
second
at
Caraffa
;
another
at
the
second
Bridge
of
the
Calitz
,
near
its
Mouth
;
another
watches
at
the
old
Cairo
,
to
prevent
Tumults
and
Murders
.
In
the
Year
1672
,
when
I
was
at
Cairo
,
there
were
sixteen
Beys
,
here
be
their
Names
.
Sulfucar
was
Bey
of
Girge
,
but
he
was
cashier'd
in
the
Month
of
September
in
this
Year
.
Jezbee
was
made
Bey
of
Carge
in
his
stead
.
Mohammed
Abu
Sciaváreb
,
or
Mahomet
with
the
great
Whiskers
.
Mohammed
Abu-Gura
.
Gazem
,
Bey
of
Sues
.
Juseph
of
Constantinople
,
who
was
Emir-hag
,
or
Commander
of
the
Caravan
to
Mecha
.
Juseph
of
Cairo
.
Delaver
,
who
carried
the
Grand
Seignior's
Treasure
to
Constantinople
.
Mohammed
il
ghindi
,
who
had
Rented
Bébe
.
Ali.
Omar
,
Hussein
of
Constantinople
.
Canzo
,
who
was
Serdar
,
or
Colonel
.
Torna
Mustapha
,
the
Cascief
of
Dekahlie
.
Eivaz
,
who
had
been
Treasurer
of
Egypt
.
Abdolla
,
who
was
Treasurer
this
Year
1672
,
of
all
Egypt
.
Of
the
Trees
,
Plants
,
and
Birds
of
Egypt
.
I
Shall
now
speak
something
of
the
rarest
Trees
,
Plants
,
and
Birds
of
Egypt
,
which
are
come
to
my
knowledge
;
for
this
belongs
to
the
General
Description
of
this
Country
:
I
shall
afterwards
return
to
my
Journal
.
Of
the
Trees
.
IN
Egypt
are
to
be
found
several
Trees
very
rare
,
which
are
not
in
Europe
.
Lebaca
is
one
which
,
as
the
Copties
Stories
relate
,
worshipped
our
Saviour
Christ
when
he
came
first
to
Ischemunein
,
a
City
scituate
in
the
middle
Egypt
near
Melave
,
towards
the
North.
This
Tree
is
now
very
rare
;
for
I
have
not
seen
any
in
all
my
Travels
.
The
Hilélgie
is
a
great
Tree
full
of
prickles
.
I
have
seen
one
in
the
Monastery
of
Abuhennis
,
scituate
in
the
middle
Egypt
,
almost
over
against
Melave
.
I
was
told
that
it
bears
a
Fruit
like
to
yellow
Dasies
.
The
Sycamore
,
named
by
the
Arabians
,
Gomeize
,
is
one
of
the
ordinary
sort
of
Trees
;
as
also
the
Fig-tree
,
which
is
of
four
sorts
,
1.
The
common
Fig-tree
;
2.
The
Fig-tree
of
Fium
;
3.
Of
Europe
;
4.
Avodlis
.
The
Palm-tree
,
in
Arab.
Temer
,
is
one
of
the
most
vulgar
Trees
;
it
bears
above
fifty
differing
sorts
of
Fruits
.
There
is
also
the
Nebeca
,
a
kind
of
Gum-tree
.
Zante
,
which
is
called
Acacia
.
The
Mastick
,
I
have
seen
too
in
the
Monastery
of
St.
Anthony
.
Carobis
,
Atles
,
and
Tamrhennes
.
There
is
also
a
Tree
called
Seiials
,
a
wild
kind
of
Acacia
.
The
Cinamon-tree
,
named
in
Arab.
Cheiiar
Scembar
.
The
Pomgranate
,
Orange-tree
,
the
Lemon-tree
,
the
Cedar
,
the
Quince-tree
,
the
Sefsafs
,
a
kind
of
Withy
,
the
Apricock
tree
,
the
Almond-tree
,
the
Cypress-tree
.
The
Tree
called
Mocheits
,
or
Sebeste
;
the
Fruit
whereof
is
good
for
Food
,
and
to
make
Glue
.
The
Tree
called
Alats
,
the
Myrhe
,
the
Fig-tree
of
Adam
,
named
in
Arab.
Mouz
.
The
Kebbads
,
a
Tree
that
bears
Oranges
of
a
strange
bigness
.
The
Keffe
Mariam
,
or
the
holy
Virgin
's
Hand
.
The
Doum
,
or
the
Gum-tree
,
is
a
rare
Tree
in
Egypt
;
I
have
never
seen
but
three
in
all
my
Travels
:
one
in
the
Monstery
of
St.
Athanase
,
distant
from
Siut
about
three
hours
travelling
,
towards
the
South
.
In
this
Tree
are
two
things
remarkable
:
1.
That
its
Leaves
burst
forth
only
at
the
end
of
its
Branches
,
and
in
the
thick
Bunches
.
2.
That
they
are
so
equal
,
and
even
at
the
end
of
the
Branches
,
that
to
look
upon
them
one
would
think
that
some
have
cut
,
and
even'd
them
with
Scissers
.
The
Leaves
are
very
thin
and
long
,
and
are
like
the
Leaves
of
the
Palm-tree
.
The
Body
of
this
Tree
hath
many
Branches
of
a
considerable
bigness
,
from
them
proceed
others
of
a
lesser
size
;
every
one
is
forked
,
and
the
end
of
these
Leaves
appear
in
Bunches
,
as
we
have
said
.
Of
the
Plants
.
AMongst
all
the
Curious
Plants
of
Egypt
,
I
have
taken
notice
of
these
following
.
Belsen
is
a
Plant
,
or
Herb
,
that
bears
a
Medicinal
Grain
,
good
to
heal
Wounds
.
Sabbara
;
the
Leaves
whereof
are
very
thick
,
and
full
of
sap
;
there
are
two
sorts
,
the
Male
,
and
the
Female
.
Vudne
is
like
Purslan
,
but
its
Leaves
are
very
great
,
and
its
taste
is
fourish
,
and
it
's
eaten
raw
.
Sedab
,
is
Rue
;
Filfil
,
Garden-Pepper
.
Gesalaht
is
a
Plant
that
grows
as
big
as
a
Tree
.
Verdhomar
is
our
Rosa
asini
.
Morian
is
called
in
Latin
,
Halicacabus
.
Kilu
,
otherwise
named
Alcali
.
Rabl
is
an
Herb
of
a
fragrant
smell
,
full
of
Oyl
;
growing
upon
Hills
.
Barnub
is
a
Plant
that
contains
a
Powder
that
Dyers
use
;
I
shall
speak
of
it
in
the
sequel
of
this
Journal
.
Here
be
also
Jessemins
,
both
single
and
double
.
Katife
,
or
the
Virgins-Bower
,
whereof
there
are
two
sorts
;
the
single
,
and
the
other
named
in
Arab.
Katife
Kodsi
,
or
the
Virgins
Bower
of
Jerusalem
.
Rihan
is
our
Origanum
.
There
are
several
sorts
;
1.
Of
Kodsi
,
or
Jerusalem
:
2.
Sciami
of
Damascus
:
3.
Hindi
of
the
Indies
:
4.
Miski
,
of
the
smell
of
Musk
:
5.
Ascickrihan
,
or
the
lovely
Origanum
.
Leblab
is
another
Plant
,
called
by
the
Italians
,
Convolvolo
;
by
the
French
,
Liseron
,
and
by
the
English
:
Bengiar
,
are
our
Beets
.
Mentur
,
otherwise
named
Chobeize
,
are
our
Mallows
.
Here
are
also
Gilly-flowers
,
Lillies
,
and
Roses
of
all
colours
,
and
in
abundance
.
Merdekusch
is
our
Marjoram
.
Mersciénné
—
Lisan-hammel
is
our
Plantain
.
Lisant
Tor
is
our
Bugloss
.
Neane
,
Mint
:
Bamie
,
and
Meluchie
are
ordinary
Pot-herbs
in
Egypt
.
Amberboy
,
is
Amber
.
Seseban
is
a
tall
Plant
,
sown
about
the
Sugar-Fields
;
it
serves
instead
of
a
Fence
.
Sciebeh
,
is
Rue
of
Rome
.
Cheschach
is
the
Pavots
.
Hendal
,
or
Colocinthis
;
Helbe
,
named
by
the
French
,
Fenugrec
by
the
English
.
They
have
a
Proverb
in
Egypt
,
that
saith
,
Blessed
are
the
Feet
that
walk
upon
that
Ground
where
the
Helbe
is
sown
.
They
eat
it
raw
,
and
sodden
.
Carrots
,
called
in
Arab.
Gissr
,
are
no
bigger
than
Radishes
.
Succory
,
called
in
Arab.
Hindibe
.
Lettuce
,
called
Chas
Melieh
.
Pease
.
Tormus
,
are
Lupins
.
Bersim
,
or
Sinfoin
.
Il
Nile
,
is
Indigo
.
Scich
,
is
Absynthium
Ponticum
.
Gabbar
was
an
Herb
that
I
found
in
abundance
upon
the
Mountains
,
near
the
Monastery
of
Abuhennis
.
Homos
gebeli
,
are
the
wild
Pease
of
the
Mountains
;
for
they
are
like
Pease
.
Roiet
gassal
,
or
Harts-Foot
:
so
called
,
because
it
is
like
the
Foot
of
this
Animal
,
and
both
are
oily
.
Selguem
,
called
by
the
Germans
,
Rubsamen
:
Zabuz
,
Oats
,
Saffron
,
Simsim
,
or
the
Sesame
,
Heb-il-sode
,
called
Jugeolin
.
Tabacco
,
Rice
,
Sugar
,
Linni
;
Coulangian
,
called
in
Latin
,
Gulange
;
and
in
French
,
Galangu
.
Of
Birds
.
THE
rarest
Birds
that
I
have
seen
in
Egypt
,
are
these
;
Sciamta
is
the
biggest
,
next
to
the
Austrich
.
It
is
so
strong
,
that
some
say
,
it
can
carry
up
a
Man
into
the
Air.
Next
to
these
are
the
Eagles
,
the
Vultures
,
named
in
Arab.
Akab
,
which
are
very
big
.
Gaddafs
,
Havams
,
Baz
,
Heddahs
,
Sakers
,
Sciahins
,
Bascieks
,
Rachms
;
all
these
are
several
sorts
of
Vultures
,
Faulcons
,
and
Hawks
.
There
be
also
Mezaz
,
and
Begas
,
otherwise
called
Gemel
il
Bahr
,
or
the
River-Camel
;
or
the
Pelican
.
The
Saksaks
have
a
Bone
strong
and
sharp
,
at
the
joint
of
each
Wing
.
The
Guinney-Hens
,
Cranes
,
Wild-Geese
,
and
many
other
Birds
;
which
are
ordinary
amongst
us
.
There
are
also
many
Austriches
,
and
chiefly
in
Desarts
,
that
lead
to
the
Monastery
of
St.
Anthony
,
I
have
seen
there
Herds
together
.
I
have
read
in
an
Arabian
Manuscript
,
called
Giauharet
innefisse
,
a
remarkable
thing
concerning
the
Austrich
,
which
I
cannot
pass
over
without
publishing
.
When
it
intends
to
Hatch
its
Egs
,
it
sits
not
upon
them
,
as
other
Birds
;
but
the
Male
and
the
Female
Hatches
them
with
their
Eye
only
;
and
when
either
of
them
hath
need
to
seek
for
Food
,
he
gives
notice
to
the
other
by
crying
;
and
the
other
continues
to
look
upon
the
Egs
,
till
it
be
return'd
:
likewise
when
the
other
hath
the
same
desire
to
seek
about
for
Food
,
he
gives
the
same
notice
,
with
the
same
shriek
,
that
its
Companion
might
remain
still
to
look
upon
the
Egs
,
till
they
be
all
Hatch'd
:
For
if
they
did
but
look
off
a
moment
,
the
Egs
would
spoil
and
rot
.
The
Church
of
the
Copies
hath
learn'd
an
excellent
Custome
from
the
Practice
of
this
Bird
:
They
hang
up
a
lighted
Lamp
,
between
two
Egs
of
an
Austrich
,
over
against
the
Priests
that
officiate
,
to
advise
them
to
be
attentive
about
their
Devotions
;
that
their
Prayers
might
be
more
efficacious
,
and
might
not
lose
their
strength
,
for
want
of
attention
.
It
is
now
time
to
bring
back
my
Reader
to
my
Journal
,
to
Damietta
,
where
I
left
him
;
that
I
might
give
him
first
a
General
Description
of
Egypt
.
A
Voyage
to
the
Monasteries
of
the
Desarts
of
S.
Macarius
.
ON
the
30th
of
June
I
went
from
Rosetta
,
with
an
intention
to
visit
the
four
Monasteries
of
the
Desarts
of
S.
Macarius
:
for
that
purpose
I
went
aboard
of
a
Boat
of
a
Janissary
,
●amed
Reus
Ahmed
il
Curdi
,
a
Man
very
well
acquainted
with
the
Francs
,
to
go
with
him
to
Tarane
,
or
Terenut
,
as
the
Copties
call
it
in
their
Dictionary
.
It
is
a
little
Village
in
the
Cascieflik
of
Beheire
,
four
and
twenty
hours
travelling
from
Cairo
,
scituate
upon
the
East
of
Nilus
,
the
place
where
Men
commonly
go
a-shore
when
they
design
to
travel
to
those
Monasteries
.
But
,
before
I
came
to
that
Village
,
I
received
many
affronts
from
some
young
Turks
,
because
I
carried
with
me
a
little
Box
full
of
Wine
.
A
zealous
Cadi
being
troubled
in
Conscience
for
being
in
the
company
of
a
Franc
that
drunk
Wine
,
encourag'd
them
to
ask
me
some
,
that
he
might
have
an
occasion
to
quarrel
with
me
,
if
I
did
give
them
some
.
These
Rogues
having
the
Authority
of
a
Cadi
to
countenance
their
wicked
design
,
four
of
the
boldest
ask'd
me
some
very
earnestly
;
for
they
said
they
knew
that
I
had
some
.
I
excus'd
my self
at
first
,
that
I
could
not
give
them
any
to
drink
,
because
they
were
not
to
drink
Wine
;
and
that
I
knew
very
well
that
it
was
a
great
Crime
for
a
Franc
to
give
Wine
to
a
Musulman
,
chiefly
in
a
place
where
many
others
would
be
offended
at
it
,
and
that
such
an
action
might
bring
me
into
trouble
.
But
all
these
reasons
could
not
prevail
;
they
would
have
some
Volens
Nolens
,
threatning
that
if
I
denied
them
they
would
cast
my
Wine
into
the
River
.
When
I
saw
my self
in
this
danger
,
I
intreated
the
Reus
,
unto
whom
I
was
well
recommended
by
the
Vice-Consul
of
Rosetta
,
to
defend
me
.
He
did
so
much
by
his
credit
,
that
he
pacified
them
for
that
time
.
At
my
arrival
at
Tarane
,
whither
I
was
to
go
a-shore
,
I
hired
in
the
Morning
a
little
Boat
to
carry
me
,
and
my
Cloaths
and
Provisions
,
to
the
Village
;
for
our
Vessel
was
great
and
well
loaden
,
and
could
not
at
that
time
go
near
the
shore
,
because
the
Water
was
not
deep
.
Three
of
these
Turks
cast
themselves
furiously
into
my
Boat
,
taking
my
Box
in
earnest
to
cast
it
into
the
River
.
I
snatch'd
it
from
them
,
and
run
to
my
Musquet
as
if
I
intended
to
shoot
at
them
:
my
Black-a-moor
likewise
,
who
was
couragious
,
took
one
by
the
Neck
and
cast
him
into
the
River
,
and
with
his
Sword
in
his
Hand
put
himself
in
a
posture
of
defence
;
When
they
saw
that
they
had
to
do
with
Men
of
courage
that
were
not
afraid
of
them
,
they
went
back
into
the
Barque
,
and
very
furiously
assaulted
the
Reus
with
their
Fists
;
besides
,
they
accus'd
him
,
as
he
himself
told
me
afterwards
,
at
his
return
to
Cairo
,
before
his
Aga
,
to
have
drank
Wine
with
a
Franc
,
making
him
pay
,
as
a
punishment
,
ten
Piasters
.
After
this
Rencounter
,
I
had
another
Accident
that
happen'd
to
me
,
far
more
grievous
and
dangerous
.
At
my
landing
I
wanted
a
Man
to
carry
my
Cloaths
to
the
House
where
I
intended
to
lodge
;
I
called
therefore
some
of
the
Arabians
that
were
newly
arriv'd
from
the
Desarts
of
S.
Macarius
with
Nitre
,
or
Salt-Peter
:
He
that
carried
my
Box
of
Wine
finding
it
to
be
very
heavy
,
and
knowing
not
what
was
in
it
,
he
thought
it
had
been
a
Box
of
Money
;
therefore
being
proud
of
his
burden
,
he
told
all
that
he
met
with
in
the
way
,
that
he
carry'd
a
Box
full
of
Money
,
that
belong'd
to
a
Franc
newly
arriv'd
,
that
was
going
to
the
Monasteries
.
This
lye
spread
about
the
Village
,
and
was
believ'd
as
true
,
so
that
I
was
in
no
small
danger
;
for
there
was
no
other
talk
in
the
Town
but
of
the
rich
Franc
that
was
there
,
and
of
the
means
to
get
his
Money
:
They
thought
I
had
been
some
Consul
that
travell'd
incognito
to
see
the
Country
,
therefore
they
resolv'd
to
wait
for
me
in
the
way
,
and
to
take
from
me
all
my
Treasure
.
In
this
manner
I
landed
at
Tarane
,
on
a
Sunday
,
and
went
to
lodge
at
a
poor
Carpenters
House
,
a
Christian
Coptie
,
the
only
Christian
in
that
Village
;
he
allowed
me
for
my
Chamber
,
a
place
where
he
put
Straw
for
his
Beasts
;
it
was
covered
with
the
Faggots
of
Palm-trees
,
heap'd
one
upon
another
,
to
hinder
the
heats
of
the
Sun
:
I
found
there
two
religious
Persons
of
the
Monasteries
whither
I
intended
to
go
,
with
them
I
past
my
fears
and
apprehensions
.
When
I
understood
,
from
all
hands
,
the
Conspiracy
that
the
Arabians
had
form'd
against
me
;
the
danger
oblig'd
me
the
the
next
day
,
to
desire
the
Cascief
of
that
place
to
give
me
a
Guard
,
to
bring
me
safe
to
the
Monasteries
;
and
that
I
might
perswade
him
the
sooner
,
I
gave
him
some
Pounds
of
Coffee
and
Loaves
of
Sugar
,
which
I
had
brought
with
me
for
that
purpose
;
for
it
is
the
Custom
in
Turkie
,
when
a
favour
is
desired
from
a
Turk
,
to
begin
with
Gifts
:
But
the
Cascief
having
heard
what
report
went
of
me
,
answer'd
me
,
that
a
small
Guard
would
do
me
but
little
good
,
because
the
Arabians
had
formed
a
design
to
wait
for
me
in
the
way
,
and
to
cut
my
Throat
,
and
that
it
was
needful
that
he
should
Guard
me
himself
;
which
he
promis'd
to
do
within
a
few
days
,
after
that
he
had
finish'd
some
business
of
importance
.
I
was
mightily
troubled
when
I
heard
what
the
Cascief
offer'd
me
.
It
was
to
no
purpose
when
I
told
him
that
I
was
no
Consul
,
as
the
report
went
of
me
without
any
colour
of
truth
,
but
rather
a
poor
Franc
that
went
to
the
Monasteries
to
perfect
my self
in
the
Language
of
the
Country
;
That
in
this
Box
there
was
no
Money
,
but
only
some
Glass
Bottles
of
Wine
which
I
carried
with
me
,
because
I
was
never
us'd
to
drink
Water
.
All
this
discourse
was
to
no
purpose
,
he
was
so
prepossess'd
with
the
false
report
that
I
could
not
be
believ'd
.
When
I
saw
that
I
spent
my
labour
in
vain
,
I
went
to
my
Lodging
without
accepting
his
offer
.
At
that
time
I
had
news
that
Nassr
Allá
,
an
Abbot
of
one
of
the
Monasteries
,
that
I
intended
to
visit
,
was
at
a
Village
at
the
other
side
of
the
River
,
call'd
Tuh
inessára
,
not
far
from
Tarane
down
the
Current
,
about
some
concerns
of
his
Monastery
.
I
sent
him
a
Letter
,
written
in
Arabic
,
by
one
of
the
Lay
Monks
whom
I
found
at
my
arrival
at
Tarane
,
acquainting
him
with
my
intention
,
and
all
that
had
happen'd
between
me
and
the
Cascief
,
and
Arabians
,
intreating
him
to
tell
me
how
I
should
get
free
from
those
People
;
I
assur'd
him
that
I
should
be
for
ever
oblig'd
to
him
,
and
that
all
the
favour
he
should
shew
me
would
be
pleasing
to
his
Partriarch
,
who
was
my
very
good
Friend
,
and
had
recommended
me
to
the
Governours
of
those
Monasteries
.
But
this
uncivil
Abbot
was
so
far
from
answering
to
my
Letter
,
as
I
expected
,
that
he
kept
with
him
the
Messenger
,
and
would
not
suffer
him
to
return
back
.
When
I
saw
the
Abbots
incivility
,
and
being
more
desirous
to
proceed
on
in
my
Journy
,
notwithstanding
all
these
difficulties
;
I
resolved
once
more
to
visit
the
Cascief
,
to
intreat
him
to
give
me
a
Guard
,
thinking
to
find
him
of
another
judgment
than
he
was
before
when
I
saw
him
first
,
but
I
receiv'd
from
him
the
same
answer
;
He
told
me
that
he
would
not
have
me
venture
,
unless
he
Guarded
me
himself
;
that
he
must
answer
to
the
Pacha
for
my
Life
,
if
any
mischance
did
happen
to
me
in
my
Journy
,
and
that
he
knew
that
I
was
but
ill
accommodated
with
the
Christian
;
he
desired
me
therefore
to
take
a
Chamber
at
his
House
.
I
must
confess
that
this
second
offer
,
as
well
as
the
first
,
did
strangely
trouble
me
:
for
this
earnest
desire
that
he
did
discover
of
Guarding
me
in
his
own
Person
,
was
no
good
Omen
to
me
;
besides
,
his
Reputation
was
but
bad
in
the
Village
;
and
when
I
should
have
had
no
reason
to
fear
him
,
and
that
his
intentions
had
been
very
good
,
the
expences
I
must
have
been
at
for
him
and
his
Company
,
and
the
Gifts
that
I
must
have
bestowed
upon
him
for
his
pains
,
would
have
ruined
me
;
for
I
knew
that
a
Cascief
never
ventures
out
in
a
Journy
without
a
great
train
of
Horse
and
Foot
,
and
without
expecting
great
matters
.
When
I
saw
the
danger
and
trouble
that
I
had
in
this
Journy
,
I
resolved
to
return
to
Cairo
as
soon
as
I
could
.
With
this
resolution
I
spent
the
rest
of
the
day
in
my
Lodging
,
thinking
how
I
might
be
able
to
compass
it
.
About
two
hours
in
the
Night
I
heard
knocking
at
the
Door
very
earnestly
,
and
because
it
was
no
seasonable
time
to
speak
with
me
,
and
that
the
Person
knockt
very
hard
,
I
began
to
think
that
I
was
in
danger
:
That
I
might
not
be
surpriz'd
,
I
awak'd
the
Persons
in
the
House
,
and
took
my
Weapons
in
my
hand
,
sending
my
Black-a-moor
to
see
who
was
there
;
he
return'd
to
me
,
and
told
me
that
it
was
a
Groom
of
the
Cascief
that
was
desirous
to
speak
with
me
,
concerning
a
business
of
the
highest
importance
.
I
caus'd
him
to
come
in
,
and
found
that
it
was
he
that
had
introduc'd
me
to
his
Masters
presence
,
unto
whom
I
had
made
some
small
Gifts
:
As
soon
as
he
saw
me
,
he
intreated
me
by
his
Religion
and
mine
,
as
the
Custom
of
the
Country
is
,
to
go
away
immediately
,
as
secretly
as
I
could
;
for
his
Master
intended
to
kill
me
,
because
he
thought
I
was
a
Man
that
travell'd
up
and
down
only
to
seek
for
the
Treasures
of
the
ancient
Egyptians
:
And
that
he
might
more
conveniently
perform
this
bloody
design
,
he
was
resolved
to
lead
me
himself
towards
the
Monasteries
to
the
middle
of
the
Wilderness
,
where
he
would
suffer
me
to
rest
,
and
afterwards
cut
my
Throat
:
And
if
afterwards
any
should
inquire
for
a
Franc
that
was
gone
by
Tarane
to
the
Monasteries
,
he
would
say
that
he
is
gone
to
Cairo
by
another
way
:
He
told
me
also
,
that
about
a
Month
before
that
,
his
Master
had
kill'd
a
Mahometan
Traveller
of
Barbary
,
and
had
cast
his
Body
into
the
River
,
for
the
same
cause
.
As
soon
as
I
understood
this
bad
news
,
I
had
no
more
mind
to
sleep
,
I
gave
him
the
reward
that
he
had
deserv'd
,
and
sent
to
seek
a
Camel
to
carry
my
Cloaths
;
and
about
one
of
the
Clock
in
the
Night
I
departed
to
go
to
the
passage
that
leads
to
Gizéy
,
a
Village
scituated
on
the
other
side
of
Nilus
,
about
an
hour
and
a
halfs
travelling
from
Tarane
down
the
Water
:
I
agreed
there
with
a
Master
of
a
Boat
to
carry
me
and
my
Cloaths
over
;
and
about
break
of
the
Day
I
went
aboard
very
speedily
:
As
soon
as
we
were
lanch'd
into
the
River
,
from
Land
,
I
saw
the
Cascief
galloping
towards
us
with
about
thirty
Men
on
Horse
back
to
catch
me
;
but
he
miss'd
of
his
intent
,
for
I
was
out
of
his
reach
.
At
Gizéy
,
as
I
was
waiting
for
an
opportunity
to
return
to
Cairo
,
the
Abbot
Nassr
alla
,
mentioned
before
,
came
thither
and
offer'd
to
conduct
me
to
the
Monasteries
,
if
I
would
return
to
Tarane
in
his
company
;
but
I
had
no
mind
any
longer
to
visit
them
.
I
went
from
Gizéy
the
same
day
,
being
Fryday
,
towards
Cairo
;
and
the
next
Night
we
lodg'd
at
Verdan
,
a
Village
scituate
on
the
West-side
of
Nilus
,
not
far
from
Boulak
;
and
on
Saturday
the
9th
of
July
,
I
enter'd
into
Cairo
,
from
whence
I
departed
the
7th
of
June
.
Whilst
I
was
at
Tarane
,
the
Cascief's
Clark
,
who
was
a
Coptie
and
a
Christian
,
came
to
see
me
sometimes
.
I
understood
from
him
what
the
Lakes
of
Salt-Peter
,
or
Niter
,
yield
to
the
Grand
Seignior
every
Year
.
He
told
me
,
that
this
Year
within
the
space
of
nine
Months
,
they
had
drawn
four
and
twenty
thousand
Quintals
,
and
that
they
must
take
up
twelve
thousand
more
to
make
up
the
ordinary
Sum
that
is
drawn
:
So
that
every
Quintal
being
sold
for
25
Meidins
,
this
Revenue
comes
to
36
Purses
,
or
18000
Crowns
,
French
Money
,
by
the
Year
.
As
soon
as
it
is
taken
out
of
the
Lakes
they
carry
it
upon
Camels
to
Tarane
,
where
it
is
weighed
,
and
from
thence
sent
to
Cairo
,
or
Alexandria
,
to
be
sold
.
For
this
cause
a
Cascief
dwells
here
,
who
though
he
be
but
little
in
Authority
,
and
subject
to
the
Cascief
of
Beheire
,
he
is
forc'd
to
buy
this
employment
,
and
pay
for
it
four
and
twenty
Purses
;
one
half
to
the
Cascief
of
Beheire
,
and
the
other
half
to
the
Pacha
:
he
keeps
also
twenty
Spahins
to
wait
upon
him
,
and
guard
his
Country
;
he
is
the
Lord
of
these
Monasteries
.
But
before
I
proceed
on
in
my
Journal
,
I
will
give
a
short
account
of
some
remarkable
things
in
this
Desart
,
as
I
have
heard
them
from
one
that
hath
been
an
Abbot
in
one
of
the
Monasteries
.
First
there
is
to
be
seen
,
between
the
Monasteries
of
S.
Macarius
,
and
of
Amba
Biscioi
,
and
a
little
further
in
the
Wilderness
,
a
long
rank
of
little
heaps
of
Earth
,
a
Foot
from
one
another
,
plac'd
as
in
a
way
;
which
,
as
the
Monks
say
,
was
put
there
by
the
Angels
,
that
the
Hermites
might
be
able
to
find
the
way
to
the
Church
when
they
were
desirous
to
hear
Divine
Service
on
Sundays
;
for
before
they
were
apt
to
go
out
of
the
way
:
Therefore
this
way
is
called
now
,
Tarik
il
meláike
,
or
,
The
way
of
Angels
.
Secondly
I
have
understood
from
an
old
Manuscript
in
Arab.
that
in
the
Wilderness
were
heretofore
seven
great
Monasteries
;
namely
,
1.
of
S.
Macarius
;
2.
Of
S.
John
the
little
,
sirnamed
Igumène
;
3.
Of
Amba
Biscíoi
;
4.
Of
S.
Massine
,
and
Timothy
;
5.
That
of
Amba
Moses
,
sirnamed
Black
;
6.
That
of
Amba
Kéma
;
7.
That
of
the
holy
Virgin
of
Syria
:
and
that
besides
these
seven
Monasteries
,
there
were
three
hundred
dwellings
of
Hermites
,
and
solitary
People
that
served
God
in
this
Wilderness
.
But
now
,
of
all
these
Monasteries
,
there
are
but
two
remarkable
;
namely
,
the
Monastery
of
the
Syrians
,
and
that
of
Amba
Biscioi
.
They
are
furnish'd
with
very
good
Water
.
The
first
hath
two
Churches
;
one
for
the
Syrians
,
and
another
for
the
Copties
.
In
that
of
the
Syrians
is
to
be
seen
a
miraculous
Tree
,
growing
from
the
Staff
of
S.
Ephrem
.
This
holy
Man
left
it
at
the
Gate
when
he
went
to
visit
one
in
the
Monastery
,
and
immediately
it
shot
forth
Roots
downwards
,
and
Leaves
upwards
,
with
Flowers
.
They
say
,
that
there
is
no
such
Tree
to
be
found
in
all
Egypt
besides
.
Thirdly
,
in
the
Monastery
of
S.
John
the
little
,
which
now
is
much
decayed
,
is
to
be
seen
a
Tree
that
grew
likewise
from
this
Saints
Staff
miraculously
,
when
he
had
fix'd
it
into
the
Ground
at
his
Superiors
command
,
and
water'd
it
:
Therefore
they
call
it
,
because
of
this
Act
of
Obedience
,
Scieigiaret
ittáa
,
or
the
Tree
of
Obedience
.
Fourthly
,
in
the
way
that
leads
from
the
Monastery
of
the
Syrians
to
the
Mountain
of
the
Eagles
Stones
,
is
to
be
seen
the
Bed
of
Bahr
Belá
me
,
or
River
without
Water
;
which
was
dried
up
,
as
the
Monks
relate
,
at
the
Prayers
of
the
ancient
Hermites
that
dwelt
about
its
Banks
;
because
they
were
grievously
troubled
by
the
Pyrats
that
sailed
upon
it
,
therefore
they
obtain'd
from
God
this
favour
.
Fifthly
,
in
this
Desart
is
to
be
seen
another
Curiosity
,
call'd
by
the
Arabians
,
Lahm
iggiúf
;
but
because
I
could
not
well
understand
what
it
was
,
I
could
desire
that
some
other
Traveller
would
enquire
it
out
,
that
we
may
better
know
what
to
think
of
it
.
A
Walk
to
the
Garden
of
Ma-Tárea
.
THE
12th
of
July
I
went
,
in
the
Company
of
some
French
Merchants
,
to
the
Village
of
Ma-Tárea
,
scituate
on
the
East
of
Cairo
,
about
two
hours
riding
on
Horse-back
,
to
visit
the
places
which
Christ
and
his
most
holy
Mother
have
sanctified
with
their
abode
,
and
the
Garden
where
the
Balm
Plants
were
set
formerly
.
At
the
entry
into
the
Court
which
is
before
this
Garden
there
is
to
be
seen
,
at
the
right
hand
,
a
small
Oratory
of
the
Turks
,
which
one
Ibrahim
,
who
was
Pacha
of
Egypt
about
thirteen
years
ago
,
caus'd
to
be
built
out
of
a
hatred
of
the
Copties
,
upon
the
ruins
of
a
Church
which
belong'd
to
them
,
and
where
they
reverenc'd
some
Relicks
and
steps
of
our
Lord
,
and
of
his
most
holy
Mother
.
This
Pacha
chang'd
,
as
we
have
said
,
this
Chappel
into
an
Oratory
of
Turks
,
that
no
Christian
might
have
the
liberty
to
enter
in
and
visit
it
.
But
since
the
Turks
have
forsaken
it
one
may
go
in
freely
without
hindrance
;
therefore
it
is
no
longer
named
an
Oratory
,
but
il
Mákad
,
or
the
place
of
rest
.
In
this
Mákad
is
a
little
Cistern
of
Marble
of
divers
colours
,
full
of
Water
,
which
comes
into
it
by
a
Channel
from
the
miraculous
Well
that
is
near
by
.
The
Copties
say
,
from
Tradition
,
that
the
blessed
Virgin
was
wont
to
wash
in
it
the
Linen
of
her
divine
Son
;
and
that
whilst
she
was
employed
in
working
,
she
laid
him
in
a
little
hole
which
is
in
the
Wall
of
the
Mákad
,
a
place
where
some
religious
Francs
have
heretofore
said
Mass
,
out
of
devotion
.
However
it
be
,
I
will
not
deny
a
Tradition
so
ancient
;
but
it
is
so
hard
to
reconcile
all
the
Circumstances
which
they
bring
to
prove
it
,
that
when
I
had
done
all
that
I
could
to
understand
the
truth
,
I
sound
such
doubts
as
did
rather
contradict
,
than
establish
any
such
thing
.
Very
near
this
Mákad
,
or
resting
place
,
is
the
miraculous
Well
,
very
deep
.
Its
Waters
are
lighter
and
sweeter
than
the
Waters
of
Nilus
.
This
is
so
well
known
,
that
the
Pacha's
drink
of
it
,
and
prefer
it
to
the
Waters
of
the
River
.
The
Tradition
of
the
Copties
say
,
and
some
Mahometan
Historians
agree
to
it
,
as
Amru
ibn
il
verdi
,
that
our
Saviour
hath
wash'd
himself
in
this
Well
,
and
by
a
Miracle
he
hath
given
this
sweetness
,
and
extraordinary
pleasantness
to
these
Waters
.
It
s
Sourse
,
or
Spring
,
is
not
well
known
.
Some
think
that
it
came
by
a
Miracle
,
others
say
that
it
proceeds
from
Nilus
under
ground
.
But
I
think
it
impossible
;
1.
Because
of
the
great
distance
between
the
River
and
this
Well
;
2.
Because
when
the
Waters
of
Nilus
are
corrupt
and
thick
,
the
Water
of
this
Well
is
clear
,
whereas
if
it
proceeded
out
of
the
River
,
it
would
be
as
thick
as
the
Waters
of
Nilus
;
3.
because
the
Water
of
this
Well
never
riseth
,
nor
falls
,
as
the
River
doth
,
but
is
always
equal
in
height
;
finally
I
conceive
it
,
from
the
name
given
to
it
,
Má-Tarea
,
which
signifies
fresh
Water
;
this
signifies
that
it
hath
a
particular
Sourse
,
and
a
quality
not
common
with
the
Waters
of
Nilus
.
The
Mahometans
say
,
that
it
proceeds
from
the
Well
Bi
r
issimsim
,
which
is
at
Mecha
;
a
famous
Well
,
because
of
a
pretended
Miracle
of
Mahomet
.
But
this
is
a
Fable
invented
by
some
of
their
Sciechs
,
to
obtain
more
credit
to
their
Prophet
;
for
Mecha
is
distant
from
Cairo
one
and
thirty
days
journy
,
as
the
Caravan
makes
them
,
therefore
it
is
impossible
that
a
Well
should
be
in
Egypt
proceeding
from
a
Sourse
at
such
a
distance
.
After
that
we
had
eaten
in
the
resting
place
,
and
drank
of
this
good
Water
out
of
devotion
,
we
went
into
the
Garden
,
where
heretofore
the
Balm
trees
were
Planted
,
which
yielded
Balm
only
when
they
stood
in
this
place
,
and
were
watered
with
the
Water
of
the
miraculous
Well
.
One
may
read
my
Book
upon
this
Subject
,
called
The
Church
of
Alexandria
;
where
many
remarkable
things
may
be
found
,
very
curious
,
concerning
these
Trees
and
this
Well
.
In
this
Garden
was
heretofore
to
be
seen
the
Sicamore-tree
,
which
,
as
the
Copties
say
,
split
in
two
miraculously
,
to
hide
our
Lord
Jesus
Christ
and
his
most
holy
Mother
,
when
the
Souldiers
of
Herod
pursued
him
:
They
say
,
that
when
they
hid
themselves
in
this
opening
of
the
Sicamore
,
they
saved
themselves
from
the
Souldiers
violence
,
by
the
favour
of
a
Spiders
Web
that
covered
them
suddenly
,
and
appeared
very
old
,
though
it
was
made
in
an
instant
by
a
Miracle
:
so
that
that
they
imagin'd
not
that
any
Person
could
be
hid
within
,
much
less
the
Persons
whom
they
were
seeking
.
The
Franciscans
of
the
Holy
Land
,
that
dwell
at
Cairo
,
dispute
with
the
Keepers
of
this
Garden
,
the
possession
of
this
Tree
;
and
say
,
that
it
fell
down
with
old
age
in
the
year
1656.
and
that
they
gather'd
then
up
the
pieces
which
they
keep
carefully
in
their
place
of
Relicks
;
I
have
seen
them
there
.
The
Gardiners
yet
shew
in
this
Garden
a
Stump
which
I
have
seen
,
which
they
say
are
the
remains
of
this
Sicamore
.
But
this
dispute
concerns
me
not
much
,
neither
do
I
think
that
I
should
oblige
those
Fathers
to
maintain
their
interest
in
this
case
that
is
so
trivial
.
When
we
had
seen
this
Sicamore
,
we
went
out
of
the
Garden
to
see
the
Needle
,
which
is
out
of
the
Village
,
planted
in
the
open
Field
,
where
stood
anciently
the
City
Heliopolis
.
This
Needle
is
not
equally
square
,
for
there
are
two
sides
larger
than
the
others
:
The
largest
are
each
of
six
Foot
,
and
the
narrowest
of
five
and
a
half
.
There
be
but
few
Characters
graven
upon
it
,
but
they
be
yet
to
be
read
;
and
those
that
are
graven
in
one
side
,
are
also
in
the
three
others
.
It
is
of
a
red
Stone
,
as
all
other
Needles
that
I
have
seen
in
Egypt
,
Planted
upon
the
ground
without
any
Basis
to
stand
upon
.
Near
this
Needle
is
a
square
Stone
of
an
extraordinary
bigness
,
which
seems
to
have
been
the
Basis
of
some
great
Pillar
;
but
it
is
worn
on
the
sides
,
therefore
I
neglected
to
take
the
measure
of
it
.
In
this
Field
Sultan
Selim
encamp'd
with
his
Army
,
when
he
engaged
in
a
Fight
with
Sultan
Cajed
Bey
,
the
last
King
of
the
Mammelucs
;
some
of
the
Trenches
of
his
Camp
are
yet
to
be
seen
.
I
went
next
alone
from
Má-Tarea
to
Mínied
Sored
,
another
Village
hard
by
on
the
West-side
,
to
see
a
miraculous
Image
of
the
blessed
Virgin
,
which
the
Copties
keep
in
their
Church
;
of
which
I
have
read
a
Miracle
in
an
Abyssin
Manuscript
,
which
I
found
in
the
Monastery
of
Koskam
,
near
Momfallot
in
the
middle
Egypt
,
at
my
first
Voyage
into
Egypt
.
As
soon
as
I
had
seen
it
,
I
return'd
to
Cairo
.
The
17th
of
July
,
Saturday
Night
,
I
went
to
the
Monastery
of
S.
Michael
,
scituated
out
of
the
Old
Cairo
at
the
East-side
,
about
half
an
hours
riding
on
Horse-back
,
in
the
Field
called
,
in
Arab.
Birket
siech
Ombarek
,
or
the
Lake
of
the
blessed
Sciech
;
where
I
spent
the
Night
to
hear
Mass
;
for
the
Copties
say
it
ordinarily
after
Midnight
.
The
next
day
I
return'd
back
to
my
Lodging
,
and
saw
in
my
passage
all
the
Churches
and
Monasteries
of
the
Copties
which
are
in
Old
Cairo
;
leaving
on
our
left
hand
the
three
Churches
which
are
in
Babylon
Massr
,
which
was
heretofore
part
of
Old
Cairo
,
but
is
now
totally
destroyed
.
I
began
my
visit
by
the
Churches
that
are
in
Cassr
Isscémma
.
Churches
,
and
Monasteries
of
Cassr
Isscémma
.
THE
first
was
that
of
Maállaca
:
It
is
a
very
ancient
Church
,
stately
and
very
clear
;
and
I
may
say
that
it
is
the
most
beautiful
that
the
Copties
have
in
Egypt
.
It
is
the
Metropolis
in
which
the
Patriarch
performs
his
first
Divine
Service
.
The
Copties
bought
it
of
Amru
ibn
il
Ass
,
as
may
appear
by
the
Contract
written
upon
the
Walls
of
this
Church
with
the
Hand
of
this
Prince
,
who
curseth
there
all
the
Mahometans
that
shall
offer
to
take
it
from
them
.
There
be
five
Heikels
,
or
Chappels
,
in
a
rank
;
but
separated
the
one
from
the
other
with
little
Grates
of
Wood
:
so
that
five
Masses
may
be
read
at
once
,
and
the
Priests
need
not
interrupt
one
another
.
At
the
entry
of
this
Church
a
little
Image
is
to
be
seen
,
at
the
right
hand
,
upon
one
of
the
Pillars
:
which
Image
,
the
Copties
say
,
spoke
to
S.
Ephrem
,
one
of
their
Patriarchs
,
to
comfort
him
in
his
affliction
,
when
Meéz
le
din
alla
,
the
Califf
,
commanded
him
to
transport
Mount
Gebel
il
mocáttam
,
which
now
stands
behind
the
Castle
of
Cairo
,
from
one
place
to
another
,
to
prove
the
truth
of
his
Religion
;
because
our
Saviour
Christ
saith
in
the
Gospel
,
If
you
had
faith
as
a
Grain
of
Mustard-seed
,
you
should
say
to
this
Mountain
,
remove
thence
to
yonder
place
,
and
it
shall
remove
;
and
nothing
shall
be
impossible
unto
you
.
He
threatned
him
therefore
that
if
he
did
not
remove
it
,
that
he
would
destroy
all
his
Nation
,
as
a
People
that
professed
a
false
Religion
,
and
that
deserved
not
to
live
amongst
them
that
were
Believers
.
Because
this
Image
spoke
then
to
their
Patriarch
,
to
comfort
him
and
assure
him
that
he
should
remove
the
Mountain
in
spight
of
the
Jews
,
who
had
anger'd
this
Califf
against
them
,
they
highly
respect
it
.
Next
to
Maállaca
,
I
went
to
visit
Sancta
Barba
;
where
,
as
my
leader
told
me
,
the
Body
of
this
Saint
rests
at
the
left
hand
of
the
Chappel
.
This
Church
is
great
and
very
light
,
and
therefore
seems
to
me
to
be
the
most
pleasant
of
all
the
rest
.
There
be
also
three
Chappels
in
a
rank
.
I
saw
next
the
Church
of
Saint
Sergius
,
which
was
built
,
as
Said
ibn
Patrik
saith
in
his
History
,
by
a
Coptie
,
a
Secretary
to
Abd
ilaziz
ibn
Meruán
,
a
Califf
of
Egypt
.
Under
this
Church
is
to
be
seen
a
Cave
,
in
which
,
as
the
Copties
hold
by
Tradition
,
Christ
with
his
most
blessed
Mother
have
lived
a
while
.
It
is
divided
into
three
Angles
,
or
Parts
,
by
little
Pillars
.
In
the
first
,
at
the
entrance
,
is
the
Baptismal
Font
of
the
Copties
:
At
the
bottom
of
the
middle
separation
is
a
place
in
the
Wall
,
and
in
this
place
a
Stone
,
which
,
as
the
Copties
believe
,
hath
been
sanctified
with
the
steps
of
our
blessed
Saviour
.
The
religious
Francs
sometimes
say
Mass
here
.
In
the
third
separation
is
another
Stone
sanctified
also
by
our
Saviour's
footsteps
.
In
the
Cave
,
I
remember
not
well
in
which
separation
,
is
to
be
seen
the
Epitaph
of
a
Gentleman
of
Europe
,
buried
there
about
two
hundred
and
seventy
five
years
ago
,
in
Gothick
Letters
;
but
the
Stone
is
plac'd
upside-down
,
through
the
ignorance
of
the
Mason
,
as
I
believe
;
this
is
the
Epitaph
.
Hic
jacet
Nobilis
Petrus
Louys
IX
.
Neapollonies
,
qui
obiit
M.
CCCC.II
.
die
.
XI
.
Februarii
.
Next
to
this
Church
,
I
visited
that
of
our
blessed
Lady
,
in
the
Street
called
Darb
ittáka
.
It
is
very
small
,
and
very
obscure
.
Out
of
this
Church
I
saw
a
little
round
Stone
of
black
Marble
,
lying
upon
the
ground
;
about
it
were
graven
small
Hieroglyphick
Letters
.
At
a
little
distance
from
this
Church
,
through
an
Alley
,
is
to
be
seen
the
remains
of
a
Persian
Temple
,
called
in
Arab.
Kobbet
il
fo
rs
,
or
the
Temple
of
the
Persians
,
which
Artaxerxes
Ochus
,
King
of
Persia
,
caus'd
to
be
built
in
honour
of
the
Fire
;
and
though
the
Ruines
are
but
small
,
they
discover
yet
that
this
Temple
was
heretofore
very
stately
.
In
the
inside
,
about
the
Walls
,
are
to
be
seen
several
standings
,
or
holes
,
as
high
as
a
Man
,
in
which
it
is
probable
they
plac'd
their
Idols
.
I
saw
next
the
Church
of
Mary
Girges
,
or
of
S.
George
,
which
is
in
the
same
Street
called
Darb
ittáka
,
or
the
Street
of
the
Window
.
It
is
very
ancient
,
and
of
a
mean
beauty
.
At
the
entrance
,
on
the
right
hand
,
is
to
be
seen
the
Body
of
Amba
Bissúra
,
Bishop
and
Martyr
,
with
his
Epitaph
in
Arabick
,
which
I
could
not
place
here
,
because
the
Printer
had
not
the
Characters
.
Next
to
this
Church
I
went
to
see
the
Monasteries
of
the
Nuns
,
amongst
the
Copties
,
called
Dér
il
benát
,
or
the
Monastery
of
the
Maids
,
which
was
built
,
as
they
say
,
by
a
King
called
Alexander
;
but
it
is
a
place
so
filthy
and
stinking
,
that
I
could
not
stay
there
any
time
.
The
last
Church
that
I
saw
in
this
Castle
,
was
that
of
the
Monastery
of
S.
George
,
of
the
religious
Greeks
.
In
this
Church
is
to
be
seen
an
Image
of
this
Saint
,
that
,
as
they
say
,
hath
the
Power
to
heal
and
cure
Fools
.
This
Monastery
also
is
very
ugly
,
and
filthy
.
Churches
,
and
Monasteries
,
in
the
Patriarch's
Quarters
.
IN
the
Quarters
of
the
Patriarch
,
named
in
Arab.
Haret
il
Bátrak
,
a
Suburb
of
it self
,
on
this
side
of
Cassr
Isscémma
,
is
the
Church
of
Mary
Moncure
.
It
is
very
great
,
high
,
and
built
with
very
strong
Walls
.
In
this
Church
the
Patriarch
of
the
Copties
is
chosen
and
consecrated
.
It
hath
been
ruinated
by
the
Mahometans
,
and
turn'd
into
a
Store-house
of
Sugar-Canes
.
It
continued
so
to
the
days
of
the
Patriarch
Ephrem
,
who
,
in
the
Reign
of
Meez
le
din
alla
,
having
transported
the
Mountain
called
Gebel
il
mocáttam
,
which
now
stands
behind
the
Castle
of
Cairo
,
to
prove
the
truth
of
his
Religion
,
and
that
of
the
Turks
and
Jews
to
be
false
,
got
an
Order
from
him
to
the
Court
of
Be
it
il
mal
,
or
Treasure
of
the
Goods
of
the
deceased
;
that
out
of
this
Treasure
this
Church
should
be
re-built
with
all
the
Apartments
that
are
round
about
,
and
all
the
little
Churches
that
are
above
it
:
Which
was
accordingly
performed
,
as
may
be
seen
in
the
History
of
the
Patriarch's
of
Macrizi
.
Mekkin
,
an
Arabian
Historian
,
confirms
this
Relation
;
and
ascribes
this
Miracle
to
this
Saint
,
as
he
saith
in
his
History
.
Vádeh
ibn
Régia
,
a
Noble
Man
amongst
the
Mahometans
,
who
turned
Christian
;
a
little
while
after
being
very
thirsty
at
Mecha
,
he
pray'd
to
this
Saint
that
he
might
be
carryed
into
this
Church
,
because
at
that
time
the
River
Nilus
running
close
by
,
he
might
there
quench
his
violent
thirst
.
This
Saint
carried
him
immediately
into
this
Church
in
one
Night
,
a
way
that
the
Caravan
cannot
perform
in
less
than
eight
and
thirty
,
or
forty
days
.
At
the
entrance
into
this
Church
,
on
the
left
hand
,
is
the
Cave
where
dwelt
heretofore
Amba
Bersum
il
Erián
,
or
Saint
Bersum
the
naked
;
which
was
before
the
abode
of
a
Serpent
that
did
much
hurt
to
the
Inhabitants
round
about
.
In
the
Walls
are
to
be
seen
the
holes
where
he
hid
himself
,
but
as
soon
as
the
Saint
was
enter'd
in
to
do
Penance
,
the
Serpent
cast
it self
at
his
feet
,
to
do
him
homage
,
and
afterwards
it
never
hurt
any
body
.
In
this
Cave
is
a
little
Altar
to
say
Mass
.
A
little
above
this
same
Church
there
is
four
or
five
small
Churches
which
I
had
liberty
to
see
the
night
of
the
Festival
of
the
Epiphany
of
the
Copties
,
in
the
Year
1673.
I
staid
there
to
see
the
Ceremony
they
observe
,
in
dipping
themselves
in
the
Water
,
in
remembrance
of
Christ's
Baptism
.
The
Reader
may
,
in
the
sequel
of
this
Journal
,
see
this
described
in
the
Month
of
January
,
1673.
Near
this
Church
,
is
that
of
Amba
Scinúde
,
or
of
Saint
Sennodius
;
but
the
Turks
have
shut
it
,
to
draw
from
the
Copties
a
sum
of
Money
,
therefore
I
could
not
see
it
.
When
I
was
out
of
the
Patriarch's
Quarters
,
I
went
straight
to
Cairo
to
see
the
other
Churches
and
Monasteries
that
are
thereabout
:
when
I
was
come
as
far
as
the
Bridge
called
Kantaret
iggibs
,
or
the
Plaister'd
Bridge
,
I
turn'd
to
my
right
hand
,
and
when
I
was
past
the
heaps
of
Ruines
and
Rubbish
that
are
there
,
I
came
to
the
Monastery
of
Mary
Mina
,
or
S.
Menna
,
which
is
an
Hospital
rather
,
for
poor
old
Men
,
than
a
Monastery
.
Within
the
Walls
of
this
Monastery
are
three
Churches
;
one
belongs
to
the
Copties
,
the
other
to
the
Armenians
,
and
the
third
to
the
Syrians
;
but
it
is
a
filthy
place
,
and
the
Churches
are
but
dark
.
A
Journey
to
the
City
of
Fiúm
.
THE
Province
of
Fiúm
hath
been
always
esteem'd
one
of
the
most
excellent
of
al●
Egypt
,
because
of
its
fruitful
Fields
,
of
its
grea●
Riches
,
of
its
pleasant
Gardens
,
which
are
the
rarest
of
all
this
Kingdom
;
and
because
of
many
wonderful
things
that
are
there
,
I
had
so
great
a
desire
to
travel
in
it
,
that
I
thought
I
had
seen
nothing
,
if
I
did
not
see
this
Country
also
.
And
because
Egypt
is
such
a
Country
that
one
cannot
travel
in
it
all
the
year
,
and
in
every
season
,
for
sometimes
you
are
hinder'd
by
the
excessive
heats
that
burn
and
scorch
your
bodies
,
sometimes
by
the
overflowing
of
Nilus
that
bury
all
the
Fields
under
water
,
and
sometimes
because
the
Arabians
are
scattered
about
the
ways
;
and
when
these
inconveniencies
don't
hinder
,
the
Casciefs
or
Governours
sometimes
are
wont
to
fright
Travellers
,
for
commonly
they
be
little
Tyrants
,
who
live
by
extortion
and
oppression
of
the
persons
that
have
the
unhappiness
to
fall
into
their
hands
:
Therefore
to
accomplish
this
Journey
with
more
safety
,
I
waited
for
the
Vintage
of
Fiúm
,
for
then
the
ways
are
full
of
persons
that
carry
Grapes
to
Cairo
,
and
then
the
Arabians
retreat
into
the
Desarts
,
and
there
is
nothing
to
be
fear'd
.
In
this
season
I
undertook
this
Journey
that
I
had
long
designed
;
I
went
from
Cairo
Monday
the
21.
of
July
.
And
that
I
might
not
fall
into
the
same
danger
as
at
Tarane
,
I
took
with
me
a
Janizary
,
to
whom
I
gave
15
Piasters
every
Month
;
and
I
took
my
Blackmoor
,
nam'd
Abul
Kerún
,
whose
courage
I
had
experienc'd
before
;
for
them
and
my self
,
I
hired
three
Mules
that
were
going
back
to
that
City
;
we
went
from
Cairo
the
prefixt
day
before
Noon
.
At
our
arrival
at
the
Monastery
of
Aduvie
,
which
is
about
an
hours
travelling
from
Old
Cairo
,
scituate
upon
the
East-side
of
Nilus
,
we
past
to
the
other
side
of
the
River
,
and
from
thence
we
march'd
to
Mocanan
,
a
very
good
Town
,
a
place
where
dwells
an
Arabian
Prince
,
very
famous
,
called
Ibn
Chabir
;
at
night
we
got
as
far
as
Kahue
Barnascht
,
a
Coffee-house
built
at
the
entry
in
of
the
Wilderness
through
which
one
goes
to
Fiúm
.
After
that
we
had
rested
our selves
a
little
,
we
proceeded
on
in
our
journey
before
the
Sun-set
,
marching
through
the
Wilderness
with
many
others
in
our
Company
,
who
had
overtaken
as
whiles
we
stayed
.
We
spent
nine
hours
in
going
through
this
Desart
,
going
all
night
through
a
Campane
very
equal
,
full
of
Sand
,
and
houndless
,
and
in
the
morning
before
the
Sun-rising
we
arriv'd
at
Tamieh
,
a
very
great
and
considerable
Town
,
belonging
to
the
Cascieflik
of
Fiúm
,
scituate
at
the
end
of
the
Wilderness
,
about
five
hours
journeying
from
Fiúm
for
a
Horseman
.
When
we
had
rested
here
a
while
,
and
drunk
some
Coffee
,
according
to
the
custom
of
the
Country
,
we
march'd
on
in
our
way
,
and
enter'd
into
Fiúm
about
Noon
.
At
my
first
arrival
,
I
lodg'd
in
a
publick
Inn
called
Ocalet
Beida
,
scituate
near
the
Market
,
and
almost
ruinated
,
till
I
could
meet
with
a
better
and
more
convenient
abode
.
About
ten
days
after
I
chang'd
my
dwelling
,
because
I
was
too
much
in
the
eye
of
the
Turks
,
and
caus'd
them
to
be
too
jealous
of
me
,
which
a
Franc
ought
to
be
careful
of
,
that
he
may
not
be
censur'd
and
affronted
by
them
.
I
took
a
lodging
near
the
Christians
dwellings
,
at
a
Turks
house
,
called
Tatar
Sciaban
,
who
was
a
very
honest
man
,
notwithstanding
his
Religion
.
As
soon
as
the
Turks
see
a
Franc
in
a
Village
or
Country
,
chiefly
where
they
never
saw
him
before
,
they
imagine
immediately
that
he
is
loaden
with
Diamonds
and
Pearls
.
They
take
therefore
notice
of
all
his
steps
,
to
find
out
some
occasion
to
quarrel
with
him
;
and
of
all
places
of
Turkie
,
this
happens
most
frequently
in
Egypt
.
As
soon
as
I
was
in
the
Town
,
the
report
spread
about
,
that
a
rich
Franc
with
a
great
Train
was
come
.
The
Cadi
thinking
therefore
that
he
had
a
person
from
whom
he
might
draw
a
sum
of
Money
,
because
he
believ'd
that
I
was
a
Merchant
come
thither
to
buy
Wines
in
the
Vintage-time
to
carry
them
to
Cairo
,
which
Commodity
is
forbidden
in
all
the
Territories
of
the
Grand
Seignior
,
he
desired
the
Naib
Gaibe
,
or
Soubachi
of
the
place
,
to
endeavour
to
find
out
my
designs
,
and
to
let
him
understand
them
;
for
he
promised
to
give
him
half
the
money
that
he
should
get
out
of
me
,
if
I
did
buy
any
Wines
.
For
this
purpose
the
Naib
Gaibe
,
or
Soubachi
,
a
Renegade
Fleming
,
who
spoke
well
his
Mother-tongue
,
came
to
my
lodging
with
two
Ruffians
,
and
enter'd
into
my
Chamber
whiles
I
was
taking
out
my
Cloaths
,
and
without
saluting
any
body
,
sate
down
in
a
Corner
,
which
is
the
place
that
belongs
to
the
Master
of
the
house
in
the
East-Countries
:
The
Ruffians
stood
at
the
door
,
leaning
upon
their
Staves
.
I
was
mightily
surpriz'd
to
see
such
a
person
come
to
visit
me
.
I
called
to
my
Janizary
to
know
what
he
would
have
;
he
answered
,
that
he
understood
that
I
was
a
Franc
,
and
that
he
was
come
to
know
whether
I
would
buy
any
Wine
,
because
he
would
recommend
me
to
that
which
was
very
good
.
I
reply'd
,
that
if
he
had
no
other
business
,
he
might
spare
himself
the
trouble
and
pains
that
he
took
,
that
I
was
never
a
Merchant
of
Wines
,
and
would
not
now
begin
;
and
that
we
Francs
care
not
much
for
the
poor
Wines
of
his
Country
.
To
this
he
held
his
peace
.
He
enquir'd
what
Countryman
I
was
;
when
I
had
told
him
that
I
was
of
the
City
of
Erford
in
Germany
,
he
seem'd
to
rejoyce
,
because
he
had
found
one
in
such
a
far
Country
whom
he
might
name
his
Countryman
,
for
he
said
he
was
of
Amsterdam
.
He
promis'd
me
his
friendship
;
we
eat
afterwards
together
,
and
I
caus'd
him
to
drink
Wine
as
much
as
he
would
,
which
was
very
pleasing
to
him
:
when
the
liquor
had
a
little
chear'd
his
spirits
,
he
discover'd
to
me
the
design
of
the
Cadi
,
and
the
cause
of
his
Visit
;
by
this
means
he
became
one
of
my
best
Friends
in
Egypt
,
and
my
safety
whiles
I
continued
in
that
Town
,
without
whom
I
should
not
have
escap'd
the
Train
that
was
laid
for
me
.
After
a
little
rest
in
my
lodging
,
I
sought
some
means
to
strike
acquaintance
with
the
Bishop
of
the
place
,
called
Amba
Michel
,
who
had
a
very
good
repute
of
an
honest
and
a
learned
man
,
because
I
was
desirous
to
have
some
body
to
converse
with
,
and
to
spend
my
time
with
some
advantage
to
my self
;
I
obtain'd
this
with
ease
,
for
he
came
a
few
days
after
and
lodg'd
at
my
house
:
I
am
much
beholding
to
him
for
many
things
that
he
hath
told
me
concerning
their
Belief
and
Ceremonies
,
which
I
have
inserted
in
my
Church
of
Alexandria
.
Let
us
now
see
the
description
of
the
Town
and
Territory
of
Fium
.
The
Town
of
Fium
,
the
chief
of
the
Province
whereof
it
bears
the
name
,
is
large
and
full
of
people
:
It
is
built
upon
the
Ruines
of
the
old
Arsinoe
,
which
is
near
adjoyning
on
the
West-side
.
Though
the
most
part
of
the
houses
are
but
little
,
and
made
of
Bricks
dried
in
the
Sun
,
they
are
nevertheless
commodious
,
and
some
,
where
the
Officers
and
Commanders
dwell
,
are
large
and
beautiful
.
There
be
many
Copties
Christians
,
and
a
Bishop
,
but
no
Church
within
the
Walls
;
they
perform
their
Devotions
at
Desie
,
a
Village
near
by
.
An
artificial
Channel
cut
from
the
River
passeth
through
this
City
,
from
East
to
West
:
They
name
it
Bahr
Jusef
,
or
the
River
of
Joseph
,
for
they
believe
that
Joseph
,
Jacobs
Son
,
caus'd
it
to
be
made
.
'T
is
call'd
also
Calitz
il
Menhi
,
or
the
Channel
of
Menhi
.
This
Channel
is
remarkable
,
because
it
keeps
fresh
water
all
the
year
,
which
proceeds
from
several
Fountains
there
,
but
it
is
too
shallow
to
carry
Boats
but
when
the
River
overflows
.
It
begins
about
three
days
journey
from
Fium
,
drawing
towards
the
South
,
near
a
Village
named
Tarut
Isscerif
,
where
I
have
been
.
It
runs
,
when
it
hath
left
the
Town
,
into
the
Lake
named
Birket
il
Kern
,
or
the
Lake
of
Charon
,
where
the
waters
become
salt
.
In
this
Town
are
to
be
seen
many
Relicks
of
Antiquity
,
as
Capitals
,
Antick
Works
,
Pillars
of
Marble
broken
.
In
the
Corn-market
is
to
be
seen
a
great
Pillar
,
entire
laid
upon
the
ground
,
and
a
great
Mill-stone
,
both
of
a
red
stone
;
and
almost
in
all
houses
is
to
be
seen
something
very
remarkable
for
its
antiquity
.
Here
is
made
much
Linen
for
the
house
,
and
Canvas
to
pack
up
the
Commodities
of
the
Country
:
They
have
a
great
deal
of
Flax
,
which
yields
a
great
benefit
;
strak'd
Linen
is
plentiful
here
,
and
very
good
,
with
which
the
Country-people
cloath
themselves
.
The
Leather
of
this
Country
is
much
esteem'd
,
but
chiefly
the
Blankets
that
are
made
here
are
the
finest
of
the
Levant
,
and
are
carried
all
over
the
world
.
Here
are
also
made
Sacks
of
Network
of
Cord
,
to
carry
upon
Camels
Straw
,
or
dried
Dung
to
burn
,
or
Stones
,
or
some
such
thing
,
for
they
never
use
Carts
.
This
Territory
is
very
fruitful
and
pleasant
,
and
all
that
grows
here
is
of
a
better
taste
than
in
the
other
Provinces
.
Here
are
Fields
full
of
Rose-trees
,
and
Woods
of
Fig-trees
,
which
are
not
in
other
parts
of
Egypt
.
The
Gardens
are
full
of
all
manner
of
Trees
,
bearing
Fruit
;
as
Pear-trees
,
Orange-trees
,
Lemon-tree
,
Peach-trees
,
Plumb-trees
,
Apricock-trees
,
and
many
others
that
are
sent
to
be
sold
at
Cairo
,
which
yields
them
a
great
profit
.
In
Fium
only
,
of
all
the
Provinces
of
Egypt
,
are
Vineyards
;
and
in
these
Villages
only
,
in
Fidimin
where
I
have
been
,
in
Nacalife
,
Seliin
,
Abukesa
,
Agiamiin
,
Gerrado
,
and
Tobhar
.
They
make
Wine
thus
:
They
press
the
Grapes
either
with
their
Feet
,
or
other
wise
,
into
a
great
Earthen
Vessel
;
they
put
afterwards
the
new
Wine
into
a
Sack
of
course
Linen
,
and
strain
it
into
another
Vessel
;
from
thence
they
draw
it
,
and
secure
it
in
Jars
well
pitch'd
within
,
which
contain
about
twelve
thousand
Drams
.
Now
these
Jars
they
place
in
the
Sun
during
seven
days
,
leaving
them
open
,
that
the
new
Wine
might
purge
it self
;
they
stop
them
afterwards
with
Palm-leaves
,
and
cover
them
close
with
Mud.
They
leave
their
Wine
in
this
manner
,
till
they
intend
to
drink
it
.
This
Wine
is
not
much
esteemed
of
by
the
Francs
,
because
there
remains
so
much
dregs
that
come
out
into
the
Cup
with
the
Wine
;
but
if
they
had
but
the
art
of
clearing
and
clarifying
the
Wine
,
it
would
be
doubtless
a
very
pleasant
Wine
,
for
the
Grapes
are
very
sweet
,
and
pleasing
to
the
taste
.
I
have
not
seen
a
Province
in
Egypt
that
is
so
much
cut
into
Channels
as
this
:
They
all
proceed
from
Josephs
River
,
and
they
are
made
to
water
the
Fields
with
more
ease
;
and
because
this
great
number
of
Ditches
would
hinder
men
from
travelling
up
and
down
,
were
it
not
for
the
Bridges
,
here
be
more
than
in
any
other
part
of
Egypt
.
They
are
all
made
with
burnt
Bricks
,
and
very
strong
:
The
Tradition
saith
,
that
they
were
builded
in
the
days
of
the
Pharaoh's
;
and
it
is
the
opinion
of
the
Copties
,
that
these
Kings
imployed
the
Israelites
in
making
Bricks
for
these
Bridges
,
which
is
very
probable
;
for
it
is
certain
,
that
almost
an
infinite
number
of
men
are
needful
to
make
such
a
prodigious
quantity
of
Bricks
.
This
Province
of
Fium
anciently
had
three
hundred
threescore
and
five
Towns
and
Villages
,
but
now
there
be
but
threescore
and
two
;
all
the
other
have
been
swallowed
up
in
the
Lake
Kern
,
or
destroyed
by
the
tyranny
of
the
Governours
.
The
Cascief
dwells
in
the
Town
:
He
pays
now
to
the
Pacha
five
and
twenty
Purses
,
and
five
to
his
Kehaja
,
or
Lieutenant
,
and
to
his
Agas
.
He
pays
for
his
Province
two
hundred
purses
in
four
payments
.
The
Divan
of
Cairo
allows
him
three
Cornets
of
Horse
,
or
Spahins
,
to
keep
his
Country
,
unto
whom
he
pays
every
six
Months
five
and
twenty
Piasters
,
which
is
but
a
small
allowance
;
so
that
they
are
but
poorly
clad
,
and
appear
as
so
many
Beggars
,
rather
than
as
the
Souldiers
of
so
great
an
Emperour
.
The
ancient
Town
of
Arsinoe
,
scituated
near
Fium
,
on
the
North-East-side
,
is
now
totally
ruinated
:
There
remains
nothing
of
it
now
,
but
a
great
many
Mountains
very
high
raised
,
with
the
ruines
and
rubbish
of
the
Town
.
They
shew
sufficiently
,
that
it
was
one
of
the
greatest
and
most
glorious
Cities
of
Egypt
.
The
people
of
the
Country
call
it
,
Medinet
Fares
,
or
the
Town
of
the
Persian
;
but
I
could
never
understand
the
cause
of
this
name
.
They
say
that
it
was
destroyed
and
burnt
by
Cats
,
which
the
Enemies
set
into
it
when
they
had
tyed
Fire-brands
at
their
Tails
,
which
scattered
the
fire
into
every
corner
of
the
City
,
and
burnt
it
to
ashes
.
The
Copties
call
it
in
their
Books
Arsinoe
,
and
Pliny
calls
all
that
Province
,
the
Government
of
Arsinoe
.
On
the
24th
of
this
Month
I
went
to
Fidintin
,
a
Village
distant
from
Fium
about
two
hours
riding
,
towards
the
West
,
to
visit
the
Bishop
,
who
was
gone
thither
out
of
the
Casciefs
sight
.
I
was
cloathed
in
a
Turkish
habit
,
with
a
Janizary
and
a
Negre
well
armed
,
upon
good
Horses
.
Our
coming
put
the
poor
Bishop
into
such
a
fright
,
that
he
thought
himself
already
kill'd
,
when
he
heard
that
three
strange
Horse-men
ask'd
for
him
.
He
thought
at
first
that
we
were
some
sent
by
the
Cascief
to
do
him
an
injury
.
These
poor
people
are
become
wonderful
timerous
,
through
the
continual
tyranny
of
those
Barbarians
,
so
that
at
the
least
motion
they
tremble
and
shake
.
He
was
pretty
well
satisfied
,
when
I
told
him
that
I
was
a
Franc
come
purposely
to
crave
acquaintance
with
him
:
He
entertain'd
us
in
a
very
poor
dwelling
,
invited
us
into
his
Parlour
,
and
treated
us
with
very
good
Wine
of
the
Country
.
When
we
had
spent
some
hours
in
conversation
with
him
,
we
went
to
see
the
Vines
of
that
Quarter
,
and
in
the
Evening
we
return'd
home
to
the
City
.
The
29th
of
the
same
Month
I
went
to
Bijamuh
,
a
Village
about
half
a
League
from
Fium
,
towards
the
North
,
to
see
an
ancient
thing
,
the
Body
of
a
great
Statue
of
a
Gyant
,
of
a
red
Stone
,
without
Head
or
Arms
,
standing
upon
a
Basis
.
This
Statue
is
behind
the
Village
,
in
a
great
broad
Road.
I
could
never
learn
what
it
is
,
because
the
Country-people
have
no
Tradition
of
it
;
and
in
the
Histories
of
Egypt
there
is
no
mention
made
of
it
.
I
have
only
learnt
that
the
people
of
the
Country
call
it
the
Statue
of
Pharaoh
;
which
I
think
not
to
be
true
,
because
it
is
the
custom
of
the
Egyptians
to
entitle
all
things
of
an
extraordinary
bigness
with
the
name
of
Pharaoh
,
from
a
conceit
they
have
that
they
were
all
Gyants
.
The
Basis
of
this
Statue
is
square
,
of
hewn
stones
that
are
very
great
,
every
stone
hath
two
foot
and
a
half
in
breadth
,
and
almost
ten
foot
in
length
;
the
fore-front
hath
five
Perches
in
length
,
that
is
about
thirty
foot
.
Near
this
Basis
five
others
stand
in
a
Demi-circle
,
but
less
,
and
without
any
Statue
upon
them
.
The
Bishop
inform'd
me
,
that
heretofore
in
this
Village
was
an
Agiasma
,
or
Fountain
of
holy
Water
,
called
by
the
Arab.
Ein
il
Mandura
;
and
that
every
Holy-Thursday
a
great
many
Christians
were
wont
to
meet
there
to
drink
of
this
Water
out
of
devotion
,
but
that
the
people
of
the
place
,
who
are
all
Mahometans
,
have
stop'd
it
up
,
to
prevent
the
continuance
of
this
Superstition
.
When
we
had
well
seen
these
things
,
we
return'd
to
the
Town
,
and
in
our
way
we
went
over
the
Ruines
of
the
ancient
Arsinoe
,
where
I
saw
nothing
remarkable
,
but
some
old
Walls
which
my
Guide
told
me
were
the
remains
of
a
Bath
.
When
we
were
come
near
the
Town
,
we
left
it
on
the
left
hand
,
and
went
to
see
the
Needle
of
Bibig
,
whereof
this
is
the
description
.
This
Needle
is
placed
on
the
ground
,
without
any
Basis
,
in
the
middle
of
a
Corn-field
,
in
a
place
where
is
no
house
,
nor
mark
of
any
that
hath
been
there
.
It
is
distant
from
Fium
about
a
long
half
league
,
near
a
Village
called
Bibig
,
from
whence
it
borrows
the
name
.
This
Village
is
scituated
on
the
South-west
of
Fium
,
and
belongs
unto
it
.
It
is
built
in
a
long
square
,
very
high
;
its
largest
sides
have
six
foot
,
and
the
narrowest
are
of
four
.
This
Needle
abuts
not
into
a
sharp
point
,
as
others
in
Egypt
and
Italy
,
but
the
top
is
made
like
an
Asses
back
:
On
the
South-side
,
which
is
one
of
the
largest
,
there
are
three
ranks
of
Images
,
that
represent
Men
and
Women
holding
one
another
by
the
hand
:
under
these
three
ranks
begin
fourteen
ranks
of
Hieroglyphick
Characters
,
about
the
bigness
of
a
finger
,
which
are
to
be
read
from
the
top
to
the
bottom
;
every
rank
is
divided
from
the
other
,
which
is
near
,
with
a
line
that
is
drawn
between
,
all
along
the
Needle
:
So
that
without
doubt
this
Needle
is
the
most
curious
that
may
be
seen
.
In
every
one
of
the
lesser
sides
is
but
one
rank
of
lesser
Characters
,
which
yet
continue
very
clear
and
beautiful
.
There
is
one
thing
to
be
lamented
at
,
that
time
hath
almost
blotted
out
the
Figures
,
from
the
middle
of
the
Pillar
to
the
bottom
;
and
that
the
Stones
have
not
been
able
to
defend
themselves
from
corruption
,
being
much
worn
out
:
It
is
of
a
red
Stone
,
as
all
others
.
It
s
top
is
like
an
Asses
back
,
and
very
large
,
sit
for
the
Vultures
and
Hawks
to
pitch
upon
it
at
night
:
These
Birds
have
so
whitened
it
with
their
dung
,
that
the
uppermost
Figures
are
scarce
to
be
discern'd
.
I
have
taken
notice
,
that
all
the
Needles
that
I
have
seen
in
Egypt
,
stand
not
upon
any
Basis
,
but
upon
the
ground
,
which
makes
me
believe
that
the
invention
of
planting
them
upon
a
Basis
,
is
not
derived
from
the
Egyptians
,
but
from
the
Romans
,
who
having
taken
notice
that
this
kind
of
Pillar
was
very
useful
,
and
contain'd
great
Mysteries
in
their
Characters
,
they
have
rais'd
them
upon
a
Basis
,
to
render
them
more
remarkable
and
considerable
to
the
curious
.
We
return'd
to
the
Town
about
Noon
.
A
little
Journey
to
Sennuris
.
SVnday
the
31.
of
July
I
went
to
Sennuris
,
a
Village
belonging
to
the
Cascieflik
of
Fium
,
scituate
on
the
North
of
this
Town
,
and
about
four
hours
travelling
on
Horseback
,
to
see
the
remains
of
Antiquity
that
are
there
,
and
thereabouts
;
besides
my
Servants
,
some
other
Copties
Christians
went
with
me
.
When
I
had
a
little
rested
my self
at
Sennuris
,
in
the
house
of
Sciech
il
Beled
,
the
Chief
of
the
Village
,
a
Moor
,
where
my
friends
oblig'd
me
to
take
my
lodging
,
I
went
to
take
notice
of
the
Village
,
which
is
great
,
and
very
beautiful
;
and
at
the
same
time
I
saw
the
Church
of
the
Copties
dedicated
to
the
Archangel
S.
Michael
,
but
it
is
very
mean
.
Nevertheless
,
I
took
notice
there
of
one
thing
very
remarkable
,
namely
,
a
square
stone
,
where
are
three
little
Figures
cut
the
first
represents
the
Archangel
S.
Michael
,
the
middle
represents
the
Virgin
Mary
,
who
holds
in
her
Arms
her
Son
,
and
the
third
the
Angel
Raphael
.
The
names
of
every
one
is
written
underneath
in
Greek
Letters
,
in
the
Copties
Language
.
This
stone
is
a
foot
and
a
half
long
from
side
to
side
:
The
Priests
informed
me
,
that
this
Stone
was
heretofore
in
the
Chancel
,
but
when
they
saw
that
the
people
render'd
homage
to
these
Figures
,
they
plac'd
them
in
a
corner
of
the
Church
,
that
they
might
hinder
them
from
Idolatry
.
They
offer'd
it
to
me
for
a
Piaster
and
a
half
,
because
I
seem'd
to
value
it
at
a
high
rate
;
I
would
not
take
it
,
because
I
had
no
intent
to
return
so
soon
to
Cairo
,
but
to
go
further
into
Sayda
.
At
the
West-side
of
the
Village
,
about
a
Musquet-shot
from
it
,
is
to
be
seen
a
very
ancient
Bridge
of
Bricks
,
made
for
a
Passage
for
the
River
when
it
overflows
.
The
People
of
the
Country
say
,
that
Joseph
,
Jacob's
Son
,
caused
it
to
be
built
.
It
is
apparent
by
its
Ruines
,
that
heretofore
it
was
very
great
,
but
now
there
remains
no
more
but
four
Arches
.
Round
about
this
Village
is
sown
a
great
deal
of
Flax
,
but
it
is
not
esteem'd
so
good
as
that
which
grows
in
other
parts
of
Egypt
.
At
that
time
there
was
,
as
well
as
at
,
Fiúm
,
a
want
of
fresh
Water
,
because
the
people
of
the
Country
usually
cast
into
the
River
their
Hemp
,
where
they
take
their
Water
to
drink
;
this
had
so
poisoned
the
Waters
,
that
they
did
stink
,
so
that
I
was
forced
to
cause
some
fresh
Water
to
be
brought
from
Fiúm
,
which
is
about
four
hours
distant
from
this
Village
.
In
an
evening
I
walk'd
to
see
the
Lake
Kern
,
which
is
very
near
Sennúris
,
on
the
West-side
.
This
Lake
is
narrow
,
but
long
,
for
I
was
told
that
it
is
about
two
days
travelling
for
a
Horse
,
in
length
.
This
is
doubtless
the
Lake
Miris
mentioned
by
Pliny
,
when
he
saith
,
Inter
Arsinoïten
Prafecturam
,
ac
Memphiten
Lacus
fuit
,
circuitu
CCL.M.
passuum
,
aut
ut
Mutianus
tradit
,
CCCCL
.
M
.
&
latitudinis
L.
passuum
,
manu
factus
à
Rege
qui
fecerat
Moeridis
appellatus
:
For
there
is
no
other
Lake
between
Fium
,
which
is
Arsinoe
,
and
the
City
of
Memphis
,
or
the
place
where
it
stood
.
At
its
Eastern
end
is
plac'd
the
Village
Tamích
,
mentioned
before
;
and
in
its
West
end
is
the
famous
Castle
of
Vizir
Caron
,
of
which
I
shall
speak
hereafter
.
This
Lake
receives
all
the
Waters
that
run
from
the
Fields
when
Nilus
is
overflown
,
and
from
the
River
of
Joseph
▪
they
become
salt
because
the
Earth
is
full
of
Niter
.
Here
is
much
Fish
,
chiefly
a
Fish
called
is
Arab.
Houd
,
which
I
have
described
in
the
Chapter
concerning
the
Fish
of
Nilus
.
On
the
other
side
of
the
Lake
are
Desarts
of
Sand
very
large
;
I
have
heard
from
Persons
worthy
to
be
believed
,
that
there
are
to
be
seen
many
remarkable
Ruines
of
ancient
Towns
,
particularly
of
Temeh
issebag
,
or
of
Temeh
of
Lieus
;
a
Town
so
named
because
of
the
Statues
of
Lieus
that
were
there
to
be
seen
.
Here
is
also
to
be
seen
the
Ruines
of
an
ancient
Monastery
named
Deir
Abulífe
,
or
the
Monastery
of
Abulífe
.
They
told
me
,
that
they
had
seen
the
Labyrinth
which
is
at
the
end
of
the
Lake
Westerly
,
mentioned
by
Pliny
,
when
he
saith
,
There
was
a
Labyrinth
in
the
Lake
of
Moeridis
,
built
without
any
Wood.
This
Labyrinth
is
named
now
by
the
Egyptians
,
Cassr
Carun
,
or
the
Castle
of
Vizir
Caron
;
a
famous
Lord
in
the
Histories
of
the
Arabians
,
because
of
his
Treasures
which
are
said
to
be
here
buried
,
and
kept
by
dreadful
Talismans
.
They
tell
me
,
that
this
Castle
hath
three
hundred
and
threescore
and
five
Chambers
,
so
intangled
one
into
another
that
a
man
cannot
get
out
,
if
when
he
comes
in
he
doth
not
take
notice
of
the
way
.
This
Report
gave
me
a
great
desire
to
venture
to
see
all
these
Wonders
at
any
rate
:
I
had
already
agreed
with
the
Chieftain
of
the
Village
,
to
have
from
him
a
Guard
of
twelve
Men
,
whom
he
knew
to
be
faithful
and
trusty
;
but
my
Janissary
,
a
timerous
Fellow
,
spoil'd
my
design
,
by
shewing
me
the
danger
there
was
of
the
Arabians
;
he
threatned
likewise
the
Guard
,
to
tell
the
Cascief
,
which
would
have
created
me
some
trouble
.
I
conceive
that
this
Relation
may
beget
a
desire
in
some
Traveller
to
go
and
see
this
Curiosity
,
therefore
I
will
give
him
a
little
advice
which
shall
help
him
to
accomplish
his
design
.
He
must
know
,
that
he
ought
not
to
go
to
the
Labyrinth
from
Sennuris
,
or
to
the
other
side
of
the
Lake
,
but
to
Senhur
,
a
Village
distant
from
Sennuris
about
an
hours
travelling
;
for
there
the
Fisher-men
of
the
Lake
Caron
dwell
,
who
are
best
able
to
carry
Men
thither
:
But
it
is
very
needful
that
a
Franc
,
who
will
undertake
this
Voyage
,
be
well
learn'd
in
the
Arabian
Tongue
,
that
he
be
well
cloathed
according
to
the
Mode
of
the
Country
,
that
he
may
not
be
known
,
and
chiefly
let
him
dissemble
his
design
as
much
as
he
can
;
for
if
he
fails
in
any
of
these
particulars
,
he
will
doubtless
be
lost
.
The
Moors
,
who
are
very
jealous
of
the
Treasures
that
are
said
to
be
there
,
will
knock
him
on
the
head
,
that
he
may
not
carry
them
away
.
I
staid
three
days
at
Sennuris
,
for
the
place
did
please
me
,
and
the
Inhabitants
were
very
civil
.
I
return'd
to
Fium
,
second
day
of
August
,
very
much
displeas'd
with
my
Janissary
,
because
he
had
cross'd
my
design
.
On
the
second
day
of
this
Month
the
Water
of
Nilus
enters
into
the
Channel
of
Joseph
,
which
passeth
through
Fium
,
as
we
have
said
.
Then
its
Waters
are
purified
,
and
purged
from
its
stinking
qualities
which
the
Flax
and
Hemp
give
it
:
Then
the
Cisterns
of
the
Town
are
fill'd
with
Water
,
which
the
Inhabitants
drink
all
the
year
long
,
therefore
this
inundation
makes
all
the
people
of
the
Country
round
about
to
rejoice
.
A
Walk
to
the
Pyramide
of
Havara
.
BEtween
the
Towns
of
Fium
and
Benesuef
,
which
are
distant
the
one
from
the
other
about
a
little
days
Journey
,
there
be
two
great
Pyramides
;
the
one
is
near
Fium
,
the
other
nearer
to
Benesuef
.
The
first
is
named
Haram
Havara
,
the
Pyramide
of
Havara
:
The
other
Haram
Ilahun
,
the
Pyramide
of
Ilahun
.
Thursday
,
the
4th
of
August
,
I
went
to
that
of
Havara
,
so
called
from
the
neighbouring
Village
Havara
.
It
Stands
about
an
hour
and
a
halfs
walking
from
Fium
,
on
the
South
side
,
scituated
in
a
sandy
Wilderness
,
like
that
which
is
over
against
Cairo
,
where
the
Pyramides
stand
:
when
we
were
gone
beyond
a
certain
Bridge
of
Brick
,
very
old
,
which
is
upon
the
Highway
of
Benesuef
,
we
left
it
,
to
take
a
shorter
course
;
but
we
found
cause
to
repent
it
,
because
the
way
was
craggy
and
full
of
Sand.
We
were
oblig'd
also
to
go
through
the
Bahr
Belame
,
or
the
River
without
Water
,
which
caused
us
to
endure
much
trouble
and
fear
,
in
regard
of
the
depth
that
was
extraordinary
,
and
our
being
forced
to
climb
up
again
.
And
when
we
had
overcome
all
these
difficulties
,
and
were
near
the
Pyramide
,
about
six
hundred
Paces
from
it
we
met
with
a
Ditch
of
the
River
of
Joseph
,
full
of
Water
;
we
could
not
get
over
it
,
but
were
forced
to
stay
on
that
side
,
and
from
thence
take
a
vi●w
,
at
a
distance
,
of
the
Pyramide
,
to
my
great
displeasure
.
I
took
notice
,
that
in
its
elevation
and
breadth
,
it
was
much
like
the
second
Pyramide
which
is
at
Gize
,
but
the
length
of
time
hath
almost
reduc'd
it
to
Dust
,
so
that
it
appears
like
a
sharp
Mountain
of
Sand
,
rather
than
a
Pyramide
.
The
Desart
where
it
stands
,
is
like
that
of
the
Mommies
which
is
near
Saccàra
.
Some
Wells
of
Mommies
are
here
to
be
found
,
whereof
the
entry
is
fill'd
up
with
Sand
,
and
some
are
half
empty
.
Upon
the
ground
are
scattered
,
here
and
there
,
Bones
of
Mommies
,
broken
Wood
,
and
pieces
of
Coffins
;
so
that
one
may
say
that
it
is
altogether
like
that
of
Saccàra
.
But
because
we
were
without
any
Guide
,
and
my
Janissary
was
a
very
Coward
,
having
none
but
him
with
me
,
he
allarm'd
me
several
times
with
the
fear
of
the
Arabians
,
besides
,
our
Beasts
were
tired
with
the
deep
way
;
I
was
therefore
constrain'd
to
set
bounds
to
my
Curiosity
,
and
to
return
to
the
Town
,
passing
through
the
River
without
Water
,
near
its
Mouth
,
leaving
on
our
left
hand
,
near
the
Pyramide
of
Havara
,
the
Ruines
of
an
ancient
Town
,
whereof
I
could
never
understand
the
name
;
and
a
little
further
,
on
the
same
side
,
the
Village
of
Havara
,
from
whence
this
Pyramide
borrows
the
name
,
and
at
a
little
distance
from
this
Village
,
a
very
ancient
Bridge
,
and
very
high
,
which
is
made
to
give
a
passage
to
the
River
Nilus
when
it
overflows
:
We
return'd
to
Fium
again
about
Noon
.
For
the
other
Pyramide
,
called
of
Ilahun
;
the
Arabian
Historians
say
,
that
Joseph
,
Jacob's
Son
,
caused
into
be
built
.
It
is
so
nam'd
from
the
Village
Ilahuis
,
near
adjoining
,
belonging
to
the
Cascieflik
of
Benesuef
;
but
because
I
could
not
look
upon
it
,
but
at
a
distance
,
I
cannot
well
describe
it
.
The
Reader
may
see
what
Macrizi
faith
of
it
.
A
Walk
to
the
Monastery
Casciabe
.
ON
the
19th
of
August
I
went
to
the
Monastery
of
Casciabe
,
distant
from
Fium
about
two
hours
walking
,
or
thereabouts
,
drawing
towards
the
South-East
in
the
Wilderness
,
called
by
the
Arabians
,
Gebel
Naklon
,
or
the
Mountain
of
Naklon
.
In
our
way
to
this
Monastery
we
went
over
several
Bridges
of
Brick
,
very
strong
,
made
by
the
ancient
Egyptians
:
And
we
left
at
our
right
hand
at
the
entry
of
the
Wilderness
,
which
is
about
half
way
,
the
Monastery
of
Deir
il
azeb
;
and
a
little
further
,
at
our
left
hand
,
the
Ruines
of
an
ancient
Town
overthrown
,
of
which
I
could
never
learn
the
name
.
The
Monastery
of
Casciabe
is
very
ancient
;
it
is
almost
totally
ruinated
,
unless
it
be
the
Church
dedicated
to
the
Arch-Angel
Gabriel
,
which
is
very
beautiful
,
and
painted
in
the
inside
with
the
Passages
of
holy
Writ
.
The
top
of
this
Church
is
supported
by
Pillars
that
stand
at
a
distance
,
and
of
divers
Stones
.
Under
this
Church
is
another
that
I
could
not
see
,
because
the
Provisions
of
the
Monastery
were
there
shut
up
.
This
Church
was
built
by
one
named
Vr
,
the
Son
of
Ibrascit
,
a
very
famous
Magician
;
who
,
as
the
Arabian
Histories
relate
,
had
this
Child
by
a
Daughter
of
an
Eastern
King
.
When
at
last
this
Vr
had
left
the
Art
of
Magick
which
his
Father
had
taught
him
,
he
addicted
himself
to
Virtue
,
so
that
afterwards
he
became
Bishop
of
Fium
,
and
built
this
Church
,
and
Tradition
saith
,
that
the
Virgin
Mary
laid
the
Foundation-stone
of
the
Church
,
and
of
the
Altar
,
and
the
Archangel
S.
Michael
mark'd
out
the
Quire
,
and
the
rest
of
the
Church
.
Many
remarkable
things
happened
whiles
this
Church
was
building
;
I
mention
them
not
for
brevity
sake
,
they
that
will
understand
them
,
may
read
the
Arabian
Manuscript
mentioned
before
,
and
now
in
the
Kings
Library
.
On
the
top
of
the
Mountain
,
behind
this
Monastery
,
on
the
South-side
,
are
yet
to
be
seen
the
ruines
of
an
ancient
Town
,
which
the
Copties
say
was
inhabited
by
the
Patriarch
Jacob
,
and
for
this
cause
they
name
it
yet
Modsellet
Jacub
,
or
the
Tabernacle
of
Jacob.
A
little
higher
,
upon
the
same
sandy
Mountain
,
are
to
be
seen
many
Caves
where
the
Hermits
anciently
lived
;
I
went
into
some
of
them
out
of
curiosity
,
they
are
very
little
,
and
there
is
in
them
nothing
extraordinary
:
when
I
had
taken
a
view
of
all
that
was
remarkable
,
I
return'd
to
Fium
in
the
Evening
.
The
Country
had
been
some
days
dround
about
Fium
,
which
oblig'd
the
Commanders
of
the
Militia
,
and
the
Cascief
,
to
retreat
to
Cairo
.
And
because
the
Robbers
are
very
formidable
at
this
time
,
and
commit
many
disorders
,
I
was
oblig'd
to
return
also
to
Cairo
.
I
went
from
Fium
the
16th
of
August
in
the
morning
,
and
returned
the
same
way
that
I
came
,
and
the
next
day
I
was
at
Cairo
in
the
Evening
,
after
five
and
twenty
days
abode
at
Fium
.
At
my
return
to
Cairo
,
I
began
my
Church
of
Alexandria
;
a
very
curious
work
,
and
very
useful
to
the
world
,
and
chiefly
to
the
Learned
that
desire
to
understand
how
the
Churches
of
the
East
agree
with
the
Roman
.
It
contains
all
the
Ceremonies
and
Doctrines
of
the
Ancient
and
Venerable
Church
of
the
Copties
,
which
is
that
of
Alexandria
.
I
have
taken
them
out
of
two
Manuscripts
in
Arab.
very
ancient
and
rare
,
unknown
to
us
in
Europe
before
now
;
the
one
is
called
il
Mosbah
iddolme
d'
Abulbaracat
,
and
the
other
,
il
Giauharet
innefisse
fielm
il
Kenise
.
I
have
been
very
exact
and
diligent
in
composing
this
Book
,
that
it
might
render
my
name
immortal
.
I
shall
endeavour
to
give
it
to
the
Press
as
soon
as
I
shall
be
return'd
to
Rome
,
where
I
make
my
ordinary
abode
.
The
second
of
September
,
which
was
the
third
Friday
after
the
opening
of
the
Calitz
,
a
skilful
Swimmer
caused
himself
to
be
admired
of
all
the
City
,
by
a
very
bold
action
;
he
had
his
arms
tyed
behind
his
back
,
his
feet
tyed
at
an
Iron
Chain
,
which
weighed
ten
pounds
:
In
this
manner
he
ventur'd
to
swim
upon
his
back
,
from
the
mouth
of
the
Calitz
.
to
the
end
of
the
Town
,
which
is
about
three
quarters
of
an
hour
walking
a-foot
.
This
custom
hath
been
anciently
us'd
in
Cairo
:
A
skilful
Swimmer
performs
this
every
year
,
two
Fridays
following
after
that
the
Calitz
is
open'd
.
The
Pacha
gives
him
for
his
reward
a
thousand
Meidins
,
which
make
three
and
thirty
Piasters
.
The
Guards
of
the
Soubachi
went
before
him
in
a
Boat
,
to
hinder
him
from
receiving
any
harm
:
about
five
and
twenty
other
Boats
full
of
Spectators
followed
.
He
swum
this
year
but
once
,
because
Ibrahim
Pacha
,
who
loved
not
such
useless
expences
,
commanded
him
away
when
he
came
to
demand
his
ordinary
wages
;
therefore
instead
of
a
thousand
Meidins
,
he
gave
him
but
one
hundred
.
There
is
another
that
swims
in
the
same
manner
as
this
,
from
the
beginning
of
the
Calitz
to
the
end
of
the
City
.
He
had
his
feet
tyed
with
a
Chain
,
a
Dish
of
Coffee
in
one
hand
,
and
a
Pipe
of
Tobacco
lighted
in
the
other
,
at
his
mouth
.
The
Pacha
usually
gives
him
the
same
reward
;
but
because
the
former
had
not
had
his
usual
Salary
,
this
last
would
not
this
year
shew
his
dexterity
.
I
was
told
that
these
Swimmers
eat
nothing
for
three
days
but
Cich-Peasen
,
and
that
they
swallow
their
breath
so
long
time
,
which
causeth
their
Bellies
to
swell
,
and
become
light
as
an
empty
Bladder
.
I
was
told
also
,
that
sometimes
they
kill
themselves
,
or
at
least
become
very
sick
.
On
the
12th
of
September
the
Pacha
caused
the
Treasure
of
the
Grand
Seignior
to
depart
for
Constantinople
with
its
ordinary
guard
and
pomp
.
There
were
one
and
thirty
Mules
loaden
with
Spanish
Coyn
,
and
Zequins
of
Venice
.
This
Treasure
amounts
usually
to
one
thousand
two
hundred
Purses
,
and
each
Purse
to
five
hundred
Crowns
.
The
Sangiac-Bey
that
carries
it
is
obliged
to
expend
all
the
Moneys
needful
for
this
Voyage
,
and
it
costs
him
usually
one
hundred
Purses
,
or
fifty
thousand
Crowns
.
The
Caravan
begins
to
march
in
the
beginning
of
the
Moon
and
arrives
at
Constantinople
at
the
end
of
one
hundred
days
.
This
Treasure
is
taken
first
out
of
the
Carache
,
or
Tribute
of
the
Lands
and
Villages
which
the
Farmers
Rent
of
the
Divan
;
for
all
the
Lands
of
Egypt
,
unless
it
be
the
Patrimony
of
the
Mosques
,
and
the
Lands
belonging
to
Micha
,
are
the
Grand
Seigniors
,
because
he
conquer'd
Egypt
with
the
Sword
.
2.
It
is
taken
out
of
the
Douanes
of
Alexandria
,
of
Rosetta
,
of
Bouquir
,
of
Damietta
,
of
Brullos
,
of
Boulak
,
and
of
Ibrim
.
3.
Out
of
the
Chordis
.
4.
It
is
taken
out
of
the
Lakes
and
Pits
of
Nitre
,
which
are
in
the
Desart
of
S.
Macarius
,
and
out
of
the
Salt-pits
near
Alexandria
.
5.
From
the
Shambles
of
Cairo
,
whereof
I
have
already
spoken
.
6.
From
the
Custom-house
or
Douane
of
the
Bohars
,
or
Spices
;
and
generally
from
all
Merchandizes
imported
from
Mecha
,
Mocoa
,
and
the
Indies
.
7
From
the
Mint
.
8.
From
the
Giavali
,
or
Tribute
which
the
Christians
of
the
Levant
,
and
the
Jems
are
oblig'd
to
pay
for
their
Heads
.
9.
From
the
Treasure
called
Beit
il
mal
,
which
comprehends
all
the
deceased
goods
.
10.
From
the
Office
of
Surveyor
of
the
Provisions
.
The
same
day
I
saw
the
Mosque
of
Califfe
Hakem
be
amr
ille
:
It
stands
out
of
Cairo
upon
the
Mountain
called
Gebel
il
mocattam
;
but
now
there
appears
nothing
but
the
Walls
.
The
same
Califfe
had
made
near
this
Mosque
a
place
to
observe
the
course
of
the
Stars
,
named
in
Arab.
Rassad
ve
Mofatek
beta
Hakem
,
which
is
now
ruinated
;
he
made
use
of
it
to
make
his
Talismans
,
as
art
in
which
he
was
very
skilful
.
The
Egyptians
say
that
he
could
go
in
and
out
into
all
the
Caves
under
ground
,
where
he
knew
the
Treasures
of
the
ancient
Kings
and
Lords
of
Egypt
to
be
hid
,
and
that
he
could
make
use
of
them
when
he
pleas'd
;
and
that
by
the
power
of
Magick
,
and
the
extraordinary
skill
that
he
had
in
that
Art
.
According
to
the
example
of
those
great
men
,
a
little
before
his
death
he
buried
his
own
Treasures
,
and
put
a
Crocodile
made
by
the
Talismanical
Art
to
keep
them
.
In
this
Mountain
,
and
near
this
Mosque
,
he
caused
several
Caves
to
be
digg'd
wide
and
large
in
the
Rock
,
so
as
to
pass
from
one
into
the
other
;
in
the
furthermost
he
cause
a
Pond
to
be
made
to
keep
water
in
,
cut
in
the
Rock
;
in
it
is
a
Crocodile
that
begins
to
fly
at
one
as
soon
as
a
man
enters
in
.
Moreover
,
in
the
bottom
of
the
water
,
is
to
be
seen
a
door
which
leads
to
other
Caves
under
ground
,
where
the
Records
of
Egypt
declare
that
his
Treasures
are
hid
.
No
man
can
imagine
from
whence
this
water
can
come
,
for
the
Cave
is
upon
a
high
Mountain
which
is
very
dry
always
,
and
in
this
place
is
no
Spring
:
And
it
is
not
known
what
this
Crocodile
is
,
and
how
he
may
be
nourished
,
during
so
many
ages
.
To
take
this
Treasure
,
you
must
know
how
to
undo
this
Talisman
,
that
is
,
one
must
take
away
the
water
,
and
the
life
of
the
Crocodile
;
for
both
are
the
effects
of
Magick
,
which
depend
upon
the
Art
of
the
Talismans
.
I
have
been
very
diligent
in
Egypt
,
to
seek
for
,
and
send
to
Paris
,
amongst
other
rare
Manuscripts
,
the
ancientest
and
best
Authors
of
the
Arabians
,
which
might
give
some
light
and
knowledge
of
this
Noble
Science
.
I
may
say
that
I
have
emptied
Egypt
of
such
kind
of
Books
,
with
an
intent
that
if
I
was
ever
admitted
to
the
service
of
him
who
had
given
me
this
Commission
,
I
might
have
the
time
and
the
means
to
discover
with
ease
the
admirable
secrets
of
this
Science
,
and
to
unfold
the
Enigms
under
which
it
lies
hid
;
and
by
the
same
means
to
discover
of
what
consequence
those
Manuscripts
are
,
though
they
are
despised
by
some
that
understand
not
neither
their
price
nor
use
.
The
Reader
may
peruse
an
Arabian
Manuscript
in
Quarto
,
called
,
Eijun
it
hekajek
,
ve
eidah
il
terajek
,
of
Meimun
the
Magician
that
teacheth
the
means
to
destroy
all
manner
of
Talismans
.
He
may
read
another
in
Octavo
,
called
,
Kitab
gaiet
il
maareb
,
Fi
menajeh
ve
il
chabaia
,
ve
il
medaleb
,
that
discovers
the
places
of
all
the
Treasures
of
Egypt
,
their
value
,
the
Figure
of
the
Talisman
that
keeps
them
,
and
how
to
destroy
them
;
I
have
sent
them
both
to
the
Kings
Library
.
On
the
12th
and
20th
of
September
,
I
went
to
see
the
Great
Aqueduct
,
called
in
Arab.
it
Migro
,
that
conveys
water
from
the
River
into
the
Pacha's
Castle
.
This
Aqueduct
is
near
Nilus
in
old
Cairo
;
the
Mouth
there
stands
a
Castle
of
a
Hexagone
Figure
very
high
,
supported
by
as
many
Arches
very
lofty
.
There
is
an
ascent
through
a
large
way
,
open
towards
Heaven
,
made
sloping
about
,
for
the
conveniency
of
the
Oxen
that
draw
water
out
of
the
River
,
and
cause
it
to
mount
up
by
seven
Wheels
as
high
as
the
Platform
on
the
top
of
the
Castle
,
where
there
is
a
large
Pond
or
Bason
to
receive
the
water
,
and
about
it
seven
great
holes
like
Wells
,
which
have
given
the
name
to
this
Castle
of
the
Seven
Wells
.
The
water
runs
from
this
Bason
into
the
Aqueduct
,
which
appears
,
and
from
thence
it
goes
into
the
Caraffe
,
which
is
at
a
great
distance
,
where
it
meets
with
the
Earth
as
high
as
the
Aqueduct
;
and
then
it
stops
there
,
and
runs
next
into
a
Channel
under
ground
to
the
Pachas
Stable
,
from
whence
it
runs
into
his
Cistern
,
and
furnishes
the
Castle
.
This
Aqueduct
is
supported
by
three
hundred
and
seventeen
high
Arches
,
and
not
by
three
hundred
and
fifty
,
as
a
certain
Traveller
saith
,
for
I
have
exactly
number'd
them
my self
:
They
are
made
as
well
as
the
Castle
of
great
square
stones
,
cut
as
we
do
Diamonds
:
One
of
the
Supporters
on
the
chief
side
is
about
eight
foot
nine
inches
broad
,
and
under
the
Arch
it
is
only
eight
foot
.
The
opening
of
one
of
the
Arches
is
fourteen
foot
and
a
half
broad
.
The
Copties
say
that
Mekaukes
,
a
famous
man
of
their
Nation
,
and
Governour
for
the
Emperour
Heraclius
,
made
this
Aqueduct
,
but
they
are
mistaken
;
for
when
this
man
governed
in
Egypt
,
the
Castle
of
Cairo
was
not
in
being
,
for
it
was
built
four
hundred
and
forty
four
years
after
;
and
therefore
this
Aqueduct
that
now
supplies
it
with
water
was
not
then
needful
;
besides
,
the
Inscriptions
in
the
Arabick
Tongue
declare
,
that
this
is
a
work
of
the
Mahometan
Kings
;
if
I
be
not
mistaken
,
I
have
read
that
it
was
Sultan
Gauri
,
the
last
King
but
one
of
the
Mammelukes
,
that
caused
it
to
be
built
.
The
Pacha
taketh
out
of
the
Revenues
of
the
Grand
Seignior
all
that
is
needful
to
keep
up
this
Aqueduct
;
for
that
purpose
be
nourisheth
threescore
Oxen
,
and
gives
wages
to
five
men
and
a
Ciurbachi
that
looke
after
it
.
On
the
13th
of
the
Month
of
September
,
I
went
to
visit
the
Patriarch
of
the
Copties
,
one
of
my
best
Friends
;
and
because
I
had
often
intreated
him
to
come
and
dine
with
me
,
I
reiterated
the
same
intreaty
now
again
;
but
he
answered
me
,
that
he
had
not
been
out
of
his
house
a
year
before
for
fear
of
the
Turks
:
He
complain'd
,
that
all
the
Patriarchs
of
the
other
Sects
had
the
liberty
to
go
about
the
Town
,
without
fear
of
being
disturb'd
by
any
,
to
visit
whom
they
pleas'd
,
and
to
travel
whither
they
listed
;
but
he
was
so
narrowly
observed
by
the
Turks
,
that
he
could
not
so
much
as
go
out
of
his
house
,
nor
talk
with
any
of
other
Nations
openly
,
much
less
travel
into
any
other
place
,
but
he
must
give
them
a
jealousie
of
plotting
against
the
State
;
by
this
means
his
life
would
be
in
danger
.
I
must
needs
confess
,
that
there
is
no
Nation
in
Egypt
so
much
afflicted
as
are
the
Copties
,
because
they
have
no
body
amongst
them
who
deserves
to
be
honoured
for
his
Knowledge
,
or
feared
for
his
Power
and
Authority
▪
for
all
that
were
rich
and
wealthy
,
are
destroyed
by
the
cruelty
of
the
Mahometans
:
therefore
the
rest
are
now
look'd
upon
as
the
Scum
of
the
World
,
and
worse
than
the
Jews
.
The
Turks
abuse
them
at
their
pleasure
;
they
shut
up
their
Churches
,
and
the
doors
of
their
Houses
when
they
please
,
upon
light
occasions
,
altogether
unjust
,
to
draw
from
them
some
sums
of
Money
.
There
was
such
a
tyrannical
Action
practised
upon
them
in
this
Month
of
September
;
for
certain
Janissaries
cut
the
Throat
of
a
Whore
,
and
cast
her
Body
into
the
Lake
Ezbekie
.
Upon
that
the
Soubachi
nailed
up
the
Doors
of
all
the
Houses
of
the
Copties
round
about
,
and
caused
them
wrongfully
to
lay
down
the
Sum
of
two
thousand
Piasters
for
this
blood
spilt
,
before
they
could
have
their
Houses
opened
again
,
and
freedom
for
their
lives
.
They
endured
another
Cruelty
in
the
same
Year
;
for
Pacha
Ibrahim
increased
their
ordinary
Tax
in
this
manner
.
Till
this
Year
they
were
not
all
obliged
to
pay
the
same
Sum
of
Money
.
They
were
not
all
bound
to
pay
it
into
the
Treasury
of
the
Grand
Seignior
;
for
some
were
bound
to
pay
it
to
certain
Mosques
,
othere
to
Sciech
il
Becri
,
who
is
a
great
Lord
,
and
comes
from
Abn
Becr
,
Califf
,
or
Successor
of
Mahomet
;
and
others
to
other
Lords
,
called
in
Arab.
Sadats
.
They
that
payed
to
the
Mosques
,
or
Lords
,
were
called
Lay-Tributaries
:
And
they
that
payed
to
the
Treasure
of
the
Grand
Seignior
were
called
Tributaries
of
the
Grand
Seignior
.
The
first
sort
of
Tribute
is
very
moderate
,
because
it
seldom
amounted
to
above
two
Piasters
;
but
the
last
hath
always
been
,
and
is
yet
,
one
hundred
and
twenty
Para's
,
that
is
,
four
Piasters
and
a
quarter
.
Besides
this
,
the
Villages
and
Towns
were
taxed
only
in
common
:
For
Example
,
such
a
Village
was
tax'd
to
pay
such
a
Sum
,
according
to
the
number
of
the
Christians
that
dwell
there
;
and
when
the
Chouli
,
or
the
Collector
,
went
to
receive
it
,
he
tax'd
every
one
according
to
his
ability
:
The
poor
paid
little
,
the
rich
more
;
so
that
this
Tribute
was
equal
.
But
in
this
Year
1672.
Ibrahim
Pacha
taxed
them
all
as
Tributaries
to
the
Grand
Seignior
;
and
upon
the
same
account
causing
them
all
to
pay
equally
one
hundred
and
twenty
Para's
;
out
of
which
the
Pacha
paid
that
which
was
due
to
the
Lords
and
Mosques
,
and
the
rest
was
put
into
the
Grand
Seigniors
Coffers
.
This
novelty
hath
reduc'd
the
poor
Copties
to
despair
;
therefore
when
the
Collectors
come
into
any
Village
to
gather
the
Tribute
,
they
fly
to
the
Mountains
,
leaving
all
to
secure
themselves
from
violence
,
and
affronts
that
would
be
done
to
their
Persons
.
That
the
Receivers
of
the
Tribute
might
know
them
that
have
paid
it
,
they
leave
a
little
Ticket
of
coloured
Paper
,
sealed
with
the
Seal
of
their
Chieftain
,
where
the
name
of
the
Christian
is
written
,
his
Village
,
his
Province
,
his
Dwelling
,
his
Age
,
the
Day
,
the
Month
,
and
the
Year
that
he
hath
paid
.
But
they
put
not
into
this
Ticket
the
whole
Sum
of
one
hundred
and
eight
and
twenty
Para's
,
which
they
require
,
but
only
one
hundred
and
three
,
because
there
is
no
more
that
goes
into
the
Treasury
of
the
Grand
Seignior
;
the
other
five
and
twenty
Meidins
are
for
the
Farmer
of
the
Caraffe
,
paid
to
him
because
of
the
great
expences
which
he
is
at
,
to
entertain
a
great
many
Men
for
the
discharge
of
his
Office
.
The
Christians
carry
always
with
them
this
Ticket
,
to
shew
it
when
they
are
questioned
by
the
Men
that
belong
to
the
Farmer
,
and
this
is
their
Acquittance
.
The
18th
of
September
I
bought
,
of
an
Arabian
,
a
great
Lizard
,
alive
,
called
in
their
Language
,
Varal
.
I
caused
it
to
be
skinned
,
and
sent
the
Skin
to
Monsieur
Arnoul
,
Superintendent
of
the
Kings
Galleys
at
Marseilles
.
The
body
of
this
Lizard
was
altogether
like
that
of
the
Crocodile
,
the
Skin
excepted
,
which
was
gray
and
spotted
,
as
that
of
a
Serpent
,
and
without
any
Shells
.
It
was
three-foot
long
,
and
had
five
Fingers
to
each
Foot
,
and
long
white
Nails
,
as
have
the
Crocodiles
.
It
s
Tongue
was
forked
as
that
of
a
Serpent
,
the
Headlong
,
and
the
Muzzle
sharp
.
Its
Teeth
were
strong
,
and
cutting
;
the
Arabians
told
me
,
that
its
biting
was
venomous
and
deadly
.
I
have
since
recover'd
another
of
a
differing
sort
,
when
I
was
in
the
Monastery
of
S.
Anthony
.
The
Head
of
this
was
like
that
of
a
Tortell
,
and
its
Tail
very
big
,
and
lessening
by
degrees
,
and
ending
into
a
small
point
.
It
was
full
of
knots
round
about
,
as
so
many
Shells
.
This
Lizard
was
not
venomous
,
for
I
took
it
with
my
Hand
,
and
when
I
had
well
consider'd
it
,
I
gave
it
to
an
Arabian
Dog
that
eat
it
.
A
Voyage
to
the
Monastery
of
S.
Anthony
the
Great
.
WHEN
I
had
rested
my self
,
a
considerable
while
,
at
Cairo
,
after
my
return
●rom
Fium
,
and
the
great
heats
were
over
;
I
re●olved
to
travel
to
the
Monastery
of
S.
Anthony
,
●o
see
in
this
venerable
place
the
foot-steps
of
●he
Father
,
and
Founder
of
all
the
Monks
.
For
that
●urpose
I
left
off
writing
my
Church
of
Alex●ndria
,
and
I
embarqu'd
my self
the
26th
of
September
,
in
the
Afternoon
,
at
Old
Cairo
,
in
a
Vessel
loaden
,
and
bound
for
the
upper
Egypt
.
I
landed
at
Benesuef
,
a
great
Town
,
in
the
Cascieflick
of
Be●nese
,
about
two
days
travelling
from
Cairo
.
I
saw
nothing
remarkable
in
this
way
.
The
Villages
,
and
Monasteries
,
before
which
we
passed
,
were
the
Convent
or
Deir
il
aduvie
mentioned
before
,
the
Convent
of
the
Abbot
Bersum
il
erian
,
or
or
S.
Bersom
the
naked
,
scituate
in
the
East
of
Nilus
,
where
his
body
rests
.
The
Village
of
Scieh
il
etmani
,
scituate
on
the
West-side
,
and
the
little
Monastery
of
S.
Anthony
at
the
East-side
of
Nilus
.
Bousche
,
a
great
Village
on
the
West
,
where
the
Monks
of
S.
Anthony
have
their
Farm
:
at
last
,
Benesuef
,
on
the
West-side
of
this
River
.
He
that
will
travel
to
the
Monastery
of
S.
Anthony
,
ought
first
to
land
at
Benesuef
,
and
enquire
from
the
Christians
of
that
place
,
whether
the
ways
be
free
or
not
.
If
they
be
free
,
he
ought
to
go
to
Beiha
,
which
is
a
Village
scituate
almost
over
against
Benesuef
,
on
the
East-side
of
Nilus
,
in
the
Cascieflik
of
Atfieh
.
There
he
ought
to
bargain
with
the
Arabians
that
dwell
there
,
concerning
the
price
,
the
number
of
the
Camels
,
and
Men
that
he
desires
to
lead
with
him
:
which
when
he
hath
done
,
he
ought
to
cause
them
to
confirm
the
Bargain
before
some
of
their
Chieftains
,
by
repeating
over
the
Fatha
,
which
is
the
first
Chapter
of
their
Alcoran
;
for
which
the
Mahometans
have
a
great
veneration
,
and
as
much
as
the
Christians
have
for
their
Pater
,
or
Credo
;
otherwise
he
must
not
expect
that
they
will
be
faithful
.
But
when
they
have
said
th●
Prayer
he
may
go
with
them
confidently
,
at
if
h●
were
with
his
own
Brethren
:
which
sufficiently
declares
,
that
there
is
no
people
in
the
World
,
never
so
barbarous
and
savage
,
but
have
a
respect
for
their
own
Religion
.
And
if
at
any
time
any
other
cross
interest
hath
blinded
them
to
commit
any
perfideous
Action
,
God
hath
punished
them
at
the
same
instant
for
it
with
severity
;
so
that
they
would
have
wish'd
that
they
had
kept
their
Faith
,
as
the
Reader
may
understand
by
what
follows
.
Besides
the
Price
that
he
is
to
give
them
,
he
ought
to
grant
them
some
quantity
of
Beans
for
their
Camels
,
and
give
them
some
Meidins
to
buy
Sandals
,
for
the
ways
are
full
of
sharp
stones
:
He
ought
to
buy
them
some
Meal
,
black
Bisket
,
ordinary
Hony
,
and
Tobacco
,
as
much
as
will
be
needful
,
to
accomplish
the
Voyage
,
and
the
number
of
the
Men.
He
must
not
forget
every
Morning
and
Evening
to
give
a
Dish
of
Coffee
to
every
one
;
if
he
delivers
it
generously
,
and
freely
,
he
may
promise
to
himself
a
happy
Voyage
,
and
to
be
well
tended
.
The
Arabians
have
the
care
to
provide
Vessels
to
grease
,
and
fill
them
with
the
River-water
,
for
there
is
none
to
be
found
in
the
way
;
or
if
there
be
,
it
is
so
noisome
,
and
ill-tasted
,
that
it
is
not
drinkable
.
There
is
two
ways
that
lead
from
this
Village
Beiha
,
to
this
Monastery
.
The
first
called
,
by
the
Arabians
,
il
Tarik
il
Kihli
;
the
upper
way
:
and
the
other
il
Tarik
il
bahri
,
the
under
way
;
in
respect
of
this
Village
from
whence
they
set
out
.
The
under
way
is
the
shortest
,
the
most
frequented
,
and
that
which
the
Caravan
takes
,
keeping
upon
the
bank
of
the
River
for
a
while
;
and
when
one
leaves
it
,
the
way
turns
at
the
right
hand
into
the
Wilderness
,
to
a
place
called
Gibei
.
There
is
the
first
Well
which
Nature
hath
digged
deep
in
a
firm
Rock
,
into
which
the
Rain-water
runs
;
which
Water
is
white
as
Milk
,
and
sweeter
than
that
of
Nilus
.
About
a
days
Journey
farther
is
another
,
at
the
left
hand
of
the
High-way
,
at
the
foot
of
a
high
Mountain
,
called
Gebel
il
cheleil
;
but
its
Water
is
noisome
and
green
,
and
the
We●●
is
full
of
Canes
.
A
little
farther
is
another
,
very
well
known
to
Travellers
,
because
it
is
near
the
Dwelling
of
a
famous
Arabian
called
Eid
il
beidavi
;
but
the
Caravan
never
goes
thither
but
when
they
want
Water
,
because
it
stands
from
the
High-way
,
at
a
distance
:
Therefore
when
they
are
furnished
with
Water
at
the
second
Well
,
they
pass
at
the
left
hand
streight
to
the
Monastery
.
The
upper
way
leads
from
Beiha
towards
the
South-East
,
and
after
a
day
and
a
halfs
travelling
it
goes
to
the
East
.
In
this
way
are
neither
Waters
,
nor
Trees
,
nor
Houses
,
nor
Grass
;
therefore
it
is
needful
to
make
good
Provision
of
Water
at
Beiha
for
the
whole
Journey
.
Therefore
,
knowing
this
before
,
I
took
at
Beiha
a
Camel
purposely
to
carry
Water
,
and
four
others
for
me
and
my
followers
,
the
Abyssin
,
the
Coptie
,
and
Idris
my
Blackamoor
.
Besides
these
,
I
took
with
me
five
Arabians
,
armed
with
Lances
,
to
go
on
foot
,
and
take
charge
of
the
Camels
;
and
to
protect
us
,
if
perchance
any
Robbers
should
have
assaulted
us
;
so
that
we
were
in
all
ten
in
number
,
and
five
Camels
.
When
we
had
got
all
that
was
needful
for
the
Voyage
,
we
went
from
Beiha
on
Friday
the
30th
of
September
,
about
three
a
Clock
in
the
Afternoon
.
Though
the
under
way
was
the
shortest
,
and
the
most
frequented
,
yet
we
chose
the
upper
way
,
that
we
might
not
meet
with
the
Arabians
,
the
declared
Enemies
of
those
that
conducted
us
.
When
we
had
travelled
four
days
through
a
boundless
Plain
of
Sand
,
which
was
not
moveable
,
but
hard
,
and
full
of
sharp
cutting
stones
,
that
cut
as
so
many
Razors
,
we
arrived
at
last
,
through
a
thousand
turnings
,
to
the
Monastery
,
the
third
day
of
October
.
The
Monastery
of
S.
Anthony
,
which
includes
another
,
anciently
peopled
by
the
Abyssins
,
and
now
totally
ruinated
,
is
in
the
Wilderness
,
now
called
in
Arab.
Gebel
Araba
,
or
the
Mountain
of
Carts
;
because
heretofore
Provisions
were
carried
thither
upon
Carts
,
and
not
upon
Camels
,
as
now
.
It
is
built
upon
the
decline
of
the
Mount
Colzim
,
at
its
Eastern
end
,
which
reaches
from
East
to
South
:
It
appears
like
a
long
Square
;
and
the
Front
of
the
Monastery
,
which
stretches
from
North-East
to
North
,
looks
against
another
Mountain
called
Gebel
il
Cheleil
,
of
which
I
shall
speak
hereafter
.
It
is
incompassed
in
with
an
high
Mountain
,
but
feeble
,
and
unable
to
make
any
resistance
;
for
it
is
old
,
and
built
with
Bricks
dried
in
the
Sun
.
There
is
no
Gate
to
the
Monastery
,
one
enters
in
by
a
Pulley
,
Men
and
Beasts
are
all
drawn
up
over
the
Wall
.
It
hath
a
large
Circuit
,
about
six
hundred
Fiddans
,
or
two
thousand
four
hundred
Acres
within
the
Walls
.
The
Monks
of
the
Levant
dwell
not
together
in
the
same
Cells
,
as
those
of
Europe
,
but
every
one
hath
a
little
House
or
Cell
to
himself
,
and
these
Cells
are
more
or
less
beautiful
and
convenient
,
according
as
the
Country
hath
experienced
the
cruelty
of
the
Turks
.
Therefore
the
Monasteries
of
the
Levant
,
and
chiefly
those
of
the
Archipelago
,
are
like
so
many
great
Towns
or
Castles
,
because
of
their
Walls
,
Turrets
,
and
number
of
houses
that
are
within
;
but
the
Monasteries
of
Egypt
have
nothing
of
that
splendour
,
because
the
Mahometans
have
been
here
more
cruel
than
in
any
other
Country
subject
to
them
.
Nevertheless
,
this
Monastery
is
like
those
of
Greece
,
for
it
is
surrounded
with
Walls
:
In
the
middle
is
a
Dungeon
,
and
round
about
many
Houses
where
the
Monks
live
;
but
in
regard
it
has
been
destroyed
long
ago
by
the
Arabians
,
it
hath
remain'd
in
that
condition
threescore
and
ten
years
:
The
Copties
who
have
lost
,
under
the
tyranny
of
the
Mahometans
,
all
their
strength
and
power
,
could
never
yet
restore
it
to
its
former
estate
.
Therefore
the
Cells
now
are
very
little
,
and
poor
,
of
yellowish
Earth
,
without
Timber
,
Plaister
,
Order
,
or
Symmetry
:
they
are
so
low
,
that
a
man
may
easily
reach
up
to
the
top
with
his
hand
:
therefore
the
Monks
cannot
well
stand
upright
:
there
is
a
little
light
that
enters
in
through
holes
in
the
wall
,
about
a
foot
long
;
the
doors
are
so
low
,
that
one
must
stoop
low
to
go
in
;
that
which
is
most
commodious
,
is
that
they
have
all
flat
roofs
for
the
Monks
to
take
the
air
at
night
,
when
the
Sun
is
gone
,
and
to
sleep
when
they
please
.
Their
dining-place
is
very
dirty
,
and
obscure
:
There
is
for
Strangers
a
place
of
it self
,
large
and
decent
,
with
two
other
Chambers
hard
by
to
put
their
Goods
and
Cloaths
;
and
a
little
Kitchin
.
The
Gardens
are
very
large
,
and
great
,
and
considerable
,
because
of
the
Herbs
and
Fruits
that
they
bring
forth
.
One
might
make
of
them
the
most
pleasant
Gardens
of
the
World
,
because
of
their
convenient
scituations
,
for
they
lie
shelving
,
with
beautiful
Plains
.
There
are
two
small
Vines
that
yield
a
sort
of
White-wine
,
very
delightful
:
They
use
it
in
saying
of
Mass
,
and
in
treating
Strangers
of
Quality
that
come
thither
.
In
this
Monastery
is
a
great
quantity
of
fresh
water
,
as
clear
as
Crystal
,
but
very
salt
.
It
runs
from
the
Mount
Colzim
,
near
by
,
in
little
streams
,
under
the
Walls
,
into
the
Gardens
,
where
they
receive
it
in
places
made
on
purpose
.
They
drink
it
,
and
make
other
uses
of
it
.
It
is
not
very
wholesome
,
chiefly
for
those
that
are
not
accustomed
to
it
;
for
the
Niter
that
infects
it
,
causeth
Bladders
to
rise
under
the
Skin
,
and
torments
such
as
drink
of
it
with
itching
,
as
I
have
found
by
experience
.
Here
are
three
Churches
,
the
chief
is
that
of
S.
Anthony
;
it
is
little
,
but
very
ancient
;
and
as
the
Monks
told
me
,
it
is
the
same
that
S.
Anthony
built
,
and
the
only
thing
of
the
Monastery
that
hath
escap'd
the
rage
of
the
Arabians
.
Within
are
Pictures
of
many
Saints
,
painted
in
an
antick
and
simple
fashion
:
The
smoak
of
the
Frankincense
that
is
burnt
there
at
Divine
Service
,
hath
made
them
appear
as
black
as
a
Chimney
.
Near
this
Church
is
another
dedicated
to
S.
Peter
and
S.
Paul
,
within
a
little
Tower
,
and
one
Bell
,
about
a
foot
and
a
half
in
Diameter
:
serves
to
call
the
Monks
to
the
Service
of
God
,
and
to
their
other
imployments
.
There
is
no
other
Bell
in
all
Egypt
.
The
third
Church
is
in
the
Garden
,
dedicated
to
a
Lay
Monk
,
called
Mark
,
who
died
with
a
Reputation
of
Holiness
;
his
body
is
kept
there
.
In
the
middle
of
the
Monastery
there
is
a
square
Tower
,
with
stone
Walls
,
very
strong
;
from
the
bottom
of
the
Tower
to
the
Gate
,
which
is
about
three
Perches
high
,
it
is
very
firm
:
on
the
top
is
a
Draw-bridge
that
leads
to
this
Gate
;
but
to
come
to
it
,
one
must
climb
up
to
the
top
of
an
house
,
over
against
it
.
In
this
Tower
the
Monks
keep
all
their
Provisions
,
and
their
best
Moveables
;
and
they
fly
to
it
when
the
Roguish
Arabians
threaten
them
:
They
then
draw
the
Bridge
,
and
beat
them
off
with
Stones
from
the
Plat-form
.
Their
Rule
obliges
them
to
renounce
Matrimony
for
ever
,
all
carnal
desires
,
their
Parents
,
to
possess
no
Estate
,
to
dwell
in
the
Wilderness
,
to
be
cloathed
with
Wooll
,
to
be
girt
with
a
Leathern
Girdle
,
to
eat
no
Flesh
,
nor
drink
Wine
all
their
life-time
,
unless
they
be
reduc'd
to
the
last
necessity
,
to
shorten
their
dinner
,
and
to
deny
themselves
all
the
nourishments
without
which
the
body
is
able
to
live
.
It
commands
them
to
imploy
all
their
time
in
fasting
,
and
prayer
,
and
worship
,
to
have
always
their
mind
running
upon
God
,
to
apply
themselves
to
the
reading
of
the
Holy
Scriptures
,
and
to
understand
the
Truths
that
are
there
contain'd
.
It
obliges
them
to
sleep
upon
a
Mat
,
or
the
ground
,
their
Superiour
excepted
,
and
such
as
are
sick
;
not
to
take
off
their
Cloaths
,
and
their
Girdle
,
never
to
sleep
two
upon
the
same
Pillow
,
nor
near
one
another
.
In
short
,
their
Rules
oblige
them
to
repeat
the
Canonical
Prayers
,
to
prostrate
themselves
before
they
go
to
Bed
,
one
hundred
and
fifty
times
,
with
their
Faces
and
Bellies
to
the
ground
,
to
spread
out
their
arms
in
a
cross
,
with
the
fist
shut
,
and
at
every
rising
to
make
the
Sign
of
the
Cross
;
which
Prostrations
they
call
Metanoe
.
Besides
these
one
hundred
and
fifty
Prostrations
,
they
perform
seven
at
the
Church
;
one
before
every
Canonical
Prayer
,
which
make
up
in
all
one
hundred
and
fifty
seven
Prostrations
;
which
together
with
the
poor
nourishment
that
their
bodies
take
,
renders
them
very
lean
,
and
cast
down
;
so
that
they
appear
like
so
many
Skelletons
,
rather
than
men
.
Their
Cloaths
are
first
a
Shirt
of
white
Wooll
,
which
they
wear
always
upon
their
skin
.
2.
A
Wastcoat
of
brown
Wooll
,
very
course
,
not
open
before
.
3.
A
Vest
of
black
Serge
,
with
two
large
Sleeves
.
4.
Their
Capuchin
is
likewise
of
black
Serge
,
very
little
,
and
made
fit
to
the
Head
.
5.
Their
Girdle
is
of
Leather
,
three
singers
broad
.
6.
The
Mezerre
,
called
by
the
Copties
〈◊〉
〈◊〉
〈◊〉
〈◊〉
〈◊〉
,
and
sometimes
Biggos
,
is
a
great
Mantle
of
black
Stuff
,
lined
with
white
,
like
the
Cloaks
of
the
Jesuites
,
only
it
is
without
Collar
;
unless
it
be
when
they
Travel
,
they
seldom
use
it
.
The
7.
is
Askim
,
or
the
Angelick
Habit
,
called
in
Greek
〈◊〉
〈◊〉
〈◊〉
〈◊〉
〈◊〉
,
which
few
of
the
Monks
wear
,
because
they
have
not
strength
enough
,
as
they
say
,
to
do
the
Penance
that
the
Canons
have
appropriated
to
it
;
for
they
that
bear
it
,
are
obliged
to
prostrate
their
Face
and
Belly
to
the
ground
,
with
their
arms
a-cross
,
three
hundred
times
every
night
before
they
sleep
,
besides
the
fasting
,
and
other
mortifications
thereunto
annex'd
.
I
have
sent
one
of
these
Askims
to
the
Kings
Library
,
which
Amba
Michel
,
Bishop
of
Fium
,
gave
me
as
a
token
of
his
love
.
They
carry
always
a
stick
in
their
hands
,
made
in
the
form
of
a
Tan
,
T
,
upon
which
they
lean
when
they
are
at
their
prayers
;
for
they
perform
them
standing
,
and
are
very
tedious
in
them
.
They
have
all
upon
their
heads
a
Bonnet
,
called
in
Arab.
Cauk
,
which
is
like
that
which
the
Mahometans
wear
;
about
which
they
wrap
a
Turbant
of
a
Stuff
straked
with
blew
and
white
,
which
is
the
colour
of
all
the
Copties
in
Egypt
:
They
never
wear
any
Stockings
,
nor
their
Patriarch
.
The
Fast-days
they
observe
,
by
eating
then
but
one
Meal
;
but
on
the
Saturdays
and
Sundays
they
never
fast
,
but
eat
twice
.
On
the
Fast-days
they
dine
constantly
about
three
a
Clock
in
the
Afternoon
;
then
they
end
Mass
.
Their
ordinary
diet
are
Pulse
and
Herbs
seasoned
with
the
stinking
Oyl
of
Hemp
:
For
their
Desserts
they
have
Fruits
,
as
Onyons
,
dried
Dates
,
rotten
Olives
,
Melons
,
or
Cucumbers
,
or
Pompions
,
or
such
like
Fruits
as
are
in
season
.
They
never
eat
Flesh
in
the
Monastery
;
but
when
they
are
out
they
may
eat
it
;
for
their
Founder
never
forbad
them
,
as
they
say
:
For
fresh
Fish
they
seldom
have
any
,
because
their
Monastery
is
so
far
distant
from
Nilus
,
and
there
is
no
convenient
carriage
to
bring
them
any
.
And
though
the
Red-Sea
be
within
a
little
days
Journey
,
they
cannot
have
any
fresh
Fish
,
because
the
Sea-coast
being
not
inhabited
,
they
have
no
Instruments
to
catch
Fish
;
and
the
ways
are
dangerous
,
because
of
the
Arabian
Rogues
and
Robbers
.
At
Easter
they
never
fast
,
but
eat
Eggs
and
Milk
,
which
are
sent
to
them
from
their
Farm
;
only
three
times
a
year
they
have
liberty
to
drink
Wine
,
at
Christmas
,
at
Easter
,
and
Pentecost
.
They
sleep
always
in
their
Cloaths
;
and
instead
of
a
Blanket
,
they
have
only
a
Mat
,
very
course
,
made
with
Palm-leaves
,
and
stretched
along
upon
the
ground
.
They
are
the
makers
of
them
;
they
call
them
in
Arab.
Bursch
.
Their
imployments
are
not
the
same
,
according
to
every
mans
ability
:
Some
manure
and
dress
the
Gardens
,
others
are
Cooks
,
others
grind
at
the
Mill
;
some
are
upon
the
Guard
,
to
give
notice
when
any
Travellers
go
by
,
or
come
,
and
others
are
appointed
to
draw
up
those
that
will
come
in
,
and
let
down
those
that
desire
to
depart
;
such
as
have
no
imployment
,
make
Mats
.
They
never
study
;
they
are
satisfied
in
reading
Books
of
Devotion
:
amongst
the
rest
,
they
read
often
the
Synaxar
,
or
Book
of
Martyrs
;
the
Paradise
of
Monks
,
the
Climax
,
or
the
Ladder
of
Vertue
of
John
,
Abbot
of
the
Monastery
of
Mount
Sinai
;
the
Sermons
of
Paul
de
Busch
,
upon
the
Festivals
of
the
Blessed
Virgin
,
and
such
like
.
When
I
was
there
,
I
saw
but
two
Priests
,
the
Vicar
of
the
Monastery
was
one
;
and
the
other
,
who
had
not
said
his
first
Mass
,
was
the
Steward
.
All
the
others
,
that
were
seventeen
in
number
,
were
Lay-men
,
and
almost
all
either
with
one
eye
,
deaf
,
lame
,
and
halt
,
or
worn
out
with
old
age
;
and
if
amongst
them
any
were
young
,
he
did
but
seek
the
opportunity
to
escape
from
such
austerities
.
In
the
Tower
,
mentioned
before
,
were
three
or
sour
Trunks
full
of
old
Arabian
Manuscripts
,
and
some
in
the
Copties
Language
,
which
I
have
perus'd
:
And
though
they
were
all
Books
of
Devotion
belonging
to
the
Church
,
some
of
them
deserved
to
be
in
the
Kings
Library
;
but
because
the
Monks
were
not
willing
to
sell
them
,
for
they
belong'd
to
the
Monastery
,
fearing
the
Excommunication
of
their
Patriarch
,
which
is
written
in
the
beginning
of
every
Book
;
and
because
I
had
brought
with
me
but
so
much
Money
as
was
needful
for
my
Journey
,
for
fear
of
the
Thieves
,
I
was
not
very
earnest
to
buy
them
.
Two
amongst
the
rest
were
very
curious
,
which
I
had
a
great
desire
to
have
;
one
was
the
Copties
Grammar
and
Dictionary
in
Arabick
,
of
Ibn
il
assal
.
It
was
one
of
the
exactest
and
largest
that
ever
I
faw
:
They
esteem'd
it
worth
thirty
Crowns
;
I
dare
say
,
that
with
this
Dictionary
and
Grammar
it
is
possible
to
re-establish
the
Copties
Language
,
which
now
is
lost
:
The
other
Book
was
a
Rubrick
of
their
Ceremonies
in
Folio
,
very
well
written
.
In
regard
the
Arabians
are
the
Masters
of
the
Wilderness
,
this
Monastery
is
obliged
to
entertain
all
that
come
thither
,
or
pass
by
,
whether
Friends
or
Foes
:
To
their
Friends
they
pay
this
hospitality
to
preserve
their
friendship
,
and
to
their
Enemies
they
perform
it
,
to
please
them
,
and
hinder
them
from
doing
them
a
mischief
.
They
treat
not
all
in
the
same
manner
;
for
their
Friends
they
take
them
in
with
their
Equipage
,
when
they
have
need
,
and
they
nourish
them
all
the
time
that
they
desire
to
live
there
;
but
their
Enemies
never
enter
in
,
but
receive
from
them
,
by
a
Basket
let
down
from
the
Wall
,
all
necessaries
.
They
are
often
visited
by
these
Arabians
,
so
that
they
spend
every
year
a
great
deal
of
Meal
,
of
Bread
,
of
Bisket
,
of
Barly
,
of
Beans
and
Lentils
,
and
other
Provisions
.
I
shall
not
mention
the
trouble
that
the
Monks
suffer
,
and
the
displeasures
that
they
receive
from
these
ungrateful
Wretches
,
who
commonly
recompense
them
with
affronts
,
and
filthy
speeches
.
And
because
the
Arabians
that
inhabit
about
Egypt
are
of
divers
Families
,
and
differing
Interests
;
they
have
so
great
a
hatred
for
one
another
,
that
they
never
meet
without
fighting
.
Such
a
mischance
happen'd
the
next
day
after
my
arrival
;
for
the
Caravan
of
the
Summer
,
of
fifty
Camels
,
loaden
with
Provisions
for
the
Monastery
,
led
by
thirteen
Horsmen
of
the
Arabians
,
named
Benevasel
,
arrived
that
day
.
They
were
watched
by
other
Arabians
,
named
Ababde
,
their
Enemies
.
And
because
it
was
the
time
that
the
Dates
began
to
be
ripe
upon
the
Trees
,
some
of
them
when
they
had
unloaden
would
not
return
the
same
day
,
with
their
Companions
,
to
their
Villages
and
Cabbins
,
but
remain'd
behind
in
the
Monastery
,
to
take
their
pleasure
a
day
or
two
.
It
happen'd
the
next
night
that
those
that
slept
out
of
the
Monastery
,
about
their
Beasts
,
were
surpris'd
at
midnight
,
by
a
Company
of
threescore
Arabians
,
called
Ababde
,
who
took
from
them
fifteen
Camels
,
and
seven
Horses
,
all
their
Equipage
,
and
kill'd
three
of
them
,
and
wounded
five
,
of
whom
one
dyed
within
three
days
after
,
and
another
was
lost
,
none
knowing
what
was
become
of
him
;
for
four
days
after
his
Horse
was
found
alone
in
the
Wilderness
.
Their
fury
ended
not
with
this
Butchery
;
for
they
pursued
,
with
the
same
heat
,
those
that
had
brought
me
to
the
Monastery
.
They
overtook
but
four
,
and
carryed
away
from
them
their
Camels
,
all
their
Equipage
,
and
Money
that
I
had
given
them
,
and
wounded
three
very
dangerously
;
so
that
these
Wretches
being
not
able
,
in
this
sad
condition
,
to
proceed
on
in
their
Journey
,
they
return'd
back
to
the
Monastery
all
naked
,
and
in
a
pitiful
manner
.
They
were
afraid
to
appear
before
me
,
because
they
had
falsified
their
Faith
,
contrary
to
the
Laws
of
their
Nation
,
and
broken
their
agreement
with
me
,
in
making
me
pay
five
and
twenty
Meidins
more
than
I
had
agreed
with
them
.
Their
Conscience
did
reproach
them
of
this
baseness
,
so
that
they
imagin'd
that
this
mischance
happen'd
to
them
to
punish
their
perfideousness
.
I
cannot
sufficiently
express
how
much
trouble
this
unhappiness
created
me
,
as
well
as
to
the
Monks
;
for
these
Arabians
were
enraged
,
some
for
the
loss
of
their
Parents
and
Friends
,
others
for
their
Goods
,
which
they
were
resolved
to
recover
upon
me
and
the
Monks
.
They
threatned
to
kill
them
,
to
plunder
the
Monastery
;
and
out
of
a
perswasion
that
I
was
a
very
rich
Franc
,
they
threatned
to
break
open
my
Door
,
and
carry
away
all
that
I
had
.
So
that
the
Monks
had
much
ado
to
pacifie
them
,
by
giving
the
Shirts
,
Cloaths
,
Caps
,
Girdles
,
in
a
word
,
all
that
they
wanted
;
and
when
they
had
nothing
more
left
to
give
▪
they
came
to
me
,
intreating
me
to
help
them
in
their
need
;
so
that
I
was
oblig'd
to
give
them
a
Coat
,
and
a
Shirt
to
bury
an
Arabian
that
dyed
in
the
Monastery
.
I
gave
them
a
red
Cap
,
a
Turban
,
Money
very
often
,
that
I
might
not
be
betray'd
by
those
Monks
who
deliver'd
all
to
the
Arabians
,
without
telling
them
from
whence
it
came
.
But
at
last
the
Arabians
were
jealous
,
when
they
saw
that
I
continued
shut
up
,
without
shewing
my self
abroad
,
either
to
them
,
or
any
other
of
the
Monastery
;
and
my
privacy
made
them
believe
that
I
was
some
great
Person
that
was
afraid
of
them
.
They
resolved
therefore
to
give
me
a
visit
,
to
know
who
I
was
.
As
soon
as
the
Vicar
understood
their
intent
,
he
came
to
give
me
notice
of
it
,
that
I
might
take
a
course
accordingly
.
As
soon
as
I
understood
it
,
I
caused
all
my
Goods
to
be
carried
into
the
Tower
of
the
Monastery
,
leaving
nothing
in
my
Chamber
but
a
course
Mat
of
Palm
Leaves
stretched
upon
the
Floor
,
upon
which
I
sate
without
Carpet
or
Cushion
:
And
that
they
might
not
think
me
to
be
a
Franc
,
I
took
the
Habit
of
a
Monk
of
that
Convent
.
In
this
manner
I
expected
them
,
not
without
fear
.
The
next
day
about
noon
,
three
of
the
chief
enter'd
into
my
Chamber
with
their
Cangians
,
or
Cutlasses
,
at
their
Girdle
in
their
Bosoms
.
They
saluted
me
with
a
surly
look
,
asking
how
I
did
.
I
answer'd
their
civility
as
well
as
I
could
;
I
caused
them
to
sit
down
near
me
,
and
told
them
that
I
was
grieved
at
their
misfortune
,
and
that
I
was
not
able
to
assist
them
in
their
need
.
I
exhorted
them
to
trust
upon
God
and
S.
Anthony
,
who
was
as
well
their
Father
and
Protector
,
as
of
the
Monks
;
and
that
doubtless
he
would
comfort
them
,
and
give
them
one
day
the
opportunity
to
overcome
their
Enemies
.
These
words
pleased
the
Arabians
mightily
.
I
caus'd
my
Dinner
to
be
brought
,
and
though
I
had
with
me
all
my
Provisions
needful
from
Cairo
,
I
suffered
nothing
to
be
brought
but
Lentils
in
a
Wooden
Dish
,
with
Bread
soaked
in
it
,
and
a
few
Onions
,
I
intreated
them
to
eat
some
with
me
:
They
needed
not
much
invitation
.
One
may
imagine
what
was
in
my
mind
,
when
I
had
such
Guess
at
my
Table
;
but
fear
caused
me
to
dissemble
my
thoughts
.
After
Dinner
I
gave
them
Pipes
to
take
Tobacco
,
and
Coffee
according
to
the
Mode
of
the
Country
,
which
pleased
them
well
,
chiefly
in
this
place
where
little
of
that
Drink
was
to
be
seen
.
When
these
Arabians
saw
me
so
free
and
hearty
,
they
conceived
such
an
affection
for
me
,
that
they
promis'd
to
protect
me
,
if
any
of
their
Comrades
should
offer
to
affront
me
.
When
they
had
talked
with
me
some
hours
,
they
went
away
very
well
satisfied
,
and
told
their
Comrades
how
civil
I
had
been
.
By
this
one
may
understand
,
that
there
is
no
Nation
in
the
World
so
barbarous
;
but
is
to
be
won
by
fair
means
.
Some
days
before
;
the
Arabians
had
sent
some
of
their
Company
to
their
Parents
,
to
inform
them
of
their
loss
,
and
to
intreat
them
to
send
them
Beasts
to
help
home
their
sick
and
wounded
.
That
day
they
received
an
answer
,
that
such
of
them
as
could
return
home
on
foot
should
venture
,
but
that
the
others
should
continue
there
till
they
were
cured
of
their
wounds
;
and
that
none
durst
come
,
or
send
them
Beasts
,
for
fear
of
losing
them
.
Therefore
these
Wretches
when
they
saw
that
they
could
not
remain
any
longer
in
the
Monastery
,
resolved
to
depart
together
,
as
soon
as
their
sick
Persons
should
recover
any
strength
.
I
resolved
also
to
be
gone
;
for
the
little
satisfaction
that
I
found
there
,
took
away
all
desire
to
continue
there
any
longer
;
for
I
had
cause
to
fear
,
lest
the
news
of
this
Massacre
should
spread
about
the
Wilderness
,
which
might
have
caused
me
to
stay
there
all
the
Winter
,
for
want
of
an
opportunity
to
carry
me
away
.
I
hasten'd
therefore
my
departure
as
much
as
I
could
,
and
hired
three
Camels
of
an
Arabian
that
was
left
behind
in
the
Monastery
,
who
alone
was
able
to
furnish
us
:
I
was
to
give
him
a
Piaster
and
a
half
a-piece
;
moreover
I
promis'd
to
give
him
a
new
Suit
of
Apparel
for
an
Arabian
of
our
Company
that
had
been
stripp'd
,
whose
Kinsman
he
said
he
was
:
We
confirm'd
our
Agreement
before
all
the
Monks
,
by
the
Chapter
of
Fatha
,
according
to
the
Custom
of
the
Country
;
and
then
I
caused
my self
to
be
let
down
from
the
Window
of
the
Monastery
,
on
Munday
the
17th
of
October
,
leaving
with
joy
a
place
where
I
had
met
with
many
displeasures
.
We
took
the
way
and
road
of
the
Caravan
,
or
the
under
way
,
because
the
Camels
that
I
had
hired
lived
that
way
.
The
Arabian
that
was
to
be
my
Guide
having
but
one
in
the
Monastery
,
the
two
others
being
near
his
Lodging
,
which
was
in
a
Clift
of
Mount
Gebel
il
cheleil
,
over
against
the
Monastery
.
We
went
to
this
Lodging
,
or
about
a
days
travelling
from
thence
,
in
a
way
very
difficult
and
deep
;
and
because
this
Arabian
was
a
right
Devil
of
the
Mountains
,
as
they
term
themselves
in
boasting
.
As
soon
as
we
were
a
little
forwards
in
our
way
,
he
told
me
that
the
Price
that
we
had
agreed
upon
was
not
sufficient
,
and
that
I
must
promise
him
as
much
more
.
I
refused
to
grant
him
his
desire
,
which
was
contrary
to
all
reason
and
justice
,
he
led
us
therefore
two
days
up
and
down
in
the
Wilderness
,
sometimes
one
way
,
sometimes
another
,
threatning
to
leave
us
and
go
away
with
his
Camel
,
or
to
carry
us
back
to
the
Monastery
:
all
this
was
to
force
me
to
give
him
what
he
demanded
.
I
had
much
difficulty
to
hold
my
hands
from
striking
him
,
which
I
had
done
,
had
we
but
known
the
way
,
and
where
to
recover
Water
;
but
considering
that
I
was
lost
if
I
did
abuse
him
,
I
was
forced
at
last
to
consent
to
his
desire
,
upon
this
Condition
,
that
he
should
remain
at
home
and
give
us
another
Person
to
guide
us
in
our
way
;
for
he
was
of
such
a
crooked
disposition
that
it
was
impossible
to
perform
the
Journey
peaceably
with
him
,
which
accordingly
he
did
.
When
we
had
thus
satisfied
him
,
he
became
of
a
good
humour
and
led
us
to
his
Dwelling
,
where
his
Wife
and
Children
came
to
see
us
,
and
prepared
for
us
a
Supper
,
according
to
the
Mode
of
the
Arabians
;
his
Boys
brought
us
some
Wild-Fowl
,
and
presented
me
with
a
young
Fawn
alive
,
which
I
carried
with
me
to
Cairo
.
Thus
we
spent
that
night
very
pleasantly
.
The
next
day
we
caused
him
to
repeat
the
Fatha
the
second
time
.
He
gave
us
a
Moor
to
conduct
us
,
of
a
very
good
humour
.
We
went
with
him
on
our
way
,
and
arrived
at
Beisa
the
22th
of
October
,
from
whence
we
had
been
absent
22
days
.
I
passed
immediately
over
to
the
other
side
of
Nilus
to
Benesuef
,
and
lodg'd
under
a
Tent
,
with
a
Turk
my
very
good
Friend
,
on
the
side
of
Nilus
,
till
the
26th
of
October
.
I
went
aboard
then
to
return
to
Cairo
,
where
I
landed
the
next
day
,
having
spent
31
days
in
my
Travels
from
thence
.
I
never
undertook
any
Journey
,
or
Voyage
,
that
was
so
full
of
accidents
,
and
crosses
,
as
this
.
The
conveniency
of
a
Guide
caused
me
to
undertake
it
.
He
was
a
young
Abyssin
,
of
my
Age
,
named
Paul
,
a
comly
Person
,
wise
and
devout
in
appearance
.
I
had
a
little
before
got
acquaintance
with
him
;
and
because
he
understood
by
my
discourse
,
that
I
had
a
great
desire
to
visit
the
Monastery
of
S.
Anthony
,
where
he
said
he
had
been
before
,
and
that
I
expected
but
a
Guide
,
because
the
ways
were
difficult
for
a
Franc
who
had
never
been
there
,
chiefly
because
of
the
Arabians
,
a
brutish
and
fantastick
People
,
he
offered
his
service
to
accompany
me
thither
.
And
the
rather
I
accepted
his
offer
;
because
I
have
always
had
a
particular
respect
for
the
honest
Men
of
his
Country
.
We
resolved
therefore
upon
all
the
Circumstances
of
our
Journey
,
and
left
Cairo
the
day
mentioned
before
.
But
the
familiarity
ordinary
amongst
fellow
Travellers
discovered
to
me
his
disposition
and
temper
,
more
than
I
could
before
;
for
all
his
visits
at
Cairo
were
studied
and
crafty
.
I
found
therefore
that
he
was
a
dissembler
,
and
without
judgment
,
too
hasty
;
I
resolved
therefore
to
shake
him
off
,
and
to
seek
another
,
to
prevent
the
mischiefs
that
his
indiscretion
might
procure
tome
.
I
met
at
Benesuef
,
very
happily
,
a
Coptie
born
at
Busch
,
by
Profession
a
Mebascier
,
or
Arithmetician
,
who
had
travell'd
all
about
the
upper
Egypt
.
I
found
him
fit
for
my
turn
,
I
ask'd
him
to
be
my
Guide
in
this
Voyage
;
he
accepted
of
the
offer
,
and
I
paid
him
beforehand
.
When
the
Abyssin
understood
it
,
he
was
highly
offended
;
so
that
he
endeavour'd
afterwards
to
be
reveng'd
,
by
causing
a
disturbance
amongst
us
,
which
anger'd
the
Company
against
him
.
The
first
night
after
our
departure
from
Benesuef
,
when
we
lay
in
the
Wilderness
,
he
commanded
my
Servant
,
contrary
to
my
orders
,
to
give
no
Coffee
to
the
Arabians
,
as
if
a
Dish
of
Coffee
,
given
to
these
Wretches
,
would
have
impoverish'd
me
.
They
plotted
to
cut
his
Throat
,
and
doubtless
he
had
there
ended
his
days
,
had
I
not
perceived
it
betimes
and
satisfied
them
;
for
as
they
are
extreme
brutish
when
they
are
anger'd
,
they
are
very
quiet
when
they
are
flatter'd
and
kindly
us'd
.
The
Arabians
caus'd
me
,
against
their
wills
,
to
suffer
another
inconveniency
.
They
took
no
care
when
they
greas'd
the
Leathern
Bottles
of
Water
,
that
the
Grease
was
mouldy
,
it
infected
therefore
the
Water
so
much
which
we
were
to
drink
,
that
I
could
not
possibly
taste
of
it
:
let
any
Man
think
if
this
was
not
a
sufficient
mortification
,
seeing
our
Journey
,
or
Voyage
,
lasted
five
days
.
As
this
was
the
first
time
that
I
rid
upon
a
Camel
,
I
could
hardly
endure
the
shakings
,
which
the
manner
of
walking
of
this
fantastick
Beast
caused
me
to
suffer
.
I
confess
,
when
I
saw
my self
upon
this
Colossus
,
without
any
stay
,
lifted
up
in
the
Air
,
seated
upon
an
ugly
Beast
;
my
Feet
in
two
Ropes
instead
of
Stirrups
,
holding
in
my
hand
a
Cord
made
with
the
Strings
of
a
Palm-tree
,
which
cut
my
hands
,
it
seemed
to
me
very
strange
:
I
resolved
nevertheless
to
overcome
all
these
difficulties
;
and
instead
of
vexing
my self
,
I
made
a
sport
of
that
which
would
have
troubled
other
Persons
.
When
I
think
upon
the
solemn
reception
of
the
Monks
,
when
I
first
came
into
the
Monastery
,
I
cannot
but
be
yet
displeas'd
at
my
Abyssin
.
This
Fool
desired
me
to
let
him
go
before
the
Caravan
,
to
tell
the
Monks
of
my
coming
,
and
to
cause
a
Chamber
to
be
prepared
for
me
;
but
by
the
respects
they
paid
me
,
I
understood
that
he
had
too
much
exaggerated
my
quality
,
thinking
to
do
me
a
pleasure
.
I
indeavoured
to
undeceive
them
,
and
caused
all
their
Ceremonies
to
cease
,
as
soon
as
I
perceived
that
they
took
me
for
a
greater
Person
than
really
I
was
.
I
have
already
set
down
at
large
how
the
Arabïans
frighted
me
in
the
Monastery
;
but
they
were
not
the
only
Persons
that
troubled
me
.
The
Monks
,
the
Vicars
,
the
Copties
,
and
the
Abyssins
vex'd
me
one
after
another
,
as
if
they
had
all
agreed
to
try
my
patience
.
The
avaricious
Monks
,
not
contented
with
what
I
had
given
them
,
before
my
departure
caused
their
Vicar
to
tell
me
,
that
they
expected
that
a
Franc
of
my
reputation
would
have
left
them
at
least
thirty
golden
Ducats
of
Venice
.
When
I
told
them
of
the
great
charges
I
had
been
at
in
this
Voyage
,
besides
the
expences
that
I
was
yet
to
be
at
in
my
return
;
that
I
had
received
but
little
satisfaction
from
them
;
that
I
wonder'd
at
their
boldness
,
to
tax
a
Stranger
of
my
quality
,
that
came
from
far
to
see
their
miserable
Monastery
,
and
their
poverty
.
They
were
angry
at
this
answer
,
and
treated
me
afterwards
with
contempt
.
The
Vicar
was
afraid
to
want
Bread
in
his
Monastery
;
therefore
he
resolved
to
quit
it
,
and
to
seek
another
where
he
might
be
better
treated
:
And
because
he
had
no
money
to
hire
a
Camel
to
carry
him
through
a
tedious
and
troublesome
way
,
he
intreated
me
to
give
him
some
,
which
I
did
very
generously
,
though
I
had
cause
to
be
offended
with
him
.
But
he
put
this
money
in
his
Purse
,
without
dreaming
of
hiring
a
Camel
,
believing
that
my
men
would
suffer
him
to
ride
sometimes
upon
their
Camels
:
But
in
the
way
he
found
himself
deceived
;
when
he
was
weary
,
and
his
feet
cut
with
the
sharp
stones
,
he
murmured
at
me
;
I
told
him
of
his
covetousness
,
unworthy
of
a
man
of
his
Profession
,
of
his
little
love
for
his
Flock
,
whom
he
left
in
the
time
when
they
needed
most
his
Fatherly
care
,
but
he
received
these
reproofs
very
ill
;
so
that
from
thence
it
may
easily
be
imagin'd
,
how
we
travell'd
together
.
The
Abyssin
and
the
Coptie
were
at
a
continual
variance
,
because
one
thought
himself
more
useful
to
me
than
the
other
;
so
that
at
every
foot
,
I
was
oblig'd
to
make
peace
between
them
.
The
night
before
the
Arabians
visited
me
,
I
was
oblig'd
to
cause
all
my
Cloaths
to
be
carried
into
the
Tower
of
the
Monastery
,
into
a
secure
place
.
In
that
hurley-burley
I
lost
some
,
valued
at
five
or
six
Piasters
;
I
cannot
tell
whose
fault
it
was
,
the
Abyssin
cast
the
fault
upon
the
Coptie
,
to
discredit
him
with
me
:
However
,
as
soon
as
we
were
come
to
Beiha
,
the
Coptie
vanish'd
away
suddenly
,
without
bidding
us
farewell
.
This
caused
me
to
suspect
that
the
Abyssin
had
not
accused
him
wrongfully
.
To
all
these
displeasures
we
must
add
the
fear
of
Thieves
in
the
way
;
for
at
every
step
,
we
look'd
on
the
ground
to
see
whether
there
were
any
footsteps
in
the
Sand
;
when
we
saw
some
that
were
fresh
,
we
were
then
grievously
afraid
;
but
our
apprehensions
increased
,
when
we
saw
the
footsteps
turned
our
way
,
for
we
imagin'd
that
we
should
meet
them
;
fear
alone
made
us
take
Beasts
at
a
distance
for
Men
,
and
Bushes
for
Robbers
that
waited
for
us
.
At
last
we
were
in
sight
of
Beiha
,
we
imagin'd
then
that
all
our
fears
were
over
;
but
the
Camels
knowing
the
Fields
where
they
were
wont
to
feed
,
began
to
leap
for
joy
,
because
they
were
return'd
to
their
ordinary
Pastures
;
so
that
the
Saddle
of
that
upon
which
I
rid
being
not
well
girded
,
nor
the
Bridle
sufficient
to
stop
the
Beast
,
it
jolted
,
and
cast
me
up
into
the
Air
several
times
:
at
every
moment
I
thought
I
should
tumble
down
,
and
break
my
Neck
,
which
happen'd
not
,
through
the
care
of
the
Arabian
that
stopt
the
Camel
.
This
Relation
is
sufficient
to
make
it
appear
,
that
if
there
is
some
pleasure
in
travelling
,
and
seeing
Forreign
Curiosities
,
one
buys
them
very
dear
,
with
the
hazard
of
many
dangers
and
crosses
,
chiefly
in
Egypt
,
where
cruelty
and
barbarism
seem
to
dwell
.
I
shall
add
some
other
Curiosities
which
I
have
seen
in
the
Desarts
.
We
left
at
our
left
hand
when
we
came
from
the
Monasteries
,
the
ruines
of
a
very
ancient
Town
,
scituate
on
the
top
of
the
barren
Mountain
,
called
,
Gebel
il
cheleil
.
This
Town
is
in
the
mid-way
between
Beiha
and
the
Monastery
,
in
that
place
where
the
Mountain
separates
it self
,
and
by
which
one
passeth
in
coming
or
going
from
Beiha
,
in
the
way
of
the
Caravan
.
The
Arabians
were
ignorant
of
the
name
,
and
we
had
no
time
to
stay
there
,
having
taken
notice
upon
the
Sand
,
of
fresh
footsteps
of
Horse-men
that
had
passed
that
way
,
which
caused
us
to
conceive
some
danger
,
if
we
continued
there
any
time
.
I
found
there
a
Plant
,
which
the
Arabians
call
Barnub
:
It
hath
a
little
full
Stalk
,
as
a
Moucheron
,
and
at
the
top
a
little
Butron
,
about
the
bigness
of
a
Nut
,
which
is
full
of
Powder
,
which
the
Dyers
use
in
dying
.
Its
leaves
are
as
slender
as
the
leaves
of
Poppy
;
I
gathered
three
or
four
of
these
Plants
,
but
I
could
not
keep
them
long
,
because
of
their
tenderness
.
I
saw
also
an
Herb
which
is
called
by
the
Arabians
Rabl
,
that
smells
as
Mint
,
my
Arabians
fed
upon
it
.
I
saw
there
a
great
deal
of
Alcali
,
called
in
Arab.
Kilu
,
which
hath
the
virtue
to
take
away
from
Cloaths
all
manner
of
spots
.
Upon
the
Mount
Colzim
,
there
is
a
Wood
that
grows
,
called
Oud
il
akrab
,
or
Scorpions
Wood
,
the
Monks
of
S.
Anthony
reduced
it
to
powder
,
which
they
judge
to
be
a
good
remedy
against
the
biting
of
venomous
Creatures
,
as
well
as
to
cure
weak
eyes
,
and
eyes
inflamed
:
They
gave
me
half
a
pound
in
Canes
;
I
have
sent
it
to
Paris
with
the
other
Curiosities
.
In
this
Desart
is
a
great
deal
of
Coloquinte
,
and
under
the
Sand
much
white
salt
very
good
,
which
my
Arabians
used
to
season
their
Fatir
,
and
their
Mafruca
.
Fatir
are
great
Cakes
,
as
thick
as
finger
,
and
as
large
as
a
French
Hat
,
baked
in
the
Coals
.
Mafruca
is
made
of
the
Fatir
,
by
breaking
it
in
pieces
,
when
it
is
yet
hot
,
and
taken
from
the
fire
;
and
by
pouring
upon
it
Oyl-Olive
,
and
kneading
it
with
the
hand
in
a
wooden
dish
,
as
if
it
were
Paste
.
My
Arabians
imagin'd
to
do
me
a
great
pleasure
to
offer
me
some
to
eat
,
for
this
is
highly
esteem'd
amongst
them
;
but
though
I
had
a
good
Stomach
,
I
had
not
the
courage
to
taste
of
it
,
for
I
had
good
cause
to
loath
it
.
I
return
now
to
speak
of
the
things
that
happen'd
at
Cairo
,
where
I
landed
the
30th
of
October
.
That
day
they
began
the
Zine
,
or
Festival
of
publick
joy
,
because
the
Grand
Seignior
had
taken
Caminiez
from
the
Poles
.
This
Festival
lasted
from
Sunday
till
Thursday
in
the
Afternoon
.
It
is
the
custom
at
Cairo
,
that
in
such
like
Festivals
every
one
adorns
the
out-side
of
his
House
or
Shop
with
Carpets
and
Pavillions
,
lighting
about
them
all
night
many
Lamps
tyed
to
wooden
Engines
,
some
made
in
an
Hexagone
figure
,
others
in
an
Octogone
;
some
as
Stars
,
others
in
another
manner
.
These
Engines
are
suspended
with
Ropes
tyed
cross
the
Streets
,
which
are
beautiful
to
look
upon
.
The
Streets
in
all
other
times
are
shut
in
the
night
,
but
then
are
open
,
and
the
Christians
,
during
this
Festival
,
may
walk
about
more
freely
than
at
other
times
at
mid-day
,
because
one
cannot
distinguish
in
that
obscure
light
of
what
colour
is
the
Turbant
that
they
wear
,
nor
discover
whether
it
be
straked
,
or
all
white
.
Besides
these
Lamps
and
Carpets
,
the
Beys
hang
up
in
a
good
order
before
their
Palaces
upon
the
Walls
;
their
most
beautiful
Armour
,
as
Head-pieces
,
Breast-plates
,
Coats
of
Male
,
Musquets
,
Hangers
,
Targets
,
and
other
such
Instruments
of
War
.
The
French
Consuls
,
who
never
come
short
of
them
,
cause
beautiful
Carpets
to
be
hung
in
all
the
Streets
of
their
dwellings
,
and
Pavillions
over
the
Streets
,
from
one
end
to
another
,
to
keep
off
the
heat
of
the
Sun
.
Monsieur
de
Tyger
,
Consul
of
the
French
Nation
,
caused
a
kind
of
a
resting
place
to
be
erected
,
beautifying
it
with
Carpets
and
Cushions
,
to
receive
the
Persons
of
Quality
;
he
put
round
about
the
Pictures
of
the
King
,
of
the
Queen
,
of
the
Dolphin
,
and
other
French
Lords
,
in
small
ingravery
,
with
Tapers
before
them
,
to
cause
the
Turks
to
admire
the
wit
and
invention
of
the
French
,
who
can
make
Pictures
much
like
the
Originals
.
But
the
Turks
were
surprized
to
see
their
Beards
shaven
off
;
they
ask'd
whether
they
were
yet
Children
.
These
Festivals
give
much
diversion
to
the
people
,
but
they
are
very
chargeable
to
those
that
will
observe
them
,
chiefly
to
the
Consuls
;
for
besides
the
Tents
and
Carpets
,
and
other
Ornaments
that
they
must
hire
,
they
are
wont
to
give
Coffee
and
Tobacco
to
all
that
come
to
see
them
;
and
if
they
be
persons
of
Quality
,
they
must
have
Sweet-meats
:
so
that
if
a
Consul
will
come
off
with
Honour
,
it
will
cost
him
three
or
four
hundred
Crowns
.
The
people
run
about
the
Streets
,
from
morning
till
three
hours
after
mid-night
,
all
the
time
of
the
Festival
.
On
the
first
of
November
I
went
to
see
the
Castle
of
Cairo
with
a
Chiaoux
,
a
very
good
friend
of
mine
.
The
first
thing
that
we
saw
was
the
Royal
Hall
,
where
the
Pacha
keeps
the
Divan
.
He
shewed
me
in
the
middle
of
this
Hall
,
a
great
Cord
tyed
double
to
one
of
the
Beams
of
the
Roof
,
where
,
according
to
the
custom
of
the
Country
,
the
Casciefs
that
have
not
sufficient
to
pay
the
Taxes
of
their
Province
,
at
the
end
of
the
year
are
lifted
up
in
the
air
,
with
their
hands
behind
,
tyed
to
their
backs
:
besides
,
they
are
whipt
upon
their
naked
backs
with
a
Whip
of
Cords
,
whereunto
are
tyed
some
Leaden
Bullets
.
We
went
up
next
to
the
top
of
the
Ovens
where
they
bake
Bread
,
from
whence
the
place
called
Kara
,
or
the
place
of
exercise
,
is
discoverable
.
There
the
Pacha's
men
sport
themselves
with
Bows
and
Arrows
,
and
by
running
on
Horse-back
,
aiming
at
a
mark
fixed
at
the
top
of
a
very
high
Tree
.
We
went
to
see
next
the
Chambers
where
they
make
the
Gun-powder
,
which
are
two
great
Parlours
or
Rooms
on
the
ground
,
over
against
the
Royal
Hall
of
the
Divan
,
with
very
strong
walls
,
and
vaulted
over
head
.
In
each
are
twelve
Mortars
of
Pewter
placed
round
,
about
a
Cubit
high
,
with
their
Pestels
of
Iron
,
which
receive
their
motion
,
to
pound
the
matter
in
the
Mortars
to
powder
,
from
a
long
Pole
that
answers
to
a
Beam
that
stands
in
the
middle
of
the
Chamber
,
which
a
Horse
turns
round
.
There
are
near
several
other
Chambers
,
where
are
many
little
Mortars
,
in
which
they
refine
the
Gun-powder
.
On
the
19th
of
November
I
was
present
at
a
Marriage
of
two
Copties
;
the
Ceremonies
were
performed
in
this
manner
.
After
the
Oration
or
Prayer
of
mid-night
,
or
as
if
we
should
say
,
after
Morning-prayer
,
the
Friends
and
Parents
led
first
the
Bridegroom
,
and
next
the
Bride
,
from
their
Houses
to
the
Church
,
with
several
lighted
Tapers
before
them
,
and
singing
through
the
Streets
Hymns
in
the
Copties
Language
,
and
striking
with
little
wooden
Hammers
against
some
sticks
of
Ebony
wood
,
which
is
their
Musick
.
When
they
were
come
to
the
Church
,
they
led
the
Bridegroom
into
the
inner
Chancel
,
where
usually
the
Prayers
are
said
,
and
brought
the
Bride
to
the
place
of
the
Women
:
Then
the
Priests
and
the
People
began
in
the
Chancel
their
Prayers
mingled
with
Hymns
,
which
lasted
very
long
:
At
the
end
,
he
that
performed
the
Ceremony
of
the
Marriage
,
went
to
the
Bridegroom
and
read
three
or
four
Prayers
,
making
over
him
the
Sign
of
the
Cross
,
before
,
and
at
the
end
of
every
Prayer
.
He
caused
him
afterwards
to
sit
on
the
ground
,
having
his
face
turned
towards
the
Heikel
,
holding
behind
him
upon
his
Head
,
in
a
standing
posture
,
a
Silver
Cross
,
and
continuing
in
Prayer
.
Whiles
this
was
doing
in
the
Chancel
,
the
Beadle
caused
the
Bride
,
with
one
of
her
Kindred
,
to
sit
down
upon
a
Bench
that
he
had
there
put
out
of
the
door
of
the
uttermost
Chancel
.
As
soon
as
the
Priests
had
ended
in
the
innermost
Chancel
,
the
prayers
of
the
Knot
,
as
they
name
them
.
He
that
performed
the
Ceremony
,
cloathed
the
Bridegroom
with
a
Surplice
,
and
tyed
him
about
the
middle
with
a
Girdle
,
putting
upon
his
head
a
white
Cloth
.
In
this
manner
he
led
him
to
the
Bride
,
causing
him
to
sit
by
her
:
He
then
covered
them
both
with
this
white
Cloth
,
and
made
them
put
their
heads
together
.
Then
he
anointed
the
Bridegroom
with
Oyl-Olive
in
the
Forehead
,
and
above
the
Fist
,
and
the
Bride
in
the
same
manner
:
Afterwards
he
caused
them
to
give
one
another
their
hands
,
reading
aloud
the
Exhortation
that
contains
the
Duties
which
they
were
to
perform
to
one
another
.
So
with
a
long
train
of
Prayers
,
interrupted
with
several
Ceremonies
,
this
Solemnity
of
Marriage
ended
,
which
they
call
the
Coronation
of
the
Married
Couple
.
Afterwards
they
read
Morning-prayer
,
or
as
we
call
them
,
the
Laudes
.
They
sung
next
Mass
,
where
the
Bridegroom
and
the
Bride
received
the
Communion
;
which
being
ended
,
they
all
returned
to
their
several
homes
.
The
beginning
of
the
Year
1673.
THE
night
of
the
16th
of
January
,
1673.
the
Copties
celebrate
the
Festival
of
the
Epiphany
.
I
was
then
at
Cairo
in
the
Church
of
Mary
Moncure
,
to
see
how
they
dip
themselves
in
Water
in
remembrance
of
the
Baptism
of
our
Lord
and
Saviour
,
which
was
performed
that
night
according
to
the
Traditions
of
the
Church
.
I
took
notice
of
these
Particulars
.
They
said
the
Prayers
of
Midnight
,
where
the
Font
stands
,
and
where
they
dipped
themselves
,
which
they
call
il
Magtas
.
This
Pond
,
or
Bason
:
of
Water
is
in
a
Chamber
near
the
Church
,
about
three
Perches
square
,
as
deep
as
a
Man
is
high
.
As
soon
as
Prayers
were
ended
,
the
Patriarch
went
to
the
Kolomie
,
or
Vestry
,
to
put
on
his
Pontifical
Attire
;
from
thence
he
return'd
to
the
Water
,
with
a
Deacon
and
a
Priest
before
him
.
The
Deacon
had
on
him
a
Cape
,
bearing
in
his
hand
an
Iron
Cross
,
as
long
as
a
Pastoral
Staff
.
The
Priest
was
Cloathed
with
a
Surplice
,
that
he
might
be
useful
to
the
Patriarch
in
saying
of
Mass
;
that
is
,
that
he
might
be
his
assistant
,
and
Master
of
the
Ceremonies
.
When
he
was
come
to
the
Water
,
he
began
to
bless
it
,
by
reading
over
it
several
Lessons
taken
out
of
the
Prophets
and
the
Psalms
,
and
out
of
the
New
Testament
;
sometimes
in
the
Copties
Language
,
sometimes
in
Arabick
.
The
Patriarch
perfum'd
it
also
,
and
stirr'd
it
cross-wise
with
the
Pastoral
Staff
of
Iron
,
which
the
other
Priests
did
also
,
every
one
in
his
turn
.
And
whilst
they
were
blessing
this
Water
,
which
lasted
near
two
hours
,
there
was
a
Candlestick
of
Iron
standing
within
,
about
the
length
of
a
Man
,
with
three
Branches
,
upon
which
there
were
three
Tapers
burning
all
the
time
of
this
Ceremony
.
As
soon
as
this
blessing
was
ended
,
the
Pond
,
or
Bason
,
was
all
uncovered
,
that
the
People
might
go
in
and
dip
themselves
.
Then
there
was
heard
a
strange
confusion
and
noise
,
so
great
that
I
wonder'd
;
for
every
one
endeavoured
to
be
one
of
the
three
first
,
whom
the
Patriarch
dips
in
the
Water
.
They
that
could
not
obtain
this
honour
,
dipp'd
themselves
,
skipping
and
playing
,
all
naked
,
in
the
Water
,
without
having
any
thing
to
cover
their
nakedness
,
and
privy
Members
;
and
all
this
in
the
presence
of
their
Patriarch
,
and
many
Priests
that
were
there
.
As
soon
as
the
Men
had
ended
their
washing
,
and
were
gone
to
the
Chancel
;
the
Women
,
and
the
Maids
drew
near
,
and
followed
the
Mens
Example
,
skipping
all
naked
in
the
Water
,
and
sportting
one
with
the
other
.
It
is
true
that
such
as
did
thus
dip
themselves
were
of
the
poorer
sort
,
and
that
as
many
as
were
of
the
wealthier
,
and
better
sort
,
wash'd
their
faces
and
hands
.
When
the
Women
had
ended
their
bathing
,
they
went
away
to
their
own
places
to
hear
Mass
,
which
was
already
begun
.
Thus
this
Ceremony
was
performed
,
which
I
saw
from
the
beginning
to
the
end
.
The
26th
of
this
Month
Monsieur
de
Tyger
,
who
had
been
,
till
then
,
Consul
of
the
French
Nation
,
left
Cairo
.
He
is
a
very
able
Man
,
and
understands
his
duty
very
well
;
but
the
Merchants
of
France
made
their
complaints
against
him
at
Court
,
and
caus'd
him
to
be
dismiss'd
.
Monsieur
de
Bonnecorse
,
the
Cousul
of
Seyda
,
was
named
in
his
place
.
The
departure
of
the
Mahmel
towards
Mecha
.
SAturday
,
the
28th
of
this
Month
,
the
Pacha
sent
away
,
in
great
pomp
,
from
Cairo
,
the
Mahmel
,
or
Burying-Cloath
,
which
the
Kings
of
Egypt
,
and
the
Pacha's
are
wont
to
send
every
Year
to
Mecha
,
to
cover
Mahomets
Tomb
;
which
was
performed
in
this
manner
.
First
two
Kisve
,
or
Burying-Cloaths
,
of
black
Damask
,
richly
wrought
with
great
Arabick
Letters
,
expressing
some
Sentences
of
the
Alcoran
,
were
carried
before
.
These
Letters
were
very
great
,
Embroidered
with
Gold
,
and
artificially
Interwoven
.
These
Burying-Cloaths
were
each
carried
upon
a
Bier
,
made
almost
in
die
same
fashion
as
those
that
are
in
Europe
,
and
they
were
about
three
Perches
long
.
An
infinite
number
of
Schiechs
,
or
Ecclesiasticks
,
followed
after
in
a
confusion
,
causing
several
Banners
to
be
carried
before
them
,
which
had
been
taken
out
of
the
Mosques
of
Cairo
:
Some
were
on
foot
,
others
riding
upon
Asses
,
and
all
cloathed
in
a
very
strange
manner
,
with
Garbs
made
up
with
divers
pieces
of
many
colours
patched
together
.
They
caused
themselves
to
be
wondered
at
by
their
howling
and
grimaces
,
for
they
wagg'd
their
Heads
,
their
Eyes
,
and
their
Mouths
,
in
a
thousand
ways
;
others
pronounced
the
word
Hu
,
which
is
one
of
the
Attributes
and
Names
of
God
,
with
all
the
strength
of
their
body
;
and
there
was
none
without
Armour
,
a
Club
,
or
a
Halberd
,
or
a
wooden
Sword
,
or
some
other
rusty
Weapon
.
After
this
Crowd
came
the
Cloth
with
which
they
cover
Mahomets
Tomb
,
which
they
call
in
Arabick
,
il
Mahmel
.
It
was
carried
upon
a
Camel
painted
yellow
,
with
an
Herb
called
Henne
,
and
very
richly
harnassed
and
trapped
with
gold
Embroidery
,
with
feathers
upon
the
Head
,
and
about
the
Neck
and
Legs
little
Bells
.
This
Mahmel
was
made
like
a
Bed
,
but
the
kind
of
Stuff
,
and
the
colour
,
was
not
to
be
distinguish'd
,
because
it
was
all
covered
with
Flowers
,
and
Arabick
Characters
,
very
long
,
all
Embroidered
with
Gold
and
Interwoven
very
artificially
.
At
the
four
corners
were
four
great
Bosses
,
covered
over
with
a
rich
Stuff
;
and
from
the
middle
of
these
Bosses
,
they
rose
up
in
Pyramides
.
The
Camel
that
carried
this
Engine
,
was
followed
by
five
others
:
Upon
the
first
was
mounted
an
Arabian
,
sounding
a
Trumpet
;
upon
the
second
a
Moor
that
plaid
upon
two
Cymbals
;
and
upon
the
three
others
,
three
young
Boys
;
after
these
went
five
and
twenty
Metferracas
with
their
Swords
by
their
sides
,
and
the
Turban
of
the
Chiaoux
upon
their
heads
;
and
after
them
seven
other
Persons
cloathed
with
Coftans
:
A
Troop
of
Scherifs
,
or
Noble
Men
of
Mecha
,
followed
next
,
on
horseback
;
after
them
a
Man
who
carried
upon
his
head
a
little
Mortuary
,
or
Burying-Cloath
,
Embroidered
,
square
,
stretched
upon
Staves
;
next
went
four
others
that
carried
every
one
upon
their
shoulders
a
Cloath
of
the
same
fashion
.
They
told
me
,
that
they
hanged
them
up
where
they
celebrate
the
memory
of
Abrahams
Sacrifice
.
Eight
and
twenty
Janissaries
went
next
,
two
and
two
,
with
their
Caps
upon
their
heads
.
They
went
immediately
before
the
Emir
hag
,
or
the
Bey
that
commands
this
Caravan
.
This
Bey
was
cloathed
with
a
Coftan
,
and
had
upon
his
head
a
Turban
,
proper
to
the
Beys
,
which
is
called
in
Arabick
,
Emame
Bersciani
,
which
is
like
a
Flower-pot
turn'd
up-side
down
.
His
Domesticks
,
who
were
twelve
Archers
well
cloathed
,
and
a
Troop
of
Musqueteers
on
Horses
,
waited
upon
him
;
after
followed
the
Drummers
,
the
Trumpeters
,
the
Pipers
,
either
on
Horseback
,
or
riding
upon
Camels
;
and
at
last
there
was
an
Engine
,
drawn
by
the
strength
of
Men
,
upon
which
was
representented
the
Porch
of
the
Temple
of
Mecha
,
in
green
Sattin
Embroidered
with
Gold
:
They
call
it
Arab.
Burca
.
The
Money
needful
to
make
all
these
Cloaths
,
is
taken
out
of
the
Revenues
of
the
Lands
which
the
ancient
Kings
of
Egypt
have
appointed
for
that
purpose
,
which
hath
been
confirmed
by
the
Ottoman
Emperours
.
For
that
purpose
they
have
appointed
a
Superintendant
,
whom
they
call
in
Arabick
Nadir
il
Kisve
,
or
the
Superintendant
of
the
Habit
,
who
hath
the
care
to
cause
these
Lands
to
be
Manur'd
,
and
to
gather
the
Revenues
,
and
to
employ
them
in
the
uses
for
which
they
were
appointed
.
That
which
was
worthy
of
notice
in
this
Pomp
,
was
the
blind
Devotion
of
these
Wretches
for
the
things
which
are
to
be
used
by
their
Prophet
,
or
employed
in
their
Religion
.
All
the
People
,
notwithstanding
the
extraordinary
crowd
in
all
the
Streets
where
these
Cloaths
were
to
pass
,
pressed
forward
with
incredible
earnestness
,
that
they
might
cause
their
Handkerchiefs
,
or
their
Turbans
,
to
touch
these
Cloaths
that
were
designed
for
the
Tomb
of
their
Prophet
,
which
they
kiss'd
afterwards
,
and
rubb'd
them
upon
their
Eyes
with
much
devotion
.
The
Departure
of
the
Caravan
of
the
Pilgrims
for
Mecha
.
EIght
days
after
the
Mahmel
of
the
false
Prophet
Mahomet
was
gone
,
the
Bey
went
away
also
,
with
his
Caravan
,
in
this
manner
and
order
.
First
six
little
Pieces
of
Artillery
were
drawn
by
Horses
,
with
their
Ammunition
that
followed
next
;
after
followed
nine
and
forty
Camels
,
loaden
with
Provisions
for
the
Bey
,
for
his
Kitchin
;
after
them
nine
and
fifty
others
that
were
not
loaden
,
and
fourteen
others
that
carried
Water
;
after
them
two
and
twenty
other
Camels
,
well
harnessed
,
but
not
loaden
;
eight
and
twenty
Arabians
march'd
after
them
,
every
one
of
them
had
,
upon
his
shoulder
,
a
Torch
,
or
Meschal
,
to
give
light
in
the
Night
,
before
the
Caravan
:
nine
and
forty
Camels
without
burden
,
and
two
and
twenty
others
loaden
with
two
Cradles
a-piece
,
to
carry
the
sick
and
weak
,
and
the
poor
,
went
after
:
next
to
them
went
nineteen
Camels
loaden
with
Water-pouches
;
and
before
and
after
them
there
was
a
Troop
of
Moors
that
beat
upon
the
Drum
:
after
them
followed
twenty
beautiful
Camels
,
without
burden
;
they
belong's
to
a
Lord
.
A
Troop
of
Musitians
,
and
eighteen
Camels
without
burdens
,
the
foremost
bearing
some
Musitians
,
went
next
.
Eight
of
the
Field
Tapers
,
called
in
Arabick
,
Meschal
,
were
carried
after
;
and
them
the
train
of
a
Ciurbachi
,
well
horsed
,
succeeded
:
after
went
two
and
two
Musitians
,
mounted
upon
Camels
that
went
before
another
Camel
with
Trappings
richly
Embroidered
;
next
a
Troop
of
Drummers
rode
by
upon
Camels
;
and
after
them
three
Camels
,
bearing
in
their
Saddles
many
Colours
flying
,
that
yielded
a
beautiful
sight
;
Twelve
Moors
carried
next
twelve
Torches
;
next
went
twelve
Camels
loaden
with
Water-pouches
;
some
Ciurbachies
rode
next
on
horseback
,
followed
by
two
Camels
that
carried
two
Musitians
,
and
six
and
twenty
others
loaden
with
Banners
,
as
the
former
;
between
these
,
and
two
others
that
were
loaden
with
Water
,
went
two
Men
that
carried
Tapers
;
two
Camels
loaden
followed
after
,
with
the
Train
of
a
Lord
on
horseback
,
two
Drums
,
and
nine
Camels
;
and
after
them
some
Ciurbachies
,
with
their
Servants
,
on
horseback
;
after
went
the
seven
orders
of
the
Militia
,
and
the
Alai
Chiaoux
,
who
are
to
be
distinguished
by
their
black
Rod
which
they
bear
in
their
hands
,
which
hath
two
Branches
hooked
,
upon
which
hang
two
Silver
Chains
,
furnish'd
with
little
Bell
,
tied
at
the
middle
of
the
Rod
:
next
followed
the
Servants
,
and
Attendants
of
a
Lord
,
all
riding
on
Horses
.
The
Imam
,
or
Chaplain
,
of
the
Emir-hag
,
cloathed
in
white
Searge
,
followed
them
upon
a
Camel
;
after
him
went
a
Troop
of
young
Men
,
mounted
upon
Camels
;
next
went
the
Attendants
of
a
Lord
,
and
a
Troop
of
Janissaries
on
foot
,
with
their
Ceremonial
Caps
on
their
heads
;
next
followed
their
Serdar
,
or
Colonel
,
with
forty
Chiaoux
,
two
and
two
on
horseback
,
with
their
Swords
by
their
sides
:
twelve
Sangiac-Beys
went
after
,
two
and
two
,
on
Horses
,
with
their
Ceremonial
Turbans
on
their
heads
,
with
their
Servants
:
next
eight
Chiaoux
,
and
a
Bey
all
alone
,
and
the
Vali
,
or
Provost
Marshal
,
with
the
Methtesib
,
or
Superintendant
of
the
Provisions
,
on
Horses
:
they
had
after
them
a
thousand
Azappes
on
foot
,
walking
two
and
two
:
the
Apprentices
were
at
the
head
of
their
Troop
,
having
a
little
Musquet
on
their
shoulders
,
and
a
Cutlass
at
their
sides
:
the
young
Men
without
Beard
followed
them
;
next
the
Men
of
full
age
;
next
the
old
Men
,
all
cloathed
with
skins
of
Tygers
:
after
them
a
thousand
Janissaries
went
on
foot
,
in
the
same
order
and
at
the
last
the
Emir-hag
,
or
the
Bey
that
commanded
this
Caravan
,
closed
up
the
rear
of
thi●
Company
,
on
horseback
.
We
must
not
think
that
all
these
Persons
go
with
the
Bey
as
far
as
Mecha
:
They
accompany
him
a
little
way
out
of
Town
,
as
far
as
the
Caravan
hath
a
Rendezvous
;
none
remain
,
but
such
as
are
bound
to
go
through
with
him
.
A
Voyage
into
the
Upper
Egypt
.
ON
the
24th
of
February
,
being
Friday
,
S.
Matthias's
day
,
I
went
from
Cairo
towards
the
Vpper
Egypt
,
with
an
intention
to
visit
the
Monastery
of
the
Holy
Martyrs
at
Isne
,
and
the
other
Antiquities
that
are
about
that
City
.
Besides
Idris
my
Man
,
I
took
along
with
me
a
Moor
,
called
Hagali
,
our
near
Neighbour
,
to
accompany
me
.
We
went
aboard
of
a
Bark
that
I
had
hired
to
carry
us
to
Momfallot
,
for
five
and
twenty
Paras
.
The
Visiter
of
the
Custom-House
caused
us
to
stop
till
the
Evening
;
so
that
this
night
we
only
went
round
about
the
Isle
Roude
,
which
is
at
a
Musket-shot
over
against
Old
Cairo
.
Saturday
the
Rain
fell
betimes
,
and
lasted
till
Noon
;
the
Showers
fell
so
furiously
,
that
our
Bark
sunk
almost
to
the
bottom
:
I
wish'd
then
that
such
as
say
that
no
Rain
falls
in
Egypt
had
been
there
,
for
they
would
have
seen
the
contrary
.
This
Rain
was
succeeded
by
cold
and
tempestuous
Winds
.
The
next
night
there
was
another
Rain
fell
as
great
as
the
former
,
which
continued
till
three
hours
after
the
rising
of
the
Sun
.
As
soon
as
it
had
dissipated
the
Clouds
,
a
good
Wind
,
called
Teijab
,
or
North-west
,
began
to
blow
,
and
kept
us
company
in
all
our
Voyage
.
Monday
,
very
early
,
the
27th
of
the
Month
,
we
landed
at
Benesuef
,
a
great
Town
scituated
upon
the
West-side
of
Nilus
,
and
tow
hours
after
we
went
on
board
,
to
proceed
on
in
our
Voyage
,
leaving
at
our
right
hand
,
on
the
West
of
the
River
,
Fesohn
,
a
great
Town
,
about
three
or
four
hours
travelling
from
Benesuef
,
towards
the
South
:
At
the
East
we
saw
the
Village
Savadi
Kedami
,
and
about
Sun-set
we
went
by
Heggiar
Selame
,
a
dangerous
Bank
of
Nilus
.
At
this
place
the
Lands
of
Egypt
,
which
are
at
the
East
of
Nilus
,
begin
to
be
manured
,
for
from
Cairo
to
this
place
,
they
are
all
cover'd
with
Sand.
Tuesday
morning
,
the
28th
of
February
,
we
left
at
the
East
of
Nilus
two
Castles
ruinated
,
near
one
another
,
and
pass'd
by
the
Mountain
called
Gebel-garanat
,
scituate
on
the
same
side
,
where
the
Territory
of
Egypt
begins
again
to
be
unfruitful
and
sandy
.
A
little
before
Noon
we
saw
our selves
over
against
Serarie
,
a
Village
on
the
East
of
Nilus
,
but
within
the
Land
,
seated
at
the
foot
of
this
Mountain
.
In
this
place
our
Bark
ran
in
the
Sand
,
and
when
the
Boat-men
were
not
able
to
free
her
,
the
Janissaries
that
were
with
us
forced
all
the
other
Travellers
and
Christians
with
Cudgels
to
leap
over
into
the
water
to
help
them
.
As
soon
as
it
was
freed
,
we
proceeded
on
in
our
way
,
and
we
began
to
discover
the
Caves
of
the
Mountain
which
are
at
the
East
of
Nilus
,
and
a
little
after
the
Mount
of
Birds
,
called
in
Arabick
Gebel
Teir
,
which
is
so
equal
from
the
top
to
the
bottom
about
half
a
mile
,
that
it
looks
like
a
strait
Wall
,
built
by
hand
,
rather
than
a
Rock
made
thus
by
Nature
,
which
is
a
very
delightful
sight
to
Travellers
.
The
water
of
Nilus
washes
a
great
deal
of
it
:
On
the
top
of
this
Mountain
is
the
Monastery
of
the
Copties
,
called
Deir
il
baccur
,
and
a
little
further
several
Caves
,
and
the
ruines
if
an
Ancient
Town
.
Tuesday
night
we
were
in
sight
of
Minie
,
but
our
Vessel
ran
a-ground
once
more
in
the
Banks
of
Sand
,
so
that
the
Boat-men
could
not
free
it
before
night
,
and
there
it
stopt
till
next
day
.
Wednesday
in
the
morning
,
whiles
our
Boat-men
were
busie
in
freeing
the
Boat
,
I
went
to
see
the
City
of
Minie
,
scituate
on
the
West
of
Nilus
,
belonging
to
the
Cascieflik
of
Behnese
.
I
went
also
into
the
Mosques
without
fear
,
because
I
was
cloathed
in
a
Turkish
Habit.
When
our
Boat-men
had
freed
the
Bark
,
they
drew
her
up
to
Minie
,
for
we
sail'd
upwards
;
there
I
went
on
board
to
go
towards
Melave
.
About
an
hours
sailing
from
Minie
,
we
began
to
discover
on
the
top
of
the
Mountain
,
which
lies
at
the
East
,
the
Caves
.
This
,
in
my
judgment
,
is
the
beginning
of
the
Country
of
Thebes
:
They
are
to
be
seen
along
the
Mountain
,
as
far
as
Momfallot
;
I
counted
four
and
thirty
in
a
rank
,
but
the
Mouths
of
the
Caves
were
stopped
up
with
Earth
that
was
fallen
in
.
The
same
day
,
about
three
a
Clock
in
the
Afternoon
,
we
pass'd
by
the
Ruines
of
the
Ancient
City
Insine
,
leaving
it
at
our
left
hand
,
and
at
night
we
went
to
lie
before
Melave
.
We
sailed
away
on
Thursday
morning
,
the
second
of
March
,
and
we
saw
in
our
way
many
Caves
in
the
Mountain
,
which
is
at
the
East
.
At
Noon
we
left
the
great
Channel
of
Nilus
,
because
there
was
but
little
water
,
and
we
enter'd
into
one
of
its
Branches
,
which
makes
an
Island
,
by
meeting
again
with
the
great
Stream
.
We
pass'd
before
the
Mouth
of
the
River
of
Joseph
,
of
which
I
have
spoken
sufficiently
in
the
description
of
Fium
.
Friday
morning
,
the
third
day
of
the
month
,
we
landed
at
Momfallot
,
where
I
lodged
in
an
House
called
Ocalet
Emir
Otman
,
or
the
dwelling
of
Prince
Otman
,
which
is
in
the
Market-place
.
It
is
an
old
dwelling
much
decayed
,
and
though
there
is
another
more
beautiful
,
and
more
commodious
,
I
would
not
lodge
in
it
,
that
I
might
not
suffer
the
affronts
of
the
Jamssaries
and
Spahins
,
who
lodg'd
there
,
and
who
would
have
insulted
over
me
,
had
they
known
me
to
be
a
Franc.
Momfallot
,
the
abode
of
the
Cascief
of
the
Province
,
is
a
very
great
and
beautiful
Town
of
Egypt
,
scituate
upon
the
banks
of
Nilus
,
on
the
West-side
,
in
the
middle
Egypt
.
There
is
made
much
Linen-cloth
:
A
great
many
Christian
Copties
live
here
,
but
they
have
no
Church
.
The
name
of
this
Town
signifies
in
Arabick
the
Exile
of
Lot
,
because
a
certain
Lot
was
banish'd
thither
by
his
Brother
,
an
ancient
King
of
Egypt
,
as
the
Copties
say
.
Over
against
,
on
the
other
side
of
Nilus
,
are
the
signs
of
an
ancient
Town
,
I
could
never
understand
the
name
.
From
Cairo
to
Benesuef
there
are
two
days
journeys
by
Land
;
and
by
water
,
sometimes
more
,
sometimes
less
,
according
to
the
wind
;
from
Benesuef
to
Minie
,
are
three
days
journeys
by
Land
,
from
Minie
to
Melave
is
a
little
days
journey
,
from
Melave
to
Momfallot
is
a
little
more
than
a
days
journey
,
chiefly
when
the
Horse
is
not
good
;
and
from
Momfallot
one
may
go
and
dine
at
Siut
,
if
one
takes
the
morning
.
In
the
Province
of
Momfallot
they
reckon
one
and
fifty
Towns
,
six
and
thirty
at
the
West
side
of
Nilus
,
and
fifteen
at
the
East
;
which
agrees
not
with
the
Relation
of
James
Albert
of
Egypt
,
who
reckons
up
two
hundred
and
seventeen
.
In
this
he
is
mistaken
.
Here
are
one
and
twenty
Churches
,
or
Monasteries
;
eleven
at
the
West-side
of
Nilus
,
namely
Moharrak
,
with
that
of
the
Abyssins
,
near
by
.
The
Church
of
the
Angel
Gabriel
,
at
Buk
:
That
of
S.
Theodore
at
Timsahte
:
That
of
S.
George
at
Ballot
:
That
of
the
Arch-Angel
Raphael
at
Tetelie
:
That
of
S.
Philothea
at
Nemire
:
That
of
the
Arch-Angels
,
Gabriel
and
Raphael
,
at
Benekelb
:
That
of
S.
Mercurius
at
Gauli
:
That
of
the
holy
Virgin
at
Meessera
:
That
of
S.
John
of
Heraclea
at
Om
il
Kossur
.
There
are
twelve
at
the
East-side
of
Nilus
,
namely
,
the
Church
of
S.
Theodore
,
Martyr
,
S.
John's
Son
,
at
Bossra
:
The
Monastery
of
S.
Menna
,
sirnamed
Thoumatourgos
at
—
The
Church
of
the
holy
Virgin
at
—
and
another
at
Maabde
:
The
Church
of
Mary
Poctor
at
Gebravi
;
another
of
the
same
Saint
at
Fadda
:
That
of
the
blessed
Virgin
at
Bene
mohammed
:
That
of
S.
George
at
Bene
morr
:
and
three
that
are
at
Ibnub
il
hammam
;
namely
,
the
Monastery
of
the
blessed
Virgin
:
the
Church
of
S.
John
the
Baptist
,
and
that
of
Abufam
il
ghindi
.
The
7th
day
of
this
Month
I
went
,
about
seven
a
Clock
in
the
morning
,
for
Siut
,
where
I
arrived
about
noon
.
These
are
the
Villages
in
the
way
;
1.
Mandara
,
where
several
Ruines
remain
,
that
bespeak
it
to
have
been
a
great
Town
:
2.
Hantaca
:
3.
Gauli
,
where
are
to
be
seen
some
ancient
Ruines
,
and
an
old
Bridge
,
to
give
passage
to
the
River
Nilus
,
when
it
overflows
the
Country
:
4.
Negghe
,
where
the
Caravan
commonly
rests
that
comes
from
Dungala
,
when
it
goes
towards
Cairo
:
5.
Benehsein
,
and
a
little
further
Coum
Benehsein
,
where
is
to
be
seen
the
Tomb
of
one
called
Sciech
Iscander
:
6.
Mongabat
that
new
,
which
is
a
very
good
Town
,
at
the
West
of
Nilus
,
and
at
the
foot
of
the
Mountain
hard
by
old
Mongabat
,
but
now
ruinated
:
At
last
we
came
to
Siut
,
which
lies
South-South-East
from
Momfallot
.
When
I
was
arrived
at
Siut
,
I
took
two
Chambers
in
the
House
called
Occalet
il
hammam
,
or
the
Bathing-house
;
so
named
,
because
it
is
over
against
a
Publick
Bathe
;
and
though
it
be
but
little
,
it
is
pleasant
and
commodious
.
A
few
days
after
,
I
craved
acquaintance
with
the
Bishop
of
the
City
,
called
Amba
Joannes
;
he
is
a
very
honest
Man
,
of
a
good
life
.
He
made
me
know
a
certain
Coptie
,
named
Muallim
Athanasius
,
the
only
Man
of
all
the
upper
Egypt
that
understood
his
natural
Tongue
,
that
is
,
the
Copties
;
but
I
could
not
benefit
my self
much
by
him
,
because
he
was
deaf
,
and
about
fourscore
years
of
age
:
nevertheless
I
had
the
satisfaction
to
behold
that
Man
,
with
whom
the
Copties
Language
will
be
utterly
loft
.
Siut
,
called
in
Greek
Lycopolis
,
is
one
of
the
most
famous
Towns
of
the
Upper
Egypt
,
scituate
at
the
foot
of
a
barren
Mountain
that
stands
on
the
West-side
,
about
half
a
league
from
Nilus
.
The
Town
is
great
and
populous
,
full
of
Christian
Copties
,
who
may
be
about
five
hundred
Caraches
,
or
Masters
of
Families
that
pay
Tribute
.
They
have
there
a
Bishop
,
and
a
poor
Church
dedicated
to
the
Abbot
Der
,
whose
Body
,
with
that
of
his
Sister
Erazi
,
a
reputed
Saint
,
with
his
Brother
also
,
rests
at
Emsciul
,
which
is
a
Village
belonging
to
Ischmunein
.
In
Siut
are
wrought
the
best
Linen
Cloaths
of
all
Egyppt
.
It
is
the
chief
Town
of
the
Province
,
and
the
abode
of
a
Cascief
.
These
are
the
Churches
and
Monasteries
of
Christian
Copties
that
are
in
this
Province
.
The
Church
of
Doronke
,
dedicated
to
the
three
Children
of
Babylon
cast
into
the
Furnace
.
The
Monastery
of
the
blessed
Virgin
,
scituate
upon
a
Mountain
that
is
behind
this
Village
.
The
Church
of
Rife
,
dedicated
to
Mary
Colte
.
The
Monastery
of
the
blessed
Virgin
,
behind
this
Village
,
upon
the
same
Mountain
.
That
of
Sauvie
,
dedicated
to
Athanasius
.
The
Church
of
Doveine
,
dedicated
to
S.
John
the
Baptist
;
but
now
there
is
nothing
remaining
of
this
Church
,
but
the
Altar
in
the
open
Air.
The
Church
of
Bagur
,
dedicated
to
S.
Claudius
.
That
of
Cateia
,
dedicated
to
S.
Philothea
.
That
of
Sciothe
,
dedicated
to
S.
Moncure
;
but
it
is
now
ruinated
.
Upon
the
Mountain
that
is
near
Siut
,
on
the
West-side
,
amongst
a
great
many
Caves
cut
in
the
Rock
,
there
is
one
made
like
a
Stable
,
therefore
the
People
call
it
by
the
name
of
il
Stabl
,
or
the
Stable
:
It
is
so
large
that
a
thousand
Horse-men
may
easily
draw
up
Battel
in
it
.
I
have
not
seen
it
,
though
I
had
a
great
desire
;
for
no
body
would
venture
to
lead
me
thither
,
for
fear
of
the
Casciefs
displeasure
,
who
is
afraid
that
some
body
should
carry
away
the
Treasures
that
are
said
to
be
hid
there
.
A
Voyage
to
Tahta
.
MVnday
,
the
13th
of
this
Month
,
I
went
from
Siut
with
the
Bishop
of
the
Town
,
leaving
my
Men
till
my
return
,
for
Tahta
;
which
is
another
City
of
the
Upper
Egypt
,
about
two
little
days
Journey
from
Siut
,
towards
the
South
.
At
our
left
hand
we
left
the
Ruines
of
the
ancient
Town
,
Scioth
,
named
by
the
Copties
〈◊〉
〈◊〉
〈◊〉
〈◊〉
〈◊〉
:
next
Rife
,
a
considerable
Town
at
our
right
hand
:
next
Muscie
,
where
the
Copties
had
anciently
a
Church
,
dedicated
to
Mary
Poctor
Sciu
,
taking
its
name
from
the
City
of
Sciu
,
which
was
next
to
Abnub
,
but
now
ruinated
.
At
three
of
the
Clock
in
the
Afternoon
we
arrived
at
Doveine
,
where
we
continued
two
days
,
because
the
Bishop
of
Sciut
was
to
consecrate
there
an
Altar
.
This
Village
owes
its
beginning
to
Tuh
Bekerim
,
a
Village
near
adjoining
,
whereof
there
appears
not
now
the
least
sign
:
This
is
the
cause
.
A
Gentlewoman
of
this
place
,
called
Vdeine
,
having
built
a
Church
out
of
Tuh
Bekerim
,
to
the
honour
of
S.
John
Baptist
:
many
of
the
Inhabitants
caused
Houses
to
be
built
near
this
Church
;
so
by
degrees
,
the
number
of
People
increasing
more
and
more
,
they
left
Tuh
Bekerim
empty
,
and
the
place
where
this
Church
was
built
became
a
Village
,
which
they
called
after
the
name
of
the
Gentlewoman
,
Vdeine
,
and
now
corruptly
Doveine
.
This
Church
was
afterwards
overthrown
by
the
Doveider
,
a
Branch
of
Nilus
artificially
made
,
which
washed
the
Walls
;
now
there
remains
nothing
but
the
Altar
,
upon
which
the
Bishop
says
Mass
after
a
re-consecration
.
Over
against
Doveine
,
upon
the
side
of
the
Mountain
,
Westerly
,
there
are
to
be
seen
the
Relicks
of
two
ancient
Towns
;
one
was
named
Bablu
,
and
the
other
Billu
;
they
are
near
together
.
I
had
an
intent
to
see
them
,
but
the
Bishop
of
Siut
disswaded
me
.
Wednesday
,
the
15th
of
this
Month
,
we
went
from
Doveine
towards
Tahta
,
near
the
Ruines
of
the
ancient
Town
Abutig
,
called
by
the
Copties
〈◊〉
〈◊〉
〈◊〉
〈◊〉
〈◊〉
,
scituate
upon
the
Banks
of
Nilus
;
there
is
a
Cascief
dwells
there
.
2.
We
passed
by
Necheile
,
a
Village
upon
the
side
of
the
same
River
,
where
were
a
great
many
Copties
.
3.
The
Ruines
of
the
ancient
Town
Sitfe
,
called
in
the
Arabian
Books
Sedafe
.
4.
The
Ruines
of
Amba
Biscioi
.
5.
Other
Mountains
of
Ruines
,
called
Kimam
Selamun
,
which
we
left
at
our
right
hand
.
6.
Temeh
,
which
was
anciently
a
Town
,
but
now
is
but
a
poor
Village
.
The
Christian
Copties
that
live
here
,
make
a
certain
sort
of
black
Searge
,
indifferent
sine
,
which
Persons
of
Quality
,
and
the
Clergy
of
the
Copties
wear
.
Out
of
the
Town
they
have
a
Church
,
dedicated
to
Amba
Fam
il
Aussimi
,
or
to
the
Abbot
Fam
of
Anssim
;
but
it
is
pitiful
.
There
is
in
this
Village
a
Cascief
.
When
we
had
well
rested
our selves
at
Temeh
,
in
the
House
of
a
poor
Christian
,
we
went
on
our
way
,
passing
first
by
a
Village
called
Coum
il
arab
,
over
against
Kau
il
Kubbara
,
which
is
at
the
East-side
of
Nilus
,
anciently
a
very
beautiful
Town
,
called
by
the
Copties
〈◊〉
〈◊〉
〈◊〉
〈◊〉
〈◊〉
,
where
the
Bishop
of
Siut
told
me
is
yet
to
be
seen
the
Ruines
of
a
beautiful
Church
of
the
ancient
Egyptians
.
We
went
next
to
Meschta
,
a
pretty
good
Town
,
and
next
to
Sciahrota
;
afterwards
we
went
upon
Mountains
of
Ruines
of
a
Town
called
Abvaitg
:
Next
night
we
lay
at
Sciech
zein
Iddin
,
a
poor
Village
,
inhabited
by
Copties
and
Moors
,
very
miserable
.
Thursday
morning
,
the
16th
of
the
Month
,
the
day
observed
by
the
Copties
in
remembrance
of
the
Invention
of
the
holy
Cross
,
we
went
to
Nezelet
issciehid
,
a
little
Village
full
of
Coptier
,
all
Dyers
.
Heretofore
in
this
place
was
a
Church
,
dedicated
to
S.
Cyriack
;
but
it
is
now
down
,
and
there
remains
nothing
but
the
Altar
in
the
open
Air.
This
day
the
Bishop
of
Siut
made
some
young
Men
Deacons
,
and
when
Mass
,
and
the
Ordination
was
ended
,
we
went
to
Tahta
,
a
great
Town
near
to
this
Village
,
where
we
lodged
at
the
House
of
one
Muallim
Petrus
,
a
Coptie
,
an
honest
,
and
rich
Man
.
A
Voyage
to
the
White
Monastery
.
SAturday
,
the
18th
of
this
Month
,
I
went
very
early
from
Tahta
,
towards
the
famous
Monastery
of
S.
Sennodius
,
sirnamed
the
White
,
about
a
good
days
Journey
from
Tahta
.
The
Bishop
of
Siut
gave
me
one
of
his
Arabians
,
named
Havaras
,
to
guide
me
.
At
the
going
out
of
the
Town
I
met
with
a
kind
of
a
Janissary
,
called
Seimen
,
who
received
no
Sallary
from
the
Grand
Seignior
,
but
lived
by
the
orders
of
the
Casciefs
;
he
was
sitting
in
the
High-way
,
where
we
were
to
pass
,
his
Musquet
upon
his
shoulder
,
a
Cutlass
at
his
side
,
and
ready
to
march
.
When
we
drew
near
him
,
he
came
to
us
,
and
stopt
me
bluntly
,
telling
me
that
I
must
alight
.
I
was
much
surprised
with
this
affront
,
and
vexed
that
without
cause
I
was
to
lose
my
Beast
,
I
seem'd
to
be
resolved
not
to
alight
;
we
continued
a
pretty
while
to
dispute
together
,
till
I
saw
him
lift
up
his
Hatchet
,
which
he
wore
at
his
Girdle
,
to
cleave
my
head
in
two
,
and
that
my
Arabian
look'd
idly
upon
us
,
as
unconcern'd
,
I
was
forced
to
yield
him
my
Ass
;
upon
which
he
got
immediately
,
and
rode
away
.
I
returned
to
the
Town
,
on
foot
,
to
the
Bishop
,
who
understanding
my
misfortune
,
caused
another
to
be
given
me
.
I
went
on
in
my
way
,
and
at
our
going
out
of
Tahta
,
we
pass'd
by
the
Ruines
of
the
ancient
Town
of
Beneviet
;
we
lest
at
our
left
hand
other
signs
of
an
ancient
Town
,
called
Posone
;
from
thence
we
pass'd
to
Sciendavil
,
a
good
Town
,
and
at
noon
we
got
as
far
as
Gezire
,
which
is
a
Town
where
the
Cascief
of
the
Province
lives
;
when
we
had
a
little
rested
our selves
in
a
Coffee-house
,
we
went
on
our
way
towards
the
Monastery
,
leaving
the
way
of
Sohaitg
,
which
we
had
kept
till
then
;
we
turned
to
the
right
hand
,
towards
the
Mountain
which
is
on
the
West
of
the
Town
,
we
went
by
Itfu
,
an
ancient
Town
,
called
by
the
Copties
〈◊〉
〈◊〉
〈◊〉
〈◊〉
〈◊〉
;
about
noon
we
got
to
the
Monastery
,
where
we
lodg'd
at
night
.
The
Monastery
of
S.
Sennodius
,
the
Archimandrite
,
sirnamed
the
White
,
is
built
near
the
Ruines
of
the
ancient
Town
Adribe
.
There
are
the
Remains
of
one
of
the
most
Magnificent
Structures
that
hath
been
in
Egypt
.
It
is
foursquare
;
its
Walls
are
builded
with
hewn
Stones
,
very
white
;
every
Stone
is
four
foot
long
,
and
a
foot
and
three
inches
high
.
It
is
seven
and
thirty
Perches
and
two
foot
long
,
which
make
two
hundred
and
twenty
four
foot
,
and
eighteen
Perches
and
three
foot
broad
,
which
make
one
hundred
and
eleven
foot
.
There
be
six
great
Gates
of
a
red
Stone
,
which
now
are
walled
up
,
one
only
excepted
,
which
now
hath
an
open
place
as
high
as
a
Man
.
The
chief
Gate
that
is
walled
up
is
now
called
Bab
il
bagl
,
or
the
Mules
Gate
,
in
remembrance
of
what
happen'd
to
a
Daughter
of
an
Heathen
King
,
who
offered
to
go
into
the
Church
in
contempt
,
riding
upon
a
Mule
,
and
was
swallowed
up
alive
in
a
Pit
that
opened
,
to
punish
her
insolency
;
which
Miracle
happen'd
by
the
Prayers
of
S.
Sennodius
,
who
begg'd
this
punishment
from
God
.
This
Gate
is
ten
foot
high
,
and
six
broad
;
every
one
of
the
Supporters
is
made
up
with
four
great
Marble
Stones
,
as
well
as
the
Lintil
,
upon
which
is
graven
three
Crosses
,
one
great
in
the
middle
,
and
two
little
ones
on
the
sides
.
Round
about
the
Building
are
two
ranks
of
Windows
,
the
lowest
are
in
the
middle
,
and
the
others
almost
touch
the
top
.
The
two
longest
sides
of
the
Building
have
each
seven
and
twenty
Windows
in
each
Rank
,
and
the
shorter
sides
each
have
nine
in
each
rank
,
but
all
these
Windows
are
walled
up
.
The
inside
of
this
Monastery
is
demollished
,
the
Heikel
excepted
,
where
Mass
is
said
,
and
the
middle
.
The
body
of
the
Church
,
called
by
the
Copties
Giamelun
,
was
heretofore
supported
with
two
ranks
of
Pillars
,
each
having
fourteen
;
which
are
yet
standing
,
but
in
the
open
Air
;
for
the
Vault
is
fallen
down
.
All
the
Pillars
are
not
of
the
same
Stone
,
nor
Workmanship
,
nor
bigness
,
nor
height
;
for
some
are
reasonably
big
,
others
are
slenderer
.
And
to
such
as
are
small
,
they
have
clapt
some
Plaister
,
to
make
them
as
big
as
the
others
.
At
the
going
in
of
the
Chancel
are
to
be
seen
two
very
beautiful
Pillars
of
Marble
,
at
the
entry
of
the
Heikel
.
Upon
that
which
stands
at
the
left
hand
is
graven
an
Epitaph
in
Greek
,
of
one
named
Heliodorus
.
These
Pillars
are
yet
entire
,
and
their
Workmanship
is
very
beautiful
.
Almost
every
where
in
the
Walls
of
the
Monastery
,
in
the
Pavement
that
is
before
the
Chancel
,
and
in
the
great
and
beautiful
pair
of
Stairs
that
lead
up
to
the
Sleeping-place
of
the
Monks
,
are
certain
great
Stones
full
of
Cyphers
and
Hieroglyphick
Figures
placed
not
right
;
by
which
we
may
understand
,
that
those
that
have
put
them
there
had
no
knowledge
of
this
mysterious
Tongue
.
In
the
Walls
within
are
six
holes
in
each
side
,
vaulted
above
,
and
curiously
adorned
with
carved
Leaves
,
so
handsomly
wrought
that
I
could
not
sufficiently
admire
the
Workmanship
.
Round
about
the
Monastery
there
is
much
black
Marble
.
In
one
of
the
Apartments
of
the
Monastery
,
towards
the
West
,
at
the
left
hand
as
one
goes
in
,
there
is
a
large
and
deep
Well
.
The
Monks
told
me
that
the
Water
was
forty
Cubits
deep
,
and
that
it
had
been
sanctified
,
or
bless'd
,
by
our
Saviour
.
It
is
very
sweet
and
wholesome
,
and
rises
and
falls
with
Nilus
,
though
it
hath
no
communication
with
this
River
.
The
next
day
in
the
morning
,
being
Sunday
,
and
the
ninth
day
of
the
Month
,
after
Mass
,
I
went
,
with
my
Arabian
,
towards
Red
Monastery
,
about
an
hours
travelling
from
the
White
,
at
the
foot
of
the
same
Mountain
,
towards
Tahta
.
The
colour
of
the
Bricks
with
which
this
Monastery
is
built
,
hath
given
it
the
name
of
Red.
It
is
built
in
the
same
manner
as
the
White
,
but
a
great
deal
less
.
At
the
South-side
it
hath
yet
a
Building
standing
,
that
was
crested
,
as
the
Monks
say
,
by
S.
Helene
,
when
she
went
to
Isne
to
visit
the
bodies
of
the
holy
Martyrs
.
It
was
intended
to
inclose
the
Well
of
the
Monastery
within
the
Walls
,
and
to
hinder
the
Arabians
,
when
they
made
in
roads
from
their
Mountains
,
from
troubling
the
Monks
,
or
taking
away
from
them
the
Water
.
There
remains
nothing
of
this
Church
,
but
the
Chancel
,
and
the
Heikel
,
or
place
where
Mass
is
read
.
The
Pillars
that
kept
up
the
body
of
the
Church
are
yet
standing
,
all
of
an
equal
length
and
bigness
.
In
this
particular
they
excell
those
of
the
White
Monastery
,
as
well
as
in
the
beauty
of
the
Workmanship
,
especially
their
Capitals
.
The
Builders
of
this
Monastery
was
Amba
Biscioi
,
who
having
a
long
time
liv'd
as
a
Robber
,
as
the
Story
of
his
Life
saith
,
at
last
he
repented
and
ended
his
days
very
well
.
Some
told
me
,
that
the
Club
with
which
he
us'd
to
knock
down
Passengers
is
hung
up
in
the
Chancel
of
this
Church
.
I
saw
it
not
,
because
I
was
told
of
it
after
I
was
gone
out
of
the
Monastery
.
There
is
a
Pillar
also
at
each
side
of
the
Door
of
the
Heikel
,
of
an
excellent
Workmanship
,
especially
their
Capitals
,
which
are
the
most
beautiful
that
I
ever
beheld
.
But
this
Monastery
,
as
well
as
the
White
,
is
altogether
ruinated
within
.
When
I
had
seen
all
that
was
worthy
of
notice
,
I
return'd
to
Tahta
,
where
I
arriv'd
,
about
noon
,
the
21th
of
the
month
,
and
the
next
day
we
went
to
Siut
.
A
few
days
after
,
I
went
with
the
Bishop
of
Siut
to
the
Monastery
of
S.
Athanasius
,
which
is
about
three
hours
travelling
from
thence
,
I
fancied
to
see
there
some
rare
Reliques
of
Antiquity
,
but
I
was
deceiv'd
;
for
I
saw
that
it
was
one
of
the
most
woful
Monasteries
in
Egypt
,
so
that
I
shall
not
mention
it
any
more
.
In
our
way
to
this
Monastery
,
we
saw
that
of
the
Virgin
at
Doronque
,
scituate
upon
the
Mountain
that
stands
at
the
right
hand
.
This
Monastery
,
with
its
Church
,
are
cut
in
the
Rock
;
which
is
the
only
thing
there
to
be
noted
.
All
the
rest
was
so
far
from
satisfying
my
Curiosity
,
that
I
beheld
nothing
but
Ruines
and
misery
.
But
that
I
might
not
lose
,
altogether
,
my
labour
,
in
climbing
up
to
the
Mountain
,
I
went
to
see
the
Caves
that
were
near
.
My
Guide
led
me
into
one
as
high
as
a
Man
on
horseback
,
so
extraordinary
large
,
that
without
hyperbole
a
thousand
Horse
might
there
draw
up
in
Battel
array
,
which
caused
me
to
wonder
not
a
little
.
As
soon
as
we
were
out
of
this
large
Cave
,
my
Guide
led
me
into
another
hard
by
,
larger
than
the
former
:
when
I
was
within
about
two
hundred
paces
,
he
told
me
to
hearken
to
a
certain
place
of
the
Wall
,
at
the
left
hand
as
one
goes
in
.
Use
no
doubt
had
made
him
take
notice
of
this
place
;
for
I
saw
no
sign
outward
to
cause
one
to
mind
it
.
I
drew
near
to
listen
,
and
I
heard
behind
the
Wall
,
the
noise
as
of
a
Wind-mill
,
so
distinct
that
I
marvelled
greatly
,
only
the
noise
seem'd
to
come
from
far
.
I
wonder'd
the
more
,
when
he
told
me
that
behind
this
Rock
there
was
no
empty
place
,
nor
passage
,
for
the
Air
to
make
this
noise
,
which
has
continued
during
the
memory
of
Man
.
All
Persons
of
whom
I
inquir'd
for
the
cause
of
this
Wonder
,
told
me
nothing
else
,
but
that
it
was
a
Talisman
,
and
that
there
was
some
hidden
Treasure
.
A
little
further
,
towards
the
South
,
upon
the
same
Mountain
,
are
to
be
seen
the
Ruines
of
an
ancient
Monastery
,
dedicated
to
S.
Severus
,
Patriarch
of
Antioch
,
whom
the
Copties
reverence
as
a
Saint
,
because
he
maintain'd
the
Doctrine
of
Dioscorus
their
Patriarch
,
whose
opinions
they
follow
.
The
Bishop
of
Siut
told
me
,
that
heretofore
three
hundred
and
threescore
Monks
inhabited
in
this
Monastery
,
who
employed
themselves
in
seeking
for
the
Philosopher
Stone
,
and
in
the
works
of
Chymistry
;
an
excellent
Employment
for
such
as
have
left
the
World
,
and
forsaken
their
Riches
.
My
return
from
Siut
to
Momfallot
.
THE
26th
of
March
I
return'd
to
Momfallot
,
with
an
intent
to
take
Boat
for
Girge
,
and
continue
my
Travels
farther
.
I
enter'd
into
the
Town
about
noon
;
as
soon
as
I
was
in
my
former
Lodging
,
a
Man
of
my
acquaintance
gave
me
notice
that
the
Christians
of
that
place
,
those
very
Persons
to
whom
I
had
been
recommended
by
their
Patriarch
,
had
accused
me
to
the
Cascief
,
and
told
him
that
I
was
a
rich
Franc
,
who
made
it
my
business
to
run
up
and
down
the
Land
,
to
discover
where
the
Treasures
were
hid
,
to
inform
the
King
of
France
,
who
intended
to
come
and
Conquer
Egypt
.
This
Friend
said
also
that
the
Cascief
had
commanded
to
take
me
,
where
ever
I
should
be
found
.
This
wicked
news
made
me
think
upon
a
retreat
,
and
at
that
time
there
was
no
conveniency
to
go
by
Water
to
Girge
,
and
because
the
Cascief
might
have
sooner
taken
me
on
that
side
,
his
Jurisdiction
reaching
a
great
way
;
I
went
back
to
Melave
,
because
his
Dominion
was
but
narrow
thitherward
.
I
took
that
way
to
return
to
Cairo
,
the
place
of
my
ordinary
abode
,
whither
I
went
by
Land
;
for
I
had
been
by
Water
before
.
At
our
going
out
of
Momfallot
we
went
by
Om
il
Cossur
,
a
Village
,
where
great
Mountains
of
Ruines
are
to
he
seen
.
We
left
next
at
our
left
hand
,
the
signs
of
the
ancient
Town
Cossie
,
which
is
called
by
the
Greek
Authors
Apollonopolis
.
We
went
by
Sennabo
next
,
which
is
a
very
good
and
populous
Town
.
We
saw
Biblau
,
Bamib
,
and
after
Sun
set
we
came
to
Tarut
Isscerif
,
a
great
Village
,
where
we
were
entertained
gratis
by
an
Arabian
Lord
,
who
keeps
an
House
of
Hospitality
,
called
in
that
Tongue
Beit
diafe
,
to
lodge
Strangers
,
that
will
stay
there
a
night
,
with
their
Beasts
.
He
entertains
them
at
his
own
charge
.
The
next
day
,
the
28th
of
the
Month
,
after
that
I
had
returned
thanks
to
my
Benefactor
,
I
went
streight
to
Melave
.
At
our
going
out
of
Tarut
Isscerif
,
I
went
through
the
Channel
of
Joseph's
River
on
foot
,
for
there
it
begins
.
I
went
next
to
Tanuf
,
a
Village
,
where
some
Ruines
are
yet
to
be
seen
;
and
about
noon
we
were
at
Melave
,
where
I
lodged
at
the
Occale
,
or
Inn
,
that
is
near
the
Market-place
,
at
the
West-side
of
the
Town
,
near
the
great
Mosque
;
and
because
the
upper
Chambers
were
all
taken
up
by
Turks
,
I
was
obliged
to
lodge
in
a
very
low
Room
,
where
I
met
with
many
inconveniences
,
because
it
was
near
the
Door
,
at
the
passage
of
all
comers
and
goers
.
Wednesday
,
the
29th
of
the
Month
,
the
Turks
begin
the
Feast
called
Eid
il
dehie
,
or
the
Easter
of
the
Victims
;
for
they
use
to
kill
Sheep
during
this
Festival
,
and
give
the
Flesh
to
the
Poor
for
Gods
sake
.
This
Festival
continues
three
days
,
during
which
time
the
Copties
buy
no
Victuals
from
the
Mahometans
,
nor
Bread
,
Wine
,
Flesh
,
Coffee
,
nor
Water
.
By
this
they
discover
their
abhorrency
of
that
Religion
;
for
thereby
they
shun
all
occasions
of
communicating
with
them
.
At
Melave
I
got
acquaintance
with
an
Arch-Priest
of
that
place
,
called
Nassr
alla
.
He
was
the
honestest
,
civilest
,
and
ablest
Man
that
I
ever
knew
of
that
Nation
.
There
are
about
seven
hundred
Caraches
,
or
Heads
,
that
pay
Tribute
.
They
have
there
a
Church
,
dedicaced
to
S.
Michael
,
which
is
but
little
,
poor
,
and
obscure
.
The
River
Nilus
swallowed
up
heretofore
the
ancient
Melave
,
and
now
the
River
runs
in
the
place
where
that
Town
stood
.
The
Town
now
is
built
in
another
place
,
where
was
anciently
a
Wood
that
was
a
retreat
for
Robbers
.
A
Voyage
into
the
Lower
Thebes
.
I
Was
loth
to
return
to
Cairo
without
seeing
the
Country
of
the
Lower
Thebes
,
or
at
least
a
part
of
it
,
seeing
that
I
was
so
near
it
;
I
resolved
therefore
to
follow
the
advice
of
my
Friend
,
the
Arch-Priest
,
and
to
go
to
the
Monastery
of
Abuhennis
il
Kessir
,
or
of
S.
John
the
little
,
whereof
he
was
Governour
,
scituate
near
the
ancient
Town
Insine
,
on
the
East-side
of
Nilus
,
about
an
hours
travelling
from
Melave
,
to
see
the
Rarities
thereabouts
.
Saturday
,
the
first
of
April
,
I
went
from
Melave
to
this
Monastery
;
and
the
next
day
,
being
our
Easter-Sunday
,
I
got
a
Guide
to
lead
me
upon
the
Mountain
,
which
is
behind
,
on
the
East-side
,
to
see
the
Caves
of
the
ancient
Hermites
that
are
round
about
,
and
near
to
the
Town
,
which
have
given
to
it
the
name
of
Thebes
,
as
we
shall
see
in
the
following
discourse
.
I
went
into
many
of
these
Caves
that
were
all
very
large
.
I
saw
nothing
worthy
of
notice
,
but
in
some
certain
Crosses
graven
in
the
Rock
;
and
upon
the
Walls
of
one
I
saw
two
Angels
,
holding
up
with
their
hands
a
Cross
in
the
Air.
The
only
thing
that
pleas'd
me
among
these
Caves
,
was
a
Monastery
,
with
a
Church
,
all
cut
in
a
firm
Rock
.
The
Vault
of
the
Church
was
smooth
,
and
the
Paving
very
even
.
The
Walls
were
painted
in
an
antick
fashion
,
with
the
Histories
of
the
New
Testament
,
with
Images
of
Hermites
,
and
Saints
,
whose
names
were
written
underneath
in
Coptick
Letters
.
At
the
end
of
the
Church
,
Southward
,
I
saw
a
Cross
cut
in
the
Rock
,
with
a
Greek
Inscription
,
in
ancient
Characters
.
And
upon
the
Walls
of
another
Cave
,
at
a
little
distance
from
this
Church
,
and
higher
,
about
the
top
of
the
Mountain
,
I
sound
also
another
graven
upon
the
Wall
;
and
near
this
,
two
others
,
which
are
all
Epitaphs
of
Abbots
there
Interr'd
.
I
could
not
cause
them
to
be
put
here
,
because
the
Printer
would
not
be
at
the
charge
of
the
Characters
.
April
the
third
,
being
Monday
in
Easter
Week
,
I
went
to
the
ancient
Town
of
Insine
,
called
in
the
Copties
Dictionaries
Antinoe
,
and
Thebes
.
I
went
to
see
first
the
Tomb
of
Mahomet
Bey
,
a
Bey
of
Girge
,
about
fourteen
years
ago
.
When
he
took
arms
against
Pacha
Gaze
,
he
was
defeated
at
Melave
,
and
his
men
forsook
him
;
he
was
taken
and
strangled
.
His
Tomb
is
out
of
the
City
in
the
common
burying
place
,
and
though
there
is
nothing
there
extraordinary
,
I
was
desirous
to
see
it
,
because
he
hath
been
,
and
is
yet
in
great
reputation
amongst
the
Inhabitants
for
his
Justice
and
good
Government
,
which
hath
caused
him
to
be
lamented
by
all
the
Vpper
Egypt
.
When
I
had
seen
this
Tomb
,
I
walked
into
the
Town
,
and
the
first
thing
that
I
took
notice
of
,
as
a
great
Antiquity
,
was
the
Pillar
of
Marcus
Aurelius
.
It
s
bottom
is
above
five
foot
,
the
four
uppermost
are
all
even
,
and
the
fifth
below
is
adorned
with
carved
leaves
.
In
the
Basis
is
a
Greek
Inscription
containing
thirteen
lines
.
I
saw
near
this
Pillar
the
pieces
of
three
others
,
very
much
resembling
this
,
but
broken
down
;
there
was
nothing
of
them
standing
but
the
Basis
of
one
.
From
the
Pillar
I
went
to
see
the
Arch
of
Triumph
,
which
is
almost
all
standing
.
I
took
a
delight
to
climb
up
to
it
by
a
little
pair
of
Stairs
winding
up
in
the
Wall
of
the
Arch
,
containing
fifty
steps
,
or
thereabouts
.
I
rested
my self
at
the
greatest
Window
which
is
upon
the
chief
Vault
,
where
I
had
the
satisfaction
to
discover
all
its
ruines
,
and
the
scituation
of
this
Town
,
heretofore
so
famous
.
This
Arch
is
alone
,
and
altogether
separated
from
the
other
Ruines
,
and
about
four
paces
from
the
River
Nilus
;
but
for
want
of
an
Inscription
,
none
knows
for
whom
,
and
by
whom
it
hath
been
rais'd
.
It
is
not
inrich'd
with
carved
Works
,
as
those
of
Orange
and
Rome
;
nevertheless
it
is
one
of
the
most
beautiful
that
I
have
ever
seen
.
One
of
its
fronts
hath
eight
and
forty
foot
in
breadth
,
and
one
of
its
sides
four
and
twenty
.
The
great
Vault
in
the
middle
,
which
is
between
two
little
ones
,
is
about
16
foot
broad
,
and
each
of
the
two
little
ones
seven
foot
.
The
thickness
of
the
Wall
which
is
between
the
great
and
the
little
Vaults
,
which
is
but
one
stone
,
is
of
six
foot
and
two
inches
:
The
thickness
which
is
between
the
little
Vault
,
and
the
outward
Angle
of
the
Arch
,
is
of
five
foot
:
The
front
that
looks
towards
Nilus
,
is
on
the
South-East
side
.
There
is
yet
fourteen
Pillars
of
Marble
on
the
left
hand
of
this
Arch
,
in
a
streight
line
towards
the
River
;
some
of
them
have
their
Capitals
,
others
have
lost
them
;
some
are
joyned
to
the
Huts
of
some
Arabians
that
dwell
there
.
On
the
same
side
,
towards
the
Monastery
of
Abuhennis
,
are
to
be
seen
three
beautiful
Pillars
of
Porphyry
standing
;
some
of
them
have
their
tops
;
a
fourth
lies
along
the
ground
near
by
.
In
the
Mosque
of
this
Town
is
a
Sciech
,
or
Saint
,
whom
the
Arabians
call
Sciech
Abade
,
for
whom
they
have
a
great
Veneration
,
for
they
believe
him
to
have
been
a
Mahometan
;
but
they
are
much
deceived
,
he
was
a
Christian
,
a
Bishop
of
Isne
,
he
suffered
Martyrdom
at
Isne
.
They
have
called
him
Sciech
Abade
,
by
an
error
which
the
Sir-name
of
this
Bishop
hath
caused
.
He
was
called
Ammonius
il
Abed
,
or
the
devout
Ammonius
.
The
Arabians
,
through
a
mistake
of
the
word
Abed
,
making
it
a
proper
name
,
whereas
it
is
but
an
appellative
,
have
called
him
Sciech
Abade
.
His
Reliques
are
kept
in
the
Heikel
of
this
Church
,
which
now
is
a
Mosque
.
I
went
afterwards
to
take
a
view
of
a
magnificent
Palace
,
called
by
the
Arabians
Abulkerun
,
or
the
horned
Building
,
because
,
as
I
think
,
the
Pillars
that
are
before
this
Palace
have
Capitals
,
whereof
the
Angles
are
so
great
,
that
they
appear
as
so
many
Horns
to
the
beholders
,
which
the
word
Kern
signifies
.
But
when
I
had
viewed
so
many
old
Reliques
,
I
was
so
weary
,
that
I
returned
to
the
Monastery
;
and
the
rather
,
because
of
the
violent
heat
,
with
an
intent
to
return
another
day
,
and
examine
all
things
more
exactly
.
Tuesday
the
fourth
of
April
,
I
went
with
my
ordinary
Guide
to
see
the
Vadigamus
,
and
the
Caves
that
are
there
.
Vadigamus
is
a
narrow
Valley
,
between
two
Mountains
,
which
are
as
high
as
one
another
,
and
flat
on
the
top
.
This
Valley
is
like
a
Bugle
,
from
whence
I
believe
this
Valley
hath
borrowed
the
name
;
for
the
word
Vadigamus
signifies
the
Valley
of
the
Bugle
.
At
the
beginning
it
hath
a
large
entrance
,
which
answers
to
a
great
sandy
Plain
,
which
is
at
one
side
of
the
Monastery
of
Abuhennis
.
It
stretches
it self
Southwards
,
about
half
an
hours
travelling
over
:
Afterwards
it
riseth
by
degrees
to
the
top
of
the
Mountains
,
where
it
unites
and
joyns
them
,
and
represents
the
bottom
of
a
Sack
.
On
both
sides
of
these
two
Mountains
that
face
one
another
,
are
two
Ranks
of
Caves
,
each
Rank
containing
fifty
Caves
,
or
thereabouts
,
which
make
one
hundred
Caves
upon
each
Mountain
.
I
enter'd
into
some
of
them
that
were
so
high
,
that
three
long
Pikes
tyed
to
one
another
would
not
have
reach'd
to
the
top
:
They
are
very
large
,
but
without
order
within
,
and
uneven
,
and
not
perfectly
square
.
I
have
wondered
at
the
capricious
designs
of
the
Ancient
Egyptians
,
to
make
such
wide
Caves
so
high
,
and
so
numerous
,
yielding
so
little
conveniency
to
the
Inhabitants
,
for
they
are
made
upon
the
steep
Mountains
of
Sand
,
far
from
Towns
and
Water
,
digg'd
in
the
dark
and
main
Rocks
.
If
I
had
not
perus'd
the
History
of
Said
ibn
Patrik
,
who
saith
,
that
the
Pharaoh's
,
Kings
of
Egypt
,
imployed
the
Israelites
in
digging
in
these
Mountains
,
I
should
be
of
the
opinion
of
the
Country
people
,
who
believe
that
all
these
Caves
have
been
made
by
Devils
,
who
have
been
thereunto
forced
by
Conjurers
,
this
Art
having
been
always
much
practis'd
in
Egypt
;
for
one
would
think
that
it
is
not
possible
for
men
to
make
them
:
and
I
dare
say
,
that
when
a
Traveller
hath
seen
all
the
Curiosities
of
Egypt
,
if
he
hath
not
seen
these
Mountains
and
Caves
of
the
Province
of
Thebes
,
he
hath
seen
nothing
.
Wednesday
the
fifth
of
the
Month
,
I
went
again
to
Insine
,
to
look
upon
its
Ruines
with
more
exactness
,
and
chiefly
upon
the
Pillars
that
stand
before
the
Abulkerun
,
on
the
North-west
side
.
There
are
in
all
four
before
the
front
of
this
Palace
,
which
heretofore
was
very
magnificent
,
but
now
there
remains
but
little
,
incompassed
about
with
the
Ruines
.
Two
of
these
Pillars
are
on
the
one
side
of
the
door
,
and
two
on
the
other
;
three
are
yet
standing
,
only
a
third
part
of
the
fourth
appears
:
they
are
made
of
a
certain
white
sandy
stone
,
which
is
taken
out
of
the
Mountains
near
this
Town
:
they
are
hollow
on
the
sides
,
from
the
bottom
to
the
middle
,
but
the
rest
upwards
is
smooth
:
the
bottom
or
bulk
is
nigh
thirteen
foot
about
;
their
Capitals
are
of
two
pieces
,
seven
foot
in
Diameter
;
every
bottom
is
of
five
pieces
,
and
every
piece
is
seven
foot
long
.
There
was
behind
this
Palace
,
on
the
South-East
side
,
four
other
Pillars
of
the
same
bigness
,
form
,
and
substance
;
but
they
are
overthrown
.
I
could
scarce
discern
where
their
Basis
stood
:
the
Pillar
of
Marcus
Aurelius
stands
at
the
North-West
side
of
this
old
Palace
.
The
same
day
I
went
again
to
see
the
Pillar
of
Marcus
Aurelius
;
its
Basis
is
thirteen
foot
high
,
made
up
with
eight
ranks
of
stones
;
the
first
and
lowest
is
half
in
the
ground
,
and
half
out
;
the
second
is
two
foot
high
;
the
third
a
foot
and
eight
inches
;
the
fourth
,
fifth
,
and
sixth
,
upon
which
is
the
Inscription
,
each
two
foot
and
two
inches
;
the
seventh
bends
out
;
the
eighth
is
the
immediate
Basis
upon
which
the
Pillar
stands
:
This
Basis
is
five
foot
long
,
and
two
foot
and
ten
inches
high
;
it
is
square
in
the
bottom
,
in
the
middle
Octogone
,
or
of
eight
Angles
,
and
in
the
top
Oval
:
upon
this
stone
is
the
bottom
of
the
Pillar
,
which
is
made
up
of
five
pieces
;
the
lowermost
is
beautified
with
Oaken
leaves
carved
in
the
stone
;
I
have
never
seen
the
like
elsewhere
,
it
is
three
foot
and
a
half
high
;
the
four
other
pieces
are
of
seven
foot
each
,
and
three
inches
long
;
the
Diameter
of
the
Pillar
is
of
three
foot
and
seven
inches
;
the
Capital
is
of
one
stone
,
three
foot
and
an
inch
high
;
the
Circumference
is
of
seven
foot
;
upon
the
Capital
stands
an
unpolish'd
stone
,
four
foot
and
two
inches
long
,
and
three
foot
high
.
I
perceived
that
in
this
Town
heretofore
there
hath
been
two
Streets
more
remarkable
than
the
others
;
one
begun
at
the
Abulkerun
,
and
ended
at
the
four
Pillars
of
Marcus
Aurelius
,
stretching
from
East
to
North.
This
Street
was
adorned
with
two
ranks
of
Pillars
,
one
rank
in
each
side
:
the
second
begins
at
the
Arch
of
Triumph
,
which
is
at
one
end
of
the
Town
,
at
the
South-East
,
drawing
to
the
North-East
.
These
Streets
are
very
long
,
large
,
streight
,
and
full
of
ruines
of
stately
Palaces
.
About
three
a
Clock
in
the
Afternoon
,
I
went
the
third
time
to
see
the
Monastery
digg'd
in
the
Rock
,
mentioned
before
.
I
have
always
taken
a
great
delight
to
view
it
,
because
the
sight
of
it
moved
my
Devotion
:
It
stands
about
half
an
hours
travelling
a-foot
from
the
Monastery
of
Abuhennis
,
where
I
was
,
and
East
from
this
Monastery
.
In
Insine
,
as
well
as
in
the
Caves
of
the
Mountains
round
about
,
are
to
be
seen
in
the
ground
great
Pots
,
in
which
the
ancient
Inhabitants
of
this
Province
kept
their
Wines
:
They
have
an
Ear
at
each
side
,
and
are
sharp
at
the
bottom
,
that
they
might
be
sixed
in
the
ground
:
my
Guide
found
many
,
which
he
brought
to
me
;
but
the
Wine
was
dried
within
,
and
as
black
as
Pitch
:
I
have
sent
two
of
them
to
Paris
.
The
seventh
of
April
,
the
Good-Friday
of
the
Copties
,
I
went
with
my
Guide
to
see
the
Caves
that
are
near
the
Monastery
of
Amba
Biscioi
,
about
a
mile
from
the
Convent
,
towards
the
South
.
The
first
remarkable
thing
that
I
saw
,
was
the
Hieroglyphick
Cave
,
which
the
Country
people
commonly
call
the
Church
.
I
conceive
this
mistake
proceeds
from
the
Crosses
which
are
painted
every
where
within
.
To
go
into
this
Cave
,
one
must
pass
through
another
before
it
.
This
was
heretofore
very
beautiful
and
great
,
but
now
it
is
much
decayed
.
The
top
is
fallen
down
;
there
remains
nothing
but
the
two
side-walls
,
full
of
Hieroglyphick
Figures
graven
in
the
Rock
;
some
are
great
,
others
are
little
,
others
are
of
a
moderate
size
,
but
all
very
clean
in
good
order
.
From
thence
is
a
passage
into
the
Hieroglyphick
Cave
,
which
I
believe
was
a
Temple
of
the
Heathens
:
It
is
square
,
very
smooth
within
,
cut
in
the
Rock
,
sour
Perches
long
,
three
Perches
and
one
foot
broad
,
and
two
Perches
high
:
The
door
that
leads
into
it
is
four
foot
and
a
half
large
.
In
this
Cave
,
over
against
the
door
,
is
a
hole
in
the
Wall
,
of
a
Perch
and
a
foot
deep
,
and
four
foot
broad
,
and
a
Perch
and
one
foot
and
eight
inches
high
.
This
Cave
is
full
of
Images
in
the
Walls
,
and
above
,
which
represent
their
Sciences
by
Emblemes
,
and
Hieroglyphick
Figures
,
with
very
little
Characters
in
their
Language
round
about
.
The
colours
of
them
are
so
beautiful
and
lively
,
that
I
could
not
but
wonder
how
they
could
continue
so
fresh
,
during
so
many
Ages
.
Besides
this
great
number
of
Characters
there
painted
,
are
to
be
seen
some
lines
of
the
same
little
Characters
very
clean
carved
in
the
Wall
,
some
reaching
from
one
end
to
the
other
,
others
from
the
top
to
the
bottom
.
These
Characters
,
and
Figures
,
are
so
numerous
,
that
they
are
not
to
be
drawn
by
any
in
less
than
a
Months
time
.
Under
these
two
Caves
there
is
a
rank
of
others
in
the
Rock
,
very
even
within
,
but
they
are
without
Figures
,
and
less
,
and
not
so
high
as
the
former
;
for
they
are
but
six
foot
high
.
In
the
bottom
of
every
Cave
is
a
Well
,
square
,
and
deep
in
the
Rock
,
into
which
one
may
go
down
by
the
means
of
holes
,
or
steps
,
made
on
purpose
in
both
sides
of
every
Well
.
And
in
the
bottom
of
every
Well
is
an
Alley
in
the
Rock
,
but
because
these
Alleys
are
durty
and
obscure
,
none
of
our
Company
would
venture
to
go
down
.
In
the
Walls
of
some
of
these
Caves
are
square
holes
,
six
foot
deep
,
and
two
foot
broad
,
about
the
bigness
of
a
Coffin
;
which
makes
me
believe
that
the
Egyptians
did
put
here
their
dead
in
these
Caves
.
A
little
farther
,
towards
the
South
,
is
another
large
Cave
.
I
saw
on
the
left
hand
an
Hieroglyphick
Picture
in
the
Wall
,
with
thirteen
lines
underneath
,
of
Characters
cut
in
the
Picture
.
From
this
Cave
,
which
is
at
the
end
of
the
Mountain
,
towards
the
South
,
we
went
back
to
the
Monastery
of
Abuhennis
;
and
in
our
way
we
saw
all
the
Caves
that
are
in
order
upon
this
Mountain
,
as
far
as
the
place
where
the
Vadigamus
begins
.
We
saw
no
rarity
,
only
some
painted
Crosses
,
in
red
,
roughly
drawn
;
from
whence
we
gathered
,
that
heretofore
they
have
served
as
Churches
.
By
the
differing
Workmanship
of
these
Caves
,
one
may
easily
distinguish
such
as
have
been
made
by
the
ancient
Egyptians
,
by
the
Christians
,
and
Anchorites
that
caused
this
Province
to
flourish
;
for
the
former
are
very
regular
,
out
within
,
with
much
care
,
and
smooth
;
but
the
others
are
rough
,
and
irregular
.
And
because
the
Country
People
think
that
there
is
no
Cave
without
a
rich
Treasure
,
the
Arabians
have
digg'd
every
where
,
and
spoil'd
also
the
Hieroglyphick
Cave
,
which
is
named
the
Church
.
They
have
so
much
undermin'd
the
Walls
that
some
of
the
top
is
fallen
down
,
and
the
Rain
hath
spoiled
some
of
the
Emblems
,
and
Characters
that
adorned
the
Wall
.
And
,
as
if
Time
had
not
blotted
out
enough
,
they
have
put
out
the
Eyes
of
the
Images
,
and
Figures
,
in
a
brutish
manner
,
natural
to
them
.
I
was
highly
displeas'd
to
see
this
;
for
were
it
not
for
this
brutality
,
this
beautiful
Cave
would
have
kept
it self
▪
entire
till
now
.
When
we
had
staid
nine
days
in
the
Monastery
of
Abuhennis
,
I
return'd
to
Melave
,
the
8th
of
April
;
from
whence
I
went
,
the
15th
of
the
same
Month
,
to
Minie
,
altering
my
first
design
to
go
by
Land
;
for
I
saw
that
it
would
be
too
painful
,
and
too
dangerous
.
Minie
,
in
the
Arabian
Books
called
Miniet
ibn
chassit
,
is
an
ancient
,
great
,
and
beautiful
Town
,
on
the
West-side
of
Nilus
.
It
s
Antiquity
appears
by
its
old
Buildings
,
by
its
strait
Streets
,
so
narrow
that
two
Men
can
scarce
to
a-breast
.
In
this
Town
the
Bardaques
,
or
Water-pots
,
are
made
,
which
are
highly
esteem'd
at
Cairo
,
for
their
fashion
,
and
property
,
to
cool
Water
.
They
are
made
with
a
kind
of
Clay
,
taken
about
a
days
Journey
from
thence
,
on
the
East-side
of
Nilus
,
in
a
place
called
Sciech
fadl
,
from
the
name
of
a
religious
Mahometan
there
Interr'd
.
The
19th
of
this
Month
,
I
went
aboard
a
Vessel
,
bound
for
Benesuef
;
a
good
Wind
carried
us
a
great
way
in
a
little
space
of
time
.
At
nine
a
Clock
we
were
over
against
Gebel
Teir
,
or
the
Mountain
of
Birds
;
so
called
,
because
at
a
set
day
of
the
year
,
all
the
Birds
round
about
meet
in
a
place
,
where
a
Talisman
draws
them
together
from
all
sides
,
and
causeth
them
to
stay
there
one
day
;
when
they
have
continued
there
till
night
,
they
all
fly
away
,
one
excepted
,
which
remains
there
,
the
Bill
fixed
in
the
Rock
,
till
the
same
day
the
next
year
;
at
which
time
it
falls
down
,
and
another
takes
its
place
.
When
we
pass'd
over
against
this
Mountain
,
I
saw
on
the
top
a
Stone
,
which
is
called
the
Camel
,
because
,
at
a
distance
,
it
is
like
a
Camel
.
A
little
further
in
our
way
,
we
discover'd
Taka
,
or
the
Window
,
or
a
great
hole
which
Nature
hath
made
in
the
Rock
,
like
a
Window
;
which
serves
as
a
passage
for
the
Birds
when
they
go
to
their
Rendezvous
whither
the
Talisman
draws
them
,
as
the
People
of
the
Country
say
,
and
their
Historians
affirm
.
When
the
Moors
are
come
to
this
Window
,
they
use
to
say
the
Chapter
of
the
Fatha
,
or
first
Chapter
of
the
Alcoran
,
for
the
poor
People
,
who
live
,
as
they
say
,
in
this
part
of
the
Mountain
,
as
Beasts
,
feeding
upon
nothing
but
raw
Herbs
.
After
Dinner
we
went
by
Bene
Mohammed
il
Kifur
,
a
Village
scituate
on
the
West-side
of
Nilus
.
Over
against
it
is
an
old
Monastery
,
ruinated
;
and
a
little
further
appear
a
great
many
Caves
,
upon
the
Mountain
near
by
.
After
we
had
pass'd
by
an
old
Castle
destroyed
,
we
went
to
lye
at
Benemzar
,
a
great
Village
,
scituate
on
the
West-side
of
Nilus
,
this
River
having
wash'd
away
almost
half
the
Buildings
.
We
went
from
thence
,
Thursday
morning
,
the
20th
of
April
,
with
a
South-East
Wind
,
fit
to
carry
us
to
Benesuef
.
It
was
yet
in
the
morning
when
we
sailed
before
Heggiar
Selame
,
which
is
a
Bank
in
the
River
Nilus
.
Over
against
it
are
the
Ruines
of
an
ancient
Town
,
and
the
Tomb
of
a
Sciech
,
or
Saint
.
About
noon
we
were
near
the
Ruines
of
another
ancient
Town
,
called
Medinet
Giahel
,
which
stands
at
the
East
of
Nilus
;
there
are
to
be
seen
yet
several
Remains
of
Houses
,
made
up
with
Bricks
dried
in
the
Sun
.
Over
against
it
is
Feggen
,
a
Village
often
mention'd
in
a
Book
called
Sinaxar
.
After
Dinner
a
strong
Wind
arose
,
and
forced
us
to
stop
at
Bebe
,
a
great
Village
which
is
near
Benesuef
,
where
we
found
incamped
a
Troop
of
Arabians
,
called
Ateijat
,
with
whom
I
pass'd
the
rest
of
the
day
in
discourse
.
Friday
,
the
21th
of
the
Month
,
we
arriv'd
at
Benesuef
,
where
we
continued
till
the
next
day
;
and
on
the
24th
of
the
Month
I
returned
to
Caire
,
without
seeing
Isne
,
as
I
had
an
intent
.
But
that
the
Reader
may
know
what
rarities
are
to
be
seen
in
this
Town
,
and
round
about
,
I
have
here
added
that
which
hath
been
taken
notice
of
by
Father
Portais
,
a
Capuchin
,
in
the
year
1668.
according
to
the
account
given
me
by
the
Reverend
Father
Francis
,
his
Brother
,
and
Companion
in
his
Travels
.
M.
Thevenot
hath
already
inserted
it
in
his
Collection
of
Travels
,
printed
at
Paris
,
in
Folio
;
but
not
so
large
,
nor
with
th●
Particulars
here
added
.
Of
all
the
Towns
of
the
Upper
Egypt
,
wher●
the
Copties
have
Churches
,
that
of
Isne
is
the
furthest
from
Cairo
.
It
is
built
at
the
West-side
of
Nilus
,
upon
a
Hill
that
stretches
along
the
River
.
It
may
be
judged
to
be
an
ancient
Town
,
by
a
Temple
of
Pagans
yet
standing
.
The
Copties
have
there
two
Churches
,
but
very
poor
;
one
is
dedicated
to
the
blessed
Virgin
,
and
the
other
to
S.
Pelagius
.
The
Christian
Copties
here
may
make
twenty
Caraches
in
number
;
they
are
all
Weavers
,
and
ruled
by
two
Arch-Priests
,
the
one
named
Matthew
,
and
the
other
Soliman
.
Half
a
mile
from
Isne
is
to
be
seen
a
Convent
,
which
the
Copties
say
hath
been
built
by
S.
Helena
,
dedicated
to
the
holy
Martyrs
of
this
Town
,
whom
the
Governour
of
Dioclesian
Massacred
in
such
numbers
,
that
their
dead
Corpses
covered
fourscore
Fiddans
,
or
Acres
of
Ground
.
Round
about
this
Burying-place
are
to
be
seen
Tombs
curiously
wrought
,
which
they
say
were
erected
by
this
holy
Empress
.
Three
leagues
from
Isne
is
another
Convent
,
dedicated
to
S.
Matthew
,
where
are
four
or
five
Tombs
,
like
those
that
we
come
from
mentioning
.
Upon
an
Altar
Stone
of
a
little
Chappel
,
dedicated
to
St.
Michael
the
Arch-Angel
,
we
sound
some
Characters
which
were
not
Hyeroglyphick
,
in
a
Language
that
we
understood
not
.
About
eleven
leagues
on
this
side
of
Isne
,
at
the
East
of
Nilus
,
is
to
be
seen
Tuot
,
a
great
Town
,
where
is
a
Temple
of
the
ancient
Egyptians
.
Twelve
leagues
from
Tuot
,
at
the
West
of
Nilus
,
is
Arment
,
heretofore
a
great
Town
,
but
now
forsaken
and
ruinated
.
They
call
it
in
Arabick
Beled
Muse
,
or
the
Country
of
Moses
,
because
the
Egyptians
believe
that
Moses
was
born
here
.
Here
is
under
ground
an
ancient
Temple
.
Two
leagues
on
this
side
of
Tuot
,
are
two
Villages
very
famous
;
namely
,
Luxor
,
and
Luxor
il
Kadim
,
or
the
old
Luxor
;
they
are
about
half
a
league
from
one
another
.
At
Luxor
is
to
be
seen
the
Remains
of
an
ancient
,
and
beautiful
Temple
of
the
Egyptians
,
in
which
are
threescore
and
eighteen
Pillars
of
a
prodigious
bigness
,
chiefly
fourteen
,
placed
in
rank
,
two
and
two
;
so
big
that
six
Men
can
scarce
embrace
them
,
but
they
are
but
six
Perches
high
.
The
bottom
of
this
Temple
is
yet
entire
;
here
are
several
Chambers
,
and
separations
,
whereof
the
Walls
are
full
,
from
the
top
to
the
bottom
,
of
Figures
roughly
drawn
,
and
Hieroglyphick
Letters
carved
over
.
Before
the
Door
stands
two
Needles
,
square
,
and
very
high
and
entire
;
so
fresh
that
one
would
think
that
the
Workman
hath
newly
finish'd
them
.
They
are
on
every
side
eight
foot
broad
.
Near
their
Basis
are
two
Statues
of
Women
,
of
black
Marble
;
and
though
they
be
half
under
ground
,
to
the
Girdle
,
they
stand
out
as
high
as
three
Men.
Their
bigness
is
answerable
to
their
height
;
for
there
is
twelve
foot
from
one
shoulder
to
another
.
They
have
a
strange
kind
of
covering
upon
their
heads
,
with
a
Globe
on
the
top
.
Their
Faces
are
disfigur'd
,
the
rest
is
whole
.
The
description
of
the
Frontispiece
of
this
Temple
,
is
with
the
other
Pictures
.
At
the
old
Luxor
is
a
very
ancient
Palace
.
Its
Ruines
shew
that
it
hath
been
very
glorious
.
They
say
,
that
here
dwelt
one
of
the
ancient
Kings
of
Egypt
.
In
the
Walks
of
this
Palace
are
to
be
seen
many
Sphinxes
,
in
ranks
,
on
both
sides
of
the
Alleys
,
two
foot
from
one
another
,
looking
upon
the
Alley
.
They
have
every
one
,
one
and
twenty
foot
in
length
.
This
Palace
hath
four
Walks
,
that
answer
to
four
Gates
.
In
the
first
are
one
hundred
and
twenty
Sphinxes
,
threescore
in
each
side
;
and
in
the
second
are
one
hundred
and
two
,
one
and
fifty
in
aside
.
Every
Walk
is
about
the
length
of
a
place
to
play
at
Mall
.
the
Gates
of
the
Palace
are
extraordinary
high
,
made
with
the
most
beautiful
Stones
in
the
World
;
one
of
the
sides
of
the
Gate
is
six
and
twenty
foot
high
.
(
I
find
in
another
Copy
of
this
Relation
,
that
it
hath
thirty
six
foot
.
)
The
Palace
is
so
defaced
,
that
there
is
no
order
,
nor
beauty
,
that
appears
;
nevertheless
there
are
so
many
curious
things
in
it
,
that
no
Man
in
a
Month
,
can
take
a
full
view
of
them
;
for
there
is
above
a
Million
of
Figures
,
roughly
drawn
;
some
are
covered
over
,
others
appear
with
an
open
face
.
Here
are
also
a
great
many
Pillars
;
I
counted
,
saith
the
Father
,
in
a
Parlour
threescore
,
which
are
all
so
great
,
that
five
Men
can
scarce
embrace
one
of
them
about
.
In
the
Court
of
the
Palace
is
a
Bason
garnished
about
with
beautiful
Stones
,
and
full
of
a
bitter
Water
,
which
,
as
the
People
say
,
whitens
Linen
very
well
.
I
tried
it
,
saith
the
Father
,
by
dipping
into
it
my
Handkerchief
,
which
kept
above
four
days
the
smell
of
Soap
.
At
one
Front
of
the
Palace
are
two
Statues
of
a
Giant
,
of
one
Stone
,
as
white
as
Alabaster
.
They
have
Swords
by
their
sides
.
In
the
middle
of
the
Palace
is
another
,
as
high
as
three
Men
,
not
well
pollish'd
,
but
well
proportioned
.
A
league
on
this
side
there
is
an
ancient
Town
,
called
Habu
,
where
are
to
be
seen
many
rarities
,
chiefly
Mommies
.
At
a
distance
one
may
there
discover
two
Statues
;
one
of
a
Man
,
the
other
of
a
Woman
.
The
Country
People
call
that
Sciama
,
and
this
Tama
,
They
seem
to
be
at
least
as
big
as
the
Abulhon
,
or
the
Sphinx
over
against
Cairo
.
Near
this
place
is
a
Village
,
where
is
to
be
seen
two
Statues
from
the
River
Nilus
,
so
new
that
one
would
think
the
Workman
had
just
perfected
them
.
Thirteen
leagues
on
this
side
of
the
old
Luxor
,
is
a
Town
named
Neggade
,
where
is
a
Bishop
with
about
seventy
Families
of
Christian
Copties
.
Here
is
yet
three
Monasteries
,
one
is
called
Deir
il
Salib
,
or
the
Monastery
of
the
holy
Cross
;
the
second
Deir
il
Megma
;
the
third
Deir
Mary
Poctor
;
but
these
two
last
are
not
inhabited
.
Two
miles
from
Neggade
,
on
the
East-side
of
Nilus
,
is
the
ancient
Town
of
Kus
;
but
here
are
but
threescore
Christian
Copties
,
who
have
here
a
Church
,
dedicated
to
S.
Stephen
.
Six
leagues
from
Neggade
,
on
this
side
,
is
Kenne
,
a
Village
scituate
on
the
Eastern
Bank
of
Nilus
.
It
is
a
Mart-Town
,
and
the
Rendezvous
of
the
Caravans
that
go
from
Cairo
to
Cosseir
,
heretofore
named
Berenice
,
four
days
Journies
from
this
Village
,
and
a
Haven
of
the
Red-Sea
.
The
Christians
that
live
at
Kenne
are
very
poor
,
and
without
any
Church
.
Two
leagues
on
this
side
of
Kenne
is
the
ancient
Town
of
Tentiris
,
now
called
Dendera
,
where
is
a
wonderful
Temple
of
the
ancient
Egyptians
,
of
a
prodigious
bigness
and
height
.
It
is
to
be
seen
at
two
leagues
distance
.
Macrizi
saith
,
that
it
hath
as
many
Windows
as
there
are
days
in
the
year
:
They
are
so
plac'd
,
that
every
one
answers
to
a
degree
of
the
Zodiack
;
so
that
the
Sun
rising
in
a
differing
degree
every
day
of
the
Zodiack
,
it
sends
in
its
Beams
into
a
distinct
Window
from
the
day
before
:
And
when
at
the
end
of
the
year
it
hath
finish'd
and
run
through
every
degree
of
the
Zodiack
,
it
hath
also
from
the
East
cast
in
its
Beams
into
every
Window
of
this
Temple
:
For
this
cause
it
is
look'd
upon
as
a
Wonder
in
Egypt
.
Ten
Leagues
on
this
side
of
Dendera
,
at
the
West
of
Nilus
,
is
Cassr
,
a
Village
where
is
an
old
Convent
,
dedicated
to
Amba
Balamon
:
Over
against
this
Village
is
the
ancient
Town
Hu
,
where
is
yet
a
Convent
dedicated
to
S.
Menna
,
but
there
was
then
no
Priest
.
Two
Leagues
on
this
side
of
Hu
,
on
the
same
Bank
is
Bahgiura
,
at
a
little
distance
from
the
River
:
Its
Port
is
called
Sahel
;
there
is
two
Convents
,
one
dedicated
to
S.
Bidabe
,
the
other
to
S.
George
.
At
two
Leagues
on
this
side
of
Bahgiura
,
on
the
same
Bank
,
is
the
Village
Beliene
,
where
is
a
very
beautiful
Church
under
ground
,
dedicated
to
the
Blessed
Virgin
.
Girge
,
the
chief
Town
of
the
Vpper
Egypt
,
stands
six
Leagues
from
Beliene
on
this
side
.
Here
ends
the
Relation
of
Father
Portais
.
I
could
wish
that
this
good
man
had
given
us
a
more
exact
account
,
and
more
at
large
of
the
Rarities
that
he
saw
in
these
places
,
for
this
Relation
is
superficial
.
The
14th
of
June
,
I
went
at
Cairo
to
see
the
Inchanted
watering
place
,
called
in
Arabick
,
Houd
il
merasset
,
which
is
under
the
Mosque
of
the
Palace
,
called
Kalet
it
Kebsch
,
no
Taveller
hath
over
spoken
of
it
.
It
is
a
black
Marble-stone
,
made
like
a
Watering
place
,
seven
foot
long
,
arising
out
of
the
ground
about
a
foot
and
a
half
:
The
sides
,
within
and
without
,
are
adorned
with
little
Hieroglyphick
Letters
,
as
well
as
the
Brims
.
The
people
of
Cairo
say
,
that
in
the
time
of
the
ancient
Egyptians
,
the
sick
people
did
recover
their
health
by
drinking
Water
out
of
it
;
and
that
by
the
virtue
of
a
Rassem
,
or
Charm
,
which
the
Priests
of
Egypt
had
given
to
it
.
The
20th
of
this
Month
I
went
to
see
the
wonderful
Well
which
is
in
the
Castle
,
commonly
named
Joseph's
Well
.
It
s
top
is
square
,
very
large
,
cut
in
the
Rock
;
it
is
about
one
hundred
and
twenty
Perches
deep
,
the
Perch
containing
six
foot
.
The
water
is
drawn
out
with
two
Wheels
,
the
one
plac'd
at
the
Mouth
of
the
Well
,
and
the
other
about
threescore
and
fifteen
Perches
underneath
.
There
are
two
Oxen
at
each
Wheel
to
turn
them
;
the
lowest
,
which
is
fifty
Perches
above
the
water
,
serves
to
draw
the
water
into
a
Bason
there
on
purpose
;
and
from
thence
,
the
upper
Wheel
draws
the
water
to
the
top
.
The
Beasts
that
work
there
,
go
up
and
down
very
commodiously
by
a
great
large
Path
,
which
receives
the
light
through
Windows
cut
on
that
side
which
looks
to
the
water
.
The
Arabian
Authors
call
it
Bi
r
haleizun
,
or
the
Snails
Well
,
because
there
is
a
Path-way
that
winds
round
about
.
The
people
commonly
say
,
that
it
was
digg'd
by
Spirits
;
I
am
almost
inclineable
to
believe
it
,
for
I
cannot
conceive
how
men
can
compass
so
wonderful
a
work
.
The
Waters
,
as
the
Guardian
told
me
,
come
out
of
the
firm
Rock
,
and
yet
increase
and
decrease
as
the
River
Nilus
:
But
I
have
heard
others
say
,
that
they
come
out
of
the
great
Aqueduct
which
is
in
old
Cairo
.
Because
I
could
not
understand
the
truth
of
it
,
I
wish
that
some
other
Traveller
would
inform
himself
better
.
They
that
think
that
Joseph
,
Jacob's
Son
,
caused
it
to
be
digged
,
are
deceived
,
for
the
Castle
of
Cairo
was
built
many
Ages
after
Joseph's
death
;
and
it
is
the
common
opinion
of
all
the
Arabian
Authors
,
that
Joseph
dwelt
at
Memphis
,
which
was
on
the
other
side
of
the
River
,
near
the
Pynamids
,
and
not
on
this
side
where
Cairo
stands
.
The
9th
of
this
Month
they
cryed
about
Town
Ouf
alla
,
that
the
River
was
risen
sixteen
Cubits
high
.
The
next
day
,
being
S.
Laurences
day
,
they
cut
through
the
Calitz
with
Ceremony
;
but
there
was
no
great
rejoycings
,
because
the
Pacha
had
observ'd
that
before
,
and
every
Pacha
performs
it
but
once
in
his
time
.
On
the
18th
of
the
same
Month
there
happen'd
a
mischance
to
a
French
Merchant
,
which
discovers
the
wonderful
jealousie
of
the
Turks
.
As
this
Merchant
was
taking
the
air
at
a
Window
of
his
house
in
the
Even
,
on
the
Calitz
side
,
a
Janissary
that
lived
over
against
him
,
thinking
that
he
made
signs
to
his
Women
and
Slaves
,
shot
off
a
Pistol
at
him
,
and
wounded
him
in
the
hand
.
The
French
Consul
could
never
obtain
from
the
Justice
of
Cairo
to
cause
this
Villain
to
be
punish'd
.
On
the
first
of
September
,
Monsieur
de
Bonnecorse
,
before
Consul
of
Seyda
,
succeeded
to
Monsieur
de
Tyger
,
before
Consul
at
Cairo
,
and
landed
at
Boulac
,
in
the
company
of
many
great
Merchants
,
upon
a
great
Bark
well
trim'd
,
with
a
Flag
of
the
Arms
of
France
on
the
Main
Mast
.
At
his
arrival
he
saluted
Boulac
with
five
little
Brass-Pieces
of
Canon
,
which
were
at
the
Stern
of
his
Ship
.
He
landed
not
at
the
Douane
,
for
the
Consuls
are
free
from
that
Visit
,
but
in
a
pleasant
house
upon
the
River
,
near
the
Douane
,
until
he
had
got
leave
from
the
Pacha
to
go
to
Cairo
.
As
soon
as
he
had
received
it
,
he
mounted
on
Horseback
without
more
ado
,
and
rode
into
the
City
,
with
all
the
Merchants
of
his
Nation
riding
on
Asses
.
The
Pacha
sent
none
to
bid
him
welcome
;
only
the
Venetian
Consul
sent
his
Servants
to
meet
him
,
and
his
Horse
.
The
same
day
,
one
of
those
Swimmers
,
whom
I
have
already
mentioned
,
swum
all
along
the
Calitz
,
according
to
the
Custom
.
On
the
seventh
of
the
Month
,
Ibrahim
Pacha
went
from
Cairo
in
Pomp.
On
the
29th
,
I
went
with
Monsieur
Bonnecorse
to
Adelia
,
a
Suburb
of
Cairo
,
on
the
North-East
side
,
where
are
the
Tombs
of
the
Kings
of
Egypt
,
to
see
the
coming
in
of
the
new
Pacha
.
It
is
not
amiss
to
mention
here
two
Customs
,
which
all
the
Pacha's
ought
to
observe
when
they
come
first
to
this
Government
,
and
when
they
leave
it
.
Every
Pacha
,
before
he
enters
into
Cairo
,
is
bound
to
visit
the
Tomb
of
Sciech
il
Sciafei
,
who
is
buried
in
the
Caraffe
,
for
he
is
the
Protector
of
the
Ottoman
Family
;
for
the
Turks
following
the
Doctrines
of
the
Mahometan
Religion
,
believe
that
he
is
able
to
obtain
for
them
from
their
Prophet
,
a
happy
and
peaceable
Government
:
And
when
they
depart
,
they
are
bound
to
render
the
same
respects
to
the
Tomb
of
Sultan
Cajed
Bey
,
though
an
Enemy
of
the
Ottoman
Race
,
and
one
of
the
last
lawful
Kings
of
Egypt
,
to
thank
him
,
because
he
had
suffered
his
Government
to
be
without
disorders
and
disgrace
.
These
two
Customs
are
so
Religiously
to
be
observed
by
the
Pacha's
that
the
people
of
Cairo
say
,
that
they
have
seen
some
that
have
neglected
or
contemned
them
,
to
have
been
suddenly
deposed
,
and
to
have
met
with
unhappiness
in
their
time
.
I
have
heard
say
,
that
when
Sultan
Selimus
had
overcome
the
Mamelucs
,
he
was
afraid
to
go
into
Cairo
,
to
take
possession
of
his
Conquest
,
till
Sciech
il
Sciafei
appeared
to
him
,
to
assure
him
,
that
he
need
not
fear
any
thing
.
And
that
the
next
day
when
he
made
his
Entry
,
an
unknown
person
led
his
Horse
by
the
Bridle
into
the
Town
,
and
then
vanish'd
away
.
When
I
had
continued
in
so
incommodious
a
City
,
as
Cairo
is
to
the
Francs
,
twenty
Months
,
the
fear
of
some
mishap
which
might
have
befallen
me
if
the
Turks
had
known
that
I
bought
up
their
Books
,
caused
me
to
think
upon
my
departure
;
and
to
secure
my self
,
I
imagin'd
Constantinople
to
be
the
most
fit
for
my
purpose
.
I
resolved
therefore
to
go
thither
:
I
left
Cairo
the
12th
of
October
,
1673.
to
sail
to
Rosetta
;
and
because
the
River
was
then
fullest
,
a
good
Wind
and
a
strong
Current
carried
us
thither
in
two
Nights
and
a
day
.
From
thence
,
I
went
aboard
the
same
day
in
a
Vessel
of
a
Greek
bound
for
Constantinople
.
I
landed
at
Chio
,
an
Island
of
the
Archipelague
,
the
25th
of
November
,
where
I
staid
two
Months
and
a
few
days
,
wondering
at
the
delightsomness
of
this
Island
,
and
at
the
Civility
of
the
Inhabitants
to
Strangers
:
I
went
to
visit
tho
famous
Monastery
of
the
Religious
Greeks
of
Neamoni
,
or
of
the
Blessed
and
Only
Virgin
:
I
saw
the
Library
,
and
all
the
other
Rarities
of
the
Island
.
From
thence
I
went
to
Smyrna
,
the
27th
of
January
,
1674.
where
I
arrived
the
second
of
February
,
and
staid
till
the
13th
of
March.
Then
I
went
aboard
with
Sir
John
Finch
,
the
King
of
Englands
Embassadour
of
Constantinople
,
where
I
arrived
the
24th
of
March
,
being
Holy
Saturday
.
The
24th
of
July
I
went
from
Constantinople
to
the
City
Brousse
,
called
by
the
Europeans
Bursia
,
the
chief
Town
of
Bythinia
,
and
the
ancient
Seat
of
the
Ottoman
Emperours
,
to
see
the
Hot
Baths
,
the
Tombs
,
and
the
stately
Mosques
of
these
Emperours
:
I
staid
there
about
eight
days
.
On
the
fourth
of
September
I
went
to
the
Isle
of
Chio
the
second
time
,
to
see
the
gathering
up
of
the
Mastick
,
a
sweet
Gum
,
which
begins
the
14th
of
this
Month
,
according
to
the
Greek
computation
;
and
the
28th
of
October
I
returned
to
Constantinople
.
On
the
second
of
January
,
1676.
the
day
that
I
was
to
depart
with
the
Caravan
to
Aleppo
,
that
I
might
return
the
third
time
to
Cairo
,
I
found
my self
oblig'd
to
go
back
for
France
;
and
because
there
was
then
no
French
Ships
in
that
Haven
bound
for
France
,
only
a
small
Bark
loaden
and
bound
for
Lisbon
,
which
was
gone
out
of
the
Haven
to
wait
for
a
good
wind
at
the
Islands
near
by
.
I
went
aboard
that
Vessel
,
with
an
intent
to
leave
her
at
the
first
Port
of
the
Archipelague
,
where
I
might
find
some
French
Vessel
bound
for
France
.
I
found
one
according
to
my
desire
;
for
a
furious
Storm
forced
us
to
run
into
Suda
,
in
the
Island
of
Candy
.
The
18th
of
this
Month
,
I
had
news
from
the
French
Consul
of
Canea
,
that
there
was
a
Vessel
of
Provence
ready
to
set
Sail
for
Thoulon
;
I
left
therefore
my
Bark
,
to
ride
to
Canea
,
in
the
company
of
many
Persons
on
Horseback
,
whom
the
Consul
sent
to
meet
me
.
The
24th
we
set
fail
for
Milo
,
where
we
arrived
the
26th
day
of
the
Month
:
There
we
stopt
eight
days
.
The
20th
of
February
we
landed
at
Genoa
,
where
we
staid
one
day
;
and
the
24th
of
this
Month
we
arrived
happily
at
Thoulon
,
and
the
22th
of
April
I
returned
to
Paris
,
after
five
full
years
Travelling
.