Voyages and travels over all Europe Containing all that is most curious in that part of the world. In eight tomes. Done out of French.

VOYAGES AND TRAVELS OVER ALL Europe . CONTAINING All that is most Curious in that Part of the WORLD . In Eight TOMES .

Done out of French .

LONDON , Printed for H. Rhodes next Bride-Lane in Fleetstreet , and J. Harris at the Harrow in the Poultry . 1693.

FRENCH F. H. van . Hove . Sculp :

Licensed ,

Jan. 20th . 1692-93 . Edm. Bohun .

TO THE READER .

'T Is a Custom among Travellers , that are Persons of Curiosity , that when they come to any City or Town of Note , one of the first Questions which they put to their Hosts is generally , what is most-remarkable in the Place . To this , Monsieur la Fer , Geographer to the Dauphin of France , makes a particular Answer , so far as concerns the most Considerable Cities and Towns of Europe , in Eight small Tomes of Historical Travels , successively intended to be presented to your View ; wherein he gives a neat and short Accompt of what is most worthy the Observation of a Quaint and Inquisitive Traveller in all the most Eminent Places of this the Most Noble fourth Part of the World . A pleasing Pocket Information for a Traveller , where e're he comes , to desire to see , and not to ask what is to be seen . He gives yee moreover , the true Character of the several People , by telling yee their Predominant Humours ; which is no less a useful Direction for him to manage his Conversation with that variety of Strangers among whom his Curiosity or his Business leads him .

These Historical Travels , will consist of Eight Volumes , of which the First as you see begins with France ; The Second will treat of Spain and Portugal ; The Third of Italy ; The Fourth of Germany , Switzerland and Hungary ; The Fifth of Muscovy , Turky and Tartary ; The Sixth will enclose Poland , Swedeland and Denmark ; The Seventh Holland and the Low-Countries ; And the Eighth will Comprehend England , Scotland and Ireland . Neither is it to be thought that these are Collections and Relations of the Author by hear-say ; for he tells yee that he had been Abroad in Forreign Countries about Twelve or Thirteen Years , and that all that while he made his Remarks upon the Religion , Customs , Humours and Strength of several Nations , and observ'd what was most rare and curious in their Countries : Confessing withal , that he took into his assistance the Memoirs of a certain Learned Friend of his , who had been Two and Twenty Years Collecting 'em together ; but liv'd not long enough to put 'em into Order .

About the same time came forth the King's Geographer , de la Croix's Universal Geographie , or his New Method for the Understanding that Science ; but besides that , there is little in it but what has been repeated over and over again , and that we had nothing to do with learning Geography ; I made a Vow , had I been a Novice , not to learn it by his New Method , which is the Obscurest that ever I met with ; in regard he has so conceal'd and hid up his Towns in References and Subdivisions of Provinces , that he that looks for any City , must run from Post to Pillar , and be at a tedious and unnecessary Trouble , prevented by the common Alphabetical Way , before he can find it out . However I made this Use of him , that where he had any thing Proper for our Vse , which la Ferr had for brevity omitted , I thought it but reason , that one Brother should help another ; and to that end , I took out all that was material in him and made for our Purpose . Which as it serves to Complete la Ferr , so it does de la Croix no Injury ; who may go on with his New Method for all us .

'T is to be confess'd , That out of a natural Propensity of the French to brag of their own Country , Monsieur la Ferr is sometimes too apt to fall into Extasies and Raptures in Applause of the Beauties and Prodigies of Transcending France , and the Conquests of his Invincible Monarch . But though we could not but leave some sprinklings of his Folly in some places , as well because we could not interrupt his Sence , as to shew the Nature of the French Bird , yet care has been taken to Prune off the greatest part of those Impertinencies , and to keep him as close as possible to his Text : For in short , the Thing in the main is Vseful and Pleasant , as being the most Delightful part of Geography , altogether a Novelty , and prosecuted with Judgment by the Author , to the great Benefit and Ease of those , who not having the Opportunity , or Bodies fitted to endure the Tempers of various Climates , are by this means enabled to Travel over whole Countries and Regions with their Eyes , and have all the Curiosities of Europe brought home to their own Studies , at the Labour and Expence of other Men.

ADVERTISEMENT .

YOu will meet with many Hard Names of French Courts and Jurisdictions in the following Relations , which many in England understand no more then the French understand our Cursitors , Custos Brevium's , Philizers , Sheriffs Turns , Wardmoots , &c. And therefore we thought it convenient to give a short Exposition of what the Reader will frequently find repeated in this first Volume .

BAilliage , is the Precinct , Office Jurisdiction of a Bailly . A Bailli , is a Magistrate appointed within a Province or certain Precinct , to execute Justice , maintain the Peace , and preserve the People from Oppression , Vexation , and Wrong . To which purpose , he takes Cognizance of Treasons committed , False Money Coin'd , of Robberies , Murthers , Rebellions , &c. He makes Proclamation in his own Name , calls the Ban and Arriere Ban ; and leads forth those that are rais'd by it . He also determines Appeals from the Sentences of the Provosts , and other Inferiour Judges . Chamber of Accompts , The Court of Accompts or of the Exchequer ; of which there is one in every Town of France where there is a Parlament . Chamber of Money , Chambre de Monnoyes is a Soveraign Court wherein the Currantness , Weight and Value of Money are examin'd , and the Disorders and Offences of Mintmen , Coyners , and Clippers punish'd . Which Court has two Presidents , and Eight general Assistants belonging to it . The Exchequer of Normandy , is an Assembly of High Justiciaries , wherein the Decrees , Orders , Commissions and Injunctions , awarded by Bailli's , Viscounts , &c. may be 〈◊〉 and avoided . A Chancery . By the Chanceries of Cities are meant the Perites Chanceleries , or the Chanceries of Parlaments , which are visited once a Year by the Masters of Requests in their Circuits assign'd them by the Grand Chancellor of France . Consular Jurisdiction ; The Consuls in the good Towns of France , are Five Honest and Substantial Citizens , who Determine all Cases of Debt not exceeding 400 Livres Tournois ( a Livre Tournois is Two Shillings English ) between Merchant and Merchant ; their Authority continues a Year , and the utmost Punishment they can inflict extends but to Imprisonment . Election , The Office and Circuit of an Eleu , who is a General Assessor of the Kings Aids and Subsidies , who rates and taxes the Villages and Parishes of the Election or Division wherein he resides . Generality , A Place for the General Receipt of the Finances , of which there are such a Number in France , as Rouen , Tholouse , Orleans , Limoges , &c. Jurats of Bourdeaux , are as the Eschevins or Sheriffs in other Cities . Mareschalship is the Office and Jurisdiction of a Marshal of France . The Lord Marshals of France in the time of Francis I. were but two , who having their several Provinces assign'd 'em by the King , rode their Circuits into 'em , and were present at all General Musters , to observe how Military Discipline was observ'd ; to View the Fortifications and Reparations of Frontier Towns ; How the Arsenals were stor'd with Ammunition and Provisions ; and lastly , to provide for the Punishment of Idle , Vagrant and loose Persons . But now their Number is uncertain ; the Marshal's Battoon of Command being given as the Reward of Prowess and Conduct . Presidial Seats ; are Courts of Justice Establish'd in the Year 1551. in divers good Towns of France , wherein Civil Causes not exceeding 250 Livres Tournois are heard and adjudg'd Soveraignly and without Appeals . Seneschalship , the Jurisdiction of a Seneschal , who is a Chief Justice or Magistrate of a Precinct , who has the same Authority which is enjoy'd by a Bailli , from whom he differs only in Name .

Historical Voyages & Travels OVER EUROPE .

CHAP. I. Of Europe in general .

THE World is usually divided into four Parts ; that is to say , Asia , Africa , America and Europe . This last is the smallest of all ; but without contradiction the most considerable , in regard it is most Populous , most Fertile , and under the most noble and best order'd Forms of Government . The Bounds of it to the North , are the Northern , or the Frozen Sea ; to the West the Atlantick Ocean ; the Mediterranean , to the South , which separates it from Africa ; and to the East , the Aegean Sea , the Streight of Gallipoli , the Sea of Marmara , the Streight of Constantinople , the Black Sea , the Palus Maeotis , the Tanais , &c. which part it from Asia .

The Length of it from Cape St. Vincents in the Western part of Spain , to the mouth of the River Ob , in the Frontiers of Muscovy , is about thirteen hundred Leagues .

Moreover there are always said to be in Europe , besides the Territories of the Church in Italy , two Empires , that of Germany , and that of Turky ; seven Kingdoms under different Soveraigns who acknowledge no Superior ; France , Spain , England , Portugal , Sweden , Denmark and Poland . The first six Hereditary , the latter Elective . There are now nine Electorates , Mayence , Treves , Cologne , Bohemia , Bavaria , Saxony , Brandenburgh , the Palatinate , and Hanover ; which are all Soveraign States under the Titles of Dukedoms , Marquisates , &c. We have also in Europe two Great Dukedomes , Muscovy and Tuscany . Six other Dukedoms , besides those which are enclos'd within the Empire ; viz. Lorrain , Savoy , Mantoua , Modena , Parma and Curland . Seven Republicks ; viz. The United Provinces , otherwise call'd Holland , Switzerland , Venice , Genoa , Luca , St. Marin , and Ragusa . And besides all this there is the Arch-Dukedom of Austria , the Patrimony of the Empire , who also possesses Bohemia and Hungary . As for the Principalities of Transylvania , Moldavia , and Walachia , they are possess'd by particular Princes who are tributary either to the Emperor or the Grand Signior , and sometimes to both together .

The Principal Islands of Europe are England united to Scotland , Ireland , Majorca , Minorca , Sicily , Sardignia , Corfu , Creet , and an infinite number of others in the Archipelago . And the Highest Mountains are in France , the Pyreneans and the Alpes ; La Sierra Morena in Spain ; the Apennine in Italy ; Parnassus in Greece ; the Crapack in Poland ; the Rhipheans in Muscovy ; and Mont Gibel in Sicily .

This part of the World is water'd with an infinite number of fair Streams and vast Rivers , which contribute not a little to the Fertility of it . The most considerable are the Seine , the Loire , the Garonne , the Rhone in France ; the Duero , the Tagus , the Guadiana , the Guadalquivir , the Ebro in Spain ; the Po and Tibur in Italy ; the Danaw , the Rhine , the Elbe , the Order in Germany ; the Vistula and Niepor in Poland ; the Volga , and Don , in Muscovy ; the Thames , Severn and Trent in England , the Tay in Scotland , and the Shanon in Ireland .

CHAP. II. Of France in general .

FRance is to Europe , as Europe is to all the other parts of the World , for number of Inhabitants , for the Ingenuity of the People , the Fertility of the Soil , the Temper of the Climate , and the Excellency of the Wine . The Government is Monarchical , but too severely Absolute , tho the Nobility are brave and Warlike . This Kingdom is seated between the forty second and fifty first degree of Latitude , and the fifteenth and nineteenth of Longitude . It is bounded to the West by the Great Ocean ; to the East , by the Rhine and the Alpes , that separate it from Germany and Italy ; to the South , by the Mediterranean Sea , and the Pyreneans that divide it from Spain ; and to the North by St. Georges-Channel , which the French call La Manche , that parts it from England . But these Bounds have not hinder'd the Kings from frequently extending their Dominions beyond these Limits , and without searching past Ages for Examples , no body can be ignorant that in our days neither the Rhine , the Alpes , nor the Pyreneans could stop the Rapidness of the Conquests of Lewis the XIV .

France is about two hundred and sixty Leagues in length , if we take it from the Coasts of Britany , to the Frontiers of Switzerland , and two hundred and forty in breadth from Dunkirk ro Perpignan

The Kingdom is compos'd of Three Estates , the Clergy , the Nobility and the People . In 1614. the States General of the Kingdom being summon'd to meet at Paris , appear'd there under Twelve great Governments ; which are Picardy , Normandy , Champagne , the Island of France , Britany , Orleanois , Burgogne , Lionois , the Dauphinate , Provence , Languedoc and Guienne ; and under these Governments are comprehended Le Maine , Anjou , Tourain , Poictou Xaintoin , Perigort , Limozin , Querci , Rovergne , Auvergne , Gevodan , Albigeois , Bearne , Bigorre , Foix , Cominges , Armagnac , Vivarez , Le Forest , Beaugelois , Bugeay , Valcomay , La Bresse , Nivernois , Bourbonnois , Berri , Salogne , Gatinois , Beauce , &c.

All this shews us that France must needs be a very Potent Kingdom , since it includes so great a number of Fair Provinces ; some of which contain more Cities , Burroughs and Villages then many Soveraign Kingdoms and Principalities . But if you add to these the Conquests of Lewis the XIII and XIV , you will find the Limits of this Kingdom to be of a much larger Extent , since those two Monarchs subdu'd Franche Contè , Lorraine , Alsatia , Artois , part of Flanders , Hainault , Luxemburgh , &c.

France , which was known to the Ancients under the name of Gaul , is a Hereditary Kingdom , the Crown of which cannot descend to the Female Sex , by vertue of the Salique Law . It always belongs to the Eldest Son and for want of Male Issue to the next of Kin. France has beheld upon the Throne Kings of three Races . The first was that of Meroveus ; the second , that of Charlemaigne ; and the third that of Hugh Capet . Pharamond was the first King of France : He began to Reign in the year 400 of our Salvation ; and Clovis who was the Fifth King of this Monarchy , was the first who embrac'd Christianity in 499 being baptiz'd by St. Remi , Bishop of Rheims ; and ever since that time it was that our Kings have born the Title of Most Christian King , and Eldest Son of the Church which no other Potentate disputes with 'em .

As to the Humour of the French , they are lookt upon to have a quick and penetrating Wit , to be civil , jolly , and generous , but the most inconstant and most impatient in Europe .

There are reckon'd to be in France Eight Arch-Bishopricks , which have under their Jurisdiction a hundred and eleven Bishopricks ; that is to say , as far as I can remember , Paris , Lim , Rouen-Tours , Reims , Sens , Cambray , Bourges , Bourdeaux , Auch , Vienne , Ambrun , Toulouse , Narbonne , Aix , Arles , Avignon , and Treves , which have under 'em a hundred twenty five Suffragans . Fourteen Parliaments or Soveraign Courts ; viz. Paris , Toulouse , Grenoble , Bourdeaux , Dijon , Rouen , Aix , Rennes , Pau , Metz , Tournay , Perpignan , Besanson and Chamberi .

Besides an infinite number of Colledges , with which all the Cities of France are provided for the Education of Youth , there are sixteen famous Universities ; viz ▪ that of Paris , Toulouse , Montpellier , Orleans , Angers , Poictiers , Caen , Bourdeaux , Bourges , Cahors , Nantes , Rheims , Valence , Aix , Avignon and Orange .

This is all I have to say of France in general : I now come to the Remarks which I have made in my Travels , beginning with Provence , which is one of the Extream parts of the Kingdom .

CHAP. III. Of Provence .

GEographers usually divide this Province into the Upper and Lower Provence : The Upper is very Mountainous and Barren : But to recompence compence that defect , the Lower may be lookt upon as a Terrestrial Paradise . And did not Sacred History inform us of the Rivers Phison , Gehon , and Euphrates , that environ'd the Garden of Eden , which God gave to our First Parent Adam , we might have just reason to believe that the Paradise of all Delights was in Lower Provence . The Air is so mild and temperate , and the Soil so fertile , that it produces Corn in abundance , Wine , Oyl , Silk , together with great variety of Excellent Fruits ; and in the depth of Winter , you may without any trouble find Oranges , Jelsomines , Roses and Violets in Flower .

The Provencials are generally accounted a more rude and clownish sort of People then they who inhabit the Neighbouring Provinces . Perhaps their nearness to the Sea , and the resort of all sorts of Nations that come thither for the sake of Trade , may not a little contribute to it . But the Women are merry and jocund , and have excellent Voices .

Aix is the Capital City of the Province , large and fair ; the Houses are built after the Modern Fashion , and those that stand next the Court are like so many Palaces . It is the Seat of the Parliament of Provence , and of an Arch-Bishoprick , a Chamber of Accounts , a Court of Aids , a Mint , and a Generality . There is also in it an University for Law and Physick , founded by H. the IV. The Churches are very beautiful , and the Curious fail not to examin the Font of Baptism in that of St. Saviour , supported by eight Marble Columns , upon which 't is said that in Old Time they sacrific'd to Baal . In the Church of the Carmelites is to be seen the Sepulchre of Renatus , King of Jerusalem .

Some Leagues from Aix stands a Burrough call'd Sallon , where Nostre Damus , so famous for his Predictions , was born , and interr'd in the Church of the Franciscan Grey-Fryers ; his Tomb being half within the Church , and half without : Which has given an occasion for some people to say , that it was so contriv'd , because it was not known whether he were a Prophet or a Conjurer : But the Monk that shew'd it us , told us , that Nostre Damus himself had order'd it to be erected after that manner : For that finding the World to be so corrupt as it is , he was desirous to leave it in a singular manner . For that having rais'd his Tomb to Man's height , he caus'd himself to be enclos'd therein while he was living , after he had made provision of Oyl for his Lamp , Pens , Ink and Paper , and pronounc'd a Curse upon him that should open it before such a time ; which by the Calculation of the Fryer , was to expire at the beginning of the eighteenth Age.

And upon my saying to the Fryer , that by the Epitaph which appear'd upon his Tomb , it did not appear that he was enterr'd alive , but that he di'd the first of July 1566. in the 62th year of his Age ; the Monk repli'd , that from that day he was dead to the World , and that in engraving the Epitaph , they had follow'd his directions ; all which was to be justifi'd by the Registers of the Convent ; and that he would have part of his Tomb to be in the Street , to let the World know the remaining part of Human Life , which perhaps he employ'd in pious works . For my part , I had much ado to believe the Monk , but that the respect which is owing to his Character perswaded me that he would not suffer an Impostor to escape his Lips . However it were , I cannot tell whether honest Nostre Damus repented or no , but I am sure he was in an ill condition , if he let his Lamp go out , before he had finish'd what he had to write .

Beaucaire is a City seated upon the Banks of the Rhone , famous for the Fair which is there held the 22d of July , which draws to it all the Nations of Europe , and Immense Wealth .

On the other side of the River is to be seen the City of Tarascon , where Renatus King of Jerusalem and Sicily built a very fair Castle . Some years ago a certain person digging a Vault in his Cellar , found a Wall with an Iron Gate , which he caus'd to be open'd , and then discover'd a hollow passage , from whence he heard a most dreadful Noise , so terrible indeed , that he durst not satisfie his Curiosity any farther . However , the Magistrates of the City being inform'd of it , were resolv'd to know what it was . To which purpose they proffer'd a condemn'd person his Life , if he would but go and take a view of that Subterraneal Gallery .

This man being fortifi'd with every thing which he thought necessary to infuse a confidence into him , enter'd in . But before he got five and twenty or thirty paces , he return'd like a man hard out of his senses , crying out , That they might hang him if they pleas'd , for he would not die a Death which he did not understand . He told 'em he heard a most dreadful Noise , which grew louder and louder the farther he went . After they had given him time till the next day to recover himself , they offer'd him new favours , and some Money if he would go to the End of the Gallery . That allurement made him resolve to scorn all dangers , and having recover'd fresh strength , he went to the Bottom , where he found another Iron Gate , at which he knockt , as he said , but no body answer'd ; he added also , that the roaring Noise continu'd for half the way , and seem'd to be over his Head .

This Rehearsal augmented the Curiosity of the Magistrates of Tarascon , and oblig'd 'em to send Work-men to force open the Gate ; but unwillingness or fears over-mastering their Obedience and Duty , there were none resolute enough to be found : for they lookt upon the last Gate to be certainly the Gate which led to Hell . However , the Magistrates found an Expedient to gain their good wills , perswading 'em that there was some vast Treasure hid there , and that if they found it to be really so , they would give 'em the twenty fifth part of it . Upon that , they found Work-men more than enow , and the Gate being soon open'd , they as soon discover'd that the hollow way led to Beaucaire , that it was a Subterranean Communication between one City and the other , and that the Noise was nothing but the Rapidness of the Rhone , which rolling the Stones along with it , caus'd that hideous rumbling in the Vault . Since which time , 't is a common saying among the Bricklayers of Tarascon , That the Twenty fifth part of Beaucaire belongs to them .

Arles , formerly the Capital of a Kingdom , is seated also upon the Banks of the Rhone , drawing towards the Sea . People say , the Air is not so wholesom there , and that there is a passage from thence under Ground to Nimes , but I could never find any certainty in that report . There are to be seen in this City two Porticoes of an admirable Structure , an Amphitheater and an Obelisque , built by the Romans , and the Sepulchre of Rowland , Nephew to Charlemaine . There is also in the Town-house a Marble Statue of Diana , which Goddess had formerly a Temple in an Island of the Rhone a little below the City . Travellers that delight in viewing Ancient Tombs , may find a great number near Arles . For 't is said , that the Pagans call'd these parts the Elysian Fields , and that they who inhabited along the River from Arles to Lyons , desirous that their Bodies should be there buri'd , they ty'd 'em to Planks , with Money sufficient for their Enterment , and put 'em into the Water , verily believing that the Stream would carry 'em to the Elysian Fields , without going any farther .

They also shew'd me the house where Eight Children , all Twins were born at one Birth , which the Mother would needs have thrown into the River all but the Ninth . And they farther told me , 't was through the Judgment of God that this Woman had so many Children at a time , because she had tax'd a Beggar-woman of unchastness for having Three at one Delivery , who thereupon wisht , if she were not a Whore , that her Accuser might have as many as a Sow barrows Piggs at once . Let the Story be true or false , certain it is , that 't is not only in these parts where such Prodigies are pretended to have happen'd ; for I have seen in Holland the Castle of a Lady , who is reported to have been brought to Bed at one time of as many Children as there are days in the year . St. Maximin is a little City in the Neighbourhood of Aix , remarkable for the Holy Vial , which is there kept , and which draws Pilgrims to it from all parts of Europe . They pretend that in this Holy Vial there is the Blood and Water which issued from our Saviour's side , which by a Miracle , moves every Good Friday from Eleven a Clock till high Noon .

In the year 1679. I was there upon the same day , and what I happen'd to observe was this . They carri'd us up into a Gallery guarded by six Halberdeers , as well to prevent disorder as for the security of their pretious Relique . In the midst of the Gallery in a kind of by-corner we found a Jacobin Frier holding the sacred Vial in his hand ; Which is a Vial much in the Form of our Hour Glasses of Sand , in which you may perceive a Liquor as clear as Rock-water , with a little black Moat that danced up and down in the Viol , and which sometimes inclining to fall down to the Bottom , sometimes mounted up all of a sudden to the Top.

This Devotion draws great Profit to the Convent ; So that the Inhabitants of the place would never care how often the Miracle happen'd . There is also in the same Church the Head of Mary Magdalen in a Golden Shrine , and her Body in another .

From thence we mounted for four Hours together , that we might get to St. Baume , through a dreadful Desert . In this place they say it was , that Mary Magdalen did Pennance , and there is to be seen in a Grotto where the Rock-water distills from all parts , one little place dry , which was the Place where Magdalen lay . There is in this Nook a small Convent of Jacobins , with one only Inn belonging to it , where were above four thousand Persons in all , very ill accommodated . The next day we ascended above the Clouds ; at least when we were at St. Piton , we saw the Clouds thicken and gather together under us . This is the Place , as the Tradition goes , where the Angels brought Penitent Magdalen her Victuals . Afterwards we travell'd through a continual Desert to Toulton ; For we went above eight Leagues before we met with one House , or a drop of Water to drink .

Toulton is a very fair City seated upon the shoar of the Mediterranean Sea : It has a good Haven , where the Kings biggest Men of War ride secure from the injuries of the Weather or the Attempts of an Enemy . Henry IV. fortifi'd it with Walls , for the security of the Port and the Arsenal , which is the chiefest the French have upon that Sea .

Marseilles is another Sea Port , which is held to be the safest in all Europe . The City is very antient ; as having been built six hundred thirty three years before the Birth of Christ : and 't is the usual place where the Kings Galleys , which are very numerous , ride . This Haven is defended by the Fortress of our Lady of the Guard ; by two Citadels at the entrance into the Port , which is barr'd up with a huge chain ; and there are there Forts in the little Islands a league from the City which secure the Road. They are call'd the Fort of St. John , Le Rattoneau , and the Castle Dif , furnish'd with good Garrisons , and with all things necessary for their Defence . This last Castle is remarkable for this , that 't is the Place where they shut up Youths of Good Houses , that vex their Superiors by their Exorbitant Debaucheries and Leud behaviour ; and where they are kept so long as is thought convenient with a moderate allowance .

The City it self is very Beautiful and without all contradiction the most wealthy in the Province , by reason of the Haven , by which means it has all the Trade of the Levant , Italy , Spain and Africa to it self . The Cathedral is dedicated to St. Lazarus , in memory of this , that the Persecutors of the Primitive Church , having put Lazarus together with Mary Magdalen and Martha his Sisters , into a Vessel without Sails and Seamen , and exposing it in that manner to the Merciless Waves , the Vessel after it had been toss'd to and fro for some time by the raging Billows , was by Providence guided into the Port of Marseilles , where Lazarus having preach'd the Gospel was made Bishop of the place , and di'd there .

The Slaves at Marseilles , all the length of the Port , keep Barbers Shops and Fripperies , like those upon Pont Neuf at Paris , where they sell all manner of Linnen Cloaths , Breeches , and other necessary Furniture at second Hand . They who have this leave , are chain'd there in the Morning , and know what they must give a day to their Officers . There are others that make up together Companies of Fidlers , noises of Trumpets , Hautboys and other Instruments , who being all chain'd together and attended by a Souldier , go about from Tavern to Tavern , and House to House , to play to those that will give 'em any thing .

There is in the Convent of the Observance , the Head of one called Borduni , the son of a Notary Publick of Marseilles which is of a Prodigious bigness . For , tho the Man , who liv'd at the beginning of this Age , were not above four foot high , his Head takes up the fourth part of that heighth , and three foot in compass at the sides . He had so little wit , tho his Head were full of Brains , that he gave occasion to the Proverb , when you would talk of a Man that wanted sence , He has no more wit then Borduni .

When you go out of the City , it looks as if you were entring into Suburbs that are near two Leagues in extent . For that in the parts adjoining to Marseilles , there are above six thousand Country Houses , which the Provensals call Bastades , and which stand so near one to another , that many times there is hardly a Garden between 'em . This is a very great Ornament to the out parts of the City , and of great Benefit , when the Town is afflicted with the Pestilence ; there being few of the Burgesses but who have one of those Bastades : for they are still in fear lest some Vessel or other should bring that spreading Contagion among 'em . Which is the reason that they are to observe an exact Quarantan under the Cannon of the Castle Dif , and those other Fortresses which I have mention'd .

They are excellent Artists at Marseilles for working in Corral , and you meet there with that which is extraordinary for the whiteness of it .

CHAP. IV. Of the County of Venaissin , and the Principality of Orange .

THE County of Venaissin is a little Province enclos'd between Provence and the Dauphinate , the Capital City of which is Avignon , which is seated upon the Banks of the Rhone , surrounded with the most Beautiful Walls in Europe . It has been frequently the residence of the Roman Pontiffs , and that suffices to convince the Reader that it must needs be stor'd with beautiful Edifices both Sacred and Prophane . The Popes are also still in possession of it to this day , and send a Legate thither ; and it was thus that the Holy See came to have a Title to it .

Pope Clement the sixth , taking advantage of the necessity to which the Princess Joane , Daughter of Charles II. Count of Provence , to whom Avignon with all dependencies belong'd , had reduc'd her self , purchas'd this City of her for forty eight Thousand Livres , Money of France . The Contract of Sale was passed the 19th of June 1348. and History reports that the Money was never paid . However it were , the Princess was a Minor at the time of the Sale , and besides that , she could not alienate her Demeans , there being Laws that expresly ordain'd the contrary . So that this Sale was indeed no more than a Mortgage . Thereupon the Parliament of Provence reunited the City of Avignon , and the whole County of Venaissin to the Crown . Which shews that the Holy See enjoys it onely by the liberality of the Kings of France ; neither is this the onely nor the most considerable benefit which Rome has receiv'd from the French Crown .

There is a Jewish Synagogue at Avignon very nasty and out of Order ; and though they are bound to hear a Frier Preach every week ; they are so obstinate in their Judaism , that there are very few that embrace Christianity . They all wear yellow Hats , to distinguish 'em from Christians .

Avignon had formerly a stately Bridge over the Rhone , but the rapidness of the Stream has carried away a good part of it . The Pope keeps an Italian Garrison in it , and they keep a Guard as exact there as in the expos'd Frontier Towns in Time of War . They are not contented to examine all strangers that come into the Town , to know where they lodge , and to direct people that are not acquainted with the Town what Inns to go to , but in the Night time they visit all those parts where the new comers lodge , and tell how many persons lye in every Bed , which sometimes surprizes those that are ignorant of the Custom .

The University of Avignon , founded in 1391. was formerly more famous then now it is . I shall not undertake to describe all the Tombs and Reliques that are to be seen in most parts of the Churches ; which would carry me too far . Nor have I seen any thing there more remarkable then the Fountain of Daucluse , which dividing it self about ten or twelve paces from the source of it , forms a most delightful Island and a Navigable River . There , are also to be seen the Houses of Petrach and Laura his Mistress .

Orange is the Capital of a little Province of the same name , not above three Leagues broad and four in length . This Principality depending upon the County of Provence , fell long since to the Counts of Nassau , by the Marriage of Claudia de Chalons with Henry of Nassau .

This City had not long since a Castle belonging to it , which was lookt upon to be one of the strongest Castles in France : it had a Well digg'd into the solid Rock above thirty fathom deep , and a subterranean passage that led from the Castle to a House of Pleasure about half a league distant . But the Castle was raz'd and the City dismantl'd about twenty years since by the King of France , out of a particular enmity to the Prince of Orange under pretence that it serv'd as a Refuge for the Protestants that were Dragoon'd out of France .

However it affords very beautiful Pieces of Antiquity , and among the rest the Circus which is very spacious , with a Pavement of Mosaick work in a low Chamber or Room of State ; a Triumphal Arch Erected in Honour of Marius and Lacturius , Consuls of Rome after the Victory which they obtain'd over the Cimbrians and Teutons . This edifice which is commonly call'd the Tower of the Arch , was formerly in the middle of the City : afterwards it came to be one of the Gates of the City ; but now stands a good quarter of a League from it . Which shews that Orange was in ancient Time a very large and beautiful City . When you are at the top of this Tower , you may see all at once five Provinces of France , Provence , the Dauphinate , Languedoc , Auvergne and Forest .

CHAP. V. Of the Dauphinate and Vivarez .

THE Dauphinate is one of the most beautiful Provinces of France : Historians speak wonders of it ; and as such , they observe seven things extreamly remarkable , which they call the seven Wonders of the Dauphinate ; that is to say , the Tower without Poison , the Inaccessible Mountain , the Burning Fountain , the Caves of Sassenage ; the pretious Stones of the Mountain of Sassenage . The Manna of Brianson , and the Grove of our Lady de la Balme .

'T is commonly divided into the Upper and Lower , and is bounded eastward by Piemont and Savoy ; to the South by Provence ; northward by la Bress , and to the west by the County of Venaissin . The sterility of the Mountains of the Upper Dauphinate is not so bad , but that they afford great quantities of Cassia , Manna , Turpentine and Agaric . But the Lower Dauphinate bestows in a bundance upon the Inhabitants Wine , Corn , Silk and all sorts of Fruit. The People in general are stout , civil and courteous to Strangers : which Civility extends even to the most rustical Peasants : for it is a common thing to see a Ploughman leave his Plough to put a Stranger in the right Road , when he has lost his way .

Historians have always character'd the Dauphinois to be faithful to their King ; jealous of their Liberty ; somewhat given to litigious petty-fogging , and inclin'd to praise themselves . Nevertheless , the learned Mr. Richelet has not done 'em all this justice in his Dictionary ; perhaps because he would make the Province suffer for the injury which some Dauphinois might have done him .

This Province is not so much celebrated by all those Advantages which I have recounted , as for the Honour which it has of being the Title born by the Eldest Son of France and presumptive Heir of the Crown . They who know not why the Dauphinate enjoys this Honour before any of the Provinces of France , may here be inform'd in few words .

Hubert II. Soveraign Prince of the Dauphinate , having but one only Son , at that time very young , and being at his Castle of Vienne , took him in his Arms to play with him , and making a shew as if he would throw him out of the Window , the Infant being a brisk lively child , slipt out of his Hands and fell into the Rhone ; nor did the unfortunate Father ever hear more of him . His Grief was such as is not to be imagin'd : and his despair transported him so far as to make a Donation of the Dauphinate to Philip Valois King of France , in the year 1349. upon condition , among other things , that the First born Son of the Kings of France , for the time to come should be call'd Dauphins .

Grenoble is the Capital City of the Province , seated among the Mountains upon the Banks of the River Isere , which divides the City into two parts . It is the Seat of a Parliament , a Chamber of Accounts , or place for the publick Receipt of the Finances , a Generality , a Baillage , a Mint , and a Bishoprick . It is adorn'd with Magnificent Buildings , of which the principal are the Palace of the Duke de L'Ediguieres , the Bishops Mansion , and the Parlament House . The Prelates of this Diocess assume the Title of Prince , by reason of several Donations of the Lords of the Country at several times .

There are some things in the Parts about Grenoble , worthy the curious observation of Travellers ; chiefly the spatious Charter-house , which is usually the Residence of the General of that Order . Never was Desert better baptiz'd then this Nook which those Monks have made choice of for their place of Retirement : for indeed the Mountain has something of a dreadful Aspect . But when you come to the Convent , you are presently surpriz'd to meet with so goodly a Mansion , so magnificent a Church , and Monks so civil and courteous , where you thought to find nothing but Precipices and Wild Beasts .

The Order of the Chartreux was founded in 1084 by St. Bruno , who was the first General of it . The Air is very healthy , the top of the Mountain Fertile ; and in a word it may be said , that a Man is amply recompens'd for the trouble and dread in clambring up , which redoubles when you are about to quit that delightful solitude ; the descent being worse then the ascent , and much more terrible .

Among the wonders that environ Grenoble , the burning Fountain is not the least considerable , which darts forth Flames through the Water a foot high ; whither the young Men and Virgins go frequently to make Fricassees , and fry Pancakes . Not far from thence is to be seen a Tower where no venomous Creature will live ; and they which are sometimes brought thither dye presently after .

Valence is the second City of the Dauphinate , and much better scituated then Grenoble , as being seated on the Banks of the Rhone , and upon the High Road from Paris to Marseilles . It is adorn'd with a Bishoprick , and a University for Law and Physick ; founded by Lewis the Dauphin , Son of Charles VII . in the year 1452. who confirm'd the Priviledges it enjoys , in the year 1475. when he came to the Crown . It is also the Seat of a Presidial-court and a Seneschalship .

There is to be seen in the Church of the Jacobins the Body of a Giant fifteen foot high , and seven in breadth , some of the Bones of which were carri'd to Paris where they are preserv'd in the Kings Closet . There is a Fountain without the City very hot in the Winter , and extreamly cold in the Summer . The principal Churches are the Cathedral dedicated to St. Apollinaris ; St. Johns which is said to have been a Pantheon in ancient time , the Abby of St. Ruff , and St. Peters Church in the Burrough Les-valence , in which is to be seen a Cavern which 't is said crosses under the Rhone , near to which stands a Sepulchre , wherein formerly was found the Body of a Woman cover'd with Gold and Precious Stones , which appear'd to be fresh , but so soon as it was brought into the Air , crumbl'd to dust . There was also found in the same Tomb a Latin Inscription in these words , The Happy Justina Mother ; whence some infer , that it was the Empress Justina's Tomb. Near St. Felix's Gate there is also a Round Tower which leans forward more at the top then below ; and most people believe that the Tower bow'd out of respect when St. Felix enter'd the City .

Pont St. Esprit , or The Holy Ghost's Bridge , is a very pleasant City that derives its name from a Bridge built over the Rhone with extraordinary labour and expence . It consists of two and twenty Arches twelve hundred Fathom long , and fifteen broad ; so that it may not be vainly lookt upon to be one of the largest and most beautiful Bridges in France .

The Dauphinate includes several other Cities which have their particular Ornaments and Beauties , as Montelimar , Cret , Die , Gap , Ambrun and Vienne , which is the first City you meet with , as you enter into the Dauphinate through Lionnois . It was formerly inhabited by the Allobroges ; at what time Le Viennois was call'd the Island of the Allobroges as being scituated between the Rhone and the Isere .

At Vienne they make the Blades of Swords in such vast numbers , that 't is the wonder of all people , how the Artificers can sell 'em so cheap . But the reason is , because their Engins are so dispos'd as to be mov'd by the Water , and that in such a manner , that one workman can attend several sorts of Workmanship at one time Pilate was banish'd to Vienne by the Emperor Tiberius ; There is also to be seen the Tower where he was kept a Prisoner ; and the Precipice from whence he threw himself Headlong , which is always cover'd with Clouds and Mists . Vienne had formerly two Castles belongit to it which were accounted impregnable ; but they were demolish'd , for fear they might prove a Recepticle for such as had a design to disturb the State .

Die , or Diva Augusta , seated upon the Drome among the Mountains , with a Bishoprick , suffragan to the Archbishop of Vienne . It was one of the nineteen principal Cities of the antient Vocantis mention'd by Tacitus , and once a Colony of the Romans .

Gap lyes two leagues from Durance with a Baileage , a Bishoprick , a strong Cittadel , and the Fort of Puymore . But neither the Cittadel nor the Fort could hinder it from being ruin'd by the Duke of Savoys Army in the year 1692.

Ambrun is a Bishops See , and lyes among the Mountains at the Foot of a Rock upon which stands a Castle . This City is said to stand the highest of any City of Europe . It is a Town of great antiquity ; and 't is said that Nero granted the Citizens of it the right of Latinity , which Galba afterwards enlarg'd with new Priviledges . In the year 1692. it was taken by the Duke of Savoy , but quitted the same year , after every thing was demolish'd that render'd it Tenable .

Before I leave the Dauphinate , it behoves me to make one Observation not unacceptable to the Curious , of a peculiar Wind that blows at Nyons , six leagues from Orange . It is call'd the Wind Pontius , from the name of the Mountain whence it comes . Nyons is seated in a Bottom , upon the bank of a River call'd Egue , where there is a Bridge with one only Arch , accounted the most beautiful in the World . It is said to be a Piece of Roman workmanship , round like the Letter O , and to be as deep from the Foundation under Ground as above . And indeed , altho it be of a Prodigious heighth , yet there appears but the half of the Circle above Ground . And I have heard the People of the place aver , that when they have gone to search for the Foundation , they could never find any . But they perceiv'd , that still the lower they digg'd , the narrower the circle contracted .

As to the Wind of Pontius , it usually blows from Midnight till ten or eleven a Clock in the Morning , and it is almost as cold as the North-wind . It issues out of the Cleft of a Rock , about a small League from Nyons near a Hermitage . Into this cleft the people have often thrown Stones , and let down a Sounding Line , but could never reach the Bottom . Nor is the Wind so violent in this part , as about a quarter of a League from thence . Now in regard the cleft is not very wide , it was stopt up toward the end of the last Age , and so it remain'd for seven or eight years ; but then they were forc'd to open it again , in regard the Earth surceas'd to bear , the Olive Trees , Vines , and other Fruit Trees wither'd , so that their Autumnal Harvests were very Barren , and the Inhabitants were seiz'd with Contagious Diseases , which caused a great Mortality among 'em .

As for Vivarez , it being a Province very Mountainous and Barren , Travellours take no pleasure in it ; unless it be at Viviers , which is the Capital City of it , and the See of a Bishop . You may also visit Annonay , where the Gentry are very Civil and Courteous ; but where the Common People make it no scruple of Conscience to discharge their Fusee's upon you from behind a Hedge upon any slight occasion .

CHAP. VI. Of Savoy and part of Piedmont .

SInce the King has brought Savoy , the County of Nice , and some part of Piedmont under his Subjection , 't is requisite that I say something of those Parts , before I engage farther into France . Chamberi is the Capital City of Savoy , and the Seat of a Parlament , but the King of France being desirous to extend his Conquests this way , having this Wind of Victory in his Poop , first made himself Master of this City : after which , the County and City of Nice and Villa Franca which was call'd the Bulwark of the Mediterranean , were forc'd to acknowledge the Dominion of France , under pretence that Nice was formerly a part of Provence . Not long after the Fortress of Montmelian , which the Savoyards accounted Impregnable was likewise carry'd by the French , and then they took and burnt Oneglia , the only remaining Sea Port Town in Savoy . The Fortifications of all these Towns are very Regular , and the Churches very Beautiful .

Besides these places , the King of France has Pignerol seated upon a Mountain of the Valley of Perousa , five leagues from Turin . The other is Casal the Capital City of Montferrat , upon the River Po , which the Duke of Mantoua surrender'd to the King in 1681. These two Towns are very considerable in respect of their strength and scituation , in regard they secure France from the Invasions of the Princes of Italy , and open him a passage , when he shall be at leisure to look that way . But in regard I propose to my self a particular Volume of Italy , I omit here several remarks more proper for that Tome , then this of France .

CHAP. VII . Of Languedoc .

THere is no Province of France so vast in the extent of it as Languedoc . Eastward , it is bounded by the River Rhone , which parts it from the Dauphinate and Lorrain ; to the South , by the Mediterranean and the Pyreneans ; by the Garonne , to the West ; and to the North by Rouergne and Quercy . The Climate is accounted the best in the Kingdom , and the Soil is the most Fertile ; insomuch that it produces whatever is to be found in all the other parts of the World except Spices , your rich Gums and Sugar . The People are character'd to be very witty , much addicted to Study , and to appear often in their Accoutrements what they are not . They are accus'd of being great Talkers , very inconstant , and unfit to keep a secret . Their Women are wanton and frolicksome , much given to Paint , and love a greater liberty then becomes their Sex . However these Rules are not so general , but that they admit of many exceptions : and they that are not stain'd with these defects , need not concern themselves with common fame ; and as for others if they are so happy to amend 'em , People of Vertue will always do 'em Justice .

Tholouse is the Capital City of this beautiful and spacious Province , seated upon the Garonne ; and so antient , that 't is said , that Tholo , one of the Sons of Japhet was the Founder of it . Certain it is however that when the Romans Invaded the Gauls they found Tholouse to be a very considerable City , and therefore beautify'd it with a Capitol , Amphitheaters , and Aqueducts , the Remainders of which , besides her Churches and other Structures are sufficient Testimonies of her Antiquity . Afterwards it was the Metropolis of the Kingdom of the Visigoths , and after that , of the Kingdom of Aquitain .

It is the seat of a Famous Parlament , an Arch-bishoprick , a Generality , a Chamber of Accounts , and a University . The Cathedral is dedicated to St. Stephen ; and that of St. Saturnin is a beautiful Pile ; where 't is said they have the Bodies of no less then seven of the Apostles , and one of the Thorns of our Saviour's Crown . There is a vast Treasure which could never be taken away , whether it be by reason of the noisomness of the Water , or whether it be guarded , as they say , by Prodigious Serpents that threaten to devour all those that disturb their Rest . However it were , History tells us , that the Gauls making War with the Inhabitants of Delphos brought away vast Riches : and that the share of the Tectosages , who inhabited Languedoc , came to a hundred and ten thousand pound weight in Gold , and five millions of pounds weight in Silver : that their Priests enforc'd 'em to throw the Riches into the Lake of Tholouse , whence Cepio , the Roman Consul caus'd it to be carri'd away , sometime after , having put the Lake to Sale by Outcry : and there is some reason to believe that a great deal of it might be left behind ; but I am not certain whether it lies in that part where the Church of St. Saturnin is built .

In the Church of the Observantin Friers is a Vault which consumes the Flesh of Dead Bodies without hurting the Skin , or Dislocating their Members . In the Church of the Jacobins is to be seen a Pillar that supports after a wonderful manner five or six Vaults one above another : I forbear to mention the rest of their Monasteries , in some of which there are several Reliques and Curiosities .

The University of Tholouse is accountted one of the most famous in Europe , except the two Universities in England , and the second in France ; for which reason perhaps it was that Ausonius calls it the City of Pallas , and that it generally bears the Epithete of Tholouse la Savante , or Tholouse the Learned .

Castres is another very antient City of Languedoc with a Bishoprick . Lavaur , Pamiers , a Bishops See , Mirepoix , a Bishops See , and some other Cities in the Parts adjoining are very pleasant places , where the People feast and make good chear at a cheap rate ; which is the reason that 't is a common saying among 'em that they have more good Victuals then Money .

Carcasson is commanded by a Cittadel which is very strong , both by reason of the scituation of it and the Works about it ; and before you enter into it you must leave your Sword at the Gate . The City is considerable for the Woollen Manufactures , for the neatness and uniformity of the Streets , and the sweet temper and civility of the Inhabitants .

We must not remove far from Languedoc without visiting Perpignan in Roussillon , where the Men go after the French Fashion ; and the Women after the Spanish Mode . The Cittadel is compos'd of Five Bastions , commanded by a Fort which is call'd the Donjon . Some Leagues from thence , you meet with a Fountain of Salt Water , which springs out of a Rock in such abundance , that about six or seven Paces from thence it forms a River , over which there is built a Bridge of several Arches .

Narbonne disputes the Point of Antiquity with all the other Cities of France ; for they pretend that Narbo , K. of the Country was the Founder of it , long before the Birth of Christ . But that which we find most certain is , that it was in great Request in the time of the Romans , who grac'd it with a Capitol and an Amphitheater , erected Municipal Schools within it , adorn'd it with a Bath and Aqueducts , and all the marks of Roman Grandeur , as being the Seat of the Proconsuls , and their first Colony out of Italy in Europe ; in acknowledgment of which Favours , the Inhabitants set up a Statue to Augustus : So that Rome and Narbonne were leagu'd to each other under the Title of Sisters ; and 't is said , that the Sympathy between 'em was so great , that in the Year 145. Rome and Narbonne were afflicted both at the same time with a dreadful Conflagration that happen'd by Accident . But the greatest part of the Roman Antiquities were ruin'd by the Goths and Vandals . This , being a Frontier Town , is regularly fortifi'd ; and the Canal of Conjunction between the two Seas , a Royal Undertaking , becoming a great Prince , derives the beginning of it from Narbonne . It is the Seat of an Archbishoprick ; and the Archbishop is Primate of the Province , President born of the States of Languedoc , and dignifi'd with the Title of Lord of the Sea .

Bezieres , is a City not far distant from Narbonne , seated upon a Hill , the Avenues to which are somewhat difficult . It is both Large and Ancient , and greatly valu'd by the Romans , who erected there two famous Temples to Augustus and Julia. It is still one of the most Delightful Places of Abode in France . Insomuch , that the beauty of the place , and the fertility of the soil , have begot a Proverb among the People of the Country , Que si Dieu habitoit sur la Terre , il choisiroit Bezieres pour sa Sejour . That if God were to live upon the Earth , he would make choice of Bezieres for his Place of Residence .

The City of Pesenas is no less pleasant , and the Inhabitants are much more civil and courteous : and no question but the Residence of several Princes there from time to time , as the late Prince of Conti deceas'd , and Monsieur de Montmoranci , contributed not a little to infuse into 'em the Air of the Court.

Though I shall end this Chapter with the Cities of Montpellier and Nimes , 't is not because they are less considerable : the contrary rather may be said , that Travellers tarry longer at Montpellier , then in any other City of Languedoc , by reason of the Variety of Divertisements which they meet with in the Place , good Chear , good Company , Familiarity , Galantry , and Learning ; all which Advantages they meet with there in a Superlative Degree .

The University is accounted the most famous for Physick in all France . And it is to be observ'd that no Dr. in that Faculty is to be admitted , till he has first receiv'd seven times the Robe and Bonnet of Rabelais in the Castle of Monac . In such Veneration is that Doctor among those that govern this Academy . The reason of it is this .

The Scholars having committed some Disorders in the City , which occasion'd Complaints against the University at Court , they were depriv'd of some part of their Liberties ▪ and Privileges . Rabelais , who had been a Monk , and was a person of a Luxuriant Wit , being then at Montpellier , could not choose but participate of the Trouble the Academians were in when they heard the News . What does he do , but goes to Paris , and presents himself at the Chancellor du Pratt's House ? The Swiss , who took him for a Fool , ask'd him , what his Business was ? To which Rabelais answer'd him in Latin . Upon which , the Swiss not understanding a word he said , call'd for one of the Chancellor's Officers , who understood the Language ; which Rabelais finding out , answer'd him in Greek : With that they brought him a person that understood Greek perfectly well ; but to him the Doctor spoke Hebrew : and if they talk'd to him in Hebrew , he answer'd in Syriack or Arabick , &c. So that having puzzl'd and exhausted all the Learning in the Chancellors House , the Chancellor desir'd to see him himself : at what time having Harangu'd him in favour of the Students of Montpellier , he obtain'd the Restoration of the Privileges that had been taken from 'em . This Rabelais was made Curate of Meudon , and dy'd at Paris in 1553. and being a Man of such a pleasant Humour , this Epitaph was made upon him :

Pluto , Prince of Shades Infernall , Where sad Souls ne're laugh , but burn all , Be kind to Rablais , and they 'll all Fall a laughing , great and small .

Near the Convent of the Cordeleers , there is to be seen a Lake full of Frogs that have never been heard to make a Noise , as the people of the County say , since St. Anthony of Padua , being interrupted by 'em in his Prayers and Meditations , commanded 'em to be Silent ; and 't is observ'd , that if you take any of those that make most noise in other places , and put 'em into this Lake they presently become as Mute as Fish . On the other side , if you take 'em out of this Lake and put 'em in another place , they shall be the first that shall fall a Croaking and the loudest in the Consort of Paddocks . Pliny recites the same thing of the Frogs in the Island of Seriphos in the Archipelago . The City it self is very Ancient , commanded by a Cittadel with fair and royal Bastions , and is the Seat of a Bishop Suffragan to Narbonne , a Presidial Court , and a Seneschalship , a Court of Aids , a Chamber of the Finances , &c. without the Town is to be seen the Royal Physick-Garden , stor'd with Curiosities in abundance .

Nimes is a very fair City , & where the Inhabitants , were they not such great Talkers , and less Malapert , would be very good Company . The City is very Ancient ; for they affirm , that Nemausus the Son of Hercules was the Founder of it , and gave it his own Name as being call'd in Latin Nemausis or Nemausus . It was formerly much more spatious then it is , as including within it seven Hills like Old Rome , and the Walls were fortify'd with a Thousand Towers .

Among the most remarkable Pieces of Antiquity we must reckon the Amphitheater erected by the Emperor Antoninus , Four hundred and seventy Paces in compass . There are also to be seen two Gladiators cut in Stone ; the Wolf that suckl'd Romulus and Remus , and the Vultures that appear'd to those two Founders of Rome .

There is likewise to be seen at Nimes , a Cavern that runs under-ground as far as Arles : for it was the Custom of the Romans to have in several parts such subterraneal Communications between one City and the other . In the Neighborhood also appears a very Curious Piece of Roman Workmanship ; that is to say , Three Bridges one above another ; the lowest of six Arches ; the second of two ; and the third of thirty : so that the whole Structure may be about Fourscore and two foot high . This Bridge is call'd Pont du Gard.

I shall say nothing of the Grotto's , the Garden of St. Privat , or of the great number of Curious Statues ; only I may add this in short , that this City is an Epitome of the Roman Antiquities : and give me leave to insert this one thing more , that without the City some Remainders of a Building are to be seen , which is said to have been a Temple of Diana , and that the Fountain of Vesta , which is near it , was famous heretofore , because the Water was made use of to Purifie the Vestal Nuns .

The City is a Town of great Trade , & there are made in it great Quantities of Woollen Stuffs . It is also the Seat of Bishop , a Seneschalship , and a Presidial Court .

CHAP. VIII . Of Guien and Gascoignie .

MAny People under the Name of Gascognie , comprehend all the Provinces that lye beyond Lion ; as the Dauphinate , Provence and Languedoc ; whereas Gascognie is no more then a small Province included with in Guienne .

The Garonne contributes not a little to enrich this Province ; it receives the Merchandizes which Forreign Vessels import , and carries away the Wines and other Commodities of the Country .

The People are look'd upon to be a little Insolent , excessive Boasters , and somewhat given to Thieving . But the Rule is not without Exceptions , for there are as vertuous People among 'em as in other places , and free-hearted beyond compare . They are the best Souldiers in France , especially after they have had a Campagne or two i' their Bellies ; and the Souldiers from the Neighbouring Provinces are as good as they : Their Train'd-Bands have made themselves sufficiently known in Piedmont and Catalogna these last Years .

Bourdeaux is the most considerable City of this Province , as being the seat of a Venerable Parliament , an Archbishoprick , and a famous University for the Civil and Canon-Law , founded by Eugenius IV. and Lewis X. in 1473. It affords very beautiful Pieces of Antiquity ; among the rest the Statue of Jupiter , and that of the Emperour Adrian , which a Counsellor of the City has got into his Study . The Hollow-Stones that lye at St. Severin's , are very much worth Observation ; in regard they are full or empty of Water , as the Moon is either at the Full , or in her Wain . Lewis XIV . has not a little contributed to make this City considerable by the Castle Trompette , which he built for the Defence of the Haven , which by means of the Garonne , receives the biggest of Merchants Vessels , that bring great Wealth to the City . Some Years since the Parlament of Bourdeaux was remov'd to Reaule , which did a great Injury to the City , discontented the Members of that Venerable Body ; but brought great Advantages and Profit to that little Borough .

There are an Infinite Number of other Cities in Guyenne , and the parts adjoyning , where Travellers may meet with a Thousand ▪ pleasing Objects ; as Cadillac , Baza , Bayonne , St. Jean de Luz , &c. But I leave those that have seen 'em , or have a mind to visit 'em , to judge of their Beauty .

CHAP. IX . Of Xaintonge and Angoumois .

I Join these two Provinces together , first , because they both give their names to the Capital Cities , and are very near under the same Climate ; and secondly because the Remarks which I have made upon each in particular , being added together , will afford matter but for a very small Chapter .

Xaintes , seated upon the Banks of the Charante , is beautify'd with many marks of Antiquity . The Bridge over the River makes it evident by a Latin Inscription that it was built by Caesar ; upon which are also to be seen the remains of a Triumphal Arch. The Church of St. Peters , which was the one and twentieth of those that Charlemaign caus'd to be built was ruin'd in the last Civil Wars . Nor is it less remarkable for the remains of an Amphitheater and several Aqueducts , and divers other Monuments of Roman Antiquity . It is also a Bishops See , and the Seat of a Presidial Court . 'T is likewise observ'd that the Water of the River Charante keeps much longer sweet at Sea , then the Water of other Rivers .

There are also several other fair Cities in Xaintoigne , as Coignac , Tonnay , and Brouage ; famous for the Salt-pits adjoyning to it . At the Mouth of the Sea , which is call'd the Sea of Bourdeaux , stands a Tower built upon a Rock , which serves as a Pharos or Land mark to direct Ships that Sail upon that Coast . It is call'd the Tower of Cordouan ; and we are assur'd , that it is much higher and more beautiful then the Pharos of Alexandria .

Blaye , built upon the River side , is considerable for the Fortifications which hinder the Entrance of any Enemies Ships into the Harbour . There is also to be seen the Sepulchre of Charibert King of Paris , the Eldest Son of Clotaire the First .

The County of Xantoigne is very fertile in Corn , Wine , Pasturage , Saffron , &c. greatly stor'd with Fish , and abounding in Roman , or Pontic Wormwood ; and it is a common Proverb among the People of the Country , That if France were an Egg , Xantoigne would be the Yolk .

Though the City of Angoulesm be seated upon a Rock at the top of a Mountain , yet there is a Cittadel also built for the better Defence of it : Which also serves for a Curb upon the City it self should their happen any Sedition .

Two Leagues from Angoulesm , is a Fountain to be seen , which issuing out of an Abyss , never increases nor diminishes . A certain Queen of France , being desirous to know whence the Spring of this Fountain should arise , order'd a Condemn'd Person to be let down into the Abyss , who reported that he could see nothing but Dreadful Rocks and Monstrous Fish , that would have devour'd him , had he not speedily got out of their way . At Montmeron a Silver Mine was discover'd ; but no-body was ever set to work in it . The reason of which I believe to be , because Nature has furnish'd it with so small a quantity of that Metal , that the Mine will not afford Ore enough to Pay the Workmen .

The People of Xantoigne are lookt on to be very Witty , and more Courageous . Those of Angoulesm are no less Warlike , and love to live like Gentlemen ; but the Common People are Clowns and Brutes .

CHAP. X. Of Limosin and Perigort .

THE City of Limoges , is the Capital of Limosin ; remarkable for several Monuments of Antiquity , and for three Councils held there in the Years 1029. 1031. and 1182. There are also to be seen several Aqueducts built by the Romans , Three Churches , and a great Number of Monasteries . 'T is also the seat of a Presidial Court , and an Audit for the King's Finances . Nor are Travellers to pass through it , without seeing the Artificers for Enamelling , wherein they are so perfect in this City , that there is not better Workmanship of that sort in any part of the World : and going to Vssel you see 'em no less busily employ'd in making of false Diamonds . The other most considerable Cities of Limosin , are Gueret , Tulle Brive , Vserche , a very Strong Hold , Roche Abeille , famous for the great Battel there fought in 1569. Chalos , noted for the Horse-Fairs there kept , Aines , Aimotier , &c.

Though Perigort be Stony and Mountainous , yet the Inhabitants are well enough contented with their Condition . For the vast Number of Chesnuts which grow in this County , not only serve 'em for the Nourishment of their Families , but to fatten their Hoggs ; Besides , that it is well stor'd with Medicinal Waters , and Iron Mines .

Periguex is the Capital City of this Province ; so very Ancient , that some scruple not to affirm it to have been built by one of the Sons of Noah . But others from the Name of Vesuna , which the Ancients gave it , derive the Name of it from Venus , who was formerly worshipt in this City ; where there are still to be seen the Ruins of a Temple dedicated to that Goddess , with several other Antiquities . The Fountain of Marlac , not far off from Periguex , ought to be visited , for the Ebbing and Flowing of the Waters that supply it . Which contributes not a little to confirm the Opinion of those who say , that Periguex is built upon a floating piece of Ground . Some Years ago , there was a Well in the Great Market-Place stopt up , which was thought to be an Abyss , in regard that several People being let down , could could never find a Bottom ; only they reported upon their coming up again , that they saw a large Plain cover'd with Water . It may be some may put the Question , whence those People had so much light as to make such a Discovery ? To which I shall answer according as they told me , that it was from other Wells of the City , and parts thereabout , which let the light into that Subterraneal Sea , and by floating Lanthorns which they drove before 'em with Engines .

Besides there are few Houses in the City , but the owners if they dig never so little in their Cellars , presently meet with Water , which by the weight , the taste , and other marks , seems to be the same with that of the Well which was stopt up , because the Harlots were wont to throw their Children into it .

Two Leagues from the City there is another Fountain , the Water of which changes it self into Stones of what form you please . But among the most remarkable things , there is a Cavern near Miramont , which is call'd Cluseau , which extends it self five or six Leagues under Ground , wherein are to be found Apartments pav'd with Mosaic Work , Altars adorn'd with beautiful Pictures , Fountains , and a River six and twenty foot broad , and beyond that , as they say , there is a vast Plain or Champian Country , where no body yet durst be so bold as to plant any Colonies .

In the Abby of Cadouan at Sarlat is to be seen a Sacred Napkin or rather Winding Sheet , wherein they affirm that the Body of Christ was wrapt when he was put into the Sepulchre of Joseph of Arimathea . Libourne , upon the Banks of the Dordogne , is a pleasant City , to which that River Ebbing and Flowing brings up Vessels of a Considerable bigness . But there is one thing very extraordinary , nor do I know that there is any other like it in the World , which is , that from time to time there runs from the Sea a Whirling Eddy of Water , about the quantity of a Tunn , which without being driven by the Force of violent Gusts of Wind , rowls up the River with such an Impetuous fury as would overturn the biggest Ships , if they stood in the way of it ; but in regard the terrible noise it makes , may be heard three Leagues off , and for that they know this Whirling Eddy which they call Macanet , always keeps along by the Shoar , the Vessels remove to the middle of the River ; and by an Instinct no less worthy of Admiration , the Wild Ducks and Swans , no sooner hear the noise but they make haste to the Land , to secure themselves from the Rowling Waves .

CHAP. XI . Of Querci , and Rouergne .

QVerci cannot chuse but be a very fertile Country , as being water'd by the Garonne , the Dordogne , and the Tarr , which are three Navigable Rivers . There are said to be Mines both of Gold and Silver in it ; but the Inhabitants take little or no care to look after 'em ; no question because they have plenty of Corn , Wine , Prunes , Saffran and Pastorage , that will fetch Gold and Silver without the pains of Digging and Delving . The Common People are Boarish , but the Gentry and Nobility very Civil .

Cahors is the Capital City of Querci where the Amphitheater , the Bridges and the Towers are infallible proofs of the Antiquity of it . Pope John XXII . a great disturber of the peace of Europe , was born at Cahors , and founded there a University for the Common Law in 1332. Wherein he shew'd more love to the place of his Nativity then to all the World besides . It is also a Bishops See which is said to bring in the greatest Profit of any other in France . The Cathedral Church is dedicated to St. Steven , and was Consecrated by St. Martral . There are also in it several other Churches and Monasteries and a Colledge of Jesuits , ever since the year 1605. 'T is also the Seat of a Presidial Court , from whence Judgments are carry'd by appeal to the Parliament of Tholouse .

Part of the Diocess of Montaubon is seated in Languedoc , and therefore the Bishops have a seat in the Diocess of that Province . The Hugonots made themselves Masters of it in 1562. and fortify'd it so well that it held out three several Seiges ; but at length it was snbdu'd in the year 1592. and because it should be no more a refuge for Revolt , the Fortifications were laid level with the Ground .

Moissac is another City of Querci , seated as well as Montauban upon the River Tarr . It was taken from the Romans by the Goths , and from them by K. Clovis . After that Gaiger Duke of Aquitain took it , and from him it was retaken by K. Pepin in 1212. The English utterly ruin'd it . However afterwards it came to be considerable again ; but it will hardly recover the ill usage it receiv'd from the Hugonots in the Civil Wars . A traveller will find little considerable in Rouergne except the Steeple of the Cathedral of Rodez , which is lookt upon to be the highest and the best wrought Piece of Architecture in France . The City of Rodez is very ancient but has lost the Antient splendour of it , as having been ruin'd by the Goths , Saracens and Francks , &c. however it is still a Bishops See , and the Seat of a Seneschalship . It formerly bore the Title of an Earldom , which was united to the Crown by Hen. IV.

In the parts adjoining to this City stands the Mountain of Canseu , which Burns when it Rains : and two Leagues from thence you meet with an Abyss , sixty paces wide at the top , and two hunder'd deep : and by the side of this Abyss is to be seen a hole which has no bottom .

The Quercinois are lookt upon to be very great dissemblers ; and the Perigordins to be very quarrelsome , especially in their Cups .

CHAP. XII . Of Auvergne .

AVvergne is one of the principal Provinces of France : it bears the Title of an Earldom ; and is bounded to the East ; by Forests , and Lyonnois ; by Rouergne and Velai to the South ; by Querci , Perigort , and Limosin to the West , and by Berry and Bourbonnois to the North. It is divided into the Upper and Lower . The Upper drives a great Trade in Cheese , Horses , Cows , Mules , &c. The Lower abounds in Corn and Wine , and Trades in Tapestry , Bone-lace , Cloth , Knives , and other Commodities . The greatest part of the Auvergnois are laborious , crafty , full of dissimulation , addicted to quarrel , and very self-conceited and opinionated of themselves ; so that if you do not give 'em their way with much compliance , a little thing will create a squabble .

Aurillac is the Capital City of the Upper Auvergne , which was formerly adorn'd with several fair Churches , for the most part ruin'd in the Civil Wars . Among the most remarkable things we have there to be seen , the Refectory of the Carmelites is reckon'd to be the chiefest , which much surpasses in Neatness , Bigness and Painting all the rest of the Convent .

The Presidial Court of Aurillac is lookt upon to be one of the severest Tribunals in the whole Kingdom .

In this Division of Auvergne stands the Mountain Cantal , remarkable for the height of it , and for the Simples which it produces , tho it be extreamly cold ; the other Mountains are also fertile in Pastorages . The lower Auvergne commonly called la Limayne is not so wide in the extent of it as the Upper . But it is much a more pleasant place to reside in . The soil is more fertile , and the Inhabitants are more Civil and Sociable . Clairmont is the Capital City of it . The Cathedral is cover'd with Lead , which the Air has purify'd to that degree , that people have offer'd a considerable summ for the Covering , and to lay on another of Lead of the same thickness ; but neither would their Money be taken , nor their proffer accepted . There is in it a Fountain that turns into Stone as it falls : upon which account , some aver that the Bridge which is there to be seen was the work of this strange operation of nature . It is eight fathom wide , six in thickness , and thirty six long : for which reason Charles IX . had the curiosity to see it . Several Councils have been held at Clairmont ; among which the most famous was that in the year 1095. at what time by the sollicitations of Vrban the II. The celebrated Croisade was resolv'd upon for the Conquest of the Holy Land . Charles the V. assembled the States of the Kingdom in this City . 'T is believ'd this City was built out of the Ruins of the Ancient Gergovia , so highly applauded by Caesar in his Commentaries ; and where there was a Tower which could not be burnt when that City was all in Conflagration , by reason it was made of Larch or Larinx wood , which resists Fire .

Rion famous for the Antiquity of it is seated upon a Hill , which renders the Situation and the Prospect very pleasant . The Houses are well built , the Streets straight and broad , the Churches Magnificent , the Monasteries stately , the Inhabitants sumptuous : but nothing makes the City so remarkable , as St. Amable's Tooth , which as they say , infallibly cures the bitings of mad Dogs , of Serpents or any other venemous Beasts . In a word the Situation of the City and parts adjoining is so pleasant , that it is call'd the Garden and Paradise of Auvergne .

This City is the seat of a Mareschalship , a Presidial-court , a Generality of the Finances , an Election and all the Officers of Justice sit in a Palace built by John of Berry .

About a small quarter of a League from Clairmont stands Montferrand another considerable City ; which was the reason that the Marquess d'Effiat , would fain have had 'em join'd together under the name of Clairmont-Ferrand , but the Jealousie of the Inhabitants started so many difficulties , that he could not compass his design . The Buildings are very beautiful and the Magnificence of the Churches inspire Devotion .

Some few Leagues from Rion is to be seen the little City of old Brioude , remarkable for the Bridge that belongs to it consisting of one Arch ▪ which is supported by two Mountains of a prodigious height . It was built by Caesar's Order ; and it is observable , that one Stone falling out of the Building some Ages since , could never be put again into the place from whence it fell .

Le Puy is a City very considerable for the largeness of it , the riches of it , the fertility of the soil , and other advantages . The great number of Reliques which are there preserv'd draws the Devotion of the people for above seven or eight leagues round . But in regard the People always magnify Objects , and multiply Miracles , which the places where Reliques are deposited , are seldom sorry for , it many times happens that true Devotion is intermix'd with Superstition . Amongst the pretious Gages which that City preserves , there is an Image of the Holy Virgin , of Cedarwood , which the Ignorant People say was made by a Prophet of the Old Testament that wrought Journey work under Joseph .

The same silly People also give credit to what a Demoniack formerly pronounc'd in the Church of this City , that a Relique which is there preserv'd of one of the Innocent Children which were Massacred by Herod was the begotten son of that Barbarous King .

CHAP. XIII . Of Lionnois .

LIonnois is a small Province from the which Capital City derives the name of Lyon . The People are very courteous and civil to strangers ; their prevailing passion being desire of gain , which extends their Trade to that degree , that it is call'd the Magazine of France . And it is commonly said in reference to the Magnificence of Lyon , that if Paris be without her equal , Lyon has no companion . It was formerly call'd the Colony of Claudius , because that Emperor was born there .

The City of Lyon , seated upon the Confluence of the Rhone and the Sone , is accounted one of the best Situated , most Antient , the Fairest and one that drives the greatest Trade in all France . It is the Seat of an Archbishop who is Primate of the Gauls , of a Presidial Court , an Audit for the Kings Revenues , a Mint , a Seneschalship , an Election , a Tribunal of Trade under the Title of the Conservation of Lyon . It is said to have been founded by one Lugdus , King of the Celtae , and therefore was in Latin call'd Lugdunum . Others say that one Momor a Prince of the Gauls built a City upon the Confluence of the Rhone and Sone by command of the Emperour , and because he saw a flight of Crows settle upon a Mountain adjoining he call'd it the Lugdune or the Hill of the Crows . As for those who assert it to have been a Colony of the Romans , 't is a visible Errour , in regard the Druids had held their Assemblies there before ever Rome was talk'd of ; and the Phoenicians and Greeks had settl'd themselves in it , before that Famous Republick ever sent any Colonies into Gaul . However it were certain it is that there was an Altar in or near this City where the Orators of those times disputed for the Prizes of Eloquence , and a Sacred Grove where the Ancients offer'd up their Sacrifices . The City of Lyon is divided into thirty seven quarters , which are call'd Penonages , which have every one their several Captains , and other Officers . It has seven Gates , the Market Places and Piazza's are Magnificent , and the Buildings both Sacred and Prophane are sumptuous . The Cathedral is dedicated to St. John , and was built upon the Ruins of the Altar which was dedicated to the Emperor Augustus the same year that the Emperour Claudius was born . The Town House is one of the most superb Structures in Europe : and among the Curiosities which are there to be seen , there are two Tables of Brass , upon which are engrav'd the Speech which Claudius made to the Roman Senate to incline 'em to admit the Lionnois and other Gauls into the Senate as Citizens of Rome . The Arsenal is one of the best supply'd in France . The Archiepiscopal Palace is very Beautiful . Pope Gregory VII . confirm'd in the year 1079. to the Archbishop of Lyon the Title of Primate of the Gauls . And this priviledge was adjudg'd to him by several other Pontiffs Successors to Gregory . The Chapiter of Lyon is compos'd of three Churches under one and the same Steeple ; and upon the Tolling of the same Bell Divine Service begins and ends in all the three Churches at the same Time , which are St. Johns , St. Stephans , and Holy Roods . This Chapiter has been always fill'd with persons as well Illustrious for the Nobility of their Birth , as for their Learning . Five or six celebrated Authors have observ'd that in the thirteenth Age there had been known to have been Canons , one Son of an Emperour , nine Sons of a King , fourteen Sons of Dukes , thirty Sons of Counts , and Twenty Barons .

The thirteenth Oecumenical Council was assembl'd at Lyon by Innocent IV. in 1245. and Gregory X. celebrated another there in 1274. where he presided himself And besides these two Councils several other particular Councils were held in this City at different times .

The Castle of Pierre Aneise may be said to have peculiar Beauties , if there be any Beauty in a Prison . For Prisoners of Quality and Consequence are committed to this Place : and thus the Duke of Milan was under Confinement in this Castle , when the French took him after his being defeated .

The Antiquity of Lion is easily prov'd by the Amphitheaters , Aqueducts , and old Ruins of the Palaces of several Roman Emperors who resided in it . Without the Gate of the City is to be seen a Sepulchre , call'd , The Sepulchre of the two Lovers . Some will have it to be the Monument of Herod and Herodias ; others , the Tomb of two Lovers , that had been long in Love together , but dy'd in the state of Virginity . Before the Gate of St. Justus lyes a Stone of an Immense weight , which is plac'd in such a true Equilibrium , that you may move it with one Finger .

This City is endowed with several Privileges which have been granted her by her Soveraigns from time to time ; and they who have been once honour'd with the Shrievalty of Lion , are ennobl'd , both they and their Posterity .

CHAP. XIV . Of Burgundy and Nivernois .

BVrgundy is a Province with the Title of a Dutchy and Peerdom , though it were formerly a Kingdom ; and the Title is now born by the Dauphin's eldest Son . This Province extends it self from North to South above Fifty Leagues ( not above Forty , says De la Croix ) and Thirty from East to West ( Thirty two , says De la Croix ) . The Source of the River Seine , rises in a Village of Burgundy , which is call'd St. Seine . The Burgundians are an obliging people , and love Honour ; but they are naturally opinionated and obstinate , and you must have a great Ascendant over 'em to make 'em alter their Sentiments .

Dijon is the Capital of this Province ; and Historians report , that the Emperour Aurelian having utterly raz'd and destroy'd a certain place call'd Burg-Dogne , or Burgus Deorum , was afraid of the Anger of the Gods to whom that place was Consecrated ; whereupon his Mother , Priestess of the Sun , advis'd him for the Expiation of his Fault , to build a Temple and a Castle in the same place , which were the First Foundations of this Capital City . It is remarkable for the Walls , which are fortify'd with Towers and Bastions ; the Castle flank'd with Four Great Towers , and Two Ravelins ; a fair Charter-House , wherein are the Stately Tombs of the Dukes of Burgundy , the Palace of Justice , the King's House , Sixteen Churches , two Abbies , five Hospitals , the Town-House , and for being the Place where the States of the Country meet every Three Years . This Country enriches it self by her Corn and Wine , being generally call'd the Magazine of Paris . St. Bernard was Born in a Village of this Province , call'd Fontaine .

Beaune , is a very ancient City , with a Chancery and a Bailliage , seated advantageously for every thing ; but most chiefly fruitful in delicious Wines .

Autun is also very Ancient , and some there are who derive the Etymology of the Name from Augustus . However it were , the Romans thought it worthy of their Friendship , and enter'd into an Alliance with it . The Druids held their Senate in this City . There are also to be seen the Ruins of a Temple of Juno , which they call Janitoye . And among other Antiquities , there are still to be seen a Field of Mars , the Mount of Jupiter , and the Ruins of Triumphal Arches , Pyramids , Aqueducts , &c. The Cathedral Church , and the Episcopal Palace are worth the sight of the most curious Travellers .

Auxerre is a very good City with an Episcopal See , a Presidial Court , and a Bailliage . This City is very Ancient , and it 's said , that Julian the Apostate stopt here for some time to refresh his Army . In the next Age , it was taken and almost ruin'd by Attila in the Year 451. After that , K. Robert took it in 1005. from Landri , Count of Nevers . Since which time it was govern'd by particular Counts of her own . 'T is a very great Thorough-fare , having a Stone Bridge , Large Piazza's , several Fountains , beautiful Churches , among which , the Cathedral is very Magnificent , stor'd with Reliques , and adorn'd with a most beautiful Quire , a Steeple remarkable for the heighth of it , and a Chapter of Fifty nine Canons : but the Earldom is now united to the Crown . The Bishop resides in the Castle , which it would be no difficult thing to fortifie , in regard it stands upon a rising Ground which Commands the City . There have also been two Councils held in this City , the one under the Pontificate of Pelagius , in 578. the other in 1147. It is seated upon the River Yonne , that falls into the Seine at Montereau .

Nevers , the Capital City of Nivernois , is a considerable City , not only for the goodness and fertility of the Soil , but for the Advantages it receives from the River Loire , which washes the Walls of it , and runs by the Fortress that Commands it , and over which it has a Bridge of Twenty Arches . Travellers are always us'd to visit these Parts , where the Inhabitants make Glasses and Earthen Pots , which bring great Profit to this City . The Bishoprick is under the Archbishop of Sens , and one of the best in the Kingdom . In the last Assembly of the States General of the Kingdom , the Deputies of Nivernois appear'd under the Government of Orleanois . There are in this Little Province both Iron and Silver Mines , but the People make little Advantage of 'em .

CHAP. XV. Of Berry and Burbonnois .

THough the Province of Berry be of no great Extent , yet is it very Rich. The Cloth which is there made is in great Esteem ; and the Wool in this Province is the best in the Kingdom . The Inhabitants who were in Ancient Time call'd the Bituriges , were very formidable : And History informs us not only of the Conquests which they made in Germany and Italy ; but that the same People , who a long time held the Empire of the Gauls , were they who gave Caesar the Greatest Trouble in his Conquests .

The Capital City of Berry is Bourges , being an Archbishoprick , with the Title of a Primacy and Patriarchate , having also a Presidial Court , a Bailliage , a Generality , and a University . The Situation of it is very Advantageous , by reason of the two Rivers that make a kind of Bogg , and fill the Moats . It has seven Gates , and as many Suburbs . The Walls are in a good condition , fortify'd with Four and twenty Towers . The Ramparts are Cannon-proof , the Stones being cut Diamond fashion , and Nineteen Foot thick . The Cathedral Church is dedicated to St. Stephen , a most beautiful Structure , supported by Fifty Pillars .

The Treasury of this Cathedral contains many Curiosities which Foreigners will be glad to see , and of which I would have inserted here a Catalogue , had I not unfortunately mislay'd it in my Travels . This City suffer'd much by the Irruptions of the Barbarians in the Fifth Age , and still it feels the furious sack of the Huguenots upon the 27th of May 1562. when the Count of Montmorancy , who was their General , took it .

Bourbonnois is separated from Burgundy by the River Loire , which lyes to the East ; Berry bounds it to the West ; Auvergne and Forest to the South ; and Nivernois to the North. This Province is not so considerable for it self , though the Soil be very fertile , as for the Honour which it has to see the Illustrious House of Bourbon wear the Crown of France .

The City of Bourbon bequeath'd her Name to this Province , though it be not the Capital ; which is attributed to Moulins . The Castle of Bourbon is environ'd with 24 Towers , which renders it extremely strong . Near the Castle lies a great Marsh , where are the Baths of Bourbon , so renown'd all over Europe .

Moulins is a very large and fair City , seated upon the River Allier , and remarkable for the Mineral Waters , and for the great Number of Cutlers Shops . The Presidial Court is one of the greatest Ornaments that belong to it .

CHAP. XVI . Of Poitou , and the Country of Aunis .

POitou is a large Province , containing near Sixty Leagues from East to West , ( De la Croix says , about 30 Leagues in Length , and 20 in Breadth ) It is bounded by Berry , Limosin , and Touraine . To the South , by Angoumois and Xantoigne ; by Anjou and Bretaigne to the North ; and to the West by the Ocean . The Poictovins are civil and obliging ; but they are so addicted to Raillery , and nettling , girding Sarcasms , that you must either forbear keeping 'em Company , or else be forc'd to bear their Flouts ; which being so frequent , change their Gay and Sportive Humour into the Vice of Scurrilous Detraction .

The Capital City of this Province is Poiters , seated upon a rising Ground between two Rivers . It is famous for being a Bishops See , and has a Presidial Court , and a University for the Law , which Pope Eugenius IV. and Charles VII . founded there in 1431. At what time the Parlament of Paris was translated thither , because the English were Masters of the Metropolis of the Kingdom . Near to Poitiers it was that the Battel so dismall to France was fought in the Year 1356. where the English took K. John Prisoner .

The City of Poitiers is govern'd by a Mayor , Twelve Sheriffs or Aldermen , and Twelve Sworn Counsellors . The Walls and Castle rose from the Ruins of the Amphitheater , and the other Structures are sufficient Proofs of the Antiquity of it . Among the Reliques which are there preserv'd , there is to be seen in the Cathedral , a part of St. Peter's Beard , which St. Hilary brought thither from Rome , as they say . The Statue of Constantine the Great , stands in the Church of Nostre Dame . In the Church of St. Hilarius , is to be seen the Trunk of a Tree , which they tell you , serv'd that Saint instead of a Cradle , and has a peculiar Efficacy to restore Madmen to their Wits . There is also a Sepulchre which consumes Dead Bodies in Four & twenty Hours , but which becomes noisom to the Smell , if you rub it with Iron .

Above half a League from the City , is to be seen that which is call'd La Pierre Elevée , or the High-rais'd Stone , Five and twenty Foot long , and Seventeen broad , supported by Four other Stones . They tell yee , that Pantagruel drew this Stone out of a Rock , which is call'd , Passe-Lourain or the Lobcoch ; having this Distich engrav'd upon it ,

Hic Lapis ingentem superat gravitate Colossum , Ponderis & grandi sidera mole premit . This Stone the vast Colossus far surpasses , And with its ponderous Bulk the Stars oppresses .

This Stone , as I have said already , is supported by Four Pillars ; and there is also a fifth , upon which the Stone does not rest ; though it stand within a fingers breadth of it , of which the people of the Country tell this Story . That Sir Aldegonde carrying the great Stone upon his Head , and the Five Pillars in his Apron , let fall one of 'em ; which the Devil presently taking up , follow'd the Saint , who stopp'd half a League from Poitiers , and set the great Stone upon the Four Pillars that remain'd in his Apron . But the Devil being desirous to add a fifth , could never raise it so high as to bear with the rest , and to be assistant in supporting the Burthen .

Nor must I pass over in silence a certain Cavern about four Leagues from the City , the Entrance into which is very difficult , and the Passage more difficult . 'T is said , that formerly they were wont to go and take a walk in this Cavern , after the usual mirth and rejoycing that attends upon Weddings . But that a Young Bride having fallen into it and broken her Head , they who came after , thinking it more convenient to keep their Skulls whole , the Custom was abolish'd . They who have a desire to Visit the Town-House of Poitiers , may see the Franchises and Privileges granted by the Kings of France from time to time , to the City , Engraven upon Plates of Brass .

There are also other very fair Cities in Poitou , as Lodun , the Castle of which is one of the best situated in the Kingdom . It was formerly call'd Juliodunum , and has a Bailliage and a Presidial Court . Next to this Chasteleraut , famous for Cutlers , and where they make the best false Diamonds in any Part of the World . 'T is said , that about a small League from this City , in former days , a young Hind shew'd the Souldiers of Clovis the Great , where to pass the River , going before 'em as their Guide , when they went to fight Alaric K. of the Goths . The Bridge which Katherine de Medicis there built , is a very fair one ; as being Sixty six foot broad , and Two hundred and thirty long , supported by Nine Arches . Mailluizay and Luson , are two Episcopal Cities , which have very fair Churches ; nor are they without some particular Beauties : Nevertheless the First Bishoprick was translated to Rochelle in 1648.

The Country of Aunis , so call'd , as they say , because a certain King undertook to Conquer it by an Ell aday , though it be but of a small extent , yet is very fertile and well peopl'd . The City of Rochelle is the Capital City . Which though it be not very Ancient , became famous in the last Age , by reason of the Civil Wars for Religion . The first Houses that were erected in this place , were built to withstand the Incursions of the Normans , that many times Landed in the Harbour . By the Treaty of Bretigny it was surrender'd to the English against the Will of the Inhabitants ; but return'd not long after under the Dominion of France .

The Hugonets became Masters of it in the last Age. And La Noue , who was Governor of it , valiantly defended it against the Siege which Charles IX . in vain laid to it , with his Forces under the Conduct of his Brother Henry , afterwards Henry III. who left the Siege to take Possession of the Crown of Poland . In the Year 1620. there was a meeting of the Huguenots at Rochel , to consult about laying the Foundation of a small Protestant Republick . But Lewis XIII . reduc'd 'em to their Duty in 1622. But in regard the English and Hollanders encourag'd 'em to revolt , and for that the Sea afforded an easie entrance for their succour , they soon drew upon 'em the Indignation of their Soveraign ; at what time , in the Year 1627. Cardinal Richelieu having caus'd a Mound or Dam to be raised , Seven hundred forty seven Fathom long , on purpose to hinder their Communication with the Sea , they Surrender'd the 28th of Octob. 1628. The King who was personally at the Siege , enter'd into the Town upon All-Saints Day , depriv'd the Inhabitants of their Privileges , and demolish'd their Fortifications , leaving only the two Towers which Charles V. built , and which were thought requisite for the defence of the Port , which he secur'd with a Chain that reach'd from one Tower to another .

Since that time , the present King has surrounded it with New and Strong Fortifications , a good Cittadel , and other Works to hinder the Landing of a Forreign Enemy . It is now a Town of great Trade , whither all the Merchandizes are brought that are transported from the Indies ; and besides that it is a Bishops See , it is also the seat of a Presidial Jurisdiction , and a Soveraign Court for the Western Salt-Pits . The people in their Humour , partake of the Air of the Sea , which they breath , and are therefore very boisterous and insolent , and no less full of Vanity and Pride . Rochefort is a Sea-Port Town at the Mouth of the River Charante , formerly no more then a Village , now a City with good Bastions , upon which are planted Rows of Trees , that make very pleasant Walks ; There is also in this place several Ware-houses , and an Hospital for sick and wounded Seamen .

CHAP. XVII . Of Bretagne .

BRetagne is a very large Province , which is also usually call'd by the Name of Little Bretaigne , to distinguish it from Great Britain ; which contains the Kingdoms of England , Scotland and Ireland , and the small Islands adjoyning . There is no Province of France that has so great a Number of Havens as this ; for it is environ'd by the Ocean to the North , South and West : Eastward it is bounded by Poitou , Anjou , Maine and Normandy . It extends it self above Forty Leagues from South to North ; that is to say , from the Island of Bouitz to the Mouth of the River Couenon , and Sixty from East to West ; that is to say , from Vitrey , to the Point of Conquet , and contains Nine Bishopricks . Formerly it was govern'd by Kings for above Three hundred Years together , but was afterwards contented with the Title of a Dukedom , till the Year 1491. that Ann of Bretaine , the only Daughter of Francis II. the last Duke , married Charles the Eighth of France , and after that Lewis XII . who both United this Dutchy to the Crown .

The Soil is fertile in Corn , Flax , Hemp and Fruits , affords good Butter , and Breeds good Horses , but produces little Wine , to the great Grief of the Inhabitants , who are great Lovers of it . Between Chasteau-Briant and Martigues , are several Mines of Iron and Lead . In the Signory of Salle , is a Source of Water that smells of Antimony , and drives before it a sort of Sand of the colour of Gold : and not far off upon a high Hill , they find Antimony , Sulphur and Copper : And in another place , they dig out Talc and Stone Allum , which being pounded into Powder , may be spun into long Threads or Candlewieks , which never go out as long as there is any substance remaining , and is thought to be the Asbestos of the Ancients . In the Mines of Valgoet , are to be found both Jasper Stones , and very clear Chrystal , with several other Rarities . Moreover , in this Province there is a great Value put upon the Secrets of the Mount Menehaldec , the Beauties of the Forrest of Besban , where is still to be seen the square Base of Stone call'd Perron-Merlin , the ancient Divertisement of the Knights Errant , and the Fountain of Balanton , &c. They also make great reckoning of the Amber of Bell-Isle , the Aqueducts of Dal , the Vaults between Rieux and Redon . the Subterraneal Torrent in the Forrest of St. Aubin du Cornier , the Singularities of the River Ardre , and the Lake of Grandlieu near Nantes . And having already told yee how the Province is seated upon the Sea , I think it needless to tell yee that they are stor'd with all sorts of Fish ; among the rest , there is taken upon the Coast of Bretaigne , a certain Fish , which at Marseilles is call'd Imperador or the Emperour , but in Bretanie , Gracieux Seigneur , which is very delightful to the tast . The Bretons are of a very sociable Humour , and there are two sorts of People , whose Company pleases 'em better then any other . The first are those that can stoutly hold out to drink with 'em ; The next , are they who in their Discourses , or otherwise , make appear their Hatred of the Normans .

For the People of those two Provinces have such an Antipathy one against another , that they can never speak well of each other .

Rennes is the Capital City of Bretagne , divided by the little River of Vilaine , which brings up great Barks to the Town , though it stands above Twenty Leagues from the Sea . Henry II. erected a Parlament in this City , which is also a Bishop's See , adorn'd with fair Churches , two Abbies , St. Magdalens and St. Georges , with several other Religious Houses , and the Bell belonging to the Palace Clock , is accompted one of the biggest in the Kingdom : and having been formerly the Residence of the Dukes of Bretagne ; it is stor'd with several Reliques for Travellers to see , either out of Curiosity or Devotion .

Nantes contends for Superiority with Rennes , as being likewise a Bishops See , and pretending that her Haven renders her more wealthy , more famous , and makes an ample amends for the Parlament , with which the other is Honour'd . But not to trouble my self to decide the Controversie between these two Cities , I shall only observe that Nantes is very ancient ; and some Authors will have it , that Nantes , one of the Progeny of Noah , was the Founder of it , and gave it his own Name . However it were , she had once particular Counts of her own , and the Beauty and Fertility of her Soil , appropriated to her the Sirname of the Eye of Bretagne . There is a Castle belonging to this City ; which secures the Port : and her Presidial Court , where there is a Tower and a Clock , both considerable for the rarity of their Workmanship , and an Election render her no less remarkable then her University for the Law , founded by Pope Pius II. in the time of Francis II. the last Duke of Bretagne .

When you visit the Churches , you shall see the Tombs of several Dukes of Bretagne : The Town-House is built after the Modern Mode : and her large Ware-Houses for all sorts of Merchandizes merit the View of all Travellers , who will then admire the vast Wealth of this City . The Edict which Hen. IV. set forth at Nantes , in favour of the Protestants in April 1598. was revok'd by Lewis XIV . in October 1685.

St. Malo's is another famous Sea-port Town of this Province seated upon a Rock in the Sea , in the Island of St. Aron , joyn'd to the Land by a long Causey ; the entrance into which is defended by a Castle flank'd with large Towers , environ'd with good Moats , where there is a Garison and a Governour . The Bishoprick of St. Quidalet was translated thither in the Year 1172.

I have here two things to observe concerning St. Malo's , one of which is true , the other seems to me to be a Fable . The first is , That every Night they let out a dozen or fifteen great Mastiffs , that presently run their Rounds about the City upon the Ramparts , and infallibly tear to pieces all people that they meet with . So that before they suffer 'em to walk their Patrolle , there is a Bell Toll'd for some time to give people notice that the merciless Watch is a coming . These Dogs are kept on purpose to preserve the City from surprize : which gave occasion for some to say , That Dogs had the Guard of St. Malo's .

My second Remark relates to a Raven and a Crow that are in the Island , whose number never increases . When one of these two Dies , all that are in the Neighbouring Parts flock thither to take possession of the Vacancy , as if it were an Inheritance ; and in regard they have no Knowledge of Littleton's Tenures or the Canon-Law , much less of the Genealogy of their Ancestors , so as to leave their Estates to the next Heirs , they fall to Bloody Wars one among another : many are slain on both sides , many are wounded , and many betake themselves to Cowardly flight , and save themselves upon the Continent ; and thus at length the strongest carries it , and becomes peaceable Possessour of the Island all the rest of his days . As to the Surviver , I know not whether upon the loss of his Companion he loses his Privileges , or whether he measures Beaks and Claws , and then Duels it out with the new Comer .

Brest is the best Seaport-Town which The French have upon the Ocean ; for which reason it is the Great Maritime Arsenal of the Kingdom , and the Rendevouz of the French Fleets . The Entrance into the Bay is very dangerous by reason of several Rocks that lye under Water upon high Tides ; but there are always skilful Pilots ready to carry in great Ships without any hazard . The King caus'd this Place to be fortify'd after a wonderful manner , and not without Reason , it being one of the Principal Keys of the Kingdom , and the Rendevouze of all his Men of War .

CHAP. XVIII . Of Anjou and Touraine .

THE Province of Anjou , dignify'd with the Title of a Dukedom , has Bretagne to the East , Maine to the North , Touraine to the West , and Poitou to the South . It is Thirty Leagues in Length , and Twenty Broad ( Twenty two , says de la Croix ) and being water'd with the Loire , the Sarre , and several other Rivers ( no less then Six and Thirty , says de la Croix ) it is extremely fertile , and the People are Witty and very Crafty .

Angers , the Metropolis , call'd by some Authors the Black City , by reason that all the Houses are cover'd with black Slate , which they dig out of the Quarries adjoyning , is the Seat of a Bishop , a Presidial Court , a Bailliage , a Mint , and a University for the Law ; Founded by Charles V. in 1364. others say , by Lewis XII . in 1398. The Cathedral dedicated to St. Maurice , is a lovely Structure , and the three Steeples over the Portal are wonderful pieces of Architecture , of which that in the middle seems as if it hung in the Air , being supported by the Foundations of the other two . Among the Antiquities of the Treasury , there is to be seen St. Maurice's Sword , and one of the Cisterns , that contain'd some part of the Water which Christ turn'd into Wine at the Galilean Wedding .

The Castle is very Ancient , and built upon a Rock , flank'd with Eighteen large round Towers , and defended with a wide & deep Moat cut out of the Rock , whither many times Prisoners of State are sent , for more Security . The Huguenots surpriz'd this Castle in the Year 1585. but they were soon after expell'd again by the Anjovins . Angers is also remarkable for the University there Erected , according to the King's Letters Patents bearing Date June — 1605. with the same Privileges which the Academy of Paris enjoys , except the Comittimus . The Number of the Academies is fix'd to Thirty , besides the Bishop , the King's Lieutenant , the first President , the King's Proctor in the Presidial Court , and some others who have their Places in the Academy by vertue of their Employments . The City it self is govern'd by a Mayor and Twenty four Aldermen or Sheriffs .

La Flesche stands upon the Loire , about Ten Leagues from Angers to the South . There is in it a very fair College of Jesuits , Founded in the Year 1605. by Henry IV. containing three Courts , and three Piles of Lodging Chambers , sufficient to Lodge the King and all his Court . The Heart of that great Monarch lyes in the Chappel under the Steps ascending to the Altar , as he ordain'd by his Last Will .

Saumur , is applauded by all Forreigners for the Pleasantness of the Situation ; where there is also a Strong Castle and well fortify'd .

Touraine lyes to the North of Anjou , about Thirty Leagues in length , and as many broad . This Country is so fertile , that it 's call'd the Garden of France . The People are good Natur'd , Sincere and Witty . If you will gain their Friendship , you must have a care of being Melancholy : And therefore they are call'd , The Laughers of Tours , Les Rieurs de Tours .

They who have seen Tours the Capital City of this Province agree , that it is one of the most delightful Mansions in the Kingdom . It is the seat of an Archbishop , a Presidial Court , and a Money-Chamber . The Loire , over which there is a Bridge of Nineteen Arches , causes it to abound with all things . There are great Quantities of Silk Stuffs made in this City , which are thence transported all over Europe . The Church of St. Martins is of a vast length , being a Hundred and sixty Foot long , with two and fifty Windows , twenty Columns , nineteen Doors , and three very High Towers . in the Year 1591. there were found in it two Urns full of the Ashes of several Bodies consum'd by Fire .

Amboise stands upon the Loire with a Castle Royal built there by Charles VIII . to signalize the Place of his Birth .

Loches is remarkable for the Castle and a beautiful Forrest adjoyning to it . Lewis XI . enlarg'd this Castle , and added a Dungeon to it , where he kept the Cardinal de Balve a long time : and here it was that Lewis Sforza being confin'd by Lewis XIII . dy'd in his Imprisonment , and was Buri'd in the Church of Nostre Dame , where is to be seen the Tomb of Agnes Surel , Charles VIIth's Mistress .

Chinon is a pleasant City , where Charles the Seventh was retir'd , when Joane of Arc came to find him out and proffer him her Service : And more lately remarkable for being the place where Rablaise was Born .

CHAP. XIX . Of Beausse , which Comprehends Orleanois , Blesois , and Le Pais Chartrain .

IN regard there have been no just Bounds given to this Province , because several Authors , out of a humour joyn the Neighbouring Provinces to it , I shall not undertake to limit the extent of it ; but following the Opinion of those who divide it into Upper , Middle and Lower , which are commonly call'd Le Pais Chartrain , Orleanois , and Blesois ; I shall only observe what is most curious in the Principal Cities of the Province . By the way , you are to observe that this Country is call'd the Granary of France , by reason of the great quantity of Corn which it produces . As for the People , the Chartrains are look'd upon to be Zealous Catholicks : The Orleanois , somewhat addicted to Slandering and Backbiting : The Blesois are said to speak the best French ; yet both the one and the other are very civil and obliging .

Chartres is a City so Ancient , that some Authors affirm it to have been built by the Gomerites , who were sent into Gaul , a little after Noah's time . However , certain it is , that the Druids built this City long before the Birth of Christ , whose Nativity they foretold , and that he should be Born of a Virgin ; which was the reason that Priscus the Roman Governor erected a Temple there , which he consecrated Virgini Pariturae , to the Virgin that should bear a Son . And seeing that St. Paul coming to Athens , met with an Altar dedicated to the Vnknown God , we may the more readily believe that either by some Prophetick Spirit , or by some other Prerogatives only known to Providence , that the Pagans in the midst of their Darkness had some glimmerings of that knowledge which God reserv'd for the Christians . And hence I may observe , that if some Christians were to be met among the Pagans of those Times , there are more Pagans to be found among the Christians at this day .

There is a Well to be seen at Chartres , which is call'd the Saints Well , because the Romans were wont to throw the Primitive Christians into it . There belongs to this City a Presidial Court , together with a Bishops See , under the Archbishop of Paris , ever since 1622. for before it depended upon the Archbishop of Sens. There are to be seen in this City many Pieces of Antiquity , and a great number of Reliques . The Cathedral dedicated to the Holy Virgin is very considerable for the Quire , & the Church under-ground , and the two Steeples are the Admiration of Forreigners . The Streets are fair and straight , the Houses neatly built , the Market-Places large , and the River Eure affords a Water very proper for several sorts of Manufacture . In the Year 1591. Hen. IV. took it from the League , and caus'd himself to be Crown'd in it , by reason that Reims held out in Rebellion .

Orleans is a very considerable City , dignify'd with the Title of Dukedom , and a Bishop's See , under the Archbishop of Paris , with a Presidial Court and a University for the Law , founded by St. Lewis , and confirm'd by Philip the Fair in 1312. All this advances much the Honour of the City , but her greater ▪ Glory to be the Appanage or Childs Portion and Title always belonging to the Second Son of France , much more Exalts the Idea that Forreigners have of her .

This City is seated upon the Banks of the River Loire , in a Country full of Vineyards that furnish it with excellent Wine .

Among the most considerable Buildings is to be seen the Church of the Holy Cross , which the Religionaries ruin'd in the last Age ; but though Henry the Great caus'd it to be rebuilt , he has not restor'd it the Beauty of her Pristin Antiquity . This City was several times Besieg'd , and twice miraculously deliver'd : Once by the Prayers of her Bishop St. Aignan , when Attila King of the Hunns besieg'd it in the Year 450. Long after that the English besieg'd it in the Year 1417. at what time it was succour'd by Joan of Arc , call'd the Maid of Orleans . The Kingdom was then in a Low condition , and upon the very brink of Ruin ; at what time this Maid , who was no more then a poor Shepherdess , born at Dompremi upon the Meuse , receiv'd a Command from God to go and succour Orleans , and to Crown Charles VII . K. of France at Reims . Coming to Court , she made up to the King , whom she had never seen in her life before ; and though he had nothing to be signaliz'd from the rest , in the croud of Courtiers that were in a huddle about him .

She told him of the Command she had receiv'd from Heaven ; They gave her what Men she desir'd , with which she defeated the English and reliev'd Orleans . After that she caus'd the King to be Crown'd at Reims , re-conquer'd all Champagne , and had expell'd the English quite out of France , but that she had the Misfortune to be taken before Compiegne , which she had laid Siege to . When the English had her in their power , they carri'd her to Rouen , and Burnt her for a Witch . She was call'd the Maid or Virgin , because that having been search'd by several Matrons in the presence of the Queen of Sicily , she was found to be so . The Orleanois had so great a Veneration for her Memory , that they set up her Statue upon the Bridge of Orleans .

There are several very fair Country seats in the Parts about Orleans , of which Chambort is the most remarkable , as being built by the Command of Francis I. and the Stairs belonging to it , are look'd upon to be a kind of a Prodigy ; for that when you would go up into the Chamber over head from the Room where you are , instead of ascending , you must descend .

The Loire washes the Walls of Bloise as well as of Orleans . This City is seated in a most delightful Air , which the Pleasure of the Walks about it renders much more Charming , provided the Weather be dry . For otherwise the Soil is so fat , that the least Rain makes the ways almost impassable . There is a very beautiful Castle belongs to it , built upon a Rock , which has been the seat of several Kings . There is also a Pyramid erected upon the Bridge that crosses the River , in Honour of Hen. IV. of France . There are also to be seen some fair Ruins of Roman Antiquity : and Travellers will find a great deal of Pleasure in viewing the Park that belongs to the Royal Castle .

At some distance from the City is to be seen the Castle of Buri , in the Court of which is erected a Pillar , on the top of which stands a Figure of King David in Brass , which was brought from Rome .

The Lake also which is in the Dutchy of Vendosme is very remarkable for this , that the Water abounds in it for seven Years together ; but the next seven Years it lyes quite dry . During which time you may perceive Caverns in it that are extreamly deep . The Country people also know by certain Marks of the Height of the Water , whether the seven Years that the Water is absent will be fruitful or barren .

Amboise is a very ancient City , where Charles VIII . was Born ; and this Prince it was who built the Castle , which is the greatest Ornament of it . In this Castle Lewis XII . instituted the Order of the Knights of St. Michael , the First day of August in the Year 1469. This City is also famous for the Conspiracy there discover'd against Francis II. Catherine de Medicis , his Mother , and all the Court in 1560. And History informs us , that there was a most Bloody Butchery of the Conspirators , among whom there was a great number of Persons of Quality .

CHAP. XX. Of the Island of France .

WHen Forreigners hear talk of the Island of France , unless they cast their Eyes upon the Map , they take it for a Land divided from the rest of the Kingdom . But though it be intercut and intercepted with many Rivers , however they do not make any Island ; only it is a Name which the Province has deriv'd from little Islands which the Seine surrounds in several places , and among the rest , from two within the Circuit of Paris ; which are call'd , the Island of Nostre Dame , and the Island of the Palace . This Island is the most Noble Portion of the most Illustrious , most Potent and most Flourishing Kingdom in the World .

This is what the Author stretches out in Praise of his own Country ; but whether it agree so well with the present Condition of France , is left for the Impartial to judge .

Paris is not only the Capital of this Province , but the Metropolis of the whole Kingdom ; nor is it without good Reason that a certain Author calls it , The Queen of the Cities in the World . It is so ancient , that the Time is not positively known when it began to be built . Some say , that the Foundations of it were laid before the Death of Noah . However it were , Authors agree that it is more ancient then Rome , as it is much larger ; in regard that Rome is not above Twenty three Thousand and fifty Paces in Circuit ; but that Paris is Twenty six Thousand eight Hundred and fifty Paces in Compass , the Suburbs being therein comprehended .

In the Year 1622. the Bishoprick was Erected into an Archbishoprick ; The present Archbishop is one of the most Learned , the most Illustrious , and the most Obliging Prelates in the Kingdom ; Messire Francois de Harlay , Duke and Peer of France ; Commander of the King's Orders ; formerly Archbishop of Rouen , and one whose Merit is Universally known . He has a Seat in the Parlament of Paris , which is the first in the Kingdom ; and which is usually call'd the Parlament of Peers . But besides this Tribunal , there are several others in Paris , as the Chamber of Accompts or of the Exchequer , which was made Sedentary at Paris , at the same time that the Parlament was fix'd ; The Grand Chastelet , where the Provost of Paris sits as a Judge , and may be call'd the Sessions House of Paris . There is also the Conseil du Roy , or the King's Council , which consists of such Persons as he pleases to make Choice of to Consult about Publick and Important Business ; Conseil de Finances , compos'd of a Superintendant , Intendants , Comptrollers , Registers , &c. and the Conseil Privè de Parties , which is Assembled about particular Causes and Controversies between Party and Party : Besides several other Courts and Chambers which we omit for Brevities sake .

The University of Paris is the most famous in all France , Italy , Spain , or Germany ; where all manner of Learning and Sciences are taught . It was founded in the Year 791. by Charlemaign , at the perswasion of the learned Alcuin , who was the first Professor of it . And I am apt to believe , that to justifie the Opinion of M. Balzac , who calls the University of Paris the Latin Country , there needs no more then to tell yee , that it consists of Fifty five Colleges , which are always full of an Infinite Number of Scholars ; and every Body knows that the Sorbonne is a Nursery of Learned Men , and the most rigid College in France .

I do not here propose to my self to make an exact Description of all the Beauties of Paris ; for a Volume in Folio would not contain 'em all . I shall only take notice of those things that render it most remarkable , without entring into a particular Enumeration of all Particulars . The chiefest without doubt is this , that it is the place where the Monarchs of France have all along kept their Courts : and when the Palace of the Louvre , which is joyn'd to that of the Tuilleries , shall be finish'd , with that Order and Magnificence as it is begun , 't will be the most Noble Building in the Universe . There will not be only Lodging sufficient for all the Court ; but also for the Ministers of State , for all the Officers of the Crown , and all Forreign Ambassadors that come to reside in the City .

The Cathedral Church which is dedicated to the Holy Virgin , is a Hundred seventy four Paces in length , and Sixty broad , and a Hundred Paces high . There is to be seen the Old and New Testament engrav'd upon the Stones of the Quire ; and over the Door of the Quire is to be seen a Crucifix , with an Image of our Lady , which are two Master-pieces of Workmanship . The Frontispiece of the Church is adorn'd with three large Portals , over which are One and twenty Figures of the King 's that Reign'd from Childebert , to Philip the August . Two high square Towers serve it instead of a Steeple , which are esteem'd to be the fairest in France . So that 't is commonly said , If you would have a perfect Cathedral , you must joyn the Quire of Bauvaise , the Body of Amiens , the Portal of Reimes , the Steeple of Chartres , and the Towers of Paris . From the bottom to the top of these Towers you ascend with Three hundred eighty nine Steps ; and at the top there is a Gallery that leads from one Tower to the other . To the Church it self belong Seven Doors and Forty five Chappels . But that which is most of all to be wonder'd at is this , that this Vast and Magnificent Structure is built upon Piles driven into the Ground , by reason it stands at the farther end of the Island of the Palace . The Quire , the Body of the Church , and the Chappels are adorn'd with lovely Pictures , and many precious Reliques are preserv'd within those sacred Walls .

The Holy Chappel of the Palace , is a Church which is very remarkable , not only for Antiquities and Reliques , but for the Workmanship of the Building which is supported by Pillars so small , that a Man would wonder how they are able to bear so great a weight . The most famous Reliques that are lockt up within these two Places , are the Crown of Thorns with which Christ was Crown'd : The Table-Cloath upon which he Supp'd with his Apostles : The Spunge , and Head of the Spear wherewith his Side was pierc'd ; Some of the Virgins Milk , Moses's Rod , a piece of St. John Baptist's Head , &c. In short , not to engage my self to give an account of all the Churches in particular ; I shall only tell yee that Paris contains One and fifty Parishes ▪ of which the most part consist of Twenty five , Thirty and Thirty five thousand Communicants ; Two and fifty Monasteries , Seventy eight Nunneries , and Thirty Hospitals .

If we add to this , that there are in Paris Eight hundred and thirty Streets , Twelve Suburbs , of which St. German des Prez alone is larger then many Capital Cities ; Ten Bridges , Seventy three Piazza's and Market-Places , though de la Croix says but Twenty five , and a great Number of Palaces or Noble-Men's Houses , 't will be no wonder to us what Charles V. said , That he had seen in France a World , a City and a Village : The World was Paris ; the City was Orleans , and the Village was Poitiers . It would be no difficult thing to Arm in Paris Two hundred Thousand Men for the Service of the State ; for an Army might be rais'd only of the People that wear Liveries , from Eighteen to Thirty Years of Age.

The Bastille is a Castle built near St. Anthony's Gate for the Security of the Arsenal , which is one of the best provided in Europe . This Fortress is flank'd with Four Towers , surrounded with Moats , and furnish'd with Good Artillery ; and is the Place where many times Prisoners of State are secur'd .

The Royal Hospital for the Infirm , is a House which Lewis XIV . caus'd to be built for the Entertainment of Officers and Souldiers who are not in a Condition to bear Arms , as having been Maim'd in the King's Service . And there may be conveniently Lodg'd in this Hospital Four Thousand Men , who keep as exact Guard within the Place , as if they were in a Garrison .

Now in regard that Paris lyes in the Heart of the Kingdom , there is no need of keeping any Garrison in it . But because it is the general Concourse of all sorts of People , and for that it frequently happens that Rogues and Night-Robbers wait their Opportunities , and generally practise their Villanies in Places of great resort ; the City therefore keeps a standing Watch of Two hundred and fifty Men , part Horse and part Foot , which are divided into several Quarters to walk the Rounds and ride the Patroule . But in regard the Criminals make it their Business to avoid 'em , the Citizens and others are frequently set upon after the Watch is past , not being able to help themselves . 'T is true , that in my Opinion it were an easie thing to secure Paris against the Robberies and Murthers which are too frequently there committed , with little Charge to the City ; but it would be a rashness in me to go about to instruct the most understanding Magistrates in the World .

I have already mention'd , that in Paris there are Seventy and three Publick Piazza's or Market-Places . I shall only speak of those three which are the most Modern , and which are also the most considerable . The first is call'd the Royal Place , which is in that part where formerly stood the Palais des Tournelles , or of the Parlamental Court for Criminal Causes , near St. Antonies-Street . 'T is very regular , and environ'd with Thirty six Pavillions no less proportionable , and rail'd quite round with Iron Spikes on all the four sides . All the foreparts of the Houses round the Piazza are supported with Pillars that make a kind of a Gallery or Portico , under which People may walk at all times shelter'd from the Sun and the Rain . Hen. IV. began it , but in regard it was not finish'd till in the Reign of Lewis XIII . they set up a Brass Statue of King Lewis , omitting his Predecessor , Erected the 27th . of Septemb. 1639. upon a Pedestal of white Marble , with Inscriptions on the four Sides .

The Second is the Place de Victoires in the Parish of St. Eustachius , at the End of the Street des Petits Champs ; which some People know better by Mazarin's Quarter . Messire Francois d'Aubusson , Duke de Fueillade , built this Piazza , as an Eternal Monument of his Fidelity and Zeal for the Honour of Lewis XIV . in the Year 1686. and in his Memory Erected in the Middle of it , the King's Statue of Gilt Brass .

The Groupe of this Statue is compos'd of three Figures : The one represents the King standing upright in his Royal Robes : The other Victory , which stands behind , having one foot upon a Globe , from whence she raises her self , and puts a Crown upon the King's Head . The Third is a Cerberus , which the King tramples under foot ; alluding to the Triple Alliance , which the King made a shift to break by the help of a Kind Neighbour . The King's Statue is Thirteen foot high : and the Groupe with a Hercules's Club , a Lions Skin , and a Helmet weighs above Thirty thousand weight . The whole is very neatly Gilt , and rais'd upon a Pedestal of vein'd Marble , two and twenty foot high , adorn'd with four Bodies of Brass in Chains , with Inscriptions denoting the Subjection to which the King has reduc'd his Enemies . At the four Entrances into the Place stands a Brass Lanthorn Gilt , into which there are Candles put every Night to enlighten the Place . Which Lanthorns are sustain'd by three Columns of Marble , adorn'd with Base Reliefs of Brass which represent the King's Victories .

Monsieur de la Fueillade foreseeing that Time brings all things to ruin , and defaces the noblest Structures ; and being desirous to preserve this Monument entire to perpetuity , made a Deed of Conveyance of all his Estate to the present Duke of Fueillade , & the Male Heirs of his Body , and for want of such Issue to the next of Kin , that bore the Name and Arms of Aubusson , and for want of such to the City of Paris , upon Condition that whoever inherit shall every Five and twenty Years reguild the Statue , Lanthorns and Ornaments at their own Costs and Charges , keep all the several Pieces of Workmanship in repair , and find Candles for the Lanthorns to enlighten the Piazza .

The Third is a very fair and large Piazza very like the Royal Piazza , only that it has not Arches round about in form of a Portico . It joyns to St. Honor's Street facing the Convents of the Brown Mendicants and the Capuchins ; and runs as far as the New Street of the Little Fields . M. de Louvois began it , but since his Death , the Buildings have been discontinu'd . 'T is call'd the Piazza of the Conquests , and was design'd for the setting up the King's Statue on Horseback , which is already finish'd ; and the Ornaments that are to accompany it , are to set forth the Glorious Actions of that Monarch .

And since I am speaking of the Publick Places where the Statues of our Kings are to be seen , I must not omit the Statue of Henry the Great erected upon Pont Neuf , just against the Dauphin Piazza . It is of Brass , upon a Horse of the same Metal , rais'd upon a Pedestal of Marble and Jasper , adorn'd with Base Reliefs , and Inscriptions in Letters of Gold , denoting the Principal Victories of that Great Monarch .

Pont Neuf , standing over the Point of the Island of the Palace , was begun in 1578. under the Reign of Henry III. but was not finish'd till 1604. when Henry IV. was come to the Crown , and had in part appeas'd the Troubles of his Kingdom . It consists of two Bridges , which the Point of the Island joyns together , supported by Twelve Arches . On both sides of this Bridge upon an Elevation of about three foot , stand a great Number of Brokers Shops , which do not hinder , but that four Coaches may go a-breast in the middle . It is also adorn'd with a House that stands upon Piles , which is commonly call'd La Samaritaine , because of the Figure of the Samaritan Woman which is there to be seen , together with that of Christ , who instructs her that there is a Water more wholesom then that which she seeks for .

Within these few Years there was another Bridge built much after the fashion of Pont Neuf , over against the Palace of the Tuilleries , which is now call'd Pont Royal , the Royal Bridge , and stands where the Red Bridge stood before . There are moreover several other Bridges very considerable , as the Change Bridge , St. Michael's , the Bridge of Nostredame , and Pont Marie ; which have Houses on both sides , so high that they cannot be perceiv'd to stand over the Water .

The French Academy is become so famous over Europe , that all Men have a particular Esteem for all the Learned Men who have the Honour to be Members of it . It was not Confirm'd by the King's Edict till the Year 1635. though it were set up five or six Years before , and was instituted by Chance . For that in the Year 1620. certain Learned Persons that Lodg'd in several parts of the City , resolv'd to meet once a Week at one of their Houses by Turns , that so they might with more ease confer together . And this was that which gave a Beginning to this Academy , which was at first under the Protection of Cardinal Richlieu . Now the Number of the Academies is fix'd to Forty .

Besides this Academy , Paris has also Three others ; The Academy Royal of Painting , which owes the Beginning of it to M. de Noyers Secretary of State , and Surveyor of the King's Buildings in the Reign of Lewis XIII . They met at first in the Palais Royal , but were afterwards remov'd into the Galleries of the Louvre , at what time it was settl'd by a Decree of Council in the Year 1648. The Academy Royal of Sciences , compos'd of a great number of Learned Physicians , Philosophers , and Mathematicians , settl'd by Mr. Colbert , Minister of State , at the Sollicitation of M. du Clos , and the Abbot of Bonzaisi . And for the sake of these Learned Men it is , that the King has erected an Observatory in the Suburb of St. James , for the making new Experiences , and discovery of new Secrets in Physick and Mathematicks . And lastly , The Royal Academy of Architecture , settl'd by the same Mr. Colbert in 1671.

As for the Divertisements of Paris ▪ no body can be ignorant that there are wanting neither Exquisite Voices for Opera's , nor good Actors for French and Italian Comedies ; nor any sort of excellent Company ; whether for Conversation , Play , or Courtship . And for Places of Meeting and Walking , there are the Tuilleries , the Queen's Court , and the Groves of Boulogne and Vincennes .

But I perceive this Chapter has carried me too far , which obliges me to omit a Thousand Wonderful Things which Paris encloses , and only to tell Forreigners ▪ That they can never be able to understand the Beauty and Magnificence of it , till they have made a considerable stay in the Place ; and that the most elevated Idea's which I could give 'em , by a more Copious Description and better Study'd , would come short of what they really are .

CHAP. XXI . Of the Places adjoyning to Paris .

AFter what I have said of the Grandeur , Beauty and Magnificence of Paris , 't will be no hard matter to believe that the parts about it are extreamly well peopled ; There being Ten Thousand Boroughs , Villages or Castles within Ten Leagues round it . I shall only say something of the most Considerable places , not much caring for the Criticisms of those who shall censure me for not reporting faithfully all their Beauties . For I declare to 'em before hand , that I shall not engage to satisfie 'em with a Piece of Perfection . For in short , if a Man should go about to examine all the Wonders , Magnificence and Riches of the Royal Seats not far from Paris , it would be enough to dazle his Eyes ; nor can any Man Contemplate 'em without being ravish'd into Extasie .

Since the Reign of Lewis the Just , Versailles was no more then an Ordinary Castle , consisting of a Body of Lodgings , accompani'd with two Wings , and ending in four Pavillons . But in 1661. the King proposing to himself to make some stay there , enlarg'd this Building with another much more Magnificent . At length in 1678 , the Old Castle not appearing worthy the State and Grandeur of so Great a Monarch , it was pull'd down , to make room for another more Superb : for the rearing of which , all the most Famous Masters in Europe for Architecture , Sculpture and Painting were sent for to display their utmost Skill . So that the Magnificence of every Apartment out-does whatever there is of most rare in Forreign Countries : Even the Stables of Versailles are more Magnificent and Nobler then the Palaces of several Princes of Europe . There is a City built on two sides of the Castle with extraordinary Symmetry . The Castle is of so large Extent , that not only all the Princes and Princesses of the Blood have Large and Convenient Lodgings within it , but also all the Ministers and Secretaries of State , and a great number of other Lords .

The Soil about Versailles is naturally dry and unpleasant . But Lewis the Great , has enforc'd Nature , as I may so say , to be more favourable to that Part which he had made choice of for his Residence . For the Earth not only produces all the Plants , the Fruits , the Flowers that grow in the most fertile places in the World , but by the benefit of the Aqueducts this place abounds so much in Water , that you would take it rather for a Sea , when all the Engins play , then for a Garden of Pleasure . And what is more particular and almost incredible , those Engins throw the Water up into the Air in different Figures . You shall perceive Galleries of Water , Triumphal Arches , Pavillions , Arbors , Theatres , Mountains , &c. The fairest Receptacles for Water , are those of Ceres , Flora , Apollo and Bacchus . The Banqueting-Hall , the Labyrinth , the Walk of Water , are Machines worthy the Curiosity of Strangers .

All this Water is drawn from the Sein , by the Assistance of a great number of Pumps ranvers'd , and carry'd to Versailles by the only Engin which is to be seen in Europe ; being the Invention of the Sieurs de Ville and Ranequin . This Piece of Workmanship which may contend with the Seven Wonders of the World , consists of Fourteen Wheels that have Eight and twenty Motions , which are caus'd by Twenty Chains , and Eight Water Engins , with which they force up the Water into an Aqueduct of Thirty six Arches seated upon the Top of a Mountain , and Five hundred and seventy Foot from the side of the River . All these Motions work Night and Day , there being no more then 18 Men , in three different Divisions to look after 'em . All people admire the Effects of the King's Glory and Grandeur , and the large extent of the Genius of those Artists who invented this Engin to the highest degree of Perfection .

They who will visit the Apartments of Versailles , the Gardens , the Park , the Place where all sorts of Strange Creatures are kept ; the Grotto's , the Labyrinths , and the Castle of Trianon , which is a real Jewel , all wrought within and without with Marble of divers colours , have need of Eight days time ; neither will that suffice to view all these Wonders that surpass Imagination .

The Castle of Merli , but a small League from Versailles , is another Royal Seat , whither the King goes usually twice a Month , to spend two or three days ; during which time , he gives Audience to no body , unless it be to his Ministers , and those that are sent for to Council , which his Majesty holds there , concerning the most Important Affairs of State .

Next to Versailles , St. German on Laie may dispute for Priority before all the other Royal Houses . This place is famous for the Birth of Lewis XIV . upon the 5th . of Septemb. 1638. He was baptiz'd in the Old Castle the 21st . of April , 1643.

Besides the Regularity and Magnificence of the Castle , there are the Gardens and Grotto's to be seen , adorn'd with a Thousand Figures of Water . Among the rest , in one of these Grotto's there is an Orpheus playing upon his Harp , and with the motion of his Head and his Body keeping time to his Instrument . He is also attended by a great number of Beasts that follow him , as being enchanted with the Melody of his Harp ; which also draws after him Rocks , Trees and Plants . There is likewise Paradise , Hell , the Sea , and the Four Elements so livelily represented , that you would think your self in some Enchanted Place .

About a League from St. Germans , upon one side of Paris , you meet with the Traytors Wood , divided into two parts by a spacious High-Way . The Branches which you break off from one side of this Wood sink ; but those which you break off from the other side swim in the Water . In this Wood it was that the Perfidious Ganelon contriv'd his Treason against the Peers of France , and all the great Captains of Charlemagne , which was put in Execution at the Battel of Roncevaux , so fatal to France , in the Passage of the Pyreneans .

St. Clou is another very beautiful Royal Seat , belonging to Monsieur , the King 's only Brother . It stands upon a Hill near the Banks of the River Seine , almost half way between Paris and Versailles . The Paintings are very Noble , the Furniture very Rich , and the Cabinet of China ; wherein there are an infinite number of Curiosities , and vast Riches , is worthy the Grandeur and Magnificence of the Prince to whom it belongs .

As for the Castle of Madrit , Francis I. caus'd it to be built in the Wood of Boulogne , in memory of his being carry'd a Prisoner into Spain ; to let the Spaniards understand , that he held it for no shame to have been made a Prisoner of War at the Head of his Army ; which had never befall'n him , had he contented himself to Command in his Cabinet , as the Kings of Spain do . They who believe this Castle to be built after the same form as that , where this Monarch was kept in durance , are much deceiv'd ; for it is little or nothing like it . It is nothing so magnificent now as formerly ; and the little care that is tak'n to repair it , shews that the King has no great Fancy for the Seat , nor minds whether it go to ruin or no.

The Castle of Vincennes is considerable , as being the Place where Prisoners of War of great Quality are Confin'd ; and many times Prisoners of State ; witness the Princes of Conde and Conti , and the Duke of Longueville , in the Time of Cardinal Mazarin . It is very large , and flank'd with Eight great Towers . Here are kept the Chains of the Streets of Paris ; which Charles VI. took away after he had chastiz'd that City for her Rebellion .

Fountainbleau , is another Royal Seat , so call'd from the great number of Springs in that place . It lyes about Twelve Leagues from Paris : and in regard it is a Country proper for Hunting , the Court spends a great part of the Autumn in this Place . This Castle is very large , as being said to contain Nine hundred Chambers , Halls , Cabinets or Galleries ; where Art has quite exhausted her self to render every thing worthy the Residence of our Monarchs . At Fontainbleau it was where Marshal Biron was disarm'd by the King's Order ; and where Cardinal Perron and the Sieur du Plessis-Mornai met in the Presence of Hen. 4. to Dispute upon Matters of Religion ; which drew thither the most Learned of both Parties : and 't is said , that when the two Disputants could not agree , the King addressing himself to the Cardinal , ask'd him , Whether all those that were separated from the Roman Church were damn'd ? His Eminency and the rest of the Catholick Doctors , assur'd him , That there was nothing more certain . After which , the K. demanding from those of the Protestant Party , whether it were a Point of their Doctrine , that there was no Salvation for those that were not of their Communion ? They made answer , 'T was none of their Opinion ; for that they thought the Mercy of God might extend to all Men. That being so , reply'd the King , ' t is my Judgment to choose the Certainty before the Vncertainty : and so turn'd Roman Catholick .

Chantilli is a fair Seat belonging to Monsieur the Prince , whither the Court often goes for the Recreation of Hunting . It is an Epitome of Art and Nature . 'T is observ'd , that Hen. IV. being to Answer a Letter which he had receiv'd from the K. of Spain , cramm'd full of Titles , not only of the Kingdoms which the Kings of Spain , and their Ancestors possess'd , but of those they never had ; as also of Territories in the New World , not yet discover'd ; took upon him no other Titles , but only Citizen of Paris , and Lord of Chantilli . And there is much the same Story of Francis I. who writeing to Charles V. fill'd the first Page with only these words repeated , King of France , King of France ; adding only at the lower end , Lord of Vauvre and Gonesse .

I shall say nothing of an Infinite Number of other Beautiful Seats and Houses of Pleasure in the Parts adjoyning to Paris , as Ruel , Meudon , Conflans , Seaux , &c. which are all fit for the Entertainment of Kings , whether in respect of their Bigness or Magnificence . It remains that I now say something of St. Denis , the Burying-place of our Monarchs ; for which I design a particular Chapter . Only before I conclude this , I must not omit to tell yee , that there is at Alincourt near Paris , the Tomb of a Mother and her Children that gave Occasion to this Epitaph .

Here lyes the Son , here lyes the Mother , Here lyes the Daughter with the Father , Here lyes the Sister and the Brother , Here lyes the Husband , here the Wife ; All but Three Body 's , on my Life .

To Expound this Riddle , you must know , That a certain Young Stripling importun'd his Mothers Maid to grant him you may guess what ; who told her Mistress , the Mother of the Young Man and a Widow . She order'd the Servant to give him a Meeting in her Chamber , where the Mother put her self in place of the Maid ; and having had the Company of her Son without discovering who she was , at Nine Months end was brought to Bed of a Daughter ; which she put out till she came to such an Age , and then sent for her home . The Son in the mean time had been Travelling for several Years , but then returning Home and finding the Young Virgin , which his Mother said was an Orphan , to be very pretty , Marry'd her ; and so of his Daughter and his Sister made her his Wife . The Young Couple dy'd before the Mother , who then discover'd the Secret , and would needs be Interr'd in the same Tomb.

CHAP. XXII . Of St. Denis .

ST. Denis is a small City in the Island of France , Six Miles from Paris . It was formerly call'd Catuliaca ; but was call'd St. Denis , from St. Denis the Areopagite , who being Beheaded at Montmartre , carry'd his Head in his Hands as far as Catuliaque ; that is to say , about a League and a half . King Dagobert Erected a very stately Church in this place , Three hundred Foot in Length , Two hundred Broad , and Fourscore Foot High , supported by Sixty Pillars . 'T is now a Royal Abby of the Benedictin Order ; wherein are kept all the Ornaments for the Coronation of our Kings ; which do not a little augment the Lustre and Riches of the Treasury of this Abby . The Church is also Famous for being the Burying-Place of our Monarchs , and of all the Royal Family . Here follows a Catalogue of the Kings and Queens whose Tombs are to be seen in the Church of St. Denis .

Dagobert , who dy'd in the Year 638 Clovis the Second . 656 Clotaire III. 664 Thieri I. 690 Clotaire IV. 720 Childeric III. a Monk . Pepin the Short . 768 Charles the Bald. 877 Lewis III. 882 Charlemane 884 Eudes . 898 Hugh Capet . 997 Robert . 1033 Henry I. 1060 Philip I. 1131 Lewis VI. 1137 Philip II. 1223 Lewis VIII . 1226 Lewis IX . Sirnam'd the Saint . 1270 Philip III. 1285 Philip IV. 1314 Lewis X. 1316 John I. 1316 Philip V. 1322 Charles IV. 1328 Philip VI. de Valois . 1350 John II. 1364 Charles V. 1380 Charles VI. 1422 Charles VII . 1461 Charles VIII . 1498 Lewis XII . 1515 Francis I. 1547 Henry II. 1559 Francis II. 1560 Charles IX . 1574 Henry III. 1589 Henry IV. 1610 Lewis XIII . 1643 A Catalogue of the Queens that lye Buried at St. Denis's . Nantild , the Wife of Dagobert . Bertha , the Wife of Pepin . Hermintrude , the Wife of Charles the Bald. Constance , the Wife of Robert . Margaret , the Wife of St. Lewis . Isabel , the Wife of Philip III. Joane of Eureux , the Wife of Charles IV. Joane , the Wife of Philip VI. Joane , Queen of Navarre . Joane , Wife of Charles VI. Marie , Wife of Charles VII . Clandia , Wife of Francis I. Blanch , Second Wife of Philip VI. Ann of Bretaigne , Wife of Lewis XII . Catherine de Medicis , Wife of Hen. II. Margaret , Queen of Navarre . Mary de Medicis , Wife of Hen. IV. Ann of Austria , Wife of Lewis XIII . Henrietta Maria , Queen of England . Mary Teresa of Austria , Wife of Lewis XIV . And , Marie Ann , Christina , Victoria , Dauphiness of France , who deceas'd in 1690.

I do not here insert the Tombs of the Children of France , nor those of the Princes and Princesses of the Blood , nor of those of the Bodies of the Saints that lye in this Church , for fear of being too tedious ; believing moreover , that the Reader will take more delight to peruse the following Inventory of the most remarkable things that are to be seen in the Treasury of St. Denis's , which makes so great a noise in the World , and which alone draws thither such an infinite number of Forreigners .

Before I ascend into the Room wherein this Treasure is lockt up , there is to be seen above the Chief Altar , a Cross of Gold seven foot high , enrich'd with Pretious Stones and Oriental Pearl .

A Table of Gold five foot long , and three foot high , in the middle of which is to be seen our Saviour in Relief , together with six Apostles and four Angels , the whole of Gold , enrich'd with Pretious Stones and Oriental Pearls , a Sea Agate , a Topaze , and two admirable Grenates .

Another Cross of Gold six foot high , adorn'd with Pretious Stones .

So soon as you come into the Great Room , entring in upon the Right , you meet with in the first Cup-board or Press ,

A great Cross of massy Gold cover'd with Rubies , Saphirs , Emeraulds , and Oriental Pearls ; and under the Croison , a piece of Wood , which as they say , is a piece of the Real Cross , about a foot and a half long .

A Shrine of Gold enclosing a Crucifix made of the same Wood , by the hands of Clement III.

The Oratory of Philip the August , enrich'd with an Infinite Number of Pretious Stones , which encloses Thirty four sorts of Reliques ; among which are reck'nd one of the Thorns of our Saviour's Crown ▪ The Spunge , with which they gave him Vinegar and Gall ; A piece of his Garment ; A Viol full of the Blood and Water which issu'd from his Side ; and some of the Myrrh which the Magi offer'd .

One of the Nails , with which our Saviour was fasten'd to the Cross .

And Image of the Holy Virgin ▪ gilt and enamell'd , which holds in one hand a Shrine containing her own Hair , and some pieces of her Garments .

Another of the same , holding another Casket , wherein are preserv'd the Linnen made use of in Burying our Saviour .

An Image of the same Metal of St. John the Evangelist , with one of his Teeth .

A Shrine of Gold , containing as they assure us , the Bones of several Saints .

An Arm-bone of St. Eustachius .

Such another Bone of St. Simeon in a Shrine of Gold enchac'd with Pretious Stone .

One of the Pitchers of Cana in Galilee .

The two Crowns made use of at the Coronation of Hen. IV. one of which is of Gold , the other enamell'd .

The Scepter , and the Hand of Justice in Silver , of the same King .

This Hand of Justice , is a hand at the top of a Rod , held by the King as a Mark of Soveraignty .

Two costly Mitres of Abbots ; one of which is adorn'd with an Embellishment of Pretious Stones upon a Ground of Pearls .

A fair Crosier , once an Abbots , and a Battoon of Silver gilt , enrich'd with Pretious Stones .

In the Second Press or Ambrie .

An enamell'd Image of St. Hilary , enrich'd with Pretious Stones and Pearls .

A great Cross of massy Gold , enrich'd with Grenates , Saphirs and Pearls .

A Shrine of Silver gilt , with a Finger Flesh and Bone , of St. Bartholomew .

Another of the same , with the Shoulder Bone , as they say , of John the Baptist .

A Cross silver gilt , with a piece of the real Cross .

An Image silver gilt of St. Denis of Areopagus .

Another of the same of St. Nicholas .

Another of the same of St. Katherine .

An Eye of St. Leger , Bishop of Autun .

A Shrine silver gilt , enclosing the Reliques of the Prophet Isaiah .

Another of the same , with a Bone of St. Pantaleon .

Another of Chrystal , with the Hair and Garments of St. Margerie .

Another of Silver , containing the Leprosie which Christ took from the Leper mention'd in the Gospel .

An Eagle of Gold enrich'd with Pretious Stones , which serv'd for a Clasp for K. Dagobert's Cloak .

Dagobert's Scepter of Gold enamell'd .

An Oriental Jacinth .

The two Crowns of Lewis XIII . the one of Gold , the other enamell'd .

An enamell'd Crown made use of at the Funeral Pomp of Ann of Austria .

An Image of our Lady in Ivory , enrich'd with Pretious Stones .

A Missal in Manuscript , the Cover of which is enrich'd with Plates of Gold .

A Manuscript of the Four Evangelists , written above Eleven hundred Years ago , in Letters of Gold and Silver , upon Purple Vellum .

In the Third Ambrie .

The Head of St. Denis enrich'd with Pretious Stones : His Cross of Wood all cover'd with Gold and Precious Stones , as also his Travelling Stick .

The right Hand , Flesh and Bone , of the Apostle St. Thomas , in a Shrine of Gold , enrich'd with Pearls , Rubies , and great Pearls .

An enamell'd Shrine , where through a Christal you see the Lower Chap of St. Lewis .

The Crown of the same St. Lewis , of massy Gold , beset with Pretious Stones .

A Seal of Gold with a Saphir Stone , wherein his Image is engrav'd with these Letters , S. L.

A Sword which he brought in his first Expedition from the Holy Land .

A wooden Cup of Tamarisk wherein he drank .

A Shrine which he carried along with him in his Expeditions , with a Bone of St. Denis .

His Hand of Justice , of Silver gilt .

The Clasp of his Cloak of the same , beset with Pretious Stones .

A Chalice of Oriental Agate , with a great number of Pretious Stones .

The Effigies of the Queen of Sheba upon a Brouch of Agate .

A Gondola of Agate and Onyx .

The two Crowns of Lewis XIV . the one of Gold , the other enamell'd .

In the Fourth Ambrie .

A great Image , Silver gilt of St. Benedict , extreamly Rich.

A great Cross of massy Gold , cover'd with Pearl , and enrich'd with large Saphirs .

The Oratory of Charlemain , all of Gold , where the multitudes of Saphirs , Emraulds , Agates , and Oriental Pearls that glitter in it , vastly enhaunce the Price of it . This Oratory preserves an Arm of St. George .

The Crown of Charlemain , all of Gold , and embellish'd like the Oratory . This Crown is carry'd to Reims , at the Coronation of our Kings ; with the Scepter , the Hand of Justice , the Spurs , the Clasp for the Mantle ▪ the Book of Ceremonies , and Prayers for the Coronation . All the Ornaments are of that Richness as befits the Use which is made of 'em .

The Crown of Gold that Joane of Eureux were , enrich'd with Rubies , Saphirs and Pearl , serves for the Coronation of the Queens that is Perform'd at St. Denis .

Several Vessels of Gold , Chrystal , and other Materials very Rich.

The Portraiture of Nero upon an Agate ; which is look'd upon as one of the Noblest Pieces of Curiosity in the Treasury .

In other Cupboards in General .

There are moreover Four other Ambries , which do not contain such vast Wealth , but only Reliques or Antiquities ; of which these are the most considerable .

An enamell'd Shrine , embellish'd with Pretious Stones , wherein lyes the Body of St. Lewis .

Judas's Lanthorn ; the Sword of the Maid of Orlean's ; a Unicorn's Horn , seven foot long ; and a Stool of Copper , which , as they say , was Dagobert's Throne .

Beside all these things of which I have given you a Catalogue , there are several other things very remarkable , which I insert not here , for fear of being Tedious ; and therefore to conclude this Chapter , I shall only inform the Reader , that the Monks who shew the Treasury , very distinctly give an accompt of every thing , and tell you the time and the occasion that all these Curiosities were brought to this Place .

CHAP. XXIII . Of Normandy , and the Country of Maine .

NOrmandy is a very fair large Province of France , with the Title of a Dukedom , bounded Eastward by the Island of France and Picardy ; by the Ocean to the North ; by Bretagne to the West , and Beausse and le Maine to the South . The length of it is Seventy two Leagues ( de la Croix says 73. from Aumale to the Coast of Courantin ) and Thirty in breadth ( 37. says de la Croix from Alenson to the City of Eu ) . The Name of it is absolutely German ; for Noort-Man , signifies a Man of the North : so that the Name it bears was given it by the People of the North , that Pipirated upon the Seas , and afterwards settl'd themselves in Normandy , and ravag'd the Country to the very Walls of Paris . William the Norman laid Claim to England , and Invading it under Pretence of Title , his Successors Kings of England , became Masters of Normandy . But Philip the August united it to the Crown of France , & Charles the Seventh expell'd the English .

This Province being the most Northern part of the Kingdom is also the Goldest . It is divided into Upper and Lower . It abounds in all sorts of Fruit , especially Pears and Apples , of which they make Cider , and which serves 'em instead of Wine ; for Wine they have none but what they fetch from the Neighbouring Provinces . As for Corn , it produces more then suffices the Inhabitants . The Dyers also have their Madder and Woad from thence . The Humour of the Common People does 'em no great Credit : They are look'd upon to have more defects then Perfections .

The Normans are accus'd to be very cholerick , litigious upon every Trifle , and not to be too great Slaves to their words , when their Interest is concern'd . So then , when you deal with a Norman , the first Question is , whether he will insist upon the Privileges of the Country ; that is to say , whether he will go from his word , when the Bargain is concluded . And therefore when a Man has fail'd of his word , 't is a common thing to say , He is a Norman . But the Gentry and Persons well educated , who have a share of Honour , are to be excepted out of this Number . Moreover , they have as great an Antipathy against the Bretons , as the Bretons have against them .

Rouen is the Principal City of Normandy , dignify'd with an Archbishop's See , and the Seat of a Parliament , a Chamber of Accompts , an Audit of the Treasurers of France , a Chamber of Money and a Presidial Court . The Parliament had that Name given it first of all by Francis I. in 1515. whereas before it was call'd the Court of Exchequer , founded by Philip the Fair in 1286. This City is seated upon the Banks of the River Seine , on the one side , on the other in a Valley environ'd with Hills thick spread with Wood. From the East come little Rivers , which run through the Town , keep the Streets clean , and after they have turn'd several Mills , fall into the Seine . But the nearness of it to the Sea , is that which makes it a Town of great Trade when Commerce is open . Among those things which it has most remarkable , we are to admire the Bridge of Boats over the Seine , Two hundred and seventy Paces in length . For though it be all Pav'd , and appear as firm as a Bridge of Stone ; yet it rises and sinks according to the Ebbing and Flowing of the Sea . This Bridge was made to supply the want of another Stone Bridge of 15 Arches that was ruin'd , and was accompted one of the Fairest Bridges in France .

The Castle is fortified with Eleven great Towers , which all Vessels outward or inward bound , are engag'd to salute with Three Guns at a time . The Fortifications are Regular and of good defence .

The Cathedral is consecrated to the Holy Virgin ; wherein are to be seen several Mausoleum's of the Dukes of Normandy , with a Treasury in the Vestry ; which was much more considerable before the Huguenots plunder's it during the Civil Wars of the last Age. There are three Towers that serve instead of a Steeple ; one of which is so high , that you must ascend Five hundred and fifty Steps , before you come at the great Bell , which is call'd George d' Amboise , by reason it was made by the Order of the Cardinal d' Amboise . Over the Portal of this Cathedral is to be seen a Triumphal Arch , where Henry IV. is represented chasing the Lions and the Wolves out of his Sheep-Fold ; the League enchain'd and gnawing her Chains ; and the King of Spain beholding all these Trophies with a Pensive and Melancholy look .

There are very fair Structures at Rouen , as well Sacred as Prophane , which are marks of her Antiquity , and Strangers always go to see the Place where the English burnt the Maid of Orleance .

Normandy is blest with several other good Ports ; as that of St. Valeri , which is a very Commodious Haven . But Diepe is much the Stronger . This City is seated at the Foot of the Mountains from whence the River of Arques takes its rise ; which separates the Suburbs from the City . The Castle of Pollet Commands the Haven , and a Cittadel defends the other side of the Town . The Streets are large , adorn'd with several Churches and Market-Places . The Haven brings it a good Trade , and the Seamen have gain'd a Reputation in the World ; for that the Best Sea-Compasses , and the most Exact Quadrants , are there said to be made . The Inhabitants also were the first that wrought in Ivory and Tortoise-Shell . They are also Excellent and very quick at the Riming Exercises , call'd Jeux Floraux , where the best doer is rewarded with an Eglantine , the Second with a Marigold in Silver ; which Sports are usual in this Town at Christmas , and the Festival of the Assumption .

Havre de Grace is also a considerable Sea Town , situated at the Mouth of the River Seine , and is lookt upon to be one of the Havens in France , upon St. George's Channel . Francis I. began to fortifie it ; but the Huguenots having seiz'd it , deliver'd it up to the English in 1562. from whom Charles IX . retook it ; Lewis XIII . added a Cittadel to it , flank'd with four Bastions : But Lewis XIV . compleated the Work , and has made it impregnable by regular Fortifications . In times of Peace with England and Holland , it drives a great Trade .

Evreux is a very ancient City , dignify'd with a Bishop's See , a Bailliage and a Presidial Court , and adorn'd with a good number of Churches and Religious Houses ; among which , the Abbies of St. Thurin , and St. Saviour are very remarkable . Several Princes of the Blood , and other great Lords , have been Counts of Evreux ; and it is said , that Walter and Robert d' Evreux Earls of Essex in England , came originally from this place .

Caen , seated upon the River Orne , is not so famous for the Antiquity of it , as for the Privileges and Variety of Tribunals that it enjoys . For it is dignify'd with a Presidial Court , a Bailliage , an Election , a Generality , an Audit of the Finances , and a University for the Civil and Canon Law there founded in 1411. by Hen. VI. King of England . It has had the same Fate with other Cities of Normandy , as having suffer'd very much during the Troubles that shook the French Monarchy in the 16th Age. However the Town-House built upon St. Peter's Bridge is a noble Structure adorn'd with four large Towers . The People boast of their Fidelity to their Prince , for which reason they are permitted to bear the Three Flower-de-Luces in their Arms. William the Norman King of England , lyes Buried in St. Stephen's Abby , which was one of his own Foundations .

Mount St. Michael , is a Town built at the Foot of a Mountain , on the top of which stands a Church and an Abby consecrated to St. Michael the Arch-Angel . For the Story goes , that in the Year 708. St. Michael appear'd to Aubert Bishop of Avranches , and told him , 'T was the Will of God that a Church should be built upon the Hill , and dedicated to him in particular . Upon the same Mount stands also a very fair Castle . The flowing in of the Sea makes a perfect Island of it , covering for near a League together all the Land between the Mount and the firm Land ; which the Ebb soon after leaves dry agen . Nevertheless , they who Travel thither , must be very exact in observing the Time of the Motion of the Water ; for if they should be surpriz'd in that sandy Plain , they would run the risque of being Drown'd ; which many times falls out . This place is famous for the resort of Pilgrims to St. Michael ; and for the Sand of which they make Salt , by straining the Sea-water through it . In 966 , Richard I founded the Abby of the Benedictins , and his Son Richard II. finish'd the Church .

Maine is a Province dignify'd with the Title of a Dutchy , border'd by Normandy to the North ; by Perche , Vendomois and La Beausse to the East ; Bretagne to the West ; and by Tourain and Anjou to the South . This Province is fruitful in Wine , Corn , Fruit and Cattle ; and has some Iron Mines . The same defects are attributed to the Manceaux , as to the Normans : and as to their exactness in keeping their words , it is become a Proverb , That a Manceau is worth a Norman and a half .

The Capital City of this Province is Mans , seated upon the Banks of the River Sarte , dignify'd with a Presidial Court and a Bishop's See . This City is very Ancient , and is thought to have been one of the most considerable Cities of the Gauls in the time of Charlemagne . It is said to have been built by Sarthon , Grandchild to Samothes King of the Gauls ; but being destroy'd by the Druids and the Sarrhonides , it was repair'd by Le Mant , K. of the Gauls ; who gave it his own Name . But however it were , there is nothing now remaining but only some few Ruins of what formerly render'd it so famous .

CHAP. XXIV . Of Picardy .

PIcardy is a very large Province , having Champagne to the East ; the Island of France to the South ; Normandy and part of Mance or the Ocean to the West ; Artois and Flanders to the North. It is fertile in Corn and Fruits . But as for the People , 't is said they are generally hot-headed , and being apt to take Snuff upon every Trifle , Men are willing to avoid their Company for fear of running themselves into Quarrels that are often attended with fatal Consequences .

Amiens upon the Somme dignify'd with a Bishoprick , a Presidial Court , a Bailliage and a Generality , is the Capital City of Picardy , and has been taken several times in the preceding Wars : among the rest , the Spaniards took it with a Bag of Nuts in the Month of March 1597. as the Learned M. Hardouin , formerly Tutor to the King , informs us in his History of Henry the Great : For the Spaniards , then Masters of Artois , understanding that Amiens was only guarded by the Citizens , laid a Design to surprize it . To which purpose , by the favour of the Night , they laid a Party of Souldiers in Ambuscado near the City ; and so soon as the Gates were open'd , they order'd other Souldiers , in the Habit of Peasants , to drive several Carts to Market ; of which one being laden with Nuts , they let a Sack fall , as if it had been by Accident , in the Gate ; upon which the Nuts tumbling out , and the Guards being no less busie upon the Scramble , the suppos'd Peasants stopp'd up the Gate with their Carts , while the Spaniards that lay in Ambush advanc'd and seiz'd upon the City . But they did not keep it long ; for Hen. IV. retook it by main force within a few Months after ; and built a Cittadel to secure it for the future from the like Mischances . There is now to be seen upon one of the Gates this Distich .

Amiens was taken by Fox-like Craft , and retaken by Lion-like Force .

The Cathedral is a Noble Structure ; the Body of the Church being lookt upon to be the most beautiful in the whole Kingdom . It is dedicated to the Holy Virgin ; and the Treasury that belongs to it is very Rich ; where among other things is preserv'd the Head of John the Baptist in a Shrine set all with Pretious Stones , and brought from Constantinople by one Vallon de Sarton , a Gentleman of Picardy . The Pillars , the Quire , the Chappels , the Tombs , the Paintings , the Place for the Singing Men , the Portal , over which are two great Towers adorn'd with above a Thousand Statues , are all admir'd by Travellers . In ancient time , Caesar made it a Magazine for his Army ; and held an Assembly of the Gauls in this City . The Emperor Antoninus and M ▪ Aurelius , his Son , much enlarg'd it ; and the Emperors Constantine , Constans , Julian , Valentinian , Valens , Gratian and Theodosius made choice of it for the Place of their Residence among the Gauls . Queen Isabel of Bavaria , settl'd a Parlament in this City ; but now the Bishop , the Vidame and the Bailli are Chief in Authority next the King .

The other Principal Cities of Picardy are Soissons , Laon and Noyen , all three Episcopal Sees . For the last of which the Huguenots have a great Veneration , as being the place of Calvin's Nativity .

Corbie , is a place of strength surpriz'd by the Spaniards in 1636. but soon after regain'd by the French . And the Story goes , That being press'd by the K. of France's Army , the Spaniards wrote to Prince Thomas , then General of the Spanish Army in these words , Fiat misericordia tua , Domine , super nos , quemadmodum speravimus in te , Let thy Mercy be shewn us , Lord , as we have , put our Trust in thee .

Senlis is also an Episcopal City , with a Presidial Court. In the Parts adjoyning to it , stand several stately Houses of Pleasure ; as Vernueil , Chantilli , Dreux and Anet ; which is a Palace becoming the Residence of a King , and whither the Dauphin often retires for the Pastime of Hunting ▪ Among the Wonders of this Castle , great Observation is to be taken of the Clock . For when it is ready to strike , you shall see about Fifteen or Eighteen Hounds of Brass come out and open with a full Cry ; after which , follows a Stag of the same Metal , bigger then the life , and strikes the Hour with his Foot .

Usually Bourbonnois and the County of Oie is joyn'd to Picardy . The first owns Boulogne for the Capital City ; the other Calais .

Boulogne is seated upon the Streight of Calais ; being a Bishop's See , with a County and a Bailliage . The Cathedral Church is consecrated to our Lady ; and to which the Kings of France , at their first coming to the Crown , are by Custom oblig'd to offer a Heart of massy Gold , weighing 2000 Crowns . Lewis XI . was so devoted to the Holy Virgin , that he would needs have the Count of Artois hold of our Lady of Boulogne and not of him . In 1544. the English besieg'd and took it , but it was restor'd again to the French , by the Peace concluded in 1550.

Calais is a Town seated upon the Narrowest part of the Streight between England and France , built in a Triangular Form , defended by a good Castle , having no access to it from the Land , but over a Causey that crosses a great Marsh or Fenn ; and you must have the Permission of the Garrison of Risban to enter the Port. The most remarkable things in this Town are the two Towers , the Altar of the great Church , the rich Tabernacle , and the stately Domo . It was tak'n by Edward III. of England , and remain'd in Possession of the English 210 Years , till the Reign of Queen Mary . History observes , that when the French had expell'd the English , one of the Duke of Guise's Officers cry'd to an English Man in a jeering manner , When will you come agen ? To whom the other reply'd , When the Measure of your Sins is full , and that we are less Wicked then you . Intimating thereby , that the English would never set foot there agen , so long as the French Nation ▪ continu'd well united to their Head .

Abbeville , seated upon the River Somme , is one of the strongest and most Important Places of France . She has all along preserv'd her Privileges , and is call'd the Faithful and the Maiden ; because she was never taken . The Somme brings up Barks to the very Middle of the Town .

CHAP. XXV .

CHampaigne , dignify'd with the Title of an Earldom , is bounded by Lorrain and part of Franche Conté ; to the West it has Picardy and the Island of France ; Burgundy to the South , and Hainault and Luxemburgh to the North. The Extent of it from North to South is 70 Leagues ( 67 says de la Croix ) that is to say , from Ravieres to Rocroy ; and from West to South-East 47 Leagues . It abounds in Corn and Cattel ; and the Wine which it produces , is extreamly desir'd at the Tables of Princes and great Lords . The Champenois are somewhat Opinionated ; nevertheless , they are irreconcileable Enemies of Libertinism and Impiety .

Rheimes , the Capital City of this fair Province may vaunt it self to be one of the fairest and most famous in the Kingdom . For her Archbishop has the Advantage of being the First Duke and Peer of France . The Cathedral of this City is dedicated to our Lady , adorn'd with the most noble Front of any Cathedral in France , and the most admir'd for the Architecture , the Figures and Base Reliefs that render it so Gorgeous . In this Church it is that the Archbishop of Rheims Crowns the Kings of France with the Holy Oil , sent from Heaven to Crown Clovis I. the First King of France . The Antiquity of it appears by the Inscriptions of the Names of the Pagan Deities upon the Gates , and Caesar's Fort close by the City ; which is also the seat of a Presidial Court , a Bailliage , and a University founded by Charles of Lorrain , Archbishop of the City by the Permission of Hen. II. and the Approbation of Paul III.

Chalon's may pass for the second City of Champaigne for the beauty of the Streets , Market-Places , and Buildings , and the Antiquity of it ; for that in the time of Julian the Apostate , it was look'd upon as one of the Principal Cities of Belgick Gaul . The Cathedral is remarkable for the Tower that adorns it very large and very high . There is also in this City a Generality and a Presidial Court .

Troyes is another very fair City , and very Ancient , with a Presidial Seat and a Bailliage . The Cathedral is consecrated to St. Peter , wherein are preserv'd many pretious Curiosities . Among the rest , they pretend to shew yee some Locks of Christ's Hair ; one of the Dishes made use of at the Last Supper ; a Tooth of St. Peter's ; and the Body of St. Helena , which still appears to be fresh .

Charleville has this peculiar to it , that though the Duke of Mantua be Soveraign Lord of the City ; yet the Gates , the Walls , and the Castle of Mount Olympus belong to the King of France .

Sens , seated upon the Confluence of the Seine and the Yonne , is the Seat of an Archbishop ; and a City both large , beautiful and very ancient . The Cathedral of St. Stephens is very remarkable for the Front of it , adorn'd with variety of Figures , and two Stately Towers ; for the Largeness of the Body of the Church , for the Richness of the Chappels , the Antiquity of the Tombs , the Base of the Cheif Altar ; where is to be seen upon a Table of Gold , enrich'd with a great Number of Pretious Stones , a Representation of the Four Evangelists ; and in the middle , a St. Steven kneeling . To this City also belongs a Presidial Court , and a Bailliage .

There are several other Cities in this Province of Champaign , as Langres , Auxerre , &c. of which I omit to say any thing in particular , in regard I never propos'd to my self to make a particular Description of all the Cities of France , designing only an account of what is most worthy the Curious View of a Traveller .

CHAP. XXVI .

IN regard our Monarch has United the Dutchy of Lorrain to his Crown , whether by right of Conquest , or by vertue of a Donation and Resignation which Charles III. made to His Majesty in 1662 , I find my self bound to add in this place a short Description of it . It is bounded by Champaigne to the West , by Luxemburgh to the North , by the Rhine to the East , and by Burgundy to the South . It extends it self Forty Leagues from East to West , and as many from South to North. It was the Allotment that fell to Lothair , who gave it his Name , and the Germans still call it Luttheringe . The People have been always accompted Warlike , and at this day the Lorrainers are look'd upon to be good Souldiers .

Nanci , seated in the Middle of a Plain , with a Chamber of Accompts , and a Seneschalship , is the Chief City of Lorrain ; where formerly the Dukes kept their Courts .

The City of Metz is very Ancient , as being formerly the Capital of the Medromatrices ; it is the Seat of a Bishop , and Lewis XIII . honour'd it with a Parlament in 1633 , which renders it the most Considerable of any in the whole Province . The Cathedral is Consecrated to St. Stephen , where there is to be seen a Vessel of Red Porphyrie , all of one piece , above Ten foot long , wherein the Holy Water is put .

This Province abounds in all sorts of Cattle ; and is furnish'd with Salt-Pits . It affords also Mines of Iron and Lead ; and at the foot of the Mountain Volege , the People find Pearls , Azure Stones , and Materials for good Looking-Glasses . Toul & Verdune are also both Bishopricks . And this is all I have at present to say of Lorrain . For as for the Conquer'd Countries , I have a design , God willing , to treat of 'em in a Particular Volume , under the Title of The Conquests of Lewis the Great . I shall only observe , that under the Conquer'd Countries , I Comprehend Artois , Luxemburg , Hainault , the County of Namur , and part of Flanders ; of which the Principal Cities are Arras , Cambrai , Tournai , Douai , Valenciennes , Lisle , Dunkirk , Luxemburgh , Mons and Namur ; all which Impregnanable Places are in the hands of the French .

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TO THE READER .

'T IS very true that several have set forth Descriptions of Italy ; but 't is no wonder that all Geographers should be Ambitious of making their Court to a Country that was once the Mistress of the World . The Author is also very brief , I must confess ; but many timas succinct Manuals are better Companions for a Gentleman , then large Volumes : They will go by Water with him , and ride in his Coach , where weighty Folio's would be too cumbersomo and unweildy . Besides , the Author himself assures ye , that though he has not been so tedious as others , yet that you shall meet in the succeeding few Chapters , not only with Novelties , which are pleasing to all Men , but with an infinite number of most curious Remarks , which never yet before were committed to the Press ; and which were the Observations of a Great and Learned Cardinal in some particulars , and as to others of an Eminent Person , who by means of his Publick Employments , and his long Residence in the Courts of several Princes of Italy , had gain'd a peculiar and perfect knowledge of the Country : a great Argument of the Truth of what is offer'd to your View ; that there is much in a little , and all clean from Fabulous Report : Now then , after these Encouragements to heighten your Curiosity , I think it not convenient to add any more , for fear of putting a long Epistle before a little Book .

HISTORICAL TRAVELS OVER EUROPE . ITALY .

CHAP. I. Of Italy in General .

ALthô above fourscore Authors have wrote the Description of Italy , nevertheless it is not known from whence it derives its Name . Some deduce it from Oxen or Bulls , which in the ancient obsolete Greek were called Itali ; and for the feeding of which , Italy was then in high repute Others will have it so called from one Italus , one of the first Kings of the Country . It formerly bore the Names of Saturnia , Ausonia , Oenopia , and Hesperia , which it receiv'd from several Princes and renowned Captains that regin'd therein at several times .

This part of Europe is seated in the middle of the Temperate Zone , between the 28th Degree and a half and the 42d and a half of Longitude , and between the 37th Degree and a half and 48th and a half of Latitude .

It is bounded to the North by a ridge of Mountains called the Alpes , which separate it from Germany and Switzerland ; to the West , by the Alpes also and the River Var , which divides it from France and Savoy ; to the East , by the Mediterranean Sea , otherwise call'd the Adriatic Sea , or the Golph of Venice ; and to the South , by the Tyrrhene or Tuscan Sea . Where it is longest , to take it from the Frontiers of Savoy , to the farthest extremity of the Kingdom of Naples , it extends it self about 280 French Leagues , or 450 Italian Miles . But the breadth of it is not all alike , sometimes 30 , in other places 40 , 60 , 80 , and 100 French Leagues , resembling a Boot , that seems to kick at Sicily , to force it into Africa .

Most Geographers divide Italy into four parts ; the first comprehends the ancient Lombardy , wherein are contain'd , the States or Dominions of the Dukes of Savoy , Mantua , Parma , Modena , Milanois , the Republic of Venice , Genoa , and some other Petty Principalities . The second includes the Ecclesiastical State , and Tuscany . The third , the Kingdom of Naples . And the fourth , the Islands of Sardigna , Sicily , Corsica , &c.

The Air is very wholsome and very temperate over all Italy , except in the Ecclesiastical State , where certain malignant Fevers are very rife , and were much more frequent before the use of Ice in Summer to cool their Drink .

Italy produces in great plenty whatever is necessary for the support of Human Life ; as Corn , Oyl , Oranges , Citrons , Pomegranates , with all sorts of Fruits and Flowers . There is to be found both Sugar and Cotton in the Kingdom of Naples ; besides great store of Silkworms , very good Horses and Bufalo's . The Mountains afford Mines of Sulphur , and several Quarries of Alablaster , and all sorts of Marble .

The principal Rivers that water it , are the Po , the Adige , Adda , Arno , and Tiber , which contribute not a little to the Fertility of it , from whence it is call'd , The Garden of Europe . The highest Mountains are the Alpes , the Apennine , which runs quite through the whole length of Italy , Mount Masso , Mount Barboro , Vesuvius , and Mount Gibello .

'T is said , the Italians are very wicked , or very honest and virtuous . The People are generally polite , obliging , quick of apprehension , ingenious , crafty , eloquent , politic , and want not worth , when they have once rid themselves of a certain Reservedness , which frequently begets 'em the Epithete of Knaves . These good Qualities are accompanied with some bad ones , to which they are a little too much enclined : For they are jealous , quick of their promises , slow to perform ; but above all , revengeful ; insomuch that many times Revenge descends from Family to Family .

The Italian Language is a kind of adulterated Latin , which the Goths , Huns , Vandals , Lombards , and other People inhabiting Italy , have much corrupted : Nor do they speak it equally polite in all parts of the Kingdom . It is more refined in Tuscany then any where else : but the Tuscans do not pronounce it so well as the Romans ; which is the reason of the Italian Proverb , Lingua Tuscana in Bucca Romana . And it is observed , that the Italians speak in the throat , the Venetians in the roof of the mouth , the Neapolitans between the teeth , and the Genoeses between the Lips .

The Roman Apostolic Religion , is the only Religion allowed over all the States of Italy , wherein , for the preservation of it , there are several Tribunals of the Inquisition erected ; not but that there are great numbers of Lutherans and Calvenists settl'd upon the Sea-Coasts , drawn thither by the conveniency of Trade : And thô the Magistrates know that they are departed from the Church , yet 't is their interest to take no cognizance of it . The Jews enjoy much more freedom , and have their Synagogues even in Rome it self , upon the Payment of an Annual Tribute . There are also Greeks and Armenians in some Cities , who perform their Church Worship according to the customs of their Country .

History informs us , that after the Foundation of Rome , Italy was govern'd by Kings for the space of 245 Years , and that Tarquin the Proud was the last of her Kings . That afterwards the Romans erected themselves into a Commonwealth , which , under the conduct of Consuls and Senarors , acquir'd Immortal Honour , as well for their Policy , as for an infinite number of Victories which they obtain'd over their Enemies . That Commonwealth lasted till the 706th Year of Rome , at what time Julius Caesar was proclaim'd Emperor , and extended the Roman Empire in all the three parts of the World which were then known ; for America was not discover'd in those days . After this Empire had mounted to the highest period of its Grandeur , it declin'd in such a manner , that it has left us a memorable Example of the instability and fleeting condition of all Earthly Grandeur . This formidable Empire being fallen to decay , was dismember'd in the Reign of Honorius , who dy'd in the year of Christ 423 , and 4176th after the Foundation of Rome .

Italy after this fell under the Dominion of the Emperors of Constantinople , who sent thither their Viceroys or Governors under the Title of Exarchs , who kept their Court at Ravenna . But that Government , which began in the year of Christ 568 , lasted not above 184 years , at what time those Emperors were expell'd by the Kings of Lombardy . Afterwards , the Emperors of the West conquer'd Italy ; and the Kingdom of Lombardy was quite extinguish'd in 774 , by Charlemain , who made great Presents to the Holy See : that Monarch , and the Kings of France , his Successors , being the only Princes who rais'd the Temporal Power of the Pope to that degree wherein we now behold it .

This part of Europe is at this day divided among several Potentates . That is to say , the Pope in the Ecclesiastical State : The King of Spain , who is of the House of Austria , of the Branch of Burgundy , possesses the Kingdoms of Naples and Sicily , the State of Milan , and the Island of Sardigna . These two Potentates are the most considerable in Italy ; the next to them are , The Republic of Venice . The Republic of Genoa . The Republic of Luca. The Grand Duke of Tuscany of the House of Medici . The Duke of Savoy of the House of Saxony . The Duke of Mantua of the House of Gonzaga . The Duke of Parma of the House of Farneze . The Duke of Modena of the House of d'Este .

There are many other Sovereign Princes who have power of Life and Death over their Subjects , with absolute authority to make War and Peace , and to coyn Money ; but by reason of the small Extent of their Territories , are call'd the Petty Princes of Italy . Such are , The Republic of St. Marin . The Bishop of Trent . The Duke of Guastalla . The Duke of Sabionetta . The Count of Novelare . The Prince of Bozzolo . The Duke of Mirandola . The Prince of Monaco . The Prince of Massera . The Prince of Piombino . The Duke of Bracciano : And several others .

All the States of these Princes hold of the Church , or of the Emperor of Germany . Only the Territories of the Pope and the Republic of Venice are independent . 'T is to be observ'd , that the States that hold of the Church , devolve to it again , if the Proprietors happen to die without Issue Male ; the Daughters not being admitted to succeed their Fathers .

There are reckon'd to be in Italy 68 Principalities ; 95 Dukedoms ; an infinite number of Archbishoprics and Bishoprics , and great store of Universities ; of which the most famous are those of Padua , Venice , Turin , Pavia , Siena , Pisa , Bologna , Rome , Ferrara , Fermo , Macerata , Salerno , Naples .

The Principal Cities of Italy , are Rome , which is the Metropolis of the whole Country , term'd the Holy ; next to that , Naples the Noble , Florence the Fair , Genoa the Proud , Milan the Great , Ravenna the Ancient , Venice the Rich , Padua the Learned , and Bologna the Fat.

It remains that I should speak of some Customs that are general in Italy . In regard the Coasts of Italy upon the Mediterranean Sea are much infested by the Pyrates of Barbary , who often Land there , and carry away the Inhabitants in the Country with the best of their Goods , there are little Forts built all along the Coasts , about a mile distance one from another ; more especially upon the Riviera di Genoa , and upon the Coasts of Naples and Sicily , where six men keep Garrison with two Pieces of Cannon to prevent Descents . These Guards every night kindle one or two Fires upon the neighbouring Mountains . When there is but one , it is call'd a Fire of Assurance , as being a sign that no Turkish Brigantine has appear'd all that day . But if they kindle two some Paces off one from another , 't is to give notice to the Inhabitants to stand upon their Guards , and that they have seen some Pirates sounding where to get ashore . Those Fires they call Fires of Mistrust .

The Italians never tell the Clock as other People of Europe do . They begin to tell One at the close of the Day ; so that the Hours of Noon and Midnight alter higher or lower according to the Seasons . For Example , the 12th of August which we reckon to be Noon in France , the Italians count it 17 a clock , and 24 when the Sun disappears . They keep a man at their principal Clocks , who , when the Clock has strook , with a Hammer strikes as many times upon the same Bell as the Clock strook ; that if any one were mistaken in telling the first time , he may not fail to tell right the second .

'T is also a usual thing to be robb'd upon the High way , more especially near any Garrison Towns ; but most of all in the Territories of the King of Spain . Nor is there any trusting to the Guards which are granted to those that desire 'em , because those Guards many times share the Booty with the Thieves , who for the most part disguise themselves in the Habit of Pilgrims or Hermits .

Neither Wives nor Maids stir out of Doors unless it be to Church , or at least very seldom ; and when they do , they are attended by some Spy which their jealous Parents or Husbands send along with 'em to watch 'em . That Sex never appears either in Shops or Markets ; for the Men drive all the Trade . Marriages are usually celebrated by Proxies ; and many times the Man and the Woman never see one another till they come before the Priest to be married . When Mass is said in Italy , only the Men rise up at the Gospel .

I could relate many more things of Italy in General ; but I reserve 'em for the several Chapters of each particular State , to which they more properly belong .

CHAP. II. Of the States of the Duke of Savoy .

THE Dukes of Savoy descend from the House of Saxony , one of the most ancient and most illustrious Families of Germany . 'T is above a thousand years since that they have been in Sovereign Possession of Piemont and Savoy , and no less then five Emperors and four Kings have descended from it . The Duke of Savoy bears a Crown fasten'd over his Arms , ever since Charlote de Lusignan Queen of Jerusalem , Cyprus and Armenia , being driven out of her Kingdom by her Bastard Brother , and flying for Refuge to Rome under the Pontificate of Sixtus IV. where she died in 1489 , bequeath'd all her Pretensions to Cyprus , in the presence of the Pope and several Cardinals , to Charles Duke of Savoy her Nephew . Nevertheless , he is not address'd to by the Title of Majesty , but only of His Royal Highness , and Perpetual Vicar of the Holy Empire in Italy .

The Duke of Savoy , upon a stress of necessity , may be able to bring into the Field about 30000 Foot , and 5000 Horse . His fixed Revenue in time of Peace amounts to Six millions fourscore and eighteen thousand Livres of Piemont . But that Livre not being worth above five French Sols , that Sum amounts to no more then to Four millions five hundred forty three thousand six hundred Livres of our money .

Althô the Duke of Savoy coins Pistols , Ducatoons , Pieces of Six Sols , and other small Money , however the Pieces of France and Spain go currant in his Country . The French Crowns go there for-seventy two Sols , and the other Pieces proportionably . But nothing is so much talk'd if in Piemont as Florins ; which is a chimerical sort of money like our Livres of France , the Florin not being worth above twelve Sols , and the Ducatoon goes in Piemont for 84 Sols .

As for the manners of the Savoyards and Piemontois , the Nobility are endow'd with all the Qualities requir'd in Persons of their Rank . The People are laborious , and naturally very affable , good Husbands , sober , and fit to undergo any sort of Hardship ; but they have no great inclination to War .

The Dukes of Savoy have always appear'd very zealous for the Catholic Religion , which has often induc'd 'em to make use of their Power to constrain their Subjects in the Vallies of Vaudois to return to the Bosom of the Church , from whence they departed in the last Age. The Duke now reigning is the only person that brought his design to pass , by forcing the most obstinate in their Religion to leave their Habitations , and to retire into Switzerland and Germany . But two years after , in 1689. he recall'd 'em to serve in his War against France , and permits 'em the free Exercise of their Religion .

The Government of Savoy is purely Monarchical ; and the Salic Law takes place there as well as in France , for the Daughters never inherit the Sovereignty . For want of Male Issue , the Succession appertains to the next of kin to the Duke , of the Masculine Line .

Savoy was erected into a Dukedom by the Emperor Sigismund , in favour of Amadeus , the 8th Count of Savoy . Thô the Country be altogether Mountainous , yet it abounds in very fertile Valleys . The principal Cities in it are Chamberi , Nice . and Villa Franca , which are now reduc'd under the Dominion of France , together with all the rest of the Province , which is bounded to the North by the River Rhine and the Lake of Geneva ; to the East , by Switzerland and Piemont ; to the South , by the Dauphinate ; and to the West , by the Rhine , which separates it from La Bress and Burgundy .

Piemont is another Province of the States of Savoy , so called from the situation of it at the foot of the Alpes . The eldest Sons of the Princes of Piemont bear the Title of Dukes of Piemont . This Province is much more fertile then Savoy ; being bounded to the East by Milanois and Montferrat ; to the South , by the Republic of Genoa , and the County of Nice ; by Savoy and the Dauphinate to the West ; and Le Velais to the North.

Turin is not only the Capital City of Piemont , but of all the Duke's Territories , where he also keops his Court . It is seated in a fertile Plain , between the Rivers Po , and Doire . It is secur'd by a Citadel with five good Bastions , furnish'd with all things necessary for the defence of it . Nevertheless the French took it , with an Army far inferior to that of the Spaniards who defended it . During the Siege , the Spaniards threw in Powder , Letters , &c. by the assistance of a Mortar , invented by a Fleming , which for that reason was call'd , The Courier Cannon .

The City of Turin is adorn'd with an Archbishopric and a University , wherein all Sciences are profess'd , and it boasts it self to be the first City of Italy where Printing was made use of . The chiefest Curiosity in Turin most worthy the Observation of a Traveller is the Citadel , wherein there is a Well to be admir'd for the largeness of it , and the conveniency of watering a great number of Horses without any trouble ; for they ascend one way , and descend another .

The Ducal Palace is magnificent for the Furniture of it , as well for the Winter as for the Summer . Among the Rarities which are shewn to Strangers , there is a Chariot of Massie Gold , having six Horses of the same Metal spang'd to it , and enchas'd all over with precious Stones . There is also a little Castle of Gold , with Artillery and Fortifications of the same Metal . There is besides an Engin , that carries her Royal Highness from her Chamber to her Baths , with a single Pulley , by the favour of a Counterpoise , and that with all the safety and ease imaginable .

The Cathedral Church of Turin is very stately ; wherein is kept the sacred Sudary , in which the Face and part of the Body of our Saviour are imprinted . They assure ye , that is the same wherein the Saviour of the World was shrouded before he was laid in the Sepulchre of Arimathea , and that it was brought into Savoy by the Daughter of John King of Cyprus and Jerusalem , who marry'd Lewis of Savoy . But that which raises a greater Contest is this , that they shew ye such another Sudary at Besanton , the Capital of Franche Conte .

They whose Curiosity leads 'em to see the Tomb of Clement Marot , the famous Poet and Valet de Chambre to Francis the First , will find it at Turin . For that having been banish'd for his irregular Life from the Court of France , he went to Geneva , from whence he was also expell'd for his loose Living , and retiring to Turin , died in 1544 , in the 60th year of his Age. Althô he understood neither Hebrew , Greek , nor Latin , nevertheless he Translated one part of David's Psalms into French Verse , which are sung by the Protestants at this day , both in Holland , Germany , and Switzerland . And notwithstanding that the more Learned among them agree , that he observ'd little exactness , and that there are many Versions much better , both for the Sense and the Poetry , yet Marot's are still preferr'd before all others , perhaps because he was censur'd by the Sorbon in the Reign of Francis the First . Marot was born at Cahors in Querci , and after his death the following EPITAPH was made upon him :

Querci , the Court , Piemont and all the Earth , Bred , Fed , Enterr'd me , knew my Worth . Querci my Love , the Court had all my Time , Piemont my Bones , and all the Earth my Rhime .

The Duke has also several Houses of Pleasure in the parts adjoyning to Turin , of which the chiefest are Parc , Valentin , and Mille fleurs ; but they have all suffer'd very much through the Violences of the War , as well as the rest of Piemont .

Suza is one of the principal Cities of Piemont , by the Romans call'd Segusium , which was one of Pompey's Colonies , who was the first that open'd the passage of Mount Genevre . It has undergone however several Calamities upon several occasions . History informs us that Constantine the Great caus'd it to be plunder'd and then burnt . In a second Conflagration which it suffer'd through the provok'd fury of the Emperor Frederick Barbarossa , all the Records and Rolls of the House of Savoy were consum'd . This City is considerable for the situation of it , in regard it shuts up one of the principal Inlets of France into Italy However the French have forc'd it several times ; more especially at the beginning of this Age , though the Duke of Savoy had rais'd a dozen Barricado's in the Defiles , which defended one another ; and in our time the King's Armies clear'd their way through it , and are still in possession of it . There are still to be seen at Suza very fair Remains of a Triumphal Arch , which some say was erected by the Goths , others by the Romans ; though others are of Opinion that they are the Ruines of the Trophies rear'd by the Emperor Augustus 740 years after the building of Rome , and 14 before the Birth of our Saviour .

Nice is the Capital City of a County of the same name , which was formerly included within Provence , and which Amadeus the Seventh usurp'd from Joan Countess of Provence , at the same time that she was busi'd in pacifying the Troubles of Naples . To palliate which Usurpation , the Dukes of Savoy alledge , that Ioland , the Mother and Nurse of Lewis the Third , Count of Provence , and King of Naples , surrendred that County to Amadeus of Savoy in 1419 , in compensation for the Sum of 160000 Livres , which he pretended to be due to him from his Pupil . But besides that that Sum was never due , nor a sufficient Equivalent giv'n for that County , Ioland had no power to grant away the Territories of her Son , thô the Duke's Pretensions had been just . However it were , both the City and the County are now in the hands of the French ; Catinat making himself Master of the Cities of Nice and Villa Franca at the beginning of the year 1691.

The City of Nice was founded by the Inhabitants of Marseilles , who made it one of their Colonies : And it was enlarg'd out of the Ruins of Cemella , the Bishopric of which place was translated to Nice , It is a Town of great Trade , wherein are still to be seen some Remainders of an Amphitheatre erected in Honour of the Romans , and some Footsteps of a Temple of Pluto , and another dedicated to Juno . The Citadel is built upon a steep Rock , and is look'd upon as one of the strongest Forts in Europe . The Turks besieg'd it in the year 1543 , but were forc'd to leave it . The Cathedral Church is dedicated to St. Repareus .

The Cities of Chamberi , Montmelian , and Villa Franca , together with the Cities of Casal and Pignerol , are already described in the Sixth Chapter of the First Volume of these Voyages .

CHAP. III. The State of Milan .

MIlanois is a Province of Italy with the Title of a Dukedom , seated in the most beautiful Country of all Lombardy . The Soyl is so fertile in Corn , Wine , and all manner of Fruits , that it bears twice a year . The High-ways are all drawn in a Line , with a Canal of Running Water on each side , which , besides the Ornament of it , serves for the Transportation of Goods and Merchandize from the adjoyning Countries . The Goodness and Fertility of the Country procur'd it formerly the Envy of many , and made it the Seat of cruel Wars . The Revenues of it in time of Peace may amount to Two Millions and Four hundred thousand Crowns ; which Sum is advanc'd a third part in time of War . This State is so numerously Peopl'd , that in case of necessity it is able to bring above 50000 men into the Field . Nevertheless , the King of Spain is so ill serv'd , that the Officers only make the benefit of the Revenue , and his Catholick Majesty is constrain'd to send considerable Sums for the payment of 20000 Men which he maintains in the Country .

Besides the Spanish Money , and the Genoese Coyn that goes currant in Milanois , the Mint sends forth also Philipins , Ducatoons , Creusons , Parbayolles , and Sesins . A Philipin contains the value of 6 Livres 6 Sols of the Country ; the Ducatoon , 7 Livres ; the Creuson , 5 Livres 10 Sols ; the Parbayolle , 2 Sols and a half , or 5 Sesins , which is a small Copper Coyn , two of which make a Sol. The Milanois Livre is worth about 10 Sols of France .

Milan , an Archiepiscopal City , is the Metropolis of the Duchy , built by the Gauls when they settl'd in Italy about the year 170 , after the building of Rome . The Romans expell'd 'em thence 462 years after . This Country was often expos'd to the Incursions of the Barbarians , the Goths , and Huns ; and after that , was subdu'd by the Lombards , who possess'd it till the Reign of Charlemain , who made it a part of the Empire . By degrees this City became so powerful , that she commanded all her Neighbours ; and her Pride swell'd to that height , that she several times rebell'd against her Sovereigns . The Emperor Frederic the First was constrain'd to make use of Force to reduce her to Obedience , which he brought to pass in 1160 ; and soon after the Empress his Wife going to Milan , the People rose , out the throats of the Imperial Garrison , and seizing upon the Empress , set her upon an Ass with her face toward the Tail , which they gave her in her hand in stead of a Bridle , and so led her through the whole City . The Emperor justly incens'd at such a piece of Insolence , besieg'd the City , and forc'd it to surrender at Discretion the 3d of March , 1162. Which done , he levell'd it with the Earth all but three Churches , drew a Plough over the whole , and sow'd it with Salt , as an Eternal Memorial of Reproach and Infamy upon the People , who had no way to redeem their Lives , but by drawing with their Teeth a Fig out of the Fundament of the Ass upon which they had set the Empress ; and they that refus'd to do it were put to the Sword .

Nine years after the City was rebuilt , and rose by degrees in such a manner , that now it is call'd the Great . The Duchy of Milan is claim'd by the Kings of France , upon account that John Galeazzo , first Duke of Milan , having given his Daughter Valentina in marriage to Lewis of France Duke of Orleans , Second Son of Charles the Fifth , surnamed the Wise , it was covenanted by the Articles of the Contract , That if the said John happen'd to dye without Male Issue , the Duchy of Milan should descend to Lewis his Son-in-Law , and his Successors . So that John-Maria and Philip-Maria dying without Legitimate Offspring , the Succession belong'd without dispute to Charles Duke of Orleans , the Son of Lewis . Charles the Fifth was not ignorant of this Pretension , when he promis'd Francis the First , King of France , to give him the Investiture of it for one of his Sons , at the Sollicitation of the Electors of the Empire . But taking the advantage of his Power , and the disorders of France , the Emperor was so far from standing to his word , that he gave the Investiture to Philip the Second , his own Son ; and ever since the Kings of Spain have possess'd that Duchy .

It is observ'd , that the City of Milan has been besieg'd 40 times , taken 22 ; that it has 22 Gates , including those belonging to the Suburbs ; 230 Churches , 96 Parishes , and that it is 10 miles in circuit . It has a Senate , consisting of a President and twelve Senators , of which three must be natural Spaniards . There is in it so great a number of Handicraft Tradesmen , that 't is commonly said , That Milan ought to be ruin'd to accommodate Italy . This City is defended by a Castle fortifi'd with six Bastions lin'd with Brick , and environ'd with Moats of running Waters . There are three different Inclosures able to make great Resistance ; for which reason it is look'd upon to be one of the best Fortresses of Europe . It is about a mile in compass , containing whole Streets , wherein all manner of Artificers keep their shops . It also includes large Palaces , where the Officers lodge ; and several Piazza's , in one of which 6000 men may be drawn up in Battel-array . There are in it likewise four Wells or Fountains , which are never empty ; one Mill , above 200 Pieces of Cannon mounted upon the Bastions , not counting in those which are in the Arsenal , which is furnish'd with all manner of Arms. In one Hall of the Castle is to be seen the Cannon that kill'd Marshal Crequi when he besieg'd Breme , which is laid upon the Ground , to the end it may never be made use of again .

The Cathedral Church , which is call'd the Domo , is the largest and most superb in all Italy , except St. Peter's in Rome ; being lin'd with Marble within and without , sustain'd with 60 Columns of white Marble , which three men can hardly fathom , the least of which cost 1000 Crowns ; those of Adam and St. Bartholomew are the best esteem'd : The whole Church is about 250 Paces long . In St. Anthony's Church is to be seen a Brazen Serpent , which they would make you believe to be the same that Moses lifted up in the Desert ; and that the Emperor Theodosius brought it to Milan .

Strangers go to see the Great Hospital at Milan , considerable for the largeness and magnificence of it , the conveniency of the Building , and the good order of the Government . It is endow'd with a Revenue for the maintenance of above 4000 Persons . The Chambers of the Sick are built in form of a Cross , with an Altar open on four sides in the middle , where the sick People go to say Mass at their going to bed . Besides this Hospital , there is another upon the Moat of the City , wherein there are as many Chambers as there are Days in the Year .

There are to be seen at Milan the Ruins of Triumphal Arches , Baths , and other Roman Edifices ; and the Church of St. Lanrence , built after the Model of the Roman Pantheon , was a Temple dedicated to Hercules . In former times the Emperors were crown'd at Milan with an Iron Crown , and at Alexandria in the same Province with a Crown of Straw .

The other Cities belonging to this Duchy are Coma , Cremona , Tortona , Lodi , Novara , Valencia , Pavia , &c. which are all considerable in some respect or other ; but my purpose is to speak of Milan and Pavia only , which are the principal .

Pavia , regularle fortified , is seated in a Plain upon the River Tecino . In the Cathedral is to be seen a small Mast of a Ship , which the People believe to be Rowland's Lance , who was Nephew to Charlemain . St , Austin's is remarkable for the Tomb where that Saint lies Enterr'd . In the Grand Piazza stands a Statue of the Emperor Constantine , though some will rather have it to be the Statue of the Emperor Antoninus . It stood formerly at Ravenna , from whence it was remov'd to Pavia . And History observes upon this Subject , that Laurec the French General having taken that City by storm in 1527 , a Soldier of Ravenna , who enter'd first , desir'd of his General that Statue for his Reward , to the end he might send it back to Ravenna . But the Inhabitants being more afflicted with that loss , then the loss of their Estates which the Soldiers were just going to plunder from 'em , or the Lives of their Country-men , made such lamentable Outcries , that they mov'd the Victor to let 'em have their Statue for a Crown of Gold , which he engag'd 'em to give the Soldier . The City of Pavia is adorn'd with a University , founded by Charlemain , who , in 734 , took the City , and Didier , the last King of the Lombards , Prisoner . In 1525 , Francis the First having laid Siege to Pavia , and sent a part of his Army to Naples , Charles the Fifth taking advantage of that Diversion , gave him Battel , which prov'd so fatal to France , that the King was taken Prisoner , and carry'd into Spain . 'T is observ'd , that this happen'd upon St. Matthias's day , a day always fortunate to that Emperor . For he was born upon that day , and receiv'd the Imperial Crown upon that day .

CHAP. IV. Of the Republic of Genoa .

THE State of Genoa , is a Fief of the Empire which possesses that part of the Mediterranean Coast , which we call La Riviera di Genoa , and which was heretofore the Country of the ancient Ligurians . This Republic carries the Name of The Capital City , which some will have to derive the Name of it from Janus . At this day it is divided into the Western and the Eastern Riviera ; being bounded by the River Magro to the East , by the Principality of Monaco to the West , the Mountains of Piemont and Milanois to the North , and the Ligustic Sea to the South .

The Maritime Force of this Commonwealth consists in Armed Gallies , and two Men of War carrying between 60 and 70 Guns apiece , for the security of Trade . Upon a case of Extremity they can bring into the Field 30000 Foot . There are about 69000 Souls in the City of Genoa , 80000 in the Eastern Riviera , and about 113000 in the Western Riviera . The Revenues of this Republic amount to 1200000 Crowns , but in regard the most part of it is engag'd for the Debts of the State , there remains not above 150000 Livres , as I have learnt from the most exact Memoirs drawn up by a Person , who by reason of his Employment was perfectly well acquainted with the Finances of the Republic .

The Money stamp'd with the Arms of Spain goes currant in the State of Genoa , when it is Weight . Nevertheless , the Republic coins Pistolets , Genoeses , Piasters , Reals , and some other small Money . The Spanish Pistole is worth 17 Livres 16 Sols , which is as much as 3 Piasters ; one Genoese goes for 3 Piasters and a half . The Piaster of Perou , which weighs a French Crown , is worth 4 Livres 16 Sols : So that a French Livre amounts to 32 Sols of Genoa .

The Genoeses are very expert in Sea-Affairs , and have contributed very much toward all the Enterprizes that have been undertaken for the Conquest of the Holy Land . In former times they won from the Infidels the Kingdoms of Corfu , Sardinia , and Cyprus ; as also the Islands of Metelite and Chio ; and have been Masters of the Cities of Coffa and Pera. 'T is true , that at present they are despoil'd of all these Countries except Corse , from whence they have no other advantage but that of a Royal Crown affixed over the Arms of the Republic , and the Title of Most Serene . The Genoeses are proud and inconstant ; of which , the sundry sorts of Government which they have admitted within these few years are an uncontroulable Proof . At present they keep much to the humour of the Spaniards , even to an Affection of their Habit. Nor are they belov'd by the rest of the People of Italy , among whom these Characters of the Genoeses are very common . Gente senza Fide , Mare senza Pesce , Monte senza Legno , & Donna senza Veregogna . A people without Faith , a Sea without Fish , Mountains without Wood , and Women without Modesty .

The Genoeses differ from the Spaniards in this , that they are much addicted to Trade and Labour . The Gentlemen drive a Trade in all manner of Stuffs , which they sell by Wholesale ; for they are not permitted to sell by Retail , nor to keep Shops . 'T is a custom in Genoa , That the Parties never sign the Acts which are pass'd before the Public Notary , who by this means are the Masters of the Estates and Tranquility of Families . Nor do the Witnesses sign their Depositions , neither are they brought Face to Face with the Parties accus'd . The Nobility are not to have either directly or indirectly any private Communication with any Foreign Ministers .

When a Stranger arrives at Genoa , he is oblig'd to give in his Name to the Commissioners appointed , from whom they have leave to remain four days in the City , without which they would not be admitted into any Inn. And it is observable , that if a Man be not very careful to carry this Permission about him , and to renew it in case he intends to stay any longer , he is in danger to be seiz'd by the Sbirri , and condemn'd to a Forfeiture of 5 Pistoles .

When they proceed to the Election of Senators , several persons put Money into that which is call'd the Seminary , as into a Lottery : And they who have the good fortune to divine who will be the five Senators , whose Names are first drawn , among a hundred and twenty , out of a small Box by a little Boy , such is the multiplication of the Money at that sort of Play , that a Man who has ventur'd 10 Pistoles , may win between 7 and 800. Which thô it rarely falls out , yet the Accident is not without Example .

The Genoeses wear Fardingales , which is the reason that they frequently embarrass one another when they meet in the Streets , which are very narrow . One day , a Lady made use of her Fardingale to get her Son out of Prison : He was about 18 years of Age , and was condemn'd to die . His Mother having leave to visit him in order to the taking of her last Leave of him , put him under her Petticoat , which was born up by a circle of Steel in stead of Whalebone , and two Women leading her as she went along , according to the custom of Italy , she got home , and was deliver'd without the help of a Midwife , and the same day sent away her Child as far as Marseilles to Nurse . The most part of the Houses in Genoa are built with Terrasses at the top , where the Women go to dry their Hair after they have wash'd 'em , to make 'em look yellow .

There is no State in Europe that has submitted to so many sorts of Government , as that of Genoa . Not to make an exact Enumeration of 'em , I shall only acquaint ye , That they were first subjected to the Romans , afterwards to the Lombards , and then to the Emperors . 'T is observ'd , that from the year 1454 , to 1528 , Genoa has been under twelve sorts of Government . She has been rul'd by Consuls , Podesta's , Captains , Governors , Lieutenants , Rectors of the People , Abbots of the People , Reformers , Dukes both Noble and Popular , &c.

The Kings of France have been in possession of Genoa at several different times . In 1396 , this City was surrender'd to Charles VI. and in 1409 , the Inhabitants massacred the French , and put themselves under the Marquiss of Montferrat . Four years after they chose Dukes . In 1421 , they submitted to the Duke of Milan . But in 1436 , being weary of that Government , they made choice of Dukes again , who govern'd 'em till 1458 , at what time they gave themselves into the Hands of Charles VII . King of France . In 1461 , the French were expell'd to make way for the Popular Dukes , of whom there were five sorts in three years . After which the City surrender'd it self to Francis Forza Duke of Milan , who was expell'd in 1478 , after which they had Dukes till 1488 ▪ and then the Duke of Milan took possession of it again .

History informs us , that the Genoeses having sent Ambassadors to Lewis XI . King of France , with Offers to surrender themselves into his hands ; that Monarch , who foresaw how little reason they had to rely upon the Faith of a People so inconstant and subject to rebel , return'd 'em for Answer , That if they gave their City to him , he would give it to the Devil . However it were in 1499 , Lewis XII . took Genoa by Assault , and had resolv'd to ruin it by Fire and Sword . But the Inhabitants having laid about four thousand small Children in the Grand Piazza that cry'd out for Mercy , The King touch'd with compassion , pardon'd the Parents in favour of the innocent Children . But the People growing never the better for it , revolted in 1506 ; the French retook it in 1507 , and were expell'd again in 1512. The next year they got possession of it once more , and remain'd Masters of it till 1522 , at what time the City was taken and pillag'd by the Army of Charles V. Francis I. reconquer'd it in 1527 ; but the next year Andrew Doria , a Genoese , who commanded the French Fleet , revolted , and betraying his King and his own Honour , made use of the Forces of the French Crown to deliver Genoa from the Dominion of France ; and since that time it has been govern'd by a Senate , of which the chief , who is call'd the Duke , is chang'd every two years .

This new Government is Aristocratical : The Duke is assisted with eight Senator-Governors , and four Procurators ; two of which , in their turns , lodge with him in the Ducal Palace four months in the year : And this is that which is call'd the Senate . But the Basis and Foundation of the Republic resides in the Grand Council , compos'd out of 400 Gentlemen chosen out of the ancient and new Nobility . This Council deliberates joyntly with the Duke and the Senators of whatever concerns Peace or War . There are also two sorts of Noble Families , which are dist●nguish'd by Antiquity and new Creation ; the number of the first is no more then 28 , the others are in all 437 ; and the Duke and the Senators are chosen alternatively out of these two sorts of Nobility .

Philip II. King of Spain , and his Successors , out of a Prospect purely politic , have insensibly fasten'd the Genoeses to their Interests , by borrowing vast Sums of Money . Philip II. borrow'd two Millions of this Republic , which was never repay'd : Quite the contrary this Sum has been so multiply'd , as well by new Loans , as by the Interests added to the Principal , that it has occasion'd a common Saying , That the King of Spain holds the Genoeses faster chain'd to his Yoak , then if he were in possession of the City ; In regard these Republicans must be either Slaves to his Catholic Majesty , or lose their Debt .

The Duke must be at least 50 years of Age before he can be Elected ; and after his two years Regency , he cannot obtain the same Employment till after the expiration of 12 years . He can admit no Visits , give no Audiences , open no Letters that are directed to him , but in the presence of the Senators that are lodg'd with him in his Palace . His Robe of Ceremony is of Red Velvet or Damask , made after the old fashion , ruffled below , with a pointed Cap of the same Stuff with the Robe . When the term of his Regency is expir'd , which falls out to be upon the 13th of August , at 14 a Clock and half an hour after , he repairs to the Assembly of the Colledges , where the Secretary of the Assembly returns him Thanks in these terms : Vostra Serenita ha fornito il suo tempo , vostra Eccellenza sene vadi a casa . Your Serenity has compleated your Time , you may return home again . Which he does at the same time , and being come to his own door , he returns Thanks to the Senators and Gentlemen that attended him ; which done , he puts off his Red Robe , and puts on his Senators Gown , which he wears all the rest of his Life .

Three Days after , they proceed to the Election of a new Duke , the Dean of the Senators performing the Function . Presently the Grand Council is call'd together , which names Fifteen Persons proper for that Dignity : out of these Fifteen the Little Council chuses Six , who being communicated back to the Grand Council , they chuse One , who , nevertheless is not Crown'd till Three Months after , thô some have been Crown'd sooner ; and among others , Francesco Maria Sercaro , who was Elected , and Crown'd the same day . The Ceremony is perform'd by the Arch-Bishop of Genoa in the Cathedral Church . Moreover , the Duke and the Senators are oblig'd to take the Communion twice a year , at Christmas and Easter .

The Lesser Council is compos'd of the Duke , the Senators , the Colledges , and 200 Gentlemen , none under Seven and twenty years of Age. This Council is Summon'd together by the sound of a Bell ; and as every Gentleman enters into the Chamber , an Usher in a long Red Robe presents him with a little wooden Ball Silver'd over , which he throws into a Bason over against the Duke . When all the Noblemen are enter'd , the Door is shut , and the Chancellor counts the Balls , that he may know the number of those that compose the Assembly ; and after the Duke has made known the occasion of their Assembling , the Suffrages are gather'd after this manner : A Sub-Chancellor distributes to every one a white Woollen or Linen Ball ; and another Sub-Chancellor gives about a Black Ball ; and a Third presents 'em with an Urn , which they call a Pix , where are Two Pipes the One for the Negative , the Other for the Affirmative , which close together at the top in such a manner , that the hand of him that throws in the Ball , covering all the entrance , it cannot be discern'd into which Pipe he puts in the Black or the White . It is also to be observ'd , that the Decrees of this Council must be render'd Authentick by a Hunderd thirty four Voices at least , which are Two Thirds of the Two hundred .

The Grand Council is compos'd of the Duke , the Senate , and all the Colledges , the lesser Council , and all the Nobility of the City . It is summon'd together after the same manner as the Lesser Council , and the Duke also Declares the occasion of their coming . It is then chiefly call'd together when any Law is to be abolish'd , or any new ones to be made ; or when Plebean is to be admitted into the Nobility ; or for the laying new Taxes or Impositions . In short , in this Assembly it is that all the Power and Authority of the State resides . But these Matters are all prepar'd in the Lesser Council , before they are propos'd in the Grand ones .

The City of Genoa , adorn'd with an Arch-Bishoprick , is the Capital City of the State ; Surnam'd the Superb , as well by reason of the Humor of the Inhabitants , as the Magnificence of the Buildings ; being seated by the Sea side upon the Ascent of a Hill , in the Form of an Amphi-Theater . It is surrounded with good Walls on that side next the Land , and well fortify'd in all parts where it lies liable to be attackt . It is about Six Italian Miles in Circuit , but the Streets are very narrow and dark , by reason of the height of the Houses . Four Gates belong to it , a great number of Magnificent Palaces , and a good Harbor , tho' the entrance into it be somewhat difficult , by reason of several Rocks that lye round about it under water . It is defended by a Mole which the Genoeses built since they revolted from France . At the end of the Mole stands a Phanal , for the direction of Ships that Sail along the Coast in the night time ; and by the situation of the Lanthorn , they in the City understand what Course the Vessels steer , which they perceive . This Phanal is built in that part where Lewis XII K. of France built a Fort to bridle the City .

There is to be seen in Genoa an Aquaeduct , which carries the Water from one to the other end of the City , and which supplies an infinite number of Fountains ; some of which furnish the Vessels before they put to Sea , with fresh Water . If they who Sail from Genoa to Legorne should happen to want Water , they will meet with a Spring of fresh Water in the middle of the Golph de l'Esprece , that bubbles up through the Salt Water , to the surface of the Sea , and still preserves its sweetness .

The Domo ( for so are all the Cathedrals call'd in Italy ) is consecrated to St. Laurence . It is all lin'd without side with Black and White Marble , having Three Doors in the Front , sustain'd with fair Columns of Marble . The Riches within-side also , is exactly correspondent to the out-side Imbellishments . But they who are desirous to see the Reliques , are oblig'd under a forfeiture , to leave their Weapons at the Door . An Iron Gate with Four Locks opens into the Treasury , of which , the Senators keep the Keys . Among other things , they shew ye a Dish all of one Emrauld , which they would make ye believe was presented to Solomon by the Queen of Sheba , and that Christ made use of it at his last Supper with his Disciples ; adding withal , that when Antioch was taken , the Genoeses made choice of it for their share of the Booty . Nevertheless , some Authors say , That Christ Eat the Paschal Lamb in a Silver Dish , as Richard Lassels the Famous English Traveller has observ'd . Moreover , they will have the Ashes of John the Baptist to be preserv'd in this Cathedral .

There are also other very fair Churches in Genoa , of which I forbear to say any thing , for fear of Prolixity ; I shall also say nothing of the Palaces , of which there are almost as many as there are Houses . Which Magnificence has occasion'd this Remark , that the Genoeses are the Richest Private Persons in Italy , and the poorest State , and that the People took as much care of their Private Estates , as the Venetians of their Republick . But of all the Palaces , Prince Doria's is , without all contradiction , the most Superb . For among other Rooms , there is in it a long Gallery pav'd with Black and White Marble , Sixscore Paces long , and Six and Twenty Broad , from whence you may behold all the Vessels and Ships that enter the Port of Genoa . The Apartments are so richly furnish'd , that a Governor of Milan , not being able to believe that they could all belong to Doria , told the Queen of Spain , who was to take Shipping at Genoa , that She should Lodge in one of the most Noble Palaces of the World , but that the sumptuous Furniture , was borrow'd out of all the most wealthy Houses in the City .

Doria being told of this , before the Queens arrival , caus'd to be Engrav'd upon the Gate of his Palace , By the Grace of God and the King , the Whole belongs to the Master of the House . In his Garden is to be seen a large Statue of a Giant , under which is to be read the Epitaph of a Dog , that while he liv'd , had Five hundred Crowns a year allow'd him for his Maintenance .

There are few States of Europe where the Civil Policy is better establish'd then at Genoa . There are certain Magistrates who are call'd the Magistrates of Abundance , whose Care it is to see that the City be provided with Corn , Meal , Wine and Oil for a whole Year ( how Dear soever it be ) besides what comes daily to the Market , and to regulate and set the price of Provision , according to the Fertility or Scarcity of the Year . And to prevent mis-management , there are in all the Quarters of the City , more especially , near the Courts of Judicature , certain Holes in the Wall , into which all People have the liberty to throw in Accusations against those whom they suspect to have mis-manag'd themselves in their Imployments or Commissions ; and sometimes without any other Conviction it happens to be the misfortune of an innocent Person to be punish'd .

I must not conclude this Chapter , without speaking a word of that which gave the occasion to the Bombing of Genoa in 1684. by the French Fleet.

The King having make several complaints to this Republick , by Mr. S. Olon , his Envoy Extraordinary , of the proceeding of this City , in opposition to the Interests of that Crown , and the injuries done his Subjects , that Minister could obtain no reasonable satisfaction . In the Second place , his Majesty demanded of the Republick , free passage by Land through their Territories , for his Salt to Cazal , and that he might erect a Magazine at Savona , of which the Magistrates of Genoa had one Key , to secure 'em from any suspition that it was vended in the City of Savona ; which the Republick refused ; and not so contented , they made a private Treaty with Spain against France , by which the Republick oblig'd themselves to maintain Four thousand Men in the State of Genoa , which were to be rais'd in the name of the Count de Melgar , and at the charges of the Republick ; As also to add Six more Gallies to the Six already prepar'd , to joyn with the Spanish Fleet. The most Christian King therefore , inform'd of their Design , commanded his Minister to know their Reason , and offer'd at the same time his Mediation , or his Forces if they had occasion .

But the Genoeses were so far from accepting the King's Proposals , that they return'd haughty and ambiguous Answers , which enforc'd the King to send a Fleet thither , to the end , that the appearance of it might scare 'em into their Duty . To that purpose M. de Signeley , Minister and Secretary of State , who was aboard the Fleet , being arriv'd in the Port of Genoa , sent for some of the Senators , to whom he made known the Causes of Resentment which the Republick had given the King , and that he was come to demand Satisfaction : that in the mean time they might prevent the mischief that threaten'd 'em , if they unrigg'd the four new Gallies that were already fitted for Sea , and sent to Paris four Senators to excuse their Miscarriages to his Majesty . But they refused to accept of this Expedient ; and were so bold as to let fly first of all upon the King's Gallies , which had not as yet committed any Act of Hostility ; which drew upon 'em a shower of Bombs for some days , that ruin'd a good part of their Palaces .

There is also some reason to believe , that the King would not have stopp'd there , had not the Genoeses besought Pope Innocent XI . to intercede with his Majesty in their behalf , offering to give his Majesty such satisfaction as he should desire . The King therefore , consented to an Accommodation , which was Mediated by Ranuccio , Bishop of Fano , his Holiness's Nuncio , with M. Colbert , Minister and Secretary of State , whom his Majesty had appointed his Plenipotentiary 〈◊〉 the Marquis de Marini , Envoy Extraordin●●● from the Republick .

The Treaty was Sign'd at Versailles the 12th of February , 1685. Ratifi'd by the Republick the 25th of the same Month , and by his Majesty the 3d. of March following , the substance of which was ,

I. That the Duke then Governing , and Four of the Senators should repair to the King in their Ceremonial Habit , and that the Duke , speaking in behalf of the rest , should in the name of the Republick , acknowledge their extream Sorrow for having displeas'd his Majesty , and that he should in his Speech , make use of most submissive and respectful Expressions , and such as should manifest the sincere desire they had to merit his Majesties Good Will for the future , and carefully to study the preservation of it .

II. That the Duke and the Four Senators , at their return to Genoa , should exercise their Employments , and retain their Dignities , and that no others should be chosen into their Places during their absence .

III. That the Republick of Genoa , within a Months time , should dismiss all the Spanish Forces ▪ that had been admitted into the strong Holds and Countrey belonging to the State , and should renounce from henceforth , by virtue of this Treaty , all other Leagues and Associations by them enter'd into , since the First of January 1683.

IV. That the Genoeses might refit at the same time , the same number of Gallies which they had three years agoe , and should lay up those that they had since Equipp'd .

V. That the Republick should restore to the French all that they could recover of the Effects that had been taken from 'em in the City and Territories of Genoa , the King consenting , out of his Royal Compassion , that instead of Reparation of Damages , to which his Subjects might pretend , for such of their Effects as could not be found , that the Republick should engage themselves , as they did by this Article , to contribute toward the Repair of the Churches and Sacred Places endamag'd by the Bombs ; the King referring it to the Pope to settle the Sum that should be thought convenient for that purpose , and to limit the time for bringing those Repairs to perfection .

VI. That the Republick should pay a Hundred thousand Crowns to the Count de Fiesque , in deduction of his ancient Pretensions , upon the sole consideration that the said Count is under the King's Protection ; and upon condition that the payment of this Money should no way prejudice the Reasons which the Republick has to alledge against the said Pretensions .

VII . That the King being content with the satisfactions above-nam●d , will vouchsafe the Honour of his Favours to the Republick of Genoa .

VIII . That all Acts of Hostility shall cease by Land , from the day of this Treaty , and by Sea within a Month ; and the Pris'ners on both sides to be set at liberty .

IX . That this Treaty shall be Ratify'd , and the Ratifications exchang'd , at farthest within Three weeks , &c.

By vertue of this Treaty , the Republick sent the Duke Francis-Maria-Imperiale Lercaro , then ruling , together with four Senators , Marcellino Durazzo , Paris Maria Salvago , Giovanni Garibaldo , and Agostino Lomellino ; who departed from Genoa the 29th of March , 1685. attended by six young Gentlemen appointed by the Republick .

They arriv'd the 10th of April at Lions , and the 18th at Paris ; where the Duke spent about five and twenty days in preparing his Equipage , and the 4th of May had his Audience of the King at Versailles , to which he was conducted by M. Bonnueil Introductor of Embassadors . Some days before , he had caus'd the Nails that fasten'd the Cloath of State of his Coach to be taken away , as being a distinction that belongs to none but Royal Persons , and Sovereign Princes . The King was seated upon a Throne rais'd ten or twelve steps at the end of the Great Gallery . The King had on each side of him , the Dauphin , Monsieur the King's Brother , the Duke of Bourbon , the Duke of Main , and the Count of Tholouze , and upon the Duke of Genoa's approach he rose up and put off his Hat : Then he caus'd the Duke to be cover'd , but the four Senators remain'd uncover'd .

The Duke made an elegant Harangue which I shall insert at the end of the Chapter . Which done , the Senators also made their Compliments , and it was observ'd that the Duke was uncover'd all the while the Senators spoke . The Audience being over , they were Treated at Dinner by the King's Order with all the Profusion and Magnificence imaginable ; and after Dinner resuming their Ceremonial Habits , which they put off before they sate down to Dinner , they were conducted to wait upon Monseigneur , the Dauphiness , the Dukes of Burgundy and Anjou , Monsieur , Madame , and all the Princes and Princesses of the Royal Family . And it was observable that the Senators did not cover till they came to the Duke of Chartres's Apartment . They returned that Evening to Paris , but the 18th and 23d they went back to Versailles in the Habit of Gentlemen to view the Apartments , the Water-works , the place where the great Horses are manag'd , and the Castles of Trianon and Marli . The 26th the Duke and three Senators , Salvago being sick , had their Audience of leave of the King , and departed within a few days for Genoa , where they continu'd in their Employments , till the usual time of a new choice .

The Duke of Genoa's Speech to the King at Versailles , May 14th . 1685. SIR ,

MY Republick has always held it for one of the fundamental Maxims of their Government , to signalize themselves by a profound Veneration for this great Crown , which being transmitted to your Majesty by your August Progenitors , you have exalted to so high a degree of Power and Glory , by such prodigious and unheard of Atchievements , that Fame , upon other occasions accustom'd to multiply , proves deficient in this , not being able should she lessen 'em , to render your Great Actions credible to Posterity .

Prerogatives so sublime , that they enforce all States to look upon 'em with a most profound Obsequiousness , and have particularly induc'd my Republick to distinguish her self above all others , to manifest it in such a manner , that all the World may be apparently convinc'd of it : And the most terrible and fatal Accident that ever befel her is this of incurring your Majesties high displeasure . I cannot therefore proportionably display her extream Sorrow to have offended your Majesty ; though she is apt to flatter her self that this is befallen through an effect of pure Misfortune , nevertheless she is desirous that whatever may have dissatisfy'd your Majesty , may be cancell'd at any rate , not only from your Memory , but from the Remembrance of all Men ; she not knowing any way to alleviate her Afflictions till she beholds her self restor'd to your Majesties inestimable Favour .

Therefore , that she may become worthy of obtaining it , she assures your Majesty , that all her most intent Applications , and most sollicitous Cares shall be imploy'd to procure not only the preservation of it , but also to habituate her self to increase it . In order to which , not content with expressions the most proper and most obsequious , she resolv'd to make use of unusual and singular forms , sending her Duke and four Senators , in hopes that by such special Demonstrations your Majesty will be fully convinc'd of the most high esteem which my Republick has of your Favour and Good Will.

As for my own part , Sir , I acknowledge it for my greatest good fortune , to have the Honour of declaring these my most sincere and most respectful Sentiments , and prize above all things this Opportunity of appearing in the presence of so great a Monarch , who invincible for his Valour , and reverenc'd for his unparallel'd Magnanimity and Grandeur , as you have surmounted all others in Ages Past , so you secure the same Prosperity to your Progeny . From so happy an Augury , I assume the Confidence , that your Majesty , to make known to the Universe the singularity of your most Generous Soul , will incline your Heart to look upon these Remonstrances no less just then sincere , as Testimonies not only of the Integrity of my Heart , as of the Minds of these Illustrious Senators , and Citizens of my Country , who with Impatience attend the reciprocal Marks that your Majesty will vouchsafe to grant 'em of your Benignity and Kindness .

CHAP. V. Of the States of the Dukes of Parma and Modena .

THE Duke of Parma is a Vassal to the Holy See ; to which he pays a Tribute of Ten Thousand Crowns for his Dutchies of Parma and Piacenza . This State has undergone several Revolutions since the Decay of the Empire , till the Church being in peaceable Possession of it , Alexander Farneze being advanc'd to the Pontificate , under the name of Paul III. erected Parma into a Dukedom , and gave it his Son Peter Farneze , in the year 1545. But the Emperor Charles V. disputed the Possession of it with him , till the death of the said Duke , who died Two years after . However , Octavio Farneze his Son , being powerfully protected by the King of France , secur'd that State to his Successors , by the Marriage of Margaret of Austria , natural Daughter of the same Emperor .

The Country adjoyning is very Ferril in Corn , Wine , Fruit , but more especially in Cheese , the excellency of which is sufficiently known . 'T is sufficient to say that they make some of these Cheeses that weigh a Hundred and fifty pound , and that they are esteem'd for so great Delicacies among the Turks , that they are usually serv'd up to the Great Turk and his Visiers at their Banquets . There are likewise several Wells of Salt Water in the adjacent parts , out of which they draw White Salt ; and some Iron and Copper Mines .

The Revenue of the Duke of Parma amounts to Five hundred thousand Roman Crowns a year , which make Seventeen hundred and fifty Livres of France ; and at a pinch of necessity , he is able to bring into the Field Eighteen thousand Foot of his own Subjects .

The City of Parma , Capital of the Dntchy , and where the Duke keeps his Court , is divided into three Parts by the River Parma , over which are built Three Bridges that joyn the whole together . It is adorn'd with a Bishoprick , under the Arch-Bishop of Bologna , and a Famous University , Founded in the year 1599 , by Ranuccio Farneze . The Citadel consisting of Five Bastions , is one of the strongest and best fortifi'd in Italy . Foreigners always visit the Dukes Palace , which is a most Magnificent Structure , wherein there was no spare made of Marble , Jasper or Porphyrie . The Gardens belonging to the Palace and the Cathedral Church , are the Rarities which next the Palace are worthy Observation .

Piacenza is the Second City in the Duke of Parma's Territories ; bearing the Title of a a Dutchy , with a Bishoprick Suffragan to Bologna . 'T is thought that it deriv'd the name of it from the Situation , which is in a Plain extreamly Fertile . It stands not far from the River Po , being about Five Miles in circuit . Near the City to the West , they shew ye the Place where St. Anthony call'd down Fire from Heaven upon the Soldiers that derided his Name . Thô what is more considerable , is the Fountain in the great Piazza of Piacenza , which Augustus caus'd to be brought to the City ; and the Statue of Alexander Farneze the First , a Horseback , in Brass .

MOdenois , or the State of Medena , lies to the East of Parma . It was erected into a Dukedom by the Emperor Frederick III. in 1452. in favour of Borso d'Este . The Country abounds with Plenty of all things . As for the Dutchy it self , it holds of the Emperor , to whom the Duke of Modena pays a yearly Tribute of 4000 Crowns . The Revenue of it amounts to about a Million of Italian Livres , which make Seven hundred and fifty thousand Livres of France : and in a time of Need , the Duke is able to Arm Five and twenty thousand Men.

Modena the Capital of the Dutchy , is the usual Residence of the Duke . It is seated between the Rivers of Sechia and Panaro ; and altho the Streets are somewhat narrow , yet it is a very pleasant Habitation . Foreigners go to see the Duke's and the Bishop's Palaces , the Cathedral and the Citadel , where there is nothing , however very remarkable . History informs us , that Modena was formerly a Roman Colony , and that after the death of Julius Caesar , Brutus was there in vain Besieg'd by Marc Antonie , in the year of Rome 710. That the City was afterwards ruin'd by the Goths and Lombards , and rebuilt under the Reign of the Sons Charlemain : and that it was near Modena , that in the year of Rome 711 , Hirtius and Pansa were defeated by Marc Antonie . The Steeple of Modena is one of the Highest Towers in Italy .

CHAP. VI. Of the Territories of the Duke of Mantua .

THE Duke of Mantua holds the Fee of his Territories from the Emperor , by whom he is invested . Mantua was formerly no more then a Marquisate , till by Charles V. erected into a Dukedom in 1530. The Duke in present Possession , is of the Illustrious House of Gonzaga , He assumes the Titles of Duke of Mantua , Montferrat and Guastalla , Perpetual Vicar of the Empire , &c. The Country is seated between the Territories of the Church , the States of Modena , Venice and Milancis , in length about Fifty Miles , and Forty broad . The Po that runs through it , makes it one of the most fertile Countries in Italy , especially in Corn ; seeing that one good Harvest is sufficient to supply the Inhabitants for Five Years . 'T is true , that by reason of the Inundations of the Po , the Wine 's a little Green and Sowre .

His Highness may be able to bring into the Field , an Army of Twelve thousand Foot , and Eight hundred Horse , and his Revenue amounts to 300000 Crowns a Year , the chiefest part of which is raised either by his Mills , or upon the Jews , who give considerable Sums for liberty of Free Trade ; but they are oblig'd to wear Yellow Ribonds in their Hats , to distinguish 'em from the Christians .

The City of Mantua is the Metropolis of the Dutchy . It is seated in a Lake Twenty Miles in compass , that fills the River Mincius , so that there is no way to approach it , but over two Causeys , with two Draw-Bridges at the ends . Upon this Lake , there are a prodigious quantity of Mills ; and it is remarkable that there are Three in one House that serve to Spin , Wind , Double and Twist Silk , which are manag'd by one single Man .

This City is very Ancient : The Poets Virgil and Fass were both born in Mantua ; nor is it less remarkable for the Manufacture of Tabbies , and other rich Silks . The Streets are broad , Straight , and very neat . It contains about Four miles in compass , having Eight Gates , Eighteen Parishes , Forty Convents , and one particular Quarter for the Jews . There is the same Custom observ'd here as in most of the other Cities of Italy ; that is , that at your entrance into the City you are oblig'd to leave your Fire Arms at the Gate , which are return'd to you again upon your departure at the Gate , which you go forth at . But you must be careful to mark 'em that you may know 'em again .

Travellers take great delight to visit the Manufactures , the Town-house , the Cathedral , the Roof of which is all over Gold and Azure , but more especially the Duke's Palace , which without Question is the fairest Ornament of the City : Nor is it without good reason , that this Palace is said to be able to lodge five Kings with all their Retinue ; there being no less then five hundred and fifty Chambers in it richly furnish'd every one ( though formerly there were seven hundred . The Apartments design'd for the Lodging of Princes , Embassadors , and Cardinals , are proportionable in Magnificence to the Grandeur of the Person that is to be entertain'd in 'em . There are Beds embroider'd with Gold and Pearls , Silk Tapestries emboss'd with Gold . Six Tables about three foot long , of which the one is all compos'd of Emraulds so well joyn'd together , that you would swear it to be all one stone , as well as the rest , which are one compos'd of Turquoises , a third of Violet Saphirs , one of Amber , and another of Jasper . There is also to be seen a Noble Organ of Alabaster ; After which I think it needless to give a description of the Gold , Silver and pretious Stones that glister in all the Cabinets , nor of the Silver , Brass , and Marble Statues that adorn the Chambers and the Galleries ; for there is no question but that every thing else is correspondent to the Magnificence of the Palace , and the Grandeur of the Prince who is the Lord of it . Give me leave to say this by the by , that there are Harnesses for Horses all cover'd with Pearls and Diamonds , a great number of Arms enrich'd in the same manner : Chalices of Gold , Crosses Basons and other Ornaments of the Chappels belonging to the Cardinals of the same House , all enrich'd with Pearls , Rubies , Emraulds and other pretious Stones . To which I shall add , that all this Wealth was much more considerable before the Palace was pillag'd by the Emperour Ferdinand the Second's Forces , under the Conduct of Colalto ; who made himself Master of it in 1630. at what time the Barbarism of the Soldiers , not being satiated with the Plunder , was such , that they broke and spoil'd an infinite number of Statues , and rare pieces of Workmanship .

CHAP. VII . Of the State and Republick of Venice .

WE call the State of Venice the whole Extent of Territory that the Republick possesses in Italy , which was part of the lower Lombardy . Venice is likewise Mistress of Istria , Dalmatia , the Morea , and part of the Islands of the Archipelago . This Republick is the only Sovereign State in Italy , the rest being Feudataries either to the Church or to the Empire . The Air of Venice is not wholsome , as being annoy'd byt he stench of the Canalls , which together with the little Society that Strangers find there for the reasons which I shall hereafter mention , is the occasion that Travellers care not to reside long in the City , when they have once seen the Curiosities that beautifie it .

This Republick is addrest to by the Title of most Serene , as being the most Potent State of Italy . The Revenue of it amounts to about Fifteen Millions ; and the City of Venice alone pays about Two Millions and Five hundred Thousand Ducats ; nor is it less true that she alone contributes as much as all the demeans which she possesses upon the firm Land . She is very sparing , and lays up vastly in time of Peace , of which , her famous Treasury of St. Mark is an undeniable Proof .

In a time of need , she is able to set out to Sea Two hundred sail of Ships and Gallies , and to Arm 400000 of her own Subjects . In times of Peace she always keeps Forty Gallies in pay , to clear the Golph of the Pyrates of Barbary . When the Republick is at War with the Turk , she always makes use of Foreign Forces , which she hires out of Germany and other places ; reserving her own Subjects to People her Cities and her Conquests ; which nevertheless does no way diminish her Treasure , for that the Money which she lays out , is all spent again in her own Territories .

Almost all the Money currant in Italy goes at Venice , proportionably to their weight and Alloy . Nevertheless the Republick Coins Pistols , Sequins , Ducats , Crowns , Pieces of Twenty four Sols , Twenty Sols , and Gazettes , &c. The Sequin is worth Seventeen Livres or Two Ducats ; the Pistole Eight and twenty Livres ; the Ducatoon Six Livres Four Sols ; the Crown Nine Livres , Twelve Sols , and the Gazette , Two Sols . The Ducatoon is not worth above Fifty French Sols ; and between Forty Eight and Fifty Sols of Venice , make a Livre of France .

'T is not without reason that Venice is counted one of the richest Cities in the World , in regard it was never yet taken or plunder'd by her Enemies ; which makes it a common Saying , That 't is as impossible that Money should be wanting in the Treasury of St. Mark , as Soldiers in France .

The City of Venice is the Metropolis of the whole State : and I have already said that she is very potent , and I may add , That if she had but plenty of Fresh Water , she would want nothing . But that defect proceeds from her being built upon Seventy two Fenny Islands . Most Authors agree , that Venice was Founded in the year 421. of Christ ; to which others more precisely add , That the Building was begun upon the 25th of March ; which day is principally observ'd , for that it was the day when the World was Created , and of the Incarnation of Christ . The Inhabitants of Padua were they who Founded this City , at what time Attila King of the Hunns , after he had laid Aquileia in Ashes , undertook to subdue and ruine all Italy . His Cruelties enforc'd the Paduans and other People that inhabited between the Alps and the Golph , now call'd The Golph of Venice , to shelter themselves in certain unwholsome Fenns . And in the year 421. they began to build some Houses in the Island of Rialto , which was proclaim'd to be the Place of Sancturay and Refuge ; and so in process of time those Buildings multiply'd in such a manner , that Venice now takes in Seventy two Islands , joyn'd together with 450 Bridges : and because the Soil would not admit of any solid Foundations , they built upon Piles , as they do at Amsterdam in Holland . The Bridge of Rialto , over the Great Canal , is the most beautiful in Venice , and indeed in all Europe . It has but one Arch , all of Marble , built upon 6328 Piles , and border'd with two rows of Shops . The situation of the City in this manner , is the reason that there is no use of Coaches in Venice , so that when they goe from one place to another , they take Water in Shallops or Boats call'd Gondola's , with which the Canals are cover'd . The Canals and the Bridges are Lin'd with a White shining Stone , and in regard the Women are handsome , and the Gown-men very severe , this has occasion'd a Proverb , which admonishes Travellers to have a care of the Women , the White Stones , and the Men of the long Robe .

At first the Government of Venice was Democratical , under Consuls and Tribunes . Every Island had their particular Consuls , that assum'd to themselves a Petty Sovereignty . But the Jealousies that arose among 'em , were the occasion that in the year 709. the Tribunes of the Twelve Principal Islands , resolv'd to set up a Republick , and to elect a Chieftain to Command 'em ; and first of all they cast their Eyes upon Paolo Lucio Anafesto , to whom they gave the Title of Duke or Doge . This First Duke and his Successors Rul'd with Absolute Authority till the year 1172. because that in their Life time they caus'd their Sons or their Brothers to be chosen to succeed 'em ; and went about in that manner to perpetuate the Ducal Dignity in their Families . But the Principal Citizens abolish'd the Election which was made till then by the People , and set up an Independent and Sovereign Council , out of which they elected their Duke . This Tribunal was compos'd of 240 Citizens , indifferently chosen out of the Nobility , the Burgesses and Artificers ; and at the same time they created Twelve Tribunes , , who were to oppose the Decrees of the Prince , if they appear'd to be unjust . This Form of Government lasted till the year 1289. at what time Duke Peter Gradenigo chang'd it into a Real Aristocracy , such as it is at this day ; all the Authority being devolv'd into the hands of a certain number of Families , writ down in a Golden Book , which is the Register of the Venetian Nobility .

There are four different Councils in Venice ; the first which is called the Grand Council , compos'd of 2000 Noblemen ; out of which they choose all the Magistrates , Podesta's , Generals of their Armies , Proveditors , Ambassadors , &c. and they make all the Laws which are deem'd necessary for the Welfare of the State . The second is call'd the Council of Pregati , which determines all things that relate to Peace or War , Alliances or Leagues ; and this is that which we call the Senate of Venice . The third is the Council call'd the Colledge , compos'd of 26 Noblemen , that gives Audience to Ambassadors , and carries their Demands to the Senate . The fourth is the Council of Ten , which judges all Crimes against the State , and is the most redoubted Council in Europe . This Council is renew'd every Year . This Council every Month chooses three Inquisitors of State , who are always taken out of the Ten , to the end that every one may serve in his Turn , and the Authority of this Triumvirate is such , that they have as much Power over the Duke's Life , as over the Life of the meanest Subject , without acquainting the Senate . This Council has cavs'd several Heads of Marble to be plac'd against the Walls of the Palace with gaping Mouths , upon which these words are to be read , Secret Denunciations , into which they who have any accusation against any Magistrate , or other person holding Criminal Correspondence , throw in little Notes . And upon these Accusations it is , and sometimes upon the least suspicion that they put People to Death , who are sometimes guilty of no other Crime then not to please their Enemies . For such is the Policy of Venice rather to take away the Lives of the Innocent , then to let the Guilty go unpunish'd . We must not forget that all the Nobility , when they betake themselves to the Church , are excluded from all their Councils , and from all Employments in the State to prevent the Court of Rome from having any knowledge of the Secrets of the State .

As to Spirituals , Venice is govern'd by a Patriarch , who by a particular Rubrick , at the beginning of his Commands and Orders never sets any other Titles , than N. divina misericordia Venetiarum Patriarcha , without ever adding , like the Prelates of the Roman Church , Et Sanctae sedis Apostolicae gratia , as if he were no Member of it . He is Primate of Dalmatia , and Metropolitan of the Archbishopricks of Candy and Corfu . Venice has also another Patriarch within her Territories , that is to say , the Patriarch of Aquileia , who resides at Vdena in Friuli , And in regard the City of Aquileia now belongs to the Emperour , he pretends to have a Right to appoint the Patriarch . But the Venetians , to the end the Patriarchate may never become vacant , have empowr'd the Patriarch to nominate a Coadjutor and Successor , so soon as he is advanc'd to that Dignity , which the Senate presently confirms , if they deem him worthy of it .

The Employment of Duke of Venice is for life , and generally they choose to that Dignity an Old Man , who has been Ambassador in the principal Courts of Europe , and who is perfectly acquainted with Forreign Countries . He cannot stir out of the Laguna without leave , and can do nothing without the Advice of his Counsellors which are allotted him , chosen out of the most considerable Gentlemen of the Republick . When the Duke gives his Opinion in the Senate , he has but one Voice ; but his suffrage goes for two in the Grand Council . The Duke is clad in a Purple Robe with hanging Sleeves ; and when he parades upon any publick Ceremony , he walks under a Canopy of Cloth of Gold , eight Silver Trumpets marching before him , and a Youth carrying a Torch of white Wax ; a Sword is also carried before him as a mark of his dependency . All Declarations and Letters of State are written in his Name , and the Money is also stamp'd with his Portraiture , though there is always on the Reverse a Lyon and the Image of St. Mark , with the Duke kneeling before him .

The Duke is Elected after the following manner : The Grand Council being assembl'd at the hour prefix'd , the Door is shut ; and after they have counted the number of those in the Hall , they throw into a Bason an equal number of little Balls , among which there are thirty guilt ; and when they are well jumbl'd and mix'd , every Gentleman goes and takes one . Then the Thirty that have the Golden Balls , assemble together in another Room , where there are ready prepar'd as many little Balls , of which there are but Nine guilt . These Nine Gentlemen whose chance it is to light upon the Nine guilt Balls , choose out forty Gentlemen of the Assembly , which forty are reduc'd to Twelve by means of the guilt Balls ; and those Twelve elect Five and twenty , which are reduc'd to Nine . Those Nine choose out Forty five , who are reduced at length to Eleven , who choose out One and forty Gentlemen , and they Elect the Duke . This Tedious Ballating prevents the Effects of Canvossing . Now when these Electors are approv'd by the Grand Council , they are shut up in the Palace of St , Mark , out of which they never stir till they have Elected the Duke . And it is to be observ'd , that though the Election be authentick , it must be corroborated by Five and twenty Suffrages ; and while the Electors are thus shut up , they are carefully guarded , and diligently lookt after , almost in the same manner as the Cardinals in the Conclave .

The Venetian Nobility is distinguish'd into four Classes : The first comprehends the Families descended from the Tribunes , who in the Year 709. were the Electors of the first Duke of Venice , and which have continu'd by a kind of Miracle to this present time . Those Twelve Electoral Families are the Contarini , the Morosini , Badouari , Ziopoli , Micheli , Sanudi , Gradenighi , Meonni , Falieri , Dandoli , Polani , and Barozzi . There are also other four Noble Families that have continu'd in a Lineal Succession ever since the Year 800 , viz. The Justiniani , Cornari , Bragadini and Bembi . For which reason the first are vulgarly call'd the Twelve Apostles , and the latter the four Evangelists . The second Classis of Noblemen , are they that began to be enregister'd in the Golden Book ▪ when Gradenigo the Duke settled the Aristocracy in 1289. The third comprehends about fourscore and ten or a hundred Families , who purchas'd their Nobility for a Thousand Ducats apiece . These Noblemen are never employ'd in the high Preferments of the Republick . The fourth Order of Nobility is that which the Republick confers upon Forreign Princes and other Illustrious Personages . Thus Hen. III. and Hen. IV. of France were admitted into the Body of the Nobility of Venice .

The Noble Venetians walk the Streets in a long Black Robe , and a Bonnet of black Tissue , border'd with a Fringe that hangs round about , and falls down over their Hair ; for they are not suffer'd to wear Perriwigs ; their Gowns are open before , and discover a rich Cassock ; their Shooes are all of black Spanish Leather ; and for their Gate and Aire , they are very Grave and Majestick . But this Nobility of theirs deprives 'em of the freedom of conversing with Forreigners : Nor will their Jealousie of all other Nations , permit 'em so much as to give Strangers a Visit , or to pay the least Civility to Ambassadors , their Wives , nor any other person belonging to their Retinue , without express leave from the Senate . Nor dare they speak to a Venetian Merchant , if he be known to frequent a Forreign Minister's House .

Having thus discours'd of the Government , both Politick and Ecclesiastick of Venice , I shall only speak one word of what is most worthy the Curious Observation of Travellers . If they happen to be there at the Festival of the Ascension , they will see the Ceremony , which is annually perform'd upon that Day , of the Duke's Espousing the Sea . At what time the Duke and the Senators in their Purple Robes , accompanied by the Patriarch , the Pope's Nuncio , and the Ambassadors go aboard the Bucentaure , which is a sort of Galley with several Decks , guilded down to the Water , and cover'd with Crimson Velvet with broad Gold Fringes ; and attended by all the Nobility and the People in four or five Thousand Gondola's and other Vessels , rows forward within a Mile of the Main Sea . And then it is that the Duke Espouses the Golf of the Adriatick Sea , in Testimony that the Republick is the Mistress of it . The Ceremony of this Espousal is perform'd by casting a Gold Ring into the Sea , and saying these words , We Espouse Thee our Sea , as a Mark of real and perpetual Superiority . After which the Patriarch gives his Benediction , accompanied with the roaring of the Canon . Thence they go to hear Mass upon the Lido , and so return to the Palace , where the Duke treats all the Senators and Great Lords . Alexander III. instituted this Ceremony as a Mark of Gratitude to the Republick , who had so strenuously upheld him against the Prosecutions , of the Emperour Frederick Barbarossa . But it is an Errour to believe upon the Credit of some Historians , ill inform'd , that the Republick of Venice held the Soveraignty of the Adriatick , by Donation from that Pope ; for besides that it was never disputed with the Venetians , the Holy See never had , nor ever pretended to any Right over the Adriatick ; so that that same Pontiff could never bestow upon the Republick a thing that never was in his power to give . And there needs no more then to read the Pope's own words to the Duke Ziani , while he acknowledg'd the Republick's Right , and instituted the Ceremony of Espousing the Sea . Receive ( said he ) this Ring , to give it every Year upon the same Day to the Sea , as to your lawful Spouse , so that your Posterity may know that the Sea belongs to You by Right of Arms.

The Cathedral Church was formerly dedicated to St. Theodore ; but after the Body of St. Mark was brought thither from Alexandria , the City made choice of that Saint for her Patron , and the Church is Consecrated under his Name ; being one of the most Beautiful Edifices in the World ; and what is more surprizing is , that such a weighty Bulk should have no other Foundation then Piles . The Tower which serves for a Steeple , is one of the highest in Italy . The Church is built of nothing else but Marble of all Colours , the finest in all Italy ; and the Floor is pav'd with Jasper and Porphyrie wrought in Mosaick work . The chief Altar is sustain'd by four large Pillars , upon which in Releif you see engrav'd the History of the Old and New Testament ; and over it stands a Globe of Gold and Silver , enrich'd with Pearles and Diamonds . The Chappel of the Holy Sacrament is supported by four Columns of Alablaster , which , as they say , had been Pillars in the Temple of Solomon . The Church divided into five Domes , is cover'd with Lead , and has four Brass Gates ; over the Principal of which stand four Horses of the same Mettal guilt , made formerly on purpose for the Triumphal Arch erected at Rome in Honour of Nero , after he had vanquish'd the Parthians , and afterwards carry'd to Constantinople , to adorn Constantine's Triumphal Arch , and afterwards brought away by the Venetians when they sack'd that great City . This wonderful Structure is supported by thirty six Columns of Marble two foot in Diameter : and the ascent to the Steeple which is 246 Foot high , and 40 broad , is so made as to be very easie , and without Stairs .

The Treasury of this Church encloses a vast heap of immense Riches . Among other things Twelve Regal Crowns , and Twelve Corslets of Massie Gold , enrich'd with Pearls and Diamonds . Ten Rubies of eight Ounces each . One Saphir of ten Ounces : A Vessel all of one single Emrauld : A Dish of one single Turquoise : A Pail to take up water , the whole but one Granate : The Duke's horned Bonnet set with large Diamonds and Oriental Pearls , with an infinite number of other costly Rarities : not to speak of the Ornaments of the Church , as a great number of Pixe , Candlesticks , Silver and Chrystal , together with an infinite number of Relicks , among which the chiefest are the Body of St. Mark and his Gospel , written by his own hand .

They who have a mind to visit St. Luke's Church , may there see Peter Aretimes Tomb , who liv'd in the Fifteenth Age , famous for his Satyrical Writings , which acquir'd him Presents and Pensions from several great Men , and among others from Charles V. and Francis I. King of France ; whither they fear'd his Satyrs , or lik'd his manner of Writing ; which occasion'd the following Epitaph to be made upon him .

Qui giace L'Aretin , Poeta Tosco , Chi d'ognun disse mal , che di dio , Scusandosi col dir , Jo no'l conosco . Here Aretin lies , reduc'd to Earthy Clod , Who wrote in Tuscan Language many a Poem , And rail'd at all Mankind , yet spar'd his God ; But his Excuse was this , He did not know Him .

The Palace of St. Mark 's is admir'd by all Forreigners . It has two Fronts , lin'd with red and white Marble , and cover'd with Plates of Brass , since the Conflagration in 1514. which melted down the Lead with which it was overlaid before . There is nothing but Gold and Azure to be seen in all the Apartments , with an infinite number of very fair Statues , all curious pieces of Workmanship . The Grand Council-Chamber is 150 Foot long , and 73 broad , surrounded with other Chambers full of Fire Arms ; of which the greatest part are always charg'd . Among others are to be seen the Arms which Henry IV. made use of to reduce his Kingdom to Obedience , and which he presented to the Republick . One Piece of Canon and the Carriage all of Massie Silver : A Coffer , at the opening of which four Pistols discharge , and would kill the Person that opens it if they were charg'd : A large Canon that discharges thrice at one time ; and a small Piece that discharges seven times at once . In this Armory there are Muskets , Pikes and Swords to arm a Thousand Men in an Instant , for the security of the Senate : And all things are dispos'd in such a manner , that by pulling a Cord at one end , the Arms fall into the Hands of those that have occasion for 'em . The Muskets are always charg'd ; and they who are possessed of 'em , as they go out of the Armory , will find a large Globe boar'd thorough with as many holes as there are Muskets , in every one of which there sticks a Match ready to be drawn out lighted ; in regard that by means of an Engin , and the Powder which is scatter'd in those Concavities , they can set fire to all those Matches in a Moment .

The Piazza of St. Mark is environ'd with beautiful Houses , of which the Symmetry is very gracefully order'd . The Mint is one of the fairest , and so built , that there is no danger of Fire , because that all the Gates and Windows are of Iron , and for that there is no Wood made use of in the whole Structure . In the midst of the Piazza , three large Masts of a Ship are fix'd upright in the Ground , upon which the Republick's Standards of Gold and Silk are hung out upon solemn days , and at the end toward the Sea side , stand two Marble Pillars all of one piece about sixty fathom high , and eight in compass ; upon one of which is erected St. Mark 's winged Lyon , and upon the other the Statue of St. Theodore .

The Arsenal of Venice is one of the most beautiful , and one of the best supply'd with all sorts of Arms of any in Europe . There they shew to the Curious the Arms of Bajamonte Theopoli , who at the Head of Eight Ragamuffins had resolv'd to murder the Senate in the Council Chamber , and to have seiz'd upon the Soveraignty . They carry'd all their Weapons conceal'd under their Cloaths : But as they were hastning to the Palace , a Flower-pot fell out of a Window upon the Head of their Captain , and beat out his Brains ; which so dismay'd the rest of his Accomplices , that believing their design discover'd , they all dispers'd , and the Senate by that means escap'd . They also shew ye the Sword of Scanderbeg , Prince of Albania , who won no less then seven Battels from the Turks , with which he cleft a Man quite through at one blow . There is also a great number of other Arms and Weapons very curious , and among the rest a Coffer , which they call the Devils Organs , because that if you open it , it discharges several Pistols , that scattering their Shot about the Room , make a great havock of all that are in it .

After you have seen the City of Venice , Travellers always visit the Glass-house at Mirano , where they make admirable pieces of Workmanship of that brittle Mettal , which are transported over all Europe .

But in regard I do not undertake to write the History of Venice , I forbear to speak of all the Places which that Republick possesses in Italy . I shall therefore only say something of Padua which is one of the Ancientest Cities in the Venetian Territories , being about 2300 Paces in Circuit . 'T is said , that Antenor was the Founder of it , and that it is much more ancient then either Rome or Venice . The Church of St. Anthony of Lisbonne is famous , because that St. Anthony , now call'd St. Anthony of Padua , lies there interr'd : And they say , that the Stone that covers his Tomb , smells of Musk : However certain it is , that 't is the most beautiful Church in the City . The Palace where Justice is administer'd , is cover'd with Lead , and there is an Ascent of four large Marble Steps up to it . The Great Hall is 256 Foot long , and 86 broad , where are to be seen the Twelve Celestial Signs and great number of other very Beautiful Paintings . Every Night at a certain hour they make the Great Clock strike 32 times , in memory of so many Traytors who would have deliver'd up the City into the Enemies hands . Padua still retains several Footsteps of Antiquity , as the Remains of an Amphitheater , call'd the Arenae , near the Austin Fryars Church .

And the Ruines of such another are also to be seen at Veronas another City under the Dominion of the Venetians ; but there is much more of the Structure standing , which is said to have been erected by order of the Consul Flaminius , 380 Foot in length , and 200 broad . There is also a Circus where above Fourscore Thousand People may sit upon Seats of Marble .

CHAP. VIII . Of the Republicks of Luca and St. Marino .

LVCA is a small Republican State almost enclos'd within the Territories of Tuscany , having preserv'd its Freedom ever since the Year 1430 , under the Protection of the Emperour . This Republick is govern'd by a Gonfaloniere , who is Elected every two Months out of the Nobility , and has for his Assistants nine Ancients , who bear the Title of Excellentissimo's . However they can determine nothing that is not approv'd in the Grand Conncil , compos'd of 120 Burgesses . Though the Extent of the Territories belonging to this Republick be very small , yet they are very well Peopl'd ; so that they can easily bring 20000 Men into the Field to defend themselves , besides that their Revenue amounts to above 500000 Livres a Year . Their Arsenals are always provided with all things necessary to hold out a long Siege . The Gonfaloniere , who during his Regency lodges in the Palace of the Signiory , and has a hundred Soldiers for his Guard , is clad in a Robe of Crimson Velvet or Damask , with a Bonnet of the same Stuff . Nor are there but few States wherein the Civil Government is better Regulated then in this Republick .

The City of Luca , the Metropolis of the Territory is seated upon the River Serchio , defended by eleven Bastions lin'd with Brick , and as regular as can be imagin'd . Nor is it less considerable for the Antiquity of it , then the Fortifications that secure it , Several Silk Stuffs are made in this City , wherein the Inhabitants drive a very great Trade , which has acquir'd to the City the Epithite of Luca the Industrious .

The Churches are very beautiful , especially the Cathedral Consecrated to St. Martin , where they shew a Picture , upon which they would make ye believe that the Angels painted our Saviour's Face . It is Crown'd with a Crown of Gold , having over it the two Letters Alpha and Omega ; that is to say , the Beginning and the End ; or he that is , was and shall be . In the Austin-Fryars Church they shew ye a kind of an Abyss , which as they say , open'd to swallow up a Gamester that Blasphem'd the Name of his Creator .

The Territories of the Republick of St. Marino are of a smaller extent then those belonging to Luca , because they include only the City of Sancto Marino , and some few Castles that serve to defend it , the whole containing not above six Thousand Inhabitants . It settl'd it self in the Year of Christ 600 , and has all along supported it self under the Protection of the Pope , being almost enclos'd within the Territories of the Church . It is govern'd by two Captains that are new chosen every year . She still preserves her Gravity , especially in respect of other Republicks ; so that when she writes to the Republick of Venice , she calls her Dear Sister .

The City of Sancto Marino is very strong , not only by reason of the situation of it , which is upon the top of a Mountain in the Dutchy of Vrbin , but also because of the Fortifications , which are very regular , and certain Castles that defend it . The Name of it was deriv'd from one Sancto Marino , a Stone-Cutter , born in Dalmatia ; who coming into Italy in the Third Age , and being addicted to Piety , preach'd the Gospel to the Pagans , and Converted several to the Faith . He Dy'd in a kind of Hermitage where he had his Oratory upon the top of the Mountain where now the City of Sancto Marino stands .

CHAP. IX . Of TUSCANY .

THE State of Tuscany Is purely Monarchical and Despotick . It is compos'd of three Estates , which were formerly as many Republicks ; the Florentin , Pisan and Sienese , which derive their Names from their Capital City , where the Grand Duke has built good Citadels . This is one of the most considerable States of Italy , and wants nothing but the Title of a Kingdom , which a Pope of that Family had a design once to have conferr'd upon it . In the mean time according to the Italian Proverb , the Grand Duke wants nothing but Luca and Sarzana to be King of Tuscany .

This Prince is one of the Richest in Italy : his ordinary Revenue amounts to two Millions and a half of Crowns , and 't is said that he has above Five and Twenty Millions of Gold in his Treasury , besides his Moveables and Jewels which are of an Inestimable value . He is able to bring into the Field 30000 Foot , and 3000 Horse ; and as to his strength by Sea , in a case of necessity he can set out Twenty Men of War , a Dozen Galleys , and some Galeasses .

As to the Money , Spanish Pistoles , Piasters and Reals of Peru go currant all over the Dukedom , provided they be weight . The Money which the Grand Duke Coyns are Pistoles , Ducatoons , Julio's and Gratie . The Pistole of Spain goes for Forty two Livres of the Country ; but the Tuscan Pistole goes but for Forty . A Ducatoon is worth seven Livres . A Julio is worth eight Gratie , which is a small piece of Money , part Copper , part Silver . A Livre is worth a Julio and a half , and every Gratia is worth Eleven Deneers of France ; so that the Tuscan Livre is not worth above Eleven French Sols .

Florence is the Metropolis of the Dukedom , with an Archbishobprick Erected in the Year 1421. by Pope Martin V. Surnam'd the Fair , because that without all contradiction it surpasses in Beauty and Magnificence all the Cities round about it ; to which the situation of it contributes not a little , being built upon the River Arno , which divides it into two unequal parts , joyn'd together by Four Stone Bridges ; and it is about Six Miles in circuit , with very neat Streets and well kept . Some Authors will have Sylla's Soldiers to be the Founders of Florence , to whom he gave the Land as a Reward of their Services : That it was at first call'd Fluentia , by reason of the Confluence of the Rivers Arno and the Main , but that the Fertility of the Soil gave it afterwards the Name of Florentia .

The ordinary Residence of the Grand Signior's Court contributes not a little to the Magnificence of it . For assuredly the Grand Duke's Palace deserves to be the Mansion of an Emperour . It is adorn'd with Statues of Marble and Brass much more noble then are to be found in any other place . The Painting , Sculpture and Guilding appear to be the Effects of Profusion . And therefore not to engage in an exact description of this Palace , I shall only take notice of some Pieces the most Magnificent .

There is to be seen a Candlestick or Luster all of Amber ; a Domo of Mother of Pearl , and Gold Enamell'd with red ; a Table where you see the City and Harbour of Leghorn , represented by several Stones of Jasper , Marble , Lapis Lazuli , Topazes and Emraulds most artificially enchas'd ; another Table of Calcedon Enamell'd with Flowers , Empal'd with Agates , Lapis Lazuli , and Emraulds , supported with Enamel'd Pillars : a Cabinet of Jet Inlay'd with several Gold Plates , with Seven Doors where as many Organs play ; and withinside the Passion of our Saviour figur'd in Marble : A Loadstone that sustains about Sixty pound weight of Iron , but it has lost much of the Vertue of it since the last Fire that happen'd in the Palace . A Nail half Iron half Gold , which was thought to be an effect of Chimical Operation , but some years since it was found out that the two Metals were only soder'd together , but so imperceptibly , that it was not possible to be discern'd : An Agate Table , a Statue of Lewis XIII . on Horseback of Massie Gold ; an entire Service of Massie Gold Plate ; and a prodigious quantity of Silver Enamel'd Plate . In short all the Apartments of the Palace , and the Equipage of the Grand Duke are proportionable to this Immense Treasure .

Nor are these the only Rarities which this Palace encloses , the only Objects worthy a Travellers Curiosity . The Gallery wherein are the Portraitures of the Family of the Medicis , and of all the Famous Men of this Age , as well for Learning as for Arms , delightfully allures a Travellers Eye for some Hours , The Great Captains are plac'd upon the Right Hand , among whom is Hannibal the Terrour of Rome ; Scipio who took Carthage and vanquish'd Hannibal : Pyrrhus who rejoyc'd Rome by declaring War against it : Scanderbeg the Scourge of the Turks . Alexander Farneze , who never lost a Battel . Cortesius , who discover'd the Streight of Magellan . Andrew Doria , who recover'd Genoa from the French . Gaston de Foix , whose Memory is still Terrible to the Spaniard . Duke d' Alva , who though Bloody and Cruel perform'd many great Exploits , and who lamented at his Death not the Mischiefs he had committed , but that he had never fought against the Turks . Custruccio , of whom no Body ever spoke ill . Eccellino , of whom no body ever spoke any thing that was good ; and Madam de Momorancy , who was well contented to die in a Battel against the Religionaries of France .

In an Armory adjoyning are to be seen several curious Arms : A Harquebuse , the Barrel of which is Gold , and which carries much farther then a Barrel of Iron : A Pistol which is call'd the Good Night , that discharges five times with once pulling the Trigger . Also another with Ten Barrels , that discharges as many times at once .

In one of the Cabinets stands a Mirrour , into which if a Man looks , he seems to be a Woman ; and if a Woman looks into it , she seems to be a Man . I forgot to tell ye , that among the Grand Duke's Jewels , there is a Diamond as thick as a Man's Finger , that weighs a Hundred thirty eight Carrats , and is lookt upon to be one of the fairest in Europe , being valued at 150000 Crowns .

The Church of St. Mary of the Flowre , is the Cathedral of Florence . It is lin'd without-side with great square Panes of Marble , White , Red and Black intermix'd . The Inside is answerable to the Outside , and the Steeple is of Marble though of a prodigious heigth .

St. Laurence's also is a very Beautiful Church ; but that which renders it more remarkable , is the Chappel wherein the Dukes of Florence lie Buried . This Chappel is built all of Marble , lin'd with Jasper , Alablaster , and other rare Stones , so well polish'd and wrought , that the Workmanship is more esteem'd then the Materials . The Vault is lin'd with Lapis Lazuli of Persia , which is a Pretious Stone of a Blue Colour interlac'd with Veins of Gold , and which perfectly resembles the Colour of the Skie in a clear and serene Season . Round about this Chappel are plac'd the Statues of all the Dukes of Florence , all of Copper guilded in their Ducal Habits ; and between two Tombs one of the Cities of the State of Florence , which takes up the whole void space . In a word the Magnificence of that Mausoleum is so great that 't is enough to make those who are wrapt up with the Pride and Vanity of this World wish for Death , if they might be assur'd of such Glorious Monuments after their Decease .

Having thus view'd the Magnificence of the Palace and Mausoleums of the Great Duke , we come to the Curiosities of the City ; where there are to be seen upon the Bridge that leads to the Grand Piazza , four Statues of White Marble representing the four Seasons ; and in the Piazza stands a Brass Statue upon a Pedestal of the same Metal , representing Como de Medicis , the first Duke of Florence , together with his most remarkable Exploits , in Relief . This Piazza lies before the old Palace , on both sides of which are to be seen the Statues of David and Hercules . To this Palace belongs a Tower which is a Hundred and Fifty Fathom high , without any other Foundations then those of the Palace it self , which gave an occasion to the saying of the Florentines , that they have one Tower in the Air , another in the Water , meaning the Pharo of Livorn , and another in the Earth , which is the Steeple of Florence . Near the River is to be seen a large Column , upon which is plac'd the Statue of Justice in Porphyrie ; upon which the Criticks have made two Burlesque Remarks ; the one is that Justice is plac'd so high , that the poor cannot reach it ; the other is , that she turns her Back to those places where Justice is usually administer'd .

It would be a great oversight not to visit the Houses of pleasure belonging to the Grand Duke , of which the most considerable are Poggio Imperiale , Pratolino , aad Lampeggio ; where the Arbours , the Alleys , the Labyrinths , Grotto's , Waterworks , and whatever can make any place delightful , are in their highest perfection . Strangers are often trickt near Cupid's Grotto in the Garden of Pratolino . For before they come at it , they are led a great way about ; so that coming to the Seats that are not far off , they are willing to sit down and rest themselves : But no sooner are they sate down , but the pillars of the Seat giving way to the weight of their Bodies , out flies the Water all of a sndden , and washes 'em from Head to Foot .

Siena , with an Archbishoprick and a University , was formerly much more considerable then now it is , as having once contain'd above seventy five thousand Inhabitants , whereas now there are not above Four and twenty Thousand in the City . The Streets are broad and all pav'd with Brick . Formerly the Sienois , who had a great many Children were exempted from all manner of Impositions , in regard they had supply'd the Republick with several Members ; and they who had no Children bare the Burthen of the Taxes .

The Cathedral is pav'd with spotted Marble , upon which is engrav'd the Sacrifice of Abraham , and several other Histories of the Old Testament . The Roof is all of Azure , spangl'd with Stars of Gold : There are also to be seen the Marble Statues of several Popes and Emperors , together with Twelve Angels of Brass , every one holding a Wax Taper in their hands . The Piazza of Siena is round , and the Houses built exactly according to the Rules of Symmetry , supported by Arches like those in the Royal Piazza in Paris , where you may walk Winter and Summer without being annoy'd either by Rain , or Sunshine . The middle of the Piazza is hollowed like a Scallop Shell , and may be fill'd with Water from a Fountain adjoyning , for the Lanching of several Shallops into it , wherewith to imitate a Naval Engagement . And near to the Roman Gate , upon two high Pillars , stands a Wolf giving suck to Rhemus and Romulus .

But is Siena has lost her ancient Splendour , Pisa ▪ is no less unfortunate . For she was once the most potent City of all Tuscany ; as having been Mistress of the Islands of Corse and Sardigna , as also of the City of Carthage , at what time above 50 Gallies might have been seen in her Harbour all belonging to her ; but now she is no longer remarkable for any thing else but her Archbishopprick , her University , and the House of the Knights of St. Stephen ; where several who prefer Celibacy before a Marry'd Life , are maintain'd at the Charges of the Order . They wear a Cross of Red Sattin upon their Habits ; and in St. Stephen's Church are to be seen several Flags , Ship-Lanthorns and Colours taken from the Turks by those Knights .

The Steeple of the Domo is admir'd for the height of it , because it seems to lean on one side , though in the judgment of skilful Workmen , it stands as upright as it is possible . This Church is supported by Seventy six Columns of Marble of all Colours , and has three Gates of Brass ▪ which they say belong'd to the Temple of Salomon . The Great Piazza is call'd Campo Santo , by reason it was fill'd up with a vast quantity of earth which the Galleys brought from Jerusalem , in 1224.

Livorno or Ligorno . is a Sea-port Town within the Territories of Tuscany , of which the Haven is accounted one of the safest and most convenient on that side , Now in regard the City is but new built , the Streets are large and streight , and the Houses very convenient , Here it is that the Duke's Galleys and Men of War lie . The Pharos , or Tower of Livorn is lookt upon to be one of the most beautiful , and most necessary in all Italy . One of the most Remarkable . Things in this City is the Marble Statue of Ferdinand . I. having under his Feet four Slaves of Brass , in allusion to the four Turkish Slaves who seiz'd one Night upon a Galley , with a design to have made their Escapes into Barbary , but were taken in the Act. Some say 't was the Father and his Three Sons who came on purpose from Turkey by the Sultan's Order , to have Massaker'd the Grand Duke ; but that their Design being discover'd , they were taken and punish'd according to their Deserts .

CHAP. X. Of the Ecclesiastical State .

THIS State is called the Ecclesiastical State , because the Pope is both the Spiritual and Temporal Sovereign of it . It is compos'd of Twelve Provinces ; La Campagna di Roma , St. Peter's Patrimony , La Terra Sabina , Ombria , or the Dutchy of Spoleto , Orvietano , Perugia , the Earldom of the City of Castello , La Marca d' Ancona , the Dukedom of Vrbin , La Romagna , the Territories of Bologna and Ferrara . This State is bounded to the North by the Republick of Venice ; to the South by the Dukedomes of Mantua and Modena ; to the West by the Grand Dukedome of Tuscany ; and to the East by the Kingdom of Naples .

The Pope is able to bring into the Field an Army of 50000 Foot and 10000 Horse , and ought to have Twelve Galleys for the security of his Coasts . The Revenues of the Holy See , amount to about Two Millions of God . But the Popes have a blessed and easie way to augment it when they please ; and therefore Sixtus IV. had good reason to say , that he could never want Money so long as he had a Hand and a Pen. This easie way of filling the Apostolick Treasuries with Money , has been the cause several Popes not having Children of their own to enrich , as Paul III. had , have solely apply'd themselves to raise the Fortunes of their Nephews . Paul V. left the Prince of Salmone , his Nephew , a Revenue of a Thousand Crowns a Day . And others have done well for Theirs , proportionably to the Times that they enjoy'd the Papal Chair ; and by this means it was that the Number of Petty Princes multiply'd so greatly in Italy .

Besides the Spanish Pistoles , Piasters , Sequins , and some other Foreign Pieces that are currant in the Ecclesiastical State , the Pope Coyns several sorts of Money , viz. Pistoles , Piasters , Testons , Giulios , Gros , half Baioques , and Quatrini . The Popes Pistole goes at 30 Giulio's , and the Spanish at 31 : Three Giulio's make a Teston ; the Giulio is worth 5 Baioques , and one Baioque worth 5 Quatrini . One Baioque is worth 8 Deneers of France , the Giulio 3 Sols 4 Deneers ; so that by that accompt the Ecclesiastical Pistole is not worth above 100 Sols , Money of France .

Now in regard I intend a particular Chapter for the City of Rome , I shall in this Chapter mention only the other principal Cities of the Ecclesiastical State , and begin with Bologna , call'd , The Fat , because of the Excellency and Fertility of the Soil . It is so delightfully built , that in the most part of the Streets you walk under Portico's secur'd from Rain and Sun : It is not above 5 Miles in Circuit ; but if the Air were not so unwholsome , it would be one of the most pleasant Abodes in Italy . Though it be under the Jurisdiction of the Holy See , yet is it lookt upon at Rome , rather as a Sister then a Subject ; in regard that by voluntarily surrendring her self to the Church , she has preserv'd to her self the freedom of sending Ambassadors to Rome , from whence she has Coadjurors ; which is a kind of Bridle to curb the Power and Pride of the Legates .

The Bolognese's also have this farther considerable Priviledge , that if one Citizen kills another , and that he can make his Escape , his Goods cannot be Confiscated . There is also a Tower at Bologna , which by reason of the height of it , seems to lean on one side , like that of Pisa ; which some assert to be an effect of Art ; others that it was occasion'd by an Earthquake . In the Treasury of the Dominicans Church is to be seen a Manuscript Bible in Parchment , which as they say was written by Esdras with his own Hand . They who have a mind to visit the Churches of Bologna , will see the Body of Katherine de Vigri , a Nun of the Order of Santa Clara , who though she Dy'd in 1463 , looks still as fresh as if she were but newly Dead . But that which is more wonderful is this , that every Month they pair her Nails , and cut her Hair once a Year before a great Number of Credible Persons ; nevertheless both the Hair and the Nails still grow as if she were Alive .

There are an infinite number of Country Seats in the parts adjacent to Bologna , but that of the Senator Volta surpasses all the rest in Magnificence . There is an Inscription there to be seen , which has puzzl'd the most Learned Wits of several Nations , For my part , I cannot aspire to that Excellency ; and therefore I shall only mention here the Interpretations of others . This Enigmatick Inscription is in Latin , and 't is said to have been made by a person that was neither Man nor Woman , nor Hermaphrodite ; that she Dy'd neither of Hunger , nor Thirst , nor by the Sword , nor by Poyson , yet by all together ; That she was neither in the Water , nor in the Air , nor in the Earth , but in all at once ; and that this Inscription was made by Lycus Agatho Priscus , who was neither her Husband , nor her Gallant , nor her Kinsman , but all three at one time . Many People have thought they could expound this Riddle ; Some saying that it was Rain Water ; Another Materia Prima ; Another Chymical Mercury ; And a Fourth ascrib'd it to Love .

Since my Remarques have not led me out of Bologna , I cannot leave it without observing , that there is frequently seen in the Parts adjoyning to the City , a certain Meteor , toward the Appennine Mountain , when the weather is obscure and dark , which is a Light almost as round as a Globe , by the Country People , call'd Bocca d'Inferno , the Mouth of Hell , because it has so fall'n out , that Traveliers , having lost their way in the Night , and following this Light at a distance , have been led into Precipices .

Ancona the Metropolis of Marca d'Ancona , is one of the strongest places in the Ecclesiastical State , where the Magazines are always abundantly Stor'd with all things necessary for the defence of it . The Harbor was formerly in great request , insomuch that it was a Proverb , Porto d'Ancona , Torre di Cremona , e Petro di Roma ; The Port of Ancona ; The Tower of Cremona ; And Peter of Rome . The Port was formerly lin'd with Marble , and the Ships were Moor'd to Pillars of Marble , set up all along the Haven at a certain distance one from the other . But Time and the Wars have ruin'd the greatest part , and the Trade is gone off to other places . However , it still preserves a very fair Triumphal Arch , which the Romans erected in Honor of the Emperor Trajan .

Loretto is another City of Marca d'Ancona , Built upon a Hill , and well Fortify'd . This City has been Famous for some Ages , as being the Repository of the Chamber where the Holy Virgin conceiv'd the Divine Word . This Chamber is about Four Fathom long , Two Broad , and as many in heighth . It is built of a Stone inclining to a Red colour , resembling Brick , but much bigger and harder . There is also a little Chimney against one of the Walls on the Right side , with an old Cupboard , where they still preserve some Earthen Platters and Dishes , which being found there when the Building was remov'd , make People believe that it was the Plate wherein the Holy Virgin was serv'd . Some years since they made a Silver Door to the Cupboard ; and at the end of the Chamber is a Window , through whch the Angel enter'd when he brought her the Mysterious Tidings of the Incarnation . There is also the Portraicture of our Saviour , and of the Happy Virgin , which they would have the World believe was Drawn by St. Luke .

This Chamber is now inclos'd within a Chappel of the Church of Loretio , consecrated to the Holy Virgin ; and by the help of a Candle you may perceive that this Chamber stands upon no Foundation . There is a World of Riches in that Church , which has often tempted the Pyrates of Barbary to try whither they could be so fortunate as carry it away , but without any success . Among the rest of the Wealth , for it would be too tedious to give an Inventory of it all , there is to be seen two Crowns and a Dolphin of Massy Gold , which Ann of Austria Queen of France , gave that Church upon the Birth of Lewis XIV . an infinite number of Crowns , Lamps , Gold and Silver Candlesticks set with precious Stones . In the Treasury of the Church are to be seen several sumptuous Altar-Services ; and among others , one made of Chrystal ; Candlesticks , Crevets , a Bason and Eure , and the Foot of a Chalice , all of Amber . Another Service of Agate , another of Chrystal of the Rock ; another of Engrav'd or Carv'd Silver . I forbear to mention any more , that I may have room to say something of the miraculous removal of this Chamber .

The Story is Engrav'd upon the Pillars of the Great Church in Thirteen sorts of Languages , for the Information of Pilgrims ; by which they are given to understand , That the Turks having begun to invade the Holy Land , GOD , unwilling that the Place where his Son receiv'd his Incarnation , should be polluted by the Infidels , ordered the Angels to take this poor Domicil , and carry it the 9th of May 1291. from Nazareth in Galilee , where then it was , into Dalmatia , or as others say , into Slavonia : That Three or Four years after it was remov'd by those Blessed Spirits into the Diocess of Reconati in Marca d'Ancona , upon the Lands belonging to a Pious Lady , whose Name was Loretta ; but that the little House being seated in a Wood , where often Robbers set upon the Pilgrims , it was afterwards remov'd halfe a League from thence upon a Hill , and then a little further to the Place where this Magnificent and Wealthy Church stands , and wherein this Chamber is now inclos'd , Before the Great Church stands a very fair Brass Statue of Sixtus V. one of its Benefactors . Several Strangers visit the Apartments of the Chapter-House , which are very Superb , and sufficient to Lodge the Courts of several Princes at a time . The Cellars are always replenished with excellent Wine , not only for the Provision of the Governor , the Canons , and all the Ecclesiasticks , but also for the Entertainment of the Princes , Cardinals , Bishops , Ambassadors , and generally all the Pilgrims that resort thither , of which there are an infinite number . The Storehouse for Drugs and Medicines where the Pilgrims are supply'd with Physick gratis , is worth a Travsller's Observation . Among other things there are in that Infirmatory , Four Earthen Pots , upon which , Raphael Vrbin Painted the Four Evangelists , for which the King of France's Ambassador offer'd in exchange , in his Master's Name , Four Vessels of Gold of the same bigness and thickness , but could not obtain his Request , which caus'd a Saying , That Raphael ' s Fingers had a greater Virtue in 'em than Midas's , to change all things into Gold which they touch'd .

Ferrara , the Capital City of that Province , seated upon one of the Arms of the Po , has appertain'd to the Holy See , ever since the year 1597. at what time Alphonso II. Duke of Ferrara , of the House of D' Este , dying without Issue , the Apostolick Chamber seiz'd it into her hands , pretending it to be devolv'd to her ; which could not be done without Revolutions , that did not a little contribute to the Ruine of the Inhabitants . This City bears the Title of a Dutchy , and is Adorn'd with a Bishoprick : the Streets are also Fair , and the Palaces Magnificent . The Cathedral is the most Ancient in Italy . Pope Clement VIII . caus'd a Citadel to be built , consisting of Six Bastions , which cost him above Two Millions of Gold , and set up his Statue in the middle of the Piazza . Near the Gate of the new Piazza stand Two Brass Statues of the Two Princes of the House of d'Este , the one a Horseback the other Sitting . Strangers must take notice , that before they can Lodge in the Inns of Ferrara , they must have a Ticket from the Town-House .

Civita Vecchia is one of the best Sea-Port Towns in the Ecclesiastical State , where the Pope's Gallies generally ride . But it now begins to grow more considerable then ever , in regard the present Pope has Declar'd it a Free Port , and Granted Franchises and Priviledges , not only to Christians , but also to the Jews that will settle there .

In the Province of Vmbria , near a place call'd Terni , there is a wonderful sort of Earth , which in a time of Drowth , turns into Mudd , and in Rainy weather turns into Dust . In the same Province is to be seen the Lake call'd Pie di Luco , of which , the Water , as they say , in a little time petrifies pieces of Wood that are thrown into it . The Lake of Norcia , of Norcera is no less remarkable , in the vulgar Opinion , who believe that the Devil walks there , and that the Magicians and Witches keep their Rendezvous upon the Banks of it . Nor is it less certain that the Inhabitants of the neighbouring Villages are often upon their Guards to interrupt those sorts of Meeting . The Sybils Cave is in that Quarter , the Subterraneal Concavity of which leads , as they report , into a very far Kingdom , where the Men and Women sport all Day , and are turn'd into Serpents in the Night .

Visiting the parts about Rome , you come to see Nariri an Episcopal City , anciently call'd The Wicked City , for that the Inhabitants finding themselves constrain'd to Surrender , resolv'd rather all of 'em to Die , and kill one another , then to be Spectators of their Enemies Victory . They began with cutting their Children's , their Sister's and their Mother's Throats , soon after they did the same to their Wives , and then setting Fire to the Four corners of the City , fell a Massakring one another , till not one was left alive .

Before I conclude this Chapter , I must inform the Reader , that near Tivoli , an Episcopal City of La Campagna di Roma , there is a very deep Lake , in which there are several floating Islands , which when the Wind blows , are driven to the sides of the Lake , by the motion of the Water . This Lake is about 500 paces in length , and in regard the Water is very Sulphury , 't is thought that the boiling of the Water forces up the Mudd to the surface of the Lake , which sticking to the Reeds and other Herbage , forms those Islands , that in time grow bigger and bigger .

CHAP. XII . Of the City of Rome , and the Curiosities therein contain'd .

ROME , formerly the Metropolis of a Famous Empire , and now the Chief City of Christendom , is-without contradiction the most Famous City of the Vniverse . Her Fame is spread abroad to all the most distant parts of the World , where she has manifestly made appear the puissance of her Arms , and the Prowess of her Governors . Men may easily judge of the Strength and Power of the Ancient Romans , when they find that their Armies consisted of between Two hundred and fifty and Three hundred thousand Men ; when they had about 1500 Gallies , and an infinite number of other Vessels : And Lastly , That the bounds of their Empire were Euphrates , Mount Taurus , and Armenia Eastward ; Aethiopia Southward ; the Danaw to the North ; and the Ocean to the West . She has now acquir'd the Epithite of Holy , not only because she has been Dy'd with the Blood of an infinite number of Martyrs , but because She is now the usual Residence of the Popes , accounted the visible Heads of the Roman Apostolical Church .

This Famous City was Founded in the Year of the World 3301. by Remus and Romulus , who were the Grand-children by Rhea Sylvia their Mother ( for their Father is not known ) of Numitor King of Albania : which has giv'n an occasion to the Historians , to publish 'em to posterity for the Sons of Mars , because their Mother was found to be big with Child , thô She were in the number of the Vestal Virgins . These Two Founders could not agree about the Name , which they should give their City : For some Authors will have it , that at first it was call'd Valencia ; but the Disputes between the Two Brothers being reconcil'd , or rather determin'd in favour of Romulus , he gave it the Name of Rome , and was the First of the Seven Kings that Govern'd it . After which , she had Consuls till Julius Caesar , who was the First Emperor of Rome .

Thô this City has been Sackt and Burnt an infinite number of times , as well by Foreigners as by her own Citizens , yet has she been so fortunate , as still to preserve some Lovely Remains of her Antiquity and Magnificence . However , She is neither so potent , nor so spacious as formerly She was ; since History assutes us , That once She was above Thirty Miles in compass , whereas now She incloses no more then 23050 common Paces , and 360 Towres within the Circuit of her Walls and Suburbs . She had formerly thirty Gates , which occasion'd as many High Roads that lead to 'em , which are still pav'd with great Stones , and in many places adorn'd with Marble Pillars set up at every Miles end . And it was in those High-ways , all along , that they Enterr'd their Dead ; there being a Law which forbids Burials in the City . Now there are not above Nineteen Gates ; of which we shall give you both the Ancient and Modern Names .

1. La Porta del Popolo , formerly Flaminia

2. Sancta Merodia ' s Gate , formerly Gabiosa .

3. La Porta Piciana , formerly Colatina .

4. The Latin Gate , formerly Terentia .

5. La Porta Agonia , formerly Quirinalis .

6. St. Sebastian's Gate , formerly Capena .

7. St. Agnes's Gate formerly Viminalis .

8. St. Paul's , or Ostia-Gate , formerly Trigemina .

9. La Porta Ripa , formerly Portuensis .

10. St. Laurence's Gate , formerly Esquilina .

11. St. Pancrace's Gate , formerly Aurelia and Septima .

12. The Porta Maggiore , formerly Nevia .

13. La Porta Septimiana , formerly Fontinalis .

14. St. John's Gate , or Coeliomontana .

15. The Vatican Gate near Tiber.

16. La Porta Fabricia .

17. La Porta Pertusa .

18. La Porta Angelica .

19. The Castle Gate .

Rome is Peopl'd with about 300000 Christians , and about 8 or 10000 Jews , who are obliged every Saturday to hear a Fryar Preach upon their Incredulity . The whole Circuit of Rome encloses seven Hills ; but generally they never reckon above seven which are the biggest .

1. Monte Capitolino , where formerly stood the Temples of above Sixty Deities .

2. Monte Palatino , formerly the Mansion of the Ancient Kings , where still are to be seen a great number of Subterraneal Vaults , and the Garden Farnaise , one of the most Lovely Gardens for Pleasure in Italy .

3. Monte Aventino , where now stands Santa Sabina .

4. Monte Celio , which extends from St. Gregories to St. John de Laterano .

5. Monte Esquelino , so call'd from the Watch that stood there .

6. Monte Vioninale , so call'd from the Oziers with which it was formerly overgrown . And

7. Monte Quirinale , now Monte Cavallo , ever since the setting up in that place of the two Marble Bucephalus's which Tiridates King of Armenia presented to Nero. The Popes also have built upon it a Magnificent Palace for their Summer Habitation .

They reck'n fourscore Parishes in Rome , and above Three hundred Churches : Of which the Seven principal , whither the People repair to obtain Indulgences , are St. Peter's in Vaticano , St. Paul's without the City , St. Maria Maggiore , St. Sebastians , St. John di Laterano , of the Holy Cross of Jerusalem , and St. Laurences . But in extream hot Weather they go to Sancta Maria del Popola , instead of St. Sebastians .

There are two sorts of Government in Rome ; that of the City , and that of the Church ; and both the one and the other is in the hands of some Ecclesiastick upon whom the Pope confers it . The first has under him a Captain of a Hunderd Men , to be ready upon all occasions to execute the Orders of the Civil Government . This Captain is call'd Bargello , and his Soldiers Sbirri .

It may be said that there is no City in the World wherein the Civil Government is better settl'd then at Rome . All sorts of Provisions are rated in the Markets , in the Shops and in the Inns , where no body can sell any thing but according to the Rate set . There are Bills set up in all Inns containing the Price of Bread , Wine and Meat , &c. and-for the Information of Strangers , and to the end that the Inn-keepers may not deceive those who are ignorant of the Language , or who cannot read , the Sbirri many times stop Strangers in the Streets , to know of 'em where they Lodge , and what they pay a Meal , to the end that they who offend against the Orders of the Civil Government may be soundly fin'd ; and the better to take the Inn-keepers napping , many times the Sbirri go and Lodge in the Inns , in the Disguise of Forreigners , especially where they have any suspicion .

As to the Ecclesiastical Government , it resides in the Person of the Pope , or the Cardinal Patron under the Character of his Vicar General . When there is any thing to be regulated , the Pope calls a Congregation , where not only the Cardinals are present , but the Bishops and Doctors ; and if any Important Affairs of the Church are in Agitation , they are propos'd in a Consistory , which the Pope usually holds every 15 Days , where all the Cardinals that are in Rome must be present .

None but the Cardinals , whose Assembly is call'd the Sacred Colledge , have any Right in the Election of the New Pope . This Name of Cardinal was formerly given to all the Curates of Parishes in Rome . Nor was it till after the Famous Council held at Rome , in the Pontificare of Nicholas II. in 1053. that the Cardinals assum'd to themselves the only Right of choosing the Soveraign Pontiff . Their number is fix'd to Seventy , viz. Fifty Priest Cardinals , Fourteen Deacon Cardinals , and Six Bishop Cardinals , which are the Bishops of Porto , Ostia , Sabina , Palestrina , Frescari , and Albano . For these Bishopprick Suffragans to the Pope , as their Metropolitain are always enjoy'd by a Cardinal .

At the Council of Lion held in 1243. Pope Innocent IV. gave the Red Cap to the Cardinals . Paul II. in 1464. allow'd 'em Red Habits ; Gregory XIV . gave a Red Bonnet to the Regular Cardinals , who before that time wore only a Hat , and Vrban VIII . allow'd 'em the Title of Eminency , till then addrest to by no other Title than that of Illustrissimo .

At the Time of the Promotion of Cardinals , the Pope being then in the Consistory , tells the Cardinals that are present , You have for your Brethren , N. N. and then he causes the List of their Names and Qualities to be read . Which done the Cardinal Patron sends for those who are at Rome , and carries 'em to the Pope to receive the Red Bonnet at his Hands I and in the next first Consistory , His Holiness gives 'em the Hat , and this Ceremony is call'd the Opening and Shuting the Mouths of the New Cardinals . As for those that are absent , the Pope dispatches away an Express to carry 'em the Bonnet ; but they are oblig'd to go to Rome , to receive the Hat from His Holinesses Hands . The Cardinals Habits , are a Cassock , a Rochet , a Mantelet , the Mozette , and the Papal Cope upon Solemn Days . The Colour of their Habit varies according to the Season , sometimes Light Crimson , sometimes Violet , sometimes Murrey , or a very dark Crimson , The Cardinals are in great Reputation at Rome , and have great Priviledges : Among which one of the most considerable is , that if a Cardinal chances to pass through any place where any Criminal is led to Punishment , the Cardinals presence gives a full Pardon for his Crime .

The place where the Cardinals meet in order to the Election of a new Pope when the See is vacant , is call'd the Conclave . This Conclave is not fix'd to any place , but is in the power of the Cardinals to make choice of any place which they shall deem convenient . However in regard the Vatican is the most commodious for many Reasons , this Assembly has been held there for a long time ; so that the Deliberation of the Cardinals about the Choice of a place for the Conclave is no more then a bare Formality .

There are so many Cells as there are Cardinals , erected in a spacious Apartment of the Palace ; which Cells are made of Deal-Boards , every Cardinals Conclavist having his Partition also , who is a Person shut up with the Cardinal to wait upon him . When the Cells are ready , they are drawn by Lot , and every Cardinal furnishes his own , and sets up his Arms over the Door . The Cells are finish'd in Nine Days , by which time the Pope's Funeral Obsequies being over , upon the Tenth , the Cardinals that are at Rome , enter the Conclave ; and without staying for the Arriual of the Absent Cardinals , labour Morning and Evening in the Election of the Pope . When the absent Cardinals arrive at Rome , they spend some Days in Visits , and reposing themselves , and then they enter the Conclave also .

So soon as the Pope is Dead , the Publick is inform'd of it by the ringing of a Bell that hangs in the Capitol , and which is never towl'd upon any other occasion . At the same time Courriers are dispatch'd to all the Sovereign Princes of Europe that profess the Roman Catholick Religion , to inform 'em of the Pope's Death , The Cardinal Chamberlain removes to the Palace , and takes possession of the Fishermans Ring , which was the Deceased Pope's Signet , and breaks it to pieces , because all Dispatches of Bulls cease during the Vacancy of the See . Afterwards he gives out all necessary Orders for the Pope's Funeral , whose Body is Embaulm'd and carry'd into a Chappel of St. Peter's Church , and expos'd upon a Bed of State , for the People to come and kiss his Feet through a Grate . The Funeral Obsequies last Nine Days , and the Ceremony is perform'd by the Sacred Colledge . During the Vacancies of the Holy See , the Three Chiefs of the Orders of the Colledge , viz. the Dean of the Cardinal Bishops , the first Cardinal Priest , and the first Cardinal Deacon , have in their hands the whole Government of the City and Ecclesiastical State , and before they shut themselves up in the Conclave , they issue forth all necessary Orders for the Publick Security as well in Rome as in all the Cities of the State .

I shall not enter into a particular description of the manner of Electing Popes since Linus's time , who was the first that succeeded St. Peter till this present time , as well for that it would carry me too far , as for that the Ecclesiastical History has amply satisfy'd that piece of Curiosity . 'T is observable in that History , that the People and the Clergy joyntly , and sometimes the Clergy alone proceeded to this Election ; that at other times the Princes and Emperors have assum'd to themselves the power of appointing whom they pleased to be Popes , and reserv'd the Confirmation also to themselves : That Lewis the Debonaire , and his Successors Lotharre I. and Lewis II. restor'd the Liberty of Election to the Church in the Ninth Age : That it was again taken from her in the Reign of Otho I. and not restor'd to her again till in the Twelfth Age. But now briefly to the manner of Election in use at this day .

The Cardinals that compose the Conclave repair Morning and Evening to the Chappel , to make the Scrutiny ; to which purpose they carry every one of 'em a little Ticket , wherein is written the Name of the Cardinal for whom they give their Suffrage for the Pontificate : This Billet also contains the Name of the Cardinal Elector , which nevertheless is inclos'd in a Cover and seal'd up , and instead of a Superscription such a Motto or short saying as the Person thinks of ; as for example , God is my Help . — The Holy Ghost be my Guide . Every Cardinal throws his Billet into a Chalice that stands upon the Altar of the Chappel of the Conclave ; and after all the Tickets are in , two Cardinals are appointed to open the first Fould of the Ticket , and read aloud the Persons Nam'd to the Pontificate which are writ down in a Register , yet not breaking open the Seal that encloses the Name of him that gives his Suffrage , unless it be found that two Thirds of the Suffrages are for one and the same Person , which is the number requisite to render the Election Authentick ; but then the Seals are broke open , and the New Pope has the satisfaction to know who were the Persons that contributed to his Election . This Scrutiny also continues till two Thirds of the Voices meet ; and after reading of the Scrutiny , if the two Thirds of the Suffrages do not agree upon the same Person , then they have recourse to that which they call Anough ; that is to say , that every one is at Liberty to give his Voice for him who had the most by the Scrutiny , with this Reservation , that the Person is not permitted to give his Voice , by the Anough , for him to whom they had given it by the Scrutiny . But if at length , neither the Scrutiny , nor the Anough determine the Election , all the Tickets are burnt , to the end the Names of the Electors may be kept secret . Sometimes the Election is carry'd by way of Inspiration , as they call it , which is as it were an open Declaration , several Cardinals crying out at the same time , such a one Pope . But this is never us'd , but when They who make that Exclamation are assur'd that they shall be upheld by the Suffrages of two Thirds of the Assembly .

When any one of the Cardinals is Elected . Pope , the Masters of the Ceremonies repairs to his Cell , to carry him the Tidings of his Exaltatation ; after which he is conducted to the Chappel , and Rob'd with the Pontifical Habit : Which done he receives the Adoration of the Cardinals ; that is to say , the Respects which they are accustom'd to pay the Sovereign Pontiff . That done , they seat him in the Pontifical Chair , and set him upon the Altar of the Apostles in St. Peter's Church ▪ where the Cardinals perform the Ceremony of Adoration a second time . From thence his Holiness is reconducted to his Apartment , and some Days after they proceed to the Ceremony of his Coronation , as of a Temporal Prince . And here are to be observ'd the two Qualifications of a Pope ; the one is as he is the Soveraign Pontiff and Head of the Church ; the other , as he is a Temporal Prince , and Sovereign of a considerable State .

The Ceremony of the Coronation is perform'd in St. Peter's Church , where there is a Throne erected , to which the new Pope ascends , and being seated ▪ his Miter is taken off , and the Crown set upon his Head before all the People . And then begins the Cavalcade from St. Peters to St. John di Laterano , at what time all the Cardinals , Princes , and Ambassadors accompany him on Horseback . Being arriv'd at St. John di Laterano , the Archbishop of that Church presents the Pope with two Keys , the one of Gold , the other of Silver ; and after he has given the Canons leave to kiss his Feet , his Holiness is attended back to his Palace with the same Ceremony .

In the Account which I am going to give of the Curiosities in Rome most worthy the observation of a Traveller , I shall endeavour to omit nothing considerable of what came to my knowledge , and begin with a Description of the Churches , which are the fairest and best adorn'd of any in the World .

The Church of St. Peter is deservedly lookt upon to be the most beautiful , the largest and the most Superb in Europe . It is built in the Form of a Cross , 840 Geometrical Paces in length , 725 in breadth , 300 high , and 1465 in Circuit . The Roof of it is guilt , and it is cover'd with Lead and Copper guilt . The whole Structure is lin'd with Marble within and without side ; and it is pav'd with square panes of Marble : Above one hundred Pillars support the Roof . of which the ancient Emperors despoyl'd Asia : Among the rest there are Twelve that Vespatian brought away from the Temple of Solomon . I say nothing of the Riches that glister in all the Chappels of the Church , nor of the infinite number of Relicks which are there preserv'd . Those for which the People have the greatest Veneration are the Vail of St. Veronica , with the Picture of our Saviour's Face ; the Lance that was run into his Body ; St. Peter's Wooden Pulpit , with the Bodies of several Saints . The Portico of this Church is 289 Foot long , 40 broad , and 133 in height ; and it has five Doors that answer to the five Doors of the Church ; of which one is call'd the Holy Door , as being never open'd but in time of Jubilee .

Over the Domo of the Church stands a Cupola , or Globe of Copper guilt , which below seems not to be a Foot in Diameter , nevertheless it will hold above Twenty Men. After you have ascended a great number of Steps , you come to a Ladder of Eighteen Rounds which joyns to the Foot that sustains the Globe , so that you must get up with great trouble by the help of a Rope that is fasten'd above , and hangs down by the side of the Ladder . This Globe is about a Fingers breadth in thickness , having no more than four small Clefts , two Inches broad , and six high to let in the Light , and two Iron Bars run a-cross it for People to sit upon . 'T is observable that no Body is permitted to go into it in the heat of Summer , for fear of being stifl'd . 'T is said that St. Peter's Church cost Forty Three Millions of Gold , and was the Work of Twenty three Popes .

The Church of St. John , di Laterano , is very considerable , as well for the Antiquity of it , as for that it is the Episcopal Church of Rome ; and because there it is , that the Pope takes Possession of his Dignity . There it was also where the Emperors receiv'd a Crown of Gold : It is all Pav'd with Marble , and supported with Four rows of Guilded Pillars . Before the Church stands an Obelisk , a Hundred and fifteen Foot high , erected by Sixtus V. This Church was built by Constantine the Great , after his Conversion , in the year 318. and enrich'd with several Crowns of Massie Gold and Silver . The Kings of France have a Right to present Two Canons of this Church to his Holiness , in consideration of the Great Benefits this Church has receiv'd from His Most Christian Majesty ; and there is a Solemn Service said in it every year in Memory of Henry IV. of France .

There is to be seen enchac'd in the Great Altar , another little Altar , upon which they say , that St. Peter and some of his Successors said Mass , before they could be admitted the Publick exercise of Divine Worship . However , it were , no body must say Mass upon this Altar but the Pope himself , or a Cardinal that represents his Person , and he must have an Apostolick Brief for that too . A Chair of Porphyrie is also shown to Foreigners , wherein the Pope Seats himself at the Door of the Church , when he takes Possession of the Papacy . There are a World of Relicks in this Church , as the Ark of the Old Testament , Moses's Rod , the Heads of St. Peter , St. Paul , and St. Zacharie , &c. too tedious to be here repeated .

Upon one side you ascend to St. John de Laterano , by the Scala Santa , or Holy Ladder , which are Twelve Steps of White Marble , the same by which Christ ascended into Pilates Palace , and which Helena sent from Jerusalem to her Son Constantine , then at Rome . People creep up these Stairs upon their Knees out of Devotion .

St. Anastasius's Church was formerly the Temple of Neptune .

The Church of St. Theodore was formerly the Temple of Romulus and Remus ; and as it is said , 't is built in the very same place where the Two Founders of Rome were Suckl'd by the Wolfe . The Hospital of Nostra Madonna of Consolation , was the Temple of Vesta , where the Vestal Virgins kept the Sacred Fire .

St. Agnes's Church was formerly the Temple of Bacchus ; That of St. Alexis upon Mount Aventine , was the Temple of Hercules . Upon St. Anthony of Padua's Day , the People bring all manner of Beasts to his Church in the Martian Valley , in hopes that Saint will preserve 'em from all Sickness , and from the devouring Jaws of the Wolfe . Sta. Barba's in the Quarter of Pigna , was the Temple of Venus . St. Bartholomews in the Island , was the Temple of Jupiter and Escubapius . St. Blase's in the Field of Mars , was another Temple of Neptune . St. Cosmo and St. Damian was another Temple , formerly Dedicated to Romulus and Remus . St. Laurences by Janicola was the Temple of Juno-Lucina . St. Lucius near the Palace , was the Temple of Apollo . St. Maries upon the Capitoline Hill was the Temple of Nerea's was the Temple of Isis . Sta. Sabina up the Aventine Mount was the Temple of Diana .

St. Martin's Church in the Mount , is remarkable for the Vault , which , as they say , was the Place wherein the Christian Religion was First exercised , and where St. Sylvester held Two Councils , during the persecution of the Church . The Church of the Holy Cross in Jerusalem , which is one of the Seven Consecrated to the Cross , was built by Constantine , out of the ruins of the Temple of Venus and Jupiter ; and because the Infidels had erected the Statue of Venus upon Mount Calvarie , and had given the Name of that Goddess to the Mount . Sta. Helena caus'd the Superficies of the Mountain to be par'd off , and sent the Earth to the Emperor Constantine her Son , who put it into the Chappel of that Church , where it is kept among the rest of the Reliques .

St. Pauls Church , a Mile without the City , was also founded by Constantine , in Honour of that Apostle , who lies there Enterr'd . It is 477 Foot Long , 258 Broad , and is supported by 100 Pillars of White Marble , in Four Rows . The Church of St. Maries de la Rotonda , formerly the Pantheon , is a considerable Structure , as well for that Agrippa , who was the Founder of it , set up the Statues of all the Ancient Deities therein , in that order of Dignity which the Heathens ascrib'd to 'em ; as for that the Model of several new Churches has been taken from the round Form of it . This same Structure is a Hundred and forty Foot high , and as many Broad , without Pillars , having no other support then that of the Walls ; which makes it lookt upon , as one of the boldest pieces of Architecture that is in Italy . There is no Light but what comes in at the Door , and at an Overture , about Eight Fathom in circumference , it the top of the Church . This Building was formerly cover'd with Plates of Silver , afterwards of Copper , and since that with Lead ; but now Lastly , at this day with Large Stones .

There are a great many Hospitals in Rome , every Nation having one particularly belonging to it . But the Hospital of the Trinity , erected by Clement VIII . actually maintains Five thousand Persons ; not to mention such as come by chance . In the Apostles Church , there is to be seen every year an Election of Twelve Gentlemen and one Prelate , for the distribution of Alms to such as are asham'd to make known their Necessities ; and to the end they may be the more easily discovered , there are several Boxes Lock'd up , and set up in Publick Places , having little Grates at the top , wherein they who are in want , may put in little Notes containing the Places of their Abode .

There are also Houses for young Girls of Ten or Twelve years of Age , when their Parents are not able to provide for 'em , for fear lest Poverty should tempt 'em to prostitute themselves . There is another House , over the Gate of which is to be read this Inscription , Per le Donne mal maritate . For the Women ill Married ; Where they put such Women as are unfortunately Married , or cannot agree with their Husbands : and where they stay till their differences are reconcil'd , and that the one or the other testifies a desire to live peaceably together .

All sorts of lewd Strumpets that signifie a desire to Repent and Reform their Lives , are admitted into St. Mary Magdalains in Corse , and are there maintain'd all the rest of their Lives : Nor are they Lock'd up by force , as in the Spinning-House , in Amsterdam ; but they must see no Men , unless it be their Confessor and their Physitian .

They who report that Brothel-houses are permitted in Rome , say true ; but not when they add that the Pope approves 'em , and receives a Tribute from 'em . For there is a great difference between approving and conniving . Judaism is no more approved in Italy , then in England and Holland , thô the Jews are suffer'd in all these places , and have their Publick Synagogues . And the Popes are so far from laying any Tribute upon the infamous Traffick of the Daughters of Joy , that they have been the Founders of several Hospitals for the maintenance of young Girls , whose Fathers and Mothers are not able to keep 'em , lest Poverty should tempt them to Libertinism : and they are maintain'd in those Houses , till they are of an Age to Marry , or enter into a Religious House ; and they that are dispos'd to Marry , have a reasonable Portion allow'd 'em , proportionable to the Match that offers it self , and every Annunciation Day , there is a considerable Sum of Money distributed in the Dominicans Church to 300 young Virgins that are in those Hospitals .

The Laws in respect of common Prostitutes are very rigorous : they are forbid to come into the Assemblies of Honest Women , or to frequent the places where they walk to take the Air : they must not go in a Coach in the Day time ; nor stirr out of their Houses in the Night ; nor may they converse together , to the end they may have no opportunity to encourage one another to debaucherie . They are forbid upon pain of exemplary Punishment , to admit any company into their Houses during Lent , nor during the Advent . They are bound to Register their Names in the Publick Registers , kept on purpose for the Curtisans ; who by that means are lookt upon as infamous for ever . They are not admitted to the Holy Communion , nor Buried in Holy Ground , but in the nasty places along by the Walls of the City . Lastly , they cannot make a Will , so that if they leave any Estate behind 'em , which is very rarely , 't is all confiscated for the Benefit of the Hospitals for young Virgins .

Those Places which they call Catacombs , are certain Subterraneal Walks , or Caverns . where the Primitive Christians performed the Exercises of their Religion , during the Persecutions of the Pagan Emperors , and where they privately also held some Councils . The Catacombs , most known in Rome , are those that open into the Churches St. Pancras , St. Sebastian , St. Agnes , and St. Laurence . They who have gone through 'em report , That they run almost quite under the City , even under the River Tiber. These Vaults are for the most part about Five Foot High , and Three in Breadth . By the sides of which lie the Bodies of several Saints and Martyrs , from whence the Pope causes the Holy Bodies to be taken up , and Presents 'em to Princes and Ambassadors , by such Names as his Holiness thinks proper to give 'em . There are some Places in these Catacombs , where People are forc'd to crawl along upon their Bellies , for Twenty or Thirty Paces : and several Persons that have gone thither to visit the Tombs of the Ancient Christians have laid their own Bones in the same place . For being engag'd too far without good Guides , they have lost themselves ; either their light failing 'em before they can find the way out again . or else being stifl'd with the smoak of the Torches .

The Palace of St. Peter's of the Vatican , where the Popes usually reside in Winter , is seated in the Burrough , the best fortify'd place in all the City . This Palace is of a very vast extent , in regard it côntains above 5000 Rooms and Chambers . It has three rows of Galleries adorn'd with Pictures , representing the Principal Histories of the Old and New Testament . In the Chambers also are an infinite Number of Marble and Alablaster Statues ; more especially there is a Stone to be admir'd in the Imperial Chamber , upon which Nature has form'd the Image of Pius V. more exactly then any Pencil could have drawn it upon Cloth . This Palace so call'd from the Name of the Hill upon which it is seated , was begun in the Pontificate of Nicholas V. and finish'd under Leo V. but was embellish'd with Painting and Statues by Sixtus V. Clement VIII . Vrban VIII . and their Successors , who have made it a Palace fit for the Residence of the Severeign Pontiffs . In the midst of the Gallery that leads to Belvedere , stands the Vatican Library , which is lookt upon to be the fairest and the most famous for Number and Curiosity of Books in the World . There are an infinite Variety of Manuscripts in Hebrew , Greek , Latin , Arabick , &c. Writings upon Leaves of Wood , and Tablets of Wax , of which they made use before the invention of Paper . There is a large Manuscript Hebrew Bible , and another Hebrew Bible written upon pieces of Parchment roll'd up , from whence the Latin word Volumen , with another Manuscript written upon the Leaves of a Tree , as the Custome was in those days , whence the Latin word Folium for the Leaf of a Book . Lastly , There is a Greek Bible , which as they assure us , was one of the Seventy Copies of the Seventy Interpreters who Translated the Old Testament by the Command of Ptolomy Philadelphus , being shut up every one apart by themselves .

Before they leave the Vatican , Travellers go to see the Garden of Belvedere , so call'd because from that place you have a prospect over the whole City . 'T is to be observ'd that what we call a Garden of Pleasure , in Italy they call a Vinyard . This Vinyard of Belvedcre is remarkable for an infinite number of Marble . Brass , and Alablaster Statues ; among which is the Statue of the River Tiber , resting upon a Wolf that gives suck to Romulus and Rhemus ; and on the other side Nilus with Seventeen Children , every one about a fathom in height , denoting the Seventeen various measures to which the Waters of that River encrease . There is also to be seen a Cleopatra expiring after her being bitten by a Serpent twisted about her Arm ; a Venus Ericina coming out of a Bath ; the Statues of Bacchus , Mercury , Apollo , and Laocoon and his Children folded about with two Surpents .

The Piazza of the Vatican , commonly call'd St. Peter's Piazza , is one of the fairest in Rome , adorn'd with a Fountain that spouts up the Water , as big about as a Man 's Middle , and as high as a Half-Pike ; and an Obelisk , which is call'd the Needle by reason of the shape and height of it . This is a Stone that was brought from Egypt , by the Command of Caligula , at an incredible charge , and was set up in Nero's Circus ; but Sixtus V. caus'd it to be remov'd into the Vatioan Piazza . It is 217 Foot high , comprehending the Basis about 12 Foot in circumference below , and 8 at the top . It is supported by four Lions of Brass guilt , that stand upon a large Pedestal of Marble .

The Castle of St. Angelo is one of the best Fortresses in Italy , and has been the Sanctuary of several Popes in the Troubles of Italy . Alexander VI. built a private Coridor , or Gallery , which leads from the Palace of St. Peter , to the Castle , to the end the Popes might retire in a Time of necessity without being seen . Prisoners of State are committed thither ; and the Treasure of the Church , the Records and Rolls , the Triple Crown , with the five Millions which Sixtus V. laid up there , with a prohibition upon pain of Excommunication to all his Successors , forbiding 'em to touch it , but upon a most urgent necessity for the defence of the City , to which end that Sum was only design'd . As to the Name of the Castle , it was so call'd , as they say , from the Statue of an Angel that stands at the top of the Frontispiece with a Sword in his Hand , in memory of St. Gregories Vision , in which an Angel appear'd to him sheathing his Sword , to let him understand that the Wrath of God was appeasd toward the Romans , who had been very much afflicted with War , Pestilence and Famine .

Near the Castle is a Bridge over the Tiber , call'd St. Angelo's Bridge , built almost in the same place where formerly stood the Triumphal Bridge , by reason that all the Triumphs that were decreed in Rome , pass'd that way . But now we see no more remaining but only the sad Ruines of that Pompous Vanity , it being the Will of God , that that piece of solemn Luxury should be quite extinct , by reason the Excess of those Triumphs was grown to that degree of Exorbitancy , that had the use of 'em continu'd , Men would have been made use of instead of Beasts to draw the Victors Chariot . Camillus's was drawn by four White Horses ; Pompey's by four Elephants ; Mark-Antony's by four Lyons ; and Nero's by four Hermophradites ; Aurelian's by six Harts , and Firmius's by six Ostriches .

The Capitol is one of the most ancient Buildings in Rome , so call'd from the Head of a Man that was found when the Foundations of it were laid by the Orders of Tarquin the Proud . The Structure was finish'd and cover'd with Brass guilt in the Consulship of Pulvillus . Catulus consecrated it to Jupiter Capitolinus ; and it was adorn'd with a great number of Statues of Massie Gold and Silver , which represented the Ancient Roman Magistrates and Consuls , and it had 3000 Brass Tables when one part of it was consum'd by Fire . Nor was that the only Fire which defac'd this Building , for it was again burnt down in Sylla's time : A third time in the Reign of Domitian ; and a fourth under Commodus . So that it wants that Wealth and Magnificence which formerly render'd it so famous . An Ascent of 128 Steps led up to it , and there are still remarkable in it for curious pieces of Workmanship two Statues of Constantine upon two Horses of Marble , and in the Grand piazza stands a Brass Statue of Marcus Aurelius Antoninus on Horse-back . The Palace of the Conservators , which is also a part of the Capitol , is adorn'd with an infinite number very curious Statues .

Upon the Quirinal Hill are to be seen the Ruines of Constantine's Bathing Places . These sorts of Buildings were very large and sumptuous in every respect ; and there are also to be seen at Rome some Ruines of the Emperors Alexander , Severus , Nero , Titus , Trajan , Philippus , and Caracalla's Baths .

They that are very curious are easily led to see upon the Palatin Hill , the Lake or Gulf of Curtius , a kind of an Abyss whence formerly issued forth a Stench that caus'd the Pestilence in Rome , upon which the Oracle being consulted , return'd for Answer , that the Contagion should not cease , till they had thrown into the Gulph whatever Rome had of most precious . Presently the Roman Ladies threw in all their Jewels ; but that not availing Curtius , a Roman Knight , imagining there was nothing more pretious than a Brave and a Valiant Man , and willing to signalize his Presumption and his Zeal for his Country , threw himself headlong Horse and Man into the Abyss , and then the Plague ceas'd .

In that Quarter which is call'd the Field of Mars , stands Antoninus's Pillar , upon which are represented in half Relief the Glorious Actions of that Emperor against the Armenians , the Parthians , the Germans , &c. Two hunder'd and seven Marble Steps lead up to the top of it , the Light coming in at six little Windows . It consists of no more then Eight and twenty Marble Stones , which being joyn'd together , make a Hundred seventy five Foot in heighth . Of late they have plac'd upon the top of it a Statue of St. Paul of guilt Brass .

Trajan's Column in the Piazza of the same Name consists of no more then four Stones that rise to 140 Foot in heighth ; to the top of which there is an Ascent of 185 Steps , enlighten'd by 44 Windows . Formerly they had set upon the top of this Column an Urn with Trajan's Ashes in it ; but that is since taken down , and the Statue of St. Peter in Brass erected in the room of it .

Nor must I bury in silence the Statues of Pasquin and Manforio ; for they that talk so often of others , must not be themselves forgotten . It is call'd the Statue of Pasquin , because that all the Satyrs which are made in Rome , call'd Pasquinades are always fix'd upon it . Some say this Statue was erected in Honour of one of Alexander's Soldiers who had done him many signal Services . Others reject this Opinion , and tell us that the Word Pasquin is deriv'd from a Taylor who made Cloaths for Persons of Quality in Rome ; and in regard he was a very great Droll , he observ'd their blind sides , to make Lampoons upon 'em in his Shop , which always gain'd him good Company . They add that sometime after his Decease the Paviers digging before his Door found a Statue , to which they presently gave the Name of Pasquin , and set it up in the next Quarter to his House . However it were , it was propos'd to one of the Popes , that it might be thrown into Tiber , to take away all Opportunities of Libelling and Lampoons that were fix'd upon it . But the Holy Father made answer that he was afraid it would turn to a Frog that would be croaking Day and Night : intimating thereby , that instead of stopping the Course of Satyrs , the Lampooners would fix 'em upon all the Statues in the City .

Not far from the Capitol stands another Statue call'd Manforio , where generally are hung up the Answers made to the Lampoons which are fix'd upon Pasquin . Some say this Statue was erected in honour or Jupiter Panarius ; others that it is a Statue of the Rhine . because that formerly the Emperot Domitian's Brazen Horse set his Foot upon the Head of it .

There is no City in the World wherein there are more Magnificent Palaces . The Learned Mr. Spon , in his Travels into the East has given us a Catalogue of 'em , which has sav'd me the trouble . I shall only say , that the Palace of the Farnezi is one of the most sumptuous . It has four Fronts with a large Gate belonging to every one that leads into the Court , and is surrounded with Pillars forming Portico's that support an open Gallery that leads to every Apartment , In this Court stand two Statues of Hercules leaning upon his Club ; one of which was found in Caracalla's Baths ; the other is an Imitation of That . In the Palace Hall stands the Statue of Alexander Farneze , Duke of Parma , who tramples under foot two Statues representing Heresie and Rebellion , while Fame sets a Crown upon his Head . This Piece is so much the more esteem'd , because all the four Peices are all of one single Stone of White Marble . There are an infinite number of other Lovely Statues and Pictures in the Apartments belonging to this Palace : More particularly there is to be seen a Marble Statue in a small Back-Court , representing the Figure of a Bull , all of one Stone , having one of the Horns ty'd with a Woman's Hair , while two Men endeavour to throw 'em into the Sea . 'T is the History of Amphion and Zethes , who in revenge of the injury done their Mother , whom Lycus King of Thebes had repudiated , upon the Importunity of Dirce , ty'd Dirce to the Horns of a Bull , and cast 'em both Headlong into the Sea .

One of the Curiosities of Rome , which Strangers always visit , is to be found in Prince Ludovisio's Palace ; that is to say , the Body of a Man petrefy'd and laid in a Velvet Box , with one Leg broken , to convince the Incredulity of the Curious , who will not believe that the Skeleton was cover'd with Stone , because they say it was a Garment made on purpose . This justifies what Ortelius affirms , That upon certain Mountains of Tartary , there are to be found Men , Camels , Sheep , & e. chang'd into Stones for above Three Hundred Years past : And ▪ Aristotle reports that there is a Cave near Bergamo , where are to be seen the Petrify'd Bodys of several Men.

When I enumerated the Churches of Rome , I forgot to tell ye , that in the Church call'd La Bocca di Verita , there is a piece of Marble representing a Head with the Mouth open ; And the Good Women do say , that if a Woman Unfaithful to her Husband's Bed , lays her Hand upon it , the Mouth will shut . The Roman Women who have Jealous and Credulous Husbands , frequently justifie their Chastity by this means , wherein they run far less hazard then they who formerly were constrain'd to walk bare-foot over red hot Coals , and Plough-shares .

This is what I purpos'd to say of the Famous City of Rome , wherein though I have omitted many things , yet there is sufficient to give an Advantageous Idea of it to those who have never seen it ; and to breed in others a desire of seeing it .

CHAP. XII . Of the Kingdom of Naples .

THERE is not any State in Italy of that vast Extent as the Kingdom of Naples . Some Italian Authors have call'd it Sicily on this side the Pharos , which is the reason that the Kings of Spain have assum'd the Title of Kings of both Sicilies . Generally this Kingdom is divided into Twelve Provinces ; viz. La Terra di Lavore , Principato Giteriore , Principato Vlteriore , Calabria Vlteriore , La Terra d' Otranto , La Terra di Bari , La Capitanata , the County of Molisso , the hithermost Abruzzo , and the furthermost Abruzzo : It is reckon'd to contain 24 Archbishopricks , 60 Principalities , 100 Dukedoms , as many Marquisates , 66 Earldoms , and above 1000 Baronies . Which shews us , that the Nobility multiplies in that Kingdom , more then any where else ; which is the reason that Naples is call'd Naples the Noble . The Air is very wholsome , and the Country very fruitful in Corn , Wine , and all sorts of Fruits , This Kingdom has not been free from Revolutions that have turmoyl'd the Repose of Italy upon several Occasions . It has been in the Possession of the Romans , Goths , Lombards , Normans , Suabians , French and Spaniards . Which latter Usurp'd it from the French who have an undoubted claim to it , as well by the Investiture given by Clement IV. both of that Kingdom , as also of Sicily , to Charles of France , Duke of Anjou and Provence , Brother of St. Lewis in 1265. as for that Queen Joan I. by her last Will and Testament , dated June 29 , 1480. adopted Lewis of France I. of that Name : Jane II. who possessed the Throne from the Year 1414. till the Year 1434. adopted Rene of France , Sirnam'd , The Good ; which acquir'd him a double Right . But Ferdinand King of Spain , contrary to the Treaty made with Lewis XII . King of France , sent a Puissant Army into Italy , under the leading of the Famous Gonsalvo , who drove the French out of Naples and Sicily ; since which time the Spaniards have been in possession of 'em , and keep a Viceroy there , who is chang'd every three Years . The Kingdom of Naples holds of the Holy See ; and the King of Spain pays every year to the Pope upon St. Peter's Day a Tribute of a White Nag , and a Purse of 7000 Ducats . But the Neapolitans do not willingly brook the Spanish Yoak : And therefore they have endeavour'd to cast it off several Times : But their last Insurrection was in the years 1646. and 1647. tho they fail'd in the success , because the Design was ill laid , and ' for that the Male-Contents had no body to head em but a sorry Fisherman , vulgarly known by the Name of Masaniello , who for above 15 Days Commanded above 200000 Men , who paid him a blind Obedience .

This Kidgdom that stretches it self forth in Form of a Peninsula , is bounded to the East by the Ionian Sea ; to the North by the Gulph of Venice , by the Tuscan Sea to the South ; and by the Ecclesiastical Territories to the West . It is about 500 Miles Broad , and 1500 in Circuit .

The City of Naples , the Metropolitan of this flourishing Kingdom , is seated upon the Sea-Shore ; formerly call'd Parthenopea , and is defended by three Citadels provided with all things necessary to keep the Neapolitans under the Spanish Yoke ; of which one is call'd the Norman Castle , as being founded by William III. Duke of Normandy and King of Naples : The Second call'd the New Castle , was built by Charles I. Brothrr to St. Lewis ; but Ferdinand King of Arragon , who understood the importance of it , caus'd it to be fortify'd after an extraordinary manner ; and it has always a Garrison in it of 500 Natural Spaniards . The Castle of St. Elmo which cemmands one part of the City , was built by Robert I. the Son of Charles II. and the Emperor Charles V. after he had caus'd it to be well fortify'd , call'd it the Bridle of Naples . Besides these Castles there are also some Towres and other Buildings , which are call'd by the Name of Fortresses , as the Capuan Castle , which however are of no other use then for the Councils of Justice and the Civil Government to Assemble in .

The Viceroy's Palace is very spacious , richly Furnish'd , and incloses several Curiosities , among others , a Plant about Two Fingers in breadth , and about a Foot and a halfe long , upon which the Ancients wrote before the use of Paper was invented . A Stone , which being scrap'd , yields a kind of Cotton , of which the Pagans made a certain sort of Cloth to wrap the Dead Bodies , which they burnt , by reason that this Cloth being incombustible , preserv'd the Ashes of the Corps entire , This sort of Cloth is in use among some People in India ; the nature of it being such , that when 't is Foul , 't is but throwing it into the Fire , and it becomes as white as Snow .

The Port of Naples would be one of the best Ports in Italy ▪ were it but shelter'd from the South-East Wind. The City is very neatly Built ; The Streets are Broad , Long , and as Streight as a Line , and so order'd ▪ that there runs a Canal through every Street , as in the Cities of Holland , which receive the Filth and Nastiness through Iron Grates , so that the Streets are always clean . It may be about Six Miles in compass , comprehending the Seven Suburbs ; and it has been all along the Residence of Illustrious Men , by reason of the mild and temperate Air which it enjoys ; in the number of which we may reckon Virgil , Livie , Horace , Seneca , &c.

The Cathedral Church is Dedicated to St. Januarius formerly Bishop of Beneventum , who is the Fourteenth Patron that the Neapolitans have made choice of : and they keep the Blood of this Saint as a Sacred Relique , which is congeal'd in Vessels : but if they lay it to the Saints Head , such is the Story which they tell , it presently turns Liquid , and rowls up into little Bubbles .

As for the Neapolitan Money , they reckon all by Carolino's ; every Carolino being worth about Ten Sols of France : the Spanish Pistol goes for Three and thirty Carolino's ; a Sequin for Twenty Carolino's ; a Piaster weighs Nine Carolino's ; besides which , they have some small Copper-Money , that goes in the Markets .

After that Strangers have seen the Curiosities of Naples , they visit the Wonders in the parts adjoyning : for an infinite number of surprizing Things that are to be met with in the Kingdom of Naples , may well be call'd by that Name .

The Mountain Vesuvius may well deserve to be plac'd in the First rank of these Wonders , as being so frequently all in a Flame . Not to mention that Inundation of Fire which hap'ned in Titus's Reign , wherein Plinie was a little too far engag'd , out of Curiosity ; nor of several others ; I shall only say , that this Mountain , which is above Seven Leagues from Naples , continually vomits forth Fire , sometimes more , sometimes less violently ; which has many times laid wast the Country , and very much annoy'd the City of Naples . There was formerly upon this Hill , the Loveliest Vineyards in the Country , and a very beautiful Village , containing above 2500 Inhabitants ; but in the year 1631. this Infernal Chimney , as Tertullian calls it , vomited forth such a Deluge of Flames , accompanied with a Torrent of Sulphur , and a Shower of Stones , that all the poor People were either burnt of stifl'd , and their Town was buried in the Cinders , that lay more then Ten Foot thick above the Steeple of the Church . Stones are also there to be seen , of a prodigious igness , and there are People still living , that beheld a Torrent of Sulphur , Alome and Salt-Peter fall from the Top of the Mountain . Some time before this dismal Ravage , the Smoak , that issu'd continually forth , increas'd , and was intermix'd with Flames and Ashes ; soon after , it was accompany'd with a noise so dreadful , that you would have thought that nature was about to have been swallow'd up : this noise was attended with an Earthquake that swell'd up the Sea ; and at length the Mountain bursting , pieces of Rock , all of a light Fire , flew out , and the Sulphur that ran down , floated upon the Sea no less then Three Miles from the Shore ; and 't is thought that if the Wind had not prov'd favourable to the City of Naples , it had been buried in the Cinders that flew from the Mountain . This terrible accident is engrav'd upon a Marble Stone , that stands in the High way which leads from Naples to Vesuvius , Several People out of Curiosity , have gone up to the top of the Mountain , by a way cut out of the Ashes for above Two Miles together , and found at the top of the Mountain , a wide Abyss , about Two Miles in circumference , and as many deep ; wherein there appear'd another , no less wide then the First , from whence issu'd out a thick Smoak that smelt of Sulphur .

The Mountain Pausilipus is remarkable for the Subterraneal way cut through the Mountain for above a Mile together , thô it be all of Free Stone ; This Cavern is call'd The Grotto of Naples , and was made to shorten the Passage from Naples to Puzzuolo . For in regard that Mountain stretches out into the Sea , like a Promontory there is no passage left upon the Shore : So that before that Way was made , the Ascent and Descent of the Mountain was very painful and laborious . There are some who averr it to be the Work of Lucullus ; others ascribe it to Cocceius Nerva : But however it were , the way is about a Mile in length , and between Twelve and Thirteen Foot high , and so broad that Two Coaches may goe a Breast , There is no Light comes into it but by the two Entrances , and by two small Overtures , which Alphonso VII . King of Naples caus'd to be boar'd through the top of the Grotto , much about the middle of it , where there is a Lamp continually burning before the Image of the Virgin ; but notwithstanding the Darkness of the Place , you are never pester'd , by reason that they who come from Naples , always keep the Right hand , and they who Travel thither take the Left .

Virgil's Tomb stands in the Garden of Severino , shaded with Laurels , almost at the entrance into the Grotto .

After this you must see the Lake Avernus , which Virgil calls The Lake of Hell , because the Birds that fly over it , are poison'd with the stench that exhales from the Water . It may be above Two thousand Paces long , and half as broad . The Ancients faign'd that Charon ply'd there with his Boat , in regard the River Acheron forms this Lake , upon the Banks of which are to be seen the Ruines of the Temple of Apollo .

Nor is the Lake d'Agnano far from it , environn'd with Mountains , and thought to be bottomless in the middle . Thô the Water be full of Serpents , yet has it the good Quality to Cure such Beasts , as entring into such a venemous Grotto adjoyning , call'd The Dogs Grotto , are dragg'd , halfe stifl'd with the Sulphurie Steam , that in an hours time would kill 'em quite .

The Lake Lucrinus , the most abounding in Fish of any in the Kingdom , formerly intermix'd with Avernus , by means of a Canal : But in 1538. or as others say , upon Michaelmas Night in 1636. an Earthquake , not only fill'd up the Canal , but sett a Mountain above Four Miles in compass , between the Two Lakes .

The Alome Mountain yields a great Revenue to the King of Spain . The Ancients made an Infernal Mansion of it , and plac'd Vulcan's Work-house there ; because they saw nothing but Flames all Night upon it , and Smoak all Day ; and for that the Sulphurie Vapour infected the Air for above a League round ; The Trench , from which this Smoak arises , being a Thousand Foot wide , and Fifteen hundred in length . All the Land about Puzzuolo is nothing but Sulphurie Earth , so that you shall see the Smoak rise under your Feet through the Clefts in the High way , occasion'd by the Drowth of the Weather .

Not far from the Mountain of Brimstone , lies the Vsurers Lake , because it never restores any thing that is plung'd into the Water , which is very black , thick , and bolls all day long . If you throw Meat into it , it comes out halfe boil'd , and the one halfe of it consum'd : And if you put into it Three Eggs in a close Basket , 't is said , that be as cautious as you can , you shall pull out but Two , the Lake taking the Third as due for Tribute .

Near Puzzuolo , is a Subterraneal Labyrinth , into which you must not enter without lighted Torches , and a Skein of Thread , which you must be very careful to preserve from breaking , unless you will run the hazard of losing your way . This Labyrinth is compos'd of an infinite number of Rooms , one within another : And there are likewise to be seen in the same place , some Ruins of the Temples of Diana and Neptune : Nero's Stoves , that yield a very great Heat ; Four Chambers furnish'd with Stone Beds , and Boulsters of the same Materials , would entice a Man to take his Rest there , were they not a little of the hardest : Cicero's Baths are in a large Room , where the Letters are scrap'd out that were written upon the Roof , because that Sick People were so vain as to believe they should be Cur'd so soon as they had read 'em . Others affirm , that those Inscriptions were only the Names of such sick People as those Baths had Cur'd , but that the Physitians caus'd 'em to be raz'd out , under pretence that they were Magical Characters .

The Baths of Tirtola lie not far distant ; being a very long Grotto , into which you are no sooner enter'd but you begin to sweat ; but when you are at the end of the Grotto , you feel less heat : And if you feel it too hot , you need no more then stoop to the Ground , and there comes up a coolness very refreshing . 'T is said that at the farther end of this Grotto there are Baths that are qualify'd with excellent Vertues ; but that they are but very little frequented , by reason the Access to 'em is so frightful .

About a 100 Paces from the Lake Lucrinus , you meet with other Baths , some cold , others hot . These are Caverns in the Rock , wherein they have cut out certain Receptacles to Bath in . When you enter into the cold Baths , there are several Chambers hew'd out of the Rock , where there are a great number of those Receptacles , some full , others empty . 'T is said that every Receptacle had a peculiar vertue to cure several Distempers ; and they know 'em by the Statues erected near the Receptacles , laying a hand upon the part affected .

When you leave these Baths , you ascend some Steps that are cut out of the Rock which lead to the hot Baths ; and when you have gone forward about 20 or 30 Paces , there is a deep place full of Water almost boyling hot ; on the side of which there is a Grotto . ; but the Descent into it is so hot , that it fetches out the Sweat by very great drops , because the Vapours and Exhalations are so violent .

Near to Cumae , which is lookt upon to be the Mother of Naples , is to be seen the Grotto of the Cumaean Sybil , which though a Pagan , foretold the Birth of Christ , and the Mysteries of the Incarnation . You enter into it through a long and wide Walk cut out of the Rock , which formerly led to the City of Cumae . After you have gone 450 Paces , upon the right hand you meet with a very low Door , which leads into a Chamber 14 Foot long , and 8 wide , the Roof of which is painted with Gold and Azure , and the Walls inlay'd with Coral , and Mother of Pearl . On the left hand of that Chamber , is another Door which leads into a Walk cut out of the Rock also , 4 Foot high , and 40 long . At the end of it is a Chamber that leads into two other Chambers , in the one of which is a kind of a small Lake : Now in regard the Room is very hot , and for that you cannot tarry long in it without Sweating , 't is conjectur'd that it was the Sybil's Bath . And because that all these Apartments are under ground , and for that no Light comes into 'em , you must take care to be well furnish'd with Flambeaus , or Wax-Candles , and to be no less cautious that they do not go out . Now because all the Rocks in this part of the Kingdom of Naples are full of these Grotto's , 't is thought that the Ancient Inhabitants liv'd under ground .

After you have taken a view of all the Rarities about Puzzuolo , you take Boat and slip over to Baiae , which lies not above 4 Miles distant , and where there are also several Remarkable Curiosities . More especially some Ruins of Caligula's famous Bridge , who to fulfil the Prophesie of an Astrologer , that in the time of Tiberius foretold that Caligula should be Emperor when he should ride on Horseback over the Golph between Puzzuolo and Baiae , joyn'd to the Bridge which the Romans had then already begun , two rows of Ships stay'd by huge Anchors , over which he laid a great number of Planks , and so rode over both on Horseback , and in his Chariot . There are some who believe that Caligula did not only design the fulfilling of that Prophesie , but that he was at that vast expence , to imitate Xerxes , and to terrisie the People of Europe that were unsubdu'd at that time . The Sand all along that Coast has two peculiar Qualities ; that although the Water be cold , the Sand at the bottom of the Sea is so hot that you can scarce endure to touch it , and when it comes out of the Water , it becomes as hard as Marble .

It was at Baiae where Agrippina was stabb'd by the Command of Nero her Son , who was so cruel as to rip open her Body , that he might inspect the place where he had lain Nine Months . This Misfortune was foretold that Princess long before . For having consulted the Oracle concerning the Destiny of the Fruit which she bare in her Womb ; answer was return'd her , Thou shalt bring forth a Son who shall be Emperor , but he shall put Thee to Death . To which she reply'd . Let him put me to Death , provided that he Reign . Her Tomb is in a Grotto , where there is a Cave cut out of the Rock , adorn'd with some Sculptures which represent the Empress surrounded with some Birds of Prey .

There is also a certain Subterraneal Structure to be seen at Baiae , which is call'd Piscina Mirabile , or , The Wonderful Fish-Pond . It is supported with about 45 or 50 Pillars , and lin'd with Ciment ; which makes People believe that it is a Cistern wherein the Ancients preserv'd Rain-water for their Drink , in regard that all the Water thereabout tastes strong of the Minerals .

There is another Subterraneal Structure , call'd the hundred Little Chambers , all built of Brick , wherein they formerly put their Slaves belonging to the Galleys that always Winter'd at Baiae . There are an infinite number of Curiosities more in the parts about Puzzuolo and Baiae : and without question , there is no part of Europe where there are to be seen the Ruines of so many Pagan Temples , Tombs , Amphitheaters , Aqueducts , Grotto's , Palaces , &c. So that in regard it would take up above six Months for a Traveller to take up an exact view of all those Rarities , it would require a Volume in Folio to make a faithful Enumeration and Description of 'em .

But though I am leaving the Parts adjoyning to Puzzuolo , yet I am not quitting the Kingdom of Naples , before I have made some other Remarks worthy the Reader 's Curiosity .

In the Province of Tarentum , there are a sort of Lizards , by which if a Man be bitten , he cannot be cur'd but by Dancing , and the sound of Instruments . They add further , that these Animals never bite any but the People of the Country , and that it was a Punishment which befel 'em , because that being Dancing one Day , they would not quit their Jollity but for so long time till the Host past by 'em .

The Territory of Otranto is a kind of Peninsula , environ'd with the Adriatick and Ionick Seas , and much infested with Locusts , that are pursu'd and hunted after by a sort of Birds not to be seen in other Parts . The City of Otranto , the Metropolis of the Province is considerable for being an Archbishoprick , and for the Haven from whence they generally take Shipping for Greece . In former time Pyrrhus had a design to have joyn'd Greece to Italy with a Bridge of Ships , in that part where Otranto stands , though the two Coasts are above 60 Miles , or 25 French Leagues asunder . Otranto had the Misfortune to be plunder'd by the Turks in 1481. but it was nothing near so strong then , as it is now .

Brindisi , or Brundusium : another Archbishopprick and Haven , famous for the Passage of Julius Caesar into Greece , in pursuit of Pompey , whom he Besieg'd , and forc'd to retire into Epirus .

The Extrrordinary Devotion that oblig'd several Emperors and Kings to visit Mount St. Angelo , especially the Emperor Otho , who Travell'd Bare-foot to Rome with all his Court , engages me to say something of it . 'T is reported that St , Michael having had a Vision in those parts . made choice of it for the Place of his Abode , and digg'd a Grotto in the Rock . A Marble Portal leads into this Subterraneal Cavern , and you go down a descent of 55 Marble Steps into it . There is to be seen the little Altar consecrated by St. Michael himself , together with several other Chappels under Ground : Besides , there is a Fountain of Water of Sovereign Vertue for the Cure of several Distempers . The Devotion paid to this Place , and the Resort of People to it , has occasion'd the building of a City and several Churches .

Rossano is another Archiepiscopal City of Calabria , for nothing considerable but for the Church of St. Maries . into which the Women are not admitted to enter : For which the People of the Country give this Reason . The Holy Virgin , say they , having shew'd St. Bartholomew the Place where he should build that Church , she still appear'd to him at a distance from the Enclosure of the Walls , while the Church was building , and commanded that Saint not to let any Woman enter into it but to order 'em to stand without and hear Mass . They further add , that some Women happening to go in , either out of Curiosity , or Devotion , there arose such a violent Storm of Rain , Hail and Thunder , that never ceas'd till the Women were gone out , and had given Testimonies of their Repentance for their Rashness ; and they pretend that their Ancestors have seen several Tryals in Confirmation of the Truth of this Story .

Salerno , the Metropolis of the hithermost Principato , derives its Name from the little Rivers of Salo and Erno , that water the Territory belonging to it . When Naples was Govern'd by particular Kings of their own , their eldest Sons bore the Title of Princes of Salerno . In the Convent of Jacobins , there is a Bell that sometimes Towls alone of it self ; and they pretend that such a spontaneous Towling , presages the approaching death of some Fryer in the Convent .

Amalfi in the same Province is famous for the invention of the Needle and Compass , and for being the First place that contributed to the Order of the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem .

Capoua . An Archiepiscopal City in the Terra di Lavoro , was formerly accounted the third City in the World ; Rome and Carthage being the other two . It is now seated about two Miles distant from the place , where ancient Capua stood : nor is considerable for any thing but the Name of it , and some deplorable Ruins of her Ancient Theaters , Aqueducts , Portico's , Temples and Subterraneal Vaults . It was formerly call'd the Mansion of Pride and Pleasure , as well by reason of the Magnificence of it ; as for that Hannibal in one Winter Quarter of a year , was so soften'd and effeminated with the Pleasures and Delights of that City , that he was no longer able to withstand the Romans , whom he had so often defeated before .

Gaeta is another City in the same Province , built by Aeneas's Nurse in honor of his Nurse Caieta The Castle belonging to it , is considerable for the strength of it , and is well provided of all things necessary for the defence of it . The Statue of Charles of Bourbon , Constable of France , is also there to be seen , who being in the Service of Charles V. was slain at the Siege of Rome , and lies buried at Caieta . Upon his Tomb are written the four following Verses in Spanish .

Francia me clio la leche , Espagna suerte y ventura . Roma me clio la muerte Y Caieta la Sepultura . My Infant Milk I Suckt in France , Spain did my Lot and Fame advance ; Death snatcht me from the Walls of Rome , And now Caieta has my Tomb.

The Dolphins that appear upon this Coast are very large , which gives an occasion to conclude this Chapter with a report of an accident that befell a Seaman of Caieta . That a Sea-man having caught one of these Fish , preserv'd it alive in a small Pond , and tam'd him to that degree , that he would often get upon his Back , and managing him with his Voice only , accustom'd the willing fish , proud of his burden , to carry him for his Pleasure to and fro upon the wide Sea . Some time after it happen'd , that the Sea-man embarking for Spain , the Fish made his escape to follow the Vessel in which he heard his Masters Voice : and it so fell out , that the Ship being cast away , the faithful Fish distinguish'd his Master from among all the rest that cry'd out for Help , and having taken him upon his Back , return'd with him to the Port from whence he set out .

CHAP. XIII . Os the Islands and Kingdoms of Sicily and Sardigna .

SOme Authors have written , that Sicily which is the biggest Island in the Mediterranean , with the Title of a Kingdom , was formerly joyn'd to Italy , and that a storm of Wind occasion'd the separation ; others assert , that it was divided from it by an Earthquake . It was first inhabited by Giants , by Listrigons and Cyclops ; it was likewise call'd The Island of the Sun , and Trinacrea , by reason of the Three Promontories of Faro , Passaro and Boco , which are so plac'd . that the whole Island resembles a Greek Delta . It is seated between 36 and 40 Degree of Longitude , and the Latiude extends from the 35 to 88 Degree . The circuit of the Sea-coast takes up a Hundred Fourscore and Ten Leagues ; where it is longest ; Sixty Leagues in length , and Fifty , where it is broadest . 'T is but Seven Miles from Cape Faro to Seiglio in the Kingdom , of Naples . Some will have this Island to hang in the Seas , being supported only by Three Pillars that are under the Three Promontories , and to justifie their Opinion , assert , That the River Salso , that rises out of a Hole in the middle of the Island , comes from the Sea , by reason the Water is Salt .

The Air is very wholesome , thô somewhat of the hottest for Strangers . The Soil is so fertile in Corn , Wine , and all sorts of Fruits , that Sicily was call'd the Granary of Italy . The Honey , Oil , Wax , Sugar , Saffron , &c. which are all the Products of that Island , draw a great Trade to it . Besides , there are found in this Island , great store of Agates , Emraulds , Jasper , Porphyrie , Salt , and several Mineral Mines : and all the Sea-coasts abound in Fish .

When the Roman Empire fell to decay , Sicily was plunder'd and Usurp'd by the Vandals . After that the Saracins settl'd in it , till they were expell'd by the Normans in 1070. Charles of France , Duke of Anjou , Count of Provence , and Brother of St. Lewis . was invested in the Kingdoms of Naples and Sicily , and the French remain'd Masters of it till the year 1282 , or as others say , 1283. at what time , upon an Easter day , at the Hour of Vespers , the Sicilians , sollicited by the Arragonians , Massacred all the French in the Churches , little dreaming of such a fatal surprize : and this was the Massacre which still carries the Name of the Sicilian Vespers . Since that , the Spaniards setl'd themselves there . and are still in possession of it , sending a Viceroy thither to Govern it .

Spanish Pistoles , Piasters and Reals , as also Sequins of Venice goe currant in Sicilie , provided the Pieces be weight ; for they Coin no other Money but Tarins . A Spanish Pistole is worth Forty Tarins ; and the Venetian Sequin , Twenty four : Every Tarin is worth about Five Sols of France . When they make any Payment , they reckon all by Ounces ; and by an Ounce they mean 30 Tarins , which make Seven Livres , Ten Sols of France .

One of the Customs observ'd in Sicily , and which appears very ridiculous in France , is , that neither Women nor Men , if they have no Beards upon their Chins , can Lodge in the Inns , unless they be particularly acquainted with some Person of Worth in the place , or without very sufficient and Authentick Certificates . There are also Guards appointed to visit the Inns in the Night time , and to look into the Beds , and see whether there be any Chins without Beards . They likewise seize upon all that are abroad in the Streets Two Hours after Night is shut in , and they who are so apprehended , are Fin'd , if the cause of their being late out be not sufficient to excuse 'em . This Island is infested with so many Robbers , that 't is a difficult thing for a Man to stir halfe a League out of the City , without losing his Cloak-bag , if he scape with his Throat . So that the People never Travel by Land but in Caravans , or without good Convoys , and you must take a great care too , lest the Convoys allow'd ye be not Thieves themselves . There is nothing expos'd to Sale in Sicily , either in the Shops or in the Markets , till the Commissaries of the Civil Government have set the price : and it would be an unpardonable Crime for any Merchant or Countryman to sell his Wares or Provision dearer then the sett Rate .

The Sicilians for the most part , and they that inhabit the Coasts of Calabria , wear a Bonnet of Goats-Skin undrest , their Hair being matted or plaited flat behind ; A Doublet with great Skirts , neither Band nor Cravatt , their Breeches very strait , a Cloak of the same Stuff which the Chimney-Sweepers in Savoy wear , which they fling under their Left Arm , with a Sword and Pistol by their sides . Their Shooes are made of the Rind of Bacon well Curry'd , which lasts a long time : But the Poor have no more then a bare Sole made of the Bark of a Tree , ty'd about their Feet with Packthread : And as for People of Quality , they wear Pumps after the Spanish fashion .

Palermo is the Metropolis of the Kingdom , an Archiepiscopal See , and the Residence of the Viceroy , whose Train is more splendid then the King of Spain's . The Air is temperate , the Haven , the Fountains , and the Magnificence of the Buildings , contribute not a little to render Palermo a pleasant Habitation ; and therefore the Chiefest of the Nobility reside there . In the Great Piazza that faces the Palace , stands the Statue of Philip IV. upon a Pedestal , upon which are represented the Victories of that Monarch , supported by Four Figures representing the Four Virtues , the whole of White Marble . In another Piazza stands a Brass Statue of Charles V. upon a Pedestal of Marble . In the meeting of the new Street and Cassaron street , which are two of the fairest Streets in Palermo , is to be seen the Palace , a noble Fountain ; and Four Statues of the King 's of Spain , Charles V. Philip II. III. IV. which are the most beautiful Ornaments of the City .

In the Piazza right against the Palace of Justice stands a Fountain , which deservedly is lookt upon to be the most beautiful in Europe . It consists of several hollow Receptacles , one above another , separated by Galeries , whither you ascend to admire the variety of large Animals that spout forth Water after different manners . The whole is of Marble , with a great number of Figures of the same Stone .

After that you have seen all that is curious in Palermo , Travellers go to visit Mount Peregrin , at the top of which , after an ascent of Three Miles , you meet with a Cave , almost like that of St. Beaume in Provence , which was the retirement of Sta Rasalia , and 't is reported that the Fountain within that Grotto has a peculiar Quality to Heal several Distempers .

Thô the City of Mont Real be not above Four Miles distant from Palermo , however it is an Archiepiscopal See . From thence there is a Prospect of Nine Islands , call'd by the Name of Lipari , which is the name of the most considerable among 'em . Of which two , Vulcano and Stromboli , are not inhabited , because of their continual vomiting forth Flames and Smoak ; for which reason they are call'd the Burning Islands of Sicily .

However , these Islands are not to be taken confusedly for Mount Aetna , commonly call'd Mount Gibello , the highest Mountain in Sicily ; which thô almost cover'd with Snow , yet continually vomits forth flames of Fire , like a Glass-house Furnace ; and spreads the Ashes of the consum'd Materials with that impetuosity , that the Country is frequently much endamaged thereby : thô if the same Ashes are but moderately scatter'd over the Ground , they enfertilize the Earth . The City of Catanea , lying under this Mountain , has suffer'd many Conflagrations , occasion'd by the sparkles of this Infernal Gulph . Several Persons that have been so curious as to climb to the Top of Mount Gibello , have been either lost in the Snow , or buried in the Ashes , and many times the Flames enforce their way through Chawns and Rifts ne'r known before , with such an amazing noise , as alarms all the Island . Not far from Mount Gibello is the place where some will have it , that Ceres first began to sow Wheat ; and they will undertake to shew ye the Meadows where Hercules fed his Oxen.

The Lake Naphtica is noted for this , that the stench of the Water is so noisom , that it poisons the adjacent Air , and very much impairs the Health of the neighbouring Inhabitants .

There is another Lake near Castro Giovanni , which is said to have no bottom ; 'T is call'd the Lake of Proserpina , upon a suspition that it was the place where Proserpina was Ravish'd , and carried to the Infernal Regions by her Ravisher .

Messina is an Archiepiscopal City , famous for the Haven that belongs to it , near Cape Faro , which makes it a Town of Great Trade , and much frequented by Foreigners . In the Grand Piazza stands a Brass Statue of Philip IV. upon a Horse of the same Metal ; the whole Adorn'd with Base-Reliefs , representing his most famous Actions . Over the Door of a Tower near the Metropolitan Church , stands a French Inscription . Grand-merci a Messina , in remembrance , as they say , that the French began with Messina , when they made themselves Masters of the Island .

There are several other Whirlpools , or Abysses of Water in the Sea adjoyning to Messina , among the rest , Charybdis , Famous among the Latin Poets . This Whirlpool is about Thirty Paces in Diameter ; which compass of the Surface is usually cover'd with Froth , Bulrushes , and other foul excrescencies of the Sea , which throw themselves into it , and are swallow'd up by it . Nevertheless , the Mariners of Messina , Sail over in flat bottom'd Barks , where after several times being whirl'd and turn'd about , they row themselves back .

The Tides of Ebb and Flood are so rapid in the Channel that separates Sicily from Italy , that they many times force the Vessels riding there , from their Anchors , let 'em be never so strong ; which is the loss of many a Ship .

Saragossa or Syracuse was formerly lookt upon as the largest and most Magnificent City in the Universe . Athens beheld her self abandon'd by the Greatest part of her Inhabitants , who betook themselves to settle at Syracuse : And the most sumptuous Edifices in Rome , derive their chiefest Ornaments from the Spoils of her Structures . The most beautiful Ruin of her Antiquity remaining is the Aqueduct , cut out of a Rock , that carries the Water over the Haven , about Ten Miles in length . Without the City is to be seen Arethusa's Fountain that rises in great abundance , out of a Rock by the Sea-side ; and they report , that this Water comes from the Holy Land , by a conveyance that runs under the Abysses of the Sea . But the greatest Evidence that they alleadge for it is this , That a Pilgrim one day taking up Water , out of the River Alpheus , by chance let his Dish fall into the River , and lost it to his incredible Grief ; for that he had hid within it Seven Pistoles for unforeseen occasions . That embarking to return for Europe , he landed in Sicily , and going to the Fountain Arethusa to Drink , he found his Dish floating upon the Water , which he knew again , not only by the Seven Pistoles , but by several other marks .

Dionysius , the Tyrants Grotto , lies not far distant from Saragossa , much more considerable than any of those about Puzzuolo , For there you may see a whole City cut out of a Rock , with subterraneal Streets , Palaces , Piazza's , and other admirable Structures . But you must have some notable Antiquarie for your guide , that knows all the Turnings and Windings , and be well provided with Matches and Torches .

There are several other Islands between Sicily and Barbary , as Maltha , Gozes , Limosa , Lampadousa , &c. but in regard they rather belong to Africa then Europe , I shall say nothing of 'em here . Nevertheless , I cannot forbear observing , that in the last there is a Chappel , where you shall meet with all sorts of Refreshments for Sea faring People , and all that is necessary for Navigation , as Biscuit , Cordage , Anchors , Sails , Oil , Wood , Fish , Stuffs , &c. And all that Sail near that Island , and have occasion for any of those things , goe and fetch 'em from that Chappel , leaving the value in other Commodities , with which their Vessel is best provided . All Nations , even the Turks themselves , goe thither for what they want ; and 't is said , that if they fail to leave a Compensation , their Ships can stir no farther , let the Wind be never so favourable . We are assur'd , that several have known this to be true by many Tryals . However it be , that Chappel is hewen out of a Rock ; and some Paces from thence , there is a Spring of excellent fresh Water , which will keep sweet a long time at Sea .

As for Sardigna , there are not so many Remarks to be made upon that Island . All that I can say of it is , that 't is an Island in the Mediterranean Sea , with the Title of a Kingdom , belonging to the King of Spain , who Governs it by a Viceroy . The Air is so thick , that formerly such persons were banish'd thither , as the State had a mind to be rid of ; that there is a Breed of Great Dogs there , bigger then the Dogs in England ; and such an infinite number of Rats , that the King of Spain has enjoyn'd all the Owners of Houses , to keep as many Cats as they have Rooms .

The Ancient Sardignians had a Law , which ordain'd , that the Sons should knock out their Parents Brains , when once they came to be Superannuated , for fear the Infirmity of their Minds should incline 'em to commit Faults prejudicial to their Families or the Government .

CHAP. XIV . Of the Island of Corse .

THis Island is seated to the North of Sardigna from whence it is separated by a Channel that may be Sail'd over in an hour , and lies between the 40 and 42 Degree of Latitude , and between the 31 and 32 of Longitude . The largest extent of it from South to North , is about 40 Leagues , 20 Broad , and in Circuit about Fourscore and Ten. It is said to have been so call'd from a Woman of Liguria , whose Name was Corsa Bubulca , who carried thither a Colonie out of her own Country .

The Island of Corse has belong'd to the Genoeses ever since the year 1559. at what time Henry II. Granted it to 'em , at the request of the Spaniards , after the Battel of St. Quintin . Nevertheless , the People are not pleas'd with their Government ; and the Genoeses on the other side , who are afraid of their Revolting , or lest some Foreign Power should make themselves Masters of it , do as much as in them lies to lay it waste ; and give out , that the Air is too unwholsome for People that are not bred there ; Besides that , the Soil is so ungrateful , that it will hardly return the Seed that is sown in it . However , 't is certain that this is spoken , either out of Malice or Sloth ; for that it brings forth Corn , Wine , and all sorts of Fruits , more then sufficient the Inhabitants ; that it produces good Horses , and Timber for Shipping ; and that there are in it several Mines of Copper , Lead , &c. Baths and Mineral Fountains ; among which , that of Povera in the Province of Ampugnano , cures the Dropsie ; Besides that , they fish for Coral upon the Coasts .

Moreover , this Island might be made a place of great Trade ; for that there is no want of good and convenient Havens ; of which , the chiefest are San Fiorenzo , Ajacho , and Porto Vecchio , big enough to contain whole Fleets . The First was formerly Fortifi'd by the French ; but the Genoeses have demolish'd the best Works , having left nothing but the Foundations , which are of Free-stone .

The Corses are good Soldiers , very strong , but very slothful , and no less revengeful ; so that upon their Death-beds they recommend the revenge of Injuries done 'em to their Kindred . Thô there be Five Bishopricks in the Island , yet there is but one considerable City , which is Bastia , the Metropolis of the Country and Residence of the Governor . There are but Five hundred Men in the Pay of the Republick for security of the whole Island ; so that it might be an easie thing to surprize it , especially for those that are stronger at Sea then the Genoeses are .

The END .