SEEING you are so earnest with me to let you know all my Adventures and whatsoever I have observ'd during my Travels , you must therefore be contented ( my dear Cousin ) to bear with a great many trifling Occurrences , before you can meet with what will please you : I know your fancy is so nice and delicate , that none but extraordinary Accidents can entertain you ; and I wish I had no others to relate : but recounting things faithfully , as they have hapned , you must be contented therewith .

I gave you an Account in my last , of what I met with as far as Bayonne : you know this is a Town in France , Frontier to Spain , wash'd by the Rivers Dadour and Nivelle , which joyn together ; and the Sea comes up to them . The Port and Trade are considerable : I came from Axe by Water , and observ'd that the Boat-men of Adour have the same Custom as those of Caronne ; which is to say , That in passing by one another , they set up a Hollowing ; and they had rather lose their Wages than to forbear these sort of Shoutings , although exceeding vexatious to those who are not used to them . There are two Castles strong enough to defend the Town , and there are about it several pleasant Walks .

At my Arrival there , I intreated the Baron de Castlenau , who had accompany'd me from Axe , to bring me acquainted with some Women , with whom I might spend my time with less impatience , till the Litters came , which were to be sent to me from St. Sebastian .

He readily complied with my Request : for being a Person of Quality and Worth , he is much esteem'd at Bayonne . He fail'd not the next Morning to bring several Ladies to visit me .

These Women begin here to feel the scorching Heats of the Sun ; their Complexion is dark , their Eyes sparkling ; they are charming enough , their Wits are sharp : And I could give you a farther Account of their Capacities , could I have better understood what they said : not but that they could all speak French , yet with such a different Dialect , as surpast my Understanding .

Some who came to see me , brought little sucking Pigs under their Arms , as we do little Dogs : it 's true they were very spruce , and several of 'em had Collars of Ribbons , of various Colours : However , this Custom looks very odd , and I cannot but think that several among themselves are disgusted at it : When they danced , they must set them down , and let these grunting Animals run about the Chamber , where they make a very pleasant Harmony . These Ladies danc'd at my Intreaty , the Baron of Castleneau having sent for Pipes and Tabors .

The Gentlemen who attended the Ladies , took each of 'em her whom he had brought with him , and the Dance began in a Round , all holding Hands : they had afterwards long Canes brought them , and then each Spark taking hold of the Lady's Handkerchief , which separated them from one another , moved very gracefully at the Sound of this Martial sort of Musick , which inspired them with such Heat , that they seem'd not to be able to moderate it . This seem'd to me to resemble the Pyrric Dance so much celebrated by the Ancients ; for these Gentlemen and Ladies made so many Turns , Frisks and Capers , their Canes being thrown up into the Air , and dexterously caught again , that it is impossible to describe their Art and Agility : And I had a great deal of Pleasure in seeing 'em ; but methoughts it lasted too long , and I began to grow weary of this ill-ordered Ball ▪ When the Baron de Castleneau , who perceiv'd it , caused several Baskets of dried Fruit to be brought in . They are the Jews who past for Portuguises , and dwell at Bayonne , who transport them from Geroa , and furnish all the Country with them . We wanted not for Limonade , and other refreshing Waters , of which these Ladies drank heartily ; and so the Entertainment ended .

I was carry'd the next Morning to see the Synagogue of the Jews , in the Suburb of the Holy Spirit , but met with nothing remarkable there . Monsieur de St. Pe , the Kings Lieutenant , who came to see me , though much troubled with the Gout , invited me to Dine at his House , where I was most deliciously entertain'd ; for this is a Country abounding with good Cheer , and at cheap Rates . I found here Women of Quality , that were very handsome , whom he had invited to bear me Company . The sight of the Castle , which faces the River , is very pleasant , and has always a good Garrison in it .

At my return to my Lodging , I was surpriz'd to find several Pieces of Linnen , which were brought to me from the Ladies who came to see me , with Baskets full of dried Sweet-meats . This Treatment seem'd to me very obliging , to a Lady whom they had not known above four or five Days . But I must not forget to tell you , there is not any finer Linnen in the World than that which is made in this Country , some of which is open like Net-work , and the Threads of it finer than Hair : And I remember , that travelling thro' the Villages of Bourdeaux , which may be rather call'd Desarts , the poor Peasants living so wretchedly ; yet I found among them as neat Napkins as those used amongst People of Quality at Paris .

I fail'd not to send these Ladies such little Presents which I thought might please them : I perceiv'd they were great Admirers of Ribbons , and wear a great many on their Heads and Ears , which made me send them a great many ; to which I added several Fans : and they , by way of Return , presented me with Gloves , and Thread-Stockins , most delicately knit .

In sending them to me , they desired me to go to the next Chappel , which was not far from my Quarters , where they intended to Regale me with the best Musick the Town would afford but though there were very good Voices , yet there is no great pleasure in hearing them , because they want both Air and Skill .

The Litters which I expected from Spain , being come , I prepared for my Departure ; but I never met any thing dearer than these sort of Equipages ; for each Litter has a Master that accompanies it , who keeps the Gravity of a Roman Senator , being mounted on a Mule , and his Man on another , with which they release ever and anon those that carry the Litter . I had two , I took the greatest for my self and my Child , and had besides four Mules for my Servants , and two others for my Baggage : to conduct them , there were other two Masters and two Men. You see what Charge one is at , to go to Madrid , seeing you must pay not only for their Attendance on you forwards , but the same Price for their return back : However , we must submit to their Customs , and suffer our selves to be peel'd by them .

I found at Bayonne several Turks and Mores , and I think a worse sort of People , and these are Custom-House-Men : I had caused my Trunks to be weigh'd at Paris , that I might have the less to do with these sort of People ; but they were more subtle , or to speak better , more obstinate than I ; so that I was forc'd to give them whatsoever they demanded . Scarcely was I got clear from them , when the Drums , Trumpets , Pipes , and Violins of the Town , came thundring upon me ; they follow'd me farther than St. Anthony's Gate , through which you pass for Spain through Biscaye : they play'd each of them in their way , and all together without any Harmony , which was enough to drive any one out of their Senses : I ordered some Money to be given them , upon which they left persecuting me . As soon as we had left Bayonne , we enter'd into a large barren Heath , where we saw nothing but Chesnut-Trees ; but we afterwards past along by the Sea , whose Sand makes a delightful way , and a pleasant Prospect .

We arriv'd in good time at St. John de Luz : nothing can be pleasanter than this Borough , which is the greatest in France , and the best built ; there are several smaller Cities : its Port lies between two Mountains , which Nature seems to have expresly placed to defend it from Storms ; the River Nivelle disgorges it self therein ; the Sea comes up very high in it , and the greatest Barks come up commodiously to the Key . The Seamen here are very skilful at catching Whales , and other large Fish . We were here very well entertain'd , so that our Tables were covered with all sorts of Wild Fowl : but our Beds were not answerable , being stuck with Feathers whose Pinions ran into our sides , and we wanted Quilts to lay on the top of them : I thought when we were to pay , that I should have had a large Reckoning , but they only demanded of me half a Lewis Dor , when they would have cost more than five Pistoles at Paris . The Situation of St. John de Luz is extreamly agreeable .

In the most spacious part of the Town you see here a very fine Church , built after the Modern Fashion ; and here is a Passage over the River Nivelle , on a Wooden Bridge of great length . Here are Toll-Gatherers , who make you pay for every thing you carry with you , not excepting your Cloaths : This Tax is demanded at their Pleasure ; and it is excessive on Strangers . I was weary with speaking French to 'em , and protesting I was no Spaniard ; they feigning not to understand me , sneering in my Face , and wrapping up their Heads in their Hooded-Gowns ; they seem'd to me to be Thieves , disguised in Capuchins : In short , they tax'd me eighteen Crowns , and would perswade me they used me well , tho' I found the contrary . But I have already told you ( dear Cosin ) , that when you travel this Country , you must stock your self with Patience , and good store of Money .

I saw the Castle of Artois , which seems a strong place ; and a little farther Orognes , where the Biscaye is spoken , without either French or Spanish . I design'd to lye at Iron , which is but three Leagues distant from St. John de Luz and I had set out that after Noon , but the Dispute which we had with the Watch on the Bridge , the Difficulty we had in passing the Mountains of Beotia , and the ill Weather , joyned to other little Difficulties which hapned , were the Cause that it was Night before we arriv'd on the Borders of the River Bidassoa , which separates France from Spain . I observ'd along the way from Bayonne thither , little Carriages , on which they transport every thing , which have only two Iron Wheels , and the Noise they make is so great , that they are heard a mile off , when there are many of them together , which often happen ; for you often meet with Sixty or Seventy at a time ; they are drawn by Oxen. I have seen the same in the Villages of Bourdeaux , and especially on the side of Axe .

The River of Bidassoa is usually very small , but the Snows melting , had increas'd it to such a degree , that we had no small trouble to pass it , some in a Boat , and others swimming on their Mules : The Moon shined very bright , by means of which I was shew'd on the right Hand the Isle of Conference , where the Marriage of our King was made with Maria Therese , Infanta of Spain . I saw a while after the Fort of Fontarabia , which belongs to the King of Spain , standing on the Mouth of this small River : the Flux and Reflux of the Sea arrives here . Our Kings heretofore pretended it belong'd to them : there have been such great Contests hereupon , especially by the Inhabitants of Fontarabia , and those of Andaye , that they have several times come to Blows . This oblig'd Lewis the Twelfth , and Ferdinand , to agree , That it should be common to both Nations : the French and the Spaniards take Toll equally ; these last making those pay who pass into Spain , and the former doing the like in relation to those who pass over to France .

War does not hinder Commerce on this Frontier : it 's true they cannot subsist without it , seeing they must perish through Want , did they not assist one another .

This Country call'd Biscaye , is full of high Mountains , where are several Iron Mines : The Biscays climb up the Rocks as easily , and with as great swiftness as Stags : Their Language ( if one may call such Jargon Language ) is very poor , seeing one Word signifies abundance of Things : There are none but those born in the Country that can understand it ; and I am told , that to the end it may be more particularly theirs , they make no use of it in Writing ; they make their Children to read and write French and Spanish , according to which King's Subjects they are . It 's certain , as soon as I past the little River of Bydassoa , I was not understood , unless I spake Castillan ; and not above a quarter of an Hour before , I should not have been understood had I not spoke French .

I found on the other side of this River a Banker of St. Sebastian , to whom I was recommended : he tarried for me , with two of his Relations ; they were cloath'd after the French manner , but ridiculously , their Justau Corps being short and large , and their Sleeves hanging down very short ; those of their Shirts were so large , that they hung down below their Justan Corps : they had Bands without Collars , and Periwigs , one of which had enough Hair for four , and so frizled , as made 'em look as if they were frighted ; iller-drest People you cannot meet with . Those who wear their own Hair , wear it very long and close , parting it on the Crown , and pass part of it behind their Ears : But what kind of Ears think you ? those of Midas were not larger ; and I believe , that to lengthen them , they are stretch'd when they be young : without question they find some kind of Beauty herein .

My three Spaniards made me in bad French most tedious and dull Complements . We past through the Bourg of Tran , which is about a quarter of a League from the River , and came afterwards to Irun , which is distant about another quarter of a League : this little Town is the first of Spain which you meet with , leaving France : it 's ill built , the Streets are unequal , and there 's nothing one can speak of : We entred into the Inn through the Stable , where are the Stairs on which you must ascend to your Chamber ; this is the Country's Fashion . I found this House very light , by a great many Candles , which were as small as Pack-thread ; there were at least forty in my Chamber , fixt on little bits of Wood ; in the midst of 'em stood a Pan of Coals burning , made of Olive Rhines , to take away the scent of the Candles .

I had a great Supper , which my Gallants , the Spaniards had caus'd to be made ready for me ; but all was so full of Garlick , Saffron and Spice , that I could eat nothing : and I had made very bad Cheer , had not my Cook made me a little Ragon of what he could find .

Determining to go but to St. Sebastian the next Morning , which is but seven or eight Leagues , I thought to Dine before I set out : I was sitting at Table , when one of my Women brought me my Watch to wind it up , as it was my Custom at Noon ; it was a striking Watch , of Tompion's make , and cost me fifty Lewises : My Banker , who was by me , shew'd some desire to see it ; I gave it him , with a customary Civility . This was enough : my Blade rises , makes me a profound Reverence , telling me , He did not deserve so considerable a Present ; but such a Lady as I could make no other : That he would engage his Faith and Reputation , that he would never part with my Watch as long as he liv'd ; and that he found himself extreamly oblig'd to me . He kist it at the end of this pleasant Complement , and thrust it into his Pocket , which was deeper than a Sack . You 'l take me to be a gery great Sot , in saying nothing to all this , and I do not wonder at it ; but I confess ingenuously , I was so surpriz'd at his Proceeding , that the Watch was out of sight before I could resolve on what I was to do . My Women , and the rest of my Servants who were about me , stared on me , and I on them , blushing with Shame and Vexation to be thus caught : However , I recollected my self , and considered , that this Man was to pay me a good round Sum of Money for the Charge of my Journey , and to return Money to Bourdeaux , where I had taken it up ; that having Bills of Credit on him , he might use several Tricks to me , and Put-offs , which might make me spend twice the Value of the Watch : In fine , I let him part with it , and endeavour'd to do my self Honour from a thing which gave me great Mortification .

I have learnt , since this little Adventure , that 't is the Custom in Spain , when any thing is presented to one , if he likes it , and kisses your Hand , he may take it with him . This is a very pleasant Fashion , and being sufficiently acquainted with it , 't will be my Fault if I am Trapt again .