Acetaria a discourse of sallets / by J. E. ...

ACETARIA .

SALLETS in general consist of certain Esculent Plants and Herbs , improv'd by Culture , Industry , and Art of the Gard'ner : Or , as others say , they are a Composition of Edule Plants and Roots of several kinds , to be eaten Raw or Green , Blanch'd or Candied ; simple , and per se , or intermingl'd with others according to the Season . The Boil'd , Bak'd , Pickl'd , or otherwise disguis'd , variously accommodated by the skilful Cooks , to render them grateful to the more feminine Palat , or Herbs rather for the Pot , &c. challenge not the name of Sallet so properly here , tho' sometimes mention'd ; And therefore ,

Those who Criticize not so nicely upon the Word , seem to distinguish the * * Olera à frigidis distinct . See Spartianus in Pescennio . Salmas . in Jul. Capitolin . Olera ( which were never eaten Raw ) from Acetaria , which were never Boil'd ; and so they derive the Etymology of Olus , from Olla , the Pot. But others deduce it from 〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉 , comprehending the Vniversal Genus of the Vegetable Kingdom ; as from 〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉 Panis ; esteeming that he who had ‖ ‖ Panis erat primis virides mortalibus Herbae ; Quas tellus nullo sollicitante dabat . Et modo carpebant vivaci cespite gramen ; Nunc epulae tenera fronde cacumen erant . Ovid , Fastor . iv . Bread and Herbs , was sufficiently bless'd with all a frugal Man cou'd need or desire : Others again will have it , ab Olendo , i. e. Crescendo , from its continual growth and springing up : So the younger Scaliger on Varro : But his Father Julius extends it not so generally to all Plants , as to all the Esculents , according to the Text : We call those Olera ( says * * 〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉 , Theophrast . Plant. l. vii . cap. 7. Theophrastus ) which are commonly eaten , in which sense it may be taken , to include both Boil'd and Raw : Last of all , ab Alendo , as having been the Original , and genuine Food of all Mankind from the † † Gen. 1.29 . Creation .

A great deal more of this Learned Stuff were to be pick'd up from the Cumini Sectores , and impertinently Curious ; whilst as it concerns the business in hand , we are by Sallet to understand a particular Composition of certain Crude and fresh Herbs , such as usually are , or may safely be eaten with some Acetous Juice , Oyl , Salt , &c. to give them a grateful Gust and Vehicle ; exclusive of the * * Plutarch Sympos . 〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉 , eaten without their due Correctives , which the Learned † † Salmas . in Solin . against Hieron . Mercurialis . Salmasius , and , indeed generally , the ‖ ‖ Galen . 2 R. Aliment . cap. 1. Et Simp. Medic. Averroes , lib. v. Colloc . old Physicians affirm ( and that truly ) all Crude and raw 〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉 require to render them wholsome ; so as probably they were from hence , as ¶ ¶ Plin. lib. xix . c. 4. Pliny thinks , call'd Acetaria : and not ( as Hermolaus and some others ) Acceptaria ab Accipiendo ; nor from Accedere , though so * * Convictus facilis , sine arte mensa Mart. Ep. 74. ready at hand , and easily dress'd ; requiring neither Fire , Cost , or Attendance , to boil , roast , and prepare them as did Flesh , and other Provisions ; from which , and other Prerogatives , they were always in use , &c. And hence indeed the more frugal Italians and French , to this Day , Accept and gather Ogni Verdura , any thing almost that 's Green and Tender , to the very Tops of Nettles ; so as every Hedge affords a Sallet ( not unagreeable ) season'd with its proper Oxybaphon of Vinegar , Salt , Oyl , &c. which doubtless gives it both the Relish and Name of Salad , Ensalada † † 〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉 , which Suidas calls 〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉 , Olera quae cruda sumuntur ex Aceto . Harduin in loc : , as with us of Sallet ; from the Sapidity , which renders not Plants and Herbs alone , but Men themselves , and their Conversations , pleasant and agreeable : But of this enough , and perhaps too much ; least whilst I write of Salt and Sallet , I appear my self Insipid : I pass therefore to the Ingredients , which we will call

Furniture and Materials .

THE Materials of Sallets , which together with the grosser Olera , consist of Roots , Stalks , Leaves , Buds , Flowers , &c. Fruits ( belonging to another Class ) would require a much ampler Volume , than would suit our Kalendar , ( to which this pretends to be an Appendix only ) should we extend the following Catalogue further than to a brief enumeration only of such Herbaceous Plants , Oluscula and smaller Esculents , as are chiefly us'd in Cold Sallets , of whose Culture we have treated there ; and as we gather them from the Mother and Genial Bed , with a touch only of their Qualities , for Reasons hereafter given .

1. Alexanders , Hipposelinum ; S. Smyrnium vulgare ( much of the nature of Persly ) is moderately hot , and of a cleansing Faculty , Deobstructing , nourishing , and comforting the Stomach . The gentle fresh Sprouts , Buds , and Tops are to be chosen , and the Stalks eaten in the Spring ; and when Blanch'd , in Winter likewise , with Oyl , Peper , Salt , &c. by themselves , or in Composition : They make also an excellent Vernal Pottage .

2. Artichaux , Cinara , ( Carduus Sativus ) hot and dry . The Heads being slit in quarters first eaten raw , with Oyl , a little Vinegar , Salt , and Pepper , gratefully recommend a Glass of Wine ; Dr. Muffet says , at the end of Meals .

They are likewise , whilst tender and small , fried in fresh Butter crisp with Persley . But then become a most delicate and excellent Restorative , when full grown , they are boil'd the common way . The Bottoms are also bak'd in Pies , with Marrow , Dates , and other rich Ingredients : In Italy they sometimes broil them , and as the Scaly Leaves open , baste them with fresh and sweet Oyl ; but with Care extraordinary , for if a drop fall upon the Coals , all is marr'd ; that hazard escap'd , they eat them with the Juice of Orange and Sugar .

The Stalk is Blanch'd in Autumn , and the Pith eaten raw or boil'd . The way of preserving them fresh all Winter , is by separating the Bottoms from the Leaves , and after Parboiling , allowing to every Bottom , a small earthen glaz'd Pot ; burying it all over in fresh melted Butter , as they do Wild-Fowl , &c. Or if more than one , in a larger Pot , in the same Bed and Covering , Layer upon Layer .

They are also preserv'd by stringing them on Pack-thread , a clean Paper being put between every Bottom , to hinder them from touching one another , and so hung up in a dry place They are likewise Pickl'd .

'T is not very long since this noble Thistle came first into Italy , Improv'd to this Magnitude by Culture ; and so rare in England , that they were commonly sold for Crowns a piece : But what Carthage yearly spent in them ( as Pliny computes the Sum ) amounted to Sestertia Sena Millia , 30000 l. Sterling .

Note , That the Spanish Cardon , a wild and smaller Artichoak , with sharp-pointed Leaves , and lesser Head ; the Stalks being Blanch'd and tender , are serv'd-up a la Poiverade ( that is with Oyl , Pepper , &c. ) as the French term is .

3. Basil , Ocimum ( as Baulm ) imparts a grateful Flavour , if not too strong , somewhat offensive to the Eyes ; and therefore the tender Tops to be very sparingly us'd in our Sallet .

4. Baulm , Melissa , Baum , hot and dry , Cordial and exhilarating , sovereign for the Brain , strengthning the Memory , and powerfully chasing away Melancholy . The tender Leaves are us'd in Composition with other Herbs ; and the Sprigs fresh gather'd , put into Wine or other Drinks , during the heat of Summer , give it a marvellous quickness : This noble Plant yields an incomparable Wine , made as is that of Cowslip-Flowers .

5. Be et , Beta ; of which there is both Red , Black , and White : The Costa , or Rib of the White Beet ( by the French call'd the Chard ) being boil'd , melts , and eats like Marrow . And the Roots ( especially of the Red ) cut into thin slices , boil'd , when cold , is of it self a grateful Winter Sallet ; or being mingl'd with other Oluscula , Oyl , Vinegar , Salt , &c. 'T is of quality Cold and Moist , and naturally somewhat Laxative : But however by the Epigrammatist stil'd Foolish and Insipid , as Innocentior quam Olus ( for so the Learned * * Plin. H. Nat. lib. xix . cap. 8. Harduin reads the place ) 't is by Diphilus of old , and others since , preferr'd before Cabbage as of better Nourishment : Martial ( not unlearn'd in the Art of Sallet ) commends it with Wine and Pepper : He names it indeed — Fabrorum prandia , for its being so vulgar . But eaten with Oyl and Vinegar , as usually , it is no despicable Sallet . There is a Beet growing near the Sea , which is the most delicate of all . The Roots of the Red Beet , pared into thin Slices and Circles , are by the French and Italians contriv'd into curious Figures to adorn their Sallets .

6. Blite , Blitum ; English Mercury , or ( as our Country House-wives call it ) All-good , the gentle Turiones , and Tops may be eaten as Sparagus , or sodden in Pottage : There is both a white and red , much us'd in Spain and Italy ; but besides its humidity and detersive Nature , 't is Insipid enough .

7. Borrage , Borrago ( Gaudia semper ago ) hot and kindly moist , purifying the Blood , is an exhilarating Cordial , of a pleasant Flavour : The tender Leaves , and Flowers especially , may be eaten in Composition ; but above all , the Sprigs in Wine , like those of Baum , are of known Vertue to revive the Hypochondriac , and chear the hard Student . See Bugloss .

8. Brooklime , Anagallis aquatica ; moderately hot and moist , prevalent in the Scorbute , and Stone .

9. Bugloss , Buglossum ; in nature much like Borrage , yet something more astringent . The Flowers of both , with the intire Plant , greatly restorative , being Conserv'd : And for the rest , so much commended by Averroes ; that for its effects , cherishing the Spirits , justly call'd Euphrosynum : Nay , some will have it the Nepenthes of Homer : But indeed , what we now call Bugloss , was not that of the Ancients , but rather Borrage , for the like Virtue named Corrago .

Burnet , See Pimpinella .

10. Buds , Gemmae , Turiones ; the first Rudiments and Tops of most Sallet-Plants , preferrable to all other less tender Parts ; such as Ashen-Keys , Broom-buds , hot and dry , retaining the vertue of Capers , esteem'd to be very opening , and prevalent against the Spleen and Scurvy ; and being Pickl'd , are sprinkl'd among the Sallets , or eaten by themselves .

11. Cabbage , Brassica ( and it s several kinds ) Pompey's beloved Dish , so highly celebrated by old * * De R. R. cap. clvii . Cato , Pythagoras , and Chrysippus the Physician ( as the only Panacea ) is not so generally magnify'd by the rest of Doctors , as affording but a crass and melancholy Juice ; yet Loosening if but moderately boil'd , if over-much , Astringent , according to C. Celsus ; and therefore seldom eaten raw , excepting by the Dutch. The Cymae , or Sprouts rather of the Cole are very delicate , so boil'd as to retain their Verdure and green Colour . In raising this Plant great care is to be had of the Seed . The best comes from Denmark and Russia , especially the Cauly-flower , ( anciently unknown ) or from Aleppo . Of the French , the Pancaliere a la large Costé , the white , large and ponderous are to be chosen ; and so the Cauly-flower : After boiling some steep them in Milk , and seethe them again in Beef-Broth : Of old they added a little Nitre . The Broccoli from Naples , perhaps the Halm●rida of Pliny ( or Athenaeus rather ) Capitata marina & florida , our Sea-keele ( the ancient Crambe ) and growing on our Coast , are very delicate , as are the Savoys , commended for being not so rank , but agreeable to most Palates , and of better Nourishment : In general , Cabbages are thought to allay Fumes , and prevent Intoxication : But some will have them noxious to the Sight ; others impute it to the Cauly-flower rather : But whilst the Learned are not agreed about it , Theophrastus affirms the contrary , and Pliny commends the Juice raw , with a little Honey , for the moist and weeping Eye , not the dry or dull . But after all , Cabbage ( 't is confess'd ) is greatly accus'd for lying undigested in the Stomach , and provoking Eructations ; which makes me wonder at the Veneration we read the Ancients had for them , calling them Divine , and Swearing , per Brassicam . 'T is scarce an hundred Years since we first had Cabbages out of Holland ▪ Sir Anth. Ashley of Wiburg St. Giles in Dorsetshire , being ( as I am told ) the first who planted them in England .

12. Cardon , See Artichaux .

13. Carrots , Dauci , or Pastinaca Sativa ; temperately warm and dry , Spicy ; the best are yellow , very nourishing ; let them be rais'd in Ground naturally rich , but not too heavy .

14. Chervile , Chaerophyllum , Myrrhis ; The sweet aromatick Spanish Chervile , moderately hot and dry : The tender Cimae , and Tops , with other Herbs , are never to be wanting in our Sallets , ( as long as they may be had ) being exceedingly wholsome and chearing the Spirits : The Roots are also boil'd and eaten Cold ; much commended for Aged Persons : This ( as likewise Spinach ) is us'd in Tarts , and serves alone for divers Sauces .

Vide Onions , Schoenopraesson . Cibbols . Cives .

15. Clary , Horminum , when tender not to be rejected , and in Omlets , made up with Cream , fried in sweet Butter , and eaten with Sugar , Juice of Orange , or Limon .

16. Clavers , Aparine ; the tender Winders , with young Nettle-Tops , are us'd in Lenten Pottages .

17. Corn-sallet , Valerianella ; loos'ning and refreshing : The Tops and Leaves are a Sallet of themselves , seasonably eaten with other Salleting , the whole Winter long , and early Spring : The French call them Salad de Preter , for their being generally eaten in Lent .

18. Cowslips , Paralysis : See Flowers .

19. Cresses , Nasturtium , Garden Cresses ; to be monthly sown : But above all the Indian , moderately hot , and aromatick , quicken the torpent Spirits , and purge the Brain , and are of singular effect against the Scorbute . Both the tender Leaves , Calices , Cappuchin Capers , and Flowers , are laudably mixed with the colder Plants . The Buds being Candy'd , are likewise us'd in Strewings all Winter . There is the Nastur . Hybernicum commended also , and the vulgar Water-Cress , proper in the Spring , all of the same Nature , tho' of different Degrees , and best for raw and cold Stomachs , but nourish little .

20. Cucumber , Cucumis ; tho' very cold and moist , the most approved Sallet alone , or in Composition , of all the Vinaigrets , to sharpen the Appetite , and cool the Liver , * * 〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉 . Athen. &c. if rightly prepar'd ; that is , by rectifying the vulgar Mistake of altogether extracting the Juice , in which it should rather be soak'd : Nor ought it to be over Oyl'd , too much abating of its grateful Acidity , and palling the Taste , from a contrariety of Particles : Let them therefore be pared , and cut in thin Slices , with a Clove or two of Onion to correct the Crudity , macerated in the Juice , often turn'd and moderately drain'd . Others prepare them , by shaking the Slices between two Dishes , and dress them with very little Oyl , well beaten , and mingled with the Juice of Limon , Orange , or Vinegar , Salt and Pepper . Some again , ( and indeed the most approv'd ) eat them as soon as they are cut , retaining their Liquor , which being exhausted ( by the former Method ) have nothing remaining in them to help the Concoction . Of old they * * Cucumis elixus delicatior , innocentior . Athenaeus . boil'd the Cucumber , and paring off the Rind , eat them with Oyl , Vinegar , and Honey ; Sugar not being so well known . Lastly , the Pulp in Broth is greatly refreshing , and may be mingl'd in most Sallets , without the least damage , contrary to the common Opinion ; it not being long , since Cucumber , however dress'd , was thought fit to be thrown away , being accounted little better than Poyson . Tavernier tells us , that in the Levant , if a Child cry for something to Eat , they give it a raw Cucumber instead of Bread . The young ones may be boil'd in White-Wine . The smaller sort ( known by the name of Gerckems ) muriated with the Seeds of Dill , and the Mango Pickle are for the Winter .

21. Daisy , Buphthalmum , Ox-Eye , or Bellis-major : The young Roots are frequently eaten by the Spaniards and Italians all the Spring till June .

22. Dandelion , Dens Leonis , Condrilla : Macerated in several Waters , to extract the bitterness ; tho' somewhat opening , is very wholsome , and little inferior to Succory , Endive , &c. The French Country-People eat the Roots ; and 't was with this homely Sallet , the Good-Wife Hecate entertain'd Theseus . See Sowthistle .

23. Dock , Oxylapathum , or sharp-pointed Dock : Emollient , and tho' otherwise not for our Sallet , the Roots brewed in Ale or Beer , are excellent for the Scorbute .

Earth-Nuts , Bulbo-Castanum ; ( found in divers places of Surry , near Kingston , and other parts ) the Rind par'd off , are eaten crude by Rustics , with a little Pepper ; but are best boil'd like other Roots , or in Pottage rather , and are sweet and nourishing .

24. Elder , Sambucus ; The Flowers infus'd in Vinegar , grateful both to the Stomach and Taste ; attenuate thick and viscid Humours ; and tho' the Leaves are somewhat rank of Smell , and so not commendable in Sallet ; they are otherwise ( as indeed is the intire Shrub ) of the most sovereign Vertue ; and the spring Buds and tender Leaves , excellently wholsome in Pottage at that Season of the Year . See Flowers .

25. Endive , Endivium , Intubum Sativum ; the largest , whitest , and tenderest Leaves best boil'd , and less crude . It is naturally Cold , profitable for hot Stomachs ; Incisive and opening Obstructions of the Liver : The curled is more delicate , being eaten alone , or in Composition , with the usual Intinctus : It is also excellent being boil'd ; the middle part of the Blanch'd-Stalk separated , eats firm , and the ampler Leaves by many perferr'd before Lettuce . See Succory .

Eschalot . See Onions .

26. Fennel , Foeniculum : The sweetest of Bolognia : Aromatick , hot , and dry ; expels Wind , sharpens the Sight , and recreates the Brain ; especially the tender Vmbella and Seed-Pods . The Stalks are to be peel'd when young , and then dress'd like Sellery . The tender Tufts and Leaves emerging , being minc'd , are eaten alone with Vinegar , or Oyl , and Pepper , and to correct the colder Materials , enter properly into Composition . The Italians eat the blanch'd Stalk ( which they call Cartucci ) all Winter long . There is a very small Green-Worm , which sometimes lodges in the Stemm of this Plant , which is to be taken out , as the Red one in that of Sellery .

27. Flowers , Flores ; chiefly of the Aromatick Esculents and Plants are preferrable , as generally endow'd with the Vertues of their Simples , in a more intense degree ; and may therefore be eaten alone in their proper Vehicles , or Composition with other Salleting , sprinkl'd among them ; But give a more palatable Relish , being Infus'd in Vinegar ; Especially those of the Clove-Gillyflower , Elder , Orange , Cowslip , Rosemary , Arch-Angel , Sage , Nasturtium Indicum , &c. Some of them are Pickl'd , and divers of them make also very pleasant and wholsome Theas , as do likewise the Wild Time , Bugloss , Mint , &c.

28. Garlick , Allium ; dry towards Excess ; and tho' both by Spaniards and Italians , and the more Southern People , familiarly eaten , with almost every thing , and esteem'd of such singular Vertue to help Concoction , and thought a Charm against all Infection and Poyson ( by which it has obtain'd the Name of the Country-man's Theriacle ) we yet think it more proper for our Northern Rustics , especially living in Vliginous and moist places , or such as use the Sea : Whilst we absolutely forbid it entrance into our Salleting , by reason of its intolerable Rankness , and which made it so detested of old ; that the eating of it was ( as we read ) part of the Punishment for such as had committed the horrid'st Crimes . To be sure , 't is not for Ladies Palats , nor those who court them , farther than to permit a light touch on the Dish , with a Clove thereof , much better supply'd by the gentler Roccombo .

Note , That in Spain they sometimes eat it boil'd , which taming its fierceness , turns it into Nourishment , or rather Medicine .

Ginny-Pepper , Capsicum . See Pepper .

29. Goats-beard , Trago-pogon : The Root is excellent even in Sallet , and very Nutritive , exceeding profitable for the Breast , and may be stew'd and dress'd as Scorzonera .

30. Hops , Lupulus : Hot and moist , rather Medicinal , than fit for Sallet ; the Buds and young Tendrels excepted , which may be eaten raw ; but more conveniently being boil'd , and cold like Asparagus : They are Diuretic ; depurate the Blood , and open Obstructions .

31. Hyssop , Hyssopus ; Thymus Capitatus Creticus ; Majoran , Mary-gold , &c. as all hot , spicy Aromatics , ( commonly growing in Kitchin-Gardens ) are of Faculty to Comfort , and strengthen ; prevalent against Melancholy and Phlegm : Plants , like these , going under the Names of Pot-Herbs , are much more proper for Broths and Decoctions , than the tender Sallet : Yet the Tops and Flowers reduc'd to Powder , are by some reserv'd for Strewings , upon the colder Ingredients ; communicating no ungrateful Fragrancy .

32. Jack-by-the-Hedge , Alliaria , or Sauce-alone ; has many Medicinal Properties , and is eaten as other Sallets , especially by Country People , growing wild under their Banks and Hedges .

33. Leeks , and Cibbols , Porrum ; hot , and of Vertue Prolifick ; since Latona , the Mother of Apollo long'd after them : The Welch , who eat them much , are observ'd to be very fruitful : They are also friendly to the Lungs and Stomach , being sod in Milk ; a few therefore of the slender and green Summities , a little shred , do not amiss in Composition . See Onion .

34. Lettuce , Lactuca : Tho' by Metaphor call'd * * Eubulus . Mortuorum Cibi , ( to say nothing of † † In Lactuca occultatum à Venere Adonin cecinit Cailimachus , quod Allegoricè interpretatus Athenaeus illuc referendum putat , quod in Venerem hebetiores fiant Lactucis vescentes assidué . Adonis and his sad Mistriss ) by reason of its Soporiferous quality , ever was , and still continues the principal Foundation of the universal Tribe of Sallets ; which is to Cool and Refresh , besides its other Properties : And therefore in such high esteem with the Ancients ; that divers of the Valerian Family , dignify'd and enobled their Name with that of Lactucinii .

It is indeed of Nature more cold and moist than any of the rest ; yet less astringent , and so harmless that it may safely be eaten raw in Fevers ; for it allays Heat , bridles Choler , extinguishes Thirst , excites Appetite , kindly Nourishes , and above all represses Vapours , conciliates Sleep , mitigates Pain ; besides the effect it has upon the Morals , Temperance and Chastity . Galen ( whose beloved Sallet it was ) from its pinguid , subdulcid and agreeable Nature , says it breeds the most laudable Blood . No marvel then that they were by the Ancients called Sana , by way of eminency , and so highly valu'd by the great * * Apud Sueton. Augustus , that attributing his Recovery of a dangerous Sickness to them , 't is reported , he erected a Statue , and built an Altar to this noble Plant. And that the most abstemious and excellent Emperor † † Vopiscus Tacit. For the rest both of the Kinds and Vertues of Lettuce , See Plin. H. Nat. I. xix . c. 8. and xx , c. 7. Fernel . &c. Tacitus ( spending almost nothing at his frugal Table in other Dainties ) was yet so great a Friend to Lettuce , that he was us'd to say of his Prodigality , Somnum se mercari illa sumptus effusione . How it was celebrated by Galen we have heard ; how he us'd it he tells himself ; namely , beginning with Lettuce in his younger Days , and concluding with it when he grew old , and that to his great advantage . In a word , we meet with nothing among all our crude Materials and Sallet store , so proper to mingle with any of the rest , nor so wholsome to be eaten alone , or in Composition , moderately , and with the usual Ox●laeum of Vinegar , Pepper , and Oyl , &c. which last does not so perfectly agree with the Alphange , to which the Juice of Orange , or Limon and Sugar is more desirable : Aristoxenus is reported to have irrigated his Lettuce-Beds with an Oinomelite , or mixture of Wine and Honey : And certainly 't is not for nothing that our Garden-Lovers , and Brothers of the Sallet , have been so exceedingly Industrious to cultivate this Noble Plant , and multiply its Species ; for to name a few in present use : We have the Alphange of Montpelier , crisp and delicate ; the Arabic ; Ambervelleres ; Belgrade , Cabbage , Capuchin , Cross-Lettuce , Curl'd ; the Genoa ( lasting all the Winter ) the Imperial , Lambs , or Agnine , and Lobbs or Lop-Lettuces . The French Minion a dwarf kind : The Oak-Leaf , Passion , Roman , Shell , and Silesian , hard and crimp ( esteemed of the best and rarest ) with divers more : And here let it be noted , that besides three or four sorts of this Plant , and some few of the rest , there was within our remembrance , rarely any other Salleting serv'd up to the best Tables ; with unblanch'd Endive , Succory , Purselan , ( and indeed little other variety ) Sugar and Vinegar being the constant Vehicles ( without Oyl ) but now Sugar is almost wholly banish'd from all , except the more effeminate Palates , as too much palling , and taking from the grateful Acid now in use , tho' otherwise not totally to be reproved : Lettuce boil'd and Condited is sometimes spoken of .

35. Limon , Limonia , citrea mala ; exceedingly refreshing , Cordial , &c. The Pulp being blended with the Juice , secluding the over-sweet or bitter . See Orange .

36. Mallow , Malva ; the curl'd , emollient , and friendly to the Ventricle , and so rather Medicinal ; yet may the Tops , well boil'd , be admitted , and the rest ( tho' out of use at present ) was taken by the Poets for all Sallets in general . Pythagoras held Malvae folium Sanctissimum ; and we find Epimenides in * * De Legib. Plato at his Mallows and Asphodel ; and indeed it was of old the first Dish at Table : The Romans had it also in deliciis , ¶ ¶ Hor: Epod. 11. Malvae salubres corpori , approved by * * De Simp. Medic. L. vii . Galen and † † Lib. ii . cap. 3. Dioscorides ; namely the Garden-Mallow , by others the Wild ; but I think both proper rather for the Pot , than Sallet . Nonius supposes the tall Rofea , Arborescent Holi-hocks , that bears the broad Flower , for the best , and very ‖ ‖ Exoneraturas Ventrem mihi Villica Malvas Attulit , & varias , quas habet hortus , Opes . Mart. Lib. x. And our sweet Poet : — Nulla est humanior herba , Nulla magis suavi commoditate bona est , Omnia tam placidè regerat , blandéque relaxat , Emollitque vias , nec sinit esse rudes . Cowl . Plan. L. 4. Laxative ; but by reason of their clamminess and Lentor , banished from our Sallet , tho' by some commended and eaten with Oyl and Vinegar , and some with Butter .

Mercury , Bonus Henricus , English Mercury , or Lapathum Vnctuosum . See Blitum .

37. Melon , Melo ; to have been reckon'd rather among Fruits ; and tho' an usual Ingredient in our Sallet ; yet for its transcendent delicacy and flavor , cooling and exhilarating Nature ( if sweet , dry , weighty , and well-fed ) not only superior to all the Gourd-kind , but Paragon with the noblest Productions of the Garden . Jos. Scaliger and Casaubon , think our Melon unknown to the Ancients , ( which others contradict ) as yet under the name of Cucumers : But he who reads how artificially they were Cultivated , rais'd under Glasses , and expos'd to the hot Sun , ( for Tiberius ) cannot well doubt of their being the same with ours .

There is also a Winter-Melon , large and with black Seeds , exceedingly Cooling , brought us from abroad , and the hotter Climates , where they drink Water after eating Melons ; but in the colder ( after all dispute ) Wine is judg'd the better : That it has indeed by some been accus'd as apt to corrupt in the Stomach ( as do all things else eaten in excess ) is not deny'd : But a perfect good Melon is certainly as harmless a Fruit as any whatsoever ; and may safely be mingl'd with Sallet , in Pulp or Slices , or more properly eaten by it self , with a little Salt and Pepper ; for a Melon which requires Sugar to commend it , wants of Perfection . Note , That this Fruit was very rarely cultivated in England , so as to bring it to Maturity , till Sir Geo. Gardner came out of Spain . I my self remembring , when an ordinary Melon would have been sold for five or six Shillings . The small unripe Fruit , when the others are past , may be Pickl'd with Mango , and are very delicate .

38. Mint , Mentha ; the Angustifolia Spicata , Spear-Mint ; dry and warm , very fragrant , a little press'd , is friendly to the weak Stomach , and powerful against all Nervous Crudities : The gentler Tops of the Orange-Mint , enter well into our Composition , or are grateful alone ( as are also the other sorts ) with the Juice of Orange , and a little Sugar .

39. Mushroms , Fungi ; By the * * Cic. ad Attic. Orator call'd Terrae , by Porphyry Deorum filii , without Seed ( as produc'd by the Midwifry of Autumnal Thunder-Storms , portending the Mischief they cause ) by the French , Champignons , with all the Species of the Boletus , &c. for being , as some hold , neither Root , Herb , Flower , nor Fruit , nor to be eaten crude ; should be therefore banish'd entry into our Sallet , were I to order the Composition ; however so highly contended for by many , as the very principal and top of all the rest ; whilst I think them tolerable only ( at least in this Climate ) if being fresh and skilfully chosen , they are accommodated with the nicest Care and Circumspection ; generally reported to have something malignant and noxious in them : Nor without cause ; from the many sad Examples , frequent Mischiefs , and funest Accidents they have produc'd , not only to particular Persons , but whole Families : Exalted indeed they were to the second , Course of the Caesarian Tables , with the noble Title 〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉 , a Dainty fit for the Gods alone ; to whom they sent the Emperor * * Sueton. in Claudi . Claudius , as they have many since , to the other World . But he that reads how Seneca ∴ ∴ Sen. Ep. lxiii . deplores his lost Friend , that brave Commander Annaeus Serenus , and several other gallant Persons with him , who all of them perish'd at the same Repast ; would be apt to ask with the † † Plin. N. H. l. xxli . c. 2● . Naturalist ( speaking of this suspicious Dainty ) Quae voluptas tanta ancipitis cibi ? and who indeed would hazard it ? So true is that of the Poet ; He that eats Mushroms , many times Nil amplius edit , eats no more perhaps all his Life after . What other deterring Epithets are given for our Caution , 〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉 , heavy and choaking . ( Athenaeus reporting of the Poet Euripides's , finding a Woman and her three Children strangl'd by eating of them ) one would think sufficient warning .

Among these comes in the Fungus Reticularis , to be found about London , as at Fulham and other places ; whilst at no small charge we send for them into France ; as we also do for Trufles , P●g-nuts , and other subterraneous Tubera , which in Italy they fry in Oyl , and eat with Pepper : They are commonly discovered by a Nasute Swine purposely brought up ; being of a Chess-nut Colour , and heady Smell , and not seldom found in England , particularly in a Park of my Lord Cotton's , at Rushton or Rusbery in Northampton-shire , and doubtless in other † † Transact . Philos. Num. 202. places too were they sought after . How these rank and provocative Excrescences are to be ‖ ‖ Apitius , lib. vii . cap. 13. treated ( of themselves insipid enough , and only famous for their kindly taking any Pickle or Conditure ) that they may do the less Mischief , we might here set down . But since there be so many ways of Dressing them , that I can incourage none to use them , for Reasons given ( besides that they do not at all concern our safer and innocent Sallet Furniture ) I forbear it ; and referr those who long after this beloved Ragout , and other Voluptuaria Venena ( as Seneca calls them ) to what our Learned Dr. Lyster * * Philos. Transact . Num. 89. Journey to Paris . says of the many Venomous Insects harbouring and corrupting in a new found-out Species of Mushroms had lately in deliciis . Those , in the mean time , which are esteemed best , and less pernicious , ( of which see the Appendix ) are such as rise in rich , airy , and dry † † Pratensibus optima fungis Natura est : aliis male creditur , Hor. Sat. l. 7. Sat. 4. Pasture-Grounds ; growing on the Staff or Pedicule of about an Inch thick and high ; moderately Swelling ( Target-like ) round and firm , being underneath of a pale saffronish hue , curiously radiated in parallel Lines and Edges , which becoming either Yellow , Orange , or Black , are to be rejected : But besides what the Harvest-Months produce , they are likewise rais'd * * Bacon Nat. Hist . 12. Cent. vii . 547 , 548 , &c. Artificially ; as at Naples in their Wine-Cellars , upon an heap of rank Earth , heaped upon a certain supposed Stone , but in truth , ( as the curious and noble * * Gassend . Vita Peirs . l. iv . Raderus Mart. l. Epig. xlvi . In ponticum , says , within four Days . Peiresky tells us , he found to be ) nothing but an heap of old Fungus's , reduc'd and compacted to a stony hardness , upon which they lay Earth , and sprinkle it with warm Water , in which Mushroms have been steeped . And in France , by making an hot Bed of Asses-Dung , and when the heat is in Temper , watering it ( as above ) well impregnated with the Parings and Offals of refuse Fungus's ; and such a Bed will last two or three Years , and sometimes our common Melon-Beds afford them , besides other Experiments .

40. Mustard , Sinapi ; exceeding hot and mordicant , not only in the Seed but Leaf also ; especially in Seedling young Plants , like those of Radishes ( newly peeping out of the Bed ) is of incomparable effect to quicken and revive the Spirits ; strengthening the Memory , expelling heaviness , preventing the Vertiginous Palsie , and is a laudable Cephalick . Besides it is an approv'd Antiscorbutick ; aids Concoction , cuts and dissipates Phlegmatick Humours . In short , 't is the most noble Embamma , and so necessary an Ingredient to all cold and raw Salleting , that it is very rarely , if at all , to be left out . In Italy in making Mustard , they mingle Limon and Orange-Peel , with the Seeds . How the best is made , see hereafter .

Nasturtium Indicum . See Cresses .

41. Nettles , Vrtica ; Hot , dry , Diuretic , Solvent ; purifies the Blood : The Buds , and very tender Cimae , a little bruised , are by some eaten raw , by others boil'd , especially in Spring-Pottage , with other Herbs .

42. Onion , Cepa , Porrum ; the best are such as are brought us out of Spain , whence they of St. Omers had them , and some that have weigh'd eight Pounds . Choose therefore the large , round , white , and thin Skin'd . Being eaten crude and alone with Oyl , Vinegar , and Pepper , we own them in Sallet , not so hot as Garlick , nor at all so rank : Boil'd , they give a kindly relish ; raise Appetite , corroborate the Stomach , cut Phlegm , and profit the Asthmatical : But eaten in excess , are said to offend the Head and Eyes , unless Edulcorated with a gentle maceration . In the mean time , as to their being noxious to the Sight , is imputable only to the Vapour rising from the raw Onion , when peeled , which some commend for its purging and quickning that Sense . How they are us'd in Pottage , boil'd in Milk , stew'd , &c. concerns the Kitchin . In our cold Sallet we supply them with the Porrum Sectile , Tops of Leeks , and Eschalots ( Ascalonia ) of gust more exalted , yet not to the degree of Garlick . Or ( by what of later use is much preferr'd ) with a Clove or two of Raccombo , of a yet milder and delicate nature , which by rubbing the Dish only , imparts its Vertue agreeably enough . In Italy they frequently make a Sallet of Scalions , Cives , and Chibbols only season'd with Oyl and Pepper ; and an honest laborious Country-man , with good Bread , Salt , and a little Parsley , will make a contented Meal with a roasted Onion . How this noble Bulb was deified in * * O Sanctas gentes , quibus haec nascuntur in hortis Numina . — Juv. Sat. 15. Egypt we are told , and that whilst they were building the Pyramids , there was spent in this Root † † Herodotus . Ninety Tun of Gold among the Workmen . So lushious and tempting it seems they were , that as whole Nations have subsisted on them alone ; so the Israelites were ready to return to Slavery and Brick-making for the love of them . Indeed Hecamedes we find presents them to Patroclus , in Homer , as a Regalo ; But certainly we are either mistaken in the Species ( which some will have to be Melons ) or use Poetick Licence , when we so highly magnify them .

43. Orach , Atriplex : Is cooling , allays the Pituit Humor : Being set over the Fire , neither this , nor Lettuce , needs any other Water than their own moisture to boil them in , without Expression : The tender Leaves are mingl'd with other cold Salleting ; but 't is better in Pottage . See Blitum .

44. Orange , Arantiae ( Malum aureum ) moderately dry , cooling , and incisive ; sharpens Appetite , exceedingly refreshes and resists Putrefaction : We speak of the Sub-acid ; the sweet and bitter Orange being of no use in our Sallet . The Limon is somewhat more acute , cooling and extinguishing Thirst ; of all the 〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉 the best succedaneum to Vinegar . The very Spoils and Rinds of Orange and Limon being shred and sprinkl'd among the other Herbs , correct the Acrimony . But they are the tender Seedlings from the Hot-Bed , which impart an Aromatic exceedingly grateful to the Stomach . Vide Limon .

45. Parsnep , Pastinaca , Carrot ; first boil'd , being cold , is of it self a Winter - Sallet , eaten with Oyl , Vinegar , &c. and having something of Spicy , is by some , thought more nourishing than the Turnep .

46. Pease , Pisum ; the Pod of the Sugar-Pease , when first beginning to appear , with the Husk and Tendrels , affording a pretty Acid , enter into the Composition , as do those of Hops and the Vine .

47. Peper , Piper ; hot and dry in a high degree ; of approv'd Vertue against all flatulency proceeding from cold and phlegmatic Constitutions , and generally all Crudities whatsoever ; and therefore for being of universal use to correct and temper the cooler Herbs , and such as abound in moisture ; It is a never to be omitted Ingredient of our Sallets ; provided it be not too minutely beaten ( as oft we find it ) to an almost impalpable Dust , which is very pernicious , and frequently adheres and sticks in the folds of the Stomach , where , instead of promoting Concoction , it often causes a Cardialgium , and fires the Blood : It should therefore be grosly contus'd only .

Indian Capsicum , superlatively hot and burning , is yet by the Africans eaten with Salt and Vinegar by it self , as an usual Condiment ; but wou'd be of dangerous consequence with us ; being so much more of an acrimonious and terribly biting quality , Which by Art and Mixture is notwithstanding render'd not only safe , but very agreeable in our Sallet .

Take the Pods , and dry them well in a Pan ; and when they are become sufficiently hard , cut them into small pieces , and stamp 'em in a Mortar to dust : To each Ounce of which add a Pound of Wheat-flour , fermented with a little Levain : Kneed and make them into Cakes or Loaves cut long-wise , in shape of Naples-Biscuit . These Re-bake a second time , till they are Stone-hard : Pound them again as before , and serce it through a fine Sieve , for a very proper Seasoning , instead of vulgar Peper . The Mordicancy thus allay'd , be sure to make the Mortar very clean , after having beaten Indian Capsicum , before you stamp any thing in it else . The green Husks , or first peeping Buds of the Walnut-Tree , dry'd to Powder , serve for Peper in some places , and so do Myrtle-berries .

48. Persley , Petroselinum , or Apium hortense ; being hot and dry , opens Obstructions , is very Diuretic , yet nourishing , edulcorated in shifted warm Water ( the Roots especially ) but of less Vertue than Alexanders ; nor so convenient in our crude Sallet , as when decocted on a Medicinal Account . Some few tops of the tender Leaves may yet be admitted ; tho' it was of old , we read , never brought to the Table at all , as sacred to Oblivium and the Defunct . In the mean time , there being nothing more proper for Stuffing , ( Farces ) and other Sauces , we consign it to the Olitories . Note , that Persley is not so hurtful to the Eyes as is reported . See Sellery .

49. Pimpernel , Pimpinella ; eaten by the French and Italians , is our common Burnet ; of so chearing and exhilarating a quality , and so generally commended , as ( giving it admittance into all Sallets ) 't is pass'd into a Proverb : L' Insalata non è buon , ne bella , Ove non è la Pimpinella . But a fresh sprig in Wine , recommends it to us as its most genuine Element .

50. Purslain , Portulaca ; especially the Golden whilst tender , next the Seed-leaves , with the young Stalks , being eminently moist and cooling , quickens Appetite , asswages Thirst , and is very profitable for hot and Bilious Tempers , as well as Sanguine , and generally entertain'd in all our Sallets , mingled with the hotter Herbs : 'T is likewise familiarly eaten alone with Oyl and Vinegar ; but with moderation , as having been sometimes found to corrupt in the Stomach , which being Pickl'd 't is not so apt to do . Some eat it cold , after it has been boil'd , which Dr. Muffet would have in Wine , for Nourishment .

The Shrub Halimus , is a sort of Sea-Purslain : The newly peeping Leaves ( tho' rarely us'd ) afford a no unpleasant Acidulae , even during Winter , if it prove not too severe .

Purslain is accus'd for being hurtful to the Teeth , if too much eaten .

51. Radish , Raphanus . Albeit rather Medicinal , than so commendably accompanying our Sallets ( wherein they often slice the larger Roots ) are much inferior to the young Seedling Leaves and Roots ; raised on the * * 〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉 , quia tertio à satu die appareat . Monthly Hot-Bed , almost the whole Year round , affording a very grateful mordacity , and sufficiently attempers the cooler Ingredients : The bigger Roots ( so much desir'd ) should be such as being transparent , eat short and quick , without stringiness , and not too biting . These are eaten alone with Salt only , as carrying their Peper in them ; and were indeed by Dioscorides and Pliny celebrated above all Roots whatsoever ; insomuch as in the Delphic Temple , there was Raphanus ex auro dicatus , a Radish of solid Gold ; and 't is said of Moschius , that he wrote a whole Volume in their praise . Notwithstanding all which , I am sure , the great † † De diaeta lib. ii . cap. 25. Hippocrates utterly condemns them , as Vitiosae , innatantes ac oegre concoctiles . And the Naturalist calls it Cibus Illiberalis , fitter for Rustics than Gentlemens Tables . And indeed ( besides that they decay the Teeth ) experience tells us , that as the Prince of Physicians writes , It is hard of Digestion , Inimicous to the Stomach , causing nauseous Eructations , and sometimes Vomiting , tho' otherwise Diuretic , and thought to repel the Vapours of Wine , when the Wits were at their genial Club. Dioscorides and † † De Aliment . Facult. lib. ii . Galen differ about their Eating ; One prescribes it before Meals , the latter for after . Some macerate the young Roots in warm Milk , to render them more Nourishing .

There is a Raphanus rusticanus , the Spanish black Horse-Radish , of a hotter quality , and not so friendly to the Head ; but a notable Antiscorbutic , which may be eaten all the Winter , and on that account an excellent Ingredient in the Composition of Mustard ; as are also the thin Shavings , mingled with our cold Herbs . And now before I have done with this Root , for an excellent and universal Condiment . Take Horse-Radish , whilst newly drawn out of the Earth , otherwise laid to steep in Water a competent time ; then grate it on a Grater which has no bottom , that so it may pass thro' , like a Mucilage , into a Dish of Earthen Ware : This temper'd with Vinegar , in which a little Sugar has been dissolv'd , you have a Sauce supplying Mustard to the Sallet , and serving likewise for any Dish besides .

52. Rampion , Rapunculus , or the Esculent Campanula : The tender Roots eaten in the Spring , like those of Radishes , but much more Nourishing .

53. Rocket , Eruca Spanish ; hot and dry , to be qualified with Lettuce , Purcelain , and the rest , &c. See Tarragon .

Roccombo . See Onions .

54. Rosemary , Rosmarinus ; Soverainly Cephalic , and for the Memory , Sight , and Nerves , incomparable : And tho' not us'd in the Leaf with our Sallet furniture , yet the Flowers , a little bitter , are always welcome in Vinegar ; but above all , a fresh Sprig or two in a Glass of Wine . See Flowers .

55. Sage , Salvia ; hot and dry . The tops of the Red , well pick'd and wash'd ( being often defil'd with Venomous Slime , and almost imperceptible Insects ) with the Flowers , retain all the noble Properties of the other hot Plants ; more especially for the Heád , Memory , Eyes , and all Paralytical Affections . In short , 't is a Plant endu'd with so many and wonderful Properties , as that the assiduous use of it is said to render Men Immortal : We cannot therefore but allow the tender Summities of the young Leaves ; but principally the Flowers in our cold Sallet ; yet so as not to domineer .

Salsifax , Scorzonera . See Vipergrass .

56. Sampier , Crithmum : That growing on the Sea-Cliffs ( as about Dover , &c. ) not only Pickl'd , but crude and cold , when young and tender ( and such as we may Cultivate , and have in our Kitchin-Gardens , almost the Year round ) is in my Opinion , for its Aromatic , and other excellent Vertues and Effects . against the Spleen , Cleansing the Passages , sharpning Appetite , &c. so far preferrable to most of our hotter Herbs , and Sallet-Ingredients , that I have long wonder'd , it has not been long since propagated in the Potagere , as it is in France ; from whence I have often receiv'd the Seeds , which have prosper'd better , and more kindly with me , than what comes from our own Coasts : It does not indeed Pickle so well , as being of a more tender Stalk and Leaf : But in all other respects for composing Sallets , it has nothing like it .

57. Scalions , Ascalonia , Cepae ; The French call them Appetites , which it notably quickens and stirs up : Corrects Crudities , and promotes Concoction . The Italians steep them in Water , mince , and eat them cold with Oyl , Vinegar , Salt , &c.

58. Scurvy-grass , Cochlearia , of the Garden , but especially that of the Sea , is sharp , biting , and hot ; of Nature like Nasturtium , prevalent in the Scorbute . A few of the tender Leaves may be admitted in our Composition . See Nasturtium Indicum .

59. Sellery , Apium Italicum , ( and of the Petroseline Family ) was formerly a stranger with us ( nor very long since in Italy ) is an hot and more generous sort of Macedonian Persley , or Smallage . The tender Leaves of the Blancht Stalk do well in our Sallet , as likewise the slices of the whiten'd Stems , which being crimp and short , first peel'd and slit long wise , are eaten with Oyl , Vinegar , Salt , and Peper ; and for its high and grateful Taste , is ever plac'd in the middle of the Grand Sallet , at our Great Mens Tables , and Praetors Feasts , as the Grace of the whole Board . Caution is to be given of a small red Worm , often lurking in these Stalks , as does the green in Fennil .

Shallots . See Onion .

60. Skirrets , Sisarum ; hot and moist , corroborating , and good for the Stomach , exceedingly nourishing , wholsome and delicate ; of all the Root-kind , not subject to be Windy , and so valued by the Emperor Tiberius , that he accepted them for Tribute .

This excellent Root is seldom eaten raw ; but being boil'd , stew'd , roasted under the Embers , bak'd in Pies , whole , sliced , or in pulp , is very acceptable to all Palates . 'T is reported they were heretofore something bitter ; See what Culture and Education effects !

61. Sorrel , Acetosa : of which there are divers kinds . The French Acetocella , with the round Leaf , growing plentifully in the North of England ; Roman Oxalis ; the broad German , &c. but the best is of Green-Land : by nature Cold , Abstersive , Acid , sharpning Appetite , asswages Heat , cools the Liver , strengthens the Heart ; is an Antiscorbutic , resisting Putrefaction , and imparting so grateful a quickness to the rest , as supplies the want of Orange , Limon , and other Omphacia , and therefore never to be excluded . Vide Wood-Sorrel .

62. Sow-thistle , Sonchus ; of the Intybus-kind . Galen was us'd to eat it as Lettuce ; exceedingly welcome to the late Morocco Ambassador and his Retinue .

63. Sparagus , Asparagus ( ab Asperitate ) temperately hot , and moist ; Cordial , Diuretic , easie of Digestion , and next to Flesh , nothing more nourishing , as Sim. Sethius , an excellent Physician holds . They are sometimes , but very seldom , eaten raw with Oyl , and Vinegar ; but with more delicacy ( the bitterness first exhausted ) being so speedily boil'd , as not to lose the verdure and agreeable tenderness ; which is done by letting the Water boil , before you put them in . I do not esteem the Dutch great and larger sort ( especially rais'd by the rankness of the Beds ) so sweet and agreeable , as those of a moderate size .

64. Spinach , Spinachia : of old not us'd in Sallets , and the oftner kept out the better ; I speak of the crude : But being boil'd to a Pult , and without other Water than its own moisture , is a most excellent Condiment with Butter , Vinegar , or Limon , for almost all sorts of boil'd Flesh , and may accompany a Sick Man's Diet. 'T is Laxative and Emollient , and therefore profitable for the Aged , and ( tho' by original a Spaniard ) may be had at almost any Season , and in all places .

Stone-Crop , Sedum Minus ▪ See Trick-Madame .

65. Succory , Cichorium , an Intube ; erratic and wild , with a narrow dark Leaf , different from the Sative , tho' probably by culture only ; and for being very bitter , a little edulcorated with Sugar and Vinegar , is by some eaten in the Summer , and more grateful to the Stomach than the Palate . See . Endive .

66. Tansy , Tanacetum ; hot and cleansing ; but in regard of its domineering relish , sparingly mixt with our cold Sallet , and much fitter ( tho' in very small quantity ) for the Pan , being qualified with the Juices of other fresh Herbs , Spinach , Green Corn , Violet , Primrose-Leaves , &c. at entrance of the Spring , and then fried brownish , is eaten hot with the Juice of Orange and Sugar , as one of the most agreeable of all the boil'd Herbaceous Dishes .

67. Tarragon , Draco Herba , of Spanish Extraction ; hot and spicy : The Tops and young Shoots , like those of Rochet , never to be secluded our Composition , especially where there is much Lettuce . 'T is highly cordial and friendly to the Head , Heart , Liver , correcting the weakness of the Ventricle , &c.

68. Thistle , Carduus Mariae ; our Lady 's milky or dappl'd Thistle , disarm'd of its Prickles , is worth esteem : The young Stalk about May , being peel'd and soak'd in Water , to extract the bitterness , boil'd or raw , is a very wholsome Sallet , eaten with Oyl , Salt , and Peper : some eat them sodden in proper Broath , or bak'd in Pies , like the Artichoak ; but the tender Stalk boil'd or fry'd , some preferr ; both Nourishing and Restorative .

●9 . Trick-Madame , Sedum mi●us , Stone-Crop ; is cooling and moist , grateful to the Stomach . The Cimata and Tops , when young and tender , dress'd as Purselane , is a frequent Ingredient in our cold Sallet .

70. Turnep , Rapum ; moderately hot and moist : Napus ; the long Navet is certainly the most delicate of them , and best Nourishing . Pliny speaks of no fewer than six sorts , and of several Colours ; some of which were suspected to be artificially tinged . But with us , the yellow is preferr'd ; by others the red Bohemian . But of whatever kind , being sown upon the Hot-bed , and no bigger than seedling Radish , they do excellently in Composition ; as do also the Stalks of the common Turnep , when first beginning to Bud.

And here should not be forgotten , that wholsome , as well as agreeable sort of Bread , we are * * Philos. Transact . Vol. xvii . Num. 205. p. 970. taught to make ; and of which we have eaten at the greatest Persons Tables , hardly to be distinguish'd from the best of Wheat .

Let the Turneps first be peel'd , and boil'd in Water till soft and tender ; then strongly pressing out the Juice , mix them together , and when dry ( beaten or pounded very fine ) with their weight of Wheat-Meal , season it as you do other Bread , and knead it up ; then letting the Dough remain a little to ferment , fashion the Paste into Loaves , and bake it like common Bread .

Some roast Turneps in a Paper under the Embers , and eat them with Sugar and Butter .

71. Vine , Vitis , the Capreols , Tendrels , and Claspers ( like those of the Hop , &c. ) whilst very young , have an agreeable Acid , which may be eaten alone , or with other Sallet .

72. Viper-grass , Tragopogon , Scorzonera , Salsifex , &c. tho' Medicinal , and excellent against the Palpitation of the Heart , Faintings , Obstruction of the Bowels , &c. are besides a very sweet and pleasant Sallet ; being laid to soak out the bitterness , then peel'd , may be eaten raw , or Condited ; but best of all stew'd with Marrow , Spice , Wine , &c. as Artichoak , Skirrets , &c. sliced or whole . They likewise may bake , fry , or boil them ; a more excellent Root there is hardly growing .

73. Wood-Sorrel , Trifolium acetosum , or Alleluja , of the nature of other Sorrels .

To all which might we add sundry more , formerly had in deliciis , since grown obsolete or quite neglected with us : As among the noblest Bulbs , that of the Tulip ; a Root of which has been valued not to eat , but for the Flower ( and yet eaten by mistake ) at more than an hundred Pounds . The young fresh Bulbs are sweet and high of taste .

The Asphodil or Daffodil ; a Sallet so rare in Hesiod's Days , that Lobel thinks it the Parsnep , tho' not at all like it ; however it was ( with the Mallow ) taken anciently for any Edule-Root .

The Ornithogalons roasted , as they do Chestnuts , are eaten by the Italians , the wild yellow especially , with Oyl , Vinegar , and Peper . And so the small tuberous Roots of Gramen Amygdalosum , which they also roast , and make an Emulsion of , to use in Broaths as a great Restorative . The Oxylapathum , not us'd of old ; in the time of Galen was eaten frequently . As also Dracontium , with the Mordicant Arum Theophrasti , which Dodonaeus teaches how to Dress . Nay , divers of the Satyrions , which some condited with Sugar , others boil'd in Milk for a great Nourisher , now discarded . But what think we of the Cicuta , which there are who reckon among Sallet Herbs ? But whatever it is in any other Country , 't is certainly Mortiferous in ours . To these add the Viola Matronalis , Radix Lunaria , &c. nay , the Green Popy , by most accounted among the deadly Poysons : How cautious then ought our Sallet-Gatherers to be , in reading ancient Authors ; lest they happen to be impos'd on , where they treat of Plants , that are familiarly eaten in other Countries , and among other Nations and People of more robust and strong Constitutions ? besides the hazard of being mistaken in the Names of divers Simples , not as yet fully agreed upon among the Learned in Botany .

There are besides several remaining , which tho' Abdicated here with us , find Entertainment still in Foreign Countries : As the large Heliotrope and Sun-flower ( e're it comes to expand , and shew its golden Face ) which being dress'd as the Artichoak , is eaten for a dainty . This I add as a new Discovery . I once made Macaroons with the ripe blanch'd Seeds , but the Turpentine did so domineer over all , that it did not answer expectation . The Radix Personata mounting with their young Heads . Lysimachia siliquosa glabra minor , when fresh and tender , begins to come into the Sallet-Tribe . The pale whiter Popy , is eaten by the Genouese . By the Spaniards , the tops of Wormwood with Oyl alone , and without so much as Bread ; profitable indeed to the Stomach , but offensive to the Head : As is also Coriander and Rue , which Galen was accustom'd to eat raw , and by it self , with Oyl and Salt , as exceedingly grateful , as well as wholsome , and of great vertue against Infection . Pliny , I remember , reports it to be of such effect for the Preservation of Sight ; that the Painters of his Time , us'd to devour a great quantity of it . And it is still by the Italians frequently mingled among their Sallets . The Lapatha Personata ( common Burdock ) comes now and then to the best Tables , about April , and when young , before the Burrs and Clots appear , being strip'd , and the bitterness soaked out , treated as the Chardoon , is eaten in Poiverade ; Some also boil them . More might here be reckon'd up , but these may suffice ; since as we find some are left off , and gone out , so others be introduc'd and come in their room , and that in much greater Plenty and Variety , than was ever known by our Ancestors . The Cucumber it self , now so universally eaten , being accounted little better than Poyson , even within our Memory , as already noted .

To conclude , and after all that has been said of Plants and Salleting , formerly in great esteem , ( but since obsolete and quite rejected ) ; What if the exalted Juice of the ancient Silphium should come in , and challenge the Precedency ? It is a * * Plin. H. Nat. Lib. xix . cap. 3. & xx . c. 22. See Jo. Tzetzes Chil. vi . 48. & xvii . 119. Plant formerly so highly priz'd , and rare for the richness of its Taste and other Vertues ; that as it was dedicated to Apollo , and hung up in his Temple at Delphi ; So we read of one single Root brought to the Emperor Nero for an extraordinary Present ; and the Drug so esteem'd , that the Romans had long before amass'd a quantity of it , and kept it in the Treasury , till Julius Caesar rob'd it , and took this away , as a thing of mighty value : In a word , it was of that Account ; that as a sacred Plant , those of the Cyrenaic Africa , honour'd the very Figure of it , by stamping it on the Reverse of their † † Spanheim , De usu & Praest. Numis● Dissert. 4to . It was sometimes also the Reverse of Jupiter Hammon . Coin ; and when they would commend a thing for its worth to the Skies , 〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉 , grew into a Proverb : Battus having been the Founder of the City Cyrene , near which it only grew . 'T is indeed contested among the Learned Botanosophists , whether this Plant was not the same with Laserpitium , and the Laser it yields , the odoriferous † † — 〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉 . Aristoph . in Pluto . Act. iv . Sc. 3. Benzoin ? But doubtless had we the true and genuine Silphium ( for it appears to have been often sophisticated , and a spurious sort brought into Italy ) it would soon recover its pristine Reputation , and that it was not celebrated so for nothing extraordinary ; since besides its Medicinal Vertue ; it was a wonderful Corroborater of the Stomach , a Restorer of lost Appetite , and Masculine Vigour , &c. and that they made use of it almost in every thing they eat .

But should we now really tell the World , that this precious Juice is , by many , thought to be no other than the † † Of which some would have it a courser sort , inamoeni odoris , as the same Comedian names it in his Equites , p. 239. and 240. Edit. Basil . See likewise this discuss'd , together with its Properties , most copiously , in Jo. Budaeus a Stapul . Comment. in Theophrast . lib. vi . cap. 1. and Bauhin . Hist. Plant. lib. xxvii . cap. 53. Foetid Assa ; our nicer Sallet-Eaters ( who yet bestow as odious an Epithet on the vulgar Garlick ) would cry out upon it as intolerable , and perhaps hardly believe it : But as Aristophanes has brought it in , and sufficiently describ'd it ; so the Scholiast upon the place , puts it out of Controversy : And that they made use both of the Leaves , Stalk , ( and Extract especially ) as we now do Garlick , and other Hautgouts as nauseous altogether . In the mean time , Garcius , Bontius , and others , assure us , that the Indians at this day universally sauce their Viands with it ; and the Bramin's ( who eat no Flesh at all ) in rich their Sallets , by constantly rubbing the Dishes with it . Nor are some of our own skilful Cooks Ignorant , how to condite and use it , with the Applause of those , who , ignorant of the Secret , have admir'd the richness of the Gust it has imparted , when it has been substituted instead of all our Cipollati , and other seasonings of that Nature .

And thus have we done with the various Species of all such Esculents as may properly enter the Composition of our Acetaria , and cold Sallet . And if I have briefly touch'd upon their Natures , Degrees , and primary Qualities , which Intend or Remit , as to the Scale of Heat , Cold , Driness , Moisture , &c. ( which is to be understood according to the different Texture of their component Particles ) it has not been without what I thought necessary for the Instruction of the Gatherer , and Sallet-Dresser ; how he ought to choose , sort , and mingle his Materials and Ingredients together .

What Care and Circumspection should attend the choice and collection of Sallet Herbs , has been partly shew'd . I can therefore , by no means , approve of that extravagant Fancy of some , who tell us , that a Fool is as fit to be the Gatherer of a Sallet as a Wiser Man . Because , say they , one can hardly choose amiss , provided the Plants be green , young , and tender , where-ever they meet with them : But sad experience shews , how many fatal Mistakes have been committed by those who took the deadly Cicutae , Hemlocks , Aconits , &c. for Garden Persley , and Parsneps ; the Myrrhis Sylvestris , or Cow-Weed , for Choerophilum , ( Chervil ) Thapsia for Fennel ; the wild Chondrilla for Succory ; Dogs-Mercury instead of Spinach : Papaver Corniculatum Luteum , and horn'd Poppy for Eringo ; Oenanthe aquatica for the Palustral Apium , and a world more , whose dire effects have been many times sudden Death , and the cause of Mortal Accidents to those who have eaten of them unwittingly : But supposing some of those wild and unknown Plants should not prove so deleterious and * * Vide Cardanum de usu Cibi . unwholsome ; yet may others of them annoy the Head , Brain , and Genus Nervosum , weaken the Eyes , offend the Stomach , affect the Liver , torment the Bowels , and discover their malignity in dangerous and dreadful Symptoms . And therefore such Plants as are rather Medicinal than Nourishing and Refreshing , are studiously to be rejected . So highly necessary it is , that what we sometimes find in old Books concerning Edules of other Countries and Climates ( frequently call'd by the Names of such as are wholsome in ours , and among us ) mislead not the unskilful Gatherer ; to prevent which we read of divers Popes and Emperors , that had sometimes Learned Physicians for their Master-Cooks . I cannot therefore but exceedingly approve of that charitable Advice of Mr. Ray * * Vol. xx . ( Transact . Num. 238. ) who thinks it the Interest of Mankind , that all Persons should be caution'd of advent'ring upon unknown Herbs and Plants to their Prejudice : Of such , I say , with our excellent * * Cowley : 〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉 . Hesiod . Poet ( a little chang'd ) Happy from such conceal'd , if still do lie , Of Roots and Herbs the unwholsome Luxury .

The Illustrious and Learned Columna has , by observing what † † Concerning this of Insects , See Mr. Ray's Hist. Plant. li. 1. cap. 24. Insects did usually feed on , make Conjectures of the Nature of the Plants . But I should not so readily adventure upon it on that account , as to its wholsomness : For tho' indeed one may safely eat of a Peach or Abricot , after a Snail has been Taster , I question whether it might be so of all other Fruits and Herbs attack'd by other Insects : Nor would one conclude , the Hyoscyamus harmless , because the Cimex feeds upon it , as the Learned Dr. Lyster has discover'd . Notice should therefore be taken what Eggs of Insects are found adhering to the Leaves of Sallet-Herbs , and frequently cleave so firmly to them , as not easily to be wash'd off , and so not being taken notice of , passing for accidental and harmless Spots only , may yet produce very ill effects .

Grillus , who according to the Doctrine of Transmigration ( as Plutarch tells us ) had , in his turn , been a Beast ; discourses how much better he fed , and liv'd , than when he was turn'd to Man again , as knowing then , what Plants were best and most proper for him : Whilst Men , Sarcophagists ( Flesh-Eaters ) in all this time were yet to seek . And 't is indeed very evident , that Cattel , and other 〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉 , and herbaceous Animals which feed on Plants , are directed by their Smell , and accordingly make election of their Food : But Men ( besides the Smell and Taste ) have , or should have , Reason , Experience , and the Aids of Natural Philosophy to be their Guides in this Matter . We have heard of Plants , that ( like the Basilisk ) kill and infect by * * The poyson'd Weeds : I have seen a Man , who was so poyson'd with it , that the Skin peel'd off his Face , and yet he never touch'd it , only looked on it as he pass'd by . Mr. Stafford , Philos. Transact . Vol. III. Num. xl . p. 794. looking on them only ; and some by the touch . The truth is , there 's need of all the Senses to determine Analogically concerning the Vertues and Properties , even of the Leaves alone of many Edule-Plants : The most eminent Principles of near the whole Tribe of Sallet Vegetables , inclining rather to Acid and Sowre than to any other quality , especially , Salt , Sweet , or Luscious . There is therefore Skill and Judgment requir'd , how to suit and mingle our Sallet-Ingredients , so as may best agree with the Constitution of the ( vulgarly reputed ) Humors of those who either stand in need of , or affect these Refreshments , and by so adjusting them , that as nothing should be suffer'd to domineer , so should none of them lose their genuine Gust , Savour , or Vertue . To this end ,

The Cooler , and moderately refreshing , should be chosen to extinguish Thirst , attemper the Blood , repress Vapours , &c.

The Hot , Dry , Aromatic , Cordial and friendly to the Brain , may be qualify'd by the Cold and Moist : The Bitter and Stomachical , with the Sub-acid and gentler Herbs : The Mordicant and pungent , and such as repress or discuss Flatulency ( revive the Spirits , and aid Concoction ; ) with such as abate , and take off the keenness , mollify and reconcile the more harsh and churlish : The mild and insipid , animated with piquant and brisk : The Astringent and Binders , with such as are Laxative and Deobstruct : The over-sluggish , raw , and unactive , with those that are Eupeptic , and promote Concoction : There are Pectorals for the Breast and Bowels . Those of middle Nature , according as they appear to be more or less Specific ; and as their Characters ( tho' briefly ) are describ'd in our foregoing Catalogue : For notwithstanding it seem in general , that raw Sallets and Herbs have experimentally been found to be the most soveraign Diet in that Endemial ( and indeed with us , Epidemical and almost universal ) Contagion the Scorbute , to which we of this Nation , and most other I●landers are obnoxious ; yet , since the Nasturtia are singly , and alone as it were , the most effectual , and powerful Agents in conquering and expugning that cruel Enemy ; it were enough to give the Sallet-Dresser direction how to choose , mingle , and proportion his Ingredients ; as well as to shew what Remedies there are contain'd in our Magazine of Sallet-Plants upon all Occasions , rightly marshal'd and skilfully apply'd . So as ( with our * * Cowley , Garden , Miscel. Stanz. 8. sweet Cowley ) If thro the strong and beauteous Fence Of Temperance and Innocence , And wholsome Labours , and a quiet Mind , Diseases passage find ; They must not think here to assail A Land unarm'd , or without Guard , They must fight for it , and dispute it hard , Before they can prevail ; Scarce any Plant is used here , Which 'gainst some Aile a Weapon does not bear .

We have said how necessary it is , that in the Composure of a Sallet , every Plant should come in to bear its part , without being over-power'd by some Herb of a stronger Taste , so as to endanger the native Sapor and Vertue of the rest ; but fall into their places , like the Notes in Music , in which there should be nothing harsh or grating : And tho admitting some Discords ( to distinguish and illustrate the rest ) striking in the more sprightly , and sometimes gentler Notes , reconcile all Dissonancies , and melt them into an agreeable Composition . Thus the Comical Master-Cook , introduc'd by Damoxenus , when asked 〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉 ; What Harmony there was in Meats ? The very same ( says he ) that a Diatessaron , Diapente , and Diapason have one to another in a Consort of Music : And that there was as great care requir'd , not to mingle * *

Sapores minime Consentientes 〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉 : Haec despicere ingeniosi est artificis : Neither did the Artist mingle his Provisions without extraordinary Study and Consideration : 〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉 . Horum singulis seorsum assumptis , tu expedito : Sic ego tanquam Oraculo jubeo . — Itaque literarum ignarum Coquum , tu cum videris , & qui Democriti scripta omnia non perlegerit , vel potius , impromptu non habeat , eum deride ut futilem : Ac illum Mercede conducito , qui Epicuri Canonem usu plane didicerit , &c. as it follows in the Gastronomia of Archestratus , Athen. lib. xxiii . Such another Bragadoccio Cook Horace describes , Nec sibi Coenarum quivis temerè arroget artem Non prius exactâ tenui ratione saporem . Sat. lib. ii . Sat. 4.

Sapores minime consentientes , jarring and repugnant Tastes ; looking upon him as a lamentable Ignorant , who should be no better vers'd in Democritus . The whole Scene is very diverting , as Athenaeus presents it ; and to the same sense Macrobius , Saturn . lib. 1. cap. 1. In short , the main Skill of the Artist lies in this : What choice to choose , for delicacy best ; What Order so contriv'd , as not to mix Tastes not well join'd , inelegant , but bring Taste after Taste , upheld by kindliest change . As our * * Milton's Paradise Lost . Paradisian Bard introduces Eve , dressing of a Sallet for her Angelical Guest .

Thus , by the discreet choice and mixture of the Oxo●on ( Oyl , Vinegar , Salt , &c. ) the Composition is perfect ; so as neither the Prodigal , Niggard , nor Insipid , should ( according to the Italian Rule ) prescribe in my Opinion ; since One may be too profuse , the Other — * Qui Tingat olus siccum muria vafer in calice emptâ , ●ose-sacrum irrorans piper — Pers. Sat. vi . over-saving , and the Third ( like himself ) give it no Relish at all : It may be too sharp , if it exceed a grateful Acid ; too Insulse and flat , if the Profusion be extream . From all which it appears , that a Wise-Man is the proper Composer of an excellent Sallet , and how many Transcendences belong to an accomplish'd Sallet-Dresser , so as to emerge an exact Critic indeed , He should be skill'd in the Degrees , Terms , and various Species of Tastes , according to the Scheme set us down in the Tables of the Learned * * Dr. Grew , Lect. vi . c. 2 , 3. Dr. Grew , to which I refer the Curious .

'T is moreover to be consider'd , that Edule Plants are not in all their Tastes and Vertues alike : For as Providence has made us to consist of different Parts and Members , both Internal and External ; so require they different Juices to nourish and supply them : Wherefore the force and activity of some Plants lie in the Root ; and even the Leaves of some Bitter-Roots are sweet , and è contra . Of others , in the Stem , Leaves , Buds , Flowers , &c. Some exert their Vigour without Decoction ; others being a little press'd or contus'd ; others again Raw , and best in Consort ; some alone , and per se without any 〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉 , Preparation , or Mixture at all . Care therefore must be taken by the Collector , that what he gathers answer to these Qualities ; and that as near as he can , they consist ( I speak of the cruder Salleting ) of the Oluscula , and ex foliis pubescentibus , or ( as Martial calls them ) Prototomi rudes , and very tenderest Parts Gems , young Buds , and even first Rudiments of their several Plants ; such as we sometimes find in the Craws of the Wood-Culver , Stock-Dove , Partridge , Pheasants , and other Upland Fowl , where we have a natural Sallet , pick'd , and almost dress'd to our hands .

I. Preparatory to the Dressing therefore , let your Herby Ingredients be exquisitely cull'd , and cleans'd of all worm-eaten , slimy , canker'd , dry , spotted , or any ways vitiated Leaves . And then that they be rather discreetly sprinkl'd , than over-much sob'd with Spring-Water , especially Lettuce , which Dr. * * Muffet , de Diaeta , c. 23. Muffet thinks impairs their Vertue ; but this , I suppose he means of the Cabbage-kind , whose heads are sufficiently protected by the outer Leaves which cover it . After washing , let them remain a while in the Cullender , to drain the superfluous moisture : And lastly , swing them altogether gently in a clean course Napkin ; and so they will be in perfect condition to receive the Intinctus following .

II. That the Oyl , an Ingredient so indispensibly and highly necessary , as to have obtain'd the name of Cibarium ( and with us of Sallet-Oyl ) be very clean , not high-colour'd , nor yellow ; but with an Eye rather of a pallid Olive green , without Smell , or the least touch of rancid , or indeed of any other sensible Taste or Scent at all ; but smooth , light , and pleasant upon the Tongue ; such as the genuine Omphacine , and native Luca Olives afford , fit to allay the tartness of Vinegar , and other Acids , yet gently to warm and humectate where it passes . Some who have an aversion to Oyl , substitute fresh Butter in its stead ; but 't is so exceedingly clogging to the Stomach , as by no means to be allow'd .

III. Thirdly , That the Vinegar , and other liquid Acids , perfectly clear , neither sowre , Vapid or spent ; be of the best Wine Vinegar , whether Distill'd , or otherwise Aromatiz'd , and impregnated with the Infusion of Clove-gillyflowers , Elder , Roses , Rosemary , Nasturtium , &c. inrich'd with the Vertues of the Plant.

A Verjuice not unfit for Sallet , is made by a Grape of that Name , or the green immature Clusters of most other Grapes , press'd , and put into a small Vessel to ferment .

IV. Fourthly , That the Salt ( aliorum Condimentorum Condimentum , as Plutarch calls it ) detersive , penetrating , quickning ( and so great a resister of Putrefaction , and universal use , as to have sometimes merited Divine Epithets ) be of the brightest Bay grey-Salt ; moderately dried , and contus'd , as being the least Corrosive : But of this , as of Sugar also , which some mingle with the Salt ( as warming without heating ) if perfectly refin'd , there would be no great difficulty ; provided none , save Ladies , were of the Mess ; whilst the perfection of Sallets , and that which gives them the name , consists in the grateful Saline Acid-point , temper'd as is directed , and which we find to be most esteem'd by judicious Palates : Some , in the mean time , have been so nice , and luxuriously curious as for the heightning , and ( as they affect to speak ) giving the utmost poinant and Relevèe in lieu of our vulgar Salt , to recommend and cry-up the Essential-Salts and Spirits of the most Sanative Vegetables ; or such of the Alcalizate and Fixt ; extracted from the Calcination of Baulm , Rosemary , Wormwood , Scurvy-grass , &c. Affirming that without the gross Plant , we might have healing , cooling , generous , and refreshing Cordials , and all the Materia Medica out of the Salt-Cellar only : But to say no more of this Impertinence , as to Salts of Vegetables ; many indeed there be , who reckon them not much unlike in Operation , however different in Taste , Crystals , and Figure : It being a question , whether they at all retain the Vertues and Faculties of their Simples . unless they could be made without Colcination . Franciscus Redi , gives us his Opinion of this , in a Process how they are to be prepar'd ; and so does our Learned * * Dr. Grew , Annat . Plant. Lib. 1. Sect. iv . cap. 1 , &c. See also , Transact . Num. 107. Vol. ix . Doctor ( whom we lately nam'd ) whether Lixivial , Essential , Marine , or other factitious Salts of Plants , with their Qualities , and how they differ : But since 't is thought all Fixed Salts made the common way , are little better than our common Salt , let it suffice , that our Sallet-Salt be of the best ordinary Bay-Salt , clean , bright , dry , and without clamminess .

Of Sugar ( by some call'd Indian-Salt ) as it is rarely us'd in Sallet , it should be of the best refined , white , hard , close , yet light and sweet as the Madera's : Nourishing , preserving , cleansing , delighting the Taste , and preferrable to Honey for most uses . Note , That both this , Salt , and Vinegar , are to be proportion'd to the Constitution , as well as what is said of the Plants themselves . The one for cold , the other for hot Stomachs .

V. That the Mustard ( another noble Ingredient ) be of the best Tewksberry ; or else compos'd of the soundest and weightiest Yorkshire Seed , exquisitely sifted , winnow'd , and freed from the Husks , a little ( not over-much ) dry'd by the Fire , temper'd to the consistence of a Pap with Vinegar , in which shavings of the Horse-Radish have been steep'd : Then cutting an Onion , and putting it into a small Earthen Gally-Pot , or some thick Glass of that shape ; pour the Mustard over it , and close it very well with a Cork . There be , who preserve the Flower and Dust of the bruised Seed in a well-stopp'd Glass , to temper , and have it fresh when they please . But what is yet by some esteem'd beyond all these , is compos'd of the dried Seeds of the Indian Nasturtium , reduc'd to Powder , finely bolted , and mixt with a little Levain , and so from time to time made fresh , as indeed all other Mustard should be .

Note , That the Seeds are pounded in a Mortar ; or bruis'd with a polish'd Cannon-Bullet , in a large wooden Bowl-Dish , or which is most preferr'd , ground in a Quern contriv'd for this purpose only .

VI. Sixthly , That the Pepper ( white or black ) be not bruis'd to too small a Dust ; which , as we caution'd , is very prejudicial . And here let me mention the Root of the Minor Pimpinella , or small Burnet Saxifrage ; which being dried , is by some extoll'd beyond all other Peppers , and more wholsom .

Of other Strewings and Aromatizers , which may likewise be admitted to inrich our Sallet , we have already spoken , where we mention Orange and Limon-peel ; to which may also be added , Jamaica-Pepper , Juniper-berries , &c. as of singular Vertue .

Nor here should I omit ( the mentioning at least of ) Saffron , which the German Housewives have a way of forming into Balls , by mingling it with a little Honey ; which throughly dried , they reduce to Powder , and sprinkle it over their Sallets for a noble Cordial . Those of Spain and Italy , we know , generally make use of this Flower , mingling its golden Tincture with almost every thing they eat ; But its being so apt to prevail above every thing with which 't is blended , we little incourage its admittance into our Sallet .

VII . Seventhly , That there be the Yolks of fresh and new-laid Eggs , boil'd moderately hard , to be mingl'd and mash'd with the Mustard , Oyl , and Vinegar ; and part to cut into quarters , and eat with the Herbs .

VIII . Eighthly , ( according to the super-curious ) that the Knife , with which the Sallet Herbs are cut ( especially Oranges , Limons , &c. ) be of Silver , and by no means of Steel , which all Acids are apt to corrode , and retain a Metalic relish of .

IX . Ninthly and Lastly , That the Saladiere , ( Sallet-Dishes ) be of Porcelane , or of the Holland-Delft-Ware ; neither too deep nor shallow , according to the quantity of the Sallet Ingredients ; Pewter , or even Silver , not at all so well agreeing with Oyl and Vinegar , which leave their several Tinctures . And note , That there ought to be one of the Dishes , in which to beat and mingle the Liquid Vehicles ; and a second to receive the crude Herbs in , upon which they are to be pour'd ; and then with a Fork and a Spoon kept continually stirr'd , 'till all the Furniture be equally moisten'd : Some , who are Husbands of their Oyl , pour at first the Oyl alone , as more apt to communicate and diffuse its Slipperiness , than when it is mingled and beaten with the Acids ; which they pour on last of all ; and 't is incredible how small a quantity of Oyl ( in this quality , like the gilding of Wyer ) is sufficient , to imbue a very plentiful assembly of Sallet-Herbs .

The Sallet-Gatherer likewise should be provided with a light , and neatly made Withy-Dutch-Basket , divided into several Partitions .

Thus Instructed and knowing in the Apparatus ; the Species , Proportions , and manner of Dressing , according to the several Seasons you have in the following Table .

It being one of the Inquiries of the Noble * * Philosoph . Transact . Vol. III. Num. xl . p. 799. Mr. Boyle , what Herbs were proper and fit to make Sallets with , and how best to order them ? we have here ( by the Assistance of Mr. London , His Majesty's Principal Gard'ner ) reduc'd them to a competent Number , not exceeding Thirty Five ; but which may be vary'd and inlarg'd , by taking-in , or leaving out , any other Sallet-Plant , mention'd in the foregoing List , under these three or four Heads .

Species . Ordering and Culture . Month. Order . and Cult. Species . IX . Blanch d. 1. Endive , Tied-up to Blanch. January , February and March . April , May ,
Blanch'd as before

Green and Unblanch'd

Blanch'd

Green Herbs Unblanch'd .
Rampions , Endive , Succory , Fennel , sweet . Sellery , Lamb-Lettuce , Lob-Lettuce , Radish , Cresses , Turneps , Mustard Seedling Scurvy-grass , Spinach , Sorrel , Greenlan● Sorrel , French , Chervel , sweet , Burnet , Rocket , Tarragon , Balm , Mint , Sampier , Shalots , Gives , Cabbage-Winte● Lop Silesian Winter Roman Winter Radishes , Cresses , Purselan , Sorrel , French , Sampier , 2. Cichory , Earth'd-up . 3. Sellery , 4. Sweet-Fennel , 5. Rampions , 6. Roman Lettuce ,
Tied-up to Blanch.

Tied close up .

Pome and Blanch of themselves .
7. Cosse Lettuce , 8. Silesian Lettuce , 9. Cabbage Lettuce , XXVI . Green 〈…〉 10. Lob-Lettuce , Leaves , all of a midling size . 11. Corn-Sallet , 12. Purslane , 13. Cress●s broad , Seed-Leaves , and the next to them . 14. Spinach , curled , 15. Sorrel , French , The fine young Leaves only , with the first Shoots . 16. Sorrel , Greenland , 17. Radish , Only the tender young Leaves . 18. Cresses , The Seed-Leaves , and those only next them . 19. Turnep , The Seed-Leaves only . 20. Mustard , 21. Scurvy-grass , 22. Chervil , The young Leaves immediately after the Seedlings . 23. Burnet , 24. Rocket , Spanish , 25. Persly , 26. Tarragon , The tender Shoots and Tops . 27. Mints , 28. Sampier , The young tender Leaves and Shoots . 29. Balm , 30. Sage , Red , 31. Shalots , The tender young Leaves . 32. Cives and Onion , 33. Nasturtium , Indian The Flowers and Bud-Flowers . 34. Rampion , Belgrade , The Seed-Leaves and young Tops . 35. Trip-Madame ,

Proportion . Month. Order . and Cult ▪ Species . Proportion . 10 Roots in Number . 2 Roots in Number . 5 Roots in Number . 10 Roots in Number . 4 Roots in Number .
A pugil of each .

Three parts each .

Of each One part .

Two parts .

One part of each .

Twenty large Leaves .

One small part of each .

Very few .

Two pugils or small handfuls .

Of each a pugil .

Three parts .

Two parts .

1 Fasciat , or pretty full gripe .

Two parts .

One part .
and June . July , August , and September . October , November , and December .
Note , That the young Seedling Leaves of Orange and Limon may all these Months be mingled with the Sallet .
Blanch'd , and may be eaten by themselves with some Nasturtium - Flowers . Green Herbs by themselves , or mingl'd with the Blanch'd . Blanch'd Green Onions , young . Sage-tops , the Red , Persley , Cresses , the Indian , Lettuce , Belgrade , Trip-Madame , Chervil , sweet . Burnet , Silesian Lettuce , Roman Lettuce , Cress , Cabbage , Cresses , Nasturtium , Purslane , Lop-Lettuce , Belgrade , or Crumpen - Lettuce . Tarragon , Sorrel , French , Burnet , Trip-Madame , Endive . Sellery , Lop-Lettuce , Lambs-Lettuce , Radish , Cresses , Turneps , Mustard Seedlings , Cresses , broad , Spinach ,
Six parts .

Two parts .

Of each One part .

Two parts .

One whole Lettuce .

Two parts .

Four parts .

Two parts .

One part .

Two parts .

One part .

Two parts of each .

One part .

Two if large , four if small , Stalk and part of the Root and tenderest Leaves .

An handful of each .

Three parts .

Two parts .

One part of each .

Two parts of each .

But all these sorts are not to be had at the very same time , and therefore we have divided them into the Quarterly Seasons , each containing and lasting Three Months .

Note , That by Parts is to be understood a Pugil ; which is no more than one does usually take up between the Thumb and the two next Fingers . By Fascicule a reasonable full Grip , or Handful .

Farther Directions concerning the proper Seasons , for the Gathering , Composing , and Dressing of a Sallet .

AND First , as to the Season , both Plants and Roots are then properly to be Gather'd , and in prime , when most they abound with Juice and in Vigour : Some in the Spring , or a little anticipating it before they Blossom , or are in full Flower : Some in the Autumnal Months ; which later Season many preferr , the Sap of the Herb , tho' not in such exuberance , yet as being then better concocted , and so render'd fit for Salleting , 'till the Spring begins a fresh to put forth new , and tender Shoots and Leaves .

This , indeed , as to the Root , newly taken out of the Ground is true ; and therefore should such have their Germination stopt the sooner : The approaching and prevailing Cold , both Maturing and Impregnating them ; as does Heat the contrary , which now would but exhaust them : But for those other Esculents and Herbs imploy'd in our Composition of Sallets , the early Spring , and ensuing Months ( till they begin to mount , and prepare to Seed ) is certainly the most natural , and kindly Season to collect and accommodate them for the Table . Let none then consult Culpeper , or the Figure-flingers , to inform them when the governing Planet is in its Exaltation ; but look upon the Plants themselves , and judge of their Vertues by their own Complexions .

Moreover , In Gathering , Respect is to be had to their Proportions , as provided for in the Table under that Head , be the Quality whatsoever : For tho' there is indeed nothing more wholsome than Lettuce and Mustard for the Head and Eyes ; yet either of them eaten in excess , were highly prejudicial to them both : Too much of the first extreamly debilitating and weakning the Ventricle , and hastning the further decay of sickly Teeth ; and of the second the Optic Nerves , and Sight it self ; the like may be said of all the rest . I conceive therefore , a Prudent Person , well acquainted with the Nature and Properties of Sallet-Herbs , &c. to be both the fittest Gatherer and Composer too ; which yet will require no great Cunning , after once he is acquainted with our Table and Catalogue .

We purposely , and in transitu only , take notice here of the Pickl'd , Muriated , or otherwise prepared Herbs ; excepting some such Plants , and Proportions of them , as are of hard digestion , and not fit to be eaten altogether Crude , ( of which in the Appendix ) and among which I reckon Ash-keys , Broom-buds and Pods , Haricos , Gurkems , Olives , Capers , the Buds and Seeds of Nasturtia , Young Wall-nuts , Pine-apples , Eringo , Cherries , Cornelians , Berberries , &c. together with several Stalks , Roots , and Fruits ; Ordinary Pot-herbs , Anis , Cistus Hortorum , Horminum , Pulegium , Satureia , Thyme ; the intire Family of Pulse and Legumena ; or other Sauces , Pies , Tarts , Omlets , Tansie , Farces , &c. Condites and Preserves with Sugar by the Hand of Ladies ; tho' they are all of them the genuine Production of the Garden , and mention'd in our Kalendar , together with their Culture ; whilst we confine our selves to such Plants and Esculenta as we find at hand ; delight our selves to gather , and are easily prepar'd for an Extemporary Collation , or to Usher in , and Accompany other ( more Solid , tho' haply not more Agreeable ) Dishes , as the Custom is .

But there now starts up a Question , Whether it were better , or more proper , to Begin with Sallets , or End and Conclude with them ? Some think the harder Meats should first be eaten for better Concoction ; others , those of easiest Digestion , to make way , and prevent Obstruction ; and this makes for our Sallets , Horarii , and Fugaces Fructus ( as they call 'em ) to be eaten first of all , as agreeable to the general Opinion of the great Hippocrates , and Galen , and of Celsus before him . And therefore the French do well , to begin with their Herbaceous Pottage , and for the Cruder , a Reason is given : * * Mart. Epig. lib. xi . 39. Prima tibi dabitur Ventri Lactuca movendo Vtilis , & Poris fila resecta suis . And tho' this Custom came in about Domitian's time † † Athen. l. 2. Of which Change of Diet se● Plut. iv . Sympos . 9. Plinii Epist. 1. ad Eretrium . , 〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉 , they anciently did quite the contrary , ‖ ‖ Virg. Moreto . Gratáque nobilium Lactuca ciborum . But of later Times , they were constant at the Ante-coenia , eating plentifully of Sallet , especially of Lettuce , and more refrigerating Herbs . Nor without Cause : For drinking liberally , they were found to expell , and allay the Fumes and Vapors of the genial Compotation , the spirituous Liquor gently conciliating Sleep : Besides , that being of a crude nature , more dispos'd , and apt to fluctuate , corrupt , and disturb a surcharg'd Stomach ; they thought convenient to begin with Sallets , and innovate the ancient Usage .

* * Hor. Sat. l. 2. Sat. 4. — Nam Lactuca innatat acri Post Vinum Stomacho — For if on drinking Wine you Lettuce eat , It floats upon the Stomach —

The Spaniards , notwithstanding , eat but sparingly of Herbs at Dinner , especially Lettuce , beginning with Fruit , even before the Olio and Hot-Meats come to the Table ; drinking their Wine pure , and eating the best Bread in the World ; so as it seems the Question still remains undecided with them , † † Mart. Ep. l. v. Ep. 17. Claudere quae coenas Lactuca solebat avorum Dic mihi cur nostras inchoat illa dapes ? The Sallet , which of old came in at last , Why now with it begin we our Repast ?

And now since we mention'd Fruit , there rises another Scruple : Whether Apples , Pears , Abricots , Cherries , Plums , and other Tree , and Ort-yard-Fruit , are to be reckon'd among Salleting ; and when likewise most seasonably to be eaten ? But as none of these do properly belong to our Catalogue of Herbs and Plants , to which this Discourse is confin'd ( besides what we may occasionally speak of hereafter ) there is a very useful * * Concerning the Use of Fruit ( besides many others ) whether best to be eaten before , or after Meal● ? Published by a Physician of Rochel , and render'd out of French into English . Printed by T. Basset in Fleetstreet . Treatise on that Subject already publish●d . We hasten then in the next place to the Dressing , and Composing of our Sallet : For by this time , our Scholar may long to see the Rules reduc'd to Practice , and Refresh himself with what he finds growing among his own Lactuceta and other Beds of the Kitchin-Garden .

DRESSING .

I Am not ambitious of being thought an excellent Cook , or of those who set up , and value themselves , for their Skill in Sauces ; such as was Mithacus a Culinary Philosopher , and other Eruditae Gulae ; who read Lectures of Hautgouts , like the Archestratus in Athenaeus : Tho' after what we find the Heroes did of old , and see them chining out the slaughter'd Ox , dressing the Meat , and do the Offices of both Cook and Butcher , ( for so * * Achilles , Patroclus , Automedon . Iliad . ix ▪ & alibi . Homer represents Achilles himself , and the rest of those Illustrious Greeks ) I say , after this , let none reproach our Sallet-Dresser , or disdain so clean , innocent , sweet , and Natural a Quality ; compar'd with the Shambles Filth and Nidor , Blood and Cruelty ; whilst all the World were Eaters , and Composers of Sallets in its best and brightest Age.

The Ingredients therefore gather'd and proportion'd , as above ; Let the Endive have all its out-side Leaves stripp'd off , slicing in the White : In like manner the Sellery is also to have the hollow green Stem or Stalk trimm'd and divided ; slicing-in the blanched Part , and cutting the Root into four equal Parts .

Lettuce , Cresses , Radish , &c. ( as was directed ) must be exquisitely pick'd , cleans'd , wash'd , and put into the Strainer ; swing'd , and shaken gently , and , if you please , separately , or all together ; Because some like not so well the Blanch'd and Bitter Herbs , if eaten with the rest : Others mingle Endive , Succory , and Rampions , without distinction , and generally eat Sellery by it self , as also Sweet Fennel .

From April till September ( and during all the Hot Months ) may Guinny-Pepper , and Horse-Radish be left out ; and therefore we only mention them in the Dressing , which should be in this manner .

Your Herbs being handsomly parcell'd , and spread on a clean Napkin before you , are to be mingl'd together in one of the Earthen glaz'd Dishes : Then , for the Oxolcon ; Take of clear , and perfectly good Oyl-Olive , three Parts ; of sharpest Vinegar ( ‖ ‖ For so some pronounce it , V. Athenaeum Deip. Lib. II. Cap. 26. 〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉 quasi 〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉 , perhaps for that it incites Appetite , and causes Hunger , which is the best Sauce . sweetest of all Condiments ) Limon , or Juice of Orange , one Part ; and therein let steep some Slices of Horse-Radish , with a little Salt : Some in a separate Vinegar , gently bruise a Pod of Guinny-Pepper , straining both the Vinegars apart , to make Use of Either , or One alone , or of both , as they best like ; then add as much Tewkesbury , or other dry Mustard grated , as will lie upon an Half-Crown Piece : Beat , and mingle all these very well together ; but pour not on the Oyl and Vinegar , 'till immediately before the Sallet is ready to be eaten : And then with the Yolk of two new-laid Eggs ( boyl'd and prepar'd , as before is taught ) squash , and bruise them all into mash with a Spoon ; and lastly , pour it all upon the Herbs , stirring , and mingling them 'till they are well and throughly imbib'd ; not forgetting the Sprinklings of Aromaticks , and such Flowers , as we have already mentioned , if you think fit , and garnishing the Dish with the thin Slices of Horse-Radish , Red Beet , Berberries , &c.

Note , That the Liquids may be made more , or less Acid , as is most agreeable to your Taste .

These Rules , and Prescriptions duly Observ'd ; you have a Sallet ( for a Table of Six or Eight Persons ) Dress'd , and Accommodated secundum Artem : For , as the † † Cratinus in Glauco , Proverb has it ,

〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉 . Non est ▪ cujusvis rectè condire .

AND now after all we have advanc'd in favour of the Herbaceous Diet , there still emerges a third inquiry ; namely , Whether the Use of Crude Herbs and Plants are so wholesom as is pretended ?

What Opinion the Prince of Physicians had of them , we shall see hereafter ; as also what the Sacred Records of elder Times seem to infer , before there were any Flesh-Shambles in the World ; together with the Reports of such as are often conversant among many Nations and People , who to this Day , living on Herbs and Roots , arrive to incredible Age , in constant Health and Vigour : Which , whether attributable to the Air and Climate , Custom , Constitution , &c. should be inquir'd into ; especially , when we compare the Antediluvians mention'd Gen. 1.29 . — the whole Fifth and Ninth Chapters , ver. 3. confining them to Fruit and wholesom Sallets : I deny not that both the Air and Earth might then be less humid and clammy , and consequently Plants , and Herbs better fermented , concocted , and less Rheumatick , than since , and presently after ; to say nothing of the infinite Numbers of putrid Carcasses of Dead Animals , perishing in the Flood , ( of which I find few , if any , have taken notice ) which needs must have corrupted the Air : Those who live in Marshes , and Uliginous Places ( like the Hundreds of Essex ) being more obnoxious to Fevers , Agues , Pleurisies , and generally unhealthful : The Earth also then a very Bog , compar'd with what it likely was before that destructive Cataclysm , when Men breath'd the pure Paradisian Air , sucking in a more aethereal , nourishing , and baulmy Pabulum , so soully vitiated now , thro' the Intemperance , Luxury , and softer Education and Effeminacy of the Ages since .

Custom , and Constitution come next to be examin'd , together with the Qualities , and Vertue of the Food ; and I confess , the two first , especially that of Constitution , seems to me the more likely Cause of Health , and consequently of Long-life ; which induc'd me to consider of what Quality the usual Sallet Furniture did more eminently consist , that so it might become more safely applicable to the Temper , Humour , and Disposition of our Bodies ; according to which , the various Mixtures might be regulated and proportion'd : There 's no doubt , but those whose Constitutions are Cold and Moist , are naturally affected with Things which are Hot and Dry ; as on the contrary , Hot , and Dry Complexions , with such as cool and refrigerate ; which perhaps made the Junior Gordian ( and others like him ) prefer the frigidae Mensae ( as of old they call'd Sallets ) which , according to Cornelius Celsus , is the fittest Diet for Obese and Corpulent Persons , as not so Nutritive , and apt to Pamper : And consequently , that for the Cold , Lean , and Emaciated ; such Herby Ingredients should be made choice of , as warm , and cherish the Natural Heat , depure the Blood , breed a laudable Juice , and revive the Spirits : And therefore my Lord * * Nat. Hist. IV. Cent. VII . 130. Se Arist. Prob. Sect. xx . Quaest. 36. Why some Fruits and Plants are best raw , others boil'd , roasted , &c , as becoming sweeter ; but the Crude more sapid and grateful . Bacon shews what are best Raw , what Boil'd , and what Parts of Plants fittest to nourish . Galen indeed seems to exclude them all , unless well accompanied with their due Correctives , of which we have taken care : Notwithstanding yet , that even the most Crude and Herby , actually Cold and Weak , may potentially be Hot , and Strengthning , as we find in the most vigorous Animals , whose Food is only Grass . 'T is true indeed , Nature has providentially mingl'd , and dress'd a Sallet for them in every Field , besides what they distinguish by Smell ; nor question I , but Man at first knew what Plants and Fruits were good , before the Fall , by his Natural Sagacity , and not Experience ; which since by Art , and Trial , and long Observation of their Properties and Effects , they hardly recover : But in all Events , supposing with * * Card. Contradicent . Med. l. iv . Cant. 18. Diphilus not at all . Athenaeus . Cardan , that Plants nourish little , they hurt as little . Nay , Experience tells us , that they not only hurt not at all , but exceedingly benefit those who use them ; indu'd as they are with such admirable Properties as they every day discover : For some Plants not only nourish laudably , but induce a manifest and wholesom Change ; as Onions , Garlick , Rochet , &c. which are both nutritive and warm ; Lettuce , Purselan , the Intybs , &c. and indeed most of the Olera , refresh and cool : And as their respective Juices being converted into the Substances of our Bodies , they become Aliment ; so in regard of their Change and Alteration , we may allow them Medicinal ; especially the greater Numbers , among which we all this while have skill but of very few ( not only in the Vegetable Kingdom , but in the whole Materia Medica ) which may be justly call'd Infallible Specifics , and upon whose Performance we may as safely depend , as we may on such as familiarly we use for a Crude Herb Sallet ; discreetly chosen , mingl'd , and dress'd accordingly : Not but that many of them may be improv'd , and render'd better in Broths , and Decoctions , than in Oyl , Vinegar , and other Liquids and Ingredients : But as this holds not in all , nay , perhaps in few comparatively , ( provided , as I said , the Choice , Mixture , Constitution , and Season rightly be understood ) we stand up in Defence and Vindication of our Sallet , against all Attacks and Opposers whoever .

We have mentione● Season , and with the great Hippocrates , pronounce them more proper for the Summer , than the Winter ; and when those Parts of Plants us'd in Sallet are yet tender , delicate , and impregnated with the Vertue of the Spring , to cool , refresh , and allay the Heat and Drought of the Hot and Bilious , Young and over - Sanguine , Cold , Pituit , and Melancholy ; in a word , for Persons of all Ages , Humours , and Constitutions whatsoever .

To this of the Annual Seasons , we add that of Culture also , as of very great Importance : And this is often discover'd in the Taste , and consequently , in the Goodness of such Plants and Salleting , as are Rais'd and brought us fresh out of the Country , compar'd with those which the Avarice of the Gardiner , or Luxury rather of the Age , tempts them to force and Resuscitate of the most desirable and delicious Plants .

It is certain , says a * * Sir Tho. Brown's Miscel. Learned Person , that about populous Cities , where Grounds are overforc'd for Fruit and early Salleting , nothing is more unwholsom : Men in the Country look so much more healthy and fresh ; and commonly are longer liv'd than those who dwell in the Middle and Skirts of vast and crowded Cities , inviron'd with rotten Dung , loathsome and common Lay-Stalls ; whose noisome Steams , wafted by the Wind , poison and infect the ambient Air and vital Spirits , with those pernicious Exhalations , and Materials of which they make the Hot Beds for the raising those Praecoces indeed , and forward Plants and Roots for the wanton Palate ; but which being corrupt in the Original , cannot but produce malignant and ill Effects to those who feed upon them . And the same was well observ'd by the Editor of our famous Roger Bacon's Treatise concerning the Cure of Old Age , and Preservation of Youth : There being nothing so proper for Sallet Herbs and other Edule Plants , as the Genial and Natural Mould , impregnate , and enrich'd with well-digested Compost ( when requisite ) without any Mixture of Garbage , odious Carrion , and other filthy Ordure , not half consum'd and ventilated and indeed reduc'd to the next Disposition of Earth it self , as it should be ; and that in Sweet , ‖ ‖ Caule suburbano qui siccis crevit in agris Dulcior . — Hor. Sat. l. 2. §. 4. Rising , Aery and moderately Perflatile Grounds ; where not only Plants but Men do last , and live much longer . Nor doubt I , but that every body would prefer . Corn , and other Grain rais'd from Marle , Chalk , Lime , and other sweet Soil and Amendments , before that which is produc'd from the Dunghil only . Beside , Experience shews , that the Rankness of Dung is frequently the Cause of Blasts and Smuttiness ; as if the Lord of the Vniverse , by an Act of visible Providence would check us , to take heed of all unnatural Sordidness and Mixtures We sensibly find this Difference in Cattle and their Pasture ; but most powerfully in Fowl , from such as are nourish'd with Corn , sweet and dry Food : And as of Vegetable Meats , so of Drinks , 't is observ'd , that the same Vine , according to the Soil , produces a Wine twice as heady as in the same , and a less forc'd Ground ; and the like I believe of all other Fruit , not to determine any thing of the Peach said to be Poison in Persia ; because 't is a Vulgar Error .

Now , because among other things , nothing more betrays its unclean and spurious Birth than what is so impatiently longed after as Early Asparagus , &c. * * Transact . Philos. Num. xxv . Dr. Lister , ( according to his communicative and obliging Nature ) has taught us how to raise such as our Gardiners cover with nasty Litter , during the Winter ; by rather laying of Clean and Sweet Wheat-Straw upon the Beds , super-seminating and over-strowing them thick with the Powder of bruised Oyster-Shells , &c. to produce that most tender and delicious Sallet . In the mean while , if nothing will satisfie save what is rais'd Ex tempore , and by Miracles of Art so long before the time ; let them study ( like the Adepti ) as did a very ingenious Gentleman whom I knew ; That having some Friends of his accidentally come to Dine with him , and wanting an early Sallet , Before they sate down to Table , sowed Lettuce and some other Seeds in a certain Composition of Mould he had prepared ; which within the space of two Hours , being risen near two Inches high , presented them with a delicate and tender Sallet ; and this , without making use of any nauseous or fulsome Mixture ; but of Ingredients not altogether so cheap perhaps . Honoratus Faber ( no mean Philosopher ) shews us another Method by sowing the Seeds steep'd in Vinegar , casting on it a good Quantity of Bean-Shell Ashes , irrigating them with Spirit of Wine , and keeping the Beds well cover'd under dry Matts . Such another Process for the raising early Peas and Beans , &c. we have the like * * Num. xviii . Accounts of : But were they practicable and certain , I confess I should not be fonder of them , than of such as the honest industrious Country-man's Field , and Good-Wife's Garden seasonably produce ; where they are legitimately born in just time , and without forcing Nature .

But to return again to Health and Long Life , and the Wholesomness of the Herby-Diet , * * Thesaur . Sanit . c. 2. John Beverovicius , a Learn'd Physician ( out of Peter Moxa , a Spaniard ) treating of the extream Age , which those of America usually arrive to , asserts in behalf of Crude and Natural Herbs : Diphilus of old , as † † As Delcampius interprets the Place . Athenaeus tells us , was on the other side , against all the Tribe of Olera in general ; and Cardan of late ( as already noted ) no great Friend to them ; Affirming Flesh-Eaters to be much wiser and more sagacious . But this his ‖ ‖ Scaliger ad Card. Exer●it . 213. Learned Antagonist utterly denies ; Whole Nations , Flesh-Devourers ( such as the farthest Northern ) becoming Heavy , Dull , Unactive , and much more Stupid than the Southern ; and such as feed much on Plants , are more Acute , Subtil , and of deeper Penetration : Witness the Chaldaeans , Assyrians , Aegyptians , &c. And further argues from the short Lives of most Carnivorous Animals , compared with Grass Feeders , and the Ruminating kind ; as the Hart , Camel , and the longaevous Elephant , and other Feeders on Roots and Vegetables .

I know what is pretended of our Bodies being composed of Dissimilar Parts , and so requiring Variety of Food : Nor do I reject the Opinion , keeping to the same Species ; of which there is infinitely more Variety in the Herby Family , than in all Nature besides : But the Danger is in the Generical Difference of Flesh , Fish , Fruit , &c. with other made Dishes and exotic Sauces ; which a wanton and expensive Luxury has introduc'd ; debauching the Stomach , and sharpening it to devour things of such difficult Concoction , with those of more easie Digestion , and of contrary Substances , more than it can well dispose of : Otherwise Food of the same kind would do us little hurt : So true is that of * * Cel. Lib. Cap. 4. Celsus , Eduntur facilius ; ad concoctionem autem materiae , genus , & modus pertineat . They are ( says he ) easily eaten and taken in : But regard should be had to their Digestion , Nature , Quantity and Quality of the Matter . As to that of Dissimilar Parts , requiring this contended for Variety : If we may judge by other Animals ( as I know not why we may not ) there is ( after all the late Contests about Comparative Anatomy , ) so little Difference in the Structure , as to the Use of those Parts and Vessels destin'd to serve the Offices of Concoction , Nutrition , and other Separations for Supply of Life , &c. That it does not appear why there should need any Difference at all of Food ; of which the most simple has ever been esteem'd the best , and most wholsome ; according to that of the † † Plin. Nat. Hist. l. 3. c. 12. Naturalist , Hominis cibus utilissimus simplex . And that so it is in other Animals , we find by their being so seldom afflicted with Mens Distempers , deriv'd from the Causes above-mentioned : And if the many Diseases of Horses seem to ‖ ‖ Hanc brevitatem Vitae ( speaking of Horses ) fortasse homini debet , Verul . Hist Vit. & Mort. S●e th●● throughly controverted , Macrob. Saturn . l. vii . c. v. contradict it , I am apt to think it much imputable to the Rack and Manger , the dry and wither'd Stable Commons , which they must eat or starve , however qualified ; being restrained from their Natural and Spontaneous Choice , which Nature and Instinct directs them to : To these add the Closeness of the Air , standing in an almost continu'd Posture ; besides the fulsome Drenches , unseasonable Watrings , and other Practices of ignorant Horse-Quacks and surly Grooms : The Tyranny and cruel Usage of their Masters in tiring Journeys , hard , labouring and unmerciful Treatment , Heats , Colds , &c. which wear out and destroy so many of those useful and generous Creatures before the time : Such as have been better us'd , and some , whom their more gentle and good-natur'd Patrons have in recompence of their long and faithful Service , dismiss'd , and sent to Pasture for the rest of their Lives ( as the Grand-Seignior does his Meccha-Camel ) have been known to live forty , fifty , nay ( says * * Arist. Hist. Animal . l. v. c. 14. Aristotle , no fewer than sixty five Years . When once Old Par came to change his simple , homely Diet , to that of the Court and Arundel-House , he quickly sunk and dropt away : For , as we have shew'd , the Stomack easily concocts plain , and familiar Food ; but finds it an hard and difficult Task , to vanquish and overcome Meats of ‖ ‖ 〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉 . different Substances : Whence we so often see temperate and abstemicus Persons , of a Collegiate Diet , very healthy ; Husbandmen and laborious People , more robust , and longer liv'd than others of an uncertain extravagant Diet.

* * Hor. Sat. l. II. Sat. 2. Macr. Sat. l. VII . — Nam varioe res Vt noceant Homini , credas , memor illius escae , Quae simplex olim tibi sederit — For different Meats do hurt ; Remember how When to one Dish confin'd , thou healthier wast than now :

was Osellus's Memorandum in the Poet.

Not that Variety ( which God has certainly ordain'd to delight and assist our Appetite ) is unnecessary , nor any thing more grateful , refreshing and proper for those especially who lead sedentary and studious Lives ; Men of deep Thought , and such as are otherwise disturb'd with Secular Cares and Businesses , which hinders the Function of the Stomach and other Organs : whilst those who have their Minds free , use much Exercise , and are more active , create themselves a natural Appetite , which needs little or no Variety to quicken and content it .

And here might we attest the Patriarchal World , nay , and many Persons since ; who living very temperately came not much short of the Post-Diluvians themselves , counting from Abraham to this Day ; and some exceeding them , who liv'd in pure Air , a constant , tho' course and simple Diet ; wholsome and uncompounded Drink ; that never tasted Brandy or Exotic Spirits ; but us'd moderate Exercise , and observ'd good Hours : For such a one a curious Missionary tells us of in Persia ; who had attain'd the Age of four hundred Yea●s , ( a full Century beyond the famous Johannes de Temporibus ) and was living Anno 1636 , and so may be still for ought we know . But , to our Sallet .

Certain it is , Almighty God ordaining * * Gen. ix . Herbs and Fruit for the Food of Men , speaks not a Word concerning Flesh for two thousand Years . And when after , by the Mosaic Constitution , there were Distinctions and Prohibitions about the legal Uncleanness of Animals ; Plants , of what kind soever , were left free and indifferent for every one to choose what best he lik'd . And what if it was held undecent and unbecoming the Excellency of Man's Nature , before Sin entred , and grew enormously wicked , that any Creature should be put to Death and Pain for him who had such infinite store of the most delicious and nourishing Fruit to delight , and the Tree of Life to sustain him ? Doubtless there was no need of it . Infants sought the Mother's Nipple as soon as born ; and when grown , and able to feed themselves , run naturally to Fruit , and still will choose to eat it rather than Flesh and certainly might so persist to do , did not Custom prevail , even against the very Dictates of Nature : Nor , question I , but that what the Heathen † † Metam . 1. Fab. iii. and xv . Poets recount of the Happiness of the Golden Age , sprung from some Tradition they had received of the Paradisian Fare , their innocent and healthful Lives in that delightful Garden . Let it suffice , that Adam , and his yet innocent Spouse , fed on Vegetables and other Hortulan Productions before the fatal Lapse ; which , by the way , many Learned Men will hardly allow to have fallen out so soon as those imagine who scarcely grant them a single Day ; nay , nor half a one , for their Continuance in the State of Original Perfection ; whilst the sending him into the Garden ; Instructions how he should keep and cultivate it ; Edict , and Prohibition concerning the Sacramental Trees ; the Imposition of * * Gen. xi . 19. Names , so apposite to the Nature of such an Infinity of Living Creatures ( requiring deep Inspection ) the Formation of Eve , a meet Companion to relieve his Solitude ; the Solemnity of their Marriage ; the Dialogues and Success of the crafty Tempter , whom we cannot reasonably think made but one Assault : And that they should so quickly forget the Injunction of their Maker and Benefactor ; break their Faith and Fast , and all other their Obligations in so few Moments . I say , all these Particulars consider'd ; Can it be supposed they were so soon transacted as those do fancy , who take their Measure from the Summary Moses gives us , who did not write to gratifie Mens Curiosity , but to transmit what was necessary and sufficient for us to know .

This then premis'd ( as I see no Reason why it should not ) and that during all this Space they liv'd on Fruits and Sallets ; 't is little probable , that after their Transgression , and that they had forfeited their Dominion over the Creature ( and were sentenc'd and exil'd to a Life of Sweat and Labour on a cursed and ungrateful Soil ) the offended God should , regale them with Pampering Flesh , or so much as suffer them to slay the more innocent Animal : Or , that if at any time they had Permission , it was for any thing save Skins to cloath them , or in way of Adoration , or Holocaust for Expiation , of which nothing of the Flesh was to be eaten . Nor did the Brutes themselves subsist by Prey ( tho' pleas'd perhaps with Hunting , without destroying their Fellow Creatures ) as may be presum'd from their long Seclusion of the most Carnivorous among them in the Ark.

Thus then for two thousand Years , the Universal Food was Herbs and Plants ; which abundantly recompens'd the Want of Flesh and other luxurious Meats , which shortened their Lives so many hundred Years ; the * * Gen. ix . 〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉 of the Patriarchs , which was an Emblem of Eternity as it were ( after the new Concession ) beginning to dwindle to a little Span , a Nothing in Comparison .

On the other side , examine we the present Usages of several other Heathen Nations ; particularly ( besides the Aegyptian Priests of old ) the Indian Bramins , Relicts of the ancient Gymnosophists to this Day , observing the Institutions of their Founder . Flesh , we know was banish'd the Platonic Tables , as well as from those of Pythagoras ; ( See † † Porphyr . de Abstin . Proclum , Jambleum , &c. Porphyry and their Disciples ) tho' on different Accounts . Among others of the Philosophers , from Xenocrates , Polemon , &c. we hear of many . The like we find in * * Strom. vii . Clement Alexand . † † Praep. Ev. passim . Eusebius names more . Zeno , Archinomus , Phraartes , Chiron , and others , whom Laertius reckons up . In short , so very many , especially of the Christian Profession , that some , even of the ancient * * Tertul. de Jejun . cap. iv . Hieron . advers. Jovin . Fathers themselves , have almost thought that the Permission of eating Flesh to Noah and his Sons , was granted them no otherwise than Repudiation of Wives was to the Jews , namely , for the Hardness of their Hearts , and to sati●fie a murmuring Generation that a little after loathed Manna it self , and Bread from Heaven . So difficult a thing it is to subdue an unruly Appetite ; which notwithstanding ‖ ‖ Sen. Epist. 108. Seneca thinks not so hard a Task ; where speaking of the Philosopher Sextius , and Socion's ( abhorring Cruelty and Intemperance ) he celebrates the Advantages of the Herby and Sallet Diet , as Physical , and Natural Advancers of Health and other Blessings ; whilst Abstinence from Flesh deprives Men of nothing but what Lions , Vultures , Beasts and birds of Prey , blood and gorge themselves withal . The whole Epistle deserves the Reading , for the excellent Advice he gives on this and other Subjects ; and how from many troublesome and slavish Impertinencies , grown into Habit and Custom ( old as he was ) he had Emancipated and freed himself : Be this apply'd to our present excessive Drinkers of Foreign and Exotic Liquors . And now

I am sufficiently sensible how far , and to how little purpose I am gone on this Topic : The Ply is long since taken , and our raw Sallet deckt in its best Trim , is never like to invite Men who once have tasted Flesh to quit and abdicate a Custom which has now so long obtain'd . Nor truly do I think Conscience at all concern'd in the Matter , upon any Account of Distinction of Pure and Impure ; tho' seriously consider'd ( as Sextius held ) rationi magis congrua , as it regards the cruel Butcheries of so many harmless Creatures ; some of which we put to merciless and needless Torment , to accommodate them for exquisite and uncommon Epicurism . There lies else no positive Prohibition ; Discrimination of Meats being * * 1 Cor. viii . 8. 1 Tim. iv . 1.3.14 . Rom. ii . 3. condemn'd as the Doctrine of Devils : Nor do Meats commend us to God . One eats quid vult ( of every thing : ) another Olera , and of Sallets only : But this is not my Business , further than to shew how possible it is by so many Instances and Examples , to live on wholsome Vegetables , both long and happily : For so * * Has Epulas habuit teneri gens aurea mundi , Et coenae ingentis tunc caput ipsa sui . Semideumque meo creverunt corpora succo , Materiam tanti sanguinis ille dedit . Tunc neque fraus nota est , neque vis , neque foeda libido ; Haec nimis proles saeva caloris erat . Sit sacrum illorum , sit detestabile nomen , Qui primi servae regna dedere gulae . Hinc vitiis patefacta via est , morbisque secutis Se lethi facies exeruere novae . Ah , fuge crudeles Animantum sanguine mensas , Quasque tibi obsonat mors inimica dapes . Poscas tandem aeger , si sanus negligis , herbas . Esse cibus nequeunt ? at medicamen erunt . Colci Plaut. lib. I. Lactuca . The Golden Age , with this Provision blest , Such a Grand Sallet made , and was a Feast . The Demi-Gods with Bodies large and sound , Commended then the Product of the Ground . Fraud then , nor Force were known , nor filthy Lust , Which Over-heating and Intemp'rance nurst : Be their vile Names in Execration held , Who with foul Glutt'ny first the World defil'd : Parent of Vice , and all Diseases since , With ghastly Death sprung up alone from thence . Ah , from such reeking , bloody Tables fly , Which Death for our Destruction does supply . In Health , if Sallet-Herbs you can't endure ; Sick , you 'll desire them ; or for Food , or Cure .

As to the other part of the Controversie , which concerns us , 〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉 , and Occidental Blood-Eaters ; some Grave and Learn'd Men of late seem to scruple the present Usage , whilst they see the Prohibition appearing , and to carry such a Face of Antiquity , * * Gen. ix . Scripture , † † Ancyra xiv . Councils , ‖ ‖ Can. Apost. 50 Canons , ⸪ ⸪ Clem. Paedag. Lib 11. c 1. Vide Prudent . Hymn . 〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉 : Nos Oloris Coma , nos siliqua facta legumine multitudo paraveris innocuis Epulis . Fathers ; Imperial Constitutions , and Vniversal Practice , unless it be among us of these Tracts of Europe , whither , with other Barbarities , that of eating the Blood and Animal Life of Creatures first was brought ; and by our Mixtures with the Goths , Vandals , and other Spawn of Pagan Scythians ; grown a Custom , and since which I am persuaded more Blood has been shed between Christians than there ever was before the Water of the Flood covered this Corner of the World : Not that I impute it only to our eating Blood ; but sometimes wonder how it hapned that so strict , so solemn and famous a Sanction not upon , a Ceremonial Account ; but ( as some affirm ) a Moral and Perpetual from Noah , to whom the Concession of eating Flesh was granted , and that of Blood forbidden ( nor to this Day once revok'd ) and whilst there also seems to lie fairer Proofs than for most other Controversies agitated among Christians , should be so generally forgotten , and give place to so many other impertinent Disputes and Cavels about other superstitious Fopperies , which frequently end in Blood and cutting of Throats .

As to the Reason of this Prohibition , its savouring of Cruelty excepted , ( and that by Galen , and other experienc'd Physicians , the eating Blood is condemn'd as unwholsome , causing Indigestion and Obstructions ) if a positive Command of Almighty God were not enough , it seems sufficiently intimated ; because Blood was the Vehicle of the Life and Animal Soul of the Creature : For what other mysterious Cause , as haply its being always dedicated to Expiatory Sacrifices , &c. it is not for us to enquire . 'T is said , that Justin Martyr being asked , why the Christians of his time were permitted the eating Flesh and not the Blood ? readily answer'd , That God might distinguish them from Beasts , which eat them both together . 'T is likewise urg'd , that by the Apostolical Synod ( when the rest of the Jewish Ceremonies and Types were abolish'd ) this Prohibition was mention'd as a thing * * xv Acts , 20 , 29. necessary , and rank'd with Idolatry , which was not to be local or temporary ; but universally injoyn'd to converted Strangers † † Quaest. & Resp. ad Orthod. Tho. Bartholinus , de ●su Sanguinis . and Proselytes , as well as Jews : Nor could the Scandal of neglecting to observe it , concern them alone , after so many Ages as it was and still is in continual Use ; and those who transgress'd , so severely punish'd , as by an Imperial Law to be scourg'd to Blood and Bone : Indeed , so terrible was the Interdiction , that Idolatry excepted ( which was also Moral and perpetual ) nothing in Scripture seems to be more express . In the mean time , to relieve all other Scruples , it does not , they say , extend to that 〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉 of those few diluted Drops of Extravasated Blood , which might happen to tinge the Juice and Gravy of the Flesh ( which were indeed to strain at a Gnat ) but to those who devour the Venal and Arterial Blood separately , and in Quantity , as a choice Ingredient of their luxurious Preparations and Apician Tables .

But this , and all the rest will , I fear , seem but Oleribus verba facere , and ( as the Proverb goes ) be Labour-in-vain to think of preaching down Hogs-Puddings , and usurp the Chair of Rabby-Busy : And therefore what is advanc'd in Countenance of the Antediluvian Diet , we leave to be ventilated by the Learned , and such as Curcellaeus , who has borrow'd of all the Ancient Fathers , from Tertullian , Hierom , S. Chrysostom , &c. to the later Doctors and Divines , Lyra , Tostatus , Dionysius Carthusianus , Pererius , amongst the Pontificians ; of Peter Martyr , Zanchy , Aretius , Jac. Capellus , Hiddiger , Cocceius , Bochartus , &c. amongst the Protestants ; and instar omnium , by Salmasius , Grotius , Vossius , Blundel : In a Word , by the Learn'd of both Persuasions , favourable enough to these Opinions , Cajetan and Calvin only excepted , who hold , that as to Abstinence from Flesh , there was no positive Command or Imposition concerning it ; but that the Use of Herbs and Fruit was recommended rather for Temperance sake , and the Prolongation of Life : Upon which score I am inclin'd to believe that the ancient 〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉 , and other devout and contemplative Sects , distinguish'd themselves ; whose Course of Life we have at large describ'd in * * Philo de Vit. Contemp. Joseph . Antiq. Lib. 13. Cap. 9. Philo ( who liv'd and taught much in Gardens ) with others of the Abstemious Christians ; among whom , Clemens brings in St. Mark the Evangelist himself , James our Lord's Brother , St. John , &c. and with several of the devout Sex , the famous Diaconesse Olympias , mention'd by Palladius ( not to name the rest ) who abstaining from Flesh , betook themselves to Herbs and Sallets upon the Account of Temperance , and the Vertues accompanying it ; and concerning which the incomparable Grotius declares ingenuously his Opinion to be far from censuring , not only those who forbear the eating Flesh and Blood , Experimenti Causâ , and for Discipline sake ; but such as forbear ex Opinione , and ( because it has been the ancient Custom ) provided they blam'd none who freely us'd their Liberty ; and I think he 's in the right .

But leaving this Controversie ( nè nimium extra oleas ) it has often been objected , that Fruit , and Plants , and all other things , may since the Beginning , and as the World grows older , have universally become Effoete , impair'd and divested of those Nutritious and transcendent Vertues they were at first endow'd withal : But as this is begging the Question , and to which we have already spoken ; so all are not agreed that there is any , the least * * Hackwell . Apolog. Decay in Nature , where equal Industry and Skill's apply'd . 'T is true indeed , that the Ordo Foliatorum , Feuillantines ( a late Order of Ascetic Nuns ) amongst other Mortifications , made Trial upon the Leaves of Plants alone , to which they would needs confine themselves ; but were not able to go through that thin and meagre Diet : But then it would be enquir'd whether they had not first , and from their very Childhood , been fed and brought up with Flesh , and better Sustenance till they enter'd the Cloyster ; and what the Vegetables and the Preparation of them were allow'd by their Institution ? Wherefore this is nothing to our Modern Use of Sallets , or its Disparagement . In the mean time , that we still think it not only possible , but likely , and with no great Art or Charge ( taking Roots and Fruit into the Basket ) substantially to maintain Mens Lives in Health and Vigour : For to this , and less than this , we have the Suffrage of the great ‖ ‖ Hippoc. de vetere Medicina , Cap. 6 , 7. Hippocrates himself ; who thinks , ab initio etiam hominum ( as well as other Animals ) tali victu usum esse , and needed no other Food . Nor is it an ●nconsiderable Speculation , That since all Flesh is Grass ( not in a Figurative , but Natural and Real Sense ) Man himself , who lives on Flesh , and I think upon no● Earthly Animal whatsoever , but such as feed on Grass , is nourish'd with them still ; and so becoming an Incarnate Herb , and Innocent Canibal , may truly be said to devour himself .

We have said nothing of the Lotophagi , and such as ( like St. John the Baptist , and other religious Ascetics ) were Feeders on the Summities and Tops of Plants : But as divers of those , and others we have mention'd , were much in times of Streights , Persecutions , and other Circumstances , which did not in the least make it a Pretence , exempting them from Labour , and other Humane Offices , by ensnaring Obligations and Vows ( never to be useful to the Publick , in whatever Exigency ) so I cannot but take Notice of what a Learned ‖ ‖ L. C. Annot. in Coloss. c. 2. Critic speaking of Mens neglecting plain and Essential Duties , under Colour of exercising themselves in a more sublime Course of Piety , and being Righteous above what is commanded ( as those who seclude themselves in Monasteries ) that they manifestly discover excessive Pride , Hatred of their Neighbour , Impatience of Injuries ; to which add , Melancholy Plots and Machinations ; and that he must be either stupid , or infected with the same Vice himself , who admires this 〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉 , or thinks they were for that Cause the more pleasing to God . This being so , what may we then think of such Armies of Hermits , Monks and Fryars , who pretending to justifie a mistaken Zeal and meritorious Abstinence ; not only by a peculiar Diet and Distinction of Meats ( which God without Distinction has made the moderate Use of common and * * 2 Tim. iv . 3. indifferent amongst Christians ) but by other sordid Usages , and unnecessary Hardships , wilfully prejudice their Health and Constitution ? and through a singular manner of living , dark and Saturnine ; whilst they would seem to abdicate and forsake the World ( in Imitation , as they pretend , of the Ancient Eremites ) take care to settle , and build their warm and stately Nests in the most Populous Cities , and Places of Resort ; ambitious doubtless of the Peoples Veneration and Opinion of an extraordinary Sanctity ; and therefore flying the Desarts , where there is indeed no use of them ; and flocking to the Towns and Cities where there is less , indeed none at all ; and therefore no Marvel that the Emperour Valentinian banished them the Cities , and Constantine Copronymus finding them seditious , oblig'd them to marry , to leave their Cells , and live as did others . For of these , some there are who seldom speak , and therefore edifie none ; sleep little , and lie hard , are clad nastily , and eat meanly ( and oftentimes that which is unwholsom ) and therefore benefit none : Not because they might not , both for their own , and the Good of others , and the Publick ; but because they will not ; Custom , and a prodigious † † This , with their prodigious Ignorance . See M●b . des Etudes Monast . Part. 2. c. 17. Sloth accompanying it ; which renders it so far from Penance , and the Mortification pretended , that they know not how to live , or spend their Time otherwise . This , as I have often consider'd , so was I glad to find it justly perstring'd , and taken notice of by a * * Dr. Lister's Journey to Paris . See L' Apocalyps de Meliton , ou Revelation des Mysteres Cenobitiques . Learned Person , amongst others of his useful Remarks abroad .

These , says he , willingly renouncing the innocent Comforts of Life , plainly shew it to proceed more from a chagrin and morose Humour , than from any true and serious Principle of sound Religion ; which teaches Men to be useful in their Generations , sociable and communicative , unaffected , and by no means singular and fantastic in Garb and Habit , as are these ( forsooth ) Fathers ( as they affect to be call'd ) spending their Days in idle and fruitless Forms , and tedious Repetitions ; and thereby thinking to merit the Reward of those Ancient , and truly pious Solitaries , who , God knows , were driven from their Countries and Repose , by the Incursions of barbarous Nations ( whilst these have no such Cause ) and compell'd to Austerities , not of their own chusing and making , but the publick Calamity ; and to labour with their Hands for their own , and others necessary Support , as well as with their Prayers and holy Lives , Examples to all the World : And some of these indeed ( besides the Solitaries of the Thebaid , who wrought for abundance of poor Christians , sick , and in Captivity ) I might bring in , as such who deserv'd to have their Names preserv'd ; not for their rigorous Fare , and uncouth Disguises ; but for teaching that the Grace of Temperance and other Vertues , consisted in a cheerful , innocent , and profitable Conversation .

And now to recapitulate what other Prerogatives the Hortulan Provision has been celebrated for , besides its Antiquity , Health and Longaevity of the Antediluvians ; that Temperance , Frugality , Leisure , Ease , and innumerable other Vertues and Advantages , which accompany it , are no less attributable to it . Let us hear our excellent Botanist * * Plantarum usus latissimè patet , & in omni vitae parte occurrit , sine illis lautè , sine illis commodè non vivitur , ac nec vivitur omninò . Quaecunque ad victu necessaria sunt , quaecunque ad delicias faciunt , è locupletissimo suo penu abundè subministrant : Quantò ex eis mensa innocentior , mundior , salubrior , quam ex animalium caede & Laniena ! Homo certè naturâ animal carnivorum non est ; nullis ad praedam & rapinam armis instructum ; non dentibus exertis & serratis , non unguibus aduncis : Manus ad fructos colligendos , dentes ad mandendos comparati ; nec legimus se ante diluvium carnes ad esum concessas , &c. Raii Hist. Plant. Lib. 1. cap. 24. Mr. Ray.

The Use of Plants ( says he ) is all our Life long of that universal Importance and Concern , that we can neither live nor subsist in any Plenty with Decency , or Conveniency or be said to live indeed at all without them : whatsoever Food is necessary to sustain us , whatsoever contributes to delight and refresh us , are supply'd and brought forth out of that plentiful and abundant store : and ah , how much more innocent , sweet and healthful , is a Table cover'd with these , than with all the reeking Flesh of butcher'd and slaughter'd Animals ! Certainly Man by Nature was never made to be a Carnivorous Creature ; nor is he arm'd at all for Prey and Rapin , with gag'd and pointed Teeth and crooked Claws , sharpned to rend and tear : But with gentle Hands to gather Fruit and Vegetables , and with Teeth to chew and eat them : Nor do we so much as read the Use of Flesh for Food , was at all permitted him , till after the Universal Deluge , &c.

To this might we add that transporting Consideration , becoming both our Veneration and Admiration of the infinitely wise and glorious Author of Nature , who has given to Plants such astonishing Properties ; such fiery Heat in some to warm and cherish , such Coolness in others to temper and refresh , such pinguid Juice to nourish and feed the Body , such quickening Acids to compel the Appetite , and grateful Vehicles to court the Obedience of the Palate , such Vigour to renew and support our natural Strength , such ravishing Flavour and Perfumes to recreate and delight us : In short , such spirituous and active Force to animate and revive every Faculty and Part , to all the kinds of Human , and , I had almost said Heavenly Capacity too . What shall we add more ? Our Gardens present us with them all ; and whilst the Shambles are cover'd with Gore and Stench , our Sallets scape the Insults of the Summer Fly , purifies and warms the Blood against Winter Rage : Nor wants there Variety in more abundance , than any of the former Ages could shew .

Survey we their Bills of Fare , and Numbers of Courses serv'd up by Athenaeus , drest with all the Garnish of Nicander and other Grecian Wits : What has the Roman Grand Sallet worth the naming ? Parat Convivium , The Guests are nam'd indeed , and we are told , — * * Mart. lib. x. Epig. 44. Varias , quas habet hortus opes ? How richly the Garden 's stor'd ! In quibus est Luctuca sedens , & tonsile porrum , Nec deest ructatrix Mentha , nec herba salax , &c. A Goodly Sallet !

Lettuce , Leeks , Mint , Rocket , Colewort-Tops , with Oyl and Eggs , and such an Hotch-Pot following ( as the Cook in Plautus would deservedly laugh at ) But how infinitely out-done in this Age of ours , by the Variety of so many rare Edules unknown to the Ancients , that there 's no room for the Comparison . And , for Magnificence , let the Sallet drest by the Lady for an Entertainment made by Jacobus Catsius ( describ'd by the Poet * * Barl. Eleg. lib. 3. Barloeus ) shew ; not at all yet out-doing what we every Day almost find at our Lord Mayor's Table , and other great Persons , Lovers of the Gardens ; that sort of elegant Cookery being capable of such wonderful Variety , tho' not altogether wanting of old , if that be true which is related to us of ‖ ‖ Athen. Deip. l. 1. Nicomedes a certain King of Bithynia , whose Cook made him a Pilchard ( a Fish he exceedingly long'd for ) of a well dissembl'd Turnip , carv'd in its Shape , and drest with Oyl , Salt , and Pepper , that so deceiv'd , and yet pleased the Prince , that he commended it for the best Fish he had ever eaten . Nor does all this exceed what every industrious Gardiner may innocently enjoy , as well as the greatest Potentate on Earth .

Vitellius his Table , to which every Day All Courtiers did a constant Tribute pay , Could nothing more delicious afford Than Nature's Liberality . Help'd with a little Art and Industry , Allows the meanest Gard'ners Board , The wanton Taste no Fish or Fowl can chuse , For which the Grape or Melon she would lose . Tho' all th' Inhabitants of Sea and Air. Be listed in the Glutton's Bill of Fare ; Yet still the Sallet , and the Fruit we see Plac'd the third Story high in all her Luxury .

So the Sweet † † Cowley , Garden . Stanz. 6. Poet , whom I can never part with for his Love to this delicious Toil , and the Honour he has done me .

Verily , the infinite Plenty and Abundance , with which the benign and bountiful Author of Nature has stor'd the whole Terrestrial World , more with Plants and Vegetables than with any other Provision whatsoever ; and the Variety not only equal , but by far exceeding the Pleasure and Delight of Taste ( above all the Art of the Kitchen , than ever * * Hence in Macrobius Sat. lib. vii . c. 5. we find Eupolis the Comedian in his Aeges , bringing in Goats boasting the Variety of their Food , 〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉〈◊〉 , &c. After which follows a Banquet of innumerable sorts . Apicius knew ) seems loudly to call , and kindly invite all her living Inhabitants ( none excepted ) who are of gentle Nature , and most useful , to the same Hospitable and Common-Board , which first she furnish'd with Plants and Fruit , as to their natural and genuine Pasture ; nay , and of the most wild , and savage too ab origine : As in Paradise , where , as the Evangelical † † Esa. lxv . 25. Prophet adumbrating the future Glory of the Catholick Church , ( of which that happy Garden was the Antitype ) the Wolf and the Lamb , the angry and furious Lion , should eat Grass and Herbs together with the Ox. But after all , latet anguis in herba , there 's a Snake in the Grass ; Luxury , and Excess in our most innocent Fruitions . There was a time indeed when the Garden furnish'd Entertainments for the most Renown'd Heroes , virtuous and excellent Persons ; till the Blood-thirsty and Ambitious , over-running the Nations , and by Murders and Rapine rifl'd the World , to transplant its Luxury to its new Mistriss , Rome . Those whom heretofore * * Bina tunc jugera populo Romano satis erat , nullíque majorem modum attribuit , quo servos paulo ante principis Neronis , contemptis hujus spatii Viridariis , piscinas juvat habere majores , gratúmque , si non aliquem & culinas . Plin. Hist. Nat. lib. xviii . c. 2. two Acres of Land would have satisfied , and plentifully maintain'd ; had afterwards their very Kitchens almost as large as their first Territories : Nor was that enough : Entire * * Interea gustus elementa per omnia quaerunt . Juv. Sat. 4. Forests and Parks , Warrens and Fish-Ponds , and ample Lakes to furnish their Tables , so as Men could not live by one another without Oppression : Nay , and to shew how the best , and most innocent things may be perverted ; they chang'd those frugal and inemptas Dapes of their Ancestors , to that Height and Profusion ; that we read of † † Cicero . Epist. Lib. 7. Ep. 26. Complaining of a costly Sallet , that had almost cost him his Life . Edicts and Sumptuary Laws , enacted to restrain even the Pride and Excess of Sallets . But so it was not when the Pease-Field spread a Table for the Conquerors of the World , and their Grounds were cultivated Vomere laureato , & triumphali aratore : The greatest Princes took the Spade and the Plough-Staff in the same Hand they held the Sceptre ; and the Noblest † † Valeriana , That of Lectucini , Achilleia , Lysimachia . Fabius , Cicero , Lentulus , Piso , &c. à Fabis , Cicere , Lente , Pisis bene serendis dicti , Plin. Families thought it no Dishonour , to derive their Names from Plants and Sallet-Herbs : They arriv'd , I say to that Pitch of ingrossing all that was but green , and could be vary'd by the Cook ( Heu quam prodiga ventris ! ) that , as Pliny tells us ( non sine pudore , not without blushing ) a poor Man could hardly find a Thistle to dress for his Supper ; or what his hungry * * Mirum esset non licere pecori Carduis vesci , non licet plebei , &c. And in another Place , Quoniam portenta quoque terrarum in ganeam vertimus , etiam quae refugeant quadrupedes consciae , Plin. Hist. Nat. l. xix . c. 8. Ass would not touch , for fear of pricking his Lips .

Verily the Luxury of the East ruin'd the greatest Monarchies ; first , the Persian , then the Grecian , and afterwards Rome her self : By what Steps , see elegantly describ'd in Old ‖ ‖ Gra. Falisc . Cyneget . Was . See concerning this Excess Macr. Sat. l. 2. c. 9. & sequ . Gratius the Faliscian , deploring his own Age compar'd with the former : O quantum , & quoties decoris frustrata paterni ! At qualis nostris , quàm simplex mensa Camillis ! Qui tibi cultus erat post tot , serrane , triumphos ? Ergo illi ex habitu , virtutisque indole priscae , Imposuere orbi Romam caput : — Neighb'ring Excesses being made thine own , How art thou fall'n from thine old Renown ! But our Camilli did but plainly fare , No Port did oft triumphant Serran bear : Therefore such Hardship , and their Heart so great Gave Rome to be the World 's Imperial Seat .

But as these were the Sensual and Voluptuous , who abus'd their Plenty , spent their Fortunes and shortned their Lives by their Debauches ; so never did they taste the Delicaces , and true Satisfaction of a sober Repast , and the infinite Conveniences of what well-stor'd Garden affords ; so elegantly describ'd by the * * Horti maximè placebant , quia non egerent igni , parceréntque ligno , expedita res , & parata semper , unde Acetaria appellantur , facilia concoqui , nec oneratura sensum cibo , & quae minimè accenderent desiderium panis . Plin. Hist. Nat. Lib. xix . c. 4. And of this exceeding Frugality of the Romans , till after the Mithridatic War , see Athenaeus Deip. Lib. 6. cap. 21. Naturalist , as costing neither Fuel nor Fire to boil , Pains or time to gather and prepare , Res expedita & parata semper : All was so near at hand , readily drest , and of so easie Digestion ; as neither to offend the Brain , or dull the Senses ; and in the greatest Dearth of Corn , a little Bread suffic'd . In all Events , ‖ ‖ Horat. Serm. Sat. 1. Panis ematur , Olus , Vini Sextarius adde Queis humana sibi doleat natura negatis . Bread , Wine , and wholsome Sallets you may buy , What Nature adds besides is Luxury .

They could then make an honest Meal , and dine upon a Sallet , without so much as a Grain of Exotic Spice ; And the Potagere was in such Reputation , that she who neglected her Kitchen-Garden ( for that was still the Good-Woman's Province ) was never reputed a tolerable Huswife : Si vespertinus subitò te oppresserit hospes , she was never surpriz'd , had all ( as we said ) at hand , and could in a Trice set forth an handsome Sallet : And if this was Happiness , Convictus facilis sine arte mensa ( as the Poet reckons ) it was here in Perfection . In a Word , so universal was the Sallet , that the * * Nequam esse in domo matrem familias ( etenim haec cura Foeminae dicebatur ) ubi indiligens esset hortus . Un-bloody Shambles ( as Pliny calls them ) yielded the † † Alterum succidium . Cic. in . Catone . Tiberias had a Tribute of Skirts paid him . Roman State a more considerable Custom ( when there was little more than honest Cabbage and Worts ) than almost any thing besides brought to Market .

They spent not then so much precious time as afterwards they did , gorging themselves with Flesh and Fish , so as hardly able to rise , without reeking and reeling from Table .

* * Hor. Sat. l. 2. Vix prae vino sustinet palpebras , eunti in consilium , &c. See the Oration of C. Titius de Leg. Fan. Mac. Sat. l. 2. c. 12. — Vides ut pallidus omnis Coena desurgat dubia ? quin corpus onustum Hesternis vitiis , animum quoque praegravat unà , Atque affigit humo divinoe particulam aurae . See but how pale they look , how wretchedly , With Yesterday's Surcharge disturb'd they be ! Nor Body only suff'ring , but the Mind , That nobler Part , dull'd and depress'd we find .

Drowsie and unapt for Business , and other nobler Parts of Life .

Time was before Men in those golden Days : Their Spirits were brisk and lively .

— Vbi dicto citius curata sopori Membra dedit , Vegetus praescripta ad munera surgit . With shorter , but much sweeter Sleep content , Vigorous and fresh , about their Business went .

And Men had their Wits about them ; their Appetites were natural , their Sleep molli sub arbore , sound , sweet and kindly : That excellent Emperour Tacitus being us'd to say of Lettuce , that he did somnum se mercari when he eat of them , and call'd it a sumptuous Feast , with a Sallet and a single Pullet , which was usually all the Flesh-Meat that sober Prince eat of ; whilst Maximinus ( a profess'd Enemy to Sallet ) is reported to have scarce been satisfied , with sixty Pounds of Flesh , and Drink proportionable .

There was then also far less expensive Grandure , but far more true State ; when Consuls , great Statesmen ( and such as atchiev'd the most renown'd Actions ) sup'd in their Gardens ; not under costly , gilded , and inlaid Roofs , but the spreading Platan ; and drank of the Chrystal Brook , and by Temperance , and healthy Frugality , maintain'd the Glory of Sallets , Ah , quanto innocentiore victu ! with what Content and Satisfaction ! Nor , as we said , wanted there Variety ; for so in the most blissful Place , and innocent State of Nature , See how the first Empress of the World Regal's her Celestial Guest : * * Milton 's Paradise , l. v. ver. 228. With sav'ry Fruit of Taste to please True Appetite , — and brings Whatever Earth's all-bearing Mother yields — Fruit of all kinds , in Coat Rough , or smooth-Rind , or bearded Husk , or Shell . Heaps with unsparing Hand : For Drink the Grape She crushes , inoffensive Moust , and Mea●hes From many a Berry , and from sweet Kernel prest , She temper'd dulcid Creams . — Then for the Board .

— Rais'd of a grassy Turf The Table was , and Mossy Seats had round ; And on the ample Square from Side to Side , All Autumn pil'd : Ah Innocence , Deserving Paradise !

Thus , the Hortulan Provision of the † † At victus illa aetas cui fecimus aurea nomen Fructibus arboreis , & quas humus educat herbis Fortunata fuit . — Met. xv . Golden Age fitted all Places , Times and Persons ; and when Man is restor'd to that State again , it will be as it was in the Beginning .

But now after all ( and for Close of all ) Let none yet imagine , that whilst we justifie our present Subject through all the Topics of Panegyric , we would in Favour of the Sallet , drest with all its Pomp and Advantage turn Mankind to Grass again ; which were ungratefully to neglect the Bounty of Heaven , as well as his Health and Comfort : But by these Noble Instances and Examples , to reproach the Luxury of the present Age ; and by shewing the infinite Blessing and Effects of Temperance , and the Vertues accompanying it ; with how little Nature , and a * * Bene moratus venter . Civil Appetite may be happy , contented with moderate things , and within a little Compass , reserving the rest , to the nobler Parts of Life . And thus of old , Hoc erat in votis , modus agri non ita magnus , &c. He that was possess'd of a little Spot of Ground , and well-cultivated Garden , with other moderate Circumstances , had ‖ ‖ TAB. II. Haeredium . All that a modest Man could well desire . Then , * * Foelix , quem miserâ procul ambitione remotum , Parvus ager placidè , parvus & hortus , alit . Praebet ager quicquid frugi natura requirit , Hortus habet quicquid luxuriosa petit , Caetera sollicitae speciosa incommoda vitae Permittit stultis quaerere , habere malis . Cowley , Pl. lib. iv . Happy the Man , who from Ambition freed , A little Garden , little Field does feed . The Field gives frugal Nature what 's requir'd ; The Garden what 's luxuriously desir'd : The specious Evils of an anxious Life , He leaves to Fools to be their endless Strife . O Fortunatos nimium bona si sua norint Horticulos !

FINIS .

APPENDIX .

THO' it was far from our first Intention to charge this small Volume and Discourse concerning Crude Sallets , with any of the following Receits : Yet having since received them from an Experienc'd Housewife ; and that they may possibly be useful to correct , preserve and improve our Acetaria , we have allow'd them Place as an Appendant Variety upon Occasion : Nor account we it the least Dishonour to our former Treatise , that we kindly entertain'd them ; since ( besides divers Learned Physicians , and such as have ex professo written de Re Cibaria ) we have the Examples of many other Plin. Athenaeus , Macrobius , Bacon , Boyle , Digby , &c. Noble and Illustrious Persons , both among the Ancient and Modern .

Artichoak . Clear it of the Leaves and cut the Bottoms in pretty thin Slices or Quarters ; then fry them in fresh Butter with some Parsley , till it is crisp , and the Slices tender ; and so dish them with other fresh melted Butter .

How a Poiverade is made , and the Bottoms preserv'd all the Winter , See Acetaria . p. 8 , 9.

Ashen-keys . See Pickle . Asparagus . See Pickle . Beets . See Pickle . Broom . See Pickle . Buds . See Pickle . Capers . See Pickle . Carrot . See Pudding . Champignon . See Mushroom .

2. Chessnut . Roasted under the Embers , or dry fryed , till they shell , and quit their Husks , may be slit ; the Juice of Orange squeezed on a Lump of hard Sugar dissolv'd ; to which add some Claret Wine .

Collyflower . See Pickle . Cucumber . See Pickle . Elder-flowers . See Pickle . Flowers . See Pickle . Gilly-flowers . See Pickle . Herbs . See Pudding and Tart. Limon . See Pickle .

3. Mushroom . Chuse the small , firm and white Buttons , growing upon sweet Pasture Grounds , neither under , or about any Trees : strip off the upper Skin , and pare away all the black spungy Bottom part ; then slice them in quarters , and cast them in Water a while to cleanse : Then Boil them in fresh Water , and a little sweet Butter ; ( some boil them a quarter of an hour first ) and then taking them out , dry them in a Cloth , pressing out the Water , and whilst hot , add the Butter ; and then boiling a full Hour ( to exhaust the Malignity ) shift them in another clean Water , with Butter , as before till they become sufficiently tender . Then being taken out , pour upon them as much strong Mutton ( or other ) Broth as will cover them , with six Spoonfuls of White-Wine , twelve Cloves , as many Pepper-Corns , four small young Onions , half an Handful of Persly bound up with two or three Spriggs of Thyme , an Anchovy , Oysters raw , or pickl'd ; a little Salt , sweet Butter ; and so let them stew . See Acetar . p. 39.

Another .

Prepar'd , and cleans'd as above , and cast into Fountain-Water , to preserve them from growing black ; Boil them in fresh Water and Salt ; and whilst on the Fire , cast in the Mushrooms , letting them boil till they become tender : Then stew them leisurely between two Dishes ( the Water being drained from them ) in a third Part of White-Wine and Butter , a small Bundle of sweet Herbs at discretion . To these add Broth as before , with Cloves , Mace , Nutmeg , Anchovies ( one is sufficient ) Oysters , &c. a small Onion , with the green Stem chopt small ; and lastly , some Mutton-Gravy , rubbing the Dish gently with a Clove of Garlick , or some Rocombo Seeds in its stead . Some beat the Yolk of a fresh Egg with Vinegar , and Butter , and a little Pepper .

In France some ( more compendiously being peel'd and prepared ) cast them into a Pipkin , where , with the Sweet Herbs , Spice , and an Onion they stew them in their own Juice , without any other Water or Liquor at all ; and then taking out the Herbs and Onion , thicken it with a little Butter , and so eat them .

In Poiverade .

The large Mushrooms well cleansed , &c. being cut into quarters and strewed with Pepper and Salt , are broil'd on the Grid-iron , and eaten with fresh Butter .

In Powder .

Being fresh gathered , cleans'd , &c. and cut in Pieces , stew them in Water and Salt ; and being taken forth , dry them with a Cloth : Then putting them into an Earth-Glazed Pot , set them into the Oven after the Bread is drawn : Repeat this till they are perfectly dry ; and reserve them in Papers to crumble into what Sawce you please . For the rest , see Pickle .

4. Mustard . Procure the best and weightiest Seed : cast it into Water two or three times , till no more of the Husk arise : Then taking out the sound ( which will sink to the Bottom ) rub it very dry in warm course Cloths , shewing it also a little to the Fire in a Dish or Pan. Then stamp it as small as to pass through a fine Tiffany Sieve : Then slice some Horse-Raddish , and lay it to soak in strong Vinegar , with a small Lump of hard Sugar ( which some leave out ) to temper the Flower with , being drained from the Radish , and so pot it all in a Glaz'd Mug , with an Onion , and keep it well stop'd with a Cork upon a Bladder , which is the more cleanly : But this Receit is improv'd , if instead of Vinegar , Water only , or the Broth of powder'd Beef be made use of . And to some of this Mustard adding Verjuice , Sugar , Claret-Wine , and Juice of Limon , you have an excellent Sauce to any sort of Flesh or Fish .

Note , that a Pint of good Seed is enough to make at one time , and to keep fresh a competent while . What part of it does not pass the Sarse , may be beaten again ; and you may reserve the Flower in a well closed Glass , and make fresh Mustard when you please . See Acetaria , p. 59. 103.

Nasturtium . Vide Pickle .

Orange . See Limon in Pickle .

5. Parsnip . Take the large Roots , boil them , and strip the Skin : Then slit them long-ways into pretty thin Slices ; Flower and fry them in fresh Butter till they look brown . The Sauce is other sweet Butter melted . Some strow Sugar and Cinamon upon them . Thus you may accommodate other Roots .

There is made a Mash or Pomate of this Root , being boiled very tender with a little fresh Cream ; and being healed again , put to it some Butter , a little Sugar and Juice of Limon ; dish it upon Sippets ; sometimes a few Corinths are added .

Peny-royal . See Pudding .

Pickles .

Pickl'd

6. Artichoaks . See Acetaria , p. 9.

7. Ashen-keys . Gather them young , and boil them in three or four Waters to extract the Bitterness ; and when they feel tender , prepare a Syrup of sharp White-Wine Vinegar , Sugar , and a little Water . Then boil them on a very quick Fire , and they will become of a green Colour , ●it to be potted so soon as cold .

8. Asparagus . Break off the hard Ends , and put them in White-Wine Vinegar and Salt , well covered with it ; and so let them remain for six Weeks : Then taking them out , boil the Liquour or Pickle , and scum it carefully . If need be , renew the Vinegar and Salt ; and when 't is cold , pot them up again . Thus may one keep them the whole Year .

9. Beans . Take such as are fresh young , and approaching their full Growth . Put them into a strong Brine of White-Wine Vinegar and Salt able to bear an Egg. Cover them very close , and so will they be preserved twelve Months : But a Month before you use them , take out what Quantity you think sufficient for your spending a quarter of a Year ( for so long the second Pickle will keep them sound ) and boil them in a Skillet of fresh Water , till they begin to look green , as they soon will do . Then placing them one by one , ( to drain upon a clean course Napkin ) range them Row by Row in a Jarr , and cover them with Vinegar , and what Spice you please ; some Weight being laid upon them to keep them under the Pickle . Thus you may preserve French-Beans , Harico's , &c. the whole Year about .

10. Broom-Buds and Pods . Make a strong Pickle , as above ; stir it very well , till the Salt be quite dissolved , clearing off the Dregs and Scum . The next Day pour it from the Bottom ; and having rubbed the Buds dry pot them up in a Pickle-Glass , which should be frequently shaken , till they sink under it , and keep it well stopt and covered .

Thus may you pickle any other Buds . Or as follows :

11. Of Elder . Take the largest Buds , and boil them in a Skillet with Salt and Water , sufficient only to scald them ; and so ( being taken off the Fire ) let them remain covered till Green ; and then pot them with Vinegar and Salt , which has had one Boil up to cleanse it .

12. Collyflowers . Boil them till they fall in Pieces : Then with some of the Stalk , and worst of the Flower , boil it in a part of the Liquor till pretty strong : Then being taken off , strain it ; and when settled , clear it from the Bottom . Then with Dill , Gross Pepper , a pretty Quantity of Salt , when cold , add as much Vinegar as will make it sharp , and pour all upon the Collyflower ; and so as to keep them from touching one another ; which is prevented by putting Paper close to them .

Cornelians are pickled like Olives .

13. Cowslips . Pickt very clean ; to each Pound of Flowers allow about one Pound of Loaf-Sugar , and one Pint of White-Wine Vinegar , which boil to a Syrup , and cover it scalding-hot . Thus you may pickle Clove-gillyflowers , Elder , and other Flowers , which being eaten alone , make a very agreeable Salletine .

14. Cucumbers . Take the Gorkems , or smaller Cucumbers ; put them into Rape-Vinegar , and boyl , and cover them so close , as none of the Vapour may issue forth ; and also let them stand till the next day : Then boil them in fresh White-Wine Vinegar , with large Mace , Nutmeg , Ginger , white Pepper , and a little Salt , ( according to discretion ) straining the former Liquor from the Cucumbers ; and so place them in a Jarr , or wide mouthed Glass , laying a little Dill and Fennel between each Rank ; and covering all with the fresh scalding-hot Pickle , keep all close , and repeat it daily , till you find them sufficiently green .

In the same sort Cucumbers of the largest size , being peel'd and cut into thin Slices , are very delicate .

Another .

Wiping them clean , put them in a very strong Brine of Water and Salt , to soak two or three Hours or longer , if you see Cause : Then range them in the Jarr or Barrellet with Herbs and Spice as usual ; and cover them with hot Liquor made of two parts Beer-Vinegar , and one of White-Wine Vinegar : Let all be very well closed . A Fortnight after scald the Pickle again , and repeat it , as above : Thus they will keep longer , and from being so soon sharp , eat crimp and well tasted , tho' not altogether so green . You may add a Walnut-Leaf , Hysop , Costmary , &c. and as some do , strow on them a little Powder of Roch-Allom , which makes them firm and eatable within a Month or six Weeks after .

Mango of Cucumbers .

Take the biggest Cucumbers ( and most of the Mango size ) that look green : Open them on the Top or Side ; and scooping out the Seeds , supply their Place with a small Clove of Garlick , or some Roccombo Seeds . Then put them into an Earthen Glazed Jarr , or wide-mouth'd Glass , with as much White Wine Vinegar as will cover them . Boil them in the Vinegar with Pepper , Cloves , Mace , &c. and when off the Fire , as much Salt as will make a gentle Brine ; and so pour all boyling-hot on the Cucumbers , covering them close till the next Day . Then put them with a little Dill , and Pickle into a large Skillet ; and giving them a Boyl or two , return them into the Vessel again : And when all is cold , add a good Spoonful of the best Mustard , keeping it from the Air , and so have you an excellent Mango . When you have occasion to take any out , make use of a Spoon , and not your Fingers .

Elder . See Buds .

Flowers . See Cowslips , and for other Flowers .

15. Limon . Take Slices of the thick Rind Limon , Boil and shift them in several Waters , till they are pretty tender : Then drain and wipe them dry with a clean Cloth ; and make a Pickle with a little White-Wine Vinegar , one part to two of fair Water , and a little Sugar , carefully scum'd . When all is cold , pour it on the peel'd Rind , and cover it all close in a convenient Glass Jarr . Some make a Syrup of Vinegar , White-Wine and Sugar not too thick , and pour it on hot .

16. Melon . The abortive and after-Fruit of Melons being pickled as Cucumber , make an excellent Sallet .

17. Mushrom . Take a Quart of the best White-Wine Vinegar ; as much of White-Wine , Cloves , Mace , Nutmeg a pretty Quantity , beaten together : Let the Spice boil therein to the Consumption of half ; then taken off , and being cold , pour the Liquour on the Mushroms ; but leave out the boiled Spice , and cast in of the same sort of Spice whole , the Nutmeg only slit in Quarters , with some Limon-Peel , white Pepper ; and if you please a whole raw Onion , which take out again when it begins to perish .

Another .

The Mushroms peel'd , &c. throw them into Water , and then into a Sauce-Pan , with some long Pepper , Cloves , Mace , a quarter'd Nutmeg , with an Onion , Shallot , or Roccombo-Seed , and a little Salt . Let them all boil a quarter of an hour on a very quick Fire : Then take out and cold , with a pretty Quantity of the former Spice , boil them in some White-Wine ; which ( being cold ) cast upon the Mushroms , and fill up the Pot with the best White-Wine , a Bay-Leaf or two , and an Handful of Salt : Then cover them with the Liquour ; and if for long keeping , pour Sallet-Oil over all , tho' they will be preserved a Year without it .

They are sometimes boil'd in Salt and Water , with some Milk , and laying them in the Colender to drain , till cold , and wiped dry , cast them into the Pickle with the White-Wine , Vinegar and Salt , grated Nutmeg , Ginger bruised , Cloves , Mace , white Pepper and Limon-Peel ; pour the Liquor on them cold without boiling .

18. Nasturtium Indicum . Gather the Buds before they open to flower ; lay them in the Shade three or four Hours , and putting them into an Earthen Glazed Vessel , pour good Vinegar on them , and cover it with a Board . Thus leting it stand for eight or ten Days : Then being taken out , and gently press'd , cast them into fresh Vinegar , and let them so remain as long as before . Repeat this a third time , and Barrel them up with Vinegar and a little Salt .

Orange . See Limon .

20. Potato . The small green Fruit ( when about the size of the Wild Cherry ) being pickled , is an agreeable Sallet . But the Root being roasted under the Embers , or otherwise , open'd with a Knife , the Pulp is butter'd in the Skin , of which it will take up a good Quantity , and is seasoned with a little Salt and Pepper . Some eat them with Sugar together in the Skin , which has a pleasant Crimpness . They are also stew'd and bak'd in Pyes , &c.

21. Purselan . Lay the Stalks in an Earthen Pan ; then cover them with Beer-Vinegar and Water , keeping them down with a competent Weight to imbibe , three Days : Being taken out , put them into a Pot with as much White-Wine Vinegar as will cover them again ; and close the Lid with Paste to keep in the Steam : Then set them on the Fire for three or four Hours , often shaking and stirring them : Then open the Cover , and turn and remove those Stalks which lie at the Bottom , to the Top , and boil them as before , till they are all of a Colour . When all is cold , pot them with fresh White-Wine Vinegar , and so you may preserve them the whole Year round .

22. Radish . The Seed-Pods of this Root being pickl'd , are a pretty Sallet .

23. Sampier . Let it be gathered about Michaelmas ( or the Spring ) and put two or three Hours into a Brine of Water and Salt ; then into a clean Tin'd Brass Pot , with three parts of strong White-Wine Vinegar , and one part of Water and Salt , or as much as will cover the Sampier , keeping the Vapour from issuing out , by pasting down the Pot-lid , and so hang it over the Fire for half an Hour only . Being taken off , let it remain cover'd till it be cold ; and then put it up into small Barrels or Jars , with the Liquor , and some fresh Vinegar , Water and Salt ; and thus it will keep very green . If you be near the Sea , that Water will supply the place of Brine . This is the Dover Receit .

24. Walnuts . Gather the Nuts young , before they begin to harden , but not before the Kernel is pretty white : Steep them in as much Water as will more then cover them . Then set them on the Fire , and when the Water boils , and grows black , pour it off , and supply it with fresh , boiling it as before ; and continuing to shift it till it become clear , and the Nuts pretty tender : Then let them be put into clean Spring-Water for two Days , changing it as before , with fresh , two or three times within this space : Then lay them to drain , and dry on a clean course Cloth , and put them up in a Glass Jar , with a few Walnut Leaves , Dill , Cloves , Pepper , whole Mace and Salt ; strowing them under every Layer of Nuts , till the Vessel be three quarters full ; and lastly , replenishing it with the best Vinegar , keep it well covered ; and so they will be fit to spend within three Months .

To make a Mango with them .

The Green Nuts prepared as before , cover the Bottom of the Jar with some Dill , an Handful of Bay-Salt , &c. and then a Bed of Nuts ; and so stratum upon stratum , as above , adding to the Spice some Roccombo-Seeds ; and filling the rest of the Jar with the best White-Wine Vinegar , mingled with the best Mustard ; and so let them remain close covered , during two or three Months time : And thus have you a more agreeable Mango than what is brought us from abroad ; which you may use in any Sauce , and is of it self a rich Condiment .

Thus far Pickles .

25. Potage Maigre . Take four Quarts of Spring-Water , two or three Onions stuck with some Cloves , two or three Slices of Limon-Peel , Salt , whole white Pepper , Mace , a Raze or two of Ginger , tied up in a fine Cloth ( Lawn or Tiffany ) and make all boil for half an Hour ; Then having Spinage , Sorrel , white Beet-Chard , a little Cabbage , a few small Tops of Cives , wash'd and pick'd clean , shred them well , and cast them into the Liquor , with a Pint of blue Pease boil'd soft and strain'd , with a Bunch of sweet Herbs , the Top and Bottom of a French Roll ; and so suffer it to boil during three Hours ; and then dish it with another small French Roll , and Slices about the Dish : Some cut Bread in slices , and frying them brown ( being dried ) put them into the Pottage just as it is going to be eaten .

The same Herbs , clean wash'd , broken and pulled asunder only , being put in a close cover'd Pipkin , without any other Water or Liquor , will stew in their own Juice and Moisture . Some add an whole Onion , which after a while should be taken out , remembring to season it with Salt and Spice , and serve it up with Bread and a Piece of fresh Butter .

26. Pudding of Carrot . Pare off some of the Crust of Manchet-Bread , and grate off half as much of the rest as there is of the Root , which must also be grated : Then take half a Pint of fresh Cream or New Milk , half a Pound of fresh Butter , six new laid Eggs ( taking out three of the Whites ) mash and mingle them well with the Cream and Butter : Then put in the grated Bread and Carrot , with near half a Pound of Sugar , and a little Salt ; some grated Nutmeg and beaten Spice ; and pour all into a convenient Dish or Pan , butter'd , to keep the Ingredients from sticking and burning ; set it in a quick Oven for about an Hour , and so have you a Composition for any Root-Pudding .

27. Penny-royal . The Cream , Eggs , Spice , &c. as above , but not so much Sugar and Salt : Take a pretty Quantity of Peny-royal and Marigold Flower , &c. very well shred , and mingle with the Cream , Eggs , &c. four Spoonfuls of Sack ; half a Pint more of Cream , and almost a Pound of Beef-Suet chopt very small , the Gratings of a Two-penny Loaf , and stirring all well together , put it into a Bag flower'd and tie it fast . It will be boil'd within an Hour : Or may be baked in the Pan like the Carrot-Pudding . The sauce is for both , a little Rose-water , less Vinegar , with Butter beaten together and poured on it sweetned with the Sugar Caster .

Of this Plant discreetly dried , is made a most wholsom and excellent Tea .

28. Of Spinage . Take a sufficient Quantity of Spinach , stamp and strain out the Juice ; put to it grated Manchet , the Yolk of as many Eggs as in the former Composition of the Carrot-Pudding ; some Marrow shred small , Nutmeg , Sugar , some Corinths , ( if you please ) a few Carroways , Rose , or Orange-flower Water ( as you best like ) to make it grateful . Mingle all with a little boiled Cream ; and set the Dish or Pan in the Oven , with a Garnish of Puff-Paste . It will require but very moderate Baking . Thus have you Receits for Herb Puddings .

29. Skirret-Milk Is made by boiling the Roots tender , and the Pulp strained out , put into Cream or new Milk boiled , with three or four Yolks of Eggs , Sugar , large Mace and other Spice , &c. And thus is composed any other Root-Milk . See Acetar . p. 65.

30. Tansie . Take the Gratings or Slices of three Naples-Biscuits , put them into half a Pint of Cream , with twelve fresh Eggs , four of the Whites cast out , strain the rest , and break them with two Spoonfuls of Rose-water , a little Salt and Sugar , half a grated Nutmeg : And when ready for the Pan , put almost a Pint of the Juice of Spinach , Cleaver , Beets , Corn-Sallet , Green Corn , Violet , or Primrose tender Leaves , ( for of any of these you may take your choice ) with a very small Sprig of Tansie , and let it be fried so as to look green in the Dish with a Strew of Sugar , and store of the Juice of Orange : some affect to have it fryed a little brown and crisp .

31. Tart of Herbs . An Herb-Tart is made thus : Boil fresh Cream or Milk , with a little grated Bread or Naples-Biscuit ( which is better ) to thicken it ; a pretty Quantity of Chervile , Spinach , Beete ( or what other Herb you please ) being first par-boil'd and chop'd . Then add Macaron , or Almonds beaten to a Paste , a little sweet Butter , the Yolk of five Eggs , three of the Whites rejected . To these some add Corinths plump'd in Milk , or boil'd therein , Sugar , Spice at Discretion , and stirring it all together over the Fire , bake it in the Tart-Pan .

32. Thistle . Take the long Stalks of the middle Leaf of the Milky-Thistle , about May , when they are young and tender : wash and scrape them , and boil them in Water , with a little Salt , till they are very soft , and so let them lie to drain . They are eaten with fresh Butter melted not too thin , and is a delicate and wholsome Dish . Other Stalks of the same kind may so be treated , as the Bur , being tender and disarmed of its Prickles , &c.

33. Trufles , and other Tubers , and Boleti , are roasted whole in the Embers ; then slic'd and stew'd in strong Broth with Spice , &c. as Mushroms are . Vide Acetar . p. 42.

34. Turnep . Take their Stalks ( when they begin to run up to seed ) as far as they will easily break downwards : Peel and tie them in Bundles . Then boiling them as they do Sparagus , are to be eaten with melted Butter . Lastly ,

35. Minc'd , or Sallet-all-sorts .

Take Almonds blanch'd in cold Water , cut them round and thin , and so leave them in the Water ; Then have pickl'd Cucumbers , Olives , Cornelians , Capers , Berberries , Red-Beet , Buds of Nasturtium , Broom , &c. Purslan-stalk , Sampier , Ash-Keys , Walnuts , Mushrooms ( and almost of all the pickl'd Furniture ) with Raisins of the Sun ston'd , Citron and Orange-Peel , Corinths ( well cleansed and dried ) &c. mince them severally ( except the Corinths ) or all together ; and strew them over with any Candy'd Flowers , and so dispose of them in the same Dish both mixt , and by themselves . To these add roasted Maroons , Pistachios , Pine-Kernels , and of Almonds four times as much as of the rest , with some Rose-water . Here also come in the Pickled Flowers and Vinegar in little China Dishes . And thus have you an Vniversal Winter-Sallet , or an All sort in Compendium , fitted for a City Feast , and distinguished from the Grand-Sallet : which shou'd consist of the Green blanch'd and unpickled , under a stately Pennash of Sellery , adorn'd with Buds and Flowers .

And thus have we presented you a Taste of our English Garden Housewifry in the matter of Sallets : And though some of them may be Vulgar , ( as are most of the best things ; ) Yet she was willing to impart them , to shew the Plenty , Riches and Variety of the Sallet-Garden : And to justifie what has been asserted of the Possibility of living ( not unhapily ) on Herbs and Plants , according to Original and Divine Institution , improved by Time and long Experience . And if we have admitted Mushroms among the rest ( contrary to our Intention , and for Reasons given , Acet . p. 43. ) since many will by no means abandon them , we have endeavoured to preserve them from those pernicious Effects which are attributed to , and really in them : We cannot tell indeed whether they were so treated and accommodated for the most Luxurious of the Caesarean Tables , when that Monarchy was in its highest Strain of Epicurism , and ingross'd this Haugout for their second Course ; whilst this we know , that 't is but what Nature affords all her Vagabonds under every Hedge .

And now , that our Sallets may not want a Glass of generous Wine of the same Growth with the rest of the Garden to recommend it , let us have your Opinion of the following .

Cowslip-Wine . To every Gallon of Water put two Pounds of Sugar ; boil it an Hour , and set it to cool : Then spread a good brown Toast on both Sides with Yeast : But before you make use of it , beat some Syrop of Citron with it , an Ounce and half of Syrup to each Gallon of Liquor : Then put in the Toast whilst hot , to assist its Fermentation , which will cease in two Days ; during which time cast in the Cowslip-Flowers ( a little bruised , but not much stamp'd ) to the Quantity of half a Bushel to ●wo Gallons ( or rather three Pecks ) four Limons slic'd , with the Rinds and all . Lastly , one Pottle of White or Rhenish Wine ; and then after two Days , tun it up in a sweet Cask . Some leave out all the Syrup .

And here , before we conclude , since there is nothing of more constant Vse than good Vinegar ; or that has so near an Affinity to all our Acetaria , we think it not amiss to add the following ( much approved ) Receit .

Vinegar . To every Gallon of Spring Water let there be allowed three Pounds of Malaga-Raisins : Put them in an Earthen Jarr , and place them where thay may have the hottest Sun , from May till Michaelmas : Then pressing them well , Tun the Liquor up in a very strong Iron-Hoop'd Vessel to prevent its bursting . It will appear very thick and muddy when newly press'd , but will refine in the Vessel , and be as clear as Wine . Thus let it remain untouched for three Months , before it be drawn off , and it will prove Excellent Vinegar .

Butter . Butter being likewise so frequent and necessary an Ingredient to divers of the foregoing Appendants : It should be carefully melted , that it turn not to an Oil ; which is prevented by melting it leisurely , with a little fair Water at the Bottom of the Dish or Pan ; and by continual shaking and stirring , kept from boiling or over-heating , which makes it rank .

Other rare and exquisite Liquors and Teas ( Products of our Gardens only ) we might superadd , which we leave to our Lady Housewives , whose Province indeed all this while it is .